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May 1874. 



THE RHINE. 



1 



MONEY-TABLE. 



( Comp. p. XL) 



English Money, \ 


French 
Money 


Prussian Money. 


South Ger- 
man Money. 


L. 


S. 


D. 


Fr. 


Cts. 


Thlr. 


&gi . 


Pf 


Fl. 


Kr. 


1 


— 


— 


25 


— 


6 


20 


— 


11 


40 




17 


1 


21 


55 


5 


21 


- 


10 


— 


— 


16 


— 


20 


— 


5 


10 


— 


9 


20 


— 


15 


— 


18 


57 


5 




— 


8 


45 


— 


12 


— 


15 


— 


4 




— 


7 


— 


— 


10 


— 


12 


50 


3 


10 


— 


5 


50 


— 


8 


6 


10 


77 


2 


25 


— 


5 


— 


— 


6 


— 


7 


50 


2 


— 




3 


30 




4 




5 




1 


10 




2 


20 


| 


3 


- 


3 


75 


1 




— 


1 


45 




2 




2 


50 




20 




1 


10 




1 


8 


2 


15 




17 




1 






1 


7 


2 






16 






57 




1 




1 • 


25 




10 






35 






10 


1 


8 




8 


6 




30 






9ij 2 


1 






8 


_ 




28 






6 




62 




5 






18 


1 




4i| 2 




50 




4 






14 










25 




o 






7 






2 




22 




1 


8 




6 






1 




11 






10 




3 






* 




6 






6 




2 










3 






3 




1 



HOTELS. 



XV 



umbrella may be added. Strong and well-tried boots are essential 
to comfort. Heavy and complicated knapsacks should be avoided ; 
a light pouch or game-bag is far less irksome , and its position may 
be shifted at pleasure. The traveller should of course have a more 
extensive reserve of clothing, especially if he contemplates a visit 
to towns of importance , but even this should be contained in a 
valise, which can be easily wielded , and may be forwarded from 
town to jtown by post. 

The banks of the Rhine abound in charming scenery , which it 
will amply reward the pedestrian to explore; 'and, although the 
sublimity of Switzerland or the luxuriance of Italy cannot be 
expected , many districts replete with both historical and natural 
interest are described in the following pages. The following are 
especially recommended to the notice of travellers : The Seven Mts. 
(R. lbj, the Eifel (R. 24)', the banks of the Moselle (R. 22), the 
Black Forest (R. 46), the Vosges (R. 36 — 38), the environs of 
Schaffhausen and the Falls of the Rhine, and the neighbourhood of 
Constance. A perusal of the Handbook - will enable the traveller to 
discover many attractive spots, both in these and other districts. 

VII. Hotels. 

Little variation occurs in the accommodation and charges of 
first-class hotels in the principal towns and watering-places through- 
out Germany ; but it not unfrequently happens that in old-fashion- 
ed hotels of unassuming exterior the traveller rinds more real com- 
fort and lower charges than in the modern establishments. The 
best houses of both descriptions are therefore enumerated. 

The average charges in the first class hotels are as follows : 
bed 2s. 6d., plain breakfast Is., dinner 2s. 6d., table wine Is., tea 
with meat 2s., attendance Is., light Is., boots extra. 

When the traveller remains for a week or more at an hotel, it is 
advisable to pay , or at least call for his account every two or three 
days, in order that erroneous insertions may be at once detected. 
Verbal reckonings are objectionable. A waiter's mental arithmetic 
is faulty, and the faults are seldom found to be in favour of the 
traveller. A habit too often prevails of presenting the bill at the 
last moment, when mistakes or wilful impositions must be sub- 
mitted to, from want of time to investigate them. Those who pur- 
pose starting early in the morning will do well to ask for their 
bills on the previous evening. 

English travellers often impose considerable trouble by ordering 
things almost unknown in German usage ; and if ignorance of the 
language be combined with want of conformity to the customs, mis- 
understandings and disputes two often ensue. The reader is there- 
fore recommended to acquire if possible such a moderate proficiency 
in the language as to render him intelligible to the servants, and to 



XVI 



GEOLOGY. 



endeavour to adapt his requirements to the habits of the country. 
For this purpose Baedeker's Manual of Conversation will be found 
useful. 

Valets-de-place generally charge i florin or '20 Sgr. for half 
a day. and i — H/a Thlr. for a whole day. 

VIII. Geology of the Rhine. 

For Geologists the maps of the Rhenish Province and Westphalia hy 
von Dechen (Berlin, pub. by Schropp) are of great value. They are ad- 
niirablv executed after the Prussian Ordnance map- . on the scale of 1 : 
80.000/ The series is now complete in 34 sections, price 1 Thlr. each 

From Bale to Bingen the valley of the Rhine is lake-like and 
tilled with comparatively recent depo-it- . but at the latter place it 
suddenly changes its character, and becomes so narrow that room is 
barely left for the high-roads and railways which traverse it. The 
river flows swiftly between almost perpendicular rocks of consider- 
able height, intersected here and there by ravines. Towards Coblenz 
the valley gradually expands, the hills become less abrupt, and the 
rocks disappear. From Coblenz to Andernach a broad basin extends 
on both sides of the stream, which at the latter again enters a rocky 
defile. Near Bonn the river gradually widens, and the -Seven 
Mountains' appear, forming the grand closing scene of the picturesque 
portion of the Rhine. This chain of mountains, in diminished pro- 
portions, accompanies the Rhine on its right bank as far as Cologne. 
Diisseldorf. and nearly to Duisburg. Below the mouth of the Ruhr 
the country is uniformly flat. 

Between Bingen and Bonn the Rhine Valley thus intersects 
an extensive range of high land, consisting of upheaved and 
contorted strata of slatey-g rauu: acke and quartzose-rock, one of the 
oldest formations in which fossils are found. Since the fossili- 
ferous strata have been more accurately classified, the Rhenish 
slate mountains are believed to hold the second place according 
to age among these formations . belonging to what is termed by 
Sir Roderick Murchison the Devonian System, while the oldest for- 
mation of this class is known as the Silurian. 

From Bingen to the confluence of the Sieg below Bonn, all the 
strata intersected by the Rhine belong to the same epoch, as they 
contain the same organic remains. These strata consist of many 
different kinds of clay-slate, the purest of which is the roofing-slate. 
The latter is yielded in great abundance by various quarries on the 
banks of the Rhine, e. g. those of Caub (p. 76). whence it is sent 
in all directions, even as far as Switzerland. The clay-slate forms 
transitions to the species of sandstone termed grauwacke. It is 
generally fine-grained, and in combination with a quartzose ce- 
menting matter passes into quartzose-rock. which owing to its inde- 
structibility often assumes grotesque shapes, and between Bingen 
and St. Goar greatly enhances the beauty of the valley. 

Between the period when the Rhine first began to force 



GEOLOGY. 



XVII 



its passage through the above mentioned mountainous district, 
and that during which the strata forming these highlands were 
deposited at the bottom of what was then an ocean , a vast in- 
terval must have elapsed. The formation of the valley from Bingen 
to the sea is more recent than the deposits of the middle section 
of the Tertiary system, the Meiocene of Sir Charles Lyell, in 
which the clays of Yallendar and the brown coals of the Wester - 
wald, the Seven Mountains, and the neighbourhood of Briihl are 
found. Of equal age with these tertiary formations are the basalts 
of the Rhine (p. 58), which occur in the most grotesque shapes 
near Linz, Kaisersberg, and Ockenfels, on the Erpeler Lei, at the 
scene of the landslip near Unkel (p. 56), at Rolandseck (where the 
railway has laid bare some remarkably situated columns), on the 
Petersberg, Nonnenstromberg, and other peaks of the Seven Mts. 

The Rhine Yalley is then, geologically considered, of very 
recent formation ; and the extinct volcanoes , of which numerous 
cones may be seen from Neuwied, such as the Camillenberg and 
the peaks of the Hummerich at Plaidt and Kruft, are still more 
recent. From the peak at Fornich a stream of lava , whose large 
perpendicular columns may be seen from the river (p. 60), descends 
into the valley. The latter had nearly attained its present 
depth when the eruption which produced this stream of lava 
took place. This is proved by the fact, that all the other lava- 
streams near the Laacher See and in the Eifel have been poured 
into valleys already formed. The pumice-stone, which extends 
over the whole basin of Neuwied, the only place in Germany 
where this volcanic product is found, must have been discharged 
at a still more recent date than most of the lava-streams. 

In the flat parts of the valley, through which the Rhine flows, 
at first narrow, and then gradually widening, are found beds of 
loam and rubble deposited by the stream. Similar masses are 
also met with on the terraces parallel with the river, at a height 
of 400 — 800 ft. above the water. The strata could only have been 
deposited by the agency of flowing water, and must have been 
deposited long before the valley attained its present depth. These 
terraces are distinguishable by their long horizontal ridges from 
the peaks formed by the uncovered slate: they prove that the 
Rhine Yalley has been gradually hollowed out by the action of 
water, though its rugged aspect might give rise to the conjecture 
that it had been the result of some mighty convulsion of nature. 

IX. Wines of the Rhine and Moselle. 

Wine is a subject to which those who visit the land of the grape 
will naturally expect some allusion , and although it is far too 
comprehensive to receive justice in a work like the present, the 
following brief remarks may prove acceptable. 

No error has been more prevalent than that the Rhenish and 
Baedeker s Rhine. 5th Edit. b 



XVIII 



WINE. 



Moselle wines possess an injurious acidity. Liebig on the contrary 
affirms, not only that the exquisite bouquet of the Rhine wines 
is owing to the free acid which they contain, but that some of 
their most salutary properties arise from the tartar present in them. 
To this he attributes the immunity enjoyed by those who use 
the German wines from the uric acid diathesis. Dr. Prout. anions 
many others who have investigated the subject, may be mentioned 
as entertaining the same opinion. Another advantage possessed 
by "Rhenish wines is the total absence of brandy, with which the 
wines of Spain. Portugal, and Sicily are invariably saturated, to 
the utter destruction of their natural flavour, and the injury of 
the health of the consumer. The diseases which attend spirit- 
drinkers . chiefly disorders of the liver . are commonly met with 
amongst consumers of wine to which brandy has been adven- 
titiously added, though such maladies rarely follow even the in- 
temperate use of pure wine. The addition of alcohol to wine is 
unnecessary for its preservation . for Rhine wines often retain 
their excellence for half a century, although they seldom contain 
more than eight or nine per cent of alcohol. The very property 
of keeping is indeed mainly attributable to the fact that the fer- 
mentation is more perfect in Rhenish wines than in those of 
Spain and Portugal, where fermentation is checked by the addition 
of brandy. With the white wines of France the same object is 
effected by -ulphuration. By these processes the richness and 
sweetness of new wine are artificially and unwholesomely retained. 

One must in candour yield the palm to France for her red 
vine-, but no country in the world can compete with the Rhenish 
Provinces in the vast variety and excellence of the white wines 
which they produce. On the banks of the Rhine from Mayence 
to Bonn, a distance of 90 M., the cultivation of the vine may be 
seen in the greatest possible perfection. 

The traveller who finds the table-wine of the hotels unpala- 
table . and whose eye wanders in bewilderment over the -Wein- 
karte*. is recommended to select a bottle of Hock or Moselle at a 
thaler or about two florins a bottle, at which price the most fastidious 
taste ought to be gratified. 

The Rheingau, a district about 15 M. in length, produces the 
finest wines of the Rhine. Here is situated Schloss Johannisberg. 
a most favoured spot, yielding a wine almost without rival. As the 
celebrated vineyards do not exceed 40 acres in area, little of this 
rare product falls to the share of the ordinary public. Moreover the 
first quality is only obtained in the fine-t seasons: the grapes 
are selected with the utmost care from the ripest bunches . not 
a drop of the precious juice is allowed to escape : the yield, under 
the most favourable circumstances, is therefore very limited. 
The various qualities of this wine are sold in the cask at Schloss 
Johannisberg by public auction. It is remarkable for raciness. de- 



WINE. 



XIX 



licacy of flavour, and bouquet, rather than for strength. The other 
wines of the vicinity, distinguished by the name of Johannisberg- 
Klaus, and those yielded by the vineyards of Count Schonborn are 
also highly esteemed. There is also 'Johannisberger' produced from 
the vineyards of the village of that name, but this is inferior to 
many of the other products of the Rheingau. In this neighbour- 
hood are Ritdesheim and Geisenheim, both producing first-class wines. 
Bingen is a favourable district for strong wines ; the hill behind it 
yields Scharlachberger. Below Bingen , on the opposite bank , is 
Assmannshausen, the red wine of which holds a high rank and in 
good vintages vies with Burgundy of the best class, being made from 
the same species of grape, but unfortunately, like the latter, is often 
impaired by travelling. The Marcobrunn vineyard, between Hatten- 
heim and Erbach, produces a white wine of exquisite flavour and 
bouquet. The wine, however, which competes most successfully 
with Johannisberger and trenches closely upon its celebrity is the 
Steinberg er, produced from the carefully cultivated vineyards of the 
Duke of Nassau on the hill at the back of Hattenheim. Hochheim, 
situated on the Main, yields a wine of very superior quality, and 
has given the name of 'Hock' to the produce of the country 
generally. 

The Valley of the Rhine below Bingen produces many pleasant 
and wholesome wines, but inferior to the above. Those of Enge- 
hblL Steeg, Oberwesel, and Boppard may be mentioned among the 
white. The Rheinbleicherte (i. e. 'bleich rothe 1 , or pale red) of 
Steeg, Oberwesel, and Bacharach, and the light red wines of Salzig, 
Camp, Horchheim, the Kreuzb erg ( near Ehrenbreitstein), and Urbar 
are also esteemed. Most of the wines grown below Coblenz are light 
red. Linz produces excellent Rheinbleicherte. 

Rhenish Bavaria (p. 231) produces a vast quantity of white wine, 
generally known as wine of the Haardt, or Palatinate. The best 
qualities are those of Ruppertsberg , Deidesheim, and Forst, after 
which rank those of Ungstein, Durklieim, Wachenheim, and Konigs- 
bach. Good red wines are grown at Qimmeldingen and Callstadt. 
The inferior wines of this district usually have a coarse, earthy 
flavour. 

Rhenish Hessen produces the excellent Scharlachberger above 
mentioned, next to which rank Nierstemer (Glocke), Oppenheimer, 
Laubenheimer, and Bodenheimer, all pleasant w ines, but less delicate 
than those of the Rheingau. Liebfrauenmilch ('Lait de Notre Dame" ) 
is a mediocre wine which owes much of its reputation to the superior 
wines sold under that name , and to the quaintness of the name 
itself. The vineyards where it is grown (p. 228) are incapable of 
producing a tenth part of the wine usually so called. The flat 
vineyards of Ingelheim between Mayence and Bingen yield a good 
light red wine. 

The Nahe wines, like those of the Palatinate, possess considerable 

b* 



XX 



WINE. 



body, but little flavour. That of the Scharlachberg near Bingen is 
sometimes classed as a Nahe wine, and is the best of this group. 

The Valley of the Ahr is the most northern point at which the 
grape is successfully cultivated. Its light and wholesome 'Ahr- 
bleirJierte are chiefly consumed in the neighbourhood of their growth. 
They are strengthening and astringent in their properties, and 
resemble Burgundy of an inferior class. The best are those of 
Walporzlteim, Ahrweiler, and Bodendorf. 

The Moselle wines are chiefly grown amidst rugged and sterile 
looking slate rocks, and owing to the narrowness of the valley and 
want of sun do not so frequently arrive at perfection as those of other 
districts^ They are distinguished by their delicate, aromatic flavour 
and are considered remarkably wholesome, being frequently recom- 
mended to persons of sedentary habits. The best are Brauneberger 
and OJdigsberger. which possess a delicious 'bouquet*, next to which 
may be placed the wines of Zeltingen, Graach, Pisport, and Grilnhaus. 

The Saar wines possess less body than those of the Moselle, but 
surpass them in aroma, and contain a larger proportion of carbonic 
acid gas. Scharzhoflerger is a most excellent wine of this district. 

Markgrafler, the wine of the Duchy of Baden (Affenthal red. 
Klingenberg white), the Xeckar wines, and those of the Bergstrasse 
near Weinhehn are almost entirely consumed in their respective 
districts. The "Franconian wines which grow on the Main near 
Wurzburg are abundant, but generally coarse and earthy in flavour. 
Leisten- Wein and Stein- Wein are. however, really good varieties. 

The wines of the first half of the present century are now either 
entirely consumed, or at most linger in stray bottles in the cellars 
of a few connoisseurs. The vintage of 1846 was celebrated, that of 
1848 tolerable. The crops of the following nine years were almost 
an entire failure, but in 1857 the vineyard proprietors were rewarded 
with one of the most admirable vintages of the century. The years 
1858 and 1859 also yielded excellent wines ; the yield of 186*2 was 
good but limited, that of 1865 copious and of high quality, and that 
of 1868 also very fine. The four subsequent vintages have been 
indifferent. 

Sparkling Wines. The effervescing Rhenish wines were first 
manufactured at Esslingen (in 1826). Wurzburg, and Treves, and 
subsequently at Mayence, Hochheim, and Coblenz. at the last of which 
there are no fewer than nine manufactories. These wines, generally 
known in England as Sparkling Hock and Moselle, are distinguished 
from the French wines by the predominance of the flavour of the 
grape, and when obtained in unexcpptloiiaoie quart?rs, are a light, 
most agreeable, and wholesome beverage. 

The process is precisely the same as that employed in the pre- 
paration of Champagne. The wine ( which at the outset is an ordinary 
still wine, worth Is. or Is. 6cf. per bottle) is bottled after the first 
fermentation is over, and by the addition of a small quantity of 



RHENISH ART, 



XXI 



sugar and exposure to a moderately warm temperature a second 
fermentation and the generation of carbonic acid are produced. 
The bottles are then placed on racks with their corks downwards, 
where they remain a month or more, and are opened several times 
to allow the escape of the sediment. At this stage of the process as 
many as 20 — 25 per cent of the bottles usually burst, while the 
contents of the survivors are much diminished. When the wine 
has thus been thoroughly clarified, the bottles are filled up, a small 
quantity of syrup (cognac and sugar) is added to give the requisite 
sweetness and body, and the final corking then takes place. The 
sparkling wine thus laboriously prepared for the market is worth 
about double the original still wine from which it is manufactured. 
The inferior qualities are generally the most effervescent. 

The traveller is cautioned against dealing with any but the most 
respectable wine-merchants, and must remember that excellence of 
quality is wholly incompatible with lowness of price. As a pleasant 
and wholesome summer beverage the Rhenish wines of the second 
and third class may be imported at a moderate price , the duty 
being now reduced to 2s. 6d. per gallon; but the higher class of 
Rhine- wine, of which Marcobrunner may be taken as a sample, 
cannot be drunk in England under seven or eight shillings a bottle. 

X. Rhenish Art. 

At the beginning of the Christian era, and at a much earlier 
period than the rest of Germany, the W. and S. E. portions of 
the Rhineland received the first germs of civilisation from their 
Roman conquerors. From Bale, near which Colonia Augusta Rau- 
racorum (now Basel Augst) flourished even before Christ, down to 
Holland, a number of wealthy and important towns sprang up, 
such as Argentoratum (Strassburg) , Civitas Aurelia Aquensis 
(Baden-Baden), Bonconia (Oppenheim), Augusta Nemetum (Spires), 
Moguntiacum (Mayence) and Castellum (Castel) opposite to it, 
Mattiacum (Wiesbaden) , Augusta Trevirorum (Treves), Novioma- 
gus (Neumagen), Bauclobrica (Boppard) , Confluentes (Coblenz), 
Sentiacum (Sinzig) , Rlgomagus (Remagen), Castra Bonnensia 
(Bonn), Colonia Agrippinensis (Cologne), Marcodurum (Diiren), 
Aquisgranum (Aix-la-Chapelle) , Buruncum (Worringen) , and 
Durnomagus (Dormagen). The numerous architectural and other 
relics associated with these names bear testimony to the impor- 
tance of the places and the advanced state of their culture. These 
memorials of antiquity are most abundant at Treves and Mayence, 
the former in particular still boasting of several Roman public 
buildings of great interest, such as the Porta Nigra, probably the 
finest ancient structure in Germany, the Amphitheatre, the Thermae, 
the Basilica , and the Igel Column in the vicinity. Mayence, 
on the other hand , is especially remarkable for its imposing 
collection of minor relics, chiefly found within the precincts 



XXII 



RHENISH ART. 



of the town, although its architectural monuments, the Eigelstein. 
or Tower of Drusus , in the citadel, and the remains of the Aque- 
duct, are also well worthy of mention. Next in importance are 
the imposing and admirably preserved Thermae of Badenweiler. 
which afford an idea of the comfort and accommodation of these 
establishments even in provincial towns, the Roman fort of Saal- 
burg near Homburg, the inner town- walls of Boppard. the Roman 
towers of the Yburg and Alt-Elerstein near Baden, and the re- 
mains of walls at the Maxburg near Xeustadt and on the Heiden- 
berg near AYiesbaden. After the collections of Mayence ranks the 
Museum of Bonn, which contains most of the relics recently dis- 
covered in the Rhenish provinces : then the collection in the 
Kunsthalle at Carlsruhe. which comprises the antiquities found at 
Badenweiler. Pfullendorf. Sinzheim. Baden-Baden, and the Mer- 
curius-Berg : and finally the museums of Cologne, Spires. Mann- 
heim, and Wiesbaden. 

The comparative insignificance of the memorials of antiquity 
handed down to us is probably to be accounted for by the ravages 
of the barbarian hordes in 395, which were nowhere so destructive 
as on the banks of the Rhine, one of the longest and most im- 
portant boundaries of the Roman Empire. Not only did the Ger- 
manic races of the Franks, the Burgundians, the Suevi , and the 
Vandals, driven from their original territory, force their way across 
the Rhine with a view to find a new home in the plains of Gaul or 
even of Spain, but their antagonists also, the Huns, followed them, 
spreading desolation far and wide until their victorious career at 
length received a decisive check in the Catalaunian plains (Cha- 
lonsj , where they were totally defeated by the Germanic tribes in 
451. In the course of these migrations the barbarians utterly 
destroyed most of the once prosperous Roman - towns on the Rhine 
and converted their obnoxious forts into heaps of ruins, and, as 
an inevitable result, the civilisation of the country at once retro- 
graded several centuries. In 406 Mayence was entirely destroyed, 
and in 464 Treves was sacked for the fifth time. For these the 
5th century produced no substitute except a few fortifications of 
the rudest description, and to this period probably belong the so- 
called Heidenmauer near Limburg in the Rhenish Palatinate, and 
the Ring on the Altkonig near Soden. works whose Germanic or 
barbari m character is entirely distinct from that of Roman struc- 
tures. When at length the Franks had raised themselves above 
the other immigrants to the W. of the Rhine , and their kingdom 
had attained to considerable extent and importance under the Me- 
rovingians, who had embraced Christianity, the frontier tribes 
gradually became more civilised, and new towns began to rise from 
the ruins of the ancient Roman colonies. After Vlovis had swept 
away the last traces of the Roman Empire in Gaul in 486, and 
had conquered the Alemanni on the banks of the Rhine in 496. 



RHENISH ART. 



XXIII 



unity began to take the place of wild discord , and the Roman 
Church to All the chasm between Roman and Germanic paganism on 
the one side and Arianism on the other. Bishoprics and churches 
were now founded , and the old Christian places of worship , of 
which there were several at Treves, Cologne (Church of the Golden 
Martyrs, now St. Gereon, and SS. Cornelius and Cyprianus, now 
St. Severin), Mayence , and Bregenz, were now restored and ex- 
tended , generally on the model of the Roman basilicas on a re- 
duced scale, while the bishops and the Merovingian monarchs vied 
with one another in their zeal for the pious work. Thus Bishop 
Nicetius of Treves (530 — 560) restored the already existing Con- 
stantinian places of worship in that town , devoting special care 
to the embellishment of the Cathedral. To his successor Magneri- 
gus (about 587) are ascribed the churches of St. Maximin and 
St. Eucharius (afterwards St. Matthew). At Mayence, about the 
same period, Bishop Sidonius erected the church of St. George and 
a Baptistery , and at Cologne the construction of St. Gereon was 
continued by Caraternus. At the same time bishops did not neglect 
the building of Secular Edifices. To Nicetius of Treves is attri- 
buted the erection of a castle below the town , which according to 
Fortunatus was a structure of great strength and magnificence, 
and occupied the site of the more recent and still partly existing 
castle of Bischofstein. It is said to have been a three storey ed 
building, borne by marble columns, provided with a chapel , and 
enclosed by extensive ramparts with 30 towers of defence, the 
whole having been built by architects from Italy. At Cologne, 
within the Roman walls of which Sigbert, one of the Franconian dy- 
nasty, had established his residence, and which continued to be 
one of the chief towns of Austrasia from his murder down to the 
fall of the Merovingians, secular architecture made considerable 
progress , especially under the Merovingians themselves. At the 
same time Constance, Strassburg, Worms, Bingen, Coblenz, Ander- 
nach, and other towns on the banks of the Rhine began to be re- 
stored on a humbler scale by the various Germanic tribes. 

The 7th century produced several new works of importance, 
particularly in the diocese of Treves. In the town itself the nun- 
nery of St. Irminen was erected about 625 by Bishop Modoald, 
Tholey on the Saar by Dagobert 1. (622—33), Pfalzel about 690 
and Echternach about 698 by Adela and Irmina, two daughters of 
Dagobert II. , and Mettlach on the Saar by Bishop Ludwin. At 
Cologne the church of St. Clement (St. Cunibert) is ascribed to St. 
Cunibert (d. 633) , that of St. German at Spires to King Dago- 
bert I. , and the monastery of Weissenburg on the Lutra to Bishop 
Dragobod (664 — 700). The foundation of several monasteries far- 
ther up the river, that of St. Thomas at Strassburg, Haselach in 
the Vosges, Munster in the Gregorienthal , Schuttem between 
Offenburg and Lahr , and St. Sigismund near Rufach, also belongs 



XXIV 



RHENISH ART. 



to the Ttli century. About the year 610 the Abbot Columban. 
ha Nina been banished from Burgundy, settled at Pregentia (Bre- 
genz] on the Lake of Constance, from which he sent forth his pupil 
Gallus to found the afterwards celebrated Abbey of St. Gallen. and 
a little later the monastery of Sdckingen on the Rhine was founded 
by the Irish monk Fridolin. 

Xo trace of any of these works, however, is now extant, most 
of them, it is believed, having been constructed of wood. The 
same remark applies to the buildings erected under the descendants 
of Pepin, after the fall of the Merovingians. The best developed 
of all these establishments was that of St. Gallen. which embraced 
dwellings for artizans . a hospital . and a school, and a residen e 
for the abbot, styled the Palatium. The church was entirely built 
of stone, and was one of the earliest which possessed a crypt. At 
Strassburg and in the neighbourhood Duke Ethiko I. and his son 
Adelbert were the authors of several important undertakings. They 
greeted the castle of Hohenburg [Odilienburg) on the Vosges . to 
the SwW. of Strassburg . on the site of a Roman fort, and converted 
it into a nunnery, and they founded the monasteries of Niedermiin- 
ster. Ebersheim - Miinster. and Masmiinster in the environs, and 
the nunnery of St. Stephen in the town. Coeval with these . and in 
the same diocese, were the monasteries of Honau , Ettenheimmiin- 
■<ter . Surburg , Schwarzach . NeuweiUr , Leberau . St. Hippolyte. 
Murbnch. and. farther S. . that of EeicJienau in the Zellersee , the 
most important of all. At Mayenee the 8th century produced the 
churches of St. Martin (^afterwards the cathedral"). St. Lambert, 
St. Victor. St. Alban, and St. Peter, and the monastery of St. Xico- 
mede. and within the same diocese the Abbey of Lorsch was founded 
by Count Cancor in 763 and afterwards extended in the reign of 
Charlemagne. In the diocese of Treves the abbeys of Pri'im and 
Kesslingen were founded by Pepin III. and his consort Bertrada 
about 762 . and at Cologne the church of St. Martin Major by 
Pepin of Heristal and his wife Plectra dis about the same period. To 
the latter is also attributed the nunnery of St. Maria in Capitolio. 
which probably occupied the site of the Roman praetorium (Capitol]) 
and the subsequent Franconian palace. To this epoch belong like- 
wise the monasteries of Kaiserswerth and Sk Marten at Emmerich, 
founded by the IrUh missionaries Suitbert and Willebrord. 

These structures were probably for the most part architecturally 
insignificant, and therefore incapable of transmitting substantial 
memorials to posterity. Bishop Xicetius of Treves alone appears to 
have employed skilled architects, whom, as already mentioned, he 
procured from Italy. His example was not followed until a later 
period, when Ch arle m ag n e , after having received the imperial 
crown at Cologne in the year 800 . strove to rebuild the ancient 
glory of the empire on Christian foundations, and. being a muni- 
ficent patron of art and science, became the inaugurator of a new 



RHENISH ART. 



XXV 



era in the history of both. In 773 , when that monarch entered 
Italy during the Lombard war , and in several subsequent cam- 
paigns , he became acquainted with classic ground , and appears 
to have been deeply impressed with Ravenna as well as Rome itself. 
There is little doubt that the Abbey of Lorsch, already mentioned, 
is indebted to Charlemagne for its remarkable porch, which is still 
extant , but the emperor bestowed his chief attention on his resi- 
dential city of Aix-la-Chapelle, where new walls, baths, and theatres 
arose under his auspices , and where a magnificent palace , the 
wonder of his contemporaries, superseded the modest dwelling-house 
and chapel founded by his father Pepin. Ansegis of Fontanelle, 
afterwards abbot of Aix-la-Chapelle , who was entrusted with the 
superintendence of these works, was directed to build the palace- 
church on the model of the circular Byzantine church of S. Yitale 
at Ravenna, and to hire Italian workmen for the purpose. The 
completion of the task afterwards devolved on Eginhard, the learned 
biographer of Charlemagne , who zealously devoted himself to the 
work and in one of his letters mentions his study of the architec- 
tural treatises of Yitruvius. The beautiful church remains , almost 
intact, but the adjoining palace, which probably occupied the same 
site as the Rathhaus erected in the 14th century, was destroyed by 
the Normans in 881 and by a fire in 1164. A similar fate befel 
another palace of Charlemagne at Ingelheim, 9 M. below Mayence, 
which is said to have been sumptuously decorated with pictures 
and columns of marble , and his residences at Frankfort , Worms, 
Tribur, and Nymwegen have likewise disappeared. The foundations 
and a few stray columns, such as those at the Castle of Heidelberg, 
are now the sole relics of these structures. 

The panegyrists of Charlemagne have stated that he was the 
founder of as many churches as there are letters in the alphabet, 
but a still higher merit attaches to his memory for his exertions in 
restoring, extending, and embellishing those which already ex- 
isted. The eight Saxon bishoprics founded by Charlemagne, those 
of Miinster, Osnabriick, Paderborn, Minden, Bremen, Yerden, Hil- 
desheim , and Halberstadt, did not, however, prosper immediately 
after their subjugation of the heathen inhabitants of these places, 
and they accordingly possessed no buildings of any importance 
until the 9th century. None of these works of the Carlovingian 
period had as yet exhibited any trace of a national style of archi- 
tecture. The Roman basilica type still prevailed in the erection of 
places of worship, and it was in isolated instances only, as for 
example in the choir of the nuns in the abbey-church at Essen 
(874), and in the much later abbey church of Ottmarslieim, near 
Miilhausen (11th cent."), that the circular Byzantine form, which 
had first been imported from Ravenna to Aix-la-Chapelle, found 
favour on German soil. The decorations, too, were copied from 
Roman models, and some of the columns and beams were even im- 



XXVI 



RHENISH ART. 



ported from Roman buildings, while the workmen employed were 
either Italians or less skilful natives whose workmanship consisted 
of rude- imitations of the antique. 

The succeeding Carlovingians accomplished far less than their 
illustrious predecessor. Eginhard indeed erected a monastery at 
Seligenstadt. now ObermuMheim near Mayence. and a church at 
Michelsladt in the Odenwald. hut the zeal . as well as the ability 
tV.r building, speedily declined. Among the few edifices erected 
in the 9th cent, the Cathedral at Cologne (814 — 873), begun by 
Archbishop Hildebold on the site of the present Cathedral, and the 
monastery of St. Gallen are alone worthy of notice. The original 
plan of the latter . dating from 8'20 . and still preserved in the li- 
brary of St. Gallen. is highly interesting and instructive. It shows 
a basilica, in the midst of extensive monastic precincts, with two 
apses at each extremity, a form identical with that of the coeval 
church of St. Salvator at Fulda and the cathedral at Cologne. A 
few relics of this period are still extant in the church of St. Castor 
at Coblenz. 

The art of the sculptor occupied a very low position during 
this period, and appears to have been almost entirely devoted to 
the decoration of weapons and utensils. The archaeologist will in 
vain -eek in the Rhineland for works like those at Cividale in 
Friaul [N. Italy), or for sculptured sarcophagi like those of Upper 
Italy. Dalmatia. and S. France. Neither the treasures discovered 
in the tomb of Childeric ( d. 481^) at Tournai. nor the utensils of 
Gourdon ( in Burgundy) of a slightly later period, nor the crowns 
found at Guarrazar in Spain have any analogy in the Rhineland. 
Even the ivory diptychs so common in the South, such as the 'con- 
sular diptychs' which occur down to a late period of the Empire, 
and which afterwards gave rise to a highly ornate style of book- 
binding, appear to have been rarely used on the banks of the 
Rhine, although they more frequently occur at Bamberg, on its tri- 
butary the Main, about the year 1000. At this early period paint- 
ing was the art almost exclusively in vogue, in consequence of its 
having come to be regarded as a specifically Christian art since its 
employment in the decoration of the catacombs and the earliest 
basilicas . while the plastic art was thought to have a dangerous 
tendency to revive the errors of heathen idolatry. The basilicas on 
the Rhine were decorated in the same style as those in Italy . and 
Charlemagne in particular appears to have had a taste for coloured 
decorations. The paintings and mosaics in the cathedral at Aix- 
la-Chapelle ( the dome of which was adorned with a Saviour in the 
art of benediction, on a starry ground! were probably of Italian work- 
man-hip. or at least copied directly from Italian models, as were 
also the bronze door- and balustrades which are still partially pre- 
served: but from the detailed descriptions we possess of the his- 
torical frescoes at Ingelheim . they must have exhibited more ori- 



RHENISH ART. 



XXVII 



ginality, although it is not certain that native skill was employed 
in the work. These paintings pourtrayed the exploits of Ninus 
Cyrus and Alexander, of Romulus and Hannibal, of Constantine 
and Theodosius , of Charles Martel, of Pepin, and of Charlemagne 
himself, a programme probably planned by his erudite friends Egin- 
hard, Alcuin, and Ansegis. That the execution of these works 
differed from the traditional Roman and Byzantine forms , or that 
at least they were inspired with new life by the infusion of a nor- 
thern element, is proved by the still existing illuminated MSS. of 
the Carlovingian period, the finest of which , the Codex Aureus 
preserved in the library at Treves, was executed by order of Ada, 
the sister of Charlemagne. This work shows but faint traces of 
the early Roman-Christian treatment , based on ancient models, 
which occurs in Roman basilicas and MSS. of the 5th and 6th 
centuries, and Byzantine influence is observable only in the rnea- 
greness and poverty of the figures and in the greenish hue of the 
shading, while the barbarous but promising Franconian element, 
with its drastic colouring and uncouth forms, which seem to strive 
after fidelity at the expense of beauty, is strikingly apparent, and 
the Anglo-Saxon and Celtic mode of embellishing the initials and 
margins with fantastic wreaths and serpentine flourishes also con- 
tribute to impart to the work a distinctively Northern character. 

The great progress of art under Charlemagne and his son Louis 
the Pious , especially in the Rhenish provinces , did not, however, 
continue during the latter part of the 9th century. The terrible 
political degeneracy which gained ground under the later Carlovin- 
gians, as it had done towards the close of the Merovingian dynasty, 
could not fail to prove prejudicial to the advance of civilisation. 
Princes engrossed with measures for selfpreservation could afford 
but little time for the promotion of art. The cruel and bloody feuds, 
even among relations, which began to prevail under the grandsons 
of Charlemagne , and the ravages of the generally victorious Nor- 
mans and Avars were the all absorbing cares of the age. Meanwhile, 
in a few monasteries only, the arts dragged on an obscure existence, 
as at St. Gallen, under the Abbot Tutilo (d. 912), whose two tablets 
of ivory still shown in the library , afford a fair specimen of the 
workmanship of this degenerate period ; or at Weissenburg, where 
the monk Otfried was the first to translate the Gospels into Ger- 
man rhyme. The illuminations of the MSS., however, are generally 
confined to pen-and-ink sketches , as in that of the Wessobrunner 
Gebet at Munich , the Gospels paraphrase of Otfried at Vienna, 
and the grammar of Donatus at the monastery of St. Gallen. Where 
colours are employed, the dwarfed and distorted figures and the 
rude and ill-assorted colouring betray the most profound degra- 
dation of art. 

The Rhineland progressed but slowly in the 10th century, 
when on the extinction of the Carlo vingians (910) the central point 



XXVHI 



RHENISH ART. 



of the Germanic empire was removed farther eastwards under the 
Saxon emperors. It was. moreover, a doubtful gain that the decay- 
ing art, or rather workmanship, of the Eastern empire now- tem- 
porarily checked the barbarous beginnings of a national style of 
art. especially under Otho II., who married a Byzantine princess 
in 792. This was of course not so much the case on the banks of 
the Rhine as in the immediate vicinity of the Saxon court, and 
the paintings of Hademar and Witigowo at Beichenau , as well as 
those at Petershausen near Constance , are not entirely devoid of 
the Carlovingian traditions. Venice, on the other hand, which had 
gradually superseded Ravenna as a Western outpost of Oriental art, 
appears to have furnished the colour, and to some degree the style, 
of the Petershausen paintings, and the same symptoms are traceable 
in the still extant Rhenish MSS. illuminations, as in the Codex 
written for Bishop Egbert of Treves [978 — 993Y and still preserved 
in the library there. 

At the close of the 10th century barbarism and degeneracy had 
gained such ground throughout Western Europe that people ge- 
nerally looked forward despondingly to the year 1000 as the date of 
the end of the world. The Rhenish districts in particular appear 
at this period to have been utterly sunk in social degradation. 
From Friesland to Alsace the progress of civilisation was arrested by 
the interminable feuds which were everywhere carried on, and 'the 
sun of justice appeared about to set for ever.' It is, therefore, not 
surprising, that during the latter part of the 10th cent., when the 
awful catastrophe was supposed to be imminent, no one dreamt of 
erecting new buildings. But the year 1000 came and — passed 
by. As the hitherto prevalent lethargy and inactivity had been 
profound, so the long pent up zeal which now burst forth . stimu- 
lated by gratitude and hopefulness, was unbounded , and at once 
put an end to the stagnation of the two preceding centuries. On 
all sides now began the work of demolishing the old and dilapi- 
dated churches , in order to replace them with more spacious and 
costly structures. As the task progressed, new ideas began to pre- 
vail, and at the beginning of the 11th century the Romanesque 
Style arose from the ruins of the 10th and superseded the Christian 
basilica and the Byzantine styles. This new style, which is often 
erroneously confounded or even identified with the Byzantine, 
is rather based in its main features on the basilical . that is the 
Roman architecture. Attempts, however . were made to remedy the 
defects of the basilica , and the first step in this direction was the 
abolition of the ancient slender column, which, although strong 
enough to bear the appropriate beams, appeared inadequate to 
support the lofty upper wall of the nave of a basilica of bolder 
type. The shaft was accordingly made thicker, and the Corinthian 
capital diminished to the form of a cube with spade-shaped sides, 
so as to resemble the massive Byzantine capital with its trapezium- 



RHENISH ART. 



XIX 



shaped sides, with which however it must not be confounded. Not 
unfrequently the columns of the basilica were entirely or partially 
replaced by buttresses , on the development of which medieval 
church architecture was afterwards mainly dependent. How.different 
this was from the Byzantine style is chiefly manifest from the 
fact, not only that the dome peculiar to the latter was entirely 
neglected , but that in the first century of the Romanesque period 
the horizontal wooden ceiling of the basilica was retained , and no 
vaulting employed except in the crypts. The construction of 
vaulting did not develop itself until the second period (from a little 
before 1100 down to 1200), and then not in the form of the dome, 
but in that of cross - vaulting , which first found its way from the 
crypt to the aisles , thence to the intersection of the nave and 
transept, to the choir, and finally to the nave. To this period the 
term 'circular' is first applicable. The construction of more sub- 
stantial pillars was now indispensable , but in order that the de- 
corative effect of columns might not be lost, half-columns were 
placed against the low pillars, and even continued upwards beyond 
them to the spring of the vaulting , so as to impart architectural 
articulation to the bare upper walls , and at the same time to 
strengthen the supports of the vaulting. A richer style of plastic 
ornamentation was next devised, and as the ancient traditions 
were abandoned for new and original ideas, more harmonious forms 
were the result, and great fertility of taste was manifested in the 
decoration of capitals, friezes, and mouldings. Externally, in par- 
ticular, the upper parts of the storeys and walls were adorned with 
the characteristic friezes of the circular style , for which tasteful 
colonnades in miniature were frequently substituted , so as to re- 
ciprocate , as it were , the round-arch structure and arcades of the 
interior. But the chief ornament of the exterior came to be an 
exuberant development of tower, incorporated however in such a 
way with the building as to form with it an organic whole, while 
in the Italian style, on the other hand, the campanile always form- 
ed a distinct, detached structure. In the case of the larger struc- 
tures it became customary to place a tower at each of the four 
corners , and to erect a loftier central tower over the point of in- 
tersection of the nave and transepts. 

Flat -roofed Romanesque basilicas are of comparatively rare 
occurrence in the Rhenish provinces , as the construction of vault- 
ing was earliest developed in this district (about the middle of the 
11th century). Among the most primitive works of this style may 
be mentioned the ruined abbey-church of Limburg in the Palatin- 
ate (p. 232), erected in 1030 — 42; another in the church at 
Echternach , near Treves , the nave of which is borne by pillars 
alternating with columns with plain cube-shaped capitals: then 
the church of Hochst near Frankfort (p. 155), an edifice of the 
same century, showing a Corinthian tendency in the formation of 



XXX 



RHENISH ART. 



the capitals: and finally the church of St. George, at Cologne, 
completed about 1076, the roof of which was originally flat. 
Churches originally constructed for a fiat roof, and covered with 
vaulting on the occasion of subsequent restoration are of not un- 
frequent occurrence. A notable example of this is the church of 
St. Maria im Capitol ( p. 27"), originally one of the most ancient 
churches at Cologne , consecrated in its present form by Pope 
Leo XI. in 1049, In order to support the vaulting, pilasters, rest- 
ing on corbels above the capitals of the pillars, have been added. 
The apsidal terminations of the transepts . as well as of the choir, 
also formed a peculiar feature in the plan of this church . which 
exercised a marked influence on the subsequent churches of Co- 
logne, such as that of the Apostles (p. 28), founded in the 11th. 
and even that of Gross St. Martin (p. 26), founded in the 12th 
century. 

The most prominent example of the second period of the Ro- 
manesque style, and one calculated in the treatment of the pillars, 
from its very foundation, for a vaulted construction, is the ca- 
thedral of Speyer fp. 184). It is said to be coeval with the church 
of Limburg ( 1036), but the genius which presided over its erection 
appears to have been fully a century in advance of its contempo- 
rary. The articulation of the pillars and walls in this harbinger of 
the Romanesque vaulted style shows, indeed, a perfection which 
was rarely afterwards surpassed. Next to the cathedral of Spires 
must be placed those of Mayence and Worms , and the handsome 
abbey-church of Loach, all erected in the early part of the 12th 
century. The first of these (p. 102) , which was probably begun as 
a vaulted structure in 1081 . after the older church had been de- 
stroyed by fire in 978 , has lost its uniformity of design in conse- 
quence of various vicissitudes, but the spacious and handsomely 
restored interior is probably more imposing than that of any other 
Romanesque church in existence. Little of the cathedral of Worms 
(p. 226), which was consecrated in 1110, but not completed till 
1181, belongs to this period of the infancy of the art ; in the main, 
however . it resembles that of Spires , although occasionally almost 
barbarous in the vigour of its character. The abbey-church of Laach 
(p. 69), erected in 1093 — 1156. is very effective, especially ex- 
ternally . with its harmonious richness of design and handsome 
towers. It differs , however . from the other works of the period 
in this respect, that the vaulting of the nave is only twice . instead 
of four times the width of that of the aisles , and employs all the 
pillars for its support. 

About the beginning of the 13th century the, pointed arch 
began to show itself in the midst of the hitherto exclusively circular 
Romanesque forms , and gave rise to the so-called Transition 
Style. An early example of this is the Church of St. Quirinus 
at Xeuss (p. 32), erected by Wolbero in 1209. where the caprice of 



RHENISH ART, 



XXXI 



form which invariably proclaims the decline of a style is frequently 
exhibited. One of the finest works of this period was the Cis- 
tercian church of Heisterbach (p. 51), in the Seven Mountains, 
most of which has unfortunately been demolished; another, of 
special interest, is the Minister at Bonn (p. 46) , part of which 
dates from the pure Romanesque period, and a third is the cathe- 
dral of Limburg (p. 146) on the Lahn, begun in 1213. Next to 
these rank the choir and tower of the church of Gelnhausen, the 
church of Brauweiler near Cologne (p. 10), the abbey church of 
Werden, the greater part of St. Gereon (p. 29) and St. Cunibert 
(p. 31) at Cologne , the latter consecrated in 1248 , the parish 
churches of Andernach (p. 60) and Boppard (p. 84), and St. Peter's 
at Bacharach (p. 90). 

In the province of sculpture during the Romanesque period, 
from the beginning of the 11th to the middle of the 13th century, 
the towns on the banks of the Rhine were at first far less profi- 
cient than many other places in Germany, such as Bamberg, Augs- 
burg, and Hildesheim. The finest Rhenish works of the 11th cen- 
tury are preserved in the treasury of the abbey-church at Essen 
(p. 37), where the ivory covering of a book of the Gospels and a 
crucifix of 1054 are specially worthy of mention. Both of these, 
as well as the older works in the treasury (crucifixes and a seven- 
branched candelabrum executed about 990), still adhere to the By- 
zantine forms. — In the 12th century the plastic art was more 
generally practised, but the works of that period, such as the 
sculptures of St. Pantaleon in the museum at Cologne, are crude 
and uncouth in character. The figures in the doorway of St. Cecilia 
at Cologne and those at the porch of the parsonage at Remagen are 
other examples of the same type. The greatest work of this epoch, 
however, is the so-called Mdrtyrer- Tafel at Bale (p. 247). 
— Even in the 13th century the plastic efforts of the Rhine- 
land fall far short of those of Saxony, as well as of France, and the 
scantiness of the works betrays a consciousness of incapacity. 
This, however, is compensated for by the unusual zeal displayed 
by the Rhinelanders in the art of painting, stimulated apparently 
by the example of Paderborn, where Bishop Meinwerk had estab- 
lished a school of painting of considerable repute as early as the 
beginning of the 11th century. It is, however, probable that their 
first attempts were inferior to those of their contemporaries at 
Bamberg, the favourite residence of Emp. Henry II. With regard 
to their mural painting, it is impossible to express any opinion, 
no work of that description of the earlier Romanesque period being 
now extant, but their miniatures still exhibit a primitive rude- 
ness, combined with a Byzantine tendency. The earliest works 
of the former class handed down to us belong to the 12th century, 
as in the church of Schwarz-Rheindorf (p. 43) near Bonn , which 
is at the same time architecturally remarkable. The effete tradi- 



XXXII 



RHENISH ART. 



tions of typical forms seem here at length to have been overcome, 
and the range of subjects represented widens, while the costumes 
and physiognomies are drawn from the present rather than from 
antiquity or Byzantinism, and the figures begin to be enlivened by 
gesture. The art. however, as yet consisted merely of laying on 
simple colours within the boldly drawn outlines. The paintings in 
the abbey of Brauweiler near Cologne are similar in character. 
At Cologne, too. where however no important work of the 12th 
century is preserved, painting appears to have flourished at this 
period, although not to the same extent as at Soest and HMdeskeim 
(see Baedeker s Handbook for N. Germany ). The earliest attempts 
worthy of note are the remains of mural paintings of the 13th 
century in St. Gereons . where the drapery at least exhibits 
light and shade, next to which rank the ten Apostles at St. Ursula, 
of 1*2*24 . and the ancient stained glass of St. Cunibert. The 
remains in St. Castor's at Coblenz are hardly worthy of mention, 
but those in the church of the Teutonic Order at Ramersdorf near 
Bonn are more important. The drapery now becomes softer and 
more flowing, the figures more correctly formed, the heads round- 
er, and the expression less rigid. Towards the close of the 13th 
century the medieval germs of art at length blossomed forth in 
the Rhineland. and afterwards in the rest of Germany, into what 
is generally known as Gothic Art. This consummation had taken 
place at a much earlier period in Xorthern France, while Germany 
was still engaged in developing the Romanesque style, which was 
comparatively neglected in France. Thus the choir of St. Denis, 
near Paris, the earliest example of the unmixed pointed style, was 
begun as early as 1140. at a period when the churches of Mayence. 
AVornis. and Laach still adhered to the Romanesque cathedral type ; 
and the Gothic cathedrals of Xoyon . Chalons . Blois , Laon , Paris, 
Sens, and Senlis were already completed before the Rhenish tran- 
sition style had made its appearance. After repeated experiments 
in this style . to which the Premonstratensian church at Aller- 
he'digen (p. 25T) in the Black Forest, the Cistercian church at Ma- 
rienstadt in Nassau (begun in 1225), and the Liebfrauenkirche at 
Treves (erected in 1227 — 43) belong, the Rhineland at length 
produced in the Cathedral of Cologne (p. 19) an unsur- 
passed example of the fully developed Gothic style, although that 
stupendous edifice is open to the reproach of being in some re- 
spects a mere copy of the cathedrals of Amiens and Beauvais, and 
displaying a somewhat servile adherence to rule. The choir was 
founded in 1248 (more than a century later than that of St. Denis ) 
and consecrated in 1322, and soon influenced the architecture of 
the entire Rhineland. The Cistercian church of Altenberg (p. 15), 
near Cologne . founded seven years later , and the collegiate church 
of Xanten, eight years after it, both show this influence. The hand- 
some coeval church of St. Catharine at Oppenhehn (p. 229). on the 



RHENISH ART. 



XXXIII 



other hand , exhibits greater independence of character. The ca- 
thedral of Freiburg (p. 241), again, has been unable to resist the 
influence of its already completed Romanesque portions (transept) 
and produces even in its Gothic parts a somewhat heavy effect, 
while that of Strassburg (p. 203), the nave of which was added 
to a Romanesque choir in 1275 , presents one of the most perfect 
examples of German Gothic , with the additional merit of greater 
originality and independence of French models than the cathedral 
of Cologne. The chief boast of the Strassburg cathedral is its 
imposing facade, begun in 1277 and executed by Erwin of Stein- 
bach (d. 1318), while the tower with its capricious perpendicular 
construction (completed in 1439) too plainly betrays the decline of 
the style. To this period belong also the cathedral at Frankfort 
(p. 151), the Minster of Weissenburg (consecrated in 1284) , the 
church of St. Martin at Colmar (p. 219) , and the beautiful ca- 
thedral of Metz (p. 18), as well as the abbey - churches of the Mi- 
norites at Cologne, the Dominicans at Coblenz , the Carmelites at 
Kreuznach, the Dominicans at Colmar, Gebweiler, and Schlettstadt 
in Alsace , and at Bale and Constance. Churches with aisles 
gradually rising to the height of the nave , for the convenience of 
being covered by a single roof, are of rare occurrence in the 
Rhineland, the only prominent example being the church of St. 
Blasius at Mulhausen. 

In the sphere of Secular Architecture, to which the Romanes- 
que period contributed a few castles only on the banks of the 
Rhine, the Gothic style has produced several tine examples. To 
these belong the numerous mountain castles which impart so great 
a charm to the scenery of the Central Rhine ; a number of town- 
halls, such as those of Bale, Veberlingen (see Baedeker's Handbook 
for S. Germany), and Cologne, whi h last city also possesses an an- 
cient Gothic merchants' hall, termed the Gilrzenich,' and finally 
numerous dwelling-houses and gateways in all the principal 
Rhenish towns from Bale to Cologne (e. g. the handsome Spahlen- 
Thor at Bale). 

Few of these works, however, date from the 13th century, and 
even these few were not completed until the 14th , which must be 
regarded as the period of the highest perfection of German Gothic. 
At the beginning of the 15th century the decline of the style had 
already set in , manifesting itself in exuberance of ornamentation, 
and particularly in the undue development of tracery. Sound rules of 
construction began to be sapped by the caprices and vagaries of the 
imagination, and imposing consistency of design to be sacrificed to 
a love of mere effect, beneath which the constructive features peculiar 
to the style were gradually lost sight of. This tampering with fun- 
damental principles undermined and ultimately ruined this magni- 
ficent style, but the process of degradation was extremely slow, for 
the Renaissance which dawned on Italy as early as the 13th cen- 

B^dekek Rhine. 5th Edit. c 



XXXIV 



RHENISH ART. 



tury did not penetrate to the North of the Alps until a much later 
date. So strong, moreover, was the attachment to the accustomed 
architectural forms of the middle ages . that in this instance the 
sister arts were the first to he affected by the new style. 

H e must now glance at the arts of sculpture and painting in the 
Rhineland during the Gothic period. As in ancient Greece the la- 
hours of a Homer and Hesiod paved the way for the introduction of 
the plastic art. so in medieval Europe the famous German minstrels 
laid a foundation for the use of the chisel and the brush. Such 
were the authors of the Xibelungen and Gudrun. and the minstrels 
Hartmann von Aue. Walter v&n der Vogekveide . Wolfram von 
Edchenbach. and Godfrey of Strassburg . who. influenced to some 
extent by French models, gradually revealed the beauties of life to 
their contemporaries. The art of sculpture first began to progress 
in Northern France and in Saxony, while in the Rhineland it clung 
to the Romanesque forms down to the middle of the 13th century, 
as exemplified in the portals of the cathedrals of Bale and Strass- 
burg and that of the Liebfrauenkirche at Treves. It was on the 
Romanesque porches of the S. transept of the Strassburg cathedral 
that Sabina , the daughter of Erwin of Steinba<-h. displayed her 
art : but the figures with which she adorned them were unfor- 
tunately destroyed during the French Revolution. The still pre- 
served figures of the "Church" and * Synagogue' . as well as the 
Death and Coronation of the Virgin in the two archways . afford an 
idea of the beauty and taste of her execution, if indeed we are justi- 
fied in ascribing them to her chisel. Sculpture appears to have been 
first used for the embellishment of Gothic structures in the case of 
the Strassburg facade and the older statues of the apostles in the nave, 
and also in that of the portico of the cathedral at Freiburg [dating 
from about 1 "2 70 ) . The figures become more natural and life-like, 
the drapery assumes richer and more flowing folds . and the faces 
are pleasanter in expression, often wearing a serene smile. Among 
the most prominent works of the close of the 13th century are the 
episcopal monument in the cathedral of Strassburg . the monument 
of Archbishop Siegfried ( d. 1249) in the cathedral of Mayence. that 
of Prince Solms Braunfels at Altenberg on the Lahn. and that of the 
Count of Katzenelnbogen removed from the church of St. Clara at 
Mayence to the museum at Wiesbaden. These possess good drapery 
and portrait-like countenances . but the attitudes are still harsh and 
constrained. The works of the 14th century are far superior in 
execution, such as the statues of Christ. Mary, and Apostles on the 
pillars of the cathedral of Cologne . dating from the middle of the 
century, and the Madonna in the chapel of St. Mary in the same 
i-athedral. Coeval with these sculptures in stone is the bronze mo- 
nument of the Archbishop von Hochstaden (d. i'260 ) . erected in 
the cathedral of Cologne in the first half of the 14th century . and 
that of Archbishop Peter von Aspelt ( d. 1320) is a similar work in 



RHENISH ART. 



XXXV 



the Mayence cathedral. Mailed figures, such as that on the monu- 
ment of the anti-king Giinther von Schwarzburg in the cathedral 
at Frankfort, are of inferior execution. During this period monu- 
mental sculpture is not , as in previous centuries , surpassed by 
ivory carving and goldsmith's work. — In the 15th century the 
peculiar wrinkled, wood -cut style which is sometimes erroneously 
regarded as true Gothic , but really belongs to the period of decline, 
began to extend its influence to sculpturing in stone. The works 
of this character are generally overladen and exaggerated, and 
savour of capricious mannerism, but they often possess a redeeming 
gracefulness of action and attitude, especially in the female figures. 
To fan these sparks into the blaze of the Renaissance was the task 
of the three great Nuremberg masters Adam Krafft , Veil Stoss, 
and Peter Vischer , about the end of the century , a revolution in 
which the Rhineland participated but little. 

During the Gothic period of the 14th century, Cologne , which 
in the 13th had been entirely devoted to the Romanesque style, 
stood pre-eminent in the department of painting, as well as in 
that of architecture. The completion of the choir of the cathedral 
in 1320 necessitated its decoration in colour. The temporary wall 
which once terminated the choir was adorned with a gigantic figure 
of Christ between Peter and Paul, while the angles of the arches 
of the arcades were filled with incense -bearing and trumpet- 
blowing angels , now superseded by modern groups of angels by 
Steinle. The mural paintings in Gothic panels on both the choir 
screens over the stalls are still partially preserved , and although 
poor and superficial in colouring , are composed with consider- 
able taste and feeling. Similar works occur, but without 
apparent improvement, in the Chapel of St. Mary in the cathedral 
(concealed by an altar), in the crypt and sacristy of St. Severin, 
and in the Hanseatic Hall at the Rathhaus (the remains in this last 
case , however , being very scanty). Compared with these , the 
paintings in the crypt of the cathedral of Bale occupy a lower rank. 
The fact is that mural painting, which enjoyed the amplest scope 
and was extensively practised during the subsistence of the early 
basilica style, entirely lost its basis on the introduction of the Gothic 
style. The surfaces of the walls were now broken with pillars, 
flying buttresses, and large intervening windows. All the non- 
supporting members had disappeared , and with them the interven- 
ing walls between the supports of the vaulting. If painting was 
not to be entirely banished, its only alternative was to take refuge 
in the windows ; and this was the more easily done as the 
Romanesque style had already set the example , and in France the 
art of staining glass had made considerable progress in consequence 
of the universal adoption of the Gothic style. It was there- 
fore in the stained -glass windows of Cologne, Freiburg, Strass- 
burg, and Oppenheim. that the pictorial art of the 14th and 15th 

c* 



XXXVI 



RHENISH ART. 



centuries displayed its greatest triumphs. The extant pictures of 
that period are executed 'a tempera* on whitened tablets of wood. 
The most important work of the kind is the small altar-piece in the 
museum at Cologne (No. 30) . representing Christ on the Cross, 
with the Nativity, the Magi, the Ascension, and the Day of Pente- 
cost on the wings. The museum contains five other similar works 
judiciously arranged, but their more spirited and pleasing cha- 
racter indicate that they belong to the latter part of the 14th 
century. Finally, the Archives of Coblenz possess a good example 
of the miniature painting of the period , a codex with illumi- 
nations , executed by order of Archbishop Balduin of Treves to 
commemorate the achievements of his brother Emperor Henry TIL 
of Luxemburg (1308 — 1313). In this work the mild and pathetic 
character of the later Cologne school , although in rude and pri- 
mitive forms, begins to be observable. 

Painters at length begin to be known by their names , the most 
celebrated being M e i st er Wilhelm, who is said by the 'Lim- 
purger Chronik 5 to have been the best painter in Germany and to 
have died in 1380. This was probably Wilhelm of Herle , a village 
near Cologne, but he must have died earlier, as his widow is men- 
tioned in the year 1378. A later master Wilhelm (of Bergershausen) 
is spoken of in the year 1424. while a third master Heinrich of 
Wynrich . the second husband of the widow of "Wilhelm of Herle, 
completes the trio. The first of these was probably not the author 
of the great revolution in art which is marked by the altar of St. 
Clara , now in the chapel of St. John in the cathedral . and above 
all by the beautiful Madonna with the bean -blossom (Museum, 
No. 40), the date of which can hardly have been earlier than 1400, 
although these works are popularly assigned to the 'Meister Wil- 
helm' ; but as nothing is known of their real authorship , it is 
useless to enquire whether Wilhelm of Herle or Wilhelm of Bergers- 
hausen be meant. One thing at least is certain, that the rigid 
types of ancient tradition were now utterly swept away ; devout 
fervour , humility , and innocence now began to be pourtrayed 
with inimitable pathos . and a German Fiesole was attained. This 
new tendency forthwith captivated the entire artistic world , and 
multitude of hands were eagerly put forth to the work , but they 
were soon «again subjected to the still mightier influence of Flan- 
ders, by which first Cologne and then the upper Rhineland was 
affected. 

After a few Flemish masters in the Burgundian service had pre- 
pared the way for him, Hubert v an Eyck , an unexampled prodigy 
in the history of art, appeared at Bruges about 1410. He was not 
only the founder of the new art of oil-painting . but he succeeded 
in bringing that art to a perfection which justly excites our admi- 
ration at the present day. Those who have attentively examined 
the altar-piece at Ghent, his last and most important wcrk . or 



RHENISH ART. 



XXXVII 



even the Adam and Eve at Brussels , will not easily forget his 
matchless handiwork. The busy traffic which took place between 
Flanders and Cologne must speedily have brought to the city the 
fame of the great master , and that of his brother John and other 
talented pupils ; and it is but natural that the Cologne painters haste- 
ned to adopt the new method of painting as well as to imitate the 
new style of art. From the influence of Meister Wilhelm, coupled with 
that of the Yan Eycks, now sprang the Cologne school represented 
by Stephan Lo chner , whose famous Dombild, painted in oils 
soon after 1430, adorns one of the choir- chapels of the cathedral. 
The gracefulness peculiar to this school is here combined with 
grandeur of composition , and with the attention to detail and rich- 
ness of colouring which characterise the great Flemish master. 

In the course of the 15th century the same influence was more 
widely felt. Assuming that the 'Master of the Lyversberg Passion , 
the 'Master of St. Bartholomew^ and the 'Master of the Death of 
Mary' (important works at Cologne and Munich), as they are usually 
called in the absence of other names , were natives of Cologne , we 
find two other distinct , although slightly different schools in the 
Rhineland, viz. those of Calcar and Colmar. In the latter of these, 
however, to which the master Martin Schongauer (1440 — 1490) has 
given great prominence in the history of art , the Flemish element 
predominates greatly over that of Cologne and appears in combina- 
tion with Swabian boldness. The transition to the Renaissance is 
represented in the Rhineland by Matthew Grilnewald of Frankfort (?), 
a straggler of the Gothic school of painting , who flourished at 
Aschaffenburg at the beginning of the 16th century. But, although 
in the department of painting the German Renaiss ance first 
dawned upon the Rhineland, the perfect day of that era was destined 
to shine upon the famous imperial cities of Nuremberg and Augs- 
burg , situated in a different part of Germany. Nuremberg, which 
had already given to the world the great Renaissance sculptor Peter 
Vischer , was also the cradle of the famous Durer , while Augsburg 
gave birth to the incomparable Holbein. 

Whilst in ancient and mediaeval times architecture had invari- 
ably influenced the formation of styles , during the Renaissance it 
was painting and sculpture , especially in Germany , which took 
the lead. Before a single building on German soil had yielded to 
the new tendency , the Renaissance of painting was already com- 
pleted by the two great masters just mentioned. The architecture 
of the Renaissance, moreover, first appears in the shape of paintings 
and designs. Thus as early as 1501, a picture by Hans Bur gkmayer 
(Augsburg Gallery, Nos. 20 — 22), although still with Gothic acces- 
sories, presents to us Renaissance architecture in the background, 
blended in the most unsophisticated manner with the earlier style. 
Durer affords instances of the same combination, while Holbein, as 
numerous works in the museum at Bale testify , obviously aban- 



XXXVIII 



RHENISH ART. 



dons the Gothic architectural forms, and their successors Aldegreuer. 
Altdorfer (Bathsheba in the Old Pinakothek at Munich. Cab. Till.. 
No. 138). and Pencz exclusively adopt the architecture of the Re- 
naissance. These examples were also speedily followed onthebanksof 
the Rhine and in the Netherlands by the 1 Master of the Death of Mary', 
Earth, de Bruyn . Bernard van Orley, Herri met de Bles, Jan van 
Mabuse . and other painters. A more immediate stimulus to Re- 
naissance architecture, however, was afforded by the art of sculp- 
ture . and particularly by its architectural monuments to the dead. 
The Tomb of Sebaldus at Nuremberg . Peter Vischers masterpiece, 
still shows a tinge of Gothic, but his relief on the Tucher Monument 
in the cathedral at Ratisbon is in the pure Renaissance style. A 
blending of the two styles is also observed in the monument of the 
Countess von Eltz in the church of the Carmelites at Boppard. 
executed in 1520 by Loyen Hering of Eichstadt, and in the Guten- 
stein epitaphium of the same year in the abbey church at Ober- 
wesel. The latter also contains a monument of 1523 with fully 
developed Renaissance features . and another of 1550. beautifully 
executed in the same style. The tomb of John von Eltz at Boppard, 
of 1578. and that of Hilchen at Lorch. of 1550. are other examples 
of this style. Renaissance monuments of an architectural cha- 
racter appear at Treves in 1527. and at Mayence ( Cardinal Al- 
brecht of Brandenburg) in 1545. and at a later period that cha- 
racter is more largely developed, as at Wertheirn , Stuttgart, and 
Pforzheim . where the choirs are filled with long rows of tombs of 
this class. The Renaissance style also gained admittance to the 
interior of private dwelling-houses, at first in the form of Wood 
Carving, which was employed in the embellishment of panels, 
cornices, and furniture . and afterwards in the form of plate . vases, 
utensils in metal and earthenware . and ornamental tile-stoves. In 
the province of architecture . however, the new system progressed 
with great diffidence. During the first half of the 16th cen- 
tury it is invariably mingled with Gothic . while on the banks of 
the Rhine it can hardly be said to exist at all : but it at length stood 
forth more prominently after the conclusion of the religious peace 
at Augsburg in 1555. In proportion, however, as the Gothic cha- 
racter disappears . symptoms of the 'Baroque Style J begin to 
manifest themselves, thus preventing the art from rising in Germany 
to the perfection of the Italian ; High Renaissance". Eagerness for 
variety, a more common fault perhaps in Germany than elsewhere, 
thus led to the indulgence of caprice. The greatest works of this 
type are the Otto-Heinrichs-Bau at Heidelberg and the arcade of the 
BotMums at Cologne. The gifted prince who erected the former of 
these structures (1556 — 1559), which is still known by his name, 
has the merit of having produced the noblest example of German 
Renaissance. Although presenting many points of resemblance 
xvjth the Certosa of Pa via and the beautiful terracotta architecture 



J 

RHENISH ART. XXXIX 

1 of Upper Italy , it yet possesses an independent character , being 
clearly articulated notwithstanding the richness of detail , and ad- 
mirably symmetrical in its proportions. The same can hardly be 
said of the Rathhaus of Cologne (15b9 — 1571), where monumen- 
tal grandeur has been sacrificed to a desire for effect, and where the 
details intended to produce the latter are inadequate to compensate 
for the absence of the former. At the same time the Gothic arches 
of the upper arcade show the obvious reluctance of the Central and 
Lower Rhineland wholly to adopt the principles of the Renaissance. 
On the Upper Rhine , however , the system w T as embraced more un- 
reservedly. Castles like those at Baden , at Gottesau near Carls- 
ruhe , at Offenbach , and at Mayence , town-halls such as those of 
Constance , Mulhausen , Gernsbach , and Strassburg , and numerous 
private edifices, such as the Geltenzunft and Spiesshof at Bale, and 
several buildings at Colmar , Heidelberg , and Mayence , afford ex- 
amples of the style of the 16th century. The first half of the fol- 
lowing century yielded but scanty fruits , owing to the disastrous 
pressure of the Thirty Years' War , but before its outbreak the 
Friedrichs - Bau at Heidelberg and the Schloss at Aschaffenburg 
were completed. When at length, towards the close of the cen- 
tury , Germany recovered from her wounds , independent exertion 
appeared paralysed , and Bernini's baroque style began to contend 
for the mastery with the French of Louis XIV. In the Rhine- 
land the style of the adjacent country naturally prevailed , and, 
although the spiritual Electors on the Rhine, as well as the princes 
of the Palatinate and Baden , were indefatigable in the erection 
of palaces , such as those at Bruchsal , Mannheim , Schwetzingen, 
Carlsruhe, and Coblenz, no work of an independent character was 
ever afterwards produced. In the last of these cases, after archi- 
tecture had long wandered in the devious mazes of the baroque and 
'rococo' styles, it at length returned to a sound , though plain and 
sober classical type. 

During the 16th century the Rhineland was behind the neigh- 
bouring countries in sculpture as well as in architecture. That 
branch of art , devoted chiefly to the execution of monuments to 
the dead , produced few important works except those of a some- 
what architectural character already noticed. The most worthy of 
mention are the monuments of the archbishops Sebastian (1555), 
Melchior (1592), and Wolfgang (1606) at Mayence, and of Adolph 
and Anthony (1561) at Cologne. In the province of decorative 
sculpture the statuary which adorns the Otto - Heinrichs-Bau at 
Heidelberg (1556 — 1559) occupies a prominent rank, while that 
of the Friedrichs-Bau (1601 — 1607) shows a marked decline. After 
the Thirty Years' War Bernini, the most popular master in Italy, 
extended his influence to Germany through the medium of the 
schools in France and the Netherlands , and the style of Girardin 
and Fremin was everywhere imitated with hasty superficiality or 



XL 



RHENISH ART. 



gross exaggeration. This was a period in which sculptors rarely 
considered it worth while to prepare models for their works , as 
everything was designed mainly for effect, and it was thought that 
imposing and massive groups intended to be viewed from a distance 
required no accuracy or delicacy of detail. Masters like Johannes 
Lenz of Cologne, whose beautiful sleeping St. Ursula on the tomb 
of the saint at Cologne was executed in 1685 . never occur in the 
18th century . the workmanship of which seldom rises above that 
of an ordinary stone-mason , while marble as a material becomes 
comparatively rare. The greatest work of this period in the Rhine- 
land , the magnificent monument of Marshal Saxe in the church 
of St. Thomas at Strassburg by Pigalle, is of purely French origin. 

The art of painting also languished in the Rhenish districts du- 
ring the Renaissance. The influence of Holbein died with his 
Swiss pupils Hans Asper and Manuel Deutsch . the latter of whom 
styled himself Alemano , and borrowed much of his style as well 
as his name from Italy. Of Durers pupils few traces now exist on 
the Rhine . and as they and their immediate successors imported 
their style of colouring from Italy . and chiefly from Venice , the 
native art of the Rhine was soon superseded by that of Italy, which 
on foreign soil degenerated into mere mannerism. The same was 
the case with the Cologne painter Hans von Aachen (1552 — 1615), 
who. like his Bavarian contemporaries Schwarz and Rottenhammer. 
was an imitator of Tintoretto. A more independent master was 
Ad. Ekhehner of Frankfort (1574 — 1620), well known for his 
painfully elaborate landscapes. In the 17th century Frankfort took 
the lead among the German schools of painting, and produced 
Sandrart, 1606 — 1688, a pupil of Honthorst, the two Boos, Jo- 
hann Heinrich. 1631 — 1685. and Philip Peter , 1655 — 1705, both 
followers of Berchem and Dujardin, and finally Lingelbach , 1625 
— 1687, an imitator of Wynants and Wouverman. — The 18th 
century . however . produced nothing in the Rhineland but a feeble 
reflex of the style which had become fashionable in France, and 
this was the more deplorable ar there was here no Boucher or Greuze 
to impart the charm of originality to rococo pictures. 

At the beginning of the 19th century the Rhenish districts being 
politically in a condition of the wildest disorder , were precluded 
from participating in the revival of classic art led by Carstens and 
Thorvaldsen in the North, by David and several of his compatriots 
in France, and by Canova in Italy. Cornelius of Diisseldorf , a native 
of the Rhineland. and the prince of modern German painting, hav- 
ing spent a considerable time in Italy . succeeded on his return in 
reviving a taste for mediaeval works , which manifested itself in a 
love of collecting , restoring , and copying , and culminated in the 
project of completing the cathedral of Cologne. Artistic life, thus 
gradually revived, began to* flourish anew, and the Rhineland again 
became its most zealous pioneer. Diisseldorf became one of the 



RHENISH ART. 



XLI 



■chief cradles of modern art and lays claim to one-half of its most 
distinguished representatives. Cologne, Frankfort, and Carlsruhe 
also founded schools of art which have prospered greatly , and have 
probably not yet attained their perfection. Although Diisseldorf 
has devoted itself almost exclusively to painting, the Rhineland 
has also recently produced sculptors of considerable merit, and 
has proved its appreciation of their art by frequently employing 
such men as the Danish master Thorvaldsen and the German 
sculptors Rietschel , Hahnel, Drake, and Blaser to perpetuate the 
memory of its illustrious dead. As beauty of scenery, combined 
with material prosperity , rarely fails to promote the development 
of art , it may be confidently predicted that a brilliant future is 
still in store for this highly favoured land. 



Fall of the Rhine. 

Height above the level of the sea of 



Feet. 

The Toma-See, source of the 

Vorder-Rhein 7689 

TheRheinwald Glacier, source 

of the Hinter-Rhein . . . 7268 

The Lake of Constance . . 1305 

The Rhine at Bale .... 803 



The Rhine at Mannheim 
» r> n Mayence . 
„ „ „ Coblenz . 
„ „ „ Cologne . 
„ „ „ Diisseldorf 
„ „ „ Emmerich 



Feet. 

. 302 

. 272 

. 190 

. 122 

. 87 

. 33 



Breadth of the Rhine, 



Yards. 

At Bale 189 

„ Mannheim - . . 429 

„ Mayence 492 

„ Coblenz 399 



Yards. 

At Bonn 532 

„ Cologne 433 

„ Diisseldorf 409 

„ Schenkenschanz (Dutch front.) 909 



Average Depth of the Rhine. 



Feet. 

Between Bale and Strassburg 3 — 12 

„ Strassburg and Mayence 5 — 25 

„ Mayence and Bonn 9 — 76 

At the Lurlei 76 

Between Bonn and Cologne 10 — 30 

„ Cologne and Diisseldorf 12—66 



XLII 



LENGTH OF THE RHINE. 



Length of the Rhine. 



From Bale to Mannheim 156 

„ Mannheim to Mayence 51 

„ Mayence to Bingen 19 

„ Bingen to Coblenz ; . . . . 41 

„ Coblenz to Cologne 63 

„ Cologne to DiLsseldorf 36 

Diisseldorf to Emmerich 73 

„ Emmerich to Briel (Xorth Sea) 105 

From Bale to the ^orth Sea 544 



Abbreviations. 



R. 




room 


S. = 


south 


L. 




light 


E. = 


east 


E. 




breakfast 


W.= 


west 


D. 




dinner 


r. = 


right 






supper 




left 


A. 




attendance 


min. 


= minv 


y. 




north 


hr. = 


: hour. 



M. = English mile. 



X.B. Everything particularly worthy of note is indicated by an asterisk. 



I. 



t. From Brussels to Cologne. 

By Express in 6*12 hrs. (fares 27 fr. 75, 20 fr. 50 a). Custom-house 
formalities at Cologne (or at Aix-la-Chapelle, if the traveller proceeds no 
farther). Finest views between Louvain and Liege to the right. District 
between Liege and Aix-la-Chapelle replete with interest. 

Brussels^. Hotels in the Place Royale, in the upper part of the town : 
Bellevue, *de Flandre, de l'Edrope, de la Grande Bretagne , all ex- 
pensive. In the lower part of the town : *H6tel de Suede , Rue de 
FEveque , R. 3 l \2, D. 2^2 fr. 5 *de Saxe and *de l'Univers in the Rue 
Neuve, leading from the station into the town. — Hotel de Brabant, 
March e aux Charbons, at the back of the Hotel de Ville. 

English Church Service at the Chapel Royal, Rue du Musee (9 a. m. 
and 2. 30 p. m.), at the Chapel in the Boulevard de TObservatoire, and at 
the Evangelical Chapel, Rue Belliard. 

Brussels, the capital of Belgium and residence of the King, con- 
tains 283,327 inhab., including the suburbs , 2 /3rds of whom speak 
Flemish, y 3 rd French. Like Paris it possesses its Cafe des Mille 
Colonnes , a counterpart of the Champs Elysees and the Garden of 
the Tuileries in the Allee Verte and the Park, its Boulevards, 
Cafes-ehantants , etc. ; but this Paris in miniature should be seen 
before the great French metropolis by those who would avoid dis- 
appointment. 

The passing visitor is recommended to take the following walk, 
which will occupy about half a day : Adjacent to the Rue Neuve, 
which leads from the station into the city, rises the * Martyrs' Mon- 
ument, designed by Geefs , and erected in 1838 to the memory of 
those who fell in the war with Holland in 1830. 

Then past the Theatre Royal to the * Hotel de Ville. The 
magnificent facade of the latter was completed in 1442; statues of 
Dukes of Brabant, erected in 1853, replace those mutilated by the 
sansculottes in 1793. 

On the W. side of the Grande Place are various guild- houses, 
erected at the beginning of last century. Here, on 5th June, 1568, 
Duke Alva witnessed the execution of the counts Egmont and 
Hoorne from the Halle au Pain, or Maison duRoi as it is commonly 
termed, opposite the Hotel de Ville. 

At the back of the Hotel de Ville , at the corner of the Rue du 
Chene and the Rue de l'Etuve , is the Manneken fountain , a gro- 
tesque object of veneration with the populace. 



i For a fuller description of the following Belgian towns, see Bae- 
deker 1 s Belgium and Holland. 

B^deker's Rhine. 5th Edit, 1 



2 Route 1. 



LOUVAIN. 



From Brussels 



The Galerie St. Hubert, an arcade near the Hotel de Ville, is a 
handsome structure , 692 ft. long . 64 ft. high . and 26 ft. broad, 
containing some of the most tempting shops in the city. 

The Place Roy ale is adorned with the equestrian * Statue of 
Godfrey de Bouillon, in bronze, executed by Simonis in 1848. 

The adjoining * Park . which in Sept. 1830 was a spot of great 
importance . having been successfully maintained by the Dutch 
against the Belgians who occupied the Place Royale, is the favourite 
promenade of the citizens. On the S. side rises the Royal Palace. 
on the N. side the Palais de la Nation. 

Not far from the latter, below the Rue Royale. is the ^Cathedral 
>Ste. Gudulej , the finest church in Brussels, with two truncated 
Gothic towers. The choir and transept are of the loth, towers 'and 
nave of the 14th. aisles and the large S. Chapelle du St. Saciement 
of the loth cent. The latter contains a * Monument in marble of 
Count F. de Merode , who fell in a skirmish with the Dutch in 
(830, executed by Geefs. 

The direct route to Louvain diverges to the r. from the Malines 
line at Schaerleek . the first station. Then several small stations. 

Louvain, Flem. Leuven (* Hotel de Suede; Gourde Mons ; Sou- 
vayej. The traveller who stops here should not fail to visit the 
** Hotel de Ville , a magnificent edifice in the later Gothic style, 
erected 1448 — 63, and the Gothic * Church of St. Peter, dating from 
the 15th cent., remarkable for symmetry of proportion. The choir- 
stalls in the Church of St. Gertrude also merit inspection. 

From Brussels io Louvain by Malines, express in 20, ordinary 
trains in 48 min. more than by the preceding route (night express by this 
line only). 

Malines [Hotels de la Grue, de Brabant, etc.: * Gaur Jmptriale. near the 
-tat.)- a quiet town (pop. 34.455) on the Dyle, contains nothing to detain 
the traveller with the exception of a few pictures: in the * Cathedral, an 
edifice with imposing interior, a Crucifixion by Van Dyck ; in St. John's 
the Adoration of the Magi, and in Xotre Dame the Miraculous Draught of 
fishes, both by Rubens. In the Grande Place the Statue of Margaret of 
Austria (d. 1530). erected in 1849. 

Tirlemont, or Thienen { Hotel des Quatre Saisons. at the stat.), 
occupies an extensive area . nearly 6 M. in circumference , but is 
thinly peopled (12 , 188 inhafe.). The Church of St. Germain, suppos- 
ed to date from the 9th cent., is one of the most ancient Christian 
edifices in existence. 

The train next traverses a lofty 'embankment . affording an ex- 
tensive view. In clear weather the Lion and the Prussian monu- 
ment on the held of Waterloo may be distinguished in the distance 
to the r. 

Between Esemael and Landen the line intersects the plain of 
Xeerwinden, the scene of two great battles. In the first the allies 
under William III. of England were defeated in the Spanish War 
of Succession by the French under Marshal Luxembourg, 29th July, 
1693 : in the second the French under Pumouriez and Louis Phi- 



to Cologne. 



li£ge. 



U Route. 3 



lippe ('Egalite') were defeated by the Austrians under the Duke of 
Ooburg, 18th March, 1793. 

Landen was the birthplace of Pepin of Landen , ancestor of 
Pepin the Little and Charlemagne, and f major-domo' of Clotaire II. 
He died here in G40 , and was interred on the hill which bears 
his name. With him began the ascendancy of the Carlovin- 
gian line. 

From Landen a branch-line diverges to Aix-la-Chapelle , a somewhat 
shorter, but less interesting route. Principal stations: /St. Trond, Hasselt 
(capital of the province of Liinburg, scene of a victory gained by the 
Dutch over the Belgians, 6th Aug.. 1831), and Mastricht. 

Beyond stat. Waremme , the line intersects the well-preserved 
Roman Road, or L Road of Brunhilde\ from Bavay (Bavacum Ner- 
vorum) near Mons, to Tongres, 9 M. to the S.E. of Waremme. The 
Hesbaye, a district of which Waremme was formerly the capital, 
was noted for the strength and bravery of its inhabitants , as the 
old proverb testifies : ''Qui passe dans le Hesbain est combattu le 
lendemain! 1 

The undulating, agricultural district of Brabant, with its phleg- 
matic Germanic inhabitants, is quitted near stat. Ans (479 ft. higher 
than Liege) for a mining tract with a Walloon population of Celtic 
origin, remarkable for activity and vivacity of disposition. 

As the train descends the rapid (1 : 30) incline to Lie'ge , a line 
view of the city and the valley of the Meuse is obtained. 

Liege, Flem. Luik, Ger. Lilttich (*H6tel de Suede; Hotel d' An- 
gleterre, etc), pop. 101,594. The traveller whose time is limited 
should visit the Palais de Justice, the Church of St. Jacques , the 
Cathedral (St. Paul), and, for the sake of the view, the Citadel. 

Beyond Liege the Meuse is crossed by the handsome Pont du 
Vol Bendit. Numerous lofty chimneys afford indication of the pro- 
sperity of the district. The extensive zinc - foundry of the Vieille- 
Montagne company is next passed, and the Ourthe crossed. Chenee. 
first station beyond Liege, is another manufacturing town. 

Chaudfontaine (Grand Hotel des Bains) is a small, but pictu- 
resquely situated watering-place. The warm spring (104° Fahr.). 
which rises on an island in the Vesdre , is pumped up to the bath- 
establishment. 

Before the next tunnel is entered, the picturesque castle of 
La Rochette is seen on an eminence to the 1. Near Le Trooz the 
ancient castle of that name is perched on the rocks to the r. of 
the line. For upwards of a century a manufactory of gun-barrels 
has been established in the building. Farther §n. to the r.. the 
castle of Fraipont. 

Between stat. Nessonvaux and Pepinster , to the r. of the line, 
stands the Chateau de Masure (masures = ruined house), erected 
by a wealthy manufacturer of Verviers , and said to occupy the 
site of a hunting-seat of King Pepin. At Pepinster Pepin's ierre' ) 
a branch line diverges to Spa, the well-known watering - pla -e, 

I* 



4 Route 1 . 



AIX-L A- CH APELLE . From Brussels 



T J /2 M. distant. The next stat. Ensival, 1. of the line, is almost 
contiguous to Verviers. 

Verviers [Hotel du Chemin deFer: Rail. Restaurant dear and 
indifferent). with 32, 375 inhab., is a busy commercial town of recent 
origin. Here and in the environs 350,000 pieces of cloth , worth 
3,020.000 L. are manufactured annually. 

Near stat. Dolhain . a modern town , picturesquely situated in 
the valley of the Yesdre , is the ancient fortress of Limburg on an 
eminence , almost the sole remnant of the once flourishing capital 
of the duchy of that name, destroyed by Louis XIV. in 1675. The 
castle was the family seat of the powerful ducal family of Limburg. 
to which the emperors Henry VII. , Charles VI. , Wenceslaus . and 
Sigismund of Germany belonged. The view from this eminence is 
line. Pedestrians will be repaid by a walk (about 25 M.) from 
Dolhain by Verviers to Liege. 

Herbesthal, the first Prussian village, is the frontier station (lug- 
gage in carriage only examined). Beyond stat. Assenet, Lontzen 
and the castle of Welkenhausen lie to the 1. The train crosses the 
valley of the Geul by a handsome viaduct , 128 ft. in height. To 
the 1. lies Hergenrad . and in the distance beyond, the Eine- 
burg or Emmaburg , situated on the slope of wooded moun- 
tains (p. 8). 

The train next passes through two tunnels (575 ft. and 2500 
ft. respectively), and finally descends to 

Aix-la-Chapelle. Hotels: *Gkand 3Ioxaeque (PI. a) in the Biichel, 
and * Hotel Xuellexs (PI. b), opposite the Elisenbrunnen, both 1st class- 
^ Hotel Frank (PL c) : Deagon d*Or (PL d); *H6tel Hotee (Imperial 
Grown Hotel) (PL e), R. 15, D. 22iJ 2 , A. 5 Sgr. * Veuve Dubik*s Hotel 
(PL f), adjoining the Curhaus ; *Jugei/s Hotel (PL g): * Hover's Union 
Hotel (PL h): Caelshaus, with restaurant, new: *K6nig von Spanien 
(PL i), near the Rhenish ' Railway Station: * Hotel Schlemjiee (PL k); 
Hotel du Xoed ; Hotel Geaaf. 3Iarschierthor. 

Bathing Establishments. ^Kaiserbad (PL 26). niasrnificentlv fitted up 5 
Neubad (PL 27); Queen of Hungary (PL 28): Quirinusbad (PL 29); Rosen- 
bad (PL 30): Comeliusbad (PL 31): Carlsbad (PL 32), the three last oppo- 
site the Curhaus (PL 16). — Vapour Baths at Jugel's (see above). 

Restaurants. *Giesen (PL m, Hm Kluppel')-. Scheufen, Harfenann-Str. 5 
Bernarts. Adalbert-Sir. 5 Lenndrtz (oysters) Kloster-Platz. — Beer: Faus- 
ten ; Paulussen, at the foot of the Lousberg. etc. 

Music. In summer 7 — 8 a. m. in the grounds near the Elisenbrunnen, 
and 3—4. 30 p. in. in the Curhaus. — Military Music in the Theater-Platz 
on Sundays at noon. 

Theatre (PL 20). From 1st June to 1st Sept. dramas and operettas 
four times weekly; opera from 1st Oct. to 15th April. 

Cab (Vigilante) for 1 pers. 5 Sgr. from the station to the town. 

Telegraph Office (PL 23) in the Capuzinergraben near the Theatre. 

Picture Gallery of M. Jacob i , Hoch-Strasse 4. — Porcelain and Glass 
magazine of Gerdes-Xeuber, to the E. of the Elisenbrunnen, opposite the 
Kluppel. 

English Church in the Anna-Strasse. Resident chaplain. 

Aix-la-Chapelle , German Aachen , a very ancient town with 
73,722 inhab.. the Aquisgranum of the Romans, lies in a fertile 
basin surrounded by gently sloping hills. It was a favourite r.esi- 



to Cologne. 



AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. 



1. Route. 5 



dence of Charlemagne , who is said to have been born here , and 
who died here in 814. That monarch elevated the town to the rank 
of the second city in his empire , and the capital of his dominions 
•N. of the Alps. From his death down to the accession of Ferdinand I. 
(1531) Aix was the scene of the coronation of all the German em- 
perors (37) and was called par excellence the free city of the Holy 
Roman Empire and seat of royalty ('urbs Aquensis, urbs regalis, reg- 
ni sedes principalis, prima r eg um curia'). The insignia of empire 
were preserved here till 1793 , when they were transferred to the 
Imperial treasury at Vienna. Aix-la-Chapelle has frequently been 
the scene of Imperial diets , ecclesiastical convocations , and con- 
gresses, the last of which was in 1818 , when the allied monarchs 
(of Prussia , Austria , and Russia) determined to recal the German 
troops still in France. In May, 1668, the peace between Louis XIV. 
and Spain was concluded here, by which the French king abandoned 
his pretensions to the Netherlands , and the second Peace of Aix- 
la-Chapelle, of Oct. 1748, terminated the Austrian War of Suc- 
cession. 

Externally this venerable imperial city has retained few remi- 
niscences of her ancient history. The cathedral, corn-exchange, 
Rathhaus, and a few gates are now the only old buildings. Aix has 
become an entirely modern town , with broad , handsome streets, 
considerable manufactories (of cloth, needles, and machinery) , and 
attractive shops. 

The Market , adorned with a Fountain and a poor statue of 
Charlemagne erected in 1620, forms the centre of the city. Here is 
situated the 

Rathhaus (PI. 18) , erected in 1358 , in the simple Gothic 
style. The Hall has been handsomely restored and decorated with 
* frescoes by Bethel and Kehren , and small statues of 36 German 
emperors. 

Frescoes in the Kaiser saa I. 1. The Emp. Frederick Bedbeard at 
the grave of Charlemagne ; 2. Fall of the 'Irmensaule 1 , 3. Battle with the 
Saracens atCorduba; 4. Conquest of Pavia in 744 (these by Bethel) ; 5. Bap- 
tism of Wittekind and Alboin ; 6. Coronation of Charlemagne in St. Peter s 
at Rome; 7. Building of the Cathedral of Aix-la-Chapelle; 8. Abdication 
of Charlemagne and Coronation of his son Louis (these by Kehren). — 
The Council- Hall contains portraits of Napoleon, Josephine, the Em- 
press Maria Theresa, the oldest and most celebrated portrait of Charlemagne 
by an unknown master, and others. 

Towards the W. rises the Granusthurm, an ancient semicircular 
tower, which formerly belonged to the Imperial palace and connect- 
ed it with the cathedral. The square tower on the E. side dates from 
the beginning of the 13th cent. 

The Cathedral {Munsterkirche ; PI. 1) consists of two distinct 
parts in different styles of architecture. That portion erected by 
Charlemagne in 796 — 804, and consecrated by Leo III., improperly 
called the nave, is an octagon in the style of S. Vitale at Ravenna, 
50 ft. in diameter, surrounded by a sixteen - sided gallery, and 



6 Route 1 , 



AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. From Brussels 



terminating in a cupola. 105 ft. in height (the lofty, fantastic roof 
is of the 17th cent.). It is one of the most remarkable monuments 
of Byzantine architecture in Germany, but is unfortunately marred 
by modern disfigurements. Adjoining the octagon on the E. is the 
lofty and elegant Choir in the best Gothic style, begun in 1353. 
completed in 1413. and recently admirably restored. 

In the * Interior the arches of the octagon are borne 
by a double row of marble and granite columns, which separate 
the central space from the surrounding passage. These columns were 
brought from Rome. Treves, and Ravenna. The most valuable were 
removed by the French in 1794 and taken to Paris, but most of 
them were brought back in 1815. and restored to their places in 
1845. Under the gilt candelabrum . which was presented by Fred- 
erick Barbaro-sa. is the tomb of Charlemagne , with the inscription 
-Carolo Magno '. It was opened in 1000 by Oth o III. . and the body 
of the great emperor was found seated on a marble throne . which 
was used afterwards for the coronation ceremonies and is preserved 
in the gallery, or •Hochmiinster.' The antique Sarcophagus of Parian 
marble, in which the remains of Charlemagne reposed for 165 years 
after the first opening of his tomb, has also been placed here: on 
the front is represented the Rape of Proserpine. 

The modern Stained Glass windows . representing scenes from 
the life of the Virgin, were designed by Cornelius and presented 
by Frederick William IV. By the pillars are fourteen statues , re- 
cently gilded and painted, of Charlemagne . the Virgin . and the 
Apostles, probably executed at the time of the erection of the choir. 
The Pulpit, richly adorned with gold . precious stones . and carved 
ivory, was presented by Henry II. (the sacristan shows the pulpit 
and sarcophagus. 1 — 3 pers. 15 Sgr.). 

The Sacristy contains the 'Great Relics', which are held in the highest 
veneration. They consist of 'a robe of the Virgin, the swaddling clothes 
of the Infant, the bloody cloth with which the body of John the Baptist 
was covered after his execution,* and the cloth with which Christ was 
girded on the Cross'. These are exhibited only once in seven years, and 
attract vast crowds of devotees. Among the numerous * Smaller Relics 
t'l Thlr. for 1—8 pers.) are the leathern girdle of Christ, a part of the 
'•true Cross', the girdle of the Virgin. <fcc. , all preserved in curious and 
richly ornamented" mediaeval caskets and monstrances. Among the trea- 
sures are exhibited the skull, gigantic arm (really leg) bone, and hunting- 
horn of Charlemagne. The inside of the door of the press in which these 
treasures are preserved is adorned with small Paintings, attributed to Huge 
v. d. Goes, a pupil of Van Eyek 

The Church-Doors and th Brass Gates of the archways of the 
upper gallery date from the time of Charlemagne, the peculiar Clois- 
ters with their short columns from the 12th and 13th cen- 
turies. 

On the r. and 1. of the principal entrance are a brazen Wolf and 
Pine-Cone of Roman origin, supported by modern pillars. They 
formerly belonged to a fountain in the fish -market, the water of 
which flowed from apertures among the hair of the wolf, or from 



to Cologne. 



AI X-L A - C H APE LLE 



1. Route. / 



holes in the pine-cone which crowned the summit. According to 
the legend, the funds having run short during the erection of the 
church, the devil offered to supply the deficiency on condition that 
the first soul that entered the church should be sacrificed to him. 
The magistrates entered into the compact , but defrauded the devil 
of his due by admitting a wolf into the sacred edifice immediately 
on its completion. 

The other churches of Aix-la- Chapelle contain little to detain 
the traveller. The Augustine Church (PI. 2) contains a painting by 
Diepenbeck, a pupil of Rubens , the Parish Church of St. Michael 
( PI. 3) a Descent from the Cross by Honthorst , and the Church of 
St. Leonhard (PL 4) a Nativity by De Crayer. The new Church of 
St. Mary, near the Rhenish Station , is a handsome Gothic edifice 
of brick, crowned with a gilded statue of the Virgin. 

Near the cathedral is the * Corn-Exchange (PI. 15), em- 
bellished with statues of the seven Electors, probably of the 12th 
century. 

The celebrated warm Sulphur Springs , known to the Romans, 
rise in the town and the neighbouring village of Burtscheid. The 
chief of these is the Kaiser quelle (on the slope of the market-hill)., 
which supplies the Kaiserbad , Neubad , 'Queen of Hungary' , and 
Elisenbrunnen. The Quirinushad and three lower springs in the 
Comphausbad are somewhat less powerful. In 1872 the baths were 
visited by upwards of 13,000 patients. 

The Elisenbrunnen (PI. 14), erected in 1824 and named after 
the Queen Dowager of Prussia, is used for drinking. In the interior 
is placed a bust of that queen by Tieck. A band plays in the new 
Curgarten, at the back of the colonnade, 7 — 8 a. m., during the 
season. Near it is the handsome Theatre (PI. 20), in the street lead- 
ing from the station to the town, erected in 1825. 

The old Curhaus (PI. 16), on the E. side of the town, erected 
in 1782, contains ball, reading, refreshment, and other rooms (adm. 
5 Sgr.), open from 10 (reading-room from 8) a. m. to 10 p. m. ; 
the new Cursaal, opened in 1863 , adjoins it. Music in the garden 
3-41/2 P. m. 

The open space in front of the Rhenish Station (PI. C, 5), near 
St. Mary's Church mentioned above, is embellished with the* War- 
rior's Monument, erected by subscription in 1872 to the memory 
of natives of Aix-Ia-Chapelle and the neighbourhood who fell in the 
campaigns of 1866 and 1870 — 71. The dying warrior, to whom an 
angel presents the palm of victory, executed in bronze, was designed 
by Drake. 

In the spacious Platz at the Templerbend, near the Aachen and 
Mastricht Station, is situated the Rhenish-Westphalian * Polytech- 
nic (PI. 17), designed by Cremer, and erected in 1865—70. 

Between the Cologne and Sandkaul Gates rises the imposing 
Mariahllf Hospital, built in 1850, with pleasant grounds, and under 



8 Route 1. 



AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. 



From Brussels 



the care of Sisters of Charity. InthePromenaden-Strasse is the new 
Synagogue, in the modern Oriental style. 

Connoisseurs of art are recommended to visit the small, but 
choice Picture Gallery of Herr Suermond , Adalbert-Str. 55 , who 
readily admits strangers on application. 

Burtscheid, or Bo rcette (St. Charles; Rosenbad; * Schwertbad), 
connected with Aix-la-Chapelle by a series of new buildings, is also 
celebrated for its baths. The Kochbrunnen (156° Fahr.) and other 
warm springs form the ' Warm Brook' , separated by a footpath from 
the 'Cold Brook? , both of which unite in the Warm Pond, M. 
from Burtscheid. 

The *Lousberg (PI. A, B, 1), a wooded eminence 200 ft. in 
height, ascended in 40 min. from the Rhenish station, and in Y4 
hr. from the Pont-Thor, is laid out in grounds and shady walks. 
The summit, on which an Obelisk rises , commands a fine survey of 
the busy town and the wooded, undulating environs ; to the E. lies 
the rich, grassy Soersthal, with numerous country residences and 
coal-mines. The white Wallfalirtskirche (pilgrims' church) , on the 
adjacent Salvatorberg, is a conspicuous object. 

The Frankenburg, 1 M. E. of the Rhenish Station, was once a 
hunting-seat of Charlemagne. The ancient ivy-grown tower belongs 
to the original building, but the prin ipal part, lately restored, dates 
from 1642. The pond surrounding the castle was once a large lake, 
in which, according to tradition, the magic ring of Fastrada (p. 103), 
the last wife of Charlemagne, was sunk , and attracted the monarch 
to this spot, where he sat for days gazing on the lake and mourning 
for his lost consort. 

About 3 |4 M. farther in the same direction is Trimborn, a grove where 
a Roman legion-stone and a gigantic sarcophagus were discovered. The 
artificial ruin at the entrance is constructed of the fragments of a chapel 
of the time of Charlemagne. 

A marble monument on the Treves road, a few min. walk to the S. 
of the town, marks the spot where the three monarchs met in 1S18 to ex- 
press their gratitude for the victory of Leipsic. On the hill near it rises 
the turreted modern Prison in the Gothic style. 

The promenades of the Carlshohe, 3 |4 M. from Ronheide (station on the 
line towards Belgium), afford the finest view of Aix-la-Chapelle. 

i^ear the Geul-Viaduct (on the line towards Belgium, 3 3 |4 M. to the 
S. W. of Aix-la-Chapelle) stands the ancient castle of Emmaburg , from 
which Eginhard, the private secretary of Charlemagne, is said to have 
abducted the princess Emma. The neighbouring cadmia mines and zinc 
foundries of the Vieille Montagne Company are in the parish of Moresnet, 
which is neutral ground belonging to Prussia and Belgium in common. 

Cornelimiinster, with the handsome buildings of the suppressed Abbey, 
situated 6 M. to the S.E. of Aix-la-Chapelle in the picturesque valley of 
the In de, at the foot of the Hohe-Veen, on the Treves road, is a favourite 
point for excursions. 

Railway to Cologne. Few lines exhibit such varied forms 
of. railway engineering as that between the Belgian frontier and 
Cologne. On leaving the station of Aix-la-Chapelle the train crosses 
a Viaduct 308 yds. in length, and passes the Frankenburg (to the r., 
see above); it then passes through the Nirmer Tunnel (Y^'M-)? * ra ~ 



to Cologne. 



DUREN. 



1. Route. 9 



verses the Reichshusch wood, and stops at the Kambacher Milhle, the 
station for Stollberg (Hissel; Welter), a prosperous town with 
10,087 inhab., with an old chateau supposed to have once been a 
hunting seat of Charlemagne. 

The mines of Stollberg and its environs were first worked in the 17th 
century by Protestants banished from France and Aix-la-Chapelle. The 
principal products of the district are zinc, lead, and silver $ there are also 
numerous manufactories , the coal consumed by which is found in abun- 
dance in the neighbourhood. Probably no other locality in Germany ex- 
hibits so many branches of industry within so small a space. The number 
of workmen employed in these establishments is upwards of 12,000, and 
the annual value of the zinc, lead, silver, and coals yielded by the mines 
exceeds 450,000?. 

The train now traverses a most picturesque district, with nu- 
merous coal-mines and foundries. 

Stat. Eschweiler (Raisin), a manufacturing town (15,550 inhab.), 
possesses a pinnacled old chateau converted into a hospital. Farther 
on, to the 1. near Nothberg, rises an ancient castle with four towers. 
The pottery village of Langerwehe , on the hill-side , now comes in 
sight. On the hills to the r. are several villages , among which is 
Werth, the supposed birthplace of the celebrated Imperial general 
John of Werth (d. 1651), who gained many victories over the 
French and Swedes in the Thirty Years' War, and in 1636 even 
penetrated as far as Paris. The blue mountains in the distance to 
the r. are the spurs of the Eifel. 

At the base of the wooded heights of the Hochwald on the 
N. lies the village of Merode, with a handsome old turreted cha- 
teau, the seat of a wealthy Belgian family, dating from the 13th 
cent. , and containing a gallery of family portraits extending back to 
the 12th cent. The Roer is now crossed. 

Stat. Diiren {Hotel Mommer, at the station), the Ma rcodurum of 
Tacitus, a busy manufacturing town, with 12,850 inhab., is situated 
in a fertile plain on the Roer. The Blind Asylum here was erected 
by subscription in 1842. 

The Valley of the Roer presents some very picturesque points above 
Kreuzau , a village 2 M. to the S. of Diiren, on the road to Nideggen. 
Pedestrians here diverge to the r. from the road and ascend the valley, 
which gradually contracts and is bounded by lofty sandstone rocks, to 
{}\\ hr.) Winden, (^2 hr.) Unter-Maubach, (^4 hr.) Ober-Maubach, and thence 
by a somewhat fatiguing route to (l 1 ^ hr.) Nideggen (Post), situated on a 
rock rising precipitously from the Roer, and crowned with the conspicuous 
ruins of a castle dating from 1180, which was once a favourite residence 
of the Counts of Julich. By the high road , Nideggen lies 10 M. from 
Diiren (diligence daily). Following the. valley beyond Nideggen, the tra- 
veller next reaches (^2 hr.) Abenden, (20 min.) Blens, (20 min.) Hansen, and 
the strikingly picturesque village of Heimbach (Post) with the in igni- 
ficant ruin of Hengebach, whence the railway station Ziilpich (p. 124) may 
be reached by diligence in 2 3 |4 hrs. — The finest point in the valley of 
the Roer is Montjoie (Hembach) , 23 M. above Heimbach, magnificently 
situated in a rocky ravine, and enhanced by two ruined castles. 
■ From Diiren to Neuss railway in OJ4 hr. (fares 40, 30, 20 Sgr.) 
Near stat. Bedburg , the seat of an academy for the sons of the Rhenish 
nobility, the line enters the fertile plain of the Erft (see below), which 
it traverses as far as Neuss (p. 32). 



10 Monte 2. 



ROTTERDAM. 



From D ii re si to Treves (Eifel Railway), see R. 23. Branch line 
from Diiren to Glad bach in course of construction. 

Stat. Horrem lies in the luxuriant vale of the Erft . which 
abounds with seats of the Rhenish nobility. To the L. the chateaux 
of Frenz and Hemmersbach , or Horrem. The valley of 'the Erft is 
soon quitted by the Konigsdorf tunnel. 1 M. in length. Then 

Stat. Konigsdorf. to the r. beyond winch c in the distance' is the 
village of Brauweiler . with an ancient Benedictine Abbey, now a 
reformatory. The old Abbey Church, erected in the 13th cent. , in 
the late Romanesque style . contains a remarkable engraved tomb- 
stone of the 15th cent., and some ancient frescoes on the vaulting 
of the chapter-house, both valuable in the history of art. 

\s Cologne is approached the line traverses a fertile plain, 
studded with detached houses and factories. The hills to the r. 
are spurs of the Vorgebirge. a low range which begins on the 
1. bank of the Rhino between Cologne and Bonn. Cologne, seo 
R. 3. 

2. From Rotterdam to Cologne. 

Comp. Map. p. 32. 

Railway (.1) by Utrecht. Zevenaar. Emmerich. Oberhausen . and 
T)n^?eldorf : (2) by L'trecht . Zevenaar. Cleve . and Crefeld. Express by 
both lines in ?3' 4 hr«. : fares 14 florins 30 cents. 10 fl. 50 c. , 7 fl. 54 c. 
Examination of luggage at the Prussian custom-house at Elten. (The Dutch 
florin, or guilder, is of nearly the same value as the S. German, viz. is. 8tf.. 
and is divided into 100 cents.) 

Steamboats daily (those of the Diisseldorf Co. correspond thre<» 
time? weekly with steamers of the General Steam Nav. Co. from London; 
those of the Netherlands Co. with the -Batavier* once weekly) in 30 hrs. : 
fares 4 fl. 42 c. or 3 fl. : 100 lbs. of luggage free. Prussian custom-house 
at Emmerich. 

Rotterdam.". Hotels. *Urw Bath Hotel, near the steamboat - pier, 
R. V - 2 . D. l^fl.. A. 40 c: *Pats Bas. in the Korte Hoogstraat: ^Lucas 
and ^Oelschlager. both in the Hoogstraat. 

Fiacre, or Vigilante, per drive without luggage. L — 4 pers.,jB0 c. : per 
hr. 1* i fl. The Rhenish Railway Station i* not far from th* 1 steamboat- 
quay. Omnibus to or from the hotels 25 c. 

Ensrlish Church, and a Presbuteriaji Church, both in the Haringyliet. 

Rotterdam, with J 18.83? inhab. P/ 3 Rom. Oath.. 3000 Jews), 
the second commercial town in Holland, is situated on the r. bank 
of the Mam. about i'2 M. from the German Ocean. It is intersected 
by numerous canals (graehten. or havens), which give the town a very 
picturesque appearance, such as the Leuvehaven . Oude Haven, 
Nieuwe Haven. S cheepmaker shaven : Wijnhaven, Blaak. &u&Haring- 
rliet. The three first are properly speaking arms of the Maas. The 
numerous drawbridges fophaalbrug ) afford communication between 
the various quarters of the town. 

A huge dyke or embankment runs through the centre of the 
town, protecting the lower quarters (Binnenstad) from inundation 



t For a fuller description of the following Dutch towns Batd'i>-r\ ? 
'gium 0"d Holland. 



UTRECHT, 



2, Route. 11 



during high tide. The Hoogstraat, or high street, is built upon this 
dyke; and the finest part of the town, the Buitenstad , is situated 
between this street and the Maas. 

About 2500 sea-going vessels annually enter and quit the port, 
and the traffic with the Upper Rhine by means of barges , towed by 
powerful tug-steamers, is very considerable. Rotterdam also contains 
a number of manufactories, distilleries, etc. 

There is little here to detain the traveller, whose leisure had 
better be devoted to a walk on the busy quay (Boompjes), or to the 
inspection of the Church of St. Lawrence (Groote Kerk). The latter, 
a Gothic structure of brick, dating from 1472 , contains the monu- 
ment of Admiral de Witt and other celebrated Dutchmen. Those 
who hav e a day at their disposal are recommended to spend it at the 
Hague (by railway in 3 / 4 hr., station 1 V4 M . from the Boompjes ; see 
Baedeker's Belgium and Holland). 

The district traversed by the railway is perfectly flat, lying con- 
siderably below the level of the sea, which is excluded by means of 
carefully constructed dykes and embankments. Canals, pasture-land, 
and occasional windmills are the principal features of the scenery. 
The first station of importance is 

Gouda (or Ter Qouuf), on the Yssel, with 15,776 inhab. 
Bricks ( l kUnkers , J. clay-pipes , and cheese are the staple commo- 
dities. The principal church (Jans Kerk) contains some fine old 
stained glass. 

Utrecht (* Pays Bus ; * Oude Kasteel, etc. 5 Hotel de la Station, 
at the station) , the 'Oude Trecht 1 or old ford, the Trajectum ad 
Rhenum, and afterwards Ultra Trajectum of the Romans, is one of 
the most ancient towns in Holland (popul. 60,999). It belonged at 
one time to Lorraine , then to the German Empire , and was fre- 
quently the residence of the emperors. Here in 1579 the union of 
the seven provinces Holland , Zealand, Utrecht, Guelders , Over- 
Yssel, Friesland , and Groningen was effected, and William I. of 
Orange was created stadtholder. In 1672 Louis XIV. took possession 
of the town and levied an enormous contribution. The well 
known Peace of Utrecht, by which the Spanish War of Succession 
was terminated, was concluded here in April, 1713. — The Rhine 
is here divided into arms, the Old Rhine, which falls into the Ger- 
man Ocean near Katwyk , and the Vecht , which falls into the 
Zuider Zee. 

Utrecht was celebrated at a very early period for its fine 
churches, the most interesting of which is the Cathedral, 
founded in 720. The University, founded in 1636, is attended by 
500 students. 

Beyond Utrecht the line crosses the canal (Rynvaart) which 
unites the town with the Lek. Pleasant retrospect of Utrecht. To 
the r. and 1. four intrenchments (lunettes), now of no importance, 
are observed. The district is fertile and well - cultivated, At stat. 



12 Route 2. 



ARNHEIM. 



From Rotterdam 



Zeisi-Brielergen there is a Moravian colony ; then stat. Maarshergen, 
and Veenendaal. with numerous apiaries. The line intersects the 
extensive moor of the Yeluwe. which extends as far as the Zuider 
Zee. Stat. Wolfttezen. then 

Arnheini Zen. outside the N.W. gate, nearest the rail. stat. 
and the pier of the Netherlands Co. : * Zwynshoofd (boars head), in 
the town: *Bellevue: * Pays-Bas. near the pier of the Dusseldorf 
Co. : * de Paauic . not far from the station. 2nd el.], pop. 31.792 
(V2R° m - Cath.). long the seat of the Dukes of Guelders . is still 
the capital of that province. An ancient proverb describes the in- 
habitants as : 'Hoog van moed . klein van goed . een zwaard in de 
hand, is 't wapen van Gelderland (literally: High of mood, poor in 
goods . sword in hand . is the escutcheon of Guelderland). The 
town, situated on the S. slope- of the Yeluwe. was re-fortified after 
Lis capture by the French in 1672. In 1813 the French, who again 
occupied it. were expelled by the Prussians. 

Although a good specimen of a clean Dutch town, it offers little 
to detain the traveller. The Groote Kerk ('great church") contains 
monuments of Dukes of Guelders. The Town Hall derives its local 
appellation of Duivelshuis ('devil's house 1 ) from the grotesque figures 
which adorn it. 

The environs far surpass those of any other Dutch town. The 
estate of * Hartjesherg deserves a visit (entrance near the rail. stat.. 
1 2 M. N. of the town). The grounds are open to the public: the 
traveller . however . should apply to the custodian at the lodge for 
access to the Belvedere, the prospect from which amply repays the 
ascent. 

Immediately below the town is the Rehberg . a slight eminence 
with pleasure - grounds. Higher up is the country-seat Heidenoord 
(or 'de Koepet . = cupola) : in the adjoining wood are walks and 
benches in all directions. In the opposite direction. 3 M. to the 
E. of Arnheini. lies the flourishing village of Velp, the hills near 
which are studded with villas. — Railway to Zutphen and Salz- 
bergen see Baedeker's X. Germany. 

Stat. Zevenaar is the Dutch . stat. Elten the Prussian frontier- 
station. Hence, crossing the Rhine, to Cleve and Cologne, see 
R. 4. 

The line by Emmerich and Dusseldorf to Cologne remains on the 
right bank. 

Emmerich (Hotel Royal] Niederland. Hof: Bahnhof -Hotel , all 
at the station: HoUdndischer Hof. and several others, on the Rhine. 
1 HE. from the station), the frontier town of Prussia, is a clean Dutch 
looking town. At the upper end rises the Gothic spire of the Aide- 
gundis-Kirche. at the lower is the Minister . in the transition style 
of the 11th and 12th cent. The latter contains a memorial stone 
to Duke Gerhard of Schleswig and Holstein . who died here while 
on a journey in 1433. After the death of his brother and successor 



to Cologne. DUSSELDORF. 2. Route. 13 

Adolph In 1459 the duchies eame into the possession of Denmark, 
but were re-united with Germany after the war of 1864. 
Stat. Empel, then 

Wesel (* Dornbusch ; Qebauer\ Oiesen) , strongly fortifiecl , with 
17,075 inhab., is situated at the confluence of the Rhine and Lippe. 
The handsome Rathhaus, lately restored, and embellished with mo- 
dern statues on the facade, dates from 1396. St. Willibrord's Church 
contains a marble tablet recording that Peregrine Bertie , son of 
Willoughby d'Eresby and Catharine, Duchess of Suffolk, was born 
here in 1555. The exiles were Protestants, who had fled from the 
persecutions of Queen Mary, and were permitted by the magistrates 
of Wesel to take up their quarters in the church , then unoccupied. 

Stations Dinslaken , Sterkrade (with the extensive foundry and 
engine-factory of Messrs. Jacobi, Haniel, & Huyssen) , and Ober- 
hausen , junction of the lines to Berlin and to Aix - la - Chapelle 
(R. 5) ; then stat. Duisburg (p. 36), junction of the line to Bochum 
and Dortmund (R. 6), and finally Grossenbaum and Calcum. 

Diisseldorf. *European Hotel, at the station, R. 20, L>. 20, B. 10, 

A. 5 Sgr. — *Breidenbacher Hof ; * Kolnischer Hof ; in these R. 15—20, 

B. 8, D. 20, A. 5 Sgr. — *R6mischer Kaiser, moderate; Hotel Hellen- 
thal; Drei Reichskronen ; all in the town. *Stelzmann, opposite the 
Cologne Station. 

Restaurants. *Rail. Restaurant at the Cologne-Minden station; pStelz- 
mann , opposite the station ; Tholen, near the Lambertikirche ; Thiirnagel, 
Elberfelder-Str. ; Seulen in the Carlsplatz ; Rail. Restaurant at the Elber- 
feld station; *Stadtische Tonhalle, Schadow-Str. — Beer : Krautstein, in the 
Exereierplatz ; Germer, in the Carlsplatz; Schnorr, near Hotel Hellenthal ; 
*Ahmer, next to the Rom. Kaiser; Delvaux, Alexanderplatz ; Memminger, 
by the winter- harbour. — Cafes. Geissler , Mittel-Strasse , and in summer 
on the Ananasberg in the Hofgarten ; Jungius, Burgplatz 11. 

Cabs. Per drive 5 Sgr., i| 2 hr. 10, 1 hr. 15 Sgr. 

^Picture Galleries. /Schulte, Allee-Str. 42; Bismeyer & Kraus , Elber- 
felder Str. 

English Church Service in the smaller Prot. Church, Berger-Strasse. 

Diisseldorf, the capital of district of that name, with 69,351 in- 
hab., lies on the r. bank of the Rhine at the influx of the Dilssel- 
bach. It is a well-built , pleasant town of comparatively modern 
origin. At the beginning of the 15th cent, it was chosen as a re- 
sidence by the Dukes of Berg, and on their becoming extinct in 
1609 it continued to be the residence of the Princes Palatine till 
1716, when they transferred their seat to Mannheim, and afterwards 
to Munich. Under Joachim Murat (1806—8) , and Napoleon (1808 
— 13), Diisseldorf continued to be the capital of the Duchy of Berg; 
in 1815 it became Prussian. 

Diisseldorf is now a manufacturing and commercial place of con- 
siderable importance, but is chiefly celebrated as the Rhenish cradle 
of art. The School of Painting (PI. 2) , conducted in 1822—26 by 
Cornelius, down to 1860 by Schadow and in 1860 — 68 by Bende- 
mann , occupies one of the wings of the old Electoral Palace. 
The institution was seriously damaged by a conflagration in March, 
1872. 



14 Route 2. DI'SSELDOKF. From Rotterdam 

The once celebrated Diisseldorf Gallery of old masters , founded 
at the beginning of the 18th cent., was taken to Munich during the 
unsettled times of 1805 by Maximilian Joseph, king of Bavaria, 
under pretext of ensuring their safety. The town has been unable 
to recover them , and they now form the most valuable part of the 
collection in the Old Pinakothek. 

The court of the palace is embellished with a marble Statue of 
Elector John William, who was born at Diisseldorf (d. 1716). An 
* Equestrian Statue of the same prince, in bronze, by Grupello. 
stands in the Market Place (PI. C. 4) 

The church of St. Andrew (PI. 9), completed in 1629, contains 
seseral modern pictures, and in a separate hall of the choir the 
embalmed remains of several electors, princes, and princesses. St. 
Lambert (PI. 15). in the transition style of the 14th cent., contains 
a marble monument to the last two dukes of Cleve and Berg, erected 
in 1629. On one of theN. pillars is the tombstone of the celebrated 
Vcetius (d. 1675). The Maximilian (formerly Franciscan) Church 
(PI. 16) contains a fresco of the Crucifixion with side -scenes, exe- 
cuted by Settegast in 1844. 

The spacious and handsome hall of the Kealschule . or commer- 
cial school, is adorned with * frescoes by Bendemann allegoric-ally 
representing Art, Science, Commerce, and Industry. 

The Tonhalle (PI. 8), Schadow-Strasse , contains the Stadtische 
h'emaldesammlung. or picture-gallery, of modern Diisseldorf artists. 

13. Cornelius, The Wise and Foolish Virgins, one of master's earliest 
works (1813):, 1. 2. 3. 4. Andr. Achenbach. Landscapes; 5. Osw. Achenbach. 
Funeral at Palestrina:, 8. Bator, Christian martyrs? 9. C. Begets, Bloses 
exposed by his mother; 11. Camphausen, Frederick the Great; 15. Hasen- 
elever. Tasting the wine ; 16. Hildebrondt, Portrait of the Antwerp painter 
Wappers; 20. Jordan. The hrst born; 21. Knaus, Card sharpers: 22. Kbh- 
ler, Hagar and Ishmael ; 23. Lessing , Landscape; 24. Mintrop . Holy Fa- 
mily; 26. C. Midler. Annunciation; 27. Niessen . 29 . 30. Roeting, Portraits; 
31. Salentin, Village sermon; 32. 33. 34. Schirmer, Landscapes; 35. Schived- 
ter, Don Quixote and Dulcinea of Toboso ; 37. Sohn, Tasso and the two 
Eleanors; 39. Tidemand. Meeting of Haugianists (a Norwegian sect.). 

The Schadow-Platz is adorned with a colossal Bust of Schadoir 
(p. 13) in "bronze, designed by Wittig. — The celebrated painter 
Cornelius (d. 1867) was born in the Kurzen - Strasse . and the poet 
Heine (d. 1856) in the Bolker-Strasse. 

The Hall of Assize in the new Courts of Justice in the Konigs- 
Platz (PI. C , 2) contains Schadov/s last large oil-painting, repre- 
senting Paradise. Hell, and Purgatory, presented by Frederick 
William IV. 

The handsome new Post-Office (PI. 19) near the rail, stations, is 
in the Florentine palatial style : the black marble pillars which sup- 
port the steps were brought from the Neanderthal. 8M. E. 

The *Hofgarten (PI. 11), laid out in 1769, and subsequently 
extended, affords delightful walks. A black marble column here 
bears a bust of Queen Stephanie of Portugal, a princess of Hohen- 
zollern (d. 1860). — The Jagerhof (Pi. A), near which . to the r. 



MCLHEIM. 



'2. Route. 15 



of the great avenue is a statue of Weyhe, by whom the grounds were 
originally laid out, is now the residence of the Prince of Hohen- 
zollern. — The neighbouring Jacobts Garten, at Pempelfort , to- 
wards the S.E. once belonged to the philosopher Fried. Hein. Jacobi 
(d. 1819) , and was a favourite resort of Goethe, Herder, and other 
savants of the day. it now belongs to the Malkasten , a society of 
artists. 

]Near Diisseldorf there are several excellent Protestant institutions. 
Diisselthal, formerly a Trappist monastery, situated to the X.E. of Pem- 
pelfort, i 1 ^ M. from the town, is now an establishment for homeless 
children, 180 — 200 of whom are here educated. Connected with it is a 
seminary for teachers of the poor. 

The" ancient town of Kaiserswerth (Rhe nischer Hof), on the Rhine. 
6 M. from Diisseldorf , 2^2 M. from Calcum (p. 13), is the seat of similar 
charitable institutions on a much larger scale , founded by the Prot. 
pastor Fliedner in 1836, comprising a hospital (500 — 600 patients), a 
training school for Prot. Sisters of Charity, Governesses' institution, or- 
phan asylum, etc. 

The old Romanesque Church of Kaiserswerth, of the 12th or 13th cent., 
contains an admirably executed * Reliquary of the 13th cent., in which the 
bones of St. Suitbertus , an Irishman who first preached the Gospel here 
in 710, are preserved. Of the palace from which the young Emp. 
Henry IV. was carried off in 1064 in a vessel belonging to his austere 
guardian Archbishop Anno (p. 41) nothing is now left but a few fragments, 
called the 'Konigsburg\ 

Railway to Cologne. Beyond stat. Benralh, among the trees 
to the r. stands a handsome royal Palace erected 1756 — 60 by Elec- 
tor Palatine Charles. Beyond stat. Lang en f eld the line crosses the 
W upper , passes Count Fiirstenberg's chateau of Reuschenberg (1.), 
and at Kilppersteg crosses the Dliun. The Rhine is approached at 
Mulheim (Bergischer Hof) , a wealthy , manufacturing town, with 
i0,684 inhab., which owes its prosperity to Protestant citizens who 
emigrated from Cologne in the 17th cent. 5 handsome modern Gothic 
church near the station. — To Elberfeld, see R. 7, 

From Mulheim to B e r g is ch- G I adb a ch branch-railway in l \i hr. 
(7 1 j4, 6, 4 Sgr.). One of the finest existing Gothic edifices, similar in plan 
to the Cologne Cathedral, is the church of the suppressed Cistercian abbey 
of *Altenberg, founded in 1255, consecrated in 1379. This magnificent 
fabric, situated in the Dhunthal, 6 M. X. of Gladbach , was judiciously 
restored by Frederick William IV., by whose ancestors, the Counts Adolpii 
and Eberhard vom Berge, the abbey was founded in 1133. Several mem- 
bers of the family are interred here. 

Below Mulheim, on the Rhine, lies Schloss Stammhehn, the ie- 
bidence of Count Fiirstenberg , containing an extensive collection 
of engravings and portraits. The train now intersects the fortification* 
of Deutz (p. 31). The ordinary trains stop here, while the express 
crosses the railway-bridge to Cologne. 

S teambo at from Diisseldorf to Cologne tedious, although 
several places on the banks possess historical interest. 

3. Cologne. 

Railway Stations. 1. Central /Station (PI. 3) at Cologne, fur all the 
trains of the Rhenish Railway (to Bonn . Cobleuz . Mayence, to Aix-la- 



16 Route 3. 



COLOGNE. 



Music. 



Chapelle and Belgium, to Crefeld and Cleve), and for the express trains of 
the Koln-Minden (R. 2) line. — 2. Koln-Minden Station at Deutz, on 
the opposite bank of the Rhine, near the railway-bridge, for the ordinary 
trains of the Koln-Minden line and for all the trains of the Koln-Giessen 
railway (R. 8 ; connection of the Left Rhenish with the Right Rhenish 
railway, R. 11). — 3. Bergisch Mdrlcisch Station at Deutz, outside the Feld- 
thor on the Rhine (p. 32), for all the trains of the lines of that name. — 
An Omnibus (4 Sgr.) runs from the Central Station at Cologne in con- 
nection with the trains starting from the last named station. 

Hotels. At Cologne: * Hotel du Nord (PI. h), near the railway-bridge; 

* Hotel Disch (PI. a), Briicken-Str. ; *Mainzer Hof (PI. b), Glockengasse; 

* Victoria (PL g), in the Heumarkt; * Hotel Ernst. Trankgasse 3, be- 
tween the station and the cathedral; * Wiener Hof (PI. c), Glockengasse; 
Hotel de Hollaxde (PI. d). on the Rhine. All these are of the first 
class: R. from 20, B. 10, D. 20 Sgr. to 1 Thlr., A. 6—10 Sgr. — *H6tel du 
Dome (PI. s), in the Domhof, Xo. 79: *Kleff, Trankgasse, between the 
station and the cathedral ; Russischer Hof (PI. g), Friedrich-Wilhelni-Str. ; 
Hotel de Cologne (PI. e) on the Rhine: *H6tel de Paris (PI. k), Drusus- 
ga^se ; Strassburger Hof, in the Hof, near the cathedral ; *Laacher Hof 
(PI. i), Mauritius-Steinweg. Average charges in these: R. and B. 20 — 25, 
D. 15 — 20, A. 5 Sgr. — Europaischer Hof, Comcedien-Str. 1, near the 
cathedral: Billstein, Friedrich- \Vilhelm-Str. 8, near the bridge of boats; 
Picht, Trankgasse ; Hilgers, Hoch-Str. 27, in the Augustiner-Platz ; *Ber- 
gischer Hof, Thurrn-Markt, near the bridge of boats. These last are all 
moderate. 

At Deutz: *Bellevue (PI. n). R. from 20, B. 10, A. 5 Ser. ; *Prlnz 
Carl (PI. o), R. 20 Sgr. 

Restaurants at the three railway stations. * Gertrudenhof, handsome- 
ly fitted up and decorated (theatrical performances daily in winter, 10 Sgr.); 
^Reichard . Herzog-Str. 10; Simon, Comcedien-St. 8; Picht, Trankgasse, 
near the station ; Hotel Kleff, see above ; Woehrmann. Minoriten ; *Johnen, 
Breite^Str. 36: *Berzdorf. Martin-Str. — Beer. * Werny , Salomonsgasse 
18, between the Rathhaus and Hoch-Str., dinner 15 Sgr.; * Horn, Hof 12; 
^Fischer, in the arcade near the Hoch-Str. (PI. F, 5) ; Kehl, Elogius-Platz 
5; Schm itz, Herzog-Str. 7; Simons, Muhlenbach, near the Heumarkt, and 
many others. — Oysters, <fec. at ^Bettger^s (PI. r) , Kleine Budengasse 6; 
Pommer , Breite-Str. 155. — Cafes. * Hosier , Oben-Marspforten , also the 
best confectioner in Cologne; Cafe du Dome, at the hotel of that name; 

* Fischer, in the arcade near the Hoch-Str.; Borse, in the middle of the 
Heumarkt. 

Places of Recreation. A military band generally plays on summer 
evenings in the gardens of the Bellevue and Prinz Carl hotels at Deutz, 
which afford a good view of Cologne and the busy traffic on the river 
and the bridge of boats. Concerts daily and an open air theatre in sum- 
mer at * Moslems Tivoli, near the Thiirmchen, at the X. end of the town. 
The Bayenhaus at the S. end of the town , on the Rhine , is another fa- 
vourite resort. — The * Zoological Garden and Flora, see below. Briihl 
(p. 110) also attracts numerous visitors. 

Theatres. Stadt- Theater, G-lockengasse (only in winter). Thalia- Thea- 
ter, Schildergasse. Gertrudenhof (p. 16). Moslers Tivoli, see above. 

Music. Cologne has of late years become one of the most musical 
places in Germany. The Giirzenich Concerts (p. 27; seats in the body of 
the hall 1 Thlr.. in the gallery 15 Sgr., the latter often oppressively hot), 
usually ten in number, which annually take place in winter, have attain- 
ed a justly merited celebrity, owing to the admirable choice of the music, 
as well as to the number and skill of the performers. These concerts 
are conducted by Dr. Hiller , the director of the Conservatoire of Music. 
The latter, founded in 1851, is supported partly by the city, and partly 
by private subscription, and has numbered among its directors some of the 
most talented musicians of Germany. Another institution which ^ has 
earned a high reputation is the Mdnner-Gesangverein, or Men's Vocal Society, 
conducted by F. Weber , by which admirable concert^ are also given. 
Amateurs of music should endeavour to obtain an introduction to the Mu- 



COLOGNE. 



3. Route. 17 



sikalische Gesellschaft, or to the Philharmonische Gesellschaft, societies wliieli 
meet, on Saturdays at 7. 30 p. m. , the former in the Glockengasse No. 13, 
the latter in the Giirzenich. 

* Diorama (PI. 8), Wolfs-Str. 5, near the Neumarkt (p. 29), adm. 10, 
on Sundays and holidays 5 Sgr. 

* Botanical Garden of the Flora Society, adjoining the Zoological Gar- 
den, see p. 31. Adm. 10, on Sundays 5 Sgr. It contains an Aquarium 
(5 Sgr.) and a good restaurant. 

* Zoological Garden, l \? M. below the town, nearly opposite to Mulheim 
(p. 15), see p. 31. Adm. 10, on Sundays 5 Sgr. \ military music on Wed- 
nesday afternoons (4 — 8 o'clock). Omnibuses and steamers (see below) ply 
between the town and the gardens (restaurant). 

Baths. Warm at Siegers, Schildergasse 72 (also Russian baths, &e.), 
and in the floating bath-establishment , entered from the bridge. Cold 
baths (6 Sgr.) in the Rhine, below the Trankgasse , at the back of the 
Rheinau , and at the Bayenthurm; also on the r. bank, below the garden 
of the 'Bellevue'' in Deutz, near which are the Swimming-Baths (5 Sgr.). 

Steamboats, see Introduction. The piers are near the bridge of boats, 
between the Rheingassen-Thor and the Friedrich-Wilhelms-Thor (comp. 
PL E , 6). Local Steamers ply frequently between Cologne and Mulheim 
(p. 15; 1st class 2 1 | l 2 Sgr.), starting from the bridge of boats, and touching 
at St. Cunibert and near the Zoological and Flora gardens (p. 31). 

Post-Office (PI. 24), Glockengasse 25—27. Branch offices for letters 
and parcels only in the E. wing of the Central Station, at 41 Mohren-Str., 
and at 13 Malzmiihle. — Telegraph Office, Csecilien-Str. 4. — Police Office 
(PI. 23), Glockengasse 30. — Royal Bank (PI. 2), Georg-Str. 7. — Cologne 
Private Bank, Agrippa-Str. 20 } Schaajfhausen Bank, Unter-Sachsenhausen 8. 

Cabs. 1—2 pers. 5, 3 pers. 7^2, 4 pers. 10 Sgr. for each drive within 
the town, or to the station. To Deutz at the same charges , with the ad- 
dition of 7^2 Sgr. for bridge-toll. To the Zoological or Flora garden, 1 — 2 
pers. 7^2, 3—4 pers. 12^2 Sgr. — By time: per i{ 2 hr., 1—2 pers. Vfa 3—4 
pers. 10 Sgr. Before 7 a. m. and after 10 p. m. 5 Sgr. more than the 
above fares is charged. 

Omnibuses run from the Waidmarkt to the N. end of the town (l 1 ^ Sgr.), 
and thence to the Zoological and Flora gardens (2 Sgr.)-, also from the 
Wallrafs-Platz to Nippes every hour } from the beginning of the Ehren- 
Strasse and from the end of the Minoriten - Str. to the Ehrenfeld} and 
from the Central Station to the Bergisch Markisch Station at Deutz in 
connection with the trains (comp. p. 16). 

Porterage from the steamboat to a cab for 1 — 2 packages 1 Sgr. , for 
each additional package l \ 2 Sgr. For a hand-cart into the town, with luggage 
not exceeding 3 cwt., 7 Sgr. 

Eau de Cologne. The best is manufactured by the firm of Johann 
Maria Farina, opposite the Jiilichs-Platz } also excellent at Hochstrasse 129, 
Jiilichs-Platz 4, &c. 

Objects of Art and curiosities of all kinds are sold by Heberle, Grosse 
Budengasse. 

Industrial Exhibition, Glockengasse 3-, adm. 2^2 Sgr. 

English Church Service, by a resident chaplain, at No. 8 Rheingasse. 

Principal Attractions, where time is limited: Cathedral, interior, and 
walk round the external choir-gallery (p. 19) } £7. Gereon (exterior, p. 29, 
PL 36)^ Church of the Apostles (exterior, p. 28, PL 30)} St. Maria im 
Capitol (interior, p. 27, PL 40)} Giirzenich (p. 27, PL 15)} Facade of the 
Town-Hall (p. 26, PL 26)} Museum (p. 24, PL 45)} Iron Bridge (p. 24). 

Two Days. The above-mentioned churches 7— 10 a. m. * Wallraf- 
Richarz Museum (p. 24), and Diorama (p. 29, PL 8) in the forenoon. In 
the afternoon the ** Cathedral , Archiepiscopal Museum, walk along the 
Rhine, cross the bridges, and visit the Zoological and Botanical Gar- 
dens (pp. 19, 31). The principal churches, &c. may be most conveniently 
visited as follows: glance at the Cathedral (p. 19, PL 9)} St. Cunibert 
(p. 31, PL 33)} St. Ursula (p. 30, PL 49) -, Jesuits" (p. 30, PL 20)} St. An- 
dreas (p. 30, PL 29)} through the Comodien-Sti-asse (1. Courts of Justice t 
PL 21} 1. Arsenal, PL 54} r. Government Buildings, PL 27} 1. Romaa 

Baedeker's Rhine. 5th Edit. 2 



1 S Route 3. 



COLOGNE. 



History. 



Tower, p. 25); *8t. Gereon (p. 29, PI. 36):, * Apostles" (p. 28, PI. 30): new 
Mauritius Church (p. 29, PI. 44): across the Xeumarkt (1. the horses' heads, 
p. 29). past the Hospital (p. 28, PI. 4), to St. Peters ( P . 28, PI. 47): leav- 
ing the latter by the S. door in the Sternengasse , past Rubens'' House 
(p. 28. PI. 19) to *St. Maria (p. 27, PL 40): leave latter by the N. door 
in the Lichhof, proceed to the *Giirzenich (p. 27. PL 15): Town-HM (p. 26. 
PL 26); *St. Mart in (p. 26, PL 38): Minoritenkirche (p. 25. PL 45)-, the 
* Museum (p. 24): Synagogue (p. 26. PL 50). The very distant churches of 
St. Severin (p. 28, PL 48) and St. Pantaleon (p. 29, PL 46) then alone re- 
main to be visited. 

The names of the streets leading to the Rhine (W. to E.) are painted 
red. of those parallel to the Rhine (N. to S.) black. 

Cologne, the largest town in the Rhenish Province of Prussia, 
the seat of the supreme court of justice for the left bank of the 
Rhine . and one of the most important commercial places in Ger- 
many, is a fortress of the first class, with i'29.233 inhab.. including 
a garrison of 7000 men. It lies on the 1. bank of the Rhine , across 
which a bridge of boats and an iron bridge lead to Deutz, a town 
on the opposite bank (11,881 inhab.). From a distance, and especi- 
ally when approached by steamboat, the town with its numerous 
towers presents a very imposing appearance, but most of the streets 
are narrow, gloomy, and badly drained. Of late, however, consider- 
able improvements have been effected, a number of new and hand- 
some buildings have been erected near the central station and in 
other parts of the town, and if. as it is proposed, the girdle of forti- 
fications with which the town is encircled should be extended, new 
quarters in a superior style will rapidly spring up. The area at 
present covered by Cologne is about l 1 ^ SC L M. 

Cologne owes its foundation to the Ubii , who when hard pressed by 
the Suevi, transferred their dwellings from the r. to the 1. bank of the 
Rhine. Agrippina (daughter of Germanicus , and mother of Nero) , who 
was born here, founded a colony of Roman veterans, called Colonia Agrip- 
pinensis, afterwards Colonia Claudia Agrippina, on the site, of the present 
city. A. D. 50. The settlement soon became the Capital of Lower Germany. 
In 308 Constantine began a stone bridge over the Rhine, which connected 
Marspforten with what was then the island of St. Martin, and thence 
crossed to Deutz 5 remnants of the pillars are still seen when the river is 
low. It was destroyed at the time of the Norman invasions , and in 960 
removed by Archbishop Bruno, who caused the 1. arm of the Rhine to be 
filled up. The present Town-Hall is believed to occupy the site of the 
Praetorium of the Roman colony. 

In the 12 — 15th cent., Cologne was a flourishing commercial town, 
and transacted business extensively with London, where it possessed its 
warehouses at the Guildhall. A fair held at Cologne at Easter attracted 
visitors from all parts of Europe, and even from beyond the sea. In 1201 
it became incorporated with the Hanseatic League, and rivalled Liibeck in 
importance. The first great Hanseatic assembly was held at Cologne in 
1367, on which occasion it was resolved to declare war against the northern 
kingdoms. In 1212 it became a free town of the empire, and did homage 
to the archbishops of the district, on condition that these princes agreed 
to respect their privileges. Subsequently, however, the archbishops, who 
were continually at variance with the citizens, endeavoured to assert their 
authority over them, but were repeatedly thwarted, and the city main- 
tained its freedom, so that in 1262 Archbishop Engelbert was compelled to 
transfer his residence to Briihl , and afterwards to Bonn. Feuds between 
the nobles and the burghers, which occasioned the expulsion of a whole 
corporation of weavers in 1372, and of the Protestants in 1608, who set- 



Cathedral. 



COLOGNE. 



3. Route. 19 



proved very prej ti- 



tled at Crefeld, Elberfeld , Diisseldorf, and Miilheim, 
dicial to the city. 

Cologne, however, still ranked as the first Rhenish town, and was 
celebrated as a cradle of art. Many pictures of great merit were painted 
by masters of the old Cologne school about the end of the 14th and the 
beginning of the 15th cent. , but Meister Wilhelm (about 1380) and Meister 
Stephan Lochner (1410) are the only names of that period which have been 
handed down to us. A few of their pictures may be seen at the Cathe- 
dral (p. 23) and the Museum (p. 24); others are preserved at the Old 
Pinakothek at Munich. The numerous and handsome churches also bear 
testimony to the remarkable architectural efforts made by the citizens of 
that period. Prior to 1801, when most of them were secularised, Cologne 
possessed no fewer than 200 churches and chapels. There are now 25 
churches only, two of which are Protestant. The town likewise boasted 
of a university, founded in 1388, once celebrated as a philosophical and 
theological school \ but it afterwards declined in importance, and was fin 
ally suppressed at the close of the last century. 

* Until its occupation by the French in 1794, Cologne maintained its 
privileges as a free Imperial city, but had lost much of its ancient splen- 
dour. By the peace of Campo Formio in 1797 it became subject to France, 
and was in the Roer Department, the capital of which was Aix-la-Cha- 
pelle. In 1801 its monasteries were secularised and declared national 

property. On 14th Jan., 1814, 
the Russians took the place:, 
and shortly afterwards, when 
the town became Prussian, it 
began to recover its former 
importance. It has since 
rapidly increased in size and 
affluence, greatly owing to its 
important central situation for 
steamboat and railway traffic 
and is now one of the most 
considerable commercial cities 
in Germany. 

The ** Cathedral f , or 

Bom (PL 9), which justly 
excites the admiration of 
every beholder, and is pro- 
bably the most magnificent 
Gothic edifice in the world, 
stands on a slight eminence 
about 60 ft. above the Rhine, 
near the Central Station, and 
exactly opposite the Iron 
Bridge. As early as the 
9th century an episcopal 
church occupied this site, 
but in course of time the 
inhabitants regarded it as 
unworthy of the rapidly in- 
creasing size and prosperity of their city. The Archbishop St. Engel- 




t Travellers are recommended not to engage any of the numerous 
valet^-de-place who hover about, in and near the cathedral , as their ser- 

2* 



20 Route 3. 



COLOGNE. 



Cathedral. 



ben first entertained the project of erecting a new church here, but 
in consequence of his untimely death in 1225 (see p. 22") . his 
plan was never realised. His second successor Conrad of Hoch- 
staden atlengthlaid the foundation-stone of the present structure with 
great solemnity on 14th Aug.. 1248. The first architect is believed to 
have been Meister Gerard of Riehl (a village near Cologne), to whom 
the Chapter made a grant in 152? in recognition of his valuable 
services. 

The construction of the sacred edifice progressed slowly , chiefly 
owing to differences between the archbishops and the citizens . and 
the choir was not consecrated till 1322. The works were at length 
completely abandoned at the commencement of the 16th cent., when 
the choir only had been completed, and the tower had attained bare- 
ly two-fifths of its projected height. In 1795 the building was 
converted by the French into a hay magazine, its ruin being rendered 
more complete by the abstraction of the lead from the roof. 

The late kings of Prussia . Frederick William III. and IV.. at 
length rescued the desecrated edifice from total destruction. The 
former caused it to be examined by the eminent architect Schinkel 
in 1816, and subsequently expended 30.000^. upon its restoration. 
The entire sum expended between 1842 and 1871 amounted to 
upwards of 450. 000^ . the greater part of which was contributed 
from the royal coffers, while the remainder was collected by private 
subscriptions, societies, ^cathedral lotteries*, etc. 

The modern architects of the cathedral have ~been Ahlert^d. 18331. 
the talented Zwimer^ a thorough master of theGothic style (d. 1861 ). 
and Voigtel. 

The cathedral is a cruciform structure . the nave being flanked 
with double, and the transept with single aisles. Total length 148 
yds., breadth 67 yds., length of transepts 94 yds. . height of the 
walls 150 ft., height of the roof 201 ft. . height of the central tower 
rising over the transept 357 ft. 

The * W. Facade, which has been completed entirely in accord- 
ance with the still extant original design of the 14th cent. . with 
its two huge towers, the principal portal between them . and the 
vast middle window, is a superb example of strictly consistent Go- 
thic workmanship. The projected height of the towers is 511 ft., 
and they are intended to consist of four storeys (of which the third 



vices are unnecessary. The nave and transept with the stained-glass 
windows are open the whole day. but walking is forbidden during divine 
service (on week-days 9 — 10 a. m. and 4 — 4. 30 p. in.). The following 
are the onlv authorised fees (1 — 5 pers.) : (1). For opening the choir, 
choir-chapels, and Dombild, 15 Sgr. ; (2). For the attendant who conducts 
visitors along the upper choir - gallery . round the exterior of the ca- 
thedral. and~ to the top of the tower, 15 Sgr.: (3b For opening the 
treasury, the shrine containing the relics of the Magi, and the Dombild, 
Vfa ThlY. Cards are procured from the Suisse, who is generally in or near 
fhe transept. 



Cathedral. 



COLOGNE, 



3. Route, 21 



is approaching completion) , crowned with elegant open spires. The 
Crane on the S. tower , which had stood there for 400 years and 
. constituted one of the chief landmarks of Cologne , was removed 
in 1868. 

The principal portal is 93 ft. in height , and 31 ft. in width ; 
the side portals 38 ft. high and 18 ft. wide; the central window 48 
ft. high and 20 ft. wide. 

The arms of the transept are terminated by the N. and S. por- 
tals, which were completed in 1859, having been built entirely from 
Zwirner's designs, as the original plans were no longer extant. The 
N. Portal is executed in a simple style, while the *S. Portal is ela- 
borately decorated, and embellished with statues designed by Schwan- 
thaler and presented by the Emp. William. 

The * Choir, completed in 1322, and flanked with seven chapels, 
exhibits in its lower parts the simple and dignified forms of the 
early Gothic style , while in the upper parts the full magnificence 
and bold outlines of the consummated art are displayed. From the 
massive pillars of the substructure rises a rich system of flying but- 
tresses and arches, which not only serve to consolidate the structure, 
but pleasantly to soften the contrast between the low aisles and 
chapels and the lofty nave. 

The ** Interior , which is borne by 56 pillars , is 130 yds. in 
length; nave 16 yds. wide and 145 ft. in height; each of the four 
aisles 9 yds. wide and 60 ft. high. The area of the interior is 7399 
sq. yds. In 1863 the partition which for centuries had separated 
the nave from the choir w r as removed. The effect produced by 
the ensemble is now singularly impressive. 

Nave and Transept. The five Stained Glass Windows in the 
N. aisle, executed in 1508 and 1509, and representing archbishops, 
saints, and armorial bearings, are fine specimens of the workman- 
ship of that period. The * modern windows of the S. aisle, pre- 
sented in 1848 by King Lewis I. of Bavaria, prove that the once 
almost obsolete art has regained much of its ancient glory : 1st win- 
dow, John the Baptist; 2nd. Nativity; 3rd. Last Supper above, 
Death of Christ below; 4th. Descent of the Holy Ghost ; 5th. Stoning 
of St. Stephen. Below are prophets, evangelists , and fathers of the 
church in full figure. A sixth window , on the W. side of the S. 
Transept, was filled with stained glass in 1855 to the memory of 
Joseph v. Gorres (d. 1848), 'catholicse veritatis defensor! glorioso'. 
The modern stained glass windows of the S. Portal, commemorating 
the elevation of Archbishop v. Geissel of Cologne to the rank of 
cardinal, are of Cologne workmanship. The old stained glass on the 
W. side of the N. Transept is from several ancient churches of 
Cologne now demolished. 

The Choir is separated from the nave by an iron screen. Con- 
. soles projecting from the fourteen pillars of the central part bear 
Statues of Christ, Mary, and the Twelve Apostles, valuable as spe- 



22 Route 3. 



COLOGNE. 



Cathedral. 



cimens of the sculpture of the 14th cent. . restored in 1842. The 
modem statues in the transept were put up in 1866. The nine 
frescoes in the arches of the choir, executed by Steinle in 1844. re- 
present Angel Choirs in the ecclesiastical symbolic style . differently 
coloured in accordance with their various stages of development ; 
they are best viewed from the gallery of the choir (p. 23). The 
walls behind the choir stalls are covered with tapestry recently work- 
ed by ladies of Cologne . illustrative of the Nicene Creed and the 
Seven Sacraments. The handsome carved Stalls are of the 15th 
cent. Beneath a brass, with engraved full length figure . reposes 
Archbishop v. Spiegel (d. 1835). Above the triforium of the choir 
is a series of admirable old Stained Glass windows, representing the 
kings of Judah. etc. The windows in the transepts were filled with 
-rained glass by private individuals. 

Choir Chapels. 1. The Engelbert Chapel (first to the 1. , N. 
side) formerly contained the bones of Archbishop Engelbert von der 
Mark, who was assassinated by Friedrich von Isenburg on the Ge- 
elsberg near Schwelm (comp. p. '20) in 1225. but they were re- 
moved in 1633 and placed in a magnificent silver reliquary which 
is now preserved in the Treasury. 

2. Maternus Chapel. Tomb of Archbishop Philip v. Heinsberg 
(d. 1191) in the form of a town-wall with towers, gates, and pin- 
nacles , in allusion to his having founded the ancient fortifications 
of Cologne (p. 31). The altar is adorned with a fine gilded wood- 
carving representing the Passion. The original ground - plan of the 
S.W. tower of the cathedral and an original view of the S. tower 
from the E. side, found in Paris in 1816. are preserved here under 
glass (comp. 3rd chapel). 

3. Chapel of St. John. Tomb of Archbishop Conrad ?;. Hoch- 
staden (d. 1261), founder of the cathedral (p. 20) . with the figure 
of the deceased in bronze, dating from the first half of the loth 
cent., restored in 1847. The Altar of St. Clara . with paintings by 
the Meister Wilhelm. presented by the brothers Bois^ere'e. is worthy 
of inspection. Under glass in a massive oaken frame is here pre- 
served the original sketch on parchment of the W. Facade of the 
cathedral with the two towers in their completed form. Part of this 
interesting design was found at Darmstadt in 1814. the re-t at Paris 
in 1816. 

4. Chapel of the Three Kings. Here are preserved the 'Bones of 
the Magi' . or -Three Kings*, which were brought by the Empress 
Helena to Constantinople. They were afterward- taken to Milan, 
and in 1164 pre-ented by Frederick Barbarossa to Archbishop Keiald. 
by whom they were removed to Cologne. The reliquary in which 
they are preserved . artistically constructed at the end of the 12th 
rent., and adorned with reliefs, was once gorgeously decorated with 
gold and precious -tone-, but most of these ornaments disappeared 
during the French dominion at the end of last century, when the 



Chathedral. 



COLOGNE. 



S. Route. 23 



reliquary had been removed from Cologne with a view to ensure its 
safety. Outside this chapel repose the Electors of the House of Ba- 
varia. The heart of Marie de Medicis (p. 28) is also buried under 
a stone without any inscription in front of the chapel. Opposite to 
it, at the back of the high altar, is the tomb of Archbishop Theo- 
doric v. Mors (d. 1463) , dating from the second half of the 
16th cent. 

5. The Chapel of St. Agnes contains the celebrated * Dombild, 
termed by Gosthe 'the axis on which the history of Lower Rhenish 
art turns', a winged picture representing the Adoration of the Magi 
in the centre, St. Gereon and St. Ursula on the wings, and the An- 
nunciation on the outside. It bears the date 1410 , and is probably 
a work of the Master Stephan (p. 19). 

6. Chapel of St. Michael. Tombstone of Archbishop Walram of 
Ji'dich (d. 1349). Carved altar-piece of the 15th cent. 

7. Chapel of St. Stephen. Tombstone of the Imperial general von 
Hoehkirchen (who fell at Landau in 1703 , in the Spanish War of 
Succession). Near this chapel is the * Monument of Archbishop Fre- 
derick of Saarwerden (d. 1414), consisting of a figure of the arch- 
bishop in bronze, on a sarcophagus admirably decorated with figures 
of saints. 

The adjoining 'Muttergottes-Chorchen' , or chapel of the Virgin 
contains * Overbeck's Assumption , purchased in 1855 for 900l. The 
altar was designed by Zwirner in 1856. The Stained Glass windows 
of this chapel, executed at Cologne and put up in 1857 , represent 
scenes from the life of the Virgin, copied from ancient mural paint- 
ings discovered in 1842 during the restoration of the choir. 

By a pillar at the entrance to the S. Transept is the Statue of 
St. Christopher, about 10 ft. in height, dating from the end of the 
16th cent. 

The Treasury (entrance from the passage of the N. choir) con- 
tains a silver shrine with the remains of St. Engelbert , valuable 
ecclesiastical vessels, especially one presented by Pope Pius IX. in 
1848, the sword worn by the Elector of Cologne at the coronation 
procession at Frankfort, sacerdotal vestments, ten admirably carved 
ivory tablets, etc. 

The visitor should not omit to walk round the *Inner Gallery 
of the Choir and those on the Exterior of the Choir, or to ascend the 
Central Tower (from the S. portal; adm. by card, see p. 20), as 
a better idea may thus be formed of the grandeur of the structure. 
The external gallery, or better still the open gallery of the central 
tower, commands an extensive * prospect over the sea of houses, 
the plain intersected by the Rhine, and the Seven Mts. in the dis- 
tance. 

The Archiepiscopal Museum, opposite the S. side of the cathe- 
dral, containing a collection of ecclesiastical and other objects of 
mediaeval art, occupies the site of the archiepiscopal palace. 



24 Route 3. 



COLOGNE. 



Museum. 



Ike Iron Bridge, which crosses the Rhine to the E. of the ca- 
thedral, is broad enough for a double line of rails and a separate 
roadway for ordinary traffic. It is 453 yds. long and 47 ft. above 
the average level of the water. Over the entrance on the 1. ('Cologne) 
hank is an Equestrian Statue of Frederick William IV. by Blaser. on 
the r. bank an * Equestrian Statue of William J. by Drake, both 
erected in 1867. The approach to the bridge on the 1. bank affords 
a good survey of the choir of the cathedral. Deutz on the r. bank, 
see p. 31. 

In an open space to the W. of. and not far from the cathedral 
rises the new * Museum, or WaUraf-Eichartz- Museum [PI. 22), 
erected in the Gothic style by Felten inl855 — 61. the funds (about 
30,000-Z.] having been presented to the city by Herr Rienartz. 
a wealthy merchant (d. 1861). In the grounds on the E. side i< 
the old Roman arch of the Pfaffenthor. an ancient gate of the city 
transferred thither from its original position near the W. portal of 
the cathedral. The statue- at the principal portal ('X. side ) and 
those on the E. side represent characters of distinction in the 
annals of the city. The building contains valuable Roman and 
mediaeval antiquities and ancient and modern pictures bequeathed 
by Professor Wallraf fd. lS'24j to his native town (adm. gratis on 
Sund. . holy -days, and in winter on Wed. afternoons, at other 
times fee 7 1 2 Sgr.). 

The Ground Floor and the Cloisters (sunk - storey) contain the 
Roman Antiquities on the right. Room I.: Statuettes, busts (some of thein 
spurious), ^head of a Medusa found at Rome, casts of well-known antique^ 
(Laocoon. Apollo Belvedere. Venus de Medicis. etc.). Then a Collection of 
Coins, gems, carving, etc.. and another of Draicings. Engravings, and MSS. } 
on the left, ancient armour. In the Upper Cloister s curious specimens 
of artistic workmanship, stained glass, vases, etc.: a valuable collection 
of thirty scenes in Stained Glass , being modern copies of old masters of 
Cologne and the Netherlands, executed at Munich, and bequeathed by the 
brothers Boisseree. In the Lower Cloisters are several Mosaic Pave- 
ments, one of which of considerable size . and supposed to date from the 
3rd cent., was found during the construction of the new hospital, and pro- 
bably belonged to a library (with figures representing Plato. Aristotle. 
Diogenes. Socrates. Sophocles, etc.): then sarcophagi, architectural frag- 
ments and sculptures, ancient and medieeval . among them a rock-altar of 
Jupiter and of Hercules Saxanus. erected by legions stationed in Germany, 
and found in the Brohl Valley (p. 68) in 1862. Then to the 1. on the 
ground-floor . six rooms containing pictures of great historical interest of 
the venerable Cologne School: (a) Gothic Pictures (Xos. 2—11) of the 
vears 1250 — 1350 : 35. Pas-ion in 27 sections : 36 — 39. Passion, (b) Me ister 
Wilhelm and his School, from about 1350 to 1420 fSbs. 40—117). ^40. 
Virgin and Child: *41. Christ on the Cross surrounded by Mary and the 
Apostles : 99. Legend of St. Ursula . with a view of the city of Cologne, 
(c) Me ister Stephan and his School, from about 1420 to 1450 (Xos. 
118 — 146). M18. Madonna in an arbour of roses: *121. Last Judgment, 
id) Cologne School, influenced by that of the Van Eycks, from 1450 to 
1550 (Xos. 147 — 445). 159. Descent from the Cross: M64. Christ on the 
Cross: 184. Glorification of Marv : 184. Last Judgment : 195. Adoration of 
the Magi: 196. Mass of St. Gregory: 197, 198. Wings with saints: *199. 
Mystical marriage of St. Catharine with the Infant Christ: *205. Altar of 
St. Thomas: 206. Altar of the Holv Rood: M73. Death of Marv : 271. 
Crucifixion: 288. Ascension. Xos. 356—360 are by Bruvn (d. 1557): 354. 



Museum. 



COLOGNE. 



3. Route. 25 



Crucifixion, by Woensam of Worms. The Staircase is adorned with 
frescoes by Steinle. representing the history of the Cologne school of art 
during the Roman, the mediaeval, and the Renaissance periods. A descrip- 
tion of these works hangs halfway up the stair. 

Upper Floor. In the Reception Room, Nos. 1003 — 1028. '"Landscapes, 
Legends, History, and Monuments of the Rhenish Province 1 , in 26 sections, 
illustrated by Scheuren (1862). On the r. and 1. of the reception-room, 
and in a third room (to the r. , by the staircase), are pictures of the 
Flemish School (jSTos. 567 — 730): Rubens, 617. St. Francis receiving the 
stigmata: *618. Virgin and Child-, *624. Van Dyck, Portrait of Jabach, a 
wealthy citizen of Cologne; 633. Jordaens, Prometheus: 632. Honthorst (?), 
Nativity; 642. D. Teniers the Elder , Boors drinking; 654. Ostade , similar 
subject; 659. Backhuysen, Quay; 662 — 664. Huysmans, Landscapes; 668,669. 
Breughel, Flower-pieces. Farther on, to the L, the Italian School, the 
specimens of which, as well as those of the French School in the ad- 
joining room, are of little value. A saloon to the L, by the staircase, con- 
tains a collection of Modern Pictures: 942. Schick. Eve observing the 
reflection of her figure in a brook ; 951, 952. Begas, Portraits of his parents 
and himself; 956. Meister , Lions fighting; *966. Bendemann , Mourning 
Jews; *962. Lessing , Monastery court covered with snow; 963. Lessing, 
Landscape; 971. Fau, Samson and Delilah ; 981. Camphausen^ Prince Eugene 
at the battle of Belgrade; *980. Bbttcher , Summer night on the Rhine: 
990. Piloty, Galileo in prison; 972. Zimmermann , Market-day; 974. Schra- 
der, Cromwell at the death-bed of his daughter; 974. Voltz, Cattle resting ; 
983. Schmidt , Prayer beside a corpse ; 986. Correns . Portrait of Zwirner, 
the late eminent architect of the cathedral. On the r. (SAY.) the Fran- 
co ni an School: 521. Wohlgemuth, Death of Mary; 522. Alb. Biirer, 
Drummer and piper ; 523. Biirer (?), Madonna and Child. Saxon School: 
*534. Cranach the Elder, Mary Magdalene; 535. Infant Jesus. The rooms 
on the W. side contain the Exhibition of the Cologne Art Union , the pic- 
tures in which are frequently changed. 

At the back of the Museum is the Church of the Minorites 
(PI. 45) of the 13th cent., externally an edifice in the early pointed 
style, said to have been built in their leisure hours by the workmen 
engaged in the construction of the cathedral , and recently restored 
at the expense of the late Herr Richartz. It contains the tombstone 
of the celebrated theological disputant Buns Scotus (d. 1309), with 
the inscription : Scotia me genuit , Anglia me suscepit , Gallia me 
docuit, Colonia me tenet. The beautiful late Gothic cloisters on the 
N. side were restored at the time when the new museum was 
constructed and employed as a receptacle for Roman and mediaeval 
antiquities. 

In the Appelhofs-Platz. opposite the Comodien-Str. , is the Justiz- 
gebaude, or Court of Justice (PI. 21), an unattractive modern build- 
ing. Farther on, in the Zeughaus-Str. , on the 1. , is the Arsenal 
(PI. 54) with the Guard-House, erected in 1601 ; on the r. are the 
palatial Government Buildings (PI. 27), erected in 1830. Farther 
W. in the same direction, at the corner of the Apern - Str. , is the 
Rbmerthurm, an ancient round tower inlaid with stones of different 
colour. It is said once to have formed an angle of the ancient Ro- 
man town, considerable fragments of the walls of which still exist 
in the vicinity (on the 'Burgmauer) ; the main substance of it is 
undoubtedly of Roman origin, the upper part modern. The Stein- 
feldergasse leads hence (leaving the new Library to the I.) to St, 
Gereons 1 see p, 29, 



26 Route 3. 



COLOGNE. 



Rathhnus. 



The new Synagogue CP]. 50) in the Glockengasse . an edifice in 
the Moorish style designed by Zwirner, and built at the expense of 
the banker Oppenheim. is covered with a handsome gilded dome. 

Between the cathedral and the Museum , at the small Wallrafs- 
Platz, begins the narrow Hochstrasse (PL E, I, 5), the busiest 
street in Cologne, which with its N. and S. prolongations (the Mar- 
zeilen-Str. and Eigelstein to the N. . the Hochpforte and Severins- 
Str. to the S.) intersects the entire city from N. to S. On the r. 
side of the Hochstrasse is the Konig in- Augusta- Halle , an arcade 
with shops. 

To the E. of this, between the Hochstrasse and the Rhine, are 
situated several important buildings, not far from each other. 

The * Rathhaus (PI. 26), facing the Stadthaus-Platz to the W. 
and the old market to theE., was founded in the 13th cent., attained 
its present dimensions in 1549. and has recently been restored. The 
* Portico, added in 1571. is an elegant structure in the Renaissance 
style, with Latin inscriptions recording the gratitude of the citizens 
to Julius Caesar, Augustus, Agrippa, Constantine , Justinian, and 
the German Emp. Maximilian. The Reliefs in the centre (on the 
1. Samson rending the lion's jaw. on the 1. Daniel in the lions' den) 
contain an allusion to an ancient tradition. 

Archbishop Engelbert (p. 22) sought the life of Burgomaster Gryn. He 
invited his intended victim to a banquet, and caused him to be conducted 
to a room where a hungry lion had been placed to devour the obnoxious 
citizen. The latter, however, contrived to thrust his left arm down the 
animal's throat, while he stabbed it with his right hand, and thus 
escaped. 

The ^Hansa-Saal, or Hanseatic Hall (30 yds. long, 8 yds. wide, 32 ft. 
high), on the first floor of the Rathhaus, recently restored, is said to be 
that in which the first general meeting of the League took place on 19th 
Nov.. 1367. The S. wall is entirely occupied by nine rich canopies, with 
large figures roughly executed in stone, representing heathen, Jewish, and 
Christian heroes (Hector, Alexander the Great, Csesar; Joshua, David, 
Maccabseus ; Charlemagne, King Arthur, Godfrey de Bouillon); above 
these , but smaller , Charles IV. , who fortified the town and presented it 
with the privileges of a market, as the figures on the r. and 1. indicate. 
In the windows are the armorial bearings of the different imperial fami- 
lies of Germany, on the long wall those of 45 patrician families of Cologne, 
on the ceiling those of the burgomasters of Cologne from 1346 to the 
downfall of the independence of the city. The two upper series are the 
arms of 22 guilds. 

The Chapel of the Rathhaus, which formerly contained theDom- 
bild (p. 23), was a synagogue before the banishment of the Jews 
( 1349). The Gothic tower of the Rathhaus, erected in 1407—1414, 
contains the Wallraf Library and Archives, open daily 10 — 12. The 
Facade towards the Alte Markt has recently been richly decorated 
with reliefs and statues. 

The Church of * Gross St. Martin (PI. 38), near the Rhine, con- 
secrated in 1172. is a bold and elegant Romanesque structure. The 
massive tower, of which one of the corner turrets is still incomplete, 
rests on four arches, 100 ft. in height and 40 ft. in span, the only 
counterpoise of which consists of three handsome half-rotundas. The 



Giirzenich. 



COLOGNE. 



3. Route. 27 



lower part of the church, was erected a century later in the transition 
style. In the corner of the church, to the 1. by the entrance , is an 
ancient font, decorated with lions' heads and foliage , a rare sculp- 
ture of the 8th cent, presented by Pope Leo III. On the upper side- 
altars are six modern statues by Hofiinann of Rome. The N. aisle 
contains a fine Descent from the Cross, by du Bois , and Christ be- 
fore Annas, by Honthorst. The pulpit rests on a recumbent 
dragon. 

To the S. of the Rathhaus is the* GKirzenich (PL 15), so named 
after the citizen by whom it was erected, the most important secular 
edifice at Cologne, adorned with pinnacles and six slender watch- 
towers, erected in 1441 — 74 , and enlarged in 1856. The modern 
statues above the E. gateways represent Agrippa and Marsilius, re- 
spectively the founder and defender of the town during the Roman 
period. 

Interior (adm. 5 Sgr.). The spacious *Festsaal was employed in 
the middle ages on festive occasions , especially when the city gave ban- 
quets in honour of a visit from the emperor. It was remodelled in 1857, 
and is now borne by twenty-two richly carved wooden columns. Length 
58, breadth 24 yds., height 47 ft. The modern stained glass windows 
represent the armorial bearings of Julich , Cleve, Berg, and Mark, the 
mediaeval allies of Cologne, with St. Peter as the patron saint of the city, 
two Imperial eagles, the arms of Cologne itself, those of six burgomasters 
of the period when the building was first erected, and those of the twenty- 
two guilds. The two old Chimney Pieces , richly carved with scenes from 
the early history of the town, are worthy of inspection. The ante- 
chamber (-Kleine Giirzenich") is adorned with several modern mural paint- 
ings representing the entry of the Empress Isabella (wife of Frederick II.), 
the legend of the Cologne wood-catting expedition (viz. that Marsilius 
saved the town from a beleaguering enemy by sending out armed women 
against them on the pretext of felling wood), and the Festival of St. John 
(a symbolical washing away of the fogs of the year in the Rhine). Con- 
certs in the Giirzenich, see p. 16. 

The Church of *St. Maria im Capitol (PL 40), a cruciform edi- 
tire in the Romanesque style , constructed on an imposing and 
somewhat peculiar plan, is the most ancient church in Cologne, and 
owes its name to the tradition that this site was once occupied by the 
Roman Capitol. It is supposed to have been founded at the clo?e 
of the 7th cent, by Plectrudis, wife of Pepin ofHeristal, and mother 
of Charles Martel , but the present edifice appears to belong to the 
1 1th cent. The S. (Hardenrath's) chapel contains frescoes by Israel 
of Meckenem ; the finest represents a small group of choristers. The 
N. chapel (baptistery) contains an altar-piece of 1521 , ascribed to 
Albert Diirer, representing the dying Mary surrounded by the 
Apostles, with the Separation of the Apostles on the back. The old 
Stained Glass windows, the rich sculpturing under the organ (exe- 
cuted in 1623), and the crypt deserve mention. On the door of the 
N. entrance are carved reliefs of the 1 1th cent., and on the external 
wall of the choir a life-size figure of Plectrudis in stone ( probably the lid 
of a sarcophagus) of the 10th cent. The church possesses a spacious 
crypt, and frescoes in the choir. Adjoining it to the S.E. is a small 



28 Route 3. 



COLOGNE. 



St. Peter. 



pointed archway . with stone carving lately restored . forming the 
entrance to the Konigs-Strasse. 

To the r. in the vicinity, is the Templars' Lodge (PI. 51). Rhein- 
gasse No. 8. dating from the 12th or 13th cent. . and frequently 
alluded to in the annals of the city as a guild-house . but novr em- 
ployed as an Exchange, and for meetings of the Chamber of Com- 
merce. Navigation Companies. &c. The walls of the three rooms 
on the ground-floor are adorned with paintings in the taste of the 
period, emblematical of priesthood . knighthood, and citizenship, 
the three elements of the mediaeval state. 

The Prot. Trinity Church (PI. 56). in the early Christian basilica 
style, designed by Stiiler. was consecrated in 1860. 

St. Severin's (PI. 48). at the S. end of the town . consists of a 
Romanesque choir consecrated in 1237, and a Gothic nave of elegant 
proportions of the 14th cent.: the spire on the W. side of the church 
was erected in 1394 — 1411. The Last Supper by de Bruyn. a winged 
picture over an altar to the r. . is one of his finest works . painted 
about the year 1536. A fresco in the sacristy by Meister Wilhelm 
(p. 19) is unfortunately in bad preservation. 

To the W. of St. Maria im Capitol, in the Sternengasse (No. 10, 
r. side) is the house (PI. 19) in which Rubens is supposed to have 
been born (in 1577). indicated by an inscription and a wooden figure 
of the illustrious master fcomp. p. 39). An inscription on the 
opposite side records that Marie de Medicis (p. 23). widow of Henri 
IV. of France, died here in exile in 1642. 

Continuing to follow the same line of streets, the traveller reaches 
the Church of St. Peter (PI. 47) . which contains an altar-piece by 
Rubens representing the Crucifixion of St. Peter, recovered from 
Paris in 1814. It is concealed by another picture of little value 
which the sexton removes (fee 15 Sgr.). A copy of the picture 
hangs over the X. side-entrance. The old carved altar, with paint- 
ings ascribed to Lucas of Leyden . is shown for an additional fee 
of 5 Sgr. 

The adjoining Church of St. Csecilia (PI. 31) , erected about 
1200. and partially restored in 1850. situated next to the hospital, 
serves as its chapel. The crypt, containing remnants of Roman ma- 
sonry, deserves inspection. 

At the back of these two churches is situated the spacious Hospi- 
tal (PI. 4). the patients in which are attended by Sisters of Charity. 
It may be inspected in the afternoon; visitors, on entering their 
names in a book, usually contribute a trifle to the funds (attendant 
5 Sgr.). A large mosaic pavement . discovered during the erection 
of the building, is now in the new Museum (p. 24). 

On the E. side of the Ne u m a rkt . a square planted with trees 
( military parade at noon) . the largest in Cologne , rises the 
Apostles' Church (PI. 30) . a remarkably handsome basilica with 
aisles and double transept. Over the E. point of intersection rises 



St. Gerecn. 



COLOGNE. 



3. Route. 29 



a dome flanked with two slender corner - towers , and over the W. 
intersection a square tower. The choir and the arms of the E. tran- 
sept terminate in very spacious rounded apses , adorned with two 
series of niches and a miniature gallery above them. The construction 
of the church began about the year 1200 , during the most perfect 
period of the Romanesque style, and was completed about the middle 
of the century. The extensive ~W. transept begins to show the transi- 
tion to the pointed style. Pictures in the church insignificant. 

When the plague raged at Cologne in 1357, Richmodis von Lyskir- 
chen, wife of the knight Mengis von Adocht, was attacked by the malady, 
and having fallen into a deathlike swoon , was interred in the Apostles' 
Church. Being awakened from her trance by a thievish gravedigger in 
his attempts to abstract her ring, she returned to the house of 
her husband, who imagining he beheld an apparition , declared he would 
sooner believe that his horses could ascend to the loft of his house than 
that his departed spouse should return in propria persona. Scarcely had 
the words escaped his lips, says the legend, than horses 1 hoofs were heard 
mounting the stairs, and their heads were speedily seen looking out of a 
window in the upper story of the house. (Two horses' heads, affixed to 
the upper story of the house with the tower on the N. side of the Neu- 
markt, were placed there in commemoration of the miraculous event.) 
The lady recovered, and lived for many years afterwards. 

To the W. of the Apostles 1 Church is the Gymnasium, or 
Grammar School , a fine modern brick structure , and the handsome 
Government Buildings. 

The modern Mauritiuskirche (PI. 44) in the Mauritius-Stein- 
weg is a good Gothic building. To the W. of it the Arndt-Strasse 
leads to the * Gewerbe-Schule. or commercial school , behind which 
is situated the Turnhalle (gymnastic hall). 

The Church of St. Pantaleon (PI. 46), one of the most ancient 
buildings in Cologne, is mentioned in documents as early as 670. 
The Archb. Bruno (d. 965), brother of Otho the Great, is said to 
have used the remnants of the bridge of Constantine (p. 18) in 
building the abbey and enlarging the church. To the r. by the high 
altar is the tombstone of the Empress Theophania (d. 9991 , consort 
of Otho II. ; on the 1. that of Count Hermann von Zutphen , abbot 
of the monastery , and brother of St. Irmgard, both erected during 
the last century. The fine old Gothic sculpturing under the organ 
has been restored. The church has been fitted up for the use of a 
Rom. Cath. and a Prot. congregation. — In the extensive Griechen- 
markt, in the neighbourhood, is the large reservoir of the new 
Waterworks. 

A few paces to the N. of the Apostles 1 Church, by the old town- 
wall, is the Gertrudenhof 16), and in the Wolfsgasse the Dio- 
rama (p. 17). On the way thence to St. Gereon the Roman Tower 
(p. 25) is passed. 

The Church of * St. Gereon (PL 36) . dedicated to the memory 
of the 408 martyrs of the Theban legion, with their captains Gereon 
and Gregory (afterwards the patron saints of Cologne), who perished 
here in 286 during the persecution of the Christians under Diocletian, 



30 Route 3. 



COLOGNE. 



St. Inula. 



occupies the site of an ancient church . said to have been founded 
hy the Empress Helena. The form of the church is very peculiar. 
The long Romanesque choir with two square towers by the apse, 
dating from the 11th and 12th cent., is adjoined by a nave covered 
with groined vaulting 153 ft. in height, the ground plan of which 
forms an irregular decagon, erected in 1219 — 1*2*27 . and terminated 
by a quadrangular vestibule. In the eight shorter sides of the nave 
are large round recesses . between which rise the flying buttresses. 
In the interior of the nave, where a kind of trifoiium borne by small 
columns runs above the niches . are seen the sarcophagi of the mar- 
tyrs projecting from the walls into which they are built. Upwards 
of 200 of their skulls . some of them covered with velvet . are 
arranged round the choir under gilded arabesque-. Traces of ancient 
frescoes have recently been discovered. Beneath the choir is a crypt 
with aisles, begun about 1121. The Sacristy, in the purest Gothic 
style of 1316. and the octagonal baptistery of the beginning of the 
13th cent, are worthy of inspection. (Fee for 1 — 3 pers. 10 Sgr/) 

About 80 yds. E. of the church, in the Gereons-Strasse . which 
is planted with trees, is situated the Archiepiscopal Palace (PL 13f), 
in front of which stands the Mariensaule . a monument erected in 
1858 to commemorate the promulgation of the new doctrine of the 
immaculate conception of the Virgin. 

Farther N., in the Klingelpiitz. is tkv Arresthaus(¥\. 7), a mod- 
ern prison constructed in a radiating form. 

St. Ursula (PI. 49) is said to have been erected at the begin- 
ning of the 11th cent, by the Emp. Henry II. The choir contains a 
monument (to the I.), erected in 1658 to St. Ursula , a n English 
princess, who, according to the legend . when on her return from a 
pilgrimage to Rome, was barbarously murdered at Cologne with her 
11.000 virgin attendants. The bones of these virgin martyrs are 
preserved in cases, placed round the church. Ten old pictures of the 
Apostles, to the 1. of the S. entrance , are painted on slabs of -late, 
one of them bearing the date 1224. Under the organ a well-executed 
old Gothic Crucifixion in stone. 

The Jesuits' Church (PI. 20), erected in 1636 in the style pe- 
culiar to this order, is overloaded with decoration. The bells were 
cast with the metal of cannons taken by Tilly at Magdeburg, and 
presented by him to the church. 

St. Andreas (PI. 29 ). with Romanesque nave and raised Gothic 
choir, contains the Reliquary of Albertus Magnus (d.'T280). who 
lived and died at the neighbouring Dominican monastery (now an 
artillery barrack), preserved in a richly-adorned modern Gothic altar. 
The reliquary, richly carved in wood and^gilded . and adorned with 
paintings, dates from the end of the 15th cent. 

The neighbouring street 'Inter Sachsenhauseri contains two 
handsome buildiigs, No. 8, with rich facade, the Bank of the Schaaff- 
Hansen Co. and >"os. 24 — 26 the Cologne Fire Insurance Co. 



Zooloy. Garden. 



COLOGNE. 



3. Route. . o l 



On the Rhine, near the N. end of the town, is situated the Church 
•of St. Cunibert (PI. 33), consecrated by Archbishop Conrad in 1248, 
the same year in which he laid the foundation of the cathedral. It 
contains some fine old stained glass and modern * frescoes in the 
choir, and several small pictures of saints on old ground, probably 
of the old Cologne school. The external gallery of the choir com- 
mands a view of the Rhine and the distant mountains. Fine organ. 
— The opposite Marien-Hospital for incurables was erected by sub- 
scription. 

One of the most remarkable works of its kind is the well pre- 
served Town Wall , with broad , deep fosses and admirable gate- 
towers, begun at the close of the 12th cent, under Archbishop Philip, 
and completed in the 15th. It describes a semicircle , the chord of 
which, about i 1 ^ M. in length, is formed by the Rhine. 

The w^harves here present a busy scene. Near the Bayenthurm 
( PI. A, 7; p. 16), at the S. end of the town, is the Sicherheitshaf 'en 
( 'safety -harbour' , where vessels take refuge in winter from the 
dangers of the floating ice). The warehouses of the Freihafen , or 
Free-Harbour, immediately below the bridge of boats , w ere erected 
in 1838 in the style of the Giirzenich. The town may now be entered 
by theMuhlengassen-Thor. The traveller intending to cross the Rail- 
way-Bridge (p. 24) approaches it by the Domthor, farther N. than 
the last named gate. 

Passing the Trankgassenthor , to the N. of the bridge , and St. 
Cunibert (see above), whence the steamboats to the Zoological Gar- 
den and Mulheim start, the traveller reaches the N. end of the town 
('Am Thiirmchen' ; comp. Plan K, 7), crosses the entrance to the 
Old Sicherheitshaf en, and skirting a number of gardens and villas, 
at length arrives at the ^Zoological Garden (open daily in summer 
from 6, in winter from 8 a. m., till sunset; adm. 10, Sund. 5Sgr.). 
A military band generally plays here on Wed. afternoons. Grounds 
well laid out. fine collection of animals. * Refreshment - room. — 
Close by are the * Botanical Gardens of the 'Flora Co.' with a hand- 
some conservatory and an Aquarium. The Belvedere commands a 
good survey of Cologne and the Seven Mts. Concerts c ct la Strauss' 
on Sund. and Wed., more frequently in summer. — The Cologne 
and Mulheim steamboats (p. 17) have a station near these gardens, 
where a bell apprises visitors of their approach. 

The Glacis of the Town - Fortifications , which begins by the 
the Old Sicherheitshaf en, affords an agreeable promenade round the 
town. To the W., between St. Gereon's Thor and the Ehren-Thor, 
lies the Town Garden, with a horticultural school. 

The extensive Cemetery , on the road to Aix-la-Chapelle , con- 
tains several fine monuments. 

On the r. bank of the Rhine, opposite Cologne, lie> Deutz (Hotels 
see p. 16), the tete-de-pont of Cologne , the Roman Castrum Divi- 
tensium, probably founded in the 1st cent. , and afterwards strengthen- 



32 Route 4. 



NEUSS. 



ed by Constantine. it was undoubtedly a Roman fort, and existed 
as a fortress down to 1114; it was repeatedly destroyed and restored, 
but never attained any importance, as a settlement here would have 
been inconsistent with the privileges of Cologne. Since 1816Deutz 
has been fortified by the Prussians in connection with Cologne. The 
Cologne and Minden Railway Station (p. 16) is near ike large Ca- 
valry Barracks. Outside the Feldthor is the Bergisch Mdrkisch 
Station (for Mulheim and Elberfeld . p. 40). The Prot. Johannis- 
kirche was consecrated in 1861. 

Interesting excursion to the abbev of ^Altenberg in the Dhiintlial , 12 
M. to the N.E., see p. 15. 

4. From Cologne to Neuss [Diisseldorf), Crefeld, 
and Clove, 

Railway to Cleve in 'iVi hrs. (fares 3 Thlr. 5, 2 Thlr. 10, 1 Thlr. 
IT 1 2 Sgr.) : to Diisseldorf (comp. p. 15) in 1V 4 — 1 3 -4 hr. (fares 1 Thlr. 6, 
25, 17 Sgr.). The station for this line at Diisseldorf is opposite the town, 
near the bridge of boats. Return - tickets are available for the day of 
issue and the following day only. 

The district traversed is flat . but in some places historically 
interesting. Stat. Longerich. Then 

Worringen . the Buruncum of the Romans, and one of their 
cavalry stations. In consequence of a battle fought here in 1288 
between the citizens of Cologne and the Brabanters under the Duke 
of Berg on one side, and the Archbishop of Cologne and the Duke 
of Guelders on the other . the Duchy of Limburg was annexed to 
Brabant. i^Zons . which lies on the Rhine in the vicinity , the 
Roman Sontium. with numerous towers, once belonged to Cologne.). 
Horrem is the station for Dormagen. the Roman Durnomagus, once 
the head- quarters of the 22nd Legion (TransrhenanaJ. Herr Del- 
hoven possesses a fine collection of Roman antiquities. 

Neuss (* Hotel Francken ; * Rheinischer Hof), the junction of the 
Aix-la-Chapelle and Diisseldorf, and the Diiren lines , founded by 
the Ubii B. C. 35, often mentioned as a Roman fortress by Tacitus, 
under the name Novesium, and once the station of the 6th and 16th 
Legions, is one of the oldest towns in Germany. In 1474 it was in 
vain besieged by Charles the Bold of Burgundy during 48 weeks, 
and in 1586 was conquered and treated with great severity by Alex- 
ander Farnese. It once lay on the Rhine . from which it is now 
l l /. 2 M. distant. The handsome * Quirinuskirche , founded in 1209, 
belongs to the transition period. St. Quirinus is believed to have 
been a Roman soldier, who perished in the persecution of the 
Christians. The dome of the massive square E. tower is crowned 
with a statue of the saint. The grammar-school contains a consider- 
able collection of Roman Antiquities, 

Stat. Osterath. junction for the line to Essen (p. 37). 

Travellers proceeding in the hitter direction (to Essen in l 1 ^ hr. : 
fares 3'2 . '22. 16 Sgr.) change carriages at Osterath. Stations Linn and 



CREFELD. 



4. Route. 33 



er ding en (p. 35). At Rheinhausen the train crosses the Rhine by means 
of an ingeniously contrived steam-ferry (railway bridge in course of con- 
struction). A fresh locomotive awaits the train on the opposite bank, 
and the journey is continued after a trifling delay. Beyond stat. Hoch- 
feld the Cologne - Minden line is crossed. From stat. Millheim on the 
Ruhr (p. 36) to Essen the line runs parallel with the Bergisch-Markisch 
(R. 6). 

Crefeld (* Oberheim, R. 15, D. 20 Sgr. ; * Wilder Mann) is the 
seat of the chief silk and velvet manufactories in Germany , which 
produce fabrics of an annual value of 2,000,000£. vying in excel- 
lence with those of Lyons, and largely exported to America. Popul. 
(14,000 in 1835) 57,335, 13,000 being Prot. and 1000 Anabaptists 
whose ancestors were banished from the Duchies of Jiilich and Berg, 
and settled here under the protection of the Princes of Orange 
(1600—1702). In 1702 the town together with the County of Meurs 
to which it had long pertained , fell by inheritance to the crown of 
Prussia. In June 1758, Prince Ferdinand of Brunswick, the general 
of Frederick the Great , defeated the French under the Prince of 
Bourbon-Conde' in the vicinity; the battle-field is marked by a mo- 
nument. Crefeld is the junction of the lines to Aix-la-Chapelle and 
to Ruhrort. 

Next stat. Kemp en (Pontzen) , an ancient town with a well 
preserved Romanesque church, the supposed birthplace of Thomas 
a Kempis (d. at Zwolle , 1471). The fertile district now begins 
to assume the Dutch character. Geldern, the next station of im- 
portance , formerly the capital of the Duchy of Guelders , has be- 
longed to Prussia since 1713. The train here crosses the Niers ; 
stations Kevelaer (frequented by pilgrims), Weeze , and Goch (im- 
portant in the middle ages) , from which a branch line to Xanten 
and Wesel is in course of construction. The sand-hills which 
separate the Rhine and the Meuse are now gradually ascended, and 
Cleve soon becomes visible on the left. 

Cleve (*Maiwald, on the S. side of the hill; *Robbers and 
*H6tel Styrum, to the W. of and outside the town ; *H6tel Look, 
opposite the post-office ; Hotel Laferriere, near the palace ; Kaiser- 
lieher Hof), pop. 9709, once the capital of the Duchy of that name, 
is beautifully situated on a wooded hill, 4y 2 M. W. of Emmerich. 
The * Stiftskirche , erected in 1345, contains monuments of Counts 
and Dukes of Cleve (the finest that of Adolph VI. , d. 1394), and 
one of Margaretha von Berg (d. 1425). — A modern Statue of 
the Elector John Sigismund (d. 1619) is a memorial of the annexa- 
tion of the district to the Electorate of Brandenburg in 1609. 

On a picturesque eminence in the town rises the Palace of the 
former dukes (in the court-yard a Roman Altar found in the neigh- 
bourhood), with the lofty * Schwanenthurm, erected by Adolph I. in 
1439, on the site of an ancient tower supposed to have been built 
by Caesar. The Schwanenthurm and the Clever-Berg, l / 2 M. distant, 
command the most beautiful views on the Lower Rhine. To the S. 
extends a range of hills on which lies the Prinzenhof, the property 

BiEDEKEB's Rhine, 5th Edit, 3 



34 Route 4. 



XANTEN. 



of the Princess of Waldeck. once the seat of the governor appointed 
"by the Elector of Brandenburg. Towards the W. lie the hills known 
as the Thiergarten, laid out with pleasant park-like grounds, which 
adjoin the road to Nymwegen. 

Beyond Cleve the Rhenish Railway pursues its N. direction , crosses 
the Rhine by means of a steam floating-bridge near stat. Elten , and at 
stat. Zevenaar unites with the Dutch line to Amsterdam and Rotterdam 
(R. 2); see also Baedeker's Belgium and Holland. 

To Nymwegen by railway via Groesbeck and Cranenburg in 40 min. ; 
comp. Baedeker's Belgium and Holland. 

From Cle ve to X an ten on the Rhine diligence twice daily in 2 3 |4 
hrs. (18 3 j4 Sgr. ; railway about to be opened), via Calcar, the Gothic church 
of which contains a remarkably fine altar-piece by Johann of Calcar, and 
below it some admirably carved wood-work. Calcar was the birthplace 
of the celebrated Prussian General Seydlitz (d. 1773), the conqueror at 
Rossbach, a handsome monument to whom adorns the market-place. 

Xanten ( Ingenlath), 2 x \a M. from the Rhine, a town of great antiquity, 
was the Castra Vetera and Colon ia VJpia of the Romans, head-quarters of 
the 30th (Ulpia victri.r), 18th. and 19th Legions, which were destroyed in 
the battle of the Teutoburgian Forest. Here, too , stood the castle of the 
iSabelungen , and here Sigfried the dragon-slayer (p. 49) was born. On 
the Fiirstenberg, a neighbouring eminence, was situated the Preetorium of 
Quintilius Varus. The ^Collegiate Church of St. Victor, erected in 1213 — 
1522, is a Gothic gem. The choir, separated from the nave by an elegant 
bronze screen, is worthy of attention; the cloisters contain tombstones 
valuable in the history of art. Herr Ingenlath, the hotel-keeper, possesses 
a small collection of Roman antiquities. 

5. From Aix-la-Chapelle by Gladbach to Dusseldorf, 
Crefeld, and Ruhrort. 

Ra ilwa v to Diisseldorf in 2^2 hrs. (fares 2 Thlr. 18, 1 Thlr. 28, 1 Thlr. 
9 Sgr.), to Ruhrort in 3s j4 hrs. (fares 2 Thlr. 25, 2 Thlr. 4, 1 Thlr. 13 Sgr.). 

This railway has two stations at Aix- la- Chapelle , one at the 
Marschierthor , near the Khenish station, the other at the Templer- 
bend, near the Pont - Thor. The line passes through, the venerable 
city-wall, which is well preserved in this neighbourhood and termi- 
nates in a lofty watch-tower, now employed as a powder-magazine. 
The Lousberg (p. 8) and a number of pleasant villas are next passed. 
At Bichterich the Mastricht Line diverges to the L, by the continua- 
tion of which to Antwerp the circuitous route by Liege is avoided. 
(From Aix-la-Chapelle to Mastricht in 1 hr. , several unimportant 
stations.) 

The tall chimneys near Kohlscheid , and at Bardenberg on the 
opposite bank of the Wurm , afford an indication of the mineral 
wealth of the district. At Kohlscheid the railway begins to descend 
rapidly into the pleasing and partially wooded valley of the Wurm ; 
the next station lies 200 ft. lower. 

At Herzogenrath (Zum Wurmthal) , French Bolduc , a small 
town with an ancient castle, the buildings of the suppressed Abbey 
of Klosterrath (now a school) look down from a height on the 1. 
The station is embellished with a colossal statue of Moses, in sand- 
stone from the neighbouring quarries. 



RUHRORT. 



5. Route. 35 



On the 1., near Geilerikirchen, rise the chateaux of Rimburg and 
Zweibriiggen, and beyond them that of Trips. The train then quits 
the grassy valley of the Wurm, traverses the undulating and fertile 
Duchy of Jiilich, and between Lindern and Baal crosses the rich 
plain of the Roer (p. 9). Stat. Erkelenz, an old town with the 
picturesque ruins of a castle destroyed in 1674 , and a handsome 
church of the 14th cent. ; then Wickrath, a small country town, and 
Rheydt (Krusemann), at the station of which rises a new Rom. Cath. 
church. 

About 6 M. to the E. of Rheydt is situated Schloss Dyck, the chateau 
of Prince Salm-Reifferscheid-Dyck, with beautiful grounds, and a garden 
which boasts of the most complete collection of cacti in Europe. (Rose, 
a good inn, opposite the gate of the chateau.) An agricultural school 
in the vicinity, founded by the prince, enjoys a high reputation. Schloss 
Liedberg, which crowns an eminence 3 M. to the N. of Dyck , commands 
an extensive prospect over the surrounding plain. 

Gladbach (Herfs), termed 'Munchen - Gladbach' to distinguish 
it from a place of the same name 6 M. to the N.E. of Cologne (p. 
15), is the junction of the Crefeld and Diisseldorf lines. The hand- 
some modern Gothic brick-buildings here belong to a cotton -spin- 
ning company. The whole of this district, comprising the towns of 
Rheydt, Gladbach, Viersen (see below) , and Odenkirchen 3 M. to 
the S. of Rheydt, is remarkable for its industrial prosperity , and 
imports about 2000 tons of cotton from England annually. At 
Viersen there are extensive manufactories of silks and velvet- 
ribbons. Most of the operatives possess a small piece of land, which 
they and their families cultivate during their leisure hours. 

From Gladbach to Diisseldorf. The line turns towards 
the E., traverses a flat, arable, and partially wooded tract, passes 
Kleinenbruch andiYewss (p. 32), and terminates at Obercassel, oppo- 
site Diisseldorf, which is reached by the bridge of boats. Railway 
bridge about to be opened. Diisseldorf, see p. 13. 

From Gladbach to Crefeld and Ruhrort. The train 
proceeds at first towards the N. ; stat. Viersen (Hilgers). 

A line diverges hence to Venlo ( 3 |4 hr. 5 fares 18, 13, 9 Sgr.), the junc- 
tion of the Dutch railways to the W. to MoerdycJc, and S. to Mastricht. 
See Baedeker' 's Belgium and Holland. 

The Crefeld line next crosses the Nord- Canal , begun by Napo- 
leon 1. for the purpose of uniting the Rhine and the Meuse , and 
completed by the Prussian government in 1823 , but disused since 
the opening of the railway. Stat. Anrath, then Crefeld (p. 33). 

The train to Ruhrort proceeds due E. from Crefeld to XJerdingen 
(DornbuschJ, a small commercial town on the Rhine, with several 
extensive liqueur manufactories (hence by Rheinhausen to Essen, 
see p. 33), turns towards the N., passing the old Haus Dreven with 
its two towers, and soon stops atHomberg, the terminus of the line, 
whence travellers are conveyed by steamboat in 8 min. to Ruhrort 
(* Cleve Hotel), and landed at the station of the Cologne-Minden, 
or that of the Bergisch - Markisch railway. The towers (128 ft. in 

3* 



36 Route 6. 



DUISBURG. 



height) at the Homberg and Ruhrort harbours are employed in plac- 
ing laden trucks on the steam - ferry by which the Rhine is here 
crossed. 

The town, with 7740 inhab., lies on the Rhine at the influx of 
the Ruhr, which forms the most extensive river-harbour in Germany, 
capable of accommodating 400 vessels. The Ruhr is an important 
channel of communication between the productive coal mines (see 
below) of this district and the Rhine. The export of coals from this 
point amounts to about iy 4 million tons annually, for the transport 
of which Ruhrort possesses about 16 powerful tug-steamers and 400 
barges, some of which are upwards of 500 tons burden. One - half 
of the coal exported is conveyed to the various towns on the Upper 
Rhine , and even as far as Strasbourg , while the other half is sent 
to Holland. The Quays of Ruhrort are of considerable extent. A 
granite obelisk on the quay is to the memory of L. v. Vincke (d. 
1844). the president of the province , who materially improved the 
navigation of the Ruhr. Opposite the railway-station are situated 
the 6 blast, and 108 puddling-furnaces of the Phcenix Co. 

The train proceeds hence in 20 min. by a short branch -line 
to Oberhausen (p. 13). a station on the Cologne-Minden Railway. 

6. From Duisburg to Dortmund by Langendreer. 

Rail wan ('Bergisch-Markisch') in 13 4 hr. (fares 1 ffchlr. 14, 29, 
22ISgr.> 

The Westphalia n Co a I - me a sit r e s are among the most pro- 
ductive in the world, extending to the E. from the Rhine a? far as Unna 
and Camen , about 32 M. in length and 9 — 14 BL in width, and yie]ding 
10 — 12 million tons of coal annually. The innumerable chimneys on both 
sides of the line testify to the enormous industrial activity of the district. 
The population is very dense at places, frequently averaging 1800 per 
square Engl. mile. The produce of the mines , manufactories , foundries, 
etc.. is conveyed in different directions by this railway, as well as by the 
Rhenish and the CologneOIinden lines, all of which intersect this district. 
The dense network of rails connecting these lines with the various in- 
dustrial establishments is without parallel in Germany. 

Duisburg (Europaischer Hof; Ho f von Holland ; Prinz-Regent ; 
Rheinischer Hof ). a very ancient town, situated near the Rhine and 
the Ruhr, with both of which it is connected by a canal, was from 
1145 to 1201 an Imperial town, then a member of the Hanseatic 
league, and down to 1818 the seat of a university founded in 1655. 
It is now a rapidly increasing manufacturing place, with 30.519 
inhab.. and one of the chief depots of the Ruhr coal traffic (about 
800.000 tons annually, see above). The * Salvatorkirche , of the 
15th cent., was restored in 1850. 

The line runs for a short way parallel with the Cologne-Minden 
line (to Oberhausen . p. 13). then turns to the r. . crosses the Ruhr 
near stat. Mulheim (Hotel Middendorf) , a prettily situated town, 
the junction of the Rhenish Railway (to Osterath , Essen, and Wat- 
tenscheid, p. 33), and reaches stat. 



ESSEN. 



6, Route. 37 



Essen (Sauer; Holtgen), a town with 51,246 inhab. , founded 
at the end of the 9th cent. Being the central point of a great coal- 
mining district, it has increased rapidly within the last few years 
(in 1854 there were 10,488 inhab. only), and is surrounded by 
lofty chimneys in every direction. About 40,000 miners are em- 
ployed in the vicinity, and an extensive and rapidly increasing 
iron-industry has also recently sprung up. The coal-begrimed streets, 
most of which are narrow and crooked, offer little attraction to the 
traveller. The *Munsterkirche, founded by Bishop Alfred of Hildes- 
heim, and consecrated in 873 , is one of the most ancient churches 
in Germany. The W. choir, with an octagon resembling that of the 
cathedral of Aix-la-Chapelle, dates from the close of the 9th cent. 5 
the nave was completed in 1316, the choir in 1445 ; and the whole 
edifice was restored in 1855. 

It contains a curicais old brazen candelabrum with seven branches in 
front of the high choir, presented in 998 by the Abbess Mechtildis, daughter 
of Otho II. ; four golden crosses richly garnished with jewels, two of them 
presented by the Abbess Alhaidis , daugther of Otho I., in 974, the third 
probably by Mechtildis, and the fourth by the Abbess Theophanu (d. 1060) 5 
a book of the Gospels with a covering of gold and artistically carved 
ivory, another gift of Theophanu. The Cloisters, partly in the Romanesque 
style of the 11th cent., and partly dating from the period of transition in 
the 12th , were restored in 1850. Fine Altar-piece , painted by JBarih. de 
Bruyn in 1522. 

Near the town are Krupp's Cast Steel Works , a vast establish- 
ment of European celebrity. The tallest of the numerous chimneys 
belongs to a huge steam hammer, 50 tons in weight. The factory, to 
which visitors are not admitted, employs 7000 workmen and supplies 
many of the principal railway and steamboat companies in Europe 
with rails , wheels , etc. , as well as several of the great powers of 
Europe with steel-guns , of an aggregate weight of 65,000 tons. 
There are 240 steam-engines of 8500 horse-power , 50 steam-ham- 
mers, and 420 furnaces in constant operation. 

Essen is also a station on the Rhenish Railway , as well as on 
the Cologne -Minden line (stat. Altenesseri). It is Y2 M. from the 
latter, but is connected with it by a branch line. 

Next stat. Steele (Tappe), an old town with 5300 inhab. , the 
junction of the line to Vohwinkel (p. 40) and of that to Kupfer- 
dreh and Dusseldorf. At Konigs-Steele , near the station, are the 
extensive foundries of Neu-Schottland. 

Stat. Bochum (Kaiserl. Hof; Mettegang), with 21,193 inhab., 
is a busy manufacturing place, on the W. side of which is situated 
the imposing Bochum Steel Works, one of the largest establishments 
of the kind in Germany next to Krupp's. 

Stat. Langendreer, the junction of the line to Witten and Ha- 
gen (p. 38); then Marten and 

Dortmund (* Wencker-Paxmann ; Middendorf :i 'Bellevue, at the 
station), a town with 44,454 inhab., the most important in West- 
phalia, is the central point of a mining-district, with numerous 
foundries, and the head-quarters of the mining authorities of West- 



38 Route 7. 



DORTMUND. 



phalia. It is at the same time one of the most ancient places in 
this part of the country, having been founded as early as the 10th 
cent., and frequently chosen for imperial diets and ecclesiastical 
assemblies. It subsequently became a fortified Hanseatic town, 
and in 1387 — 88 successfully resisted a siege of 21 months by the 
Archbishop of Cologne and other princes. After the Thirty Years' 
War, however, the place lost its importance. The greater part of 
the massive walls has been removed, and the town now wears a mo- 
dernised aspect. Two of the churches only deserve inspection : St. 
Reinoldi, of the 13th cent., choir 1421 — 50, and the adjoining lofty 
Marienhirche of the same period, containing a picture of the "West- 
phalian school of the 15th cent. 

The Vehmgerich a celebrated Secret Tribunal, was founded in West- 
phalia after the fall of Henry the Lion, at a time when anarchy and law- 
lessness prevailed throughout Germany, and in the 14th and 15th centuries 
had extended its sway over the whole empire. The number of the initiated, 
bound by the most fearful oaths to execute the decrees of the tribunal, is 
said to have exceeded 100.000. In Westphalia alone the Freigraf, or presi- 
dent, was privileged to hold meetings for receiving new members. Dort- 
mund was the seat of the supreme court, and here, in the '■Konigshof under 
the Lindens\ the Emp. Sigismund was himself initiated in 1429. Latterly, 
however, the tribunal degenerated to little more than a kind of police- 
court , before which the inhabitants of Dortmund and the neighbourhood 
carried their grievances. The last' session held by this society here was 
in 1803. 

Two of the lime-trees in the Konigshof at Dortmund still exist, 
and are believed to be upwards of 400 years old. They stand on a 
slight eminence, to the W. of the station, by a stone table on which 
the drawn sword and willow noose of the Yehmgericht were placed 
during the sitting of the tribunal. 

7. From Dortmund to Cologne by Hagen and 
Elberfeld. 

R a ilwau ('Bersdsch-Markisch") in 3— 3 l \ 2 hrs. ; fares 2 Thlr. 20, 2 Thlr. 
1, 1 Thlr. 10 Sgr. 

Stations Barop, Annen, and Witten (* Voss ; Heinemann, at the 
station), a manufacturing town with busy coal -traffic and iron 
w orks, the junction for Langendreer and Bochum (see above). On 
the Ruhr, about 6 M. below it , lies the charmingly situated little 
town of Blankenstein , the finest point of the lower valley of the 
Ruhr. 

The train crosses the Ruhr. Picturesquely situated on the 1. 
bank lies the village of Volmarstein, with a ruined castle and a line 
view ; then on the r. bank the hamlet of Wetter , where an exten- 
sive ruined castle has been converted into a machine-factory. The 
train skirts the Kaiserberg , on which Charlemagne is said once to 
have had a camp ; the tower at the top was erected in 1869 to the 
memory of the Prussian minister Baron Stein. Stat. Herdecke lies 
at the confluence of the Yolme and the Ruhr. To the N.E- rises 
the precipitous Ardey-Gebirge. 



ISERLOHN. 



7. Route. 39 



Among the Ardey - Gebirge , 4 1 |«2 M. to the N. of Herdecke , rises the 
Hohen-Syburg, once the chief stronghold of the Saxon duke Wittekind, 
the sturdy and persevering opponent of Charlemagne. The tower on the 
summit was erected to the memory of Baron v. Vincke , a president of 
Westphalia (d. 1844). Restaurant adjacent. The ruins are of mediaeval 
origin. 

The train crosses the Yolme and reaches Hagen (Hotel Lunen- 
s chlos s ; FlusSj Stein, both at the station), a manufacturing town 
with 13,000 inhab. , and the junction for Cassel (see Baedeker s N. 
Germany) and Siegen. 

The Railway from Hagen to Siegen (in 3^2 hrs. ; 2 Thlr. 25, 
2 Thlr. 4, 1 Thlr. 13 Sgr.) which connects the manufacturing region of 
the Lenne with the coal-measures of the Ruhr, runs to the N. for a short 
distance in the valleys of the Volme and the Ruhr , and then turns to the 
S. at the foot of the Hohen-Syburg , into the picturesque and populous 
valley of the Lenne, which it follows as far as Altenhundem. First stat. 
Kabel. On a hill to the r. near Limburg rises a column to the memory 
of a Prince Bentheim. Limburg ( Holtschmidt , by the bridge) , a prettily 
situated town, is commanded by the chateau of Prince Bentheim, situ- 
ated on a precipitous wooded height, and commanding a fine view. Stat. 
Letmathe. 

[From Letmathe to Is erlohn by a branch-line in 10 — 18 min. 
(fares 6, 4, 2^2 Sgr.). Stat. Dechenhdhle, see below. 

Iserlohn (Welter; Sander), a manufacturing town of some im- 
portance, with 15,000 inhab. (3000 Rom. Cath.),the chief products of which 
are iron and bronze wares, needles, and wire. The picturesque environs 
are crowded with workshops of every kind. 

At the Grime, an inn (Griirmann) on the Lenne between Iserlohn and 
Letmathe, rise two detached rocks termed the 'Pater 1 and the 'Nonne 1 , 
near which is the Griirmannshdhle , a cavern containing numerous fossil 
remains of antediluvian animals. In the vicinity is a zinc and brass 
foundry, the cadmia used at which is also obtained here. On the railway 
(see above), 10 min. to the E. of the Grime, is situated the highly inter- 
esting *Dechenh6hle, a stalactite cavern discovered in 1868 (cards of ad- 
mission, 7^2 Sgr. each, should be purchased at the station) , lighted with 
gas, and extending about 300 yds. into the hill.] 

Stat. Altena ( Klin eke , beyond the bridge; Quitmann , in the town) is 
a very picturesquely situated little town , with the ancestral Schloss of 
the Counts von der Mark, which commands an admirable view. Stations 
Werdohl, Plettenberg, Finnentrop, Grevenbriick, and Altenhundem, where the 
line enters the Hun dem- Thai. At Welschen-Ennest the watershed of the 
Rahrbacher Hbhe (1312 ft.) is penetrated by means of a tunnel , beyond 
which the train reaches Krevzthal and 

Siegen (*Goldner Lowe), a busy old mining town, with 10,000 inhab., 
with two castles of the Princes of Nassau-Siegen who became extinct in 
1743. Rubens was born here while his parents were temporarily absent 
from Antwerp, their native place. 

At Betzdorf the line unites with the Cologne and Giessen railway 
(R. 8). 

The line now ascends the broad and industrious valley of the 
Ennepe. The stream turns the machinery of numerous iron-hammers, 
where sithes, sickles, and shovels are largely manufactured. A 
kind of axe for felling the sugar-cane is also made here for export. 
At stat. Haspe are extensive puddling works and rolling-mills. 
Beyond stat. Gevelsberg , which consists of a long row of detached 
houses, the train crosses the Ennepethnl by embankments and a 
viaduct 100 ft. in height. Pleasing glimpse up the valley to the 
1. Stat. Milspe , then a long cutting near the Schwelmer Brunnen. 



40 BouU 7 



ELBERFELD. 



Beyond Schwelni (Eosenkranz: Prinz von Preussen) , a town with 
5600 inhab. . the line quits the County of Mark, crosses the 
Wuppe r . and enters the Duchy of Berg. The river anciently 
formed the boundary between Saxony and Franconia , and now 
separates Westphalia from the Rhine-land. The line skirts the E. 
side of the valley. Stat. Rittershausen. 

Barmen (Hotel Vogler ; Vereinshaus, both at the station ; Zur 
Pfalz ; Schutzerthaus J , with a number of formerly detached villages, 
and Eiberfeld (Hotel Bloem zum Weidenhof ; Victoria; Post; Ernst: 
Mainzer Hof; Rheinischer Hof; Falkenberg) , which begins at 
the bridge over the "\V upper, now form an uninterrupted succession 
of manufactories and dwelling-houses, about 5 M. in length. The 
sister towns . which have risen to importance since the middle of 
last century, now contain 146.849 inhab. (Barmen 75.074. Eiber- 
feld 71.775). The manufactories here are very numerous and 
extensive, their chief products being calico, silk, ribbons. Turkey- 
red dyed goods, soap, candles, and chemicals. The ^Belvedere auf 
der Haardt (or "Elisenhohe"). '20 min. from Eiberfeld, adorned with 
a statue of St. Suitbert , the apostle of this district , commands a 
good survey of the environs. On its way from the station of Barmen 
to that of Eiberfeld , the train passes an iron monument to Fre- 
derick William III. 

From Eiberfeld to D Us s el do rf by railway in 1 lir. (23 , 17, 
12 Sgr.): stations Vohwmtel, Haan (see below), Hochdahl, Erirath, Ger- 
reshtim, Diisseldorf (p. 13). 

The Cologne railway crosses the Wuppei and quits the valley 
of that river. Stations Vohwinkel (junction of the line to Steele, 
an important coal-railway"). Haan. Ohligs-Wald (branch-line in 1 4 
hr. to S cling en . an important manufacturing place). LeicMingen, 
Opladen. Sehlebusch . and Mulheim (p. 15). whence the line runs 
parallel with the Cologne and Minden line to Deutz (p. 32); the 
station is outside the Feldthor. 20 min. from the Central Station at 
Cologne (Omnibus see p. 16). 

8. From Cologne to Frankfurt by Giessen. 

Comp. Map, p. 32. 

Railway to Giessen in 5*| 4 hrs. (fares 4 Thlr. 12*f 2 , 2 Thlr. 28»| 2 , 2 
Thlr. 6 1 2 Sgr.) : Giessen to Frankfurt express in 1 hr.' 33 min. , ordinary 
trains l3j 4 — 2*| 2 hrs. (fares 1 Thlr. 23. 1 Thlr. 6. 22 Sgr.). 

The train starts from Deutz. and traverses a fiat country at some 
distance from the Rhine. The great annual gunnery and rifle 
practice of the 8th corps of the Prussian army takes place in June 
and July on the Wahner Heide . an extensive plain, l /o M. to the 
E. of stat. Wahn. To the 1. the modern Gothic church of Spiech. 
Beyond stat. Troisdorf. where the Right -Rhenish line diverges 
(p. 53), the line crosses the Agger, on the bank of which to the r. 
is situated an extensive iron-foundry. 



WETZLAR. 



8. Route. 4i 



Stat. Siegburg (* Stern), with 4750 inhab. , lies pleasantly 
on the slope of a hill at the confluence of the Agger and the Sieg. 
Above it rise the buildings of an old Benedictine Abbey, now a 
Lunatic Asylum. The Romanesque abbey-church, erected in 1183, 
and restored in the 17th cent. , contains the tomb of St. Anno II. 
(d. 1075), Archbishop of Cologne, the stern guardian of Emp. 
Henry IY. — Branch-line from Siegburg to Friedrich-Wilhelms- 
Hiitte, see p. 53. 

After crossing the Sieg , a view of the Seven Mts. to the r. is 
obtained. Stat. Hennef. The castle of Allner , the property of the 
oculist Dr. Mooren of Diisseldorf, adjoining the wood to thel., stands 
at the confluence of the Broel and the Sieg. Farther on , to the L, 
the monastery of Boding en, surrounded by vineyards-, then, on the 
opposite side, the village and castle of Blankenberg (Honrath). Beyond 
stat. Eitorf (*Post; Gerlach) a retrospect is obtained of the mona- 
stery of Merten on the hill to the r. Pleasant excursion from Eitorf 
to the top of the Hohenstein (Y2 nr 0? anc ^ *° tne Schaden (1 hr.), 
the highest point in the neighbourhood , commanding a tine view 
(guide 7Y2 Sgr.). The wooded hills enclosing the valley now in- 
crease in height. Near stat. Windeck , with the castle of that name 
on the hill to the L, the railway and high road pass through a deep 
cutting. Stations Schladern (diligence twice daily to Waldbroel) , Au 
(diligence twice daily to Altenkirchen), and Wissen. A little farther, 
on the opposite bank of the Sieg, rises the old chateau of Schonstein, 
the property of Prince Hatzfeld-Wildenburg. 

At Betzdorf the line divides : that to the 1. runs to Siegen (in 
Y2 hr., see p. 39); that to the r. to Giessen. 

The line to Wetzlar and Giessen ascends the valley of the Heller 
to stations Herdorf, Neunkirchen, and Burbach , crosses the water- 
shed between the Heller and the Dill near Wiirgersdorf, and threads 
its way through the Hickengrund. It next enters the Dillthal. Stat. 
Haiger; then Dillenburg (Post; Hirsch) , a picturesque town with 
the ruins of a castle of that name, in which William of Orange, 'the 
Taciturn', the liberator of the Netherlands, was born in 1533. Her- 
born (Bitter), with an old castle, now a seminary; then Sinn. Be- 
yond stat. Ehring shausen the line enters the Lahnthal , and unites 
with the Nassovian Railway (from Lahnstein to Wetzlar, p. 146). 

Wetzlar (*'Herzogliches Haus ; Solmser Hof , unpretending), 
once a free imperial town, is picturesquely situated on the Lahn, 
commanded by the ruin of * Kalsmunt, which with the * Metzeburg 
are the finest points in the environs. The 'Heidenthurm', the most 
ancient and finest (N.W.) part of the* Cathedral, was erected in the 
11th cent. ; the remainder dates from the 14th — 16th. Goethe re- 
sided at Wetzlar for some months in 1772, and various events here 
and in the environs suggested his 'Sorrows of Werther'. 

The original of Werther was a certain Herr Jerusalem , secretary to 
the embassy, who shot himself in a house (with two bow-windows) in 



42 Route 6'. 



GIESSEN. 



the Schiller-Platz . near the Franciscan church. The Deutsche Hans, or 
Lodge of the Teutonic Order (now a barrack, reached by the street to the 
1. of the new guard-house, opposite the S. transept of the cathedral) was 
the residence of Charlotte's father, named Buff, the manager of the estates 
of the Order, and still contains a room with a few memorials of her. Out- 
side the TVildbacher Thor (reached by the street between the two barracks 
and past the churchyard) is the 'Werther Brunnen", shaded by a vener- 
able lime-tree, a favourite resort of Goethe, by whom the pretty envir- 
ons of Wetzlar haA'e been hiiihlv extolled. A pleasant road ascends on 
the 1. bank of the Lahn to (i 1 2 M.) Garbenheim , the Wahlheim of Wer- 
ther. situated on a hill commanding a pleasant view of the valley. Most 
of the old houses in the -Werther-Platz" in front of the church were burn- 
ed down in 1S66. A monument here marks a favourite seat of the poet. 
The traveller may return by the Garbenheim watch-tower, commanding 
a fine view. On the slope of a hill, 3 M. from Wetzlar, lies the pleasant 
village of Volpertshausen, in a house in which (formerly a shooting-lodge, 
now a school) the ball described in Werther took place. 

The line now ascends the Lahn, crosses the frontier of Hessen- 
Darmstadt near Dutenhofen . and unites with the Main- Weser line 
at Giessen ; the ruins of Gleiberg and Fetzberg are seen on the 1. 

Giessen (* Kuhne. near the station. R. from 48 kr. . B. 24 kr. ; 
*Einhorn; Rappe ; Prinz Carl ; beer and line view at the Felsen- 
keller), on the Lahn. a town chiefly of modern origin , with 10,241 
inhab.. is the seat of a university, founded in 1607(400 stud.). 

About 3 M. to the 1. of stat. Rutzbach rise the extensive ruins 
of the castle of Mi'mzenberg . destroyed in the Thirty Years' War. 
The higher (154 ft.*) of the two towers commands a tine view. 

Nauheim (* Bellevue ; Hotel de V Europe; Hotel Krbll; Hotel 
Henckel: Deutscher Hof). with a saline spring (93° Fahr.) used for 
baths, situated on the N.E. slopes of the Taunus Mts. , attracts a con- * 
siderable number of patients. The milky and foaming mineral water 
of the warm fountain rises in a jet 8 — 10 ft. in height. The 
wooded Johannisberg. 20 min. from the Cursaal, surmounted by the 
tower of an ancient monastery, commands an extensive prospect. 
At its foot, opposite the station, is the Conversationshaus , with 
concert and reading rooms. At the E. extremity of the town, 
near the old Curhaus. is the Trinkhalle. 

Friedberg (Hotel Trapp ; Simon), once a free Imperial town, 
surrounded by walls of considerable extent, possesses two handsome 
Gothic churches. On the N. side stands a line, well-preserved watch- 
tower : near it the beautiful Palace garden. 

As the train approaches Frankfort, the Taunus Mts. are seen on 
the r. — Ronames is the station for the baths of Homburg. 



Frankfort, see R. 26. 

9. The Rhine from Cologne to Bonn. 




Comp. Map, p. 32. 

Rail wag, express in 40 rnin.. ordinary in 1 hr. ; fares 20, 15, 10 Sgr. 
— Steamboat 2 1 2 hrs. (down ii 4 hr.), fares 8 or 5 Sgr. — Cabs, etc. at 
Cologne, see p. 17. 

N. B. In the following routes r. and 1. indicate the position of towns, 
villages, etc. with regard to the traveller ascending the river. 



BONN. 



9. Route. 43 



As the majestic city of Cologne , with its cathedral , numerous 
towers, and lofty bridge, gradually disappears, the chateau of Bens- 
berg, now a Prussian military school, on an eminence 9 M. to the 
1. , comes in sight. At the foot of the building is a monu- 
ment, erected by the Emperor of Austria in 1854 , to the memory 
of 2000 Austrian soldiers who fell at Jemappes in 1794. About % 
M. to the E. rises the Erdenburg , a hill surmounted by remnants 
of a wall, believed to be of ancient Germanic origin. A few miles 
farther up is (1.) Mondorf, at the old influx of the Sieg. Opposite 
the island of Graupeniverth, at the mouth of the Sieg , lies Grau- 
Rheindorf. On the hill-side , 9 M. from the confluence of the Sieg 
and Rhine, lies the ancient Benedictine Abbey of Siegburg (p. 41). 

On the 1. the traveller soon perceives the church of Schwarz- 
Rheindorf, a curious structure, consisting of two storeys, one above 
the other, consecrated in 1511 by Archbishop Arnold of Wied. Be- 
neath the dome is an octagonal aperture between the storeys, 10 ft. 
in diameter , so that persons in the upper can distinctly hear the 
service performed in the lower. The object of this singular arrange- 
ment has never been satisfactorily explained. Interesting mural 
paintings of the 12th cent, were discovered in the lower church a 
few years ago during the restoration of the building. The exterior 
is also worthy of inspection, especially the remarkably elegant mi- 
niature gallery which runs round the upper part of the church on 
the E. side. To the r. is the Jesuitenhof, then the Wichelshof (p. 
44). As the steamboat approaches Bonn , the charms of the sce- 
nery of the Rhine gradually begin to present themselves. The lofty 
tower of the Miinster, the handsome residences on the Rhine above 
the town, the long buildings of the University peeping from among 
the trees, and the grounds of the 'Alte Zoll' give an attractive aspect 
to the town, when viewed from the steamboat. 

Bonn. Hotels. Star (PI. a), in the market-place. Outside the Cob- 
lenzer Thor, with gardens on the Rhine : *Royal Hotel (PI. b) 5 at both 
of these, R. 20—30, B. 10, L. 6, A. 8 Sgr. 5 *Bellevue (PI. c) , R. 16—20, 
B. 8, L. 5, A. 6 Sgr. \ *Hotel Klet (PI. d), also a restaurant and board- 
ing-house, pension 1*J 2 Thlr. per diem and upwards. — *Rheineck (PI. e), 
opposite the steamboat pier, R. 20, D. 20, A. 6 Sgr. — *Rheinischer Hof 
(PI. f), * Schwan (PI. g), and Braun's Hotel (PI. h) near the station, 
second class. — Hotel Garni: Roller, Quantius-Str. 5 Erzgraber, Coblen- 
zer-Str. 

Restaurants. *Perrin, Wenzelgasse; Clotith, Sandkaul; Breuer, in the 
Markt. — Cafes. Schweizer Kaffehaus, next the Jesuits 1 church-, Laubinger^ 
confectioner in the market-place, opposite the Star Hotel. — Beer : Voss, 
Wenzelgasse; Nettekoven^ Neugasse 2; Ruland, Stocken-Str. 

Newspapers and restaurant in the Lese - and Erholvngs-Gesellschaft, 
opposite the University 5 the Academic Reading-room contains upwards of 
200 newspapers and periodicals ; visitors are introduced to either of these 
by a member. 

Baths. Cold baths in the Rhine 3 Sgr. On the r. bank , Swimming- 
Bath 5 Sgr. ; after 5 p. m. boats cross every J | 2 hr. at the upper end of 
the town. 

Carriages. For a drive in the town, 1 — 2 pers. 5, each additional pers. 
2i| 2 Sgr., box 1 Sgr. 5 i| 2 hr. 10— 12 1 J 2 Sgr. 



44 Route 9. 



BONN. 



Vniversity. 



Railway Station near the Poppelsdorf Avenue (p. 46). 

Telegraph Office. Fiirsten-Sirasse 3S 1 2- 

English Church Service at the University Church. 

Chief Attractions. Visitors whose time is limited should see the ex- 
terior of the Munster (p. 46), 3Ionument of Beethoven (p. 46), Collection 
of Rhenish and Westphalian antiquities (p. 45), frescoes in the Aula 
(p. 45). Museum at Poppelsdorf (p. 46), view from the Kreuzberg (p. 47), 
and the 4 Alte Zoll* (p. 45). 

Bonn, a town with 26.244 inhab. . the seat of the Friedrich 
Wilhelm University, which was founded on 18th Oct., 1818. is pleas- 
antly situated on the W. bank of the Khine . at the N. entrance to 
the narrower and more picturesque part of the valley of the river. 
It has recently become a very prosperous place . and a favourite re- 
sidence of English and other visitors. "Whole streets of handsome 
buildings, especially on the W. andS. sides, have sprung up within 
the last twenty or thirty years . while the confined interior of the 
town has been materially improved. The lanes on the N. side form 
the oldest part of the town, but the numerous sieges which it has 
sustained have spared but few of the picturesque old houses. 

Bonn , the Bonnet , or Castra Bonnensia of the Romans , frequently 
mentioned by Tacitus, was one of the first Roman fortresses on the Rhine, 
probably founded by Drusus. and the head-quarters of the 1st , 15th, 21st, 
and 22nd Legions. The Roman Castrum stood at the end of the fcteiniceg 
(Heerweg, or Bruchiceg) at the Wichelsho/^ to the y. of the town, as prov- 
ed by excavations made in 1818. In TO A. D. Claudius Civilis , leader of 
the Batavi. who had taken up arms against the Romans, forced his way 
as far as Bonn, and gained a victory here, the Bonnense proeUum of Taci- 
tus (.Hist. IV. 20). Under the later Roman emperors the town was much 
injured by the predatory expeditions of the Alemanni and Franks, and by 
persecutions of the Christians. 

In the middle ages Bonn was a place of little importance until 1267, 
when Archbishop Engelbert of Cologne transferred his residence and seat 
of government hither. The German kings Frederick of Austria (1314) and 
Charles IV. (1346) were crowned in the Miinster. 

The Protestant tendencies of Hermann of Wied and Gebhard of 
Waldburg. Archbishops of Cologne in the 16th cent., principally mani- 
fested by the latter in his marriage with the nun Agnes of Mansfeld, for 
which he was declared apostate and banished from his Electorate, brought 
Bonn into great trouble. In the Dutch War of Independence, in the 
Thirty Years" War. and especially in the Spanish War of Succession. Bonn 
suffered repeatedly from sieges. That of 16S9 was conducted by Elector 
Frederick DDL of Brandenburg (King Fred. I.) at the head of the Impe- 
rial and allied troops. Marlborough and other celebrated generals took 
part about the same time in the opejations against the town. The fortifi- 
cations were finallv dismantled in 1/17, in accordance with the Peace of 
Rastatt. 

Under the Electors of the 18th cent. Bonn rose to great opulence, 
and one of them founded an Academy in 1777. elevated to a University 
seven years later by his successor. On 7th Oct., 1794, the French march- 
ed into the town, and in 1797 the university was closed by their orders. 

Under the French Bonn suffered much , and its population decreased 
from 9500 to 7500, but since its recovery by the Prussians in 1815 and the 
foundation of the university, it has gradually recovered. 

The Schloss (PI. 25) erected as an electoral residence in 1717 — 
1730. and partially rebuilt after a fire in 1777 . is now the seat of 
the University, occupying more than half the S. side of the town 
(600 yds. in length), and presenting a very handsome appearance. 
On the E. side the Coblenz . or St. Michael s Gate leads through the 



Alte Zoll. 



BONN. 



9. Route, 45 



building. It contains the lecture-rooms of the different faculties 
and a well-arranged library of 200,000 vols. , adorned with busts 
(Niebuhr, Schlegel, Arndt, etc.), a valuable Numismatic Collection 
(4000 Greek and Roman coins), Museum of Antiquities (see below), 
Physical Cabinet, admirable Clinical Institution , and the Aula or 
Hall, with frescoes emblematical of the faculties of theology , juris- 
prudence, medicine, and philosophy, painted by Cornelius and his 
pupils, 1824 — 35. The door-keeper lives under the university- 
halls, to the 1. (fee Sgr.). The library, the Academical Museum 
of Art, and the Museum of Antiquities are always accessible (fee 10 
Sgr. for 1 pers., 20 Sgr. for a party). The old chapel of the Elec- 
toral palace is now a Prot. place of worship. Church of England 
service is performed here on Sundays. 

The Academical Museum of Art (PI. 6), containing casts , sta- 
tues, basreliefs, gems, etc., admirably arranged by the late Professor 
Jahn (d. 1869), and recently greatly extended, is now established 
in the old riding-school. 

The Museum of Antiquities is an extensive collection of monu- 
ments and other objects of the Roman period, found in the Rhenish 
province and Westphalia , and greatly enriched by excavations at 
the Wichelshof (p. 43). 

A very interesting Roman altar, dedicated to Victory, 6 ft. in height, 
hewn out of shell-limestone, bears the inscription ''Deae victoriae sacrum\ 
and is decorated with high-reliefs ; it was formerly believed to be identi- 
cal with the Ara Ubioriim, mentioned by Tacitus. The inscriptions on 
the various monuments embrace almost the entire field of Roman mytho- 
logy, while some of them contain allusions to the Gallic, and even to the 
ancient German religious rites. One of great historical importance is that 
on the tombstone of Marcus Cselius , in which the battle of the Teuto- 
burgian Forest (helium Varianum) is mentioned; a Greek gravestone, found 
at Bonn, is also very remarkable. The entrance-hall contains a number 
of ancient and mediaeval capitals. 

On the S. side of the university, to the r. of the Coblenz Gate, 
lies the Hofgarten, the pleasant grounds of Avhich are shaded with 
fine old avenues. On the S. side of the grounds is the Anatomy 
Building, containing lecture-rooms, collections, etc. 

To the E. (1.) of the Coblenz Gate the promenades of the Hof- 
garten terminate in an old bastion termed the *Alte Zoll (PI. 1), 
rising immediately above the Rhine, and commanding a fine view 
of the river and its opposite bank; of Beuel, which is connected 
with Bonn by means of a flying-bridge and a steam-ferry, of Bens- 
berg (p. 31) , of Siegburg (p. 30), and above all of the Seven Mts. 
A Monument (PI. 3) to the poet Ernst Moritz Arndt (d. 1860), in 
bronze, was erected here in 1865. The figure leans with the left 
hand upon a trunk of oak , whilst the right is pointing towards the 
Rhine. 

The Fountain in the Market was erected by the citizens in 1777 
in honour of the last Elector of Cologne but one, in consequence of 
Ms zealous defence of the rights of the archiepiscopal see , his pro- 



46 Route 9. 



Poppelsdorfer Sehloss. 



vident measures when a famine was imminent, and his public spirit 
in erecting a poor-house and founding the academy. 

The *Munster(Pl. i'2). a cruciform church with two choirs, four 
small towers, and a lofty octagonal principal tower over the cross, is 
an imposing and picturesque example of the transition style. It 
was formerly an archdeanery of St. Cassius and St. Florentius. and. 
like many Rhenish churches . traces its foundation to Constantine, 
having been, it is said, founded by St. Helena, the pious mother of 
the emperor. A Statue in bronze of the supposed foundress, a work 
of no great merit, executed in Italy at the beginning of last century, 
adorns the interior of the church. The choir, with its towers, the 
crypt, which a glass door separates from the choir, and the cloisters 
with tastefully decorated pillars date from 1157. the remainder of 
the edifice from the early part of the 13th cent. ; the whole was 
restored in 1847. The interior only contains two Basreliefs worth 
inspection, the Nativity and Baptism of Christ over the altars to the 
r. Not far from the chief portal is the Sarcophagus of Archbishop 
Engelbert von Falkenburg (^d. i'274). The ancient chapter-house 
adjoining the church is now the cure's residence. 

The other churches offer few attractions. The Gothic Minoriten- 
kirclie ( PI. 14), with cloisters dating from the beginning of the 14th 
rent., contains an altar-piece, representing the baptism of Clovis by 
St. Remigius. and a tine organ. The Gothic Herz-Jesu-Kirche (PI. 
17), erected in 1862, contains good stained-glass, designed by 
Steinle. By the Hofgarten . to the r. on the way from the station 
to the town . stands the Gothic *Prot. Church (PI. 18), erected in 
1866—71. 

The bronze *Statue of Beethoven (PI. 41. in the Munsterplatz, 

was executel by Hahnel of Dresden, and inaugurated in presence 
of Queen Victoria in is45. The celebrated composer was born in 
the Bonngasse. No. 515. His father was a tenor - singer, and his 
grand-father (a native of Antwerp) band-master to the Elector. 
No. 7 Rheingasse (PI. 5) bears an inscription to the effect that the 
illustrious composer was born there, but the house was not occupied 
by his parents until after his birth. 

A gate to the S.E. of the Minister leads to the Hofgarten. and 
the "Poppelsdorfer Allee, the principal promenade of the town, a 
quadruple avenue of beautiful horse-chestnuts . l /o M. long. On 
the r. of the avenue is the Railway Station, and beyond it to the 1. 
the handsome Observatory (PI. "23) with its tower and six turrets, 
the former of which contains a magnificent heliometer (director Herr 
Argelander). 

The avenue is terminated by the Poppelsdorfer Sehloss (PI. A, 

1) . formerly a residence of the Electors. It now contains the 
* Natural History Collections, comprising 160,000 specimens; the 
minerals and fossils are particularly worthy of inspection, as they 
illustrate the geology of the Seven Mts. (R. 10) and Eifel (R. 24). 



Rveuzberg 



BONN. 



9. Route. 47 



The valuable Zoological Cabinet in the lofty saloons of the rotunda 
is also well arranged. The '■GrottensaaV , fitted up in the time of 
the Electors, contains models explanatory of mining operations, as 
well as small reliefs of the Rhine , Seven Mts. , &c. , which may be 
purchased. Custodian's lodge 1. of the entrance (fee T 1 /^, for a 
party 15 — 20 Sgr.). The Botanical Garden adjoining the palace 
(open Tuesd. and Frid. 3 — 7 , at other times fee as above) is well 
kept and contains extensive hot-houses. 

Opposite the Poppelsdorfer Schloss, on the N. side, rises the 
^Chemical Laboratory, completed in 1868, one of the most exten- 
sive and best organised in the world, occupying an area of nearly 
3000 sq. yds., exclusive of the courts. Adjacent are the buildings 
of the Agricultural Academy, fitted up in 1847, comprising lecture- 
rooms, collections, a laboratory, and the residence of the director. 

Above Poppelsdorf , M. from the Schloss, rises the *Kreuz- 
berg (400 ft.), crowned with a conspicuous white church. It 
originally belonged to a now suppressed monastery erected by Elector 
Ferdinand of Bavaria (d. 1650), and contains the '•Rol'u Steps', of 
Italian marble (in the chapel behind the altar) , constructed under 
Elector Clement Augustus (d. 1761). These steps, 28 in number, 
must only be ascended on the knees , and are an imitation of the 
Scala Santa at the Lateran , piously believed to be the identical 
steps of the Praetorium ascended by the Saviour when he appeared 
before Pilate. Beautiful view from the tower. 

Kessenich, a considerable village with pleasant country-houses, 
about iy 2 M. from Bonn, is reached by a road diverging from the 
middle of the Poppelsdorf Avenue to the 1. On the slope imme- 
diately above it rises the Rosenburg , a diminutive chateau with 
pretty grounds. The margin of the Kessenicher Schlucht, a gorge 
higher up , commands a charming *view of the Rhine , Godesberg, 
the Seven Mts. , etc. Another favourite point of view is the 
Dottendorfer Hdhe, a few minutes' walk farther in the direction of 
Godesberg. 

Endenich , a large village , with the extensive private lunatic 
asylum of Dr. Richarz , lies l/ 2 M. to the W. of Poppelsdorf, and 
iy 2 M. from Bonn by the high road issuing from the Sternthor. On 
this road, about */ 4 M. from the gate, is situated the well-kept 
^Cemetery (PI. D, 2, 3). If the principal E. gate be closed, visitors 
enter by a small gate to the r. 

Monuments. By the wall on the r. Monument of Niebuhr (d. 1831), 
erected by Fred. William IV. to his 'teacher and friend'; in front a re- 
lief in marble by Rauch, representing Niebuhr and his wife, being a copy 
of an ancient Roman tomb-relief preserved in the hall of the busts at the 
Vatican; above it a thorn-crowned Head of the Saviour. Farther along 
the same walk, on the r. , the monuments of Ernst von Schiller, son, and 
Charlotte von Lengefeld , widow of the poet. The jurist Mucleldey , the 
composer Schumann , and the poet Arndt and also interred here. The 
* Chap el in the middle of the cemetery is a beautiful Romanesque 
structure, built about 1200, transferred in 1847 from Ramersdorf (p. 54) to 
its present site. 



48 

10. The Seven Mountains (Siebengebirge). 

One day suffices to explore the most remarkable points in this district, 
unless the visit be for geological purposes. Konigswinter (a station on the 
Eight Rhenish and Left Rhenish railways, and also a steamboat station) is 
the usual starting point, but Honnef or Xieder-Dollendorf \ stations on the 
Right Rhenish line, may in some cases be more convenient. From Konigs- 
winter to the Drachenfels 3 \\ hr. ; thence to the Great Oelberg l 2 j ; 3 hr. •, and 
to Heisterbadi hr. more*, back to Konigswinter in 3 |4 hr., or to Xieder- 
DoUendorf in 20 min. — From Honne f to the Lowenburg hr. ; thence 
to the Great Oelberg l 1 ^ hr., and via Heisterbach to Konigswinter as above. 
In this case the Drachenfels is ascended last, from Konigswinter. — From 
Xieder-DoUendorf the excursion is the same as the first mentioned, but in 
the reverse direction. 

The paths having'.been improved, and way-posts erected by a society 
which has existed for a number of years for this purpose , travellers may 
generally dispense with the services of a guide. Tariff of guides and 
donkeys, see p. 49. 

The district of the *Seven Mountains extends 3 M. to the E. 
from tlie Rhine, and from N. to S. about 9 M., Konigswinter being 
the central point on the W. It consists of a group of peaks, cones, 
and long, rounded ridges, covered with forest and luxuriant herbage, 
all of which have been upheaved through the grauwacke by volcanic 
agency. 

'In consequence of a powerful, but local force in the interior of our 
planet, elastic gases either force up dome-shaped and unopened masses of 
trachyte mixed with felspar and dolerite (Puy de Dome, Seven Mis.) 
t h rough the earth's crust , or the raised strata are so broken through and 
inclined outwards that on the opposite inner sides a steep wall of rocks 
is formed. Humboldt. 

The Seven Mts. consist partly of trachyte (Drachenfels 1066 ft., 
Wolkenburg 1076 ft. , Lohrberg 1444 ft.), partly of basalt . a more 
recent formation (Oelberg 1522 ft. ; Lowenburg , of dolerite, 1505 
ft. : Nonnenstromberg ^ a ridge 300 yds. in length, 1105 ft.; Peters- 
berg 1096 ft.). These seven peaks, from which the mountains 
derive their name , are seen simultaneously only in the neighbour- 
hood of Cologne ; as Bonn is approached, the Lowenburg is hidden 
by the Nonnenstromberg. Besides these summits there are many 
others, such as the conical Hemmerich (1187 ft.), of trachyte, which 
overtops the lower mountains of the S. side, the Bosenau (1063 ft.), 
and the Stenzelberg (945 ft.) , which adjoins the Nonnenstromberg 
on the N. The view from the Drachenfels is the most picturesque, 
that from the Oelberg the most extensive (comprising even the 
Taunus). For the geologist this district is full of attraction (see 
above) , for the botanist less interesting. The former should not 
omit to provide himself with the admirable geological map by H. v. 
Dechen (scale 1 : 25,000). 

Konigswinter (150 ft.) (^European Hotel, ^Berlin Hotel, both 
opposite the pier, of the first class; Hotel Eieffel, in the principal street-, 
Dosseldoefek Hof; Zum Drachenfels; Rhein, a restaurant in the Haupt- 
Str. ; pension at *Schmitz*s, opposite the floating baths , and at Bonn's 
opposite the post-office) is a small modern town, inhabited principally 
by stone-cutters. The Mehlem railway station (p. 109) is on the 
opposite bank, M« from the river. 



DRACHENFELS. 



10. Route. 49 



Porterage. Travelling-bag from steamboat into the town l 1 ^, to Hon- 
nef (p. 52) 7i| 2 Sgr. , trunk into the town 2 1 | 2 , to Honnef 10 Sgr. Guide 
to the Drachenfels to carry small packages, and back, 10, to Heisterbach 
or the Petersberg 12^2, to the Oelberg, Lowenburg, or other hills 20 Sgr. 5 
Drachenfels and Lowenburg 25 Sgr. 5 for a whole day 1 Thlr. The guides 
are forbidden to demand more than the above charges. 

Donkeys. (Stand on the road to the Drachenfels , ^2 M. to the E. of 
the steamboat pier.) Drachenfels or Wolkenburg 12^2, Drachenfels and 
Wolkenburg 20, Heisterbach 15, Honnef 15, Petersberg 20, Lowenburg 20, 
Oelberg 20, Oelberg and Heisterbach 25 Sgr., for a whole day 1 Thlr. 
10 Sgr. If the traveller remain 1 — 2 hrs. at any of the above places, 
5 'Sgr. more must be paid for the ride back; for every additional hour 
2^2 Sgr.; for bringing the donkey to the door of the hotel, 2^2 Sgr. 
extra is charged. No additional fee need be paid. Horses generally 
5 — 10 Sgr. additional. — Small boat to Nonnenwerth and back 20 — 25 Sgr., 
inch stay of 1 hr. 1 Thlr. 5 to Bonn 20—25 Sgr. 

From Kbnig swinter to the D rachenfels. A new car- 
riage-road, which can hardly be mistaken, ascends, somewhat steeply 
at places , from the railway station at the lower end of the town to 
the summit in jU/2 nr - Pedestrians effect a considerable saving by 
following a footpath to the r. after crossing the railway, and proceed- 
ing in the direction of the tower. The traveller who arrives by steam- 
boat, or by the ferry from Mehlem (p. 55), follows the road between 
the two large hotels , crosses the main street and the railway , and 
ascends by the old bridle-path (past the donkey-stand , see above), 
which leads to the summit in 3 / 4 hr., part of the way through wood, 
on the side of the hill next to the Rhine. All these routes termin- 
ate on the Terrace (*Inn , R. from 20 Sgr., B. 7 l /% Sgr., pension 
IV2 Thlr.), a level rocky plateau about 100 ft. below the summit, 
embellished with a Gothic Obelisk commemorating the patriotic 
spirit of the Rhinelanders in the years 1813 — 15. 

The castle of ^Drachenfels, or 'dragon's rock', 916 ft. above the 
Rhine , which is reached in a few minutes from the plateau just 
mentioned , was erected by Arnold , Archbishop of Cologne , at the 
beginning of the 12th cent. , bestowed by him on the Cassius Mon- 
astery at Bonn in 1149 , and held as a fief from the latter by the 
counts of the castle. Henry , Count of Drachenfels (d. 1348) , fur- 
nished the chapter of the cathedral of Cologne with the stone for its 
construction from a quarry which still bears the name of Dombruch, 
or Cathedral quarry. The wine yielded by the vineyards on its slopes 
is known as Drachenblut , or Dragon's blood. In the Thirty Years' 
War the half-ruined castle was occupied by the Swedes , but taken 
from them by Duke Ferdinand of Bavaria, Elector of Cologne, who 
completed its destruction to avoid the necessity of garrisoning it. 

The Cavern among the vineyards , visible from the Rhine about 
half-way up the hill , is said once to have housed the dragon , slain 
by Sigfried , the hero from the Low Countries, who, having bathed 
himself in its blood, became invulnerable. 

*View. The summit commands one of the noblest prospects on 
the Rhine ; to the E. are seen several of the seven peaks , S.E. the 
basaltic heights at the back of Honnef, among them the Minderberg 

Baedeker's Rhine. 5th Edit. 4 



50 Route 10, 



OELBERG. 



The Seven 



(p. 58), and the Hemmerich (p. 56), gradually sloping down to the 
Rhine. Immediately below lie Rhondorf, Honnef , Rheinbreitbach, 
Unkel , and Erpel : on the 1. bank Remagen and the Gothic church 
on the Apollinarisberg , in the background the heights of the Eifel 
with the ruins of Olbruck and Tomberg ; in the vicinity Oberwinter, 
the islands of Grafenwerth and Nonnenwerth , and the arched ruin 
of Rolandseck. Farther to the r. the Kreuzberg, Bonn, and even 
Cologne are visible. The scene forcibly recals to the spectator the 
beautiful lines of Byron : 

'The castled crag of Draclienfels 
Frowns o'er the wide and winding Rhine, 
Whose "breast of waters broadly swells 
Between the hanks which bear the vine : 
And hills all rich with blossomed trees, 
And fields which promise corn and wine 
And scattered cities crowning these, 
Whose far white walls along them shine, 
Have strew"d a scene which I should see 
With double joy wert thou with me. 1 
From the Draclienfels to the Great Oelberg. The tra- 
veller at first follows the new road mentioned above , w T hich reaches 
the terrace on the E. side, down to the second bend, where a ringer- 
post on the r. points the way to Rhondorf and Honnef, and beyond 
it another indicates that to the Wolkenburg and the Lowenburg. 
By the latter path the Wolkenburg (1075 ft.) is reached in a few 
minutes. The ancient stronghold which once crowned the latter, 
and was assigned by the Archbishop Arnold I. as a p ; ace of refuge 
to the Jews banished from Cologne in the 12th cent., has long since 
been demolished to make way for the extensive quarries of trachyte 
which have been worked here for centuries. The path now de- 
scends in windings, the direction being indicated by numerous 
way-posts. After \ 'o hr. the path divides : that to the r. leads 
to the Lowenburg (j). 51) 5 that to the 1. to the (10 inin.) Mar- 
garethenkreuz (*Inn) , a cross bearing a relief of St. Margaret and 
the dragon. 

From the Ma r g a r eih enkr eu z to Konig sw inter (531.) a car- 
riage-road leads through the valley of the Mittelbach. About half-way, 
two broad patns diverge to the 1. to the quarries of the Ofenkaulen - Berg, 
which yield a trachyte conglomerate known as oven-stone. 

By the Margaretkenkreuz a way-post indicates the direction of 
the Oelberg. At the second cross-road (10 min.) the path turns to the 
r. (that in a straight direction leads to Heisterbacherrott, see below ; 
that to the 1. to the Nonnenstromberg and Petersberg), and ascends 
in 25 min. more to the summit of the *Great Oelberg (1522 ft.), 
a basaltic mountain which has been upheaved through the trachyte 
(small inn). The prospect from the summit is the most extensive 
on the lower Rhine ; foreground highly picturesque , differing in 
many respects from the view from the Draclienfels. The entire 
wooded tra ;t of the Seven Mts. lies like a map before the spectator ; 
the Khine glitters between the valleys which intersect its banks, 



LOWENBURG, 



10. Route. 51 



and its course may be traced as far as Cologne ; in the distance to 
the S. the Taunus, and N.E. the heights near Diisseldorf. 

If at the cross-way above mentioned, lOmin. from the Margarethen- 
kreuz, the traveller proceeds in a straight direction, he will in V4 nr « 
reach a carriage-road at three solitary houses , following which he 
will arrive in y 4 hr. more at Heisterbacherrott, a conspicuous point in 
the landscape. A broad road leads hence in y 2 nr - t0 tne venerable 
Cistercian Abbey of *Heisterbach (475 ft.) , situated in a beautiful 
valley termed the 'Heisterbacher Mantel'. The gate still bears the 
arms of the abbey, a Heister (young oak) and a Bach (brook) 5 atthe 
side stand St. Benedict and St.Bernhard (comp.p.99) as guardians. 
Of the once magnificent abbey church, erected in the transition 
style in 1202 — 1233, the external part of the choir, with its slender 
basaltic pillars , is alone extant , forming a singularly picturesque 
ruin. The Abbey itself was sold and almost entirely removed in the 
early part of the present century , and the stones were employed in 
constructing the locks on the Nord- Canal (p. 35). Some of the 
finest old German pictures in the Pinakothek at Munich were brought 
from Heisterbach. Refreshments at the farm-buildings. The abbey- 
lands are the property of Count zur Lippe. 

The road by which the traveller has reached Heisterbach leads 
in a straight direction to the Nieder- Dollendorf railway - station 
(pp. 53, 54), I1/2 M. distant. 

From He isterbach to Konig sw inter. The well trodden 
path leads from the gate of the Abbey to the 1. , and then along the 
N. andW. slopes of the Petersberg (1096 ft.), the summit of which 
is crowned with a chapel commanding a fine view and a restaurant 
with whey-cure. It traverses the wood and finally vineyards , and 
reaches Konigswinter in 40 min. 

The above round embraces the finest points among the Seven 
Mts., but a visit to the Lowenburg and (for geologists) the Stenzel- 
berg is also attractive. 

The Ascent of the Lowenburg may easily be combined as 
follows with the excursion already described. At the bifurcation of 
the path, y 2 nr « to the E. of the Wolkenburg (comp. p. 50), the 
traveller turns to the r. (see way-post) , and in y 2 nr - more reaches 
the Lowenburger Hof, a forester's house with a restaurant , whence 
the top is attained after a somewhat steep ascent of 20 min. (ascent 
from Rhondorf see p. 52, from Honnef see p. 52). 

The * Lowenburg (1505 ft.), an extensive ruined castle on a 
wooded peak consisting of dolerite (a volcanic product, which must 
have been ejected in a liquid state , and now overlies the trachyte 
and grauwacke) , visible from the Rhine, was once the scene of the 
conferences of Hermann , Elector of Cologne and Count of Wied, 
with the reformers Melanchthon and Bucer, before he became a con- 
vert to Protestantism in 1541 (p. 44). Here, too, in the troublous 
times of 1583, Elector Gebhard resided with his wife, the beautiful 

4* 



52 Route 10. 



HONNEF. 



Countess Agnes von Mansfeld . whom he had abducted from the 
convent of Gerresheiru. The summit commands an admirable 
view. 

From the Lowenburger Hof a broad path leads towards the N. 
along the E. slope of the Lohrberg (1443 ft.) . at first gradually as- 
cending : after '20 min. the principal road to the 1. must be followed, 
and after 7 min. more that to the r. in the direction of St. Marga- 
rethenkreuz (p. 50). 

The Stenzelberg | 945 ft.), where the largest trachyte- quarry in 
the Seven Mts. is worked, lies to the S. of the road leading from 
Heisterbacherrott to Heisterbach (p. 51), about 1 2 hr. distant from 
each of these points. The rock here is columnar, and generally per- 
pendicular in position, but the masses are much thicker and less 
regular than in the case of the basalt (p. 58). Columns occasionally 
occur from which several external incrustations peel off . and then 
remain protruding from the side of the quarry like vast fossil trees. 

The Plain which extends between the S.W. base of the Seven 
Alts, and the Rhine . about 3 M. in length and I 1 2 M. in breadth, 
is luxuriantly fertile, presenting a constant succession of corn-fields, 
vineyards . and orchards . and sheltered from the N. and E. winds. 
The genial climate and picturesque scenery of this spot attract num- 
erous visitors in summer . whose head - quarters are generally at 
Honnef (railway, see p. 53). 

Ehondorf Ecu 1 is I M. from Konigswinter , and 1 M. from 
Honnef (see below). On the lateral wall of the church is a well 
preserved tombstone of the last knight of Drachenfels. with armorial 
bearings and date 1530. brought from the Abbey of Heisterbach. 
A good road leads from Ehondorf to the E. through the grassy valley 
which separates the Wolkenburg . Pulverhahn , Schallenberg . and 
Geisberg on the N. from the broad Breiberg on the S.. to the Lowen- 
burger Hof (p. 51). 3 1 o M. distant. 

Honnef ('railway station . see p. 531 {* Hotel Klein : Dell: Till- 
manri). One of the pleasantest Excursions hence is a walk of '2 hrs. . by 
the farmhouse of Zicklenburg . to Menzenberg. the slopes of which 
yield good red wine, past the Hager Hof. a large farmhouse, thence 
by the footpath to Rheinbreitbach. and back to Honnef by the road. 
A shorter walk (Vo hr.) may be taken to Menzenberg . passing 
the vineyards of the Hager Kijppelchen (fine view). Another 
pleasant prospect is obtained from the churchyard of Honnef. 
The *L'6wenburg (p. 51 I is best ascended from Honnef (l 1 /^ hr.) 
as the path to it commands a succession of beautiful views. About 
half-way up a view to the r. is obtained of the narrow, green valley 
through which the road to Siegen leads. Way back by Rhondorf 
(see above). 

Rheinbreitbach. (Clouthj is the most southern of these villages, 
situated most distant from the Seven Mts. — Excursions : To the 
Breitbacher Kreuz. near the village, with pleasing view: to the 



LEUTESDORF. 



11. Route. 53 



*Haanenburg hr.) , the property of a Cologne merchant , by a 
broad path through the vineyards ; fine view from the tower , and 
beautiful walk back, round the building and over the Heidekamm. 
The 'Giants' Graves' (Hunengr'aber) are iy 2 M. from Honnef. 
Near the Haanenburg are the copper and lead mines of the Virne- 
berg , once worked by the Romans. From the Yirneberg a path 
through pine-wood leads to Farinasruhe, and thence to the Menzen- 
berg (l l / 2 M-). 

11. From (Cologne) Deutz to Ehrenbreitstein (Coblenz). 

(Railway on the Right Bank). 

From Deutz to Troisdorf in ij 2 hr. (fares 16, 11, 8 Sgr.); from Trois- 
dorf to Ehrenbreitstein in lij 3 — 2ij 2 hrs. (fares 1 Thlr. 25, 1 Thlr. 12, 27 
Sgr.). The traveller bound for Coblenz should take a ticket to Ehren- 
breitstein only, the station of which is nearer the principal hotels of 
Coblenz than the station of the latter. The railway from Ehrenbreitstein 
to Coblenz crosses the river above the bridge of boats, describing a circuit 
of nearly 2 M. (fares 9, 7, 4 Sgr.). 

From Deutz to Troisdorf, see p. 40. Stat. Friedrich- Wilhelms- 
Hutte, an extensive foundry, connected by a line with Siegburg 
(p. 41). Schwarz-Rheindorf, with its interesting double church (p. 
43), lies on the right. Stat. Beuel (p. 45), opposite Bonn (p. 43), and 
connected with it by a floating bridge. Stat. Obercassel (p. 54) is 
connected with the Left Rhenish Railway by a steam-ferry by which 
trains cross the river. Godesberg, with its picturesque ruin-crown- 
ed hill, now becomes conspicuous on the opposite bank. The valley 
of the Rhine gradually contracts and the beautiful scenery of the 
Seven Mts. is approached. Nieder-Dollendorf (pp. 51 , 54) and 
Konigswinter (p. 48) are both good points for excursions to the 
Seven Mts. , the latter especially is much visited. The train skirts 
the base of the Drachenfels and runs close to the river , passing 
Rhondorf (p. 52). Stat. Honnef (p. 52), a pleasant summer resort, 
is the best point for the ascent of the Lowenburg (see p. 52). In 
the river lie the islands of Nonnenwerth and Grafenwerth ; on the 
opposite bank rises the picturesque arched ruin of Rolandseck. The 
village of Rheinbreitbach is next passed, and at stat. Unkel (p. 56) 
the line quits the fertile plain which lies at the foot of the Seven 
Mts. Erpel is next passed, opposite to which lies Remagen with the 
elegant Apollinariskirche (p. 57). Stat. Linz (p. 57) lies opposite 
the mouth of the Ahr, above which , a little inland, rises the hand- 
some church of Sinzig. The train next passes Leubsdorf and Arien- 
dorf, and affords a glimpse of the castle of Arenfels to the 1. Near- 
ly opposite stat. H6nningen(p. 59) rises Schloss Rheineck ; Rhein- 
brohl (opposite the Brohl Valley, p. 59), Nieder- and Ober-Hammer- 
stein, and the base of the Hammerstein are next passed. On the 
opposite bank, a little above stat. Leutesdorf (p. 60), the picturesque 
and ancient town of Andernach (p. 60) with its round tower and 



54 Route 72. 



OBERCASSEL. 



handsome church in the background . comes in sight. The Wied is 
crossed, and the train soon reaches stat. Neuwied (p. 601. a little 
to the E. of the town . and not far from the village of Heddesdorf 
(p. 61). The train now runs inland and traverses an extensive plain, 
but returns to the bank of the river at stat. Engers (p. 62). The 
next stat. Bendorf (p. 63) is a convenient starting place for an ex- 
cursion to Sayn (p. 62), li/ 2 M. distant. Stat. Vallendar (p. 63) 
lies opposite the island of Niederwerth and the village of that name. 
A little farther, the village of Neuendorf is observed on the opposite 
bank, and beyond it the fortified Petersberg (p. 78): and a pictu- 
resque view is soon obtained of Coblenz and the influx of the Mo- 
selle. The station at Ehrenbreit stein (p. 79) lies at the foot of the 
precipitous rock on which the fortress is situated. 

12. The Rhine from Bonn to Coblenz. 

Rail trap in 1 hr. 10. to 1 hr. 40 min. — Steamboat in 4 — hrs. 
(down in 2^2 — 3 hrs.)i pier? at Bonn. Konigswinter, Rolandseck. Remagen, 
Andernach. Xeuwied. and Engers: smaH-boat stations at Obercassel, Plit- 
tersdorf (Godesberg). TJnkel. Linz, Xieder-Breisig . Brobl . Leutesdorf. and 
Urmitz; the steamboat journey, far preferable on account of the beauty 
of the scenery, is here described. 

After Bonn is quitted the beauty of the Seven Mts. becomes 
more apparent. On the 1. Earner sdorf . with woods in the back- 
ground, was formerly a lodge of the knights of the Teutonic Order. 
Having been burned down with the exception of the chapel . the 
latter . which was deemed unsuitable for the new structure . wa 
removed to the cemetery at Bonn. 

1. Obercassel (*Wolfsburg ; Zum JRiesen) , with an ancient 
church-tower (11th cent.), prettily situated near the foot of the 
Seven Mts. , is recommended for a prolonged stay. Railway ferry 
to Bonn, see p. 53. 

Walkfi in the neighbourhood: By the high-road to Xieder-Dollendorf 
and alone: the Rhine to the '-Steinevne Hcivschen' (view): or along the slope 
of the hill to the wood: farther up rises the Obercasseler Lei (*view) . or 
Rabenlei (with numerous quarries of 'table basalt", an excellent paving- 
stone): to the Heisterbnch Valley (p. 54) by Ober-Dollendorf (1 hr.) : to the 
Pfaffenrdttchen by Xieder-Dollendorf ( 3 4 hr. . view from the height); to 
the *Ennert ( 3 |4 hr.), ascended from Kiidinghoven plaagh"s tavern") . which 
from the Foreavxhciuselien , as well as beyond it, commands a noble pro- 
spect. To the X.E. of the Ennert rises the Uardt. a barren grey hill, 
with valuable brown coal mines and alum-works , at the foot of which 
lie* the suppressed Carmelite monastery of Piitzchen, where a great fair 
is held in autumn. 

r. Plittersdorf, station for Godesberg, 1 M. to the S.W. 

1. Niederdollendorf (Frembgen . with garden"), on the river, is 
also a railway station (p. 53): Oberdollendorf */ 2 inland, lies 
at the entrance to the Heisterbach valley (p. 51). 

On the r. rises the handsome castle of Godesberg (p. 109). on an 
eminence, i 1 /* M. from the Rhine. 

r. Rungsdorf; the villa with a tower belongs to Herr Camphausen, 
Prussian minister in 1848. 



ROLANDSECK. 



}2. Route. 55 



1. Konigswinter (p. 48), beyond which rises the Drachenfels, 
Ascent of the latter, and the Seven Mountains, see p. 49 et seq. 

r. Mehlem {Stern; Krone; Goldenes Schiff, on the Rhine, with 
garden, pension 1 Thlr. and upwards), birthplace of John of Mehlem, 
a celebrated artist of the Cologne school. — Railway station , and 
flying bridge to Konigswinter. 

On the island of Rolandswerth, or Nonnenwerth , peeping from 
the midst of trees , stands an extensive nunnery of very ancient 
origin, mentioned for the first time in a document of tha 12th cen- 
tury. The present buildings with the tower were erected after a fire 
in 1673, and a handsome new wing was added in 1869. The nun- 
nery was suppressed in 1802 , but was re-opened in 1845 as a girls' 
school under the auspices of Franciscan nuns. 

r. Rolandseck (steamboat and railway station) (*H6tel Rolands- 
eck; * Hotel Roland; * Hotel Billau , near the pier ; *Rail. Restau- 
rant, magnificent view from the terrace). On the hill rises the soli- 
tary arch of the ruin of Rolandseck, l / 2 M. from the stat. ; the path 
ascends by the Hotel Roland (donkey 10 Sgr.). The *view from 
this basaltic rock , 347 ft. above the Rhine , is less extensive than 
that from the Drachenfels, but more picturesque, as the Drachenfels 
itself, the Wolkenburg, and other wooded heights of the Seven Mts. 
form the foreground. In the distance (S.) the castle of Olbruck is 
visible. 

The castle is believed to have been built by Roland, peer of France 
and paladin of Charlemagne , who fell at the battle of Ronceval. He is 
called by Eginhard (secretary of Charlemagne) the guardian of the north 
coast, and his dominions are described as extending to that part of the 
Rhine where the mountains begin. The castle is mentioned in a document 
of 1040 as RulchesecJc. Archbishop Frederick partially restored the ruin in 
1120 to defend his dominions against Henry IV. The fortress stood till 
the close of the 15th cent. , when it fell entirely to decay. A beautiful 
legend connected with the castle and convent probably suggested Schiller's 
'-Ritter Toggenburg\ It may be thus briefly narrated: 

The brave knight Roland, scouring the Rhine in search of adventure, 
found himself the guest of Count Heribert, lord of the Seven Mountains, 
at his castle of Drachenburg. According to custom the daughter of the 
host, the* peerless Hildegunde, welcomed him with the offering of bread, 
wine, and fish. Her beauty riveted the gaze of the young knight, and 
Hildegunde and Roland were shortly affianced lovers. But their happiness 
was brief: Roland was summoned by Charlemagne to the crusade. Time 
sped on, and anxiously did Hildegunde await his return. But sad rumours 
came. The brave Roland was said to have fallen by the hands of the In- 
fidels, and the world no longer possessing any charm for the inconsolable 
Hildegunde, she took refuge in the 'Kloster*' in the adjacent island of 
Nonnenwerth. The rumours, hoAvever, of the death of her betrothed were 
unfounded. Although desperately wounded , he recovered, and hastened to 
the halls of Drachenburg to claim his bride \ but instead of being welcom- 
ed back by her fondly remembered smile, he found that she was for ever 
lost to him. In despair he built the castle, of which one crumbling arch 
alone remains, and there lived in solitude, catching an occasional 
glimpse of a fair form passing to and fro to her devotions in the little 
chapel of the Kloster. At length he missed her, and soon the tolling of 
the bell and a mournful procession conveyed to him the heart-rending in- 
telligence that his beloved Hildegunde was now indeed removed for ever. 
From that moment Roland never spoke again; for a short time he drag- 



56 Rente Z2« 



REMAGEN. 



From Bonn 



ged on his wretched existence, but his heart was broken, and one morning 
his sole attendant found him rigid and lifeless, his glassy eye still turned 
towards the convent-chapel. 

The new tower on the top of the hill . l fa M. to the W. of the 
ruin, affords a wider prospect, embracing Godesberg. the lower hills 
of the Seven Mts. . and the plain between Bonn and Cologne. The key 
may be procured from the proprietor. Herrvom Rath, who lives oppo- 
site the Hotel Roland; in tine weather, however, and on Sundays, the 
custodian is usually on the summit £2* 2 — 5 Sgr.). About 1 oM. from 
the tower is the Roderberp. a crater. 1 4 M. in diameter, and 60ft. in 
depth. On its rounded margin pumice-stone is everywhere visible: 
the bottom is now arable land, belonging to the farm of Bruchhof. 

On the broad plain to the L lie the villages of Rlwndorf. Honnef. 
Rheinbreitbach. and Scheuern. 

r. .Oberwinter Fasbender . The retrospect hence is one of the 
finest of the Rhine. Rolandseck. and the Drachenfels with its castle , 
the cliffs of the Wolkenbuig . and the entire range (^upwards of 30) 
of the peaks of the Seven Mts. . at the r. extremity of which is the 
flattened summit of the Lowenburg surmounted by a ruin ^the iso- 
lated sharp peaks still farther r. are the Hemmerich and the Grosse 
Leyberg) . form a chain of incomparable beauty . while the lovely 
island of Xonnenwerth and the grand river itself constitute the 
foreground. 

In 1846 a considerable landslip took place on the bank opposite 
Unkel. one half of a hill ( the Birgeler Kopf) having glided down to- 
wards the Rhine. The barren, rugged walls of the remaining portion 
show where the slip took place . and the otherwise regular strata of 
basalt have been dislodged. 

1. Unkel Clasen . a prosperous village, between which and Re- 
magen the Rhine describes a wide curve. Below the Apollinarisberg 
to the r. a railway emerging from the hills conveys the basalt from 
the quairies to the river. 

Of the numerous handsome country-houses situated on both 
banks of the river . the most conspicuous is the modern chateau of 
*Marienfel$. 1 o M. below the Apollinariskirche. 

Remagen * Hotel Fukstkbbekg, * Konig vox Pkeussen), steam- 
boat and railway station. — Tariff of carriage-fares (inch tolls and fees): 
to Ahrweiler one-horse l 1 3 . two-horse 2 Thlr. . the drive hack 20 Sgr. or 
1 Thlr.: to Altenahr 2 1 2— 3 Thlr.. drive back 20 Sgr.— 1* 3 Thlr.: if the 
carriage be kept for the whole day 4 — 5 1 2 Thlr. : Laacher See and back 
(1 day) 3 — 4- 3. by Andernach 4 — 6 Thlr. These data may prove useful, 
as Remagen is the best head-quarters for excursions between Bonn and 
Coblenz. 

The small town of Remagen was the Roman Rigomagus. A 
milestone bearing the date 16*2 . found in 1763. records that the 
Roman road which formerly passed here was begun under the em- 
perors M. Aurelius and L. Verus. It indicates the distance from 
Cologne as 30.000 Passus. which is tolerably correct. Another mile- 
stone found in the neighbourhood is preserved in the museum at 
Bonn. 



to Coblenz. 



LINZ. 



12. Route. 57 



The choir of the Church was erected in 1246 , and contains 
several old frescoes. The Romanesque Portal adjoining the Rom. 
Cath. parsonage , adorned with grotesque sculptures of the 12th 
cent., is worthy of inspection. 

A good footpath (ascending to the r. at the upper end of the town, 
donkey 10 Sgr.) leads in 20 min. to the * Victoria-Berg, an eminence imme- 
diately behind the town, with promenades and benches, commanding a 
charming and varied prospect, especially by evening light. In the fore- 
ground is the Apollinariskirche, by which the visitor may return to the 
town. 

On an eminence below Remagen rises the * Apollinariskirche, 
a beautiful Gothic church , erected by Count Furstenberg-Stamm- 
heim (d. 1859), under the direction of Zwirner , the late eminent 
architect of the cathedral of Cologne. To the 1. of the approach a 
well preserved Roman votive-stone, of the time of Trajan, with 
inscription , found in the vicinity in 1857, is built into the rock. 
The old building in front of the church, formerly a deanery, is now 
a Franciscan monastery. The church , a perfect gem in its way, is 
open daily 9y 2 — 12, and 2 — 6 o'clock; on Saturdays and the eves 
of festivals 9 1 / 2 — ana< 2 — 4, on Sundays and holidays 11 — 12, 
and 1 — 3 o'clock; adm. 2 i / 2 Sgr. It is adorned with ten large 
frescoes in the best style of modern German art. Charming view 
of the Rhine from Honningen to the Seven Mts. 

**Frescoes. On the 1. scenes from the life of the Saviour, by Deger 
and Ittenbach, on the r. from the life of the Virgin ; central scene, Women 
of the Old Testament, by Miiller; below, Meeting of St. Joachim and St. 
Anna, and Mary ascending the steps of the Temple, by Ittenbach. In the 
S. transept, St. Apollinaris consecrated bishop , and miraculous resuscita- 
tion of a girl*, in the N., destruction of idols, death and beatitude of the 
saint, and a Crucifixion. In the choir on the r., Coronation of the Virgin, 
1. the Resurrection. On the external side of the arch, on the r. St. Joseph, 
on the 1. *Mary and the Child , by Deger. In the Chancel the Saviour 
with the Virgin and St. John the Baptist, by Deger, St. Peter and St. 
Apollinaris with the four Evangelists, by Ittenbach. — The Crypt contains 
the sarcophagus of the saint of the 14th cent. , surmounted by a modern 
statue by Stephan of Cologne. In the adjoining hall is a crucifix carved 
by Veit Stoss. 

Opposite Remagen , near Erpel , rises the Erpeler Lei (642 ft.), 
a basaltic cliff , the quarries of which are the most profitable on the 
Rhine, as the stone is at once transferred to the barges on the river. 
The columns , however , are clumsier than those of the Minderberg 
and Dattenberg quarries (p. 58). Above Erpel lies (1.) Kasbach, 
then Linzerhausen (Vorstadt Linz) , commanded by the ivy-clad 
ruins of Ockenfels. 

1. Linz (*Nassauer Hof; Fasbender) , an ancient, still partially- 
walled town , formerly belonged to the Electorate of Cologne. The 
Romanesque *Church of St. Martin dating from the 13th cent., con- 
tains line stained glass and an admirable picture by the master of 
the picture at Sinzig(p. 109), of 1463, representing the Annunciation 
and Crucifixion on the outer wings, the Annunciation and Coronation 
of the Virgin on the inner , and the Nativity , Adoration , Presenta- 
tion in the Temple, &c. in the centre. This picture and the old 



58 Route ?2„ 



ARENFELS. 



Fr^m Bonn 



frescoes have been restored. Fine views from the churchyard and 
from the Donatusberg , or Kaiserberg , which is crowned with a 
chapel: towards the S.W. . ahove the confluence of the Ahr and 
Rhine . the tower of Olbriiok stands out on a peak in the distance. 
The environs of Linz yield good red wine . and during the vintage 
the little town presents a busy scene. 

The extensive ^Basalt Quarries of Dattenberg and the Minderberg near 
Linz deserve inspection, especially the latter. The road to the Minder- 
be rg ascends the valley to the E.. past the copper, vitriol, and zinc works 
of the Stemerhutte. (Near it a chateau of the Prince of Salm-Kyrhure : 
above it the Benneberg with tower on the summit.) From the Stemer- 
hutte the path ascends to the 1.. and the quarry soon comes in view. It 
is a spacious hall of the most beautiful black prismatic columns of basalt, 
some of them upright, others heaped together in confused masses, each 
3 — 10 in. in diameter, and sometimes 20 ft. in length. When struck they 
produce a clear metallic rins. and in beauty fmrpass those of the celebrat- 
ed FingaTs Cave. The *view from the height ahove this quarry (1116 ft. 
above the Rhine) is scarcely inferior to that from the Oelberg (p. 50). The 
pedestrian is recommended to return by the Kasbachthal towards the W. 
(guide unnecessary) : in case of doubt, information may he obtained at the 
farmhouse on the hill. The whole circuit may he made from Linz in 
about 3 hrs. 

The column^ in the quarry of Dattenberg. situated in a side-valley 
about 1 M. above Linz. are as high as those at Minderberg, but much 
thicker. From the foot of the ruined Castle in the grounds of Herr von 
Mengershausen a fine view is obtained of the Ahr, with the basaltic Lands- 
kron fp. 65) in the background. 

This stone is admirahly adapted for pavements and the foundations 
of buildings, but, as it attracts moisture, is unsuitable for the upper parts. 
It is largely exported to Holland, where it is employed in the construction 
of dykes. 

To the E. of Linz rises the Hummelsberg (1755 ft.), a cross on which 
commemorates the battle of Leipsic. Another cross on the Kaiserberg, 
nearer the Rhine . was erected in commemoration of the battle of Water- 
loo. These hills also contain productive basalt quarries. 

From (r.l Krippe , a small village on the Rhine . connected with 
Linz by a floating bridge . a path leads past the estate of Godenhaus 
to the Mineral Spring of Sinzig (containing carbonate of soda . and 
free from ironl and joins the high road opposite a bath-establish- 
ment on the 1. bank of the Ahr. near the bridge below Sinzig. 

Between Remagen and Nieder - Breisig the Rhine describes a 
curve which the railway and road cut off. The beautiful church of 
fr/l Sinzig (p. 109. on the railway, l^'o M. from the river) is visible 
from the steamboat. 

The mouth of the (r.) Ahr fp. 64) is now passed. The village 
of Dattenberg (see above) is next seen peeping from a ravine on the 
I. On the same bank lies Leubsdorf with the Saalhof. a small build- 
ing with four towers . an ancient royal chateau. Near it Ariendorf. 

On the 1. rises the castle of Arenfels, erected by Henry of Isen- 
bnrg . and named by him after his wife the Countess of Are. It is 
now the property of Count Westerholt . by whom it was handsomely 
restored under the directions of Zwirner . the architect of Cologne 
cathedral. The lofty round tower is peculiar. The Rittersaal contains 
some fine old weapons, and the grounds command beautiful views. 



to Coblem. 



RHETNECK. 



12. Route. 59 



I. Honningen (*Schloss Arenfels), at the foot of Arenfels , and 
Rheinbrohl (Krone) , with a handsome modern Gothic *Church , are 
considerable villages , situated in a fertile plain , beyond which the 
mountains to the 1. rise more abruptly from the river. 

r. Nieder-Breisig (steamboat and railway station) lies opposite 
Honningen. Near the S. end of the village part of an ancient Tem- 
plars' Lodge still exists. About l 3 /4 M. higher up , a path ascends 
the wooded hill to the castle of 

r. *Rheineck, the carriage-road to which winds up the N. and 
W. sides of the hill ; far below lies the hamlet of Thai liheineck. 
The square tower, 66 ft. in height, on the E. side, is the sole rem- 
nant of the old castle , which was dismantled by the French in 
1689, destroyed by the troops of the Electorate of Cologne in 1692, 
and finally burned in 1785. The new castle, in the round- arch style, 
the property of Herr von Bethmann-Hollweg , was erected in 1832 
by Lassaulx. The interior, tastefully fitted up, contains several 
good modern pictures and frescoes. Access seldom denied (fee for 
1 pers. 5— 7y 2 , a party 20 Sgr.— 1 Thlr.). *Yiew from the garden, 
always open , embracing the course of the Rhine from Andernach 
to the Apollinarisberg , with the peaks of the Seven Mts. in the 
background , scarcely surpassed by the prospect from the Drachen- 
fels. 

The count of the castle was from a very early period lord of an in- 
dependent imperial fief, and towards the close of the 18th cent, enjoyed 
absolute sway, it is said , over 'twelve poor .subjects, one Jew, three farms, 
and one mill 1 . Rheineck has been from ancient times a boundary between 
different races. In the time of Cfesar the Eburones inhabited the district 
below, and the Treviri that above this point; opposite to the former lay 
the dominions of the Sicambri, and to the latter those of the Ubii. Brohl 
now forms a strongly denned line between the lower and upper Rhenish 
dialects ; here , too, the picturesque head-dress of the peasant girls is first 
observed. 

On the r. the Brohlbach falls into the Rhine at Brohl (Abnn; 
steamboat and railway station), which adjoins the hamlet of Nippes, 
and is the depot for the tuff stone found in the Brohlthal (R. 14). 

1. Nieder-Hammerstein, yielding good wine ; then Ober-Hammer- 
stein (Burg Hammerstein), near which rises a massive rock of grau- 
wacke , crowned with the ruin of Hammerstein. Here the Emp. 
Henry TV. resided for some time when persecuted by his son Henry 
V. , and here he kept the imperial insignia till their removal by his 
usurping successor. During the Thirty Years' War the castle was 
successively occupied by Swedes, Spaniards, troops of Cologne , and 
those of Lorraine , and finally destroyed in 1660 by the Archbishop 
of Cologne, as being too powerful a neighbour to be tolerated. 

On the heights, 4 M. to the E. of the Rhine, the course of the Pfahl- 
graben, a Roman intrenchment constructed as a protection against the 
attacks of the Germanic tribes, is distinctly visible, and may be traced 
from Monrepos as far as the Seven Mts. The table-land above Hammer- 
stein near the intrenchment still bears the name Marsfeld ('field of Mars 1 ), 
where Roman coins and relics are frequently found. 

Above (r.) Fornich rises the Fornicher , or Weghilbler Kopf, 



60 Route 12. 



NEUWIED. 



From Bonn 



recognisable by a solitary group of trees on the summit, the nearest 
volcanic peak to the Rhine. A lava stream from it , divided into 
huge pillars near the road, is visible from the river. 

r. Namedy , at some distance from the river, possesses a small 
Gothic church of the 15th cent. , bisected by a row of slender col- 
umns ; near it the castle of the ancient knights of Namedy. On the 
1. lies the considerable village of Leutesdorf (*Moog-Eisen) , sur- 
rounded by productive vineyards planted among the rocks. The 
mountains which confine the river now recede. 

r. Andernach (*ffacften&ritc/i, in the town -,'Schaefer, on the Rhine, 
at the lower end of the town ; steamboat and railway station) , an 
ancient and picturesque town, with its old bastions and lofty watch- 
tower , was the Roman Antunnacum , or Antonaco , one of the fifty 
forts of Drusus , which was destroyed by the Alemanni in 339 , re- 
captured and restored by the Emp. Julian in 359, and afterwards 
mentioned in the Notitia Dignitatum (a manual of the Byzantine 
government published at the end of the 4th cent.) as the station of 
the prefect of a garrison of Acincenses. Subsequently to the 6th 
cent, it is frequently mentioned as a royal Franconian residence. 
In the middle ages it was an Imperial town , but was taken by the 
Electorate of Cologne in 1496; in 1688 it was burned by the French, 
who also destroyed the Schloss, erected in 1109 by Frederick I., 
Archbishop of Cologne. The extensive ruins of the latter are near 
the Coblenz Gate. 

The * Church, with its four towers and richly decorated portals, 
is a fine specimen of late Romanesque (1206) ; the choir was erect- 
ed in 1120. On the vaulting of the nave are the Imperial arms, 
with those of the town and of Hermann IV. Archbishop of Cologne 
(d. 1508). Choir re -decorated in 1856. Carved wooden pulpit 
brought in 1807 from the Abbey of Laach (p. 69). 

The lofty round * Watch- Tower on the Rhine, with octagonal 
summit, w T as erected in 1414 — 68. The wide breach on the W. side 
was made by the French cannonade in 1688. 

The Rathhaus contains a small collection of Roman antiquities. 

The volcanic products of the neighbourhood, millstones of lava (p. 70), 
tuffstone, trass, etc., form an important branch of commerce , and are 
largely exported. The lava quarries are at Xiedermenclig, near the Laacher 
See (p. 70), M. to the W,, and are best reached from this point. The 
Rhine may then be regained by the valley of Brohl (p. 68). 

Above the village of (1.) Fahr, which lies nearly opposite Ander- 
nach , are a few fragments of the Teufelshaus ('devil's house'), or 
Friedrichstein , a chateau begun in the 17th cent. , but removed on 
the construction of the Right Rhenish railway in 1868. Farther up, 
on an eminence surrounded by fruit-trees , stands the Romanesque 
Feldklrche ; at its base lies the fishing-village of Irlich, near which 
the Wiedbach falls into the Rhine. The steamboat now touches at 
the pleasant and thriving town of 

1. Neuwied (* Anker; * Wilder Mann, both on the Rhine; 



to Coblenz. 



MONREPOS. 



12. Route. 61 



^Moravian Hotel ; Hotel Kraemer, near the railway station of the r. 
bank; railway station on both banks, comp. pp. 54, 108). At the 
lower end of the town are the handsome Palace and *Park of the 
Prince of Wied. The town was founded in 1653 by Count Fre- 
derick of Wied , on the site of the village of Langendorf , which 
had been destroyed in the Thirty Years' War. Under his auspices 
the town rapidly increased. Popul. 8534, consisting of Protestants, 
Roman Catholics (2000) , Moravian Brothers , Baptists , and Jews, 
who live together in great harmony. Starch, chicory, and tin-wares 
are the principal products. 

A building near the palace-gate, adjoining the street , contains 
on the 3rd floor a small Collection of Roman Antiquities, interesting 
from having been found in the Roman fort of Victoria near Nieder- 
biber (see below), a stronghold not mentioned by any ancient author. 
The excavations have been again filled up. — The Pheasantry in 
the park formerly contained a natural history collection , brought 
from Brazil and N. America by the late Prince Maximilian, but sold 
in 1869, and now in New York. 

The community of Moravian Brothers , also called HerrnJiuter from 
Herrnhut in Saxony, where they had established themselves after their 
expulsion from Moravia during the Thirty Years'' War, occupies a separate 
part of the town. Their establishments afford an insight into the habits 
of this sect and are worthy of inspection. They were originally fol- 
lowers of John Huss , and their number increased enormously after his 
death. They now form a species of religious republic, having their own 
laws both for public and private life , which are administered by their 
elders. The gravity and austerity of their manners and habits has gain- 
ed for them the appellation of the Quakers of Germany. The unmarried 
brethren live in a separate building , and carry on different trades , the 
profits of which are devoted to the community. Faience stoves and deer- 
skin gloves are their best manufactures. Visitors are readily admitted, 
and are first conducted to the magazine, where they are expected to make 
some purchase. The establishment for the sisters is similarly conducted. 
They are recognised by their peculiar white head-dresses, fastened with 
ribbons of different colours, according to their age and condition — girls 
dark red , young unmarried women pink , married women blue, widows 
white. At stated seasons 'love-feasts 1 are celebrated in the church, ac- 
companied by singing, prayers, and a sermon, during which tea is partaken 
of. Their educational establishments are justly celebrated, and are frequent- 
ed by pupils from England, as well as from all parts of Germany. Many 
other schools at Neuwied also enjoy a high reputation. 

Excursion from Neuwied to Monrepos and Altwied. From the 
station of the Right Rhenish line (p. 54) the traveller proceeds to { x \-z M.) 
Heddesdorf and turns to the 1., following the road ascending the valley of 
the Wied. At the (1 M.) Rasselstein Foundry, the oldest puddling work in 
Germany, founded in 1824, pedestrians cross the stream and traverse the 
pleasant park of Nothhausen (^Restaurant), following the r. bank to Segen- 
dorf, while the carriage-road leads by JViederbiber , l 1 ^ M. farther. From 
(l 1 ^ M.) Segendorf a broad road ascends in windings, which the pedestrian 
may avoid by taking the footpath to the 1. above the last house in Segen- 
dorf, by which Monrepos is reached in 3 | 4 hr. The villa on the brow of 
the hill is the seat of the Dowager Princess of Wied. Schloss Monrepos 
itself (869 ft. above the Rhine) is a chateau of the Prince of Wied with 
a beautiful park, and commanding a magnificent prospect (refreshments 
at the Hahnhof, to the W. of the chateau). The Holzstoss (reached in 10 
min. from the back of the Schloss by a path through the beech wood in. 



62 Route 12. 



ENGERS. 



From Bonn 



a straight direction) affords a good survey of a side valley of the Rhine. 
A finer point is the *AUwieder Aussicht, the route to which is by the 
carriage-road to the E. of the Schloss, and then by the third path diverg- 
ing to the r. (stone way-post by a large oak). Footpaths descend hence 
in 20 min. to Altwied (Mailer), a village situated on the Wied about 2 31. 
above Xiederbiber, and commanded by the extensive ivy-clad ruins of the 
ancestral castle of the ancient Counts of Wied. — The Braunsburg, 1 hr. 
to the N.W. of Niederbiber (reached via, Oberbiber) , a ruined castle on a 
wooded eminence, commands a picturesque view of the plain of the Rhine 
through the opening of the valley, with the mountains of the Eifel in the 
background. Beautiful beech forest. 

Opposite the park the (x.^Nette falls into the Rhine. The double- 
peaked hill to the W. is the Plaldter Hummerich (692 ft.). On the 
railway lies (r.) the Netterhof, with com. oil, and other mills. 

r. Weissenthurm (Riese). At the N. end of the village rises a 
square watch-tower, erected in 1730 "by Kuno von Falkenstein, the 
extreme point of the dominions of the Electors of Treves, which 
here adjoined those of Cologne. Above the village stands an obelisk 
to the French General Roche (p. 78), who crossed the Rhine here 
in 1797 with the army, and shortly afterwards died suddenly at 
Wetzlar. at the age of 30. 

r. Der Gate Mann, formerly a hermitage , with a new chapel; 
near it are lime-kilns and a manufactory for preparing the Engers 
stone (see below) : then Urmitz and Kaltenengers, opposite 

1. Engers (Homerbrucke ; steamboat and railway station), former- 
ly ; Kuno stein- Engers' , the ancient capital of the Engersgau. In 
1386 Archbishop Kuno von Falkenstein erected a castle here with 
a round tower (the ivy-clad trunk of which rises below the palace), 
to protect the navigators of the Rhine from the rapacious Counts of 
the Westerwald. The adjoining chateau, now a Prussian military 
school, was erected in 1758 by Elector Johann Philipp von Walder- 
dorf. To the 1. a retrospect ofMonrepos is obtained, to the r. a view 
of the Camillenberg (p. 72). 

Near (1.) Miihlhofen. where the Saynbach falls into the Rhine, 
is the foundry of that name; farther back the Concordia Foundry. 

On the hill-side, l 1 ^ M. inland, the ruined Castle of Sayn : , destroyed 
by the French in the Thirty Years" 1 War, is visible from the' steamboat. 
A vault of the castle contains a sarcophagus of the 13th cent. , with a 
statue carved in oak of a Count Heinrich of Sayn, the founder of the 
neighbouring Abbey of Sayn. On the slope of the hill are the ruins of 
the castles of Stein "and Reifenberg. At the base of the hill stands ^Schloss 
Sayn, the extensive chateau of the Prince of Sayn-Wittgenstein-Sayn, 
usually accessible on Sundays and Thursdays from 1 to 5 o'clock (proceeds 
of the entrance fee of 2 1 j2 Sgr. devoted to charity } the attendant also ex- 
pects a trifling fee). The interior is handsomely fitted up, and contains 
a choice ^Collection of Modern Pictures. Among them, Kriiger, Portrait of 
the Russian field-marshal Wittgenstein, grandfather of the present proprietor 5 
Ror. Vernet, Return from hawking (portraits of the princess and her 
family); sketch by the same master of the well-known Mazeppa picture; 
other works by Gudin, Isabey , Wqppers, Verboeckhoven , Granet , Winter- 
halter, Decamps &c. , smaller works by Wouvernians, F. Bol and others. 
Also several sculptures: Bartolini, Mercy, a group in marble; L. BienainU, 
Innocence, a statue in marble; several busts by Ranch. The plate-room 
is worthy of a visit, but is rarely shown to strangers. The chapel, a 



to Coblenz. 



VALLENDAR. 



12. Route. 63 



tasteful Gothic structure recently completed, contains a valuable figure of 
Christ in ivory, by Giovanni da Bologna, a statue of the Madonna in Car- 
rara marble, and stained glass from Munich. 

The hill on which the extensive ruins of the old castle are situated 
is laid out as a park. The summit commands a beautiful prospect, simi- 
lar to that from the Friedrichsberg (see below). 

Near the chateau is the extensive Sayn-Foundry (*Burg Sayn or Post), 
purchased by Herr Krupp from the Prussian government in 1865. The 
buildings, erected in 18b0, are constructed chielly of iron and glass. 

Above the valley rises the *Friedrichsberg , or Renneberg, laid out as 
a park , and much resorted to in summer. The views of the rich and 
orchard-like plain of the Rhine, and of the romantic valley of Sayn are 
remarkably pretty. Farther up the valley (3>j2 M.) are the ruins of the 
castle of Isenburg, the ancient seat of a still existing family. 

On the S.W. wooded slopes of the hills which enclose the beautiful 
Engersgau , rises the spire of Ileimbach, near which are the ruins of the 
ancient abbey of Rommersdorf , with fine cloisters and chapter-house, 
erected about 1200, now the property of the Duke of Aremberg, and 
employed as farm-buildings. Some of the pillars are of verde antico. 

Between Sayn and Engers a peculiar kind of pumice-stone conglo- 
merate is dug up. It is cut into squares and dried, and much valued as 
a building material, on account of its durability and lightness. The bed 
is in some places 20 ft. in depth. Geological research has suggested the 
idea that, before the Rhine broke through the chain of mountains near 
Andernach, the basin of Neuwied was a lake. The pumice-stone ejected 
from the volcanoes of the 1. bank of the Rhine (p. "<0) was probably 
washed down by the rain into the lake, where, in combination with a 
clayey binding material, it formed the deposits which now yield the above- 
mentioned stone. 

1. Bendorf (*Rheinischer Hop , a railway station, surrounded 
with fruit-trees, possesses a curious old Romanesque church ; farther 
up (r.), the villages of St. Sebastian and Kesselheim , opposite the 
island of Niederwerth. 

1. Vallendarf Captain ,• Anker ; Albert), a railway station , is a 
busy little town, carrying on a considerable traffic in mineral water, 
earthenware, timber, and fruit. The Romanesque Church, erected 
by Lassaulx in 1839, is a handsome edifice, adorned with sculptures 
and good modern stained glass (enthroned Madonna , designed by 
Hess ill Munich). The adjoining church-tower dates from the 15th 
cent. — The hill of Weitersburg , 3 / 4 M. to the N. of Yallendar, 
commands a line view of the Rhine with its islands, and the pictu- 
resque valley between Coblenz and Andernach. Halfway up stands 
a summer-house belonging to the Casino of Vallendar, not accessible 
to strangers unless accompanied by a member. 

In the valley behind Vallendar (ij 2 M.) are the remains of the nun- 
nery of Schbnstatt with well preserved Romanesque towers , abandoned in 
156?, afterwards destroyed by the Swedes; the nave of the church has been 
entirely demolished. Adjoining it is a cloth factory. From this point the 
road to the 1. leads through a beautiful wooded valley to the wealthy vil- 
lage of Hohr (MiiUenbach)j with extensive potteries. 

On the long island of Niederwerth is a dilapidated village, with 
a convent-church built in 1500, containing a carved altar-piece 
and fragments of good stained glass. Edward 111. of England re- 
sided here for a short time in 1837, and had several interviews with 
the Emp. Lewis and other princes. 

I, JVLallendar , most of which formerly belonged to the knights 



64 Route 12. 



NEUENDORF. 



of the Teutonic Order. On an eminence above the village stands 
Besselich, once the property of the Knights Templar , then an iUi- 
gustine nunnery till 1804, when it was secularised. Fine view from 
the garden. On the hillside, higher up the river, is Vrbar , sur- 
rounded by fruit-trees. 

r. Wallersheim, above it Neuendorf, chiefly inhabited by rafts- 
men. The smaller rafts generally halt here and receive additions 
until they are 800—1000 ft. in length and 150— 250ft. in breadth; 
they are furnished with wooden huts for the crew, which frequently 
numbers 150 men. It is saidthat a raft proprietor must have a capital 
of at least 45,000£. , one third of which consists of wood in the 
forest , one-third of timber on the water , and one - third for the 
expenses of transport to Holland. 

The steamboat now passes the base of Ehrenbreitstein , opposite 
the influx of the Moselle , commanding a view of the picturesque 
old bridge, and stops at Coblenz (R. 15). 

13. Valley of the Ahr. 

Comp. Map p . <54. 

Distances. Remagen to Ahrweiler 9 (Bodendorf 3, Heppingen 3, 
Ahrweiler 3) M. $ Ahrweiler to Altenalir 7 l \4 M. — Diligence several 
times daily from Remagen and from Sinzig to Ahrweiler in l 1 ^ hr. ; thence 
to Altenahr once daily in l 1 ^ hr. — Carriage from Remagen to Alten- 
alir and back, for 1—4 pers., one-horse 3 l /e, two-horse 4^3 Thlr., incl. tolls 
and driver's fee (comp. p. 56). 

A footpath to (4 X |2 M.) Heppingen effects a saving of l 1 ^ M. The road 
to the Apollinariskirche is followed as far as the bend where the ascent 
to the church is on the r. \ then in a straight direction up the valley by 
a broad carriage-road. Those who have first visited the Apollinariskirche 
proceed to the 1. through the quarries to the carriage-road , about 500 
paces distant. After l \? M. the turning to the r. must be taken, and the 
road soon enters a plantation , beyond which the Kbhlerhof (l 1 ^ M.) lies 
to the 1. In a straight direction two new houses (1 M.) are reached, where 
a. road to the 1. leads to the Landskron (l 1 ^ M.), and the straight road to 
Heppingen (i 1 j2 M.). On the W. side of the Landskron a steep path de- 
scends in 8 min. to Heppingen. 

The full-flavoured, dark red wines produced by the vineyards of the 
Ahr, which in good seasons yield upwards of 600,000 gallons (the best 
are those of Walporzheim , Ahrweiler, and Bodendorf) , are still termed 
'Ahrbleicherf, although the name signifies 'pale red wine of the Ahr\ It 
was formerly customary, after pressing the grapes, to draw off the juice 
immediately , before the' setting in of fermentation. The wine thus pre- 
pared was of a pink colour. The French plan of allowing fermentation to 
begin before the separation of the juice from the skins has however long 
been in vogue, and the dark red colour is the result. 

Millions of l Riimpc7ien (cyprinus phoxinus) , small fish 1 — 2 in. in 
length, are caught in the Ahr, boiled in saltwater, and packed in willow- 
bark for exportation. They are dressed with vinegar and oil, and esteem- 
ed a great delicacy. 

The Ahr rises at Blankenheim (p. 134) in the Eifel, traverses a 
winding and generally narrow valley, 54 M. long, and falls into the 
Rhine below Sinzig. Atthe wooden bridge over the Ahr near Sinzig, 
the road to the Ahrthal leaves the Cologne road and leads by the villages 
of Bodendorf, Lolirsdorf, Heppingen, Wadenheim, and Hemmessem to 



AHRWEILER, 



13. Route. 65 



Ahrweiler. As yet there is no trace of the wildness of the upper 
part of the valley ; the land is well - cultivated , the slopes exposed 
to the S. are covered with vineyards, and those on the other bank 
with woods, which opposite (3 M.) Bodendorf extend down to the 
river. 

The basaltic Landskron (944 ft.) is the highest and most con- 
spicuous of the hills which bound the lower part of the valley. A 
castle on the summit is said to have been founded in 1205 by Emp. 
Philip the Hohenstaufen, when on his way to be crowned atAix-la- 
Chapelle, for the purpose of keeping in check the Archbishops of 
Cologne , who afterwards supported the claims of his Guelph rival 
Emp. Otho IV. It was destroyed by the French in 1677. The chapel 
on the S.W. side of the summit has been spared; a basaltic grotto 
serves as a sacristy. Near it is a q uantity of massive basalt, curiously 
overlying columnar basalt. The view embraces the Ahrthal from 
Ahrweiler to the Rhine, the higher peaks of the Seven Mts., to the 
S. a portion of the Eifel with the castle of Olbriick, and to the W. 
the ruin of Tomberg near Meckenheim. Seen from the W. side, from 
the road below , the hill with the white chapel and the ruin on 
the top is very picturesque. 

At the S. base of the Landskron lies(3 M.^Heppingen, with two 
refreshing springs, impregnated with carbonic acid gas. 

Opposite (iy 2 M.) Wadenheim (Hotel de Hollander Goldner 
Pflug • Hotel Bonn ; Schroder's Hotel Garni) , on the r. bank of the 
Ahr are the 

Baths of Neuenahr (* Kurhaus , with 150 apartments, reading- 
room, post and telegraph office, etc. ; Concordia, Schnitzler ; Praes- 
sar; Schwipper ; Heimes\ Hof von Holland, etc. ; private apartments 
may also be procured), opened in 1858. The water (72 — 104° Fahr.), 
of which there is an abundant supply, contains carbonate of soda, 
magnesia, and lime , resembling that of Ems , and is efficacious 
in pulmonary complaints , gout , and scrofula. In 1861 an inter- 
mittent warm spring (100° Fahr.), similar to that at Nauheim, 
was discovered. On a wooded hill (1073 ft.), rising above the vil- 
lage of Beul and the Baths of Neuenahr, stands the Castle of Neuen- 
ahr , destroyed in 1371 , once the seat of a younger branch of the 
Counts von der Are (p. 67) , who became extinct in the 16th cent. 
Ahrweiler is 2*/4 M. from Neuenahr or Wadenheim. The small 
church of Heimersheim, 2!/ 4 M. to the E. of Neuenahr, in the late 
Romanesque style, contains old stained glass. 

Ahrweiler {Krone ; Stern ; Kreutzberg's Restaurant) is a thriving 
little town surrounded by old walls. The Gothic church was found- 
ed in 1275 (tower and roof restored after 1689) , and the town was 
probably enclosed by walls about the same date. During the feud be- 
tween the chapter of the cathedral of Cologne and the deposed Arch- 
bishop Ruprecht of the Palatinate the town successfully resisted 
a siege in 1473, and in a later feud between the chapter and the 

BmdekejCb Rhine, 5th Edit. 5 



66 Route 13. 



AL TEX AHR, 



Ahr Valley. 



deposed Archbishop Gebhard, Ahrweiler sided with the former. In 
1646 and 1689 it was sacked by the French, and on the latter occa- 
sion entirely burned with the exception of ten houses. Fine view 
from the Calvarienberg. an eminence ^faM. to the S., on the r. bank 
of the Ahr, the extensive building on which was built as a Francis- 
can monastery in 1678, but is now a well organised girls' school 
under the management of Ursuline nuns. 

At the entrance to the narrower part of the valley lies (2/4 M.) 
Walporzheim (St. Peter , good wine) , where the best Ahr- wine is 
produced. The vineyards here are kept with the utmost care. 

A rocky ravine is now entered, penetrating the sharply indented 
slate mountains : on the 1. rushes the Ahr . on the r. rises almost 
perpendicularly a black wall of slate-rock, from which a single ridge 
called the 'Bunte KuK projects. To the r. of the road, near the 
hamlet of the same name , are the ruins of the nunnery of Marien- 
Uml CIV4M.)- 

Beyond (j 3 / 4 M.) Dernau a footpath, destitute of shade, but pre- 
ferable to the dusty high road, diverges and follows the bank of the 
Ahr. passing an old stone bridge (which however is not to be crossed), 
and traversing a more open part of the valley to (l 1 /* M.) Rech, 
where the valley again contracts. The Ahr winds through a wild, 
rocky district. The road follows the course of the stream, rounding the 
precipitous Saffenburg. to Mayschoss (IV4 M.) and the Lochmuhle 
O/2 M.) (*Inn). 

The pedestrian may select a different route from Rech to the 
Lochrniihle. Near the bridge (on the r. bank) , a path ascends to 
the r. through the vineyards (closed from the end of Aug. till the 
middle of Oct.) to the ridge of the hill, on which stand the frag- 
ments of the Saffenburg (846 ft.). It is related of the French com- 
mandant of the castle, when besieged in 1703, that, on being de- 
sired to surrender, he replied that he wac not disinclined, but beg- 
ged that three cannon-shots should first be discharged against the 
walls. His wish was complied with , and he was thus enabled 
'honourably' to evacuate the castle , which was blown up the fol- 
lowing year. On the W. side of the Saffenburg the path descends 
rapidly and joins the road at the bridge of Mayschoss , near the 
Lochmuhle. (From the bridge at Rech over the Saffenburg to the 
Lochmiihle is a walk of 35 min. ; by the road by Mayschoss a few 
min. more.) 

Near the Lochmuhle the road passes between walls of grauwacke, 
40 ft. high, beyond which the hamlets of Loach and Reimerzhofen, 
are reached; then through a tunnel, 70 yds. in length, at the farther 
extremity of which Altenahr (* Caspari ; WincklerJ comes in sight. 

It is . however . far preferable to quit the road at Reimerzhofen, 
t M. from the Lochmuhle, and ascend the path to the r. through 
vineyards (closed during the vintage) to the Cross (^4 hr.), visible 
from the road. It stands on a rocky ridge, 361 ft. above the stream, 



Ahr Valley* 



ADENAU. 



13. Route. 67 



and commands the finest *view in the valley , surpassing that from 
the castle of Altenahr, as the latter itself forms the foreground of the 
wild, rocky landscape. The path descends on the other side to Alten- 
ahr (in 8 min.), passing the dilapidated gateway of the * Castle of 
Altenahr, perched like an eagle's nest on a grand , rugged wall of 
rock, 370 ft. above the village , and once the seat of the powerful 
Counts of the Ahr and Hochstaden. Conrad, Archbishop of Cologne, 
the last of the elder branch of the family, laid the foundation of the 
cathedral of Cologne in 1248. The castle fell into the hands of the 
French in 1690, was occupied by Bavarians in the Spanish War of 
Succession, and finally, in consequence of the Peace of Utrecht 
(1714), blown up to prevent its harbouring robbers. Admission 3, 
for a single visitor 5 Sgr. (custodian generally at the ruin, but safer 
to inquire for him in the village). 

Another fine point of view is the *Horn, above Altenahr; to 
Altenburg 1/4 hr. , thence to the pavilion with a guide , an ascent 
of 3 /4 hr. 

The most beautiful part of the valley is between the ''Bunte 
KuK and Altenahr, but there are many fine points above the latter 
(diligence to Adenau daily inl 3 / 4 hr.). One of the best views is obtained 
from the bridge over the Ahr ; farther on, to the 1. , are the rugged 
rocks of the 'TeufelskanzeV (Devil's Pulpit), then the grand mass of 
rocks known as the Alte Burg (old castle). On a rocky eminence 
near Kreuzberg rises a picturesque chateau. At Dumpelfeld, 6 M. 
from Altenahr, the road quits the Ahr and leads to (6 M.) Adenau 
(Halber Mond), the principal village of the district, near which are 
the two highest points of the Eifel, the basaltic peaks of the Niir- 
burg (2181 ft.), 4y 2 M. to the S. , surmounted by a ruined castle 
with lofty tower , and the *Hohe Acht (2410 ft.) , 6 M. to the E. 
The latter commands a magnificent view over the Eifel as far as the 
mountains of the Rhine , and even the cathedral of Cologne. Near 
the top is a small refuge-hut. 

Guide from Adenau to the Hohe Acht 10 Sgr. Those who prefer it 
may drive nearly to the summit (in l 1 ^ hr. carr. 2^2 Thlr.). 

From the Hohe Acht the traveller may proceed to (3 M.) Kaltenborn, 
(3 M.) Leimbach, and (3 3 |4 M.) Kempenich (Comanns). Schloss Olbrilek 
(p. 72) lies 31/2 M. to the N. of this point-, the Laacher See (p. TO) lO 1 ^ M. 
to the E. , an uninteresting route. Carriage from Adenau by the Hohe 
Acht to Laach and Andernach 7 Thlr. ; in l 1 ^ hr. to the Hohe Acht, thence 
to Kempenich 2 hrs., from Kempenich to Laach 2 hrs., and to Andernach 
in 1 1 |2 hr. more (roads somewhat rough and hilly). — Another route from 
Adenau by the Hohe Acht to Andernach is via Virneburg (Miiller) and 
Mayen (a drive of 6 hrs., carr. G Thlr.). 

On the Ahr , which the road quits at Dumpelfeld (see above), 
there are two other fine points, Schuld, 3 M. to the W. of Diimpel- 
feld , and the ruined castle of Aremberg , the ancestral seat of the 
Dukes of Aremberg, near Antweiler (Neubusch). Antweiler lies 6 
M. to the W. of Adenau. 



68 

14. Brohlthal, Laacher See, Lava Quarries of 
Niedermendig. 

Comp. Map, p. 51. 

Distances. Brohl (p. 59) to Tonnisstein tfrfe M., Wassenaeh S 1 ^, the 
Abbey of Laach 3, Xiedermendig 3. Hayes 3 M. — Diligence twice daily 
from Mayen to Coblenz in 3 hrs. . to the Neuwied station in 2 3 |* hrs. — 
The Laacher See is most conveniently visited by carriage from Ander- 
nach : two-horse carr. from Andernach to Xiedermendig , Laach, Tonnis- 
stein. and Brohl about 4 Thlr., a drive of 4 hrs. in all. 

Oeynhausen's geogmvtic-orographie maps of the neighbourhood of the 
Laacher See (Berlin, 1S47) and Dr. v. Dechen's geognostic guide to the 
Laacher See (Bonn , 1S64) are recommended to the notice of scientific 
travellers. 

The * Brohlthal, long an object of the unwearied investigations 
of geologists, is a beautiful winding valley enclosed by wooded 
mountains of considerable height, and enlivened with numerous 
mills and houses ; but the principal object of interest is the ex- 
tensive stratum of Tufa, of which the bed of the valley consists. 
It is a soft, grey or pale yellow stone, porous , and veined with pu- 
mice-stone, similar to the Italian puzzolana earth, and is believed to be 
the product of volcanic mud-streams. It is sometimes found covered 
with softer, sandy substances, such as loose pumice-stone and vol- 
canic ash, and sometimes on the surface of the earth . where it has 
been laid bare by the action of the weather. This tufa, or tuffstone, 
was very early used in building . and almost all the churches from 
this part of the Rhine down to Holland were constructed of it, the 
trachyte of the Drachenfels (which however is more easily disinte- 
grated) being employed for the carved work. The only modern 
building constructed of it is the Apollinaris Church (p. 571. Tuff- 
stone , however, derives its principal commercial value from the 
Hrass'j or cement made from it. When pounded and mixed with 
lime it possesses the invaluable property of hardening under water, 
and is largely exported to Holland for the construction of dyke-. 
Where the tuffstone is found isolated , it has been supposed that 
it forced its way upwards in a boiling condition through aperture-, 
and thus reached the surface of the earth. In the Brohlthal . how- 
ever . this hypothesis cannot be maintained, as the entire bottom 
of the valley consists of a solid mass of tufa . from 15 to 50 ft. in 
thickness. Oeynhausen , in the explanations annexed to the geo- 
logical map mentioned above , conjectures that this stratum was 
formed by a vast stream of mud which issued from the volcanoes 
of the IXachsbusch and Hi'dteberg, 3 M. from Nieder-Zissen (p. 72 I. 
and that subsequently the Brohlbach gradually destroyed a great 
portion of this mud-stream . thus forming the present Brohl Valley 
by a long process of erosion. The fact that charred trunks of tree^ 
frequently occur in the tuffstone proves that the torrent of mud 
must have been emitted in a burning condition. 

Numerous mineral springs near the Laacher See . and especially 
in the Brohlthal , still afford indication of a slumbering volcanic 



BROHLTHAL. 



14. Route. 69 



agency in this district. They are generally strongly impregnated 
with carbonic acid, and probably form about one half of the water 
of the Brohlbach. 

The period of the formation of the tuffstone cannot possibly be 
determined, as even the pumice-stone , the most recent volcanic 
production, which frequently overlies the former, belongs to an 
epoch far beyond the scope of human history. Some idea of its anti- 
quity is afforded by the fact that the Romans , the earliest annalists 
of this district, buried their dead in these pumice-stone beds (e. g. 
at Andernach). It is, however, worthy of note that the remains of 
plants contained by the tuffstone belong to still existing species. 

The tuffstone quarries, on both sides of the valley, are partly 
open, partly subterranean , forming extensive galleries, supported 
by natural pillars left for the purpose. Where these galleries have 
fallen in, the pillars left standing are covered with luxuriant vege- 
tation, favoured by the decomposition of the stone , and serving to 
enhance the beauty of the valley. A high-road leads through the 
valley from Brohl to Ober-Zissen (p. 72), and a tolerable carriage- 
road from Tonnisstein (see below) to the Abbey of Laach and Nie- 
dermendig. 

At the En trance to the Brohl Va lley (167 ft. above the 
sea-level), on the N. side, stands a paper-mill , surrounded with 
grounds. Farther on (2 M.), in the middle of the valley, rises the 
small castle of Schweppenburg , probably erected in the 16th cent. 
The garden contains a Roman altar found here. About ^M. up the 
narrow side-valley, which here diverges to the S. , is the Heilbrun- 
nen, a mineral spring of saltish, but refreshing taste, similar to the 
Kreuzbrunnen of Marienbad. 

About 1^4 M. from Schweppenburg , a road diverges to the 1. 
through a side -valley to the Laacher See; the main road to the r. 
leads to Olbriick (p. 72). By the former the traveller soon reaches 
Bad Tonnisstein (410 ft.), the water of which is strongly impreg- 
nated with carbonic acid, resembling that of Selters. Passing tra- 
vellers And good accommodation at the Curhaus. 

The road to the Laacher See diverges to the r. below the Cur- 
haus, before the bridge is crossed, passes (y 3 M.) the ruins of the 
(1.) Carmelite monastery of Antoniusstein (hence the corruption 
'Tonnisstein'), again ascends to the r. to (1% M.) Wassenach (915 
ft.) (poor inn), and then descends through wood towards the Laacher 
See. On the r. rises the wooded Veitskopf[i38i ft.), a volcanic peak 
with a double crater opening on the W., and a broad, abruptly in- 
clined lava stream. The view hence of the lake surrounded by 
wooded hills is very striking. 

On the S.W. bank rises the Benedictine Abbey of :i Laach, 
founded in 1093 by Count Palatine Henry 11., and secularised in 
1802, once one of the wealthiest and most celebrated inGermany. 
In 1863 it became the property of the Jesuits, who here established 



70 Route Id. 



LAACHER SEE. 



a much frequented school for pupils of the order, but were 
compelled to abandon it, in consequence of the law of 1872 exclud- 
ing Jesuits from the Empire of Germany. The Church , completed 
in 1156, with dome, five towers, and crypt, in the Romanesque 
style , and richly decorated , is an edifice of great value in the 
history of art. The beautiful Cloisters in front of the W. facade, 
restored in 1859 , belong to the close of the 12th cent. , and the 
curious Monument of the Founder, a sarcophagus with a recumbent 
figure, beneath a hexagonal canopy supported by columns , to the 
end of the 13th. The two front columns are monoliths of variegated 
'calcsinter', found in the Roman aqueduct through the Eifel Mts. 
The church is the property of the Prussian government ; the interior 
is shown on application at the abbey. On the road- side, outside 
the monastery walls, is the *H6tel Maria Laach (R. 15, D. 20 Sgr., 
pension l 1 /* Thlr.). Excellent pike fishing may be enjoyed on the 
lake, and a traditional fish of 40 lbs. is a farther incentive to the 
angler. As the fishing is farmed , whatever is captured must be 
paid for if carried away. Boats may be procured at the inn. 

The *Laacher See (921 ft/), a lake of nearly circular form, 
2 M. in diameter, 6 M. in circumference, and 173 ft. deep in 
the centre , is the largest crater-tarn (R. 24) of the Eifel. It is not 
itself a crater , but is believed to have been formed by a series of 
volcanic eruptions which took place in the vicinity, especially by 
the upheaving of the Veitskopf (p. 69). There arc several craters 
in the surrounding hills, the most important being the Krufter 
Ofen (1538 ft.), 1 M. distant, from the wooded summit of which 
a pleasing glimpse of the abbey is obtained. 

The road skirts the W. side of the lake. On the E. side , nearly 
opposite the abbey , is another extensive building , erected by the 
Jesuits. Near it, about 20 ft. above the water, is a L mofette\ a. hol- 
low 7 ft. in width, and 3 — 4 ft. in depth , whence a stream of car- 
bonic acid gas (most perceptible in wet weather) constantly issues. 
The suffocating nature of the lower strata of the air in this hollow 
may be tested by stooping down and attempting to breathe it. 

After an inundation in the 12th cent, had threatened the Abbey 
lands with destruction, the Benedictines sank a shaft on the S. side 
of the lake, by which the superfluous water was conducted to the 
Nette. A similar shaft, constructed in 1845 , lowered the level of 
the lake 20 ft. 

The exten -ive basalt-lava * Quarries of Niedermendig (Midler) 
are 3 M. to the S. of the Laacher See. The subterranean strata, oc- 
cupying an area 3 M. in length and i l /. 2 M« i' 1 breadth , extend to 
the Krufter Ofen (see above), but the lava-stream, probably ejected 
by the Hochstein (p. 71), iy 4 M. N.W. , near Bell, is thickest at 
Niedermendig, where it is intersected by numerous and spacious 
halls, supported by huge pillars. These pits, probably once worked 
by the Romans, are almost all connected, and communicate with the 



MAYEN, 



14. Route. 71 



surface of the earth by means of wide shafts. A guide (10 Sgr.) 
precedes visitors with a torch ; the inspection occupies an hour. 
The temperature in these mines is so low that even in summer 
masses of ice are seen in all directions. The hardness and durability 
of the lava adapt it admirably for millstones , as well as for paving 
and building purposes. The deserted galleries are used as beer- 
cellars, to which the beer ofMendig is chiefly indebted for its repu- 
tation. 

Mayen (*Pos£; Kohlhaas, both in the market-place), the district- 
town (diligence twice daily to Coblenz in 3, to the Neuwied station 
in 2 3 / 4 hrs.), also possesses lava-quarries, but nearer the surface 
than the above , and some of them partially open. The lava -bed 
in which they are worked is the outlet of the sunken volcano of 
Ettringer - Bellenberg (1325 ft.), iy 2 M. N. from Mayen. The E. 
side of the crater commands a fine view of the fertile plain between 
Mayen and Andernach, and of the Rhine Valley. About 3 M. to the 
W. , higher up the picturesque Nettethal , above which rises the 
precipitous and wooded Hochsimmer (1883 ft.), is situated the well 
preserved turretted chateau of Burresheim , on a hill partially sur- 
rounded by the Nette, and mentioned as early as the 12th cent. 

From Laach to Mayen another road leads by Bell, the same dis- 
tance (6 M.) as by Niedermendig , passing the remarkable brickstone (si- 
milar to tuffstone) quarries of Bell. Farther on rises the Hochstein 
(1771 ft.) , sometimes termed the Forstberg (the latter name is applied by 
the inhabitants to a low hill immediately N. of Bell), with crater towards 
the N.W. A lofty mass of rock on the W. side of the wooded summit 
commands a fine view of the Laacher See, the Eifel, and the Rhine as 
far as the Seven M-ts. Below the rock there is an old artificial grotto, the 
origin of which is unknown. Then by Ettringen to Mayen ; on the r. rises 
the blunted cone of the Hochsimmer (see above); farther on, to the 1. 
beyond Ettringen, the above-mentioned Ettringer Bellenberg. 

From Laach to Andernach, 9 M. , an uninteresting route. The 
road crosses the heights surrounding the lake towards the S. of the 
Krufter Ofen, and afterwards takes an E. direction. The villages of 
Mckenich and Eich lie a short distance to the 1. — Or the traveller may 
prefer to cross the lake by boat (a pleasant excursion , 15 Sgr.) to the 
promontory on the E. side, ascend the hill straight through the wood, 
and then proceed to the 1. of the Krufter Ofen to Nickenich, a direct road 
not easily mistaken. From Nickenich the road leads to the 1., and where 
it divides, to the 1. again (Eich is left on the L). This road unites with 
the other road to Andernach about l 1 ^ M. from the town. 

From Niedermendig to Neuwied (railway-station) the high-road 
leads by (3 M.) Kruft (Werle). On the r. rises the Korretsberg ; farther 
on, the Plaidter Hummerich , with its saddle-shaped summit; to the 1., 
farther distant, the wooded Krufter Ofen (p. 70). At (l l | 2 M.) Plaidt there 
are valuable trass mines (comp. p. 68); Miesenheim, farther on, lies to the 
r. ; the road now (lij 2 M.) divides, that to the 1. leading to (2^4 M.) Ander- 
nach, that to the r. through the Nettethal to the (2 l \<i M.) Nettehavs on the 
high road to Coblenz, near the Neuwied station (p. 62). — A ramble along 
the banks of the Nette, through the pretty, poplar-shaded valley, is strongly 
recommended to pedestrians. About 3 |a M. below Plaidt, halfway to Safiig, 
is situated the * Rauschemiihle , where the Nette is precipitated over a 
wild chaos of huge blocks of lava, forming a series of small cascades. 
The richness of the vegetation greatly enhances the beauty of the scene. 
Tastefully kept walks (to which access is permitted) unite the principal 
points of view. — Above Plaidt the valley of the Nette contracts and runs 



72 Route 14. 



BTJRGBROHL. 



towards the S. On a rock rising abruptly from the Nette , l 1 ^ M. above 
Plaidt, stands the ruin of *Wernerseck, with a huge well-preserved tower. 
The regular, barren streaks of lava on the upper slopes of the valley, the 
lower parts of which are covered with vegetation, form a peculiar feature 
of the scenery. Those who do not intend to return hence to Plaidt may 
proceed direct from Wernerseck between the Korretsberg and Plaidter 
Hummerich to (2^4 M.) Kruft (see above) ; or follow the course of the 
Nette as far as (l 1 ^ M.) Ochtendung (see below). 

Coble nz is 15 M. distant by the direct road (by Ochtendung , Bassen- 
Jteim, and Riibenacli). About i l \2 M. from isiedermendig it passes the 
Church of St. Genovefa , where according to tradition the saint was dis- 
covered in the wilderness by her husband Siegfried , Count Palatine of 
Hohensimmern. The church contains monuments of both. Near the 
brook which crosses the road not far from the church, numerous mineral 
springs bubble up on the road-side (p. 68). — A somewhat longer, but far 
more picturesque route leads from Ochtendung by the Sackenheimer Hof 
in !|2 hr. to the summit of the *Camillenberg (1214 ft.), a wooded eminence 
which commands a beautiful view of the valley of the Rhine from Ander- 
nach to Coblenz , to the 1. in the distance rise the Seven Mts. (the Eifel 
Mts. are not visible except from the tower of the chapel , which is gener- 
ally closed). Then a descent of x \± hr. to the Eiserne Hand (Inn) on the 
high road between Coblenz and Treves. From this point, by Metier nidi 
to Coblenz (p. 73) is a distance of 6 M. 



Instead of diverging to the 1. to Tonnisstein (p. 69), the tra- 
veller may follow the Brohl Valley to (1 M.) Burgbrohl (* Salentin), 
picturesquely situated, with an old castle, once the seat of a family 
of that name. The huge masses of calcareous tufa which here occur 
have been gradually deposited by the mineral springs, like the ther- 
mal tufa of Carlsbad. The road next passes (3 M.) Nieder- Zissen, 
(iy 4 M.) Ober-Zissen, and (1 M.) Haiti. The castle of :; Olbriick 
(1552 ft.), 1 M. further, is one of the highest points in this district, 
with an extensive view of the volcanic peaks of the Eifel , the hills 
towards the Rhine, and the Seven Mts. The cathedral and towers 
of Cologne are distinctly visible in clear weather. The only part of 
the castle still in good preservation is the lofty square tower, a con- 
spicuous object when viewed from the Seven Mts. and the plain of 
the Rhine. The peak on which it stands consists of clink -stone or 
phonolite, also a volcanic product. From the Verier Kopf (1919 ft.), 
3 M. to the W. of Olbriick , the prospect is still more extensive. 

From Olbriick to the abbey of Laach (p. 69), by Wehr, is a dis- 
tance of 5^4 M. — The wooded hill-country beyond Olbriick is very 
attractive at places. Crossing the hill towards the S. , the traveller 
reaches (2 ! / 4 M.) Engeln , a poor village. The road then gradually 
ascends towards the S.E. ; on the r. rises the barren Hohe Lei (1840 
ft.), on the 1. the wooded lava -peaks termed the Meirother Kopf 
and the Dief elder Stein. Where the (3 M.) linger-post (1732 ft.) 
indicates the roads to Kempenich, Ried, Mayen, and Bell , the tra- 
veller should select the latter, which after a farther ascent of Vohr. 
leads to the summit of the Gansehals(1876 ft.), a hill commanding 
an extensive and beautiful panorama : to the N. Olbriick, the Seven 
Mts., and the towers of Cologne : W. the Hohe Acht and the Niir- 




! 



* 



COBLENZ. 



15. Route. 73 



burg; E, far below the spectator, tbe Laacher See, and beyond it 
the mountains rising from the valley of the Rhine , and the lofty 
Westerwald. Descent to (Y2 nr Bell , and (3/ 4 hr.) Nieclermendig . 

The traveller may vary the return route from Olbruck to the 
Rhine by taking the path at Nleder - Zissen (see above), ascen- 
ding to the N., traversing a low wood (the Scheiderwald), and pass- 
ing the volcanic peak (2/4 hr.) of Herchenberg (1063 ft.) , the sum- 
mit and E. slopes of which consist of tuffstone, the\V. side of slag, 
and the S. of laminated columnar lava; 25 min. farther Ober- 
Liitzingen, 25 min. Nieder-Lidzingen, then to the 1. by the chapel, 
over the top of the hill (*view of the Seven Mts.), and finally 
through wood towards the r. to (40 min.) the castle of Rheineck 
(p. 59), a walk from Nieder-Zissen of 2 i / 4: hrs. in all. 

At Nieder-Zissen this path skirts the base of the Bausenberg 
(1125 ft.), rising on the N., 480 ft. above the village. Its summit 
is one of the best denned craters near the Laacher See ; the inner 
wall, 80 ft. in height, opens to the N.W. The lava-stream may be 
traced 3 M. to the valley of the Pfingstbach at G tinners dor f , where 
it terminates in huge columnar rocks. 



15. Coblenz and Ehrenbreitstein. 

Hotels. On the Rhine: Giant (PI. a), a large, first-class hotel, high 
charges; *Bellevue (PI. b), also first-class, R. from 20, D. 25 Sgr. 5 
^Anchor (PI. c), R. 15—20, D. 20 Sgr. — In the town: *H6tel de Treves 
(PI. d), Clemens - Platz , R. 20, D. 25 Sgr. — * Hotel de Liege (PI. e), 
not far from the station and the Moselle steamboat pier ; Wildes Schwein 
(PI. f); *Traujbe (PL g) near the Rhine, moderate; Berliner Hof, near 
the station. — Pensions. Ernen and Nell , both beautifully situated on 
the Rhine - promenade (PL C , 6) , l | 2 M. from the town, terms 1 2 | 3 Thlr. 
and upwards. 

Cafes. *Trinkhalle (PL C, 5) on the Rhine-promenade, military music 
on Thursday afternoons-, in summer a Cafe" on the Rhine-wharf; both 
of these command fine views. Hubaleck, opposite the post-office. Beer in 
all. — Wine. Tillmann, Unter'ni Stern, at the N. end of the Kornpfort- 
Str. , with restaurant; Kirsch, in the Florins-Platz , both with a view 
of the Moselle. ^Casino (PL 4), introduction by a member. — Beer. Dotzler, 
Gemiisegasse; Kratz , Miinz-Platz; Laupus , near the Mainzer Thor. — 
Confectioners. Mosler, in the Plan; Leybacher , Clemens - Str. ; Hoffmann, 
Jesuiten-Str. 

Porterage from steamboat to hotel on the Rhine: 2 Sgr. for a box, 
1 for smaller packages; into the town 3 or 2, to Ehrenbreitstein 4 or 
2»J 2 Sgr. 

Military Music on Wednesdays at ll 1 ^ o'clock, in the Clemens-Platz. 

Baths in the Rhine (PL E, 2), attached to the bridge of boats (bath 
5 Sgr.). Swimming-bath (PL E, 1,2) in the Rhine, a little below the bridge; 
single bath (excl. towel, &c.) 5 Sgr. Warm at Fischer's, Lohr-Str. , near 
the station, and at Hensler's, Castorhof. 

Railway Station on the W. side of the town (PL A, 2), within the 
ramparts. 

Post-Office (PL 30) at the coiner of the Clemens-Platz. 
Telegraph- Office, Schloss-Str. 13. 

Carriages. (Stands on the Rhine, near the bridge of boats ; in the Schloss- 
Rondell, PL C, 3, 4 ; and at the station.) One-horse: per drive within the 
town, or to Liitzel-Coblenz (PL B, 1), to the Rondell on the Mainzer 



74 Route 15. 



COBLENZ. 



H&ory. 



Chaussee (PL C, 6), or to the foot of the Karthause (PL A, 5) 1 — 2 pers. 5, 
3 pers. 7i| 2 , 4 pers. 10 Sgr. ; for 1 hr. 20, each additional »j 2 hr 5 7»j 2 Sgr. ; 
luggage, 2^2 Sgr. for each heavy package: Laubach (p. 81) 15, there and 
back , with stay of 2 hrs. , 1 Thlr. 5 Sgr. 5 to Capellen (Stolzenfels) , or 
Niederlahnstein, or Yallendar 25 Sgr., with stay of 2 hrs. 1 Thlr. 10 Sgr.} 
Schone Aussicht on the Karthause (p. 78) 1 Thlr., and back, with stay of 1 hr., 
I 1 !* Thlr.^ top of Ehrenbreitstein , or to the Aslerstein , or to Arenberg 1 
Thlr. 10, and back with 2 hrs. stay, 1 Thlr. 20 Sgr. — Two-horse car 
riagefl about one-half more. Bridge toll (4 l j2 or 6 Sgr.) saved by taking a 
carriage in Ehrenbreitstein for excursions on the r. bank. jST.B. Carriages 
from the hotels and those without a number have no fixed charges. 

Moselle Steamboats, see p. 129. Beautiful excursion of two days: By 
steamboat to AI/\ by carr. to Bertrich (l 2 j3 Thlr.)} or to the Falkenlei, near 
the village of Kenfuss (about 2 1 | 2 Thlr.), visiting, on the way back to Ber- 
trich, the Cheese-Grotto and waterfall, then Bertrich and environs, and re- 
turning the same evening to Alf. On the following morning visit the 
Marienburg, and return by steamboat to Coblenz. 

English Church Service in the English Chapel in the Palace. 

Principal Attractions. Where time is limited , the traveller should 
walk from the Holzthor through the Bhine Promenade to the (1 M.) 
Rondell , return as far as the Schenkendorf monument, follow the glacis 
to the 1. as far as the Mainzer Thor, enter by this gate, cross the *Rail- 
way Bridge (toll 2 Pf.), ascend the ^Asterstein (p. 80), or ^Ehrenbreitstein 
(p. 79), and finally return by the bridge of boats, a walk of 3 hrs. in all. 
— To obtain a glimpse at the town itself: walk from the steamboat pier 
down the Rhine to the confluence of the 3Ioselle, turn to the 1., enter the 
sate and visit the St. Castor Church (p. 75), then, if time permit, proceed 
to the Moselle Bridge (p. 75). — The views from the Karthause (l 1 ^ hr. 
there and back) and the Schone Aussicht (2 hrs. there and back) are very 
fine. — ^Stolzenfels, see p. 81. 

Coblenz, at the confluence of the Moselle and Rhine , is the ca- 
pital of the Rhenish Province of Prussia and the seat of the civil 
and military authorities (pop. 24,531 ; garrison 5000; pop. of 
Ehrenbreitstein '25001. 

No town on the Rhine can vie with Coblenz in beauty of situa- 
tion. It stands at the junction of two of the loveliest streams in the 
world. Equidistant from Cologne and Mayence, it forms a half- 
way resting place to travellers from both, and is also the focus of the 
commerce of the Moselle, Rhine, and Latin. In a military point of 
view it is a place of great importance. 

The side of the town towards the Rhine consists of a row of 
handsome buildings: the palace, government offices . hotels, and 
dwelling houses, and linally the venerable Church of St. Castor and 
the building which was formerly the Teutonic Lodge (PI. ?}. The 
side next the Moselle, extending as far as the bridge, and consisting 
chiefly of small old houses , was in the middle ages the principal 
part of the town. 

Coblenz . the Roman Confluentes , belonged to a series of for- 
tresses erected by Drusus on the 1. bank of the Rhine, B. O. 9 . as 
a protection against the Germanic tribes. It is also mentioned by 
Ammianus Marcellinus (d. 390) as the only Roman fortress on this 
part of the Rhine in his time. Several Roman coins were found at 
the junction of the rivers in 1844, and in 1864 when the Moselle was 
unusually low, numerous remains of a Roman bridge of* piles were 
discovered below the Moselle bridge (p. 75). 



St. Castor. 



GOBLENZ. 



15. Route. 75 



Down to the establishment of the Rhenish Towns' Confederation, 
Goblenz was a place of little importance. In the Thirty Years' War 
it was alternately besieged and garrisoned by Swedish, French, and 
Imperial troops. In 1688, although the town was nearly destroyed 
by the French cannonade , Marshal Boufflers was compelled to re- 
treat without effecting an entry. On the completion of the palace 
in 1786 Goblenz became the residence of the Elector of Treves, but 
a few years later (1794") it was taken by the French , who exacted 
a contribution of 4 million fr. and made it the capital of the De- 
partment of the Rhine and Moselle. On 1st Jan., 1814, the French 
were compelled by the allies to evacuate the town , and the follow- 
ing year it became Prussian. 

The * Church of St. Castor (PI. 18), at the junction of the 
rivers, was founded in 836; the present structure, dating from 1208, 
is said to present the earliest example of the 'Lombard style' in the 
Rhenish Provinces. The pointed vaulting belongs to 1498. The 
N. choir contains a * Monument of Archb. Kuno von Falkenstein 
(d. 1388, see p. 62), a Gothic sarcophagus-niche with fresco (Ado- 
ration of the Saviour, on the r. St. John and St. Castor, on the 1. 
the archbishop kneeling , Mary, and Peter), ascribed to the old 
master Wilhelm of Cologne. Two line modern frescoes adorn the 
choir. The Monument of St. Riza, who according to tradition was 
a daughter of Louis the Pious, in the N. aisle , is modern. Portal 
re-erected in 1862. 

Opposite the entrance of the church stands the Castor-Brunnen 
(PI. 6), erected by the last French prefect in commemoration of the 
French campaign against Russia , with the inscription: ' An 1812. 
Memorable par la campagne contre les Busses. Sous le prefecturat 
de Jules Doazari. The Russian general St. Priest, who entered the 
town on 1st Jan. , 1814 , w ith exquisite irony caused the words : 
' Vu et approuve par nous Commandant Russe de laville de Coblence, 
le 1. jan. 1814\ to be added. 

Adjacent to the Castorplatz is the General-Commando (PI. 10), 
or residence of the commander-in-chief of the Rhenish province, 
* to which some historical interest attaches. It was formerly the seat 
of the Counts of Leyen , and in 1791 afforded an asylum to the 
Counts of Provence and Artois. In 1800 it became the seat of the 
French prefect, and in 1804 (17th — 20th Sept.) was visited by Na- 
poleon and the empress. 

A few steps to the N. bring the visitor to the Mosel - Strasse, 
following which in a straight direction, past the crane and under 
the bridge, he will reach the Wolfsthor. Entering the town by this 
gate, turning to the 1. and passing (r.) the Metternicher Hof ', the 
birthplace of Prince Metternich (d. 1859), he reaches the * Moselle 
Bridge with its 14 arches , erected by Elector Baldwin in 1344 
(tower added in 1832), which commands a tine view of Ehrenbreit- 
stein. Over it are conveyed the pipes which supply the town with 



76 Route 15. 



COBLENZ. 



Palace. 



water from the heights of Metternich , 2 M. distant. A little 
farther up the river is the Railway -Bridge-, 3 M. beyond it is the 
village of Rubenach with its tall spire. 

As the town is re-entered, the ancient Burg (PI. 3), or Arehi- 
episcopal Palace , erected in 1276 , stands on the 1. ; the handsome 
staircase of the tower is more recent. It is now a manufactory of 
papier mache and japanned tin-wares. 

The other churches are uninteresting. The Liebfrauenkirche 
(Church of Our Lady , PI. 22) was founded in the 13th cent. , but 
not completed till the loth. Gothic choir added in 1405, spires 
added after the siege of 1688. — The Carmelitenkirche (PI. 21), 
erected in 1673, is fitted up as a garrison - church. — The (Prot.) 
Florinskirche (PI. 19) was built at the beginning of the 13th cent., 
choir added after 1356. — Near it is the Kaufhaus (Merchants' 
Hall, PI. 16), erected in 1480 as a town-hall , and used as such till 
1805. A bearded figure below the clock rolls its eyes at every stroke 
of the pendulum, and opens its mouth at every full hour. 

The Palace (PI. 34), in the 'Neustadt' , a building of no archi- 
tectural pretension, was erected by Clemens Wenceslaus, last Elec- 
tor of Treves (d. 1812) , in 1778 — 86 , and occupied by him till 
1794. Soon after his departure the French converted it into a hos- 
pital and a barrack. It was subsequently restored by the Prussian 
government , and fitted up as a palace in 1845. The N. wing (on 
the 1. as the visitor approaches) contains the Palace Chapel , con- 
structed in the Renaissance style, used as the Prot. church of the 
garrison. Over the altar, a large copy of Leonardo da Vinci's 'Last 
Supper'. Adjoining it is the English Chapel, which was liberally 
placed at the disposition of the English residents by the Queen of 
Prussia (resident chaplain , dependent on voluntary contributions). 
Part of the ground- floor is occupied by the 'Oberpresident' of the 
Rhenish Province. The upper apartments , to which a broad stair- 
case ascends, are employed as a summer residence by the Empress 
Augusta (visitors ring for the castellan in the lower corridor of the 
N. wing, near the entrance to the chapel; fee 10 Sgr. , more for a 
party). 

The Electoral Hall contains portraits of the last Electors of Treves, 
from Richard v. Greiffenklau (1511 — 31) to Clemens Wenceslaus (1768 — 
1804); an album with portraits of distinguished persons connected with 
the town of Coblenz from 1792 to 1866, &c. and the writing-table of 
Frederick the Great. In the large Festsaal are busts of the royal fam- 
ily; that of the empress was modelled by the crown-princess Victoria. — 
Several of the other apartments contain specimens of work done by 
the empress, her daughter the grand-duchess of Baden, and her daughter- 
in-law the crown-princess of Prussia ; also portraits of the royal family, 
Gobelins tapestry presented by Louis XVI. to Frederick the Great, several 
modern pictures by Deschwanden , Settegast, <fec. , gifts presented by the 
Rhenish towns on the occasion of the 'silver wedding-day 1 (25th) of the 
king (1854). All these rooms afford fine views of the Rhine, the hills of 
Pfaffendorf, and Ehrenbreitstein. 

In the Clemens-Platz (military music see p. 73) , adjoining the 



Environs. 



COBLENZ. 



15. Route. 77 



planted Esplanade , rises a fountain - obelisk , erected by Clemens 
Wenceslaus in 1791, dedicated l vicinis suis\ Opposite to it, adjoin- 
ing the Hotel de Treves , is the Theatre (PI. 37) , the interior of 
which was restored in 1869. 

The handsome S. gates, the Mainzer-Thor (PI. C, 4) and Lbhr-Thor 
(PL A, B, 3), serve as barracks. A glance at the ramparts from the 
drawbridges will convey an idea of the fortifications , which , how- 
ever, are far less important than the outworks of Ehrenbreitstein, 
the Karthause, and the Petersberg. Near the Mainzer Thor, with- 
in the town, is the approach to the * Railway Bridge (PI. D, E, 
4,5) over the Rhine, an elegant structure of three iron arches, each 
with a span of 106 yds. , resting on massive stone buttresses , and 
commanding a beautiful view. A walk across this bridge (toll 2 Pf.) 
and back by the bridge of boats is strongly recommended. 

At the Holz - Thor (PI. D, 3) begins the beautiful * Rhine Pro- 
menade (PI. C, 5, 6), extending along the bank of the river nearly 
as far as the Laubach. It may also be reached in 5 min. from the 
Mainzer Thor by turning to the L through the glacis immediately 
beyond the gate. These grounds , which were laid out under the 
auspices of the Empress Augusta, should be visited for the sake of 
the charming views they command. They are tastefully laid out, and 
afford a delightful walk , but the effect is somewhat marred by the 
paltry vases and figures with which they are garnished. On this walk, 
at the end of the glacis, is a bust of the poet Max von Schenkendorf 
(PI. 33). Farther from the town a number of villas and summer- 
houses extend along the bank of the river. Among them is the 
Trinkhalle (PI. C , 5). Beyond it is the Rondell , or Louisen-Platz, 
with a small temple commanding a fine view (pensions, see p. 73). 
The grounds terminate at the fantastic Muschellaube , or 'shell ar- 
bour' (iy 2 M. from the Holzthor), beyond which , however, a path 
continues to skirt the river as far as the Laubach, 1 M. farther (see 
Plan of Environs). 

The fortifications on the Karthause (528 ft.) , a lofty plateau 
lying between the Rhine and the Moselle , consist of Fort Alexan- 
der on the summit, and lower down Fort Constantine, which occu- 
pies the site of an ancient Carthusian monastery. The road , which 
ascends the hill between rows of trees and leads to the Hunnsriicken, 
was formerly the high-road toBingen andMayence. Charming view 
about half-way up ; in the foreground the rich plain of the Rhine 
and the island of Oberwerth ; in the background a semicircle of 
picturesque hills with the castles of Stolzenfels and Lahneck. The 
traveller now soon reaches a broad plateau, Vfe M. from Coblenz, 
which is employed as a military drilling ground, and in 1870 — 71 
was occupied by an encampment of 10,000 French prisoners 
of war. 

On the brink of the Karthause facing the Moselle, 150 paces S. 
of the military rifle - practice ground, is a small enclosed spot 



78 Route 15. 



C0BLEN2. 



with seats ('Schbne AussiM) , which affords a striking glimpse 
of the valley of the Moselle. The road to the N. along the brow of 
the hill, on which lies the burial-place of the French prisoners who 
died in 1870 — 71, leads to a broad road planted with poplars, which, 
continuing nearly on the same level , and affording a succession of 
line views, skirts Fort Alexander, passes above the picturesque Ce- 
metery, and joins the main road near FortConstantine. This entire 
round is M. in length. — The road descending to the 1., about 
Y 4 M. from the Schone Aussicht, leads to Moselweis (p. 133). 

The * Kiihkopf, a wooded eminence 1190 ft. above the sea- 
level, rising to the S. of the Karthause, commands an imposing and 
peculiar view, embracing both the Rhine and Moselle ; to the 1. rise 
the volcanic peaks of the Vorder - Eifel , the Camillenberg with its 
chapel, the Hochsimmer and Hochstein, farther to the 1. the Niir- 
burg in the distance; to the N. are the Linz Mts. (p. 58), which 
rise above the other hills enclosing the valley of the Rhine (Seven 
Mts. not visible); to the N.E. is the broad Montabaurer Hohe. The 
pavilion on the top affords protection against wind and rain. The 
Kiihkopf is reached by several different routes. From the Karthause 
the broad Hunnsriicken road is followed forl 1 ^ M., passing a forest- 
er's house , to the Kiihbrunnen , a spring on the r. (about M. 
from Coblenz) , where the road is quitted by a good path ascending 
to the r. in 10 min. to the Louisenlinde (*view to the E. towards 
the valley of the Lahn) , and through pine-wood in 5 min. more to 
the hut on the summit. About 3 / 4 M. beyond the Kiihbrunnen a 
carriage -road diverges to the r. from the Hunnsriicken road, and 
leads to the top in y 4 hr. more. — Another route is from Coblenz 
by the Mayence road to the Laubach , 1% M. from the Mainzer 
Thor, where a path to the r. between the brewery and the grounds 
of the hydropathic establishment ascends to the Kiihbrunnen in 
Y2 hr. (thence to the top, see above). — The most beautiful return 
route is by the carriage-road (which pedestrians only are permitted 
to use; see Plan) to ( 3 / 4 hr.) Capellen, descending to the 1. from 
the Hunnsriicken road a few minutes' walk beyond the road to the 
summit of the Kiihkopf, and passing the castle of Stolzenfels 
(p. 81). Coblenz may then be regained by railway or steamer. 

Beyond the Moselle Bridge rises the Petersberg , crowned 
by Fort Franz, within the precincts of which, to the 1. on entering, 
a marble slab indicates the grave of the French general Hoche (p. 62), 
whose remains were brought from Wetzlar to Coblenz and interred 
here, near those of Marceau his companion in arms ( c soldat a 16 cms, 
general a 22 ans J J, who fell at Altenkirchen in 1796. The monu- 
ment and remains of the latter were, on the construction of the for- 
tifications in 1819 , removed to the foot of the hill, on the E. side, 
to the 1. of the Cologne road, 3 / 4 M. from the bridge. Byron's well- 
known-lines : 



EHRENBREITSTEIN. 16. Route. 79 



{ By Coblenz, on a gentle rise of ground, 
There is a small and simple pyramid, 
Crowning the summit of the verdant mound", 
Beneath its base are hero's ashes hid 
Our enemy, — but let not that forbid 
Honour to Marceau V &c. 

refer to the monument in its original position. Numerous French 
soldiers who died in the prisoner's camp on the Petersberg in 1870 
— 71 are interred on the slopes behind the monument. 

About 1 M. to the N.W. of Marceau's monument is Schonbornslust, 
once a villa of the Elector of Treves, and the residence of the Bourbon 
princes and other illustrious fugitives during the first French revolution, 

Ehrenbreitstein and Asterstein. 

Cards of admission to Ehrenbreitstein (5 Sgr. each, proceeds destined 
for charitable purposes) at the office of the second commandant (PI. 38), 
first door to the r. within the gate, and opposite the railway station. Vi- 
sitors are received at the top and conducted over the fortress by a ser- 
geant (5 — 10 Sgr.). Two hrs. suffice for the walk from Coblenz to the 
summit and back. — View from the Asterstein (p. 80) similar to that from 
Ehrenbreitstein. No permission necessary. 

A Bridge of Boats (PI. D, E, 2) about 400 yds. in length, 
connects Coblenz with Thai Ehrenbreitstein (Hotel zum Konig), a 
small town with 2504 inhab. , prettily situated in a valley between 
the heights crowned with the fortresses of Ehrenbreitstein and Aster- 
stein. Along the river runs the unsightly embankment of the Right 
Rhenish Railway. 

The road to the fortress of Ehrenbreitstein passes the office of 
the commandant on the r. (see above) , and the railway station (PL 
39) on the 1. ; opposite the latter is a handsome Renaissance build- 
ing, erected by the Electors in 1747 as a residence for the governors, 
now used as a provision magazine. Beyond the next gate the road 
diverges to the r. and ascends the hill in windings. The steps which 
ascend the rock direct from the Rhine , 575 in number , are now 
disused. 

Opposite the influx of the Moselle rises the majestic fortress of 
^Ehrenbreitstein, justly termed the Gibraltar of the Rhine, situated 
on a precipitous rock, 387 ft. above the Rhine, and 573 ft. above the 
sea. The castle which formerly occupied the site is said to have been 
presented in 636 by the Franconian king Dagobert to the Arch- 
bishops of Treves , who were confirmed in their possession by the 
Emp. Henry II. in 1018. It was subsequently enlarged and streng- 
thened, and became a fortress of great importance. It has only twice 
succumbed to an enemy , once when taken by stratagem , and once 
when reduced by famine. On the first of these occasions it fell into 
the hands of the French in 1631 , during the absence of the greater 
part of the garrison. 

During the French revolutionary war, Ehrenbreitstein was 
besieged four times, in 1795, 1796, 1797, and 1798, and was fin- 
ally surrendered, 27th Jan., 1799, by the brave Colonel Faber, after 



SO Route 15. EHRENBREIT STEIN. 



all the provisions had been exhausted. The French added new in- 
trenchments on the N. side . but in consequence of the Peace of 
Luneville they blew up and evacuated the fortress in 1801. At the 
second Peace of Paris , 15 million fr. were paid according to treaty 
by the French to the Prussian government for the restoration of the 
fortifications. The works were begun in 1816 under the direction of 
General Aster, and completed in ten years, at an expense of 8 mill, 
dollars (1:200,000/.). 

The *View from the summit is one of the finest on the Rhine. It 
comprises the rich plain of the Rhine from Stolzenfels to Andernach 
and the volcanic peaks of the Maifeld andEifel(R. 13). Immediately 
below are the Rhine, the Moselle, and the triangular town of Coblenz. 

*Fort Asterstein, situated on the Pfaffendorfer Hohe, to the S. 
of Ehrenbreitstein . completes the fortifications of this bank of the 
Rhine. A projecting terrace on the N.W. side of the fort bears an 
Obelisk (PI. 8: tine view) to the memory of the soldiers of the 
8th army-corps who fell in the campaign of 1866. The Louisentlnirm 
on the W. slope of the hill derives its name from the Grand-Duchess 
Louisa of Baden . daughter of the king of Prussia , who spent some 
of her early years at Coblenz. 

The hill on which the obelisk stands may be reached in 20 min. 
from the bridge of boats. After crossing the latter the traveller pro- 
ceeds in a straight direction to the end of the Kirch- Strasse (see PI. 
F. 2 ) . and follows the road to the r. Where the" latter turns to the 
1. . a shorter route ascends by the steps to the r. . crosses the new 
and uncompleted road leading gradually up from the Promenade 
(PI. F. 3). and again ascends by steps. Half-way up . the Cafe 
Rheinlust , and beyond it the Louisenthurm (see above) is 
passed. — The following route is recommended to the traveller ap- 
proaching the hill from the railway bridge. After crossing the bridge 
turn to the r. . following the road as far as the house immediate- 
ly before the church of Pfaffendorf is reached : here take the road 
to the 1.. cross the brook, pass under the railway, and gradually 
a-cend the hill. On the height this road is quitted by a new road 
intersecting the fortifications of the Glockenberg to the 1. (see Plan), 
and afterwards skirting the brow of the hill and commanding a fine 
view of Coblenz. 

The post-road which ascends the valley at the back of the town 
of Ehrenbreitstein leads by Niederberg to ('2 M.) Arenberg (to which 
-horter paths also lead through the picturesque Muhlenthal , and by 
the so-called Kniebrerhe. in V2 nr 0- a village (Bother Halm; Belle- 
vue) with a large new pilgrimage church, inlaid in the interior with 
stones and shells. The path passing the pilgrimage stations is taste- 
fully kept and affords charming views of the valley of the Rhine. 
The road diverging to the r. beyond Arenberg passes a forester s 
house and leads to (41/ 2 M.) Ems ( p. 142); 



STOLZENFELS. 



16. Route. 81 



Coblenz and Ehrenbreitstein were visited in 1774 by Goethe, who 
resided in the last house in Ehrenbreitstein on the 1. before entering the 
fortress, at that time the residence of the Chancellor de la Roche. The 
poet describes his visit in the 3rd part of his 'Fiction and Truth. 1 

16. The Rhine from Coblenz to Bingen. 

Distances: Coblenz to Capellen 4, Rhense 2, Niederspay (opposite 
Braubach) li| 2 , Boppard 4^2, Salzig 3, Hirzenach 2i| 4j St. Goar 3s| 4 , Ober- 
wesel 5^2, Caub 3, Bacharach l 1 ^, Rheindiebach l 1 ^, Lorch (Niederheim- 
bach) 3 |4, Rheinstein 3 3 |4, Bingen 3, total distance 39 M. — Railway on 
the Left Bank see R. 18, on the Right Bank by Oberlahnstein to Riides- 
heim in 1 3 |4 hr. see R. 25. — Steamboat in 5 (down in 3) hrs. Piers 
at Oberlahnstein , Boppard , St. Goar , and Bingen \ small-boat stations Ca- 
pellen, Spay, Camp, Hirzenach, St. Goarshausen, Oberwesel , Caub , Bach- 
arach, Lorch, Niederheimbach. — From Coblenz to Bingen both banks of 
the river are Prussian. 

Beyond the bridge of boats the steamer passes the palace on the 
r., and beyond the railway-bridge the picturesque village of Pfaffen- 
dorf on the 1. , opposite to which extend the beautiful promenades 
of the W. bank. 

In a valley to the r. , partially concealed by the island of Ober- 
werth , lies the hydropathic establishment of Laubach , managed by 
Dr. Schiiller (charges 12 — 25 Thlr. per week for board, lodging, baths, 
and medical attendance). The vineyards of (l.)Horchheim^*flo^erJ 
produce good red wine; the plain between this village and the mouth 
of the Lahn is rich and fruitful. (1.) Niederlahnstein (Douque) lies 
on the r: bank of the Lahn (p. 142). Below it, at the mouth of the 
Lahn, stands the solitary Romanesque Church of St. John, surround- 
ed by trees. It was partially destroyed during the Thirty Years' 
War , after which it fell to decay pending the issue of a lawsuit 
with respect to the obligation to keep it in repair. The process 
lasted 40 years , and in 1844 one of the towers and a portion ol the 
nave fell. It was at length restored in 1857 , and is now kept in 
repair by the Nassovian archaeological society. 

Above (r.) Capellen (* Stolzenfels, with a shady garden ; *Belle- 
vue) rises the royal *Castle of Stolzenfels (highest point 420 ft. 
above the Rhine) , approached by a winding road of easy ascent, 
crossing a viaduct, and passing two Roman mile-stones. Beyond the 
Klause (now stabling), a drawbridge is crossed and the castle entered 
(fee 10 Sgr. for 1 pers. ; 20 Sgr. to 1 Thlr. for a party). As a lim- 
ited number of persons only are conducted through the chateau at 
a time, visiters are frequently kept waiting outside, where they may 
enjoy the exquisite view from the S.E. corner tower, adjoining the 
entrance. — Capellen is a railway and steamboat-station. Carriage 
from Coblenz to Capellen, see p. 74; boat from Capellen to Coblenz 
1 Thlr. Donkeys at the foot of the hill: to the castle 8, there and 
back 12 Sgr. ; to the Kiihkopf 20 Sgr. , there and back 1 Thlr. 
Stolzenfels is 4 M. from Coblenz, the Konigsstuhl iy 4 M. farther. 

Stolzenfels, greatly strengthened, if not entirely built, by Arnold 
von Isenburg, Archbishop of Treves , in 1250 , was frequently a re- 

Bjedeker's Rhine. 5th Edit. Q 



82 Route 16. 



KONIGSSTUHL. 



From Coblenz 



sidence of the archbishops. Down to 1688, when it was destroyed 
by the French, it was garrisoned by the Electors of Treves. In 1802 
the rain was purchased by the town of Coblenz , and in 1823 pre- 
sented to Fred. William IV., when crown-prince. It has since been 
completely restored at a cost of 53,000 1. 

The Chapel is decorated with ^frescoes on a gold ground by E. 
Deger , representing the Creation, Fall, First Sacrifices, &c. — On the ex- 
ternal wall, above the garden-hall, is a fresco by L a sin sky : the Emp. 
Rupert and his nephew the Count of Hohenzollern visiting the Archbishop 
of Treves at Stolzenfels , 20th Aug. , 1400. — At the side of the entrance 
flight of steps , an ancient sculptured chimney piece with reliefs , bearing 
the arms of Cologne. — The walls of the Kleine Rittersaal are em- 
bellished with six *frescoes, by Professor Stilke of Diisseldorf, illustrative 
of the principal attributes of chivalry: 1. Faith: Godfrey de Bouillon at 
the Holy Sepulchre after the conquest of Jerusalem; 2. Justice: Rudolph 
of Hapsburg sitting in judgment on the robber knights ; 3. Poetry : 
Minstrels accompanying king Philip of Swabia and his queen Irene on a 
pleasure excursion on the Rhine; 4. Love: The Emp. Frederick II. wel- 
coming his bride Isabella of England ; 5. Loyalty : Hermann von Sieben- 
eichen, sacrificing his life to save the Emp. Fred. Barbarossa-, 6. Bravery: 
The blind king John of Bohemia at the battle of Crecy. — The Grosse 
Rittersaal contains a valuable collection of goblets, armour, and weap- 
ons. — The upper rooms contain a modern picture of Gutenberg, at 
three different periods , about 50 small pictures by old masters , Diirer, 
Holbein, Van Dyck , Rembrandt , &c. , an ancient Byzantine cross, antique 
furniture, and other curiosities. 

View. The narrowest and most romantic part of the valley of the 
Rhine , which begins with the castle of Ehrenfels below Bingen , ter- 
minates at Stolzenfels. The view, scar cely surpassed by any on the Rhine, 
comprises the Marksburg, Braubach , Rhense , Oberlahnstein, and part of 
the valley of the Lahn. Opposite the castle rises the AUerheiligenberg, 
with pilgrimage chapel. At the confluence of the Lahn and Rhine stands 
the Romanesque Church of St. John, beyond it Niederlahnstein. Farther 
down the river is the island of Obemoerth, with its large dwelling-house, 
once a convent. — In the background the fortress of Ehrenbreitstein is 
one of the most conspicuous objects ; opposite to it is Fort Constantine, 
and between them Coblenz ; farther distant the small town of Vallendar 
with its handsome church. 

1. Oberlahnstein (Hotel Welter; Frank; Hotel Lahneek; Rhein. 
Hof; Stolzenfels) , mentioned in an old document as early 
as 890, is surrounded with remnants of ancient walls. The Schloss, 
once a residence of the Electors of Mayence , was founded in 1394 ; 
the new part belongs to the last century. On the bank of the Rhine 
is a depot of iron-ore. (Railway to Ems and Wetzlar , see p. 142; 
to Wiesbaden, p. 163.) 

On a rocky eminence behind Oberlahnstein rises the picturesque 
castle of *Lahneck, recently restored with considerable taste. It 
commands a charming view , for which the morning light is most 
favourable. 

About 1^4 M. above Capellen , between the high road and the 
Rhine, is the Konigsstuhl (king's seat), partially concealed by trees 
from the steamboat passenger. The original structure was erected 
in 1376 by the Emp. Charles IV., but at the beginning of the present 
century had almost disappeared. It was rebuilt in 1^43 , partly out 
of the old materials. The Electors held their meetings on the stone 



to Bingen. 



BRAUBACH. 



16. Route. 83 



seat on the top. The situation was chosen from its proximity to the 
dominions of the four Rhenish Electors , Braubach belonging to the 
Palatinate, Rhense to Cologne, Stolzenfels to Treves, and Lahnstein 
to Mayence. Here many emperors were elected, decrees issued, and 
treaties concluded. Near the Konigsstuhl is a mineral spring , dis- 
covered in 1857 in the bed of the Rhine. 

On the fertile bank of the Rhine opposite the Konigsstuhl, a 
small white chapel, near the S. gate of Oberlahnstein , is visible 
among the trees, where, on 20th Aug., 1400, the Rhenish Electors 
deprived the Bohemian king Wenzel of the imperial crown. On the 
following day they crossed to the Konigsstuhl , and elected Count 
Palatine Rupert III. emperor in his stead. 

Above the Konigsstuhl ( 3 / 4 M.) lies the smalltown of (r.) Rhense 
[Konigsstuhl, with garden; Siebenborn), once belonging to the Elec- 
torate of Cologne, and still surrounded by the walls and fosses con- 
structed in 1370 by Archbishop Fred. III. of Cologne. — Small boat 
to Coblenz about l 1 ^ Thlr. A footpath to (1 hr.) Boppard ascends 
to the r. at the way-post, outside the S. gate. — On the bank of 
the river, 1 M. above Rhense , is a cotton-mill. Beyond it , sur- 
rounded by fruit-trees, the small village of (r.) Brey. 

1. Braubach {Arzbdeher ; Deutsches Haas, with beer -garden, 
near the station; Philippsburg), invested with municipal privileges 
by the Emp. Rudolph in 1276 , is commanded by the imposing 
castle of *Marksburg, 492 ft. above the Rhine. In 1437 Count 
Philip of Katzenelnbogen founded a chapel in it , dedicated to St. 
Mark, after whom the castle has since been named. It was formerly 
used by the government of Nassau as a state-prison , but is now let 
for private purposes. The summit affords a pleasing survey of the 
grassy dales at the back, and a portion of the Rhine. Several Swedish 
cannons of the Thirty Years' War and French guns are preserved 
here. Two paths ascend to the fortress, one at the back, and another 
(cart-track) at the upper end of the town, passing the ancient Chapel 
of St. Martin, and leading round the E. side of the hill. The en- 
trance is on the N. side. — The little town with the castle above it 
is very picturesque, though somewhat disfigured by the railway 
embankments. 

In the fresh green valley behind the town, enclosed by beautiful 
wooded hills, a road gradually ascends to a (I 1 !* M.) linger-post, where 
the road leading to the 1. to Dachsenhausen is to be avoided. On the 
hill (2 M.) the pine-wood to the r. is traversed in the direction of the 
two barren summits, the second of which is the higher. In J j2 hr. more the 
traveller reaches the *Daehskopf, a summit with a trigonometrical signal 
for surveyors, commanding an extensive prospect of the Rhine as far as 
a point below Andernach, the Eifel Bits., the Taunus, the Seven Mts., &c. 
A good road descends thence to (5 M.) Camp (p. 85). Those who are 
not disposed for so long a walk will be rewarded by penetrating about 
l l |2 M. into the valley behind the Marksburg. The contrast is very strik- 
ing when the valley of the Rhine is quitted by the narrow rock-hewn 
track passing the Chapel of St. Martin , parallel to the Rhine , and also 
leading to the castle. 

6* 



84 Route 16. 



BOPPARD. 



From Coblenz 



From Braubach a road leads over the hills to the Baths of Ems, 
l l \ 2 M. distant. Refreshments at the Lalinsteiner Forsthaus , near Friicht. 
Fine view of Dausenau and the valley of the Lahn in descending. 

The first valley above Braubach contains a chalybeate spring, the Dink- 
holder Brunnen; the second is traversed by a path which ascends the hill, 
commanding a fine view , and leads to Welmich (l l \2 M.) , emerging from 
the wild and rocky ravine at the back of the village near the 'Mouse' 
(p. 86). 

Above Braubach are the (r.) villages of Niederspay and Oberspay 
(*Rindsfiisser), connected by an avenue of walnut-trees. 

On the wooded height above (1.) Osterspay (Anker) stands the 
chateau of Liebeneck, one of the prettiest spots on the Rhine. 

From LiebenecTc to Camp (p. 85) a path traverses the lofty table- 
land, commanding a most striking view of the Rhine from Salzig to below 
Boppard, and the heights of the Hunnsriicken, of which the Fleckertshohe 
(p. 85) is the most conspicuous. In the opposite direction this path is 
less agreeable, being a steep ascent through shadeless vineyards. 

On the hill to the r.. a little above Osterspay, stands the Jacobs- 
berg er Hof, 523 ft. above the Rhine , the property of the Grammar 
School (formerly Jesuits' college) at Coblenz ■ a cart-road leads thence 
to Rhense, 3 M. distant, cutting off the circuit of 6 M. formed by 
the river. Then on the 1. the village of Filsen. 

r. Boppard (*Spiegel, *Rheinischer Hof, both on the Rhine; 
*Post and Closmann in the town), the Roman Baudobrica, once a 
town of the empire, belonged to the Electors of Treves down to 1501. 
The name appears to be of Celtic origin. The Notitia Dignitatum 
L triusque Imperii , a statistical survey of the Roman Empire in the 
2nd cent., mentions Boppard as the residence of the praefectus mili- 
tum ballistariorum, and stones found in the neighbourhood indicate 
that it was a station of the 13th Legion. The wall enclosing the 
interior of the town , though much damaged , is obviously of Roman 
origin, being constructed of concrete. The outer and far more ex- 
tensive wall is mediaeval. Boppard, like St. Goar and Bacharach, 
once boasted of a Lodge of the Knights Templar, fragments of which 
with round-arched windows are situated at the upper end of the 
town. Knights Templar of Boppard are mentioned among the cru- 
saders at the siege of Ptolema'is. 

The Pfarrkirche, in the late Romanesque style, dating from 1200, 
is remarkable for its peculiar vaulting. The Carmeliterkirche con- 
tains the monument of a Countess von Eltz (d. 1500), with a good 
marble relief representing the Trinity, and carved stalls of the 15th 
cent, interesting to the connoisseur. The Prot. Church, built in 
1851, is said to have been designed by Frederick William IV. The 
old monastery of St. Martin , 3 / 4 M. to the S. of the town, is now a 
reformatory for Protestant children. The suppressed Franciscan 
Monastery with its church has been converted by government into 
a seminary for Rom. Cath. teachers. 

The Marienberg, a large building which rises at the back of the 
town, formerly a Benedictine nunnery, is now a hydropathic estab- 
lishment. It is well situated, 100 ft. above the Rhine, and is 



to Bingen. 



BORNHOFEN. 



16. Route. 85 



supplied with abundance of excellent water. Below Boppard , on 
the bank of the river, is the Muhlbad, another water-cure establish- 
ment , the property of Dr. Heusner. Charges at both for board, 
lodging , baths , and medical attendance , 12^2 Thlr. and upwards 
per week. 

The finest excursion from Boppard is to the *Fleckertsh6he (1745 ft.), 
5 M. distant, l 1 ^ M. to the 1. of the road to the Hunnsrucken, which must 
be left at the pine-wood, soon after passing the mile-stone marked '0,84\ 
The very extensive view comprises the Seven Mts., Eifel, Hochwald, Idar 
and Taunus, and Monrepos (p. 61). From the E. side of the summit, on 
which there is a landmark , a small part of the Rhine is visible near 
Bornhofen (see below). A few min. walk below the summit are several 
poor cottages, in the highest of which good water may be procured. The 
path descending to (1 hr.) Salzig (p. 86) through meadows and woods can- 
not be missed. The traveller may avail himself of the diligence from 
Boppard to Simmern (9 a. in. and 3. 45 p. m.) as far as the point where 
the road to the Fleckertshohe diverges. — A direct footpath leads to the 
summit , leading through pleasant woods the greater part of the way , in 
1^2 hr., but cannot easily be found without a guide. 

The Alte Burg, a hill below Boppard, at the mouth of the Muhlen- 
thal (where the Muhlbad is situated , see above) , is another favourite 
point of view. The pavilion on the summit is a conspicuous object from 
the river. Beyond the pavilion, a few hundred paces along the brow of 
he slope, is the 'Vierseenplatz -1 , or 'place of the four lakes' 1 , whence four 
apparently unconnected parts of the Rhine are visible. 

From Boppard to the Moselle (9 M.). The road leads through 
Buchholz (1265 ft.), to which a guide (10 Sgr.) should be taken. About l 1 ^ 
M. beyond Herschwiesen, a path to the 1. descends to the Ehrenburg (p. 133)} 
thence through the Ehrenburger Thai to Brodenbach (p. 133). 

Above Boppard , on the 1., lies Camp (*Kauth, on the railway; 
Anker, on the Rhine), so called from the remains of a supposed 
Roman intrenchment on the hill , more probably dating from the 
Thirty Years' War. (Path over the hills to Liebeneck, see p. 84.) 
A road shaded with walnut-trees leads along the bank from Camp 
to the ( 3 / 4 M.) convent of 

1. Bornhofen, with a Gothic Church erected in 1435, a great 
resort of pilgrims. On a rocky eminence above the convent stand 
the twin castles of 

Sterrenberg and Liebenstein, better known as The Brothers, con- 
nected by a sharp chine of rock. The legend of these castles may 
thus be briefly told. 

Conrad and Heinrich, sons of the knight Bayer von Boppard, the lord 
of Liebenstein, were enamoured of their foster-sister, the beautiful Hilde- 
garde. Heinrich with rare generosity tore himself away and joined the 
crusades, leaving his brother Conrad to win the prize. That his son and 
the fair bride might still be near him , the old knight built the castle of 
Sterrenberg for their reception , but his death occurring before its com- 
pletion, the nuptials were postponed. Meanwhile Conrad s heart grew cold 
towards Hildegarde. Hearing of the valiant deeds of his absent brother, 
his soul burned to share his honours, and wearied of an inactive life, he 
joined the crusades. Hildegarde now passed her days in the lonely castle 
of Liebenstein , brooding over her sad lot , not doubting the affection of 
Conrad, but weeping over the uncertainty of his return. Suddenly Conrad 
returned to Sterrenberg with a lovely Grecian bride, and the outraged Hilde- 
garde , stunned by the blow, shut herself up in the loneliest chamber of 
her dreary abode, and refused to see any one but her attendant. Late 
one evening a stranger knight demanded the hospitality ot the castle. He 



S6 Boute 16, 



ST. GO AB . 



From Coblenz- 



proved to he the chivalrous Heinrich. who. hearing of his brother'^ per- 
fidy, resolved to avenge his foster-sister's wrongs." He accordingly chal- 
lenged Conrad to single combat, hut before the brothers' 1 swords had cross- 
ed, Hildegarde"? figure interposed between them and insisted on a recon- 
ciliation, to which they reluctantly consented. Hildegarde then retired to 
the convent of Bornhofen . at the base of the rock on which the castle -; 
stand. Conrad's Grecian bride soon proved faithless , and he, overcome 
with shame and remorse, threw himself on his generous brother's breast, 
exclaiming that no consolation was now left him but his friendship. Thus 
their estrangement ended, and the brothers thenceforth lived together in 
harmony and retirement at Liebenstein , while Sterrenherg was" for ever 
deserted. 

Sterrenberg was held as early as the 12th cent, as a fief of the 
empire by the knights of Boland, and afterwards came into the pos- 
session of the Electors of Treves. The date of its abandonment is 
unknown. It lies on the extreme brink of the rock, separated from 
Liebenstein by a massive wall. The ruins are interesting and com- 
mand a line view of the rocky ravines "beneath (restaurant). 

r. Salzig (Schloss Liebenstein), so called from its weak saline 
spring . lies in the midst of a vast orchard , whence ship-loads of 
cherries are annually exported to the Lower Rhine , Holland , and 
England. Farther up (l.J lies the village of Xieder-Kestert (Stern), 
in a fertile situation. 

r. Hirzenach (Comes); at the back of the village are slate- 
quarries : on the hill above stands a quarrymen's tavern. At the 
upper end of the village is a small Gothic synagogue. A handsome 
building, once a deanery, and the church, built about 1170. 
formerly belonged to the Abbey of Siegburg. Ehrenthal is in- 
habited by miners who work the lead-mines in the vicinity. 

1. Welmich, picturesquely situated, with a small Gothic church, 
is commanded by the ruins of the Thurnberg . or Deurenburg . Thi> 
stronghold . begun by Archbishop Boemund of Treves . and 
completed in 1363 by his successor Kuno von Falkenstein. was de- 
risively called the *Maus (mouse) by the Counts of Katzenelnbogen, 
in contradistinction to their -Cat." Ascent somewhat fatiguing, but 
the pedestrian is rewarded by a fine view from the summit, especi- 
ally towards St. Gear. The interior, in good preservation . contains 
a few points of architectural interest. (Path over the hills to 
Braubach, see p. 84.) 

r. St. Goar (* Schneider : at the lower end of the town ; Rhein* 
fels y with restaurant, opposite the pier; Lowe: Zum kalten Keller) 
owes its name and origin to a chapel founded in the time of Sieg- 
bert, king of Austrasia (570). by St. Goar. who preached the gospel 
here, and was afterwards revered as a saint. Down to 1704 it was 
the capital of the County of Katzenelnbogen (see below"). The little 
town now presents an imposing appearance . for which it is prin- 
cipally indebted to the extensive ruins of Rheinfels. The Prot. 
church , built about 1468 , contains monuments of the Landgrave 
Philip (d. 1583) and his countess. A flaw in the altar is said to 
have been made by Gustavus Adolphus in 163*2 , who, indignant at 



to Bingen. 



ST. GOARSHAUSEN. 16. Route, 87 



the damage done to the church by the Spaniards , violently struck 
the altar with his sword. The crypt on the E. side once contained 
the bones of St. Goar. — The Rom. Cath. church is adorned with 
an old stone effigy of the saint with inscription. 

A curious old custom , the l Hanselri' , or Initiation , which prevailed 
here till the beginning of the steamboat traffic in 1827 , is said to have 
dated from the time of Charlemagne. Every traveller who visited the 
town for the first time was attached to a ring in the wall of the Custom- 
house , and obliged to submit to the water or the wine -ordeal. If the 
former was selected, a good ducking was the result ^ the more agreeable 
alternative consisted in drinking a goblet of wine to the memory of 
Charlemagne, the sovereign of England, the reigning prince, and the 
members of society who enforced obedience to the custom. The traveller 
was then crowned and invested with the rights of a citizen and member 
of the society , and finally had to present a donation to the poor and 
enter his name in the 'Hanselbuch\ 

*Rheinfels , rising at the back of the town , 377 ft. above the 
Rhine , is the most imposing ruin on the river. It was founded in 
1245 by Count Dietherlll. of Katzenelnbogen, a friend of theEmp. 
Frederick II., and a new Rhine-toll was established here. Ten years 
later a confederation of 26 Rhenish towns , dissatisfied with the 
newly imposed burden , attacked the castle , but after a siege of 15 
months were compelled to withdraw. In 1692 it was bravely and 
successfully defended by the Hessian General von Gorz against the 
French General Count Tallard with an army of 24,000 men. In 
1758 the castle was surprised and taken by the French , who gar- 
risoned it till 1763. Thirty years later it was basely deserted by 
the Hessian commandant, and, with its valuable stores, fell into the 
hands of the French revolutionary army , 2nd Nov. , 1794. Three 
years afterwards it was blown up and sold for the insignificant sum 
of 60 L The ruin now belongs to the king of Prussia. The interior 
contains little that is worthy of note ; view limited. The custodian 
is generally at or near the castle (fee 10 Sgr.). 

1. St. Goarshausen (Adler; Schiffchen ; Rhein. Hof) may be se- 
lected as head-quarters for excursions to the Swiss valley , Lurlei, 
Reichenberg , &c. The town is protected by an embankment from 
the inundations of the river. Ferry (small screw-steamer) to St. 
Goar at the upper end of the town (1 Sgr.). 

1. The castle of Neu- Katzenelnbogen, commonly called the Katz 
(cat) , which rises behind St. Goarshausen, was erected in 1393 by 
Count Johann of Katzenelnbogen , whose family became extinct in 
1470. It was then occupied by a Hessian garrison till 1794 , when 
it fell into the hands of the French , to whom it is indebted for its 
destruction. (Guide with keys from St. Goarshausen, 5 Sgr.) 

On the brink of the ravine at the back of the castle lies the village 
of Patersberg, l 1 ^ M. beyond which, 3 M. from St. Goarshausen, are the 
ruins of *Reichenberg, erected in 1280 by a Count of Katzenelnbogen, and 
afterwards,, during the Hessian dominion, the seat of the governor of the 
district. Since 1818 it has been a. ruin, but is in better preservation than 
most of the Rhenish castles. The ruin is at once curious and imposing. 
A portal with granite columns in the castle-yard is said to have been 
brought from the palace of Charlemagne at Ingelhcim. The interior ap- 



88 Route 16. 



LtRLEI. 



From Coblenz 



pears to belong chiefly to the Romanesque style , with occasional traces 
of Gothic. The spacious apartments of the ground-floor are in the best 
state of preservation. One of them resting on Romanesque columns and 
covered with pointed vaulting probably belonged to a chapel. The ruin 
is preserved from farther destruction by the present proprietor (guide 
5 Sgr.). The road to Reichenberg leads through the Haselbach Valley, im- 
mediately below St. Goarshausen, where a carriage may be procured for 
the excursion. The traveller may walk back by the (i 1 ^ M.) Offenthaler 
Hof ', situated on the hill to the S. of Reichenberg, and then proceed 
through the upper part of the Swiss Valley to the Lurlei. (Xo path de- 
scends the valley from this point. The narrow road which ascends the 
valley from St. Goarshausen unites with our path where the latter reach- 
es the opposite hill, at the point where the Lurlei path diverges.) 

The Schweizerthal , or 'Swiss Valley', is a picturesque ravine, extend- 
ing about 2 31. inland from the back of St. Goarshausen. Those who 
wish to visit the Lurlei from the Schweizerthal follow the cart-road in 
the A r alley for about l \-t M. (the 'Promenadenweg -1 not recommended) , and 
at a projecting rock surmounted by a pavilion ascend by a steep footpath, 
and part of the way by steps , to the 'Mannchen" (view of the Schweizer- 
thal). Then across the hill to the (25 min.) Hiihnerberg , a pavilion com- 
manding a *view of the basin of St. Goar. From this point follow the 
cart-road on the height in a straight direction , soon entering low wood ; 
after l \± hr. the footpath to the Lurlei (not easily recognised from this 
side) descends to the r. , and the rock itself is reached in ij 4 hr. more. 
A steep path (see below) descends from the Lurlei to the Rhine in 7 min. ; 
thence by the road to St. Goarshausen 1 M. (the whole excursion from 
St. Goarshausen to the Hiihnerberg , Lurlei , and back occupving about 
2 hrs.). 

Immediately above St. Goar, nearly in the middle of the stream, 
is the 'Bank', a sunken ledge of rock running out from the r. bank, 
causing a kind of whirlpool ( Gewirre) , destructive to rafts if not 
skilfully managed. The channel on the L. side is the safest for 
small boats. 

On the 1. rise the imposing rocks of the *Lurlei, 433 ft. above 
the Rhine. On the N. side of the precipice a steep path leads to 
the summit. Ascent 20 min. ; view limited. The well-known legend 
of the siren who had her dwelling on the rock , and , like the sirens 
of old, enticed sailors and fishermen to their destruction in the rapids 
at the foot of the pre :ipioe , has long been a theme for the poet and 
the painter. The famous echo is not audible in the steamer, and 
can only be successfully awakened by pedestrians. The Lurlei is 
penetrated by a railway tunnel (p. 164). 

To this rocky basin the salmon-fishery of St. Goar is principally 
confined. The cool , shady depths and sandy bottom of the river at 
this point appear peculiarly suited to the habits of the fish. They 
are captured in nets only. The epicure will learn with regret that 
the yield, formerly 8000 lbs. per annum, has dwindled to 1000 lbs. 
It is of course in great demand, and realises 3$. per pound and 
upwards. This is the narrowest and deepest (7Q ft.) part of the river. 

Opposite the Ross-Stein, a rocky point to the I., which the 
railway penetrates by a tunnel . a ridge of rocks , known as the 'Se- 
ven Virgins', is visible when the water is low. It is said that these 
rugged masses were once seven fair maidens , condemned by the 
river-god for their prudery to this metamorphosis. 



to Bingen. 



CAUB. 



16. Route. 89 



(r.) Oberwesel (*Goldener Pfropfenzieher , at the lower end of 
the town ; the sign-hoard, now in the coffee-room , was painted hy 
Schrodter, theDusseldorf artist; *Rheinischer Hof, on the river), the 
Rom. Vosavia, once a town of the empire, was made over hy Henry 
VII. to his hrother Archhishop Baldwin of Treves. To the S. of the 
town rises the conspicuous *Frauenkirche, or Church of Our Lady, 
a fine Gothic structure, erected at the beginning of the 15th cent. 
The rood-loft (lectorium) , which separates the choir from the nave, 
deserves particular inspection. The ancient wood-carvings of the 
high-altar , coeval with the foundation , and two pictures said to 
have been painted in 1504, are also interesting. The lower part of 
an altar-piece in the N. chapel represents the landing of the 11,000 
virgins (p. 30); on the N. wall is a series of small pictures repre- 
senting the End of the World and the Last Judgment. The N. 
chapel contains monuments of knights and counts of Schonburg. — 
The old gateway ('Eselsthurrn) near the church was formerly a 
town-gate. 

The Chapel on the town-wall , on the side next the Rhine com- 
memorates the alleged murder of the boy Werner by the Jews in 
1286. According to the legend, his body was flung into the river, 
and miraculously floated up the stream to Bacharach where it was 
canonised (p. 90). The Town Hall, in the mediaeval style, with red 
sandstone pinnacles, was erected in 1849. The handsome Ochsen- 
thurm, at the lower end of the town, formerly belonged to the forti- 
fications. 

Oberwesel is one of the most beautiful spots on the Rhine. The 
rocky ravines which here intersect the mountains are favourite sub- 
jects for the artist ; they also yield excellent wines, the most esteem- 
ed of which is that of the Engeholl valley. 

Above Oberwesel rise the picturesque ruins of (r.) Schonburg, 
cradle of a once mighty race , the birthplace (in 1615) of Count 
Frederick Hermann of Schonburg, better known as Marshal Schom- 
berg , who fought under the Prince of Orange , and in 1668 , when 
in the French service , compelled the Spaniards to acknowledge the 
House of Braganza. On the revocation of the Edict of Nantes , he 
was obliged to quit the French service , and under the Elector of 
Brandenburg became minister of state , and governor of Prussia ; he 
finally passed over to England with the Prince of Orange , and fell 
at the memorable battle of the Boyne in 1690. His remains are in- 
terred in Westminster Abbey. In the Thirty Years' War the castle 
fell into the hands of the Swedes, and in 1689 was demolished by 
the French. The family became extinct in 1713. 

The small town of (1.) Caub (*Grunewald; *Adler; Nassauer 
Hof) is important on account of its productive subterranean slate- 
quarries. 

The castle of Gutenfels rises picturesquely behind the town. 
Here the English Earl of Cornwall , elected emperor of Germany in 



90 Route 16, 



BACHARACH. 



From Coblenz 



1257, became enamoured of the beautiful Countess Beatrix of Fal- 
kenstein , whom he married on the death of his first wife in 1269. 
In 1804 the castle became the property of Nassau , in 1805 it was 
dismantled by order of Napoleon , and in 1807 finally abandoned. 
The schoolmaster at Caub keeps the keys. A more extensive view 
than that from the castle is obtained from the Adolphshdhe, 4 / 4 M. 
to the S. of Caub. 

Above Caub appears the *Pfalz, or Pfalzgrafenstein + rising in 
the middle of the Rhine, and in some respects resembling the castle 
of Chillon. It is a small hexagonal building, standing on a ridge of 
rock, erected by the Emp. Lewis the Bavarian about the begin- 
ning of the 13th cent, as a toll-house for exacting tribute from 
passing vessels. The entrance is on the E. side through a portcullis, 
several feet above the rock; the S. corner bears the Lion of the Pa- 
latinate. Intending visitors apply at the 'Receptur' at Caub (fee 5 
-m Sgr.)- 

In 1194 the Emp. Henry VI. wished to marry the daughter of Count 
Palatine Conrad to one of his friends, but the young princess had already 
gained the affections of Henry of Brunswick. The father dreading the 
emperor's wrath, would not consent to the alliance, but caused a tower to 
be built in the middle of the river below Bacharach , where he kept his 
daughter prisoner. Her mother , however , secretly aided the Prince of 
Brunswick in gaining admittance to the tower, where his union with the 
princess was privately solemnised. When the princess was about to give 
birth to a child , her mother disclosed the affair to her husband , who, 
finding his opposition no longer availing, capriciously passed a law that 
all future Countesses Palatine should [repair to the Castle to await their 
accouchements. Such is the ancient and improbable tradition connected 
with the Pfalz, whence it also derives its name. 

At this point, on New Year's night, 1814, a Prussian corps 
under York, and a division of Russian troops under Langeron, 
effected the passage of the Rhine. A monument on the 1. bank, a 
little higher up , commemorates the passage of the Rhine near this 
spot by Bliicher, 31st Dec, 1813. 

(r.) Bacharach (*H6tel Wasum, at the station , new, pension 
from 1 Thlr. 5 Sgr. ; Bliicherthal , in the town), with 1687 inhab., 
called Ara Bacchi in the middle ages , was early celebrated for its 
wine, and down to the 16th cent, was one of the greatest wine 
marts on the river. Pope Pius II. (iEneas Sylvius) caused a cask 
of the wine of Bacharach to be brought to Rome annually, and the 
town of Nuremberg obtained its freedom in return for a yearly tri- 
bute of 4 tuns to the Emp. Wenzel. 

On a slight eminence (path on the S. side of the church of St. 
Peter) stands the ruined * Church of St. Werner, erected about 1294 
in the most beautiful and elaborate Gothic style in the form of a 
trefoil, to commemorate the canonisation of the boy Werner (p. 89), 
who, according to tradition, was murdered by Jews. Behind it (10 
min. walk) rises the castle of Stahleck (see below). 

The Church of St. Peter, or Templars' Church , in the late Ro- 
manesque style, is remarkable for symmetry of proportion. A tower 



to Bingen. 



STAHLECK. 



16, Route. 91 



of the ancient House of the Templars still exists in the yard of the 
post-house. 

In the adjacent valley of Steeg is the ruined castle of Stahlberg. The 
valley is sometimes termed the '•BlilcherthaV , from having been the scene 
of a skirmish between Blucher and a body of French soldiers in 1814. 

From Bacharach by Stroma erg to Kr euznach. Pedestrians 
ascending the Rhine may vary their route agreeably by taking the follow- 
ing walk (6 — 7 hrs.) over the hills. From Bacharach to the Rheinboller 
Foundry 8, Stromberg 5^4, Kreuznach T 1 ^ M. The last stage being the least 
interesting , a carriage may be taken from Stromberg to Kreuznach 
(2^2 Thlr.). The route is as follows: from Bacharach through" the valley 
of Steeg to Steeg (1 M.). At the tower (»J 2 M.) with the small pond, 
the middle of the three paths, which cuts off the long windings of the 
high road, should be selected. At the last sharp bend of the road in the 
Steeger Thai (l 1 ^ M. from the tower) the footpath ascends to the r. and 
enters the wood \ the road is subsequently regained , and followed for a 
short way ; the footpath then re-enters the wood , and finally crosses the 
meadows to (3 l \v M.) Distelbach (thus far, a guide desirable , although not 
indispensable). Beyond the village the same direction (S.W.) is followed, 
and the meadows crossed to the (l 1 |-2 M.) Rheinboller Foundry (*Inn) , an 
extensive establishment picturesquely situated 1115 ft. above the sea-level. 
The road leads hence through the beautiful wooded ravine of the Giilden- 
bach. On the slope to the r. rises the modern chateau of Carlsburg. Far- 
ther on is the Sahler Hiitte , another extensive foundry. Immediately be- 
fore M.) Stromberg (*Fvstenburg ; Engl. Ho f; Post; carr. to Keuznach 
2^2 Thlr.) is reached, the ruined castle of G olden f els rises on the height 
to the r. ; beyond the village are the extensive ruins of the Fustenburg . 
Beyond Stromberg the scenery soon becomes uninteresting ; (2^4 M.) 
Schweppenhausen ; (2^4 M.) Windesheim. At the point (3 M.) where the 
road begins to descend into the Nahethal , termed the L Hungrige Wolf 
(714 ft.), l 1 ^ M. from Kreuznach (p. 110), a magnificent and extensive pro- 
spect is enjoyed. — If the high road through the Steeger Thai be fol- 
lowed instead of the above-mentioned footpath, the traveller first reaches 
the village of Rheinbollen, and the Foundry l 1 /^ M. farther (a route 
longer by 4^2 M.) \ or Rheinbollen may be reached by diligence from 
Bacharach (twice daily) in 2 hrs. (fare lO 1 ^ Sgr.). 

Above Bacharach rises the once strongly fortified castle of 
Stahleck, the cradle of the Counts Palatine, and their principal 
residence down to 1253. The French besieged and took the castle 
and town eight times in 1620 — 40, and finally destroyed the castle 
in 1680. The extensive ruins belong to the Dowager Queen of 
Prussia, a descendant of the Counts Palatine. View fine but 
limited. Nearly opposite the castle lies the village of Lorchhausen . 

On a rocky eminence on the r. rise the handsome ruins of 
Fiirstenberg, made over to the Palatinate in 1243 as a fief of Co- 
logne. In 1292 , when Adolph of Nassau was on his way to his 
coronation at Aix-la-Chapelle , the vassals of the robber-knight of 
the castle had the audacity to demand toll of the emperor, and on his 
refusal, fired into his vessel. In 1321 the castle was taken by the 
Emp. Lewis from his opponent Frederick, and presented to his con- 
sort Margaret of Holland. In 1632 it fell into the hands of the Swedes, 
and in 1689 was destroyed by the French. It is now the property 
of Princess Frederick of the Netherlands , sister of the King of 
Prussia. 

The brook which here falls into the Rhine was anciently the bound- 
ary between the dominions of the archbishops of Maycncc and Treves. 



92 Route 16. 



LORCH. 



From Coblenz 



Farther up the valley are the villages of Oberdiebach and Manubach, 
famous for their wine 

Opposite the Fiirstenburg , on the r. bank of the Wisper which 
here falls into the Rhine , stands the ruined castle of Nollingen, 
or Nollich, 581 ft. above the Rhine. The rugged cliff on its W. 
slope is called the 'Devil's Ladder , a legend attaching to which 
records that a knight of Lorch with the assistance of mountain 
sprites once scaled it on horseback, and thus gained the hand of his 
lady-love. 

1. The small town of Lorch (*Schwan , at the upper end , wine 
and cuisine good; Rhein. Hof ; *Krone), the Roman Laureacum (?), 
is mentioned in an old document as early as 832. The lofty and 
handsome Church of the 12th cent, possesses the finest bells in this 
district. The old carved wooden altar, a fine font of 1464, and sev- 
eral monuments of knightly families of the Rheingau , especially 
that of Joh. Hilchen, companion in arms of Sickingen, merit inspec- 
tion. The inscription on the latter records that Hilchen distinguished 
himself against the Turks, and as field-marshal in 1542 — 44 against 
the French. His house, decorated with sculpturing in front, erected 
in 1546, is the most conspicuous in the village. 

Through the Wisperthal to Schlangenbad (and Schwalbacli) , a beauti- 
ful walk of 19 M. from Lorch to the Kammerberger Miihle 6 , Laulen- 
muhle 2^4 , Geroldstein , Niedergladbach 3, Hansen 3, Schlangenbad (p. 
165) 3 M. , or from Geroldstein by Langenseifen to Schwalbach (p. 166) 
10i/ 2 M. 

In the valley of the Saner, which unites with the Wisper 3 j4 M. above 
Lorch, is the Sauerburg, 4 l |4 M. from Lorch or Caub , one of the strong- 
holds of Franz von Sickingen (p. 113 and 230), destroyed by the French in 
1689. In the neighbouring farmhouse the last direct descendant of the 
celebrated knight died in poverty in 1830. 

The long village of (r.) Niederheimbach, with the ruin of Hohn- 
eck, or Heimburg, recently restored , next comes in view. Travel- 
lers ascending the river and intending to visit Rheinstein (3 M.), 
Assmannshausen , and the Niederwald (comp. p. 95) are recom- 
mended to disembark here. Extensive retrospect as far as Bacharach. 

The valley of the Rhine now slightly contracts. On the r. rises 
the slender tower of *Sooneck, commanding the entrance of a 
ravine. The castle, built by Archbishop Willigis of Mayence 
about 1015, was dismantled by the Emp. Rudolph as a robbers' 
stronghold , and rebuilt in the 14th cent. The ruin now belongs 
to the Prussian Royal family, and has been entirely restored. 

(r.) Trechtlingshausen (Stern). On an eminence beyond the 
village rise the ruins of the Reichenstein, or Falkenburg, destroyed by 
the French in 1689. In 1251 this marauders' castle was dismantled 
by the Rhenish Confederation , but restored in 1261 by its owner, 
Philip von Hohenfels, who resumed his lawless calling. The 
Emp. Rudolph of Hapsburg afterwards besieged and dismantled it, 
and relentlessly consigned to the gallows the robbers whom he found 
in possession. At the foot of the hill is the entrance to the *Morgen- 
bachthal, which for a short distance M ) is 01ie of the most 



to Bingen. 



RHEINSTEIN. 



16. Route. 93 



romantic lateral valleys of the Rhine. On an eminence on the oppo- 
site bank is a mine of iron ore, the produce of which is conveyed to 
the Rhine by a kind of tramway. 

On the r. stands the venerable Clemenskirche , the origin of 
which is unknown , lately restored by the Princess Frederick of 
' Prussia. It is, however, on record that it was once visited by Emp. 
Maximilian I. 

A little above the church , on the same bank , rises the pictur- 
esque castle of *E.heinstein , 264 ft. above the Rhine. Its origin 
is unknown, but it is mentioned as early as 1279, and subsequent- 
ly to 1348 was frequently a residence of Archbishop Kuno von Fal- 
kenstein. Nothing is known of its history after this date. In 1825 
— 29 Prince Frederick of Prussia caused the castle to be rebuilt, and 
he was afterwards (d. 1863) interred in the chapel on the S. side. 
A visit to the castle hardly repays the ascent. The collection of 
ancient armour , &c. which it formerly contained is now almost 
entirely dispersed (fee 15 — 20 Sgr.). The view from the castle 
as well as from the Swiss House on the height towards the S. is 
limited. 

1. Assmannshausen (Anker; Krone), is celebrated for its red 
wine. At the mouth of a ravine below it the much esteemed Boden- 
thaler is produced. A warm spring (95°) here has recently been 
used for bathing purposes. Traces of Roman baths have been dis- 
covered in the vicinity. Excursion to the Niederwald see p. 95. 

Beyond Assmannshausen the steamboat reaches the Binger Loch, 
a rapid caused by the narrowness of the rocky channel , the widen- 
ing of which has been the work of ages , from the Roman period 
down to 1830 — 32 , when the last blasting operations took place. 
The ascent is still attended with difficulty in the case of heavily 
laden vessels , but in the descent the large rafts alone are exposed 
to danger, and require to be piloted with extreme caution. 

Above the rapids rises the tower of (1.) Ehrenfels, erected about 
1210 by Philipp von Bolanden , governor of the Rheingau, the fre- 
quent residence of the archbishops of Mayence in the 15th cent., 
much damaged by the Swedes in 1635 , and finally dismantled by 
the French in 1689. The steep slopes of the Rudesheimer Berg yield 
the excellent wine of that name , and terrace rises above terrace to 
secure the soil from falling. The entire hill is covered with walls 
and arches , the careful preservation of which conveys an idea of the 
value of the vines. According to tradition , Charlemagne observed 
from his palace at Ingelheim that the snow always melted first on 
the Rudesheimer Berg , and therefore caused vines to be brought 
from Orleans and planted herei 

Opposite the castle, on a quartz-rock in the middle of the Rhine, 
is situated the Mouse Tower, which derives its name from the well- 
known legend of the cruel Archbishop Hatto of Mayence. Having 
caused a number of poor people to be burned in a barn during a 



94 Route 16. 



BINGEN. 



famine, whom he compared to mice bent on devouring the corn, he 
was immediately attacked by mice , which tormented him day and 
night. He then sought refuge on this island, but was followed by 
his persecutors, and soon devoured alive. The probability, however, 
is that the real name was Mauth-Thurm, or Tower of Customs, and 
that it was erected in the middle ages for levying tolls. The ruins 
have been converted into a kind of watch-tower, for making signals 
to steamers , which in descending the river are here required to 
slacken speed when other vessels are coming up the stream. 

The valley of the Rhine now suddenly expands, and the district 
of the Rheingau, which was once in all probability a lake, is enter- 
ed. Below (r.) Bingen the Nahe unites with the Rhine. Bridges 
over the Nahe, and stations of the Rhenish and Rhine - Nahe lines 
at Bingerbruck, see p. 108, The steamers do not touch at Binger- 
briick. 

Bingen. Hotel Victoria, D. 1 fl. 12 kr. \ White Hokse , R. 1 fl., 
L. 18 kr. , B. 30 kr. , D. 1 fl. 12 kr. , A. 18 kr. ; Bellevue ; Englischek 
Hof ; Deutsches Hals : Rheinthal ; *Hartmann, see below. — Cafe Soherr, 
with restaurant in the market-place. 

Bingen (pop. 6500) was known to the Romans. Two Roman 
military roads led hence to Cologne and Treves , and their junction 
was protected by a fort which probably stood on the site of the pre- 
sent castle of *Klopp , destroyed by the French in 1689. Entrance 
to the castle at the back of the White Horse Hotel; the gardens . to 
w hich strangers are admitted ( fee 18 kr.), command a pleasing pro- 
spect; best survey from the tower. 

The Gothic Pfarrkirche^ dating from the 15th cent., contains an 
ancient font. The Town Hall was restored in 1863 in the mediaeval 
style. 

The old Bridge over the Nahe was constructed by Archbishop 
Willigis on the foundations of the old Roman bridge ; it was after- 
wards partially destroyed, and again restored. The Nahe here form< 
the boundary between Hessen-Darmstadt and Prussia. The traveller 
proceeding to the Bingerbruck station (p. 108) may visit the 
*Rondell on his way. by following the Hunnsriicken road to the 1. 
past the first houses at the top of the hill hr. from the station). 

The finest points in the neighbourhood are the Rochitscapelle (E.) 
and the Scharlachkopf (S.E.), each 7-2 lir - trom tne town. The 
road to the former leaves the street at the back of the Englischer 
Hof, and after 100 yds. ascends to the 1., past the cemetery : hr.) 
■Hnttl Hartmann, on the slope of the hill. 

The * Rochitscapelle , 5 min. farther, a chapel on the E. brow 
oi the Rochusberg, which descends abruptly to the Rhine , stands 
341 ft. above the river , and commands a noble prospect. It was 
founded in 1666 at the time of the plague, destroyed in 1795, and 
restored in 1814. The interior contains a representation of St. Roch 
leaving his dismantled palace, painted in commemoration of the 




I forest 
1 rifies 



OriomalaTX&alim* des Gross. Bess. Generalquartiermc 



NIEDERWALD. 



77. Route. 95 



restoration of the chapel , and presented by Goethe and others. At 
the festival of St. Roch (first Sunday after 16th Aug.) , charmingly 
described by Goethe , thousands of persons congregate here and ce- 
lebrate certain solemnities , to which open - air dances and the 
ringing of glasses form a lively sequel. The chapel is generally 
open on summer afternoons. Near the E. entrance is a stone pulpit 
for open-air sermons. 

From the Hotel Hartmann a good road leads along the N.W. 
brow of the hill to the *Scharlachkopf, 1 M. to the S.W. View 
very fine , entirely different from that obtained from the chapel ; 
it embraces the valley of the Nahe and the populous Palatinate, 
sprinkled with villages , and bounded by the Donnersberg. The 
Rhine is only visible from the influx of the Nahe to the Mouse 
Tower. The S. slopes of the hill yield the excellent Scharlach- 
berg wine. 

17. The Niederwald. 

Tariffs at Riidesheim and Assmannshausen. Donley with guide 
from Riideshemi to the Temple on the Niederwald (or from Assmanns- 
hausen to the Jagdschloss) 14 Sgr. ; to all the points of view, the Schloss 
and Assmannshausen (or vice versa from Assmannshausen to Riidesheim) 

24 Sgr. Guide alone at half the above charges. Horse with guide 
3 — 6 Sgr. more. Two-horse carr. to the Niederwald and Schloss 2 2 |a , in- 
cluding Assmannshausen 3 1 |3 ; same excursion, including Johannisberg 4 2 |3 
Thlr. — Boat from Riidesheim to Rheinstein, waiting 2 hrs. at the castle, 
and returning to Assmannshausen, 1 Thlr. 10 Sgr. $ to Assmannshausen alone 

25 Sgr. \ the charges are for as large a party as the boat will contain. — 
Ferry from Riidesheim to Bingen 1 pers. 5, 2 pers. 6, 3 or more pers. 
2 Sgr. each} Assmannshausen to Rheinstein 10 Sgr. for a party. Steam- 
ferry between Riidesheim and Bingerbriick , 2 or 1 Sgr. ; for the trip be- 
tween Assmannshausen and Bingerbriick there is no fixed fare ^ a bargain 
must therefore be made. 

Boatmen's Tariff at Bingen. From Bingen to Assmannshausen 1 — 6 
pers. 1 fl. 10 kr., Rheinstein 1 fl. 30 kr., Rheinstein and Assmannshausen 
1 fl. 48 kr., each additional pers. 6 kr. ; return fare one-half more. The 
boatmen are provided with badges $ two must always be in each boat-, 
want of respect or attempts to overcharge are punishable. 

Plan. Assmannshausen (p. 93), the best starting-point, may either be 
reached by railway (R. 28), or by small boat from Bingen. In the latter 
case the Rheinstein may be visited by the way, the boatmen waiting while 
the traveller visits the castle. From Assmannshausen on foot over the 
Niederwald to Riidesheim in 2 hrs. (guide unnecessary). Riders are advis- 
ed to take their donkeys or horses only as far as the Schloss and there 
dismiss them, as the descent is easy. [From Bingen to Rheinstein on foot 
(ferry at the church) about 3 M.] 

The * Niederwald (1083 ft.), a wooded hill, clothed on its S. 
slopes with vineyards, rising from the Rhine at the point where the 
river quits the Rheingau and suddenly turns towards the N. , vies 
with the Drachenfels as a point of attraction to excursionists , and 
commands a most extensive prospect in the direction of Mayence. 

The ascent is usually made from Assmannshausen , after a visit 
has been paid to Rheinstein (p. 93). The excursion is pleasantest 
in this direction , the ascent being more gradual and shady than 



96 Route 17. NIEDERWALD. 



that from Rudesheim , while the views become more beautiful and 
striking as the traveller advances. At a small shrine, y 4 M. from 
Assmannshausen, the new bridle-path diverges to the r. from the 
cart-road (which remains in the valley) , and ascends in windings 
through underwood. In 1/2 hr. the traveller reaches the Jagdschloss 
{Inn, good wine, R. 15 Sgr., pension Thlr.), a shooting-lodge, 
which with the entire Niederwald is the private property of the 
Duke of Nassau. — The cart-road in the ravine , the vine-clad 
slopes of which yield the celebrated red wine of Assmannshausen, 
ascends gradually to (I 1 /? M.) Aulhausen , a village inhabited by 
potters (near it the suppressed nunnery of Marienhausen , now a 
farm) , turns to the r. at the church , and reaches the Jagdschloss 
in 20 min. more. 

At the Jagdschloss the traveller engages a boy (2 l /2 Sgr.), to 
open the Zauberhohle and Rossel. The Zauberhdhle ('magic cave'), 
Y2 to the S.W. of the Schloss, is a dark passage , at the end of 
which a semicircular chamber with three apertures commands views, 
through clearings in the wood, of the Clemenscapelle , Falkenburg, 
and Rheinstein. Five min. farther is the * Rossel (738 ft. above the 
river) , an artificial ruin on the highest point of the Niederwald, 
commanding a beautiful prospect: to the W. the valley oftheNahe, 
with the Donnersberg and Soonwald in the background ; to the r. 
the wooded heights of the Hunnsriick. Far below, the Rhine rushes 
through the Bingerloch, past the ruin of Ehrenfels and the Mouse 
Tower. On the opposite bank lies Bingen with the castle of Klopp, 
sheltered by the Rochusberg. In the valley of the Nahe are numerous 
villages, and Kreuznach in the distance. Below the mouth of the 
Nahe rises Rheinstein, with the Swiss house; farther down stands 
the Clemenskirche, beyond it the Falkenburg. From the Rossel to 
Rudesheim iy 4 hr. 

From the Rossel a path leads S.E. to the (12 min.) Adolphs- 
hdhe , exactly opposite the influx of the Nahe, and the (10 min.) 
Hermitage ; the path to the r. now leads in 10 min. more to the 
* Temple (639 ft. above the Rhine) on the brow of the hill , com- 
manding a magnificent view of the entire Rheingau , bounded on 
the S.E. by the Taunus Mts. , on the S. by the Melibocus, and on 
the W. by the distant Donnersberg. 

From this point the road proceeds to the 1. , reaching a finger- 
post (5 min.), whence the path to the 1. leads to Rudesheim in l fa 
hr. The steep, stony path to the r., descending through vineyards, 
is somewhat shorter than the other, but is closed before and during 
the vintage (end of Aug. till Nov.). (From Rudesheim to the Temple 
45 min. ; thence to the Jagdschloss 40 min. ; down to Assmanns- 
hausen 25 min., or by Aulhausen 40 min.) 



97 



18. From Bingen to Mayence and Frankfort. 

Railway on the Left Bank of the Rhine (see p. 108) to Mayence in 
3j 4 hr. 

Railway on the Right Bank of the Rhine, see R. 28. If time permit, 
it is preferable to ascend by 

Steamboat in 2^2 (down in 1 3 | 4 ) hrs. to Mayence ; piers at Bingen, Rii- 
desheim, Eltville, and Biebrich; small boat stations Geisenheim, Oestrich, 
and Walluf. 

Pedestrians will be repaid by a walk through the Rheingau, the garden 
of the Rhine, a district replete with interest. From Eltville proceed inland 
to (1 1 |2 M.) Kiedrich , and past the lunatic asylum of Eichberg to (3 M.) 
Eberbach; cross the Bos, passing the Steinberg, to (2 M.) Hallgarten; walk 
by Schloss Vollraths to (3 M.) Johannisberg , and return thence to (HJ2 M.) 
the Rhine at Geisenheim. The path leads chiefly through shadeless vine- 
yards , but the Gothic chapel at Kiedrich , the Abbey of Eberbach , and 
the beautiful views from the Bos and Schloss Johannisberg will amply 
reward the traveller. 

Kudesheim (256 ft.) (* Darmstddter Hof, R. 20, B. 10, D. 20, 
L. 4 Sgr. ; * Rheinstein ; Hotel Krass Bellevue ; Massmann ; Bail. 
Restaur. ; Rheinhalle, opposite the station ; steam-ferry to Binger- 
briick, p. 108), a pleasant little town in an open and sunny situation, 
with 3197 inhab. , is a suitable spot for a stay of some duration. 
The celebrated wine of the place is yielded by the vineyards 
behind the town , termed the Hinterhaus , and those of the Berg 
extending below the town to Ehrenfels. At the lower end of the 
town, near the station, rises the * Brbmserburg, or Niederburg, the 
property of Count Ingelheim , a massive rectangular stone tower, 
108 ft. long , 84 ft. broad , and 64 ft. high, said to have been once 
a Roman fort. The three vaulted storeys belong to the 13th cent, 
Down to the 14th cent, it was a residence of the Archbishops of 
Mayence ; subsequently it became the property of the knights of 
Riidesheim, and was occupied by the Bromser family, whose 
ancestral residence near the castle , still well preserved , is now 
employed as a poor-house and asylum for children. 

One of these knights who had distinguished himself by destroying a 
dragon in the Holy Land, and had escaped out of the hands of the Sara- 
cens , vowed that , if he ever returned to Riidesheim , he would dedicate 
his only daughter Gisela to the Church. The latter , during her father's 
absence, had formed an attachment to a young knight of a neighbouring 
castle , and heard with dismay her father's fatal vow. The old crusader 
was inexorable, and Gisela in a fit of despair threw herself from the tower, 
into the Rhine. According to popular belief her pale form still hovers 
about the ruined tower, and her lamentations are heard mingling with the 
moaning of the wind. 

The Oberburg, or Boosenburg, an old tower behind the Bromser- 
burg, which for 300 years belonged to the Counts Boos , is now the 
property of a wine-merchant. 

On the opposite bank of the Rhine rises the Rochusberg, crowned 
by the conspicuous Rochuscapelle , at the foot of which is the 
Villa Landy ; farther on are Kempten and (rail, stat.) Gaulsheim. 

The small town of Geisenheim (* Stadt Frankfurt, * Ger- 
mania, both with gardens; *Schlitz), which is mentioned in history 
as early as the 8th cent., contains a handsome red-sandstone church 

B^pekek's Rhine. 5th Edit. 7 



98 Route 18. 



JOHANNISBERG. 



Prom Bin gen 



of the 15th cent., with modern portal and open Gothic towers. The 
gardens and orchards of the Consul Lade are well worthy of a visit. 
Near the station is the Pomological Institution, recently founded by 
governnient. which should be inspected by those who are interested 
in the cultivation of fruit. The residence of Herr Zwierlein contains 
a good collection of stainedglass. The wine of this district, especi- 
ally the Rothenberger. is highly esteemed. 

On the hill behind Geisenheim , near Eibingen , rises the old nunnery 
of that name, founded in 1148, secularised in 1802 , and again consecrated 
in 1835. Farther to the N.E. are the remnants of a monastery founded 
in 1390. About 3 ,4 M. farther X. (2 1 |4 M. from Rudesheiin) is the monastery 
of Marienthal, picturesquely situated among woods. 

* Schloss Johannisberg, picturesquely situated on a vine -clad 
eminence , 341 ft. above the Rhine , and visible from a great dis- 
tance, was erected in 1716 by the Abbot of Fulda, on the site of 
an old Benedictine convent founded by Archbishop Ruthard in 
1106. On the suppression of the Abbey of Fulda in 1802, the castle 
became the property of the Prince of Orange , in 1807 it was pre- 
sented by Napoleon to Marshal Kellermann , and in 1816 conferred 
by the Emp. of Austria on the late Prince Metternich as an imperial 
nef. The vineyards, in area about 40 acres, yielding an average in- 
come of 6000£., are most carefully cultivated, and take the lead among 
the vineyards of the Rhine : although of late years there has been 
a great rivalry between the wines of Johannisberg and Steinberg, 
the latter occasionally realising the higher price. The *view from 
the balcony of the castle (fee 24 kr. ; good Johannisberger at the 
restaurant, 5 fl. per bottle) embraces the course of the Rhine from 
Mayence to Bingen. The Chapel, founded in the 12th cent. , and 
subsequently restored, contains a monument to the eminent histori- 
an and tutor to the Prince, Nic. Vogt. who died a senator of Frank- 
fort . but was interred here by his own wish. A fewmin. walk from 
the Schloss is situated the village of Johannisberg (Mehrer) . where 
a hydropathic and pine-cone bath-establishment is situated (* Res- 
taurant, good wine). From this point to Geisenheim, or Winkel, 
by Johannisberg im Grund £• Klein) is a walk of l 1 ^ M. Near the 
latter village, at the foot of the Schloss, lies the l Klause\ a remnant 
of a nunnery founded by Rucholf, the brother-in-law of Archbishop 
Ruthard (see above). Printing-presses of a superior description are 
manufactured at the machine-faGtory of Klein, Forst, and Bohn at 
Johannisberg im Grund. 

Mittelheim , with the borough of ^Vinkel (Rheingauer Hof), 
forms one long street. At the W. extremity is situated a residence 
of Herr Brentano-Birken stock of Frankfort , mentioned in Bettina 
von Arninis -Correspondence of a Child', and containing reminis- 
cences of Goethe. 

At Oestrich (* Steinheimer ; Petri] Iffldnd) the inhabitants of 
the Rheingau formerly swore fealty to the newly elected Archbishops 
of Mayence, who came here for the purpose , but were obliged first 



to May e nee. 



ELTVILLE. 



18. Route. 99 



to confirm the privileges of the people. The village with its project- 
ing crane , and Johannisberg in the background, forms a pictu- 
resque tableau. 

On the slope behind Oestrich lies Hallgarten, in the midst of vine- 
yards ; near it is the well-preserved castle of Vollraths, erected in 1362 by 
a member of the Greiffenklau family, in whose possession it continued till 
recently. Above Hallgarten rises the Hallgarter Zange (590 ft.), a beautiful 
point of view. 

Before reaching Hattenheim (Laroche) , the road passes Schloss 
Reicharishausen, in a small park (1 M. from Oestrich), once a depot 
for the wines of Eberbach, now the seat of Count Schonborn. 

Between Hattenheim and Erbach lie the islands of Sandau, 
connected with the 1. bank, and Westfdlische Au, or Rheinau. To 
the 1. of the road between these villages is the Markbrunnen 
('boundary-well') , near which are the vineyards yielding Marco- 
brunner, one of the most highly prized Rhenish wines. 

r. Erbach (Engel- Wallfisch), mentioned as early as 980, is con- 
cealed from the steamboat-passenger by the island of Rheinau , U/2 
M. in length. At the W. end of the village is the chateau of Rein- 
hartshausen, the property of the Princess Marianne of the Nether- 
lands, containing a collection of pictures and sculptures ; adm. Mond., 
Wed., and Frid. 10—5 o'clock (30 kr.). 

A broad path leads inland from Erbach to the once celebrated and 
richly endowed Cistercian Abbey of Eberbach , founded by St. Bernhard 
of Clairvaux in 1131 , and situated in one of those sequestered valleys 
which this order always selected for their monasteries. Hence the Latin 
saying : 

Bernardus valles, montes Benedictus amabat, 
Oppida Franciscus, celebres Ignatius urbes. 
The Abbey, secularised in 1803, was afterwards converted into a House 
of Correction. It was erected at various periods from the 12th to the 
15th cent. The Romanesque convent-church, consecrated in 1186, recently 
restored, contains a number of * Monuments , most of them of Abbots of 
the 12th— 18th cent. The Gothic monument which encloses the tombs of 
Gerlach , Archbishop of Mayence (d. 1371) , and Adolph II. , Count of 
Nassau (d. 1474) , particularly deserves inspection. The Refectory of the 
13th cent, is now occupied by wine-presses, and the cellars below formerly 
contained the 'Cabinet 1 wines of the Duke of Nassau, the most choice product 
of the vineyards of the Rheingau. The neighbouring Steinberg vine- 
yard , 60 acres in area , carefully cultivated by the industrious monks of 
Eberbach ever since the end of the 12th cent., is celebrated. The *Bos 
(obsolete word = hill), an eminence close to the monastery, commands a 
magnificent prospect, comprising the Steinberg vineyard. To the E. of 
the Eberbach valley, in the distance, is the extensive Lunatic Asylum of 
Eichberg. 

At (r.) Eltville (* Hotel Reisenbach; Rheingauer Hof\ Engel ; 
Rheinbahn Hotel) , formerly the capital of the Rheingau , the Ger- 
man king Giinther of Schwarzburg resigned his dignity in 1349, 
when hard pressed by his opponent Charles IV. In the 14th and 
15th cent. Eltville was a residence of the Archbishops of Mayence, 
to which they often resorted to escape from civic broils , and here 
the archiepiscopal mint was established. Here, too, one of the lirst 
printing-presses was erected, in 14(55, fifty years after the invention 
of the art, and before the death of Gutenberg. The handsome watch- 

7* 



J 00 Route IS, 



BIEBRICH. 



From Bin gen 



tower, with the arms of the founder , and the adjoining castle-wall 
are the sole remnants of a castle erected in 1330 by Baldwin. Arch- 
bishop of Treves, at that time High-steward of Mayence; the church- 
tower belongs to the same date. A number of country -residences 
give a handsome appearance to the place. Omnibus to Schlangen- 
bad and Schwalbach, see p. 165. 

About I 1 o 31. to the X.W. , concealed amidst vine-clad Mils, lies the 
large village of Kiedrich (*Burg Scharfenstein ; Krone), a great resort of 
pilgrims. ^The Gothic church of St. Valentine, and the chapel of *St. 
Michael, erected in 1440 in the later Gothic style, restored in 1858, merit 
a visit. Near Kiedrich is the Graferiberg, one of the most celebrated vine- 
yards of the Rheingau: it is crowned by the castle of Scharfenstein,. which 
was erected by the Archbishops of Mayence at the close of the 12th cent., 
dismantled by the Swedes in 1632, and finally by the French in 1682. — 
*Walk through the Rheingau, see p. 97. 

Beyond Eltville several villas , situated in carefully kept vine- 
yards, are passed; the opposite island is tastefully laid out. The 
church-tower of Rauenthal is visible on the hills in the background. 
The * Bubenhciuser Hohe (p. 1651. one of the finest points in the 
Rheingau. may be reached from Eltville in 3/ 4 hr. 

At(r.) Niederwalluf ( * Schwan ; Gartenfeld • Cratz, at the station), 
mentioned as early as 770, the rich wine - district of the Rheingau 
terminates. The entire district was anciently surrounded by an im- 
penetrable barrier, formed by a dense belt of trees. 50 yds. in width, 
so interwoven as to form a gigantic hedge, termed the l Gebuck\ 

Opposite, on the 1. bank of the Rhine, is the chapel of Buden- 
heim. whence the *Lenaberg (refreshments at the forester's) com- 
manding a fine view of the Rheingau , may be ascended in l/g hr. 
The road from Niederwalluf to Schlangenbad and Schwalbach unites 
at Neudorf with the high-road from Eltville (p. 165). 

r. Schierstein (Drei Kronen) stands in the midst of a vast or- 
chard. About li/oM. inland is the ruin of Frauenstein with the village 
(Weisse Ross) of that name; on the hill. 5 min. to the N.W. of the 
latter stands the Nitrnberger Hof (refreshm.) with extensive view. 

r. Biebrich (Rheinischer Hof, with garden on the Rhine; Euro- 
pean Hotel; Krone, with garden. English Church Service in the 
ducal chapel), which with Mosbach forms one town, was a summer 
residence of the Duke of Nassau down to 1866. At the upper end 
of the town are extensive barracks, and at the lower the ducal Pa- 
lace, erected in 1706 in the Renaissance style. The statues which 
adorn the centre were much injured in 1793, during the siege of 
Mayence, by the French batteries on the island of Petersau . while 
the Palace was occupied by Prussian troops. The well-kept garden 
and park, nearly 1 M. in length, abound with beautiful walks. The 
extensive hot-houses were transferred to Frankfort in 1809 fcomp. 
p. 155). The small castle in the palace-garden, built in 1807 in the 
mediaeval style on the site of an ancient residence of Louis the 
Pious, contains monuments of Counts of Katzenelnbogen . brought 
from Eberbach (p. 99). The station of the Right Rhenish Railway 




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16 700 (LNatra- 



to Mayence. 



MAYENCE. 



18. Route. 10 1 



(p. 164) is near the N.E. entrance to the gardens. Branch -line to 
stat. Curve (on the Taunus Railway), see p. 156; omnibus to Wies- 
baden in connection with the steamboats (24 kr. with luggage). 

Beyond Biebrich the steamboat passes between two islands , the 
Jngelheimer Au on the r. and the Petersau on the 1. ; on the latter, 
at his summer-residence, the Emp. Louis the Pious, son and suc- 
cessor of Charlemagne, expired in 840. His body was conveyed to 
Metz and interred there. 

The steamboat-pier at Mayence is at the lower end of the town, 
below the bridge of boats, and at a considerable distance from the 
railway station , which is situated on the Rhine at the upper end. 
Conveyances, etc., see below. 

Mayence. Hotels. On the Rhine: *Rhenish Hotel (PI. a), from R. 1 fl., 
L. 18, B. 36, D. lij 2 fl. , A. 24 kr. ; *H6tel de Hollande (PI. b) ; ^English 
Hotel (PL c). — Hotel de Cologne (PL d) ; Hotel Ziegler; Stadt 
Coblenz ; these three near the railway station. — In the town : *Karpfen, 
opposite the post-office; Landsberg (PL k) , Lohrgasse; Pfalzer Hof, 
Stadt Creuznach, both unpretending. — At Castel : *Anker, unpretending. 

Restaurants. *Falk and Rothes Bans in the Theater-Platz ; Bohland, 
Emerans-Str. — Beer. Cafe" Frangais, opposite the bridge; Cafe de Paris, 
Theater-Platz; Cafe" Nevf, on the island; Heil. Geist, near the Rhein-Str., 
with a hall in the mediaeval style; Mayer and Moriiz, both in the Rhein- 
Str., near the station; * Anker, at Castel; Breweries at the Kastrich and 
at Weissenau, l 1 ^ M. above Mainz, the latter commanding a fine view. — 
Confectioners. Volk, Theater-Platz; Schuckan, at the back of the Theatre. 

Baths in the Rhine, hot and cold, near the station- Swimming-Bath 
outside the Neuthor. 

Theatre in winter only, five times weekly. 

Railway Stations. Trains for Cologne (p. 107), Ludwigshafen (R. 41), 
Frankfort (direct), and Darmstadt (p. 169) start from the Mayence sta- 
tion on the Rhine, at the upper end of the town; for Frankfort (Taunus- 
Railway), Wiesbaden, and RUdesheim from Castel (p. 156). — Steam ferry- 
boat, omnibus, and carriages from station to station see below. 

Steamboats. The steamboats for the Lower Rhine have their landing- 
place below the railway bridge , at Mayence as well as at Castel , where 
they correspond with the Taunus Railway. 

Telegraph Office in the Alte Universitats-Str. , behind the theatre ; 
closed at night. 

Cabs at Mayence. One-horse for i| 4 hr. , 1 — 2 pers. 15, 3 — 4 pers. 20, 
by the hr. 54 kr. or 1 fl. 12 kr. ; to the Neue Anlage , Cemetery , and 
Gartenfeld 24 or 30 kr. , to Zahlbach 30 or 36 kr. — Two-horse carriages 
about one-third more. For waiting, or for returning with the same per- 
sons, half the above charges. Box 6 kr. , smaller articles of luggage free. 
To Castel, inch bridge-toll 1 pers. 26, 2 pers. 28, 3 pers. 36,^4 pers. 38 
kr. — At night (in summer 10 to 5. 30, in winter 9 to 7 o'clock), double 
fares. — At Castel: 1 pers. 30, 2 pers. 36, 3 pers. 42, 4 pers. 50 kr. ; each 
box 6 kr. 

Porterage. From the pier or station to the hotels on the Rhine : Trunk 
under 50 lbs. 6, over 50 lbs. 9, smaller packages 3, or several together 6 
kr. To Castel, see p. 156. 

English Church in the Clara - Strasse. 

Chief Attractions. Where time is limited , visit the Cathedral and 
its monuments (p. 102) , the Gutenberg monument (p. 104) , Eigelstein 
(p. 104), and the collections in the Palace (p. 105); spend the evening in 
the new Anlage (p. 107), Wiesbaden (p. 156), or the Park at Biebrich 
(p. 100). 

Mayence, or Mentz, German Mainz (270 ft.), a strongly 
fortified town with 47,731 inhab. (7000 Prot. , 3000 Jews) and a 



102 Bi uU I v 



MAYENCE, 



Cathedral. 



garrison of 8000 soldiers, is pleasantly situated on the I. bank of the 
Rhine, opposite and below the influx of the Main, and is connected 
with the small town of Castel on the opposite bank by a bridge of 
boats about HOC yds. in length. The old part of the town is con- 
fined and badly built, but a number of handsome buildings and 
new streets have been erected of late . and the appearance of the 
town much improved. 

Mayence is historically one of the most interesting of the Rhenish 
towns. Its important strategic situation has in all ages attracted attention. 
The town and it- most ancient name ( Magontiacum , or Moguntiacum) are 
of Celtic origin. In B. C. 14 Augustus sent his son-in-law Drusus to the 
Rhine as commander-in-chief, and to him the fortress of Mayence owes 
its foundation. His camp occupied the entire table-land between Mayence 
and Zahlbach. as is proved by the abundant Roman remains still seen near 
the town. It was first garrisoned by the 14th Legion, which bore the 
honourable names of gemina , moriia, and victrix . and afterwards by the 
22nd. The more effectually to secure the passage of the Rhine, a second 
CastiUum was soon afterwards constructed by Drusus on the opposite bank, 
whence the present Castel derives its origin and name. 

After the introduction of Christianity Mayence soon became the seat 
of the first German bishopric. In 751 Pope Zacharias confirmed St. Boni- 
face (or Winfried. d. 755). the apostle of Central Germany, in his archie- 
piscopal office. This prelate was the son of an English wheel-wright, 
and so little ashamed of his parentage that he assumed a pair of wheels 
his armorial bearings, which are retained to this day in the arms of 
the city. In 1J54 a citizen of Mayence founded the League of the Rhenish 
Towns, and his native town became the great centre of this powerful 
association. Such was the commercial prosperity of the town at that 
period that it was termed the 'Golden Mainz\ Two centuries later, 
however, it lost most of its extensive privileges in consequence of a 
violent attack made upon it by Archbishop Adolph of Nassau in 1462. on 
which occasion 500 citizens were killed and the most influential banished. 
Thenceforth the once independent city was ruled over by the archbishops. 
It formerly boasted of a university, founded in 1477, but suppressed by 
the French. 

On 2'2nd Oct., 1792. the French republicans under Custine entered the 
town almost without a blow, but it was retaken the following year by 
the Prussians. In 1797 it was ceded to France by the Peace of Campo 
Formio . and became the capital of the Department of Mont Tonnerre. 
In 1814 it was assigned to the Grand Duchy of Hessen. 

The Fortifications consist of a triple line: 1st. The principal rampart, 
comprising 14 bastions and a citadel, constructed in its present form about 
the middle of the 17th cent., and enclosing the Eigelstein (p. 104); 2nd. A 
series of advanced forts, connected by glacis: 3rd. Several advanced in- 
trenchments, the chief of which are the Weissenauer Lager, the Harten- 
berg , and the Binger Thurm. All the works have been considerably 
strengthened since the events of 1S66. 

The ^Cathedral (PL 12; open in the morning till 11. 30, and 
in the afternoon 4 — 6 o'clock; ascent of the tower, see p. 1031, 
begun in 978 nndei Archbishop WUligis, was partially destroyed 
by fire six times in the 12th . loth . 14th . and 15th centuries, but 
on each of these occasions re -erected on a grander scale than 
before. After having suffered seriously under the French regime, 
it was finally restored at the beginning of the present century. This 
church is of great value in the history of architecture. In its present 
form it consists of nave and aisles with chapels, an E. and a W. 
Choir, and W. transept. The two handsome domes, each flanked 



Cathedral. 



MAYENCE. 



18. Route. 103 



with two towers, present an imposing appearance. The E. round 
towers belong to the earliest part of the structure, the E. gable and 
choir to the latter half of the 12th cent. , while the W. choir dates 
from 1239, and the cloisters from 1412. The stone roofs of the tow- 
ers are modern. The two brazen gates at the entrance from the 
market, which formerly belonged to the Liebfrauenkirche , bear in- 
scriptions engraved in 1135, recording the various privileges grant- 
ed to the town by Archbishop Adalbert I. , out of gratitude for his 
liberation from the hands of Henry V. (p. 235), and enumerating 
his grievances and the cause of his imprisonment. 

The Interior, the vaulting of which is borne by 56 pillars, is 
richly decorated with gilding and painting and (between the windows of 
the nave) with frescoes by Veit. The old white-wash has been removed 
from the walls, the red-sandstone of which is now exposed to view. The 
church contains numerous monuments and tombstones , from the 13th to 
the 19th cent., and is in this respect richer than any of the other German 
cathedrals. The most interesting are the following, beginning with the 
N. Transept, to the r. of the N. entrance (attendance of the sexton un- 
necessary) : Canon von Breidenbach, 1497; von Gablentz, 1572. — N. Aisle: 
On the 1st pillar, Albert of Brandenburg, Elector of Mainz, and Arch- 
bishop of Magdeburg (statue admirably executed , and a faithful likeness), 
1545 ; in a chapel opposite , the monument of the family of Brendel von 
Homburg , a well-executed Adoration of the Cross in stone , 1563 on the 
4th pillar, Adalbert of Saxony , administrator of the Archbishopric , 1484 ; 
on the 6th pillar, inside, opposite the pulpit, Elector Dietrich of Isenburg, 
1482; on the altar at the side, St. Boniface (p. 102), a relief of 1357; on 
the 10th pillar, next the W. choir, Elector Peter v. Aspelt, 1320, coloured, 
leaning with his right hand on Henry VII. and with his left on Lewis 
the Bavarian, the two emperors crowned by him; adjoining him, King 
vTohn of Bohemia. — On the N. (1.) side of the W. choir, Canon v. Buch- 
holz, in stone, 1609. Font cast in bronze in 1328. — 8. Aisle: On the 4th 
pillar, Elector Damian Hartard v. d. Leien , 1678; on the 5th pillar the 
pulpit, in stone, end of 15th cent.; on the 7th pillar, inside, ^Elector 
Berthold v. Henneberg , 1504 , the finest monument in the cathedral , said 
to have been executed at Rome. 

On the 1. side of the entrance to the cloisters a stone slab in the wall 
bears an inscription to the memory of Fastrada , third wife of Charle- 
magne, who died at Frankfort in 794, and was interred in the church of 
St. Alban's (destroyed in 1552). The slab was placed here at a subsequent 
period. 

The 8. Transept contains more modern monuments; a fine head of 
Saturn surmounts that of Canon v. Breidenbach-Burresheim. The well- 
executed monument of Archbishop Conrad II. v. Weinsberg dates from 
1396. 

The Memorie , or Chapter-house, erected in 1248, adjoining the 
cathedral, now forms an entrance-hall to the Cloisters, constructed in 
1412, and recently restored. The latter, which are the finest in the Rhine- 
land, served as a place of exercise for the clergy and for the observance 
of the monastic rule, c post coenam stabis , sen, passus mille meabis\ The 
Memorie and Cloisters contain several fine monuments. On the S. wall is 
*Schwanthaler''s Monument to Frauenlob, a female figure decorating a coffin 
with a wreath , erected by the ladies of Mayence in 1842 to Count Hein- 
rich von Meissen (d. 1318), surnained Frauenlob (women's praise), 'the 
pious minstrel of the Holy Virgin, and of female virtue". Beyond it , on 
the E. wall, is a remarkable ^Sculpture , representing the Last Judgment. 
Near it is an older tombstone of Frauenlob, erected in 1783, a copy of 
the original of 1318, which had been accidentally destroyed. 

The Tower (324 ft.), approached from the S. transept, commands 
a view similar to that from the Eigelstein , but less extensive than 



104 Route 18. 



MAYENCE. 



Eigelstein. 



from the Stephansthurm (see below). The ascent as far as the gallery 
is easy (sacristan 18 kr.). 

Near the cathedral is the Theater- Platz , or Gutenberg's Platz, 
so named by Napoleon in 1804. It is adorned with a * Statue of 
Gutenberg (d. 1468) (PI. 24), designed by Thorvaldsen , executed 
at Paris, and erected by subscriptions from all parts of Europe. 
The famous inventor of printing was born at Mayence about the 
end of the 14th cent., in the house at the corner of the Emmerans- 
Str. and the Pfandhausgasse. 

The Theatre (PI. 29) erected in 1833, contains a Hall of In- 
dustry , a kind of bazaar for local manufactures, in theE. wing. The 
furniture and leather goods of Mayence enjoy a high reputation. 

The Fruchthalle (PI. 8), or Fruit - market , to the W. of the 
theatre, one of the largest buildings of the kind in Germany , can 
be converted into a concert or ball-room by the addition of a movea- 
ble ceiling and floor , and is capable of containing 7 — 8000 per- 
sons. 

Returning to the theatre and following the broad Ludwigs- 
Strasse towards the W. , the traveller reaches the Schiller - Platz, 
planted with lime-trees, bounded on the S. by the Military Go- 
vernment Buildings , and on the W. by the Barracks and the Mili- 
tary Casino, and embellished with a bronze Statue of Schiller erec- 
ted in 1862. The pillar of the fountain is said to have been 
brought from the palace of Charlemagne at Ingelheim. The Schiller- 
Platz is said to occupy the site of the Roman Forum Gentile , or 
market-place. 

A broad street leads from the Schiller -Platz to the Kastrich 
(Castra), an eminence with a terrace commanding an extensive view. 
Since the explosion of a powder magazine here in 1857 a new and 
well built quarter of the town has sprung up. 

On an eminence in the vicinity rises the handsome Gothic 
Church of St. Stephen (PI. 19), erected in 1318, and restored in 
1857, after the explosion mentioned above. It consists of nave and 
aisles of nearly equal height, a form rarely seen in Rhenish churches. 
The octagonal tower (214 ft.), base 99 ft. above the Rhine, com- 
mands the finest view in the town. Visitors ring at the N. door of 
the tower , from which the watchman stationed on it generally 
throws down the key. The church contains the bones and sacer- 
dotal vestments of Archbishop Willigis , several monuments in 
stone, and finely executed altars, pulpit, and organ loft in the 
Gothic style. Over the 1. side altar a Virgin and Child blessing- 
Mainz , by Veit. The Cloisters are remarkable for their taste- 
fully constructed ceilings and windows. Adjoining the church is 
the nunnery Zum Guten Hirten, founded in 1853. 

The other churches of Mayence are uninteresting. 

Within the Citadel (PI. C, D, 2), which occupies the site of the 
Roman ca strum, is the * Eigelstein (PI. 6 ), a monument erected 



Palace. 



MAYENCE. 



18. Route. 105 



by the 2nd and 14th Legions in honour of Drusus , who was killed 
by a fall from his horse ( Q excercitus honorarium tumulum excitaviV. 
Sueton. Claud. 1). The name is sometimes said to be derived from 
the aquila , or eagle , which formerly surmounted the tower, but is 
more probably due to the form of the monument , which resembles 
a gland (Ger. Eicliel.). The external masonry has long since disap- 
peared, and the height and form of the monument have undergone 
many changes. It is now a grey, circular mass of stone, 42 ft. high, 
furnished in 1689 with a spiral staircase in the interior, and com- 
manding a good survey of the town and environs from the summit. 
Visitors apply for admission at the gate of the citadel, and are then 
accompanied by a soldier (fee 12 kr.). 

About 3 / 4 M. from the neighbouring Gauthor (PI. C, 1), near 
the village of Zahlbach, are the remains of a Roman * Aqueduct, of 
which 62 pillars, some of them 30 ft. high , still exist. By this 
channel a supply of water for the use of the Roman castle was con- 
ducted to a reservoir on the site of the present Entenpfuhl (' duck- 
pond'). The spring, termed the Kbnigs - Born , which the aqueduct 
connected with the Castrum , is situated at Finthen (Fontanae) on 
the road to Bingen, 5 M. from Mayence. 

To the N.W. of the Schiller-Platz , mentioned at p. 104 , runs 
the Schiller-Strasse, at the upper end of which, on the r. , are 
the Government Buildings (PI. 26). To the E. of this point stretches 
the broad, straight, and regularly built Grosse Bleiche, leading to the 
Rhine, the longest street in Mayence, about Y3 M. in length. On 
the N. side of this street are the Residence of the Commandant (PI. 
36) and the old Library. In the small square to the 1. is the Neu- 
brunnen, a pillar with symbolic reliefs and river gods below, erected 
in the last cent. The building with the gilt horse, farther down the 
street, formerly the electoral stables, is now a cavalry-barrack. 

On the r. at the E. end of the street, where it enters the large 
planted Schloss-Platz, is the Church of St. Peter (PI. 18), erected 
in 1751, formerly the court-church of the electors. 

On the N. side of the Schloss-Platz rises the vast Military Hos- 
pital (PI. H, 3, 4). 

The old Electoral Palace (PI. 28), at the N.E. point of the town, 
erected in 1627 — 1678, was the residence of the Electors till 1792, 
and during the French war served as a hay - magazine. It is now 
occupied by several collections. That of Roman monuments is the 
richest in Germany. These and the picture-gallery are open on 
Wed. 2 — 5, and Sund. 9 — 1. At other times cards of adm. (18 kr.) 
are procured at the 'Octroi' at the S. side of the building. 

*Roman , Mediaeval, and Modem Monuments on the ground - 
floor. Models of Thorvaldsen"s statue of Gutenberg (p. 104) and ScholTs 
statue of Schiller (p. 104). Reliefs of the Seven Electors, Emp. Henry VII., 
and St. Martin, dating from 1312, from the old merchants'' hall. Roman 
altars, votive-tablets, sarcophagi, and tombstones with sculptures and 
inscriptions. An obelisk of Roman mosaic constructed in 1837. Relics 



106 Route 18. 



MAYENCE, 



from the Franconian tombs at Selzen, described by Lindenschniitt. The 
same apartments also contain the collection of the Rhenish Historical and 
Antiquarian Society. — The Roman-Germanic Museum contains 2000 
casts of relics from the Roman-Germanic period to the time of Charle- 
magne (some of which may be purchased). The Collection of Coins 
consists of 3000 Roman specimens , about 1800 of Mayence from Charle- 
magne to the fall of the Electorate, and 1500 of modern times. — The 
Library (on the second floor) possesses 100,000 vols., among which are 
old impressions by Gutenberg, Fust, and Schoffer, dating from 1459—1462. 
— Opposite the library are the Physical Cabinet and the Technical 
Models ; among the latter is one of a bridge over the Rhine projected by 
Napoleon I. The Academy Hall, erected by Elector Karl v. Erthal in 
1775 . i> adorned with portraits of the founder and of the Grand Duke 
Lewis II. The adjacent apartment contains portraits of distinguished elec- 
tors of Mayence. — The Na tural History Collection (on the third 
floor), especially the zoological portion, is valuable and well arranged. 

The ^Picture Gallery (on the second floor) belongs to the town 
and the Art-Union-, the best paintings were presented by Napoleon I. 
1st Room: 1. David anointed king by Samuel (French School)-, 6. Jac. 
van Artois, Foundation of the Chartreuse, a large landscape, the figure of 
St. Bruno by Le Sueur; 7, S, 10, and 11. Four periods of the day, after 
Claude Lorrain; 30, 32. Mignard, Poetry, History, Painting, and the God 
of Time. — 2nd R.: 39. Micreveldt, Don Ruy Gomez, Spanish secretary of 
state; 50. Hoffmann, Kitchen of a prince. — 3rd R. : F. Bol , Abraham 
on Mt. Moriah. — 4th R.: 124. Lor. di Credi, Madonna; 126, 127, 128. 
Gaud. Ferrari, St. Jerome in a landscape, Adoration of the Infant, the 
young Tobias (three admirable pictures) ; 132. Titian, Bacchanalian. — 
5 th R.: 147. Guiclo Rent , Rape of Europa ■ ; 150. Filial love, Venetian 
school ; 155. Sehidone , Mary's visit to Elisabeth. In the centre of the 
saloon a celebrated astronomical clock. — In the Corner Room, water- 
colours, drawings, chalks, etc. — 6 th R. : 181. Velasquez , Head of a car- 
dinal; 182. Murillo, Duck-stealer. — 7 th R.: Jordaens, Christ among the 
doctors; Lod. Caracci , Glory of the crowned Virgin. — 8 th R. (Old 
German school): 204. Durer, Adam and Eve: 207 — 215. Griinewald, The 
nine beatitudes of Mary; 240. Holbein, Old-German woman. — 9th R. 
(modern works): 1. Heuss , Thorwaldsen in his studio; 8. Seeger , Land- 
scape; 11. Stieler , Tutelary Saint; 13. Dietz , Death of Pappenheim at 
Liitzen; 17. Flilggen, Players; 18. Schmitt , Italian women praying; 23. 
Weller, Sick child; 30. Schotel , Stormy sea; 31. Jonas, Cow-stable; 32. 
33. Kempf, Fish Tower at Mayence. 

Opposite the Electoral Palace, to the S. , is the Palace of the 
Grand Duke (PI. 5), formerly a Lodge of the Teutonic Order] con- 
nected with it is the Arsenal (PL 41) , containing collections of old 
armour and modern engines of warfare , uninteresting to those who 
have visited more important collections. Cards of adm. gratis at the 
Artillery-office, at the corner of the Grosse Bleiche and Bauhof-Str. 

The * Cemetery, once the burial-place of theKoman legions, and 
of the ancient Christian church (St. Aureus), on an eminence near 
Zahlbach (p. 105), merits a visit on account of its situation, as 
well as its monuments. 

Below the Bridge of Boats (p. 102), when the river is low. may 
be seen remnants of the pillars of a wooden bridge constructed by 
Charlemagne in 793—803 , where a legion -stone (now in the Mu- 
seum) of the '2'2nd Legion, by which Mayence was garrisoned under 
Trajan, was found in 1818. Most of the seventeen Water Mills 
are anchored to these ancient foundations. Castel , see pp. 102. 
156: inns, p, 101 ; railway to Wiesbaden, p. 156 , 



INGELHEIM. 



19. Route. 107 



The *Neue Anlage (Restaurant) , or public promenade, on a 
slight eminence near the Neuthor , occupies the site of the elec- 
toral chateau of Favorite, where on 25th July , 1792, the well- 
known manifesto of the Duke of Brunswick to the French nation 
was framed by a large assembly of princes. Fine view from the 
grounds , embracing the town , the river, and the Taunus Mts. A 
w alk across the railway-bridge is also recommended , but the best 
survey is obtained from the towers (fee 12 kr.). 

The direct route from Mayence to Frankfort is by the Hessian 
Ludwig Railway, crossing the Rhine above the town. Near stat. 
Bischoffsheim the line diverges from the Darmstadt line. 

Frankfort, see p. 147. 

19. From Mayence to Cologne. 

Railway on the Left Bank. 

Comp. Maps, pp., 82, 54, 32. 

Express in 4 hrs. , ordinary trains in 5 l \i — 5 3 | 4 hrS. (fares 4 Thlr. 25, 
3 Thlr. 15, 2 Thlr. 10 Sgr.). Return - tickets are available for three 
days 5 1st or 2nd class passengers may break the journey , provided 
they get their tickets stamped on leaving the carriage. Return-tickets 
taken on either side of the river are moreover available for the journey 
both going and returning on the opposite bank , and the traveller (1st or 
2nd class) may sometimes find it convenient to break his journey and 
cross and recross the river repeatedly. The following are the correspond- 
ing stations : above Coblenz Bingerbrilck and Rudesheim only, then Coblenz 
and Ehrenbreitstein (crossing the railway bridge 9, 7, 4 Sgr. additional), 
Neuwied on the left and Neuwied on the right bank, Andernach and Leutes- 
dorf, Niederbreisig and Honningen , Sinzig and Linz , Remagen and Unkel, 
Rolandseck and Honnef, Mehlem and Konigswinler , Godesberg and Ober- 
cassel , Bonn and Beuel. Wherever the route is changed the traveller on 
alighting must show his ticket at the booking-office. — 50 lbs. of luggage 
free. — View of the Rhine to the r. only. 

The train traverses the fortifications and passes opposite to Bieb- 
rich (p. 100). Scenery between Mayence andBingen uninteresting. 

At Heidesheim (* Friedrich) , as well as at Weissenau above 
Mayence, there are numerous quarries of shell-limestone (consisting 
of myriads of litorinelli) , which is largely exported to the Lower 
Rhine and Holland , and supplies most of the limekilns on the 
banks of the river. 

At Nieder-Ingelheim (Post; Lowe-, Hirsch) once stood a cele- 
brated palace of Charlemagne , described by ancient writers as an 
edifice of great magnificence. Mosaics, sculptures, and other works 
of art, were sent in 784 by Pope Hadrian I. from Ravenna to adorn 
it. The granite columns of the fountain at the castle of Heidel- 
berg (p. 179) once belonged to this palace , and other relics are to 
be seen at Mayence, the castle of Rcichenberg, Eberbach , etc. 
At Ingelheim the convocation of the bishops of Mayence, Co- 
logne, and Worms, who dethroned Henry IV., assembled on Dec. 
30th, 1105. 

An obelisk on the S, side of the village marks the road begun 



108 Route 19. ANDERNACH. 



From Mayence 



by Charlemagne , and completed by Napoleon. From this point a 
fine prospect of the entire Rheingau is obtained. The red wines of 
Ingelheim and Heidesheini (see above) enjoy a high reputation. 

On the opposite (r.) bank rises Johannisberg (p. 98). The train 
skirts the Rochusberg and stops at 

Bingen (p. 94), where the finest scenery of the Rhine begins 
(conrp. R. 16). The Nahe is now crossed below the old stone bridge, 
and Bingerbriick {* RuppertsbergJ reached. Opposite to it is the 
Mouse Tower (p. 93). The station of the Rhine-Nahe line (p. 94) 
adjoins that of the Rhenish. 

From Bacharach to Oberwesel, see pp. 90, 89. Oberwesel, de- 
lightfully situated, is next reached ; station near the Church. Two 
tunnels, then a glimpse of the Lurlei (p. 88) on the r. bank. An- 
other tunnel near the 'Bank', then 

St. G-oar (p. 86), beyond which the base of the ruin of Rheinfels 
is skirted. On the opposite bank , above Welmich, rises the Maus 
(p. 86); farther down, Liebensiein and Sterrenberg . Stat. Boppard 
is at the back of thetown. Beyond Boppard Osterspay and the pictu- 
resque chateau of Liebeneck are seen on the r. bank. The train next 
passes Brey, opposite Braubach and the Marksburg (p. 83), and 
Rhense 1 beyond which r. is situated the Kbnigsstuhl (p. 82). Stat. 
Capellen is at the foot of Stolzenfels , opposite the castle of Lahneck 
and Oberlahnstein (railway to Ems and Limburg, see R. 25). — Op- 
posite the island of Oberwerth the train quits the Rhine, skirts Fort 
Constanti7ie, and intersects the fortifications of 

Coblenz, see R. 15. From the station little is seen of the town. 
As the train crosses the Moselle a view is obtained of Ehrenbreit- 
stein to the r., rising above the stone bridge. At the foot of the 
fortified Petersberg (1.) is the monument of Marceau (p. 78). A plea- 
sing view is next obtained to the r. of Neuwted , the chateau of 
Monrepos being a conspicuous object in the distance ; above Weissen- 
thurm (1.) rises the monument of General Hoche (p. 62) and the 
ancient boundary tower. The station of 

Neuwied (p. 60) is 4 / 2 M. from the town on the opposite bank. 
(Right Rhenish line , seep. 54; steam-ferry ^ Sgr.}. The train 
crosses the Nette, passes the Netterhof (p. 62), and stops at 

Andernach (p. 60), i / 2 M. from the town; the church , the an- 
cient tower and walls are conspicuous. The Lunatic Asylum (1.) 
was once the Augustine nunnery of St. Thomas. Beyond Andernach 
the train skirts the river and commands a beautiful view in both 
directions; farther on, it passes the Krahnenberg , where the remains 
of a Roman villa were discovered, and intersects the lava -stream 
of the Fornicher Kopf (p 59); the castle of Namedy is visible. Op- 
posite stat. Brold (Brohlthal, etc., see R. 14) is the church oiRhein- 
brohl; the train then skirts the base of Rheineck and passes stat. 
Nieder-Breisig, opposite (r.) the castle of Arenfels , where the river 
is quitted. 



to Cologne. 



GODESBERG. 



19. Route 109 



Sinzig (Deutsches Haus), the Roman Sentiacum (?), a very ancient 
town, surrounded by high walls, with 1944inhab., is IVoM. fr° m tne 
river. The ruins of the Franconian palace , afterwards an Imperial 
residence , which stood here, and from which decrees of Pepin , the 
Emp. Henry III., and others were issued, have been converted into 
a Gothic villa. The Helenenberg . an eminence to the 1. of the line 
and S. of the town, derives its name from a tradition that the em- 
press Helena founded a chapel on it. The * Church of Sinzig , a 
line edifice in the best transition style , the round predominating, 
with square turrets at the sides of the choir and an octagonal tower 
rising over the centre, was consecrated in 1220. The ^Holy VoigV, 
a natural mummy found in the churchyard 200 years ago , is exhi- 
bited in one of the chapels. The choir contains a fine winged picture on 
gold ground by a Dutch master (John Foeten, 1480), restored in 1855. 

Remagen (and Apollinariskirche, see pp. 56, 57) is one of the 
stations (Sinzig the other) for the Ahr Yalley (R. 13). Here the 
train re-approaches the river; beautiful retrospect. Farther on, the 
line traverses the scene of the landslip of the Birgeler Kopf, where 
(and at Rolandseck) the peculiar stratification of the rocks is exposed 
by the cuttings. Beyond Ob er winter the train reaches 

Rolandseck (Rail. Restaurant - magnificent view, see p. 55), a 
favourite resort. — Mehlem , the station for Kbnigswinter on the r. 
bank, is */ 4 M. from the Rhine; ferry to Konigswinter 5 min. 

Godesberg (* Blinzler • *Adler), a village with 2300 inhab., situ- 
ated at the point where the valley of the Rhine begins to expand, 
is a favourite summer resort, where wealthy merchants of Cologne, 
Elberfeld, etc. have erected a number of handsome villas, surround- 
ed by pleasant gardens. The Protestant church was erected by a' 
wealthy merchant of Crefeld in 1857. The Hydropathic Establish- 
ment of Prof. Finkelnburg is much frequented. The Draischbrunnen 
(Merzenich's Inn and Baths) , a weak alkaline chalybeate spring, 
was known to the Romans, as is proved by a votive-tablet to iEscu- 
lapius, found in the vicinity, and now preserved in the museum at 
Bonn. On an eminence (282 ft.), 1 / 2 M. to the N. of the station, 
stands the handsome tower (100 ft.) of the Castle of Godesberg. 
At the base of the hill a Roman colony is said formerly to have 
flourished, and at the summit a fort, founded by the Emp. Julian, 
a temple, and afterwards a Christian church. The castle was erected 
in the 13th and following cent, by the archbishops of Cologne. In 
1583 the Bavarians, who fought in support of Archbishop Ernest of 
Bavaria against the deposed Gebhard of Waldburg, who had become 
a Protestant , stormed and blew up the castle ; the tower alone 
escaped destruction. Fine view from the summit. The ruin belongs 
to the Queen of Prussia. 

On the r. , as Bonn is approached , stands the Hochkreuz % an 
obelisk 30 ft. high, erected in 1332—49 to a knight, who fell iti a 



110 Route '20. 



KREUZNACH. 



duel at this spot, and entirely restored in 1854. The train crosses 
the Poppelsdorf avenue, and reaches 

Bonn, see p. 43. As the train proceeds, the Cemetery and cha- 
pel are seen on the r.. and the Kreuzberg on the 1. Near stat. Sech- 
tem the vineyards terminate. The chateau of Falkenlust. connected 
with Bruhl by an avenue . formerly an Electoral hunting-lodge , is 
now private property. 

Briihl (Pavilion, Belvedere] * Barton). The train stops opposite 
the royal Palace of Briihl, a handsome building, erected by Elector 
Clement Augustus in 1728. During the French period Marshal Da- 
voust resided in it for several years, and it was afterwards assigned 
to the 4th cohort of the French Legion of Honour. For many years 
it was abandoned to decay, but was restored in 1842. The halls con- 
tain old portraits of Rhenish electors and other princes. The garden 
and park are favourite places of resort. 

After passing stat. Kalscheuren, the train skirts the W. side of 
the city, passes the goods* station and the (1.) Stadt- Garten . tra- 
verses the fortifications, and enters 

Cologne, see R. 3. 

20. From Bingerbriick to Kreuznach, Saarbriicken, 
and Metz. 

Comp. Mop. p. 12 S. 

U a i 1 w a y to Neunkirchen in 4 hrs., to Saarbriicken in 3 ( ; 4 hr. more; thence 
to Metz 3 3 ^ hrs. : fares to Saarbriicken 4 TLlr. 33f 4 , 2 Thlr. 25 3 1 4 , 1 Thlr. 
26 Sgr.: to Metz' 6 Thlr. lli| 2 , 4 Thlr. IS 1 ^ Sgr. — Steam ferry' between 
Binge rbr tick and Riidesheim 2 or 1 Sgr. 

The finest points on this route are between Kreuznach and Norheim % 
and the environs of Oberslein. The structure of the line is most remark- 
able between Fischbach and B i rice nj 'eld , where there are 10 tunnels and 
20 bridges. The rocks consist chiefly of porphyry and dark red rnelaphyr, 
many of them very precipitous and grotesquely shaped. The valley of 
the Saar is also very picturesque. 

The line begins at Bingerbriick (p. 94j . on the 1. bank of the 
Nahe, skirts the Hunnsriicken mountains . traverses vineyards and 
a fertile district, passes the old tower of Trutzbingen , erected in 
1494 by a prefect of Kreuznach. and several small stations, the most 
important of which is Langenlonsheim (Weisses Ross). 

Kreuznach. The station is r 2 M. from the town, and 1 M. from 
the Curhaus. Fiacre (with two horses) 1\2 Sgr. for one, 2 1 | 2 Sgr. for each 
additional person. In summer most of the trains also stop at the Halte- 
stelle. a small station, 1 j2 M. from the Curhaus. 

Hotels. PfalzerHof, next the post-office, D. 22^2 Sgr.: Adler; 
both in the town. — ^Berliner Hof , near the Bade-Insel. Bath-houses 
and hotels on and near the Bade-Insel; *Curhaus, Englischer Hof, 
Kauzenberg, *Obaniehhof, *Hof von Holland, Europaischer Hof, 
ib-iJ.L Royal, Hotel de France, and many other hotels and lodging 
houses. 

Restaurants. Bruck, near the Curhaus, with a large garden where 
concerts are frequently given; Macher, on the opposite bank. 

Carriages to the' following places and back with 4 hrs. stay : 
Munster am Stein, one horse l 2 j3, two-horse 2^2 Thlr., Rheingrafenstein 



KREUZNACH. 



20. Route. 1 1 1 



and Miinster am Stein 2 or 3, Ebernburg 2 or 3 , Altenbaumburg 2 or 3, 
Rothenfels 2 1 |3 or 3, Dissibodenberg 2^2 or 4, Stromberg 2^2 or 3 1 |2, Rliein- 
boller Hutte 5, Schloss Dhaun 5 Thlr. Bridge and road tolls included. 
Driver's fee additional. 

Donkeys at the Curhaus. To the following places and back, with halt 
of l \2 day: Miinster am Stein 1, Rheingrafenstein 1, Ebernburg 1, Rothen- 
fels 1 Thlr. To the Gans, Rheingrafenstein, Ebernburg, and back to Kreuz- 
nach, about l 1 ^ Thlr. — This beautiful round takes about 4 hrs. on foot. 
See pp. 112, 113. 

Nahe Wines. The best are produced on the Scharlachberg and 
Kauzenberg, and at Norheim, Monzingen , Ebernburg, Miinster am Stein, 
Winzenheim, and Bosenheim. 

English Church Service during the season. 

Kreuznach (12,874 inhab., y 3 Rom. Cath.), which from the 13th 
to the 15th cent, was the capital of the County of Sponheim , then 
belonged to the Palatinate, and since 1814 has been Prussian , lies 
on the Nahe, about 10 M. from the Rhine. The river separates the 
Altstadt on the r. bank from the Neustadt on the 1., and above the 
town forms the Bade-Insel , or Bath Island. A picturesque stone 
bridge, on which several houses are built, crosses the lower part of 
the island, and unites the three different parts of the town. The 
Church on the island, near the bridge, was erected in 1768 to re- 
place an earlier edifice which was destroyed by the French in 1689. 
The ruins of the Gothic choir of the latter, dating from 1333, have 
been fitted up as an English Chapel. Adjoining the church is the 
marble statue of Dr. Prieger (d. 1863), by whom the baths were 
first brought into notice, by Cauer. 

Kreuznach has lately become a watering - place of considerable 
repute, and is visited by upwards of 6000 patients annually. The 
Salt Baths, which are particularly beneficial incases of scrofula and 
cutaneous diseases , are situated on and near the Bade - Insel, 
where a new and attractive quarter of the town has sprung up. 
The principal street, flanked with hotels, lodging-houses, and 
gardens , leads from the church in a straight direction to the Cur- 
haus , a bath - establishment with cafe and pleasant grounds , the 
rendezvous of patients and visitors. Many of the former drink 
the waters of the Elisabeth- Quelle , a spring containing bromine and 
iodine, and rising from the porphyry rock at the S. end of the is- 
land. The agate wares of Oberstein (p. 115) are among the most 
attractive of the various objects offered for sale here. 

Opposite the Kurhaus an iron bridge crosses the narrower arm 
of the Nahe and connects the island with another new quarter, con- 
sisting of bath and lodging-houses , which has recently sprung up 
on the r. bank. The road in a straight direction leads to the Halte- 
stelle, mentioned above, Y2 M. from the Curhaus. Near this station 
(on the 1.) is the studio of the talented sculptors the brothers 
Cauer, to which strangers are readily admitted. (Pretty statuettes 
in imitation ivory, consisting of plaster saturated with stearic acid, 
may be purchased here.) 

On the N.W. side of the town, on the 1. bank of the Nahe, rises 



112 Route 20. 



RHEINGRAFENSTEIN. 



From Bingen 



the Schlossberg , a hill laid out as private pleasure-grounds. The 
vineyards on its S. slopes yield excellent wine. Shady walks ascend 
the hill from the old bridge over the Nahe (entrance from the lane 
at the "back of the fountain, fee to gate-keeper). The summit, 
crowned by the ruined castle of Kauzenberg , the ancient seat of the 
Sponheim family . destroyed by the French in 1689 , commands a 
fine view of the valley from the Rheingrafenstein to Bingen. Alion 
hewn in stone . brought here from Dhaun (p. 115) . commemorates 
the gallant conduct of Michel Mort , a butcher of Kreuznach . who 
sacrificed his life in a battle against Archbishop Werner ofMayence 
in 1279. to save his Prince . Johann von Sponheim. The traveller 
may now walk along the top of the hill and descend to the ferry- 
above the bath-island. 

In the valley of the Nahe, about 1 M. above Kreuznach. are 
situated the saline springs and salt works (with bath-house) of 
Carlshatte and Theodorshalle (Hotel Rees ; Foreith; R. in both 
3 — 5 Thlr. per week. Refreshments at the foresters house in the 
wood). The Gradirhauser in which the salt water is partially eva- 
porated are worthy of inspection. The practical value of the process 
consists in the fact that the worthless ingredients of the water are 
deposited on the twigs, while almost the whole of the salt finds its 
way to the reservoirs at the bottom. 

At Monster am Stein (railway-station, see p. 114). S 1 /*^- from 
Kreuznach . there are also extensive salt-works and saline baths 
(87° Fahr.). Good accommodation at the springs , or in the village 
(^Qurhaus; Hotel Low. Victoria, at the station). 

The * Eheingrafenstein (803 ft.). a picturesque cliff of por- 
phyry, here rises 432 ft. almost perpendicularly from the Xahe. 
The river should be crossed by the ferry near the saline springs (on 
the 1. a ^restaurant) , opposite which a path leads to the top (line 
view). The boldly situated ruined castle, built in the lith cent., once 
the residence of the -Rheingrafen (Rhenish counts), was blown up 
by the French in 1789. The new chateau, farm-buildings, vine- 
yards, etc. are the property of the Prince of Solms-Braunfels. 

The *Gans (1102 ft.), an indented ridge of porphyry. 3 / 4 M. to 
the N.E. of the Rheingrafenstein, commands a still more extensive 
view, embracing the Nahethal as far as Bingen . a portion of the 
Rheingau . the Rochuscapelle . Johannisberg . and the Rhine: far 
below are the Rheingrafenstein and Ebernburg , in the distance to 
the 1. the Donnersberg ; in the valley Minister am Stein, farther up 
Norheim. and on the opposite bank the barren cliffs of Rothenfels. 

From Kreuznach to the Gans, Rlieingrafenstein, and Minister am Stein a 
beautiful walk of 2 1 , ! 2 hrs., a route hardly to be mistaken. Following the 
road in a straight direction from the 'Haltestelle 1 , and passing a rock 
cellar, the traveller reaches the conspicuous 'Tempelchen 1 in l \z hr., 
about 100 paces beyond which he diverges by a path through the wood 
to the r. , leading to the hr.) Rheingrafensteiner Hot. Several foot- 
paths ascend hence to the Gans. The route from the latter to the Ehein- 
grafenstein is by a field -road towards the S. provided with a direc- 



to Metz, 



EBERNBURG. 



20. Route. 113 



tion-post, and leading through the wood to the ruin (p. 112), to which 
steps ascend. The descent to the Nahe (Restaurant and ferry, see above) 
is somewhat steep and stony. To the 1., about halfway down a finger-post 
indicates the way to the Altenbaumburg (see below). 

Opposite the Rheingrafenstein , to the W. , rises the ruined 
*Ebernburg, once the stronghold of Franz von Sickingen (d. 1523, 
see p. 230), and at that time often an asylum for outlaws and 
fugitives. Under his roof several of the early Reformers found 
shelter, and Ulrich von Hutten here composed his letters to 
Charles V., to the German nobility, and the German nation. The 
castle was fortified by the French in 1689 , but in consequence of 
the Peace of Ryswyk in 1698 it was again dismantled. Out of the 
ruins rises a quaint , pinnacled building , fitted up as an inn , and 
embellished with portraits of Sickingen and his wife , Ulrich von 
Hutten, and others. Weapons, bullets, etc. , found in the old well 
(300 ft. deep) , and several old sculptures are preserved in the 
castle-yard. The prospect is fine , especially of the valley of the 
Alsenz, with the ruins of the Altenbaumburg in the background. 

The view from the * Rothenf els , a barren red porphyry cliff 
rising precipitously about 550 ft. above the valley, surpasses those 
from the Gans and Ebernburg, as it embraces the valley of the Nahe 
as far as the Lemberg , and the Alsenzthal as far as the Moschel- 
landsberg. The summit is reached in 1 hi*, by a steep footpath 
ascending through wood to the r. a few paces beyond the new 
bridge over the Nahe near the Carlshalle (about half-way between 
Kreuznach and Miinster). Carriages and donkeys, see p. 110. An- 
other footpath ascends from Miinster am Stein in 3 / 4 hr. 

A charming excursion from Miinster am Stein is through the Hutten- 
thal, a valley on the opposite bank of the Nahe (ferry, already mention- 
ed), then across arable land , and finally through beautiful woods , to the 
(l 1 ^ hr.) ^Altenbaumburg- (^Restaurant) , an extensive ruined castle de- 
stroyed by the French in 1669, the ancestral seat of the ancient 'Raugrafen' 1 , 
and formerly termed the Boyneburg, or Croneburg . The visitor may then 
descend to the village of Altenbamberg (p. 114) , at the foot of the castle, 
and return by railway or on foot through the Alsenzthal to (2^4 M.) 
Miinster am Stein. — *Schloss Montfort may be reached from Miinster, by 
the Ebernburg and Bingert in 2 hrs. The extensive castle (refreshments 
at the Montforter Hof) , once a robbers 1 stronghold , was destroyed in the 
15th cent. Turning to the r. from Bingert , the traveller may ascend to the 
summit of the Lemberg (1312 ft.), which rises precipitously from the Nahe 
(reached from Miinster direct in 1 3 |4 hr.) , and descend thence by a rugged 
path in 1 hr. to stat. BocJcelheim (p. 114). 

The finest of the more distant excursions from Kreuznach are 
to the D is sib odenb erg (p. 114), Schloss Dhaun (p. 115), and Oberstein 
(p. 115), all of which are easily reached with the aid of the railway 
(carriages, see p. 110). — From Kreuznach to Bacharach by Strom- 
berg , see p. 91. 

An Excursion to the Donner sbe r g may be made from Kreuznach 
in one day. Railway to Rockenhausen , see p. 114. Thence ascend by the 
road to the E. to the village of Marie nt 'ha I. The handsome Gothic church, 
now restored, contains some good monuments of Counts of Falkenstein, es- 
pecially one with seven children of the family , who died in 1556 — 63. 
Then with a guide (from the inn, 30 kr.), provided with the key of the 



Baedeker's Rhine, 5th Edit. 



114 Route 20. 



SOBERNHEIM. From BmgerbrucU 



tower (see below) in 1 hr. to the Donnersberg, Roman Mona Jovis (2263 ft.), 
during the French period Mont Tonnevre , whence the department derived 
its name. The tower (keys at Marienthal and Dannenfels), 100 ft. in height, 
erected in 1865 , commands a noble prospect , embracing the valley of the 
Rhine, the Haardt to the S., and the Odenwald and Taunus Mtsi to the E. 

Those who desire to penetrate farther into the Palatinate (p. 231) should 
now descend by a steep path , shaded by beautiful beech , ash, and maple 
trees, in l \-> hr. to Dannenfels (j*G umbel , ^Lander, both unpretending), a 
village situated among remarkably fine chestnuts. The road hence, desti- 
tute of shade, traverses an undulating plain to (2^4 M.) Bennhausen^ 
(1*12 M.) Weitersweiler, and (i l J 4 M.) Dreysen , where it crosses the 'Kaiser- 
strasse 1 , a road constructed by Xapoleon. Then Gollheim , 1 3 |4 M. farther 
(see p. 233). 



Leaving the principal station at Kreuznacb , the train crosses 
the Nahe, passes the salt-works of Carlshalle on the r. , and skirts 
the base of the Gans (p. 112), opposite to which are the long eva- 
porating sheds of the salt springs of Theodorshalle. To the L, where 
the train next crosses the Nahe, rise the two remarkable pinnacles 
of the Itheingrafenstein (p. 112). 

Stat. Munster am Stein, see p. 112). 

From Munster am Stein to Kaiser slautern railway in 2^4 hrs. 
(fares 2 fl. 42, 1 fl. 36, 1 11. 6 kr.). The line crosses the jSTahe, which here 
forms the boundary between Prussia and Bavaria, and beyond stat. Ebern- 
bwra\ a small village at the foot of the castle of that name (p. 113), as- 
cends the valley of the Alsenz. Stat. Altenbamberg lies at the foot of the 
Altenbaumburg (p. 113). To the r. above Alsenz (Post) , a village with a 
coal-mine, rises the ruin of Randeck. Stations Dielkirchen , Rockenhausen 
(best starting-point for the ascent of the Donnersberg , see above) \ then 
Witmweiler (^Hoster) , an industrious village , with iron-works and a copper 
foundry, near the picturesque Frankensteiner Thai, with the ruin of Franken 
stein. Stations Langemeil-Miincltweiler , Sembach-Neuheimsbatch , Enkenbaeh, 
and Hoehspet/er. Thence to Kaiser slautern, see p. 230. 

Beyond a cutting the Rheingrafenstein again appears on the 1., 
and then the Ebernburg (p. 113), separated from it by the valley of 
the Alsenz. The train next passes between the Nahe and the base 
of the precipitous Rothenfels (p. 113), the best view of which is ob- 
tained by looking back on the 1. side, after passing through two 
tunnels, and before reaching Norheim. 

The line follows the picturesque windings of the valley, passing 
Niederhausen on the r. , Oberhausen on the 1. , and an abrupt rock 
rising on the r. , crowned with the ruins of Bbckelheim, in which 
the Emp. Henry IV. was kept prisoner by his son Henry Y. in 
1105, in order to compel him to surrender the imperial treasures 
deposited at the castle of Hammerstein (p. 59). Waldbockelheira 
lies in a side-valley, 2 M. to the N. of the station. 

The castle and abbey of Sponheim , the ancestral seat of one of the 
oldest Rhenish families (comp. p. Ill) , are situated l \i hr. to the N. of 
Waldbockelheim. The Romanesque church is interesting. 

Emerging from a tunnel beyond ( r.) Boos, the traveller observes 
on the 1. the extensive ruins of *Dissibodenberg , a monastery 
founded by the Irish bishop Dissibodus (d. 500), the tirst propa- 
gator of Christianity in this district (20 min. to the E. of Staudern- 
heim). It was abandoned in 1560, and is now converted into plea- 



to Metz. 



OBERSTEIN. 



20. Route. 115 



sure-grounds , which afford a. survey of the valley of the Nahe and 
its affluent the Glan. 

Staudernheim (*Salmen) lies to the 1. , connected with the 
station by the rive-arched 'Landgrafen-Briicke', constructed in 
1850. 

Sobernheim (Adler; Hoheburg) is a small town of some an- 
tiquity , enclosed by a wall. Several of the old houses bear quaint 
inscriptions , said to be taken from the 'Freidank', a work of the 
13th cent. 

Monzingen (Pflug), on the slope to the r., yields one of the best 
wines of the Nahe. On the r., farther on, is Martinstein, curiously 
built on a rock , with its church on an eminence surrounded by a 
fine group of trees. Beyond it, in a valley opening on the r. , are 
situated the grand ruins of Schloss Dhaun. 

*Dhaun , the seat of a branch of the Wildgrafen and Rheingrafen 
which became extinct in 1750 , was erected in the 12th cent. , and greatly 
extended in 1729. This strikingly picturesque castle is situated 6 M. from 
stat. Monzingen, and 3 1 j2 M. from Kirn (see below). A relief over one of the 
doors , representing an ape giving an apple to a child , commemorates the 
incident that a child of one of the Counts was carried off by an ape , but 
fortunately recovered. Magnificent view of the valley of the Nahe as far as 
the Lemberg , of the Simmerthal , and the dark ravines of the Soonwald. 

The traveller who visits Schloss Dhaun from Monzingen should return 
to the valley of the Nahe by Johannesberg (see below). 

On an eminence to the r. stands the church of Johannesberg, 
which contains ancient tombstones of the Wildgrafen and Rhein- 
grafen. The valley contracts , and the train soon reaches Kirn 
(*Stroh, near the station ; *Post) , with an ancient church (nave 
Romanesque, choir Gothic, added in the 15th cent, good ciborium, 
and several tombstones of Counts Palatine). The town is com- 
manded by the ruin of Kyrburg { ^Restaurant) , once a residence of 
the Princes of Salm-Kyrburg , the last of whom perished by the 
guillotine in Paris in 1794. 

About D| 2 M. up the valley of the Hahnenbach , which falls into the 
Nahe at Kirn , are the ruins of Stein-Callenfels , curiously perched on the 
rock like a swallow's nest. At the entrance to the valley are several agate 
polishing mills. In the background the white castle of Wartenstein , on 
a wooded height; thence by Oberhausen to Dhaun, and from Dhaun by Jo- 
hannesberg, or through the woods to Kirn, a pleasant walk of 3^2 hrs. 

The valley now expands, but the line again enters a mountain- 
ous district at Sulzbach , where the cliffs become more abrupt. Be- 
yond stat. Fischbach the train comes in view of Oberstein, situated 
most picturesquely on the opposite bank, */% M. from the station 
[Restaurant, picturesque view). To the r. , below Oberstein , are 
huge masses of conglomerate on the road-side , termed the 'Fallen 
Rocks', which have become detached from the hill , and now stand 
leaning against it. 

^Oberstein (*Neue Post, Scriba , both near the bridge leading 
to the station ; agates at the Gewerbehalle , a few paces to the r. of 
the bridge , and at many shops) is the finest point on the Nahe. 
The precipitous cliffs, 400 ft. in height, which confine the town 

8* 



1.16 Route 20. SAARBRUOKEN. From Bingerbruck 



within narrow limits , are crowned with two ruined castles of the 
Barons of Oberstein , who became extinct in 1617. Halfway np is 
the ^Protestant Church , curiously built into the face of the rock in 
the l'2th cent., and restored in 1482. It contains an old tombstone, 
supposed to be that of the founder , and a portrait of the Oberstein 
family. Steps ascend to the church opposite the bridge ; the sexton 
lives in the last house on the 1. The new Gothic Rom. Cath. Church, 
constructed of grey 'nielaphyr, lies on the r. bank of the Nahe. 

Oberstein contains 3500 inliab. t 1 ^ Rom. Cath.) , most of whom 
are occupied in cutting and polishing agates. These stones were formerly 
found here in abundance , but have now become scarce , and are largely 
imported from Brazil and Montevideo. A process has been discovered by 
which colourless agates are converted into onyxes, sardonyxes, <fcc, by the 
addition of colouring matter. On the Iddrbach , which falls into the 
Nahe near Oberstein , there are upwards of fifty polishing mills. Idar 
(^JSchiitzenhaus), i 1 ^ M. to the 1>.W. of Oberstein (post-omnibus four times 
daily in 20 min.) , also possesses a Gewerbehalle , or industrial hall, in 
which these wares are sold at officially regulated prices. At Idar and 
Oberstein upwards of 100 'goldsmiths' 1 are engaged in setting the stones 
in silver and other metals. — Beautiful excursion to the Wildenburg (l^hr.) 
by the Katzenloch : guide necessary. 

Beyond Oberstein the train passes through a rapid succession 
of tunnels and cuttings. Stations Kronweiler, Heimbach; then Bir- 
kenfeld (Emmerich) , 3 M. to the N. of the railway, the capital of 
the principality of Birkenfeld , now belonging to the Duchy of 
Oldenburg. From stat. Tilrkismuhle a diligence runs to Treves in 
774 hrs. At Wallhausen the line attains the culminating point 
(1030 ft. 1 between the Nahe andSaar, and then descends to the 
district-town of St. Wendel ( Jochem), with a line old Gothic church 
and pulpit of 1262. Beyond the tunnel (414 yds.) of Wiebelskirchen. 
the train reaches 

Neunkirchen (Jochum, near the bridge"), the centre of the rich 
mining and coal district of Saarbriicken. The foundry of Messrs. 
Stumm employs 800 hands . .and yields 5000 tons of iron goods 
annually. Neunkirchen is the junction of the Mannheim line 
(R . 42). 

Beyond Neunkirchen is the Bildstock Tunnel (517 yds.). The 
numerous cuttings here expose to view strata of coal, often curiously 
dislodged, with intervening layers of slate and sandstone, contain- 
ing remarkable fossil plants (sigillaria) in unusual abundance. In 
many of the cuttings 40 — 50 fossil trees of various diameters have 
been found. The coal mines, some of which lie on the main line, 
while others are connected with it by branch lines , all belong to 
the Prussian government. They employ about 13,000 hands, and 
yield 2y 2 million tons annually , worth about 1,000,000 Z. These 
mines have given rise to the industry of the district, in which 
glass-houses, manufactories of sal-ammoniac , Prussian-blue, etc., 
abound. 

Between the stations of ISulzbach and DuUweiler , in a wood ^4 M. to 
the 1. of the line, is situated the 'Brennende Berg' , or burning mountain, 
a. coal-bed which ignited spontaneously at the beginning of last century. 



to Metz. 



METZ. 



20. Route. 1 1 7 



Slow combustion still takes place, and the bed, 400 by 40 yds., is gra- 
dually sinking. Smoke is seen, especially aiterra in, issuing from the 
fissures , in which eggs are sometimes cooked by visitors. 

Saarbrucken (*Zix) , a town with 7686 inhab. , on the Saar, 
which here becomes navigable , was the last Prussian town towards 
the French frontier, down to 1871. It is connected by two bridges 
with St. Johann ( Guepratte; *Rhein. Hof; Zimmermann; Hagen, 
at the station, unpretending), a town with 9143 inhab. The Schloss 
was occupied by the princes of Nassau-Saarbrucken down to 1793; 
the palace-church contains monuments of the family. Numerous 
coal-mines, manufactories, etc. are in the neighbourhood. Railway 
to Treves, see R. 21 ; to Saargemiind, Hagenau, and Strassburg, see 
p. 223. 

On the heights of Spicheren , about 3 M. to the S. of Saarbrucken , on 
6th Aug. 1870, a sharp engagement took place between the Prussians and 
French, in which the latter, although numerically superior, were obliged 
to retreat. A visit to the battle-field occupies 3 — 4 hrs. (carr. 4 Thlr.). 
The Metz road is followed, passing the (1 M.) Ehrenthal , the burial-place 
of the German soldiers who fell at Spicheren , and the ( l |2 M.) toll-house 
and '•Goldene Bremrri' inn. On the 1. rises the Spicherer Berg (875 ft.), 
with its steep and scantily wooded slopes, a strong position in which the 
French hat intrenched themselves. The Germans began the attack 
from the r. and 1. side of the road, and from the Winterberg, a hill about 
1 M. to the S. of Saarbriicken. A tower recently erected on the latter 
height to commemorate the victory commands a good survey of the 
battle-field. 

At St. Arnual, l 1 ^ M. to the S.E. of Saarbriicken, on the E. side of 
the Winterberg , is a *Church in the best Gothic style , with remarkably 
fine font , pulpit , and interesting monuments of the princes of Xassau- 
Saarbrucken. 

The Railway to Metz crosses the Saar, traverses the battle- 
field of 6th Aug. 1870, and passes stations Stiring-St. Wendel, and 
Forbach, a thriving little town. Tho the 1. in the distance rises the 
hill of Spicheren (see above). The country beyond Forbach is un- 
dulating. At Benningen the line from Metz to Saargemiind and 
Strassburg diverges to the 1. 

Next stations Homburg an der Rossel^ St. Avoid, Falkenberg, 
Herny, Remilly, Courcelles, all frequently mentioned in the annals 
of the Franco-Prussian war. At Courcelles a battle was fought on 
14th Aug. 1870 , the result of which was to delay the intended 
march of the French army under Marshal Bazaine. Then Peltre, 
which was entirely destroyed in consequence of a sally on 30th 
Sept. 1870. On the r. , before the station of Metz is entered, rises 
Fort Queuleu. 

Metz [*Hutel de l'Europe (PI. b), Rue des Clercs 5 Grand Hotel de 
Metz (PI. a), in the same street; charges in both: R. 3 — 5, L. 1, D. at 6 
o'clock 4, B. li| 2 , A. 1 fr. 5 *Hotel de Paris (PI. c), adjoining the terrace, 
and *H6tel de la Poste (PL g) , both of the second class: R. 2 — 3,_B. 1, 
A. 1 fr. 5 *H6tel du Nord (PI. d) ; Hotel du Commerce (PL e). — Cafe du 
Grand Balcon and Cafe 1 du Heaume in the Esplanade. Cafe" Parisien, Place 
de la Comedie. — * Restaurant Moi trier , Rue Chapelrue 4, adjoining the 
Rue Serpenoise. Beer Garden, Rue des Clercs 1. — Bookseller opposite 
the Hotel de LEurope. — Carriages and omnibuses to the battle-fields, 
see p. 119], the capital of German Lorraine, with an almost entirely 



11S Route 20 



METZ. 



Cathedral. 



French population of 51.356 souls, lie- in a wide basis on the 
Moselle, which flows through the town in several arms. It was once 
the capital of the kingdom of Australia, and subsequently belonged 
to the German Empire . until it was taken by the French in 1552, 
and successfully maintained by them against an army which besieged 
it under Charles V. By the Peace of 1556 it was ceded to the French 
together with tool and Verdun, and in 1871 it was again incorpora- 
ted with the Empire of Germany. 

Metz has always been a strongly fortified place , and under the 
French regime was rendered one of the greatest fortresses in Europe 
by the construction of forts on the neighbouring heights. Until its 
surrender to the Germans on 27th Oct. 1870, the fortress had never 
succumbed to an enemy, and even on that occasion it is probable 
that mismanagement on the part of the French contributed mainly 
to its downfall. The Germans are now actively engaged in restoring 
and completing the fortifications* 

The *C</' i ft e J r a I [PI. 7i . the finest edifice in the town . is a 
magnificent GotMc structure , begun in the 13th cent. The nave 
was completed before 1392, the choir dues from the loth and 
16th cent, and was consecrated in 1546 . and the unsightly poTtal 
was added in the degraded taste of the 15th cent. The whole build- 
ing was restored in 1830 — 35. The ^Interior is very interesting, al- 
though m^st of the old monuments were destroyed at the time of the 
French Revolution. By the altar adjoining the sacristy is a kneeling 
figure of the architect Pierre Per rat id. 1400). Several late Gothic 
paintings on the pillars have recently been discovered under the 
white -wash and restored. The choir contains fine stained glass 
windows, the oldest of which, of the loth cent., are on the S. side ; 
those in the middle are of the 14th and loth cent. . and several 
others are modern. The tower. 387 ft. in height t llfi -tops to the 
first gallery. 105 more to the huge clock termed La Muette. and 
78 thence to the highest gallery"! commands a beautiful view of the 
town and the fertile l Bau& Messin' . 

The M a r c h i L u u d e r t [PL '23 ) to the W. of the Cathedral should 
be visited in the morning for the sake of seeing the magnificent 
display of vegetables and fruit yielded by the remarkably fertile 
environs. 

The Place >V A r m e s . adjacent to the Cathedral on the W v , is 
embellished with a Statue of Marshal Fabert (d. 1662). a native of 
Metz. who dwinguished himself in the campaigns of Louis XIV. 
It bears the gallant hypothetical declaration of the marshal: \Si. 
pour empecher qu'une place que le Roi m a confie'e ne tombat an 
pouvoir de Tennemi. il fallait mettre a la breche ma personne . ma 
famille . et tout mon bien . je ne halaneerais pas on moment a le 
faire.' 

The Church of St. Vincent f PI. 14). a tine Gothic structure begun 



Germans: cSa Infantry, ^ Cavalry, ^ AHilleri 



Esplanade, 



METZ. 



20. Route. 119 



in the 13th cent., with traces of the Romanesque style, is disfigured 
externally, like the cathedral, with an unsuitable modern facade. 

In the Rue Marcel (PI. B, 4) in the vicinity , is the handsome 
modern Romanesque Church of Ste. Constance, with good mural 
paintings of 1861 by Hussenot , a native of Metz. The church be- 
longs to the extensive Orphelinat, or orphan asylum, wherein- 
tending visitors must apply. 

The Library (PI. 2), in the Rue Chevremont, near the cathedral, 
recently re-opened, contains many valuable works on the history of 
Lorraine and the town itself. The Museum in the same building, 
embraces a considerable collection of Roman antiquities (in two 
rooms) , a collection of coins (one room) , a natural history cabinet, 
and a picture gallery (three rooms). 

The handsome Church of St. Eucliarius (PL 8) , with a plain 
interior, near the Porte des Allemands, dates from the 12th cent. 

The Esplanade, which extends towards the S.W. of the town, 
is laid out in pleasant walks. The spacious Kaiser- Wilhelm- Caserne 
(PL B, 6), formerly the Caserne du Genie, is situated here. In 
front of the Esplanade stands a Statue of Marshal Ney , who was 
born at Saarlouis in 1769, created Due d'Elchingen by Napoleon in 
1805, and Prince de la Moscowa in 1812, and shot in 1815 in con- 
sequence of his defection from the royal cause to that of Napoleon 
after the return of the emperor from Elba. 

The Palais de Justice (PL 25), an extensive building of the last 
century, is also situated in the Esplanade. 



The Battle Fields of 16th and 18th August, 1870, lie to the W. of 

Metz on the road to Verdun , and may most conveniently be visited by 
taking the following drive of 9 — 10 hrs. (two-horse carriage about 30 fr., 
the best at the principal hotels, 35 fr. ; omnibus to Gravelotte, see below). 
The route is from the Porte Serpenoise , near the railway station , by the 
road ascending the pretty valley of the Moselle. On the hill to the r. 
lies Fort St. Quentin , to the 1. Fort St. Privat. To the 1., farther on, 
rises the chateau of Frescati , where the Capitulation of Metz was signed 
on 27th Oct. 1870. Jouy-aux- Arches and the Roman aqueduct , see p. 120. 
At Corny, the head-quarters of Prince Frederick Charles during the siege, 
the road crosses the Moselle by a handsome suspension-bridge to Noveant 
(p. 121), and ascends the defile above the village to Gorze. The traveller 
should then turn to the r. to Rezonville, Gravelotte , Verneville Ste. Marie- 
aux-Chanes, St. Privat, <fec. (see below). 

Those who desire to visit the Battle Field of the 18th August only 
should proceed by railway (in 24 min.) past the base of Fort St. Quentin 
to Moulins-les-Metz (3 M. from Metz), where the high-road to (2 M.) Ars- 
sur-Moselle (p. 120) diverges to the 1. The road to Gravelotte (omnibuses 
run in connection with the trains) ascends from Moulins to the 1. the E. 
mountain slopes, while the railway (opened April , 1873) proceeds in the 
valley which here opens to the N.W. , by Chatel St. Germain to (5 M., 
rail, in 25 min.) Amanvillers (p. 120), 1 M. S. of St. Privat. 

By the village of RdzerieulleS, farther up the hill on the main road 
to Gravelotte, began the 1. wing of the French army, whose chief 'point, 
d'appur was the farm of Point du Jour situated on the hill. The Ger- 
mans who opposed them consisted of the 7th and 8th Prussian Corps, 
who towards evening were supported by the 2nd Corps. The French 
maintained their position until nightfall, but retreated on the morning 



1 20 Route 20, 



GRAVELOTTE. 



of the 19th. The inn of St. Hubert, somewhat lower down the hill, had 
however previously been captured by the Germans in the course of the 
afternoon. The road descends into a ravine and then ascends to the pla- 
teau of Gravelotte (*H6tel du Cheval d'Or), 5 ML from Moulins - lcs - Metz. 
In the middle of the village the road divides , both branches leading to 
Verdun. On that to the r. (X.), about 1 M. farther, lies the farm of 
Malmaison , near which a good survey is obtained of the Point du Jour 
(see above), Moscou , Leipzig^ Moniigny -la-Grange , and other heights oc- 
cupied by the French. Malmaison w T as occupied by the 9th Prussian corps 
d'arme'e , the lines of which extended along the road diverging to the r. 
as far as (i 1 ^ M.) Verniville. To the W. of the village (reached by the 
road diverging to the 1.) is a handsome Monument to some of the fallen 
Germans. Good view from the height. To the N. of Verneville French 
territory is crossed for a short distance. The villages of (i 1 ^ M.) Habonville 
and ( 3 |4 M.) St. Ail , from which the r. wing of the guards and behind it 
the reserve of the 10th Corps advanced, are French : Ste. Marie-aux-Chenes, 
3 4 31. farther, the centre of the 1. wing of the guards, now belongs to Ger- 
many. Farther X. are Montois-Ia-Montagne and Malancourt, where the 1. 
wing of the German line of battle was terminated by the Saxon corps. 
The r. wing of the French opposite was posted by the villages of Roncourt 
and St. Privat - la - Montagne , opposite Ste. Marie, on the road, both of 
which were taken in the evening by an attack of the guards and the 
Saxons, whereupon the r. French wing retreated towards Metz in great 
confusion. Several Monuments have been erected to the Germans on the 
road from Ste. Marie to St. Privat. From the latter the traveller may 
now return to (1 M.) Amanvillers and by the above mentioned railway 
to (5 M.) Moulins-les-Metz, or by footpaths passing the farms of Montigny- 
la-Grange, La-Jolie, Leipzig, Moscou, and Point du Jour. 

The Battle Field of the 16th August adjoins that above described. 
The position of the French was principally supported on the 1. by the 
village Sezonville, situated on the 1. (S.) branch of the road from Grave- 
lotte, and l 1 ^ M. distant from it. (A little to the S. of the village , at the 
end of the ravine ascending from Gorze, mentioned above, is a monument 
to the commander of the 7'2nd Regiment, who fell at this spot \ good view 
hence.) The French line of battle extended in a semicircle towards the 
!N.W. as far as St. Marcel and Bruville , while the Germans advanced 
from the woods towards the S. , in the direction of the road. Between 
Rezonville and Vionrille, ±*/ 2 M. farther, the important attack by German 
cuirassiers and Fhlans on the French batteries on the 1ST. side of the road 
took place, and between Vionville and Mars-la- Tour the distressed infant- 
ry of the 10th Corps were relieved by an attack of the dragoon guards. 
Mars-la-Tour itself lies within the French territory. 

From Metz to Luxemburg railwav in 2 — 2^2 hrs. (fares 1 Thlr. 
24, 1 Thlr. li| 2 , 22^2 Sgr.). The line describes a curve on the W. side of 
the town, passing Montigny , Devant -les - Ponts (close to the Porte de 
France of Metz), Maizidres, Hagendingen, Hiickingen , and Thionville (Hotel 
de Luxembourg) . or Diedenhofen , a small fortified town on the Moselle, 
which was taken by the Germans on 24th Nov. 1870. Thenar. Hettingen, 
Bettemburg, Fentange, and Luxemburg (p. 127). 



From Metz to Kancy railway in 2 l / 4 — 2 3 /4 hrs. — The line 
ascends the picturesque and well peopled valley of the Moselle, 
which flows between hills of moderate height. It soon crosses the 
river and reaches Ars - sur - Moselle. A little above the village, 
and also at J ouy-aux- Arches on the r. bank, about S 1 ^ M. from 
Metz, are situated extensive remains of a *Roman Aqueduct erected 
by Drusus , which was once about 60 ft. in height and 3 / 4 M. in 
length, and conducted water from the hills on the r. bank to the 



NANCY. 



SO. Route. 121 



Roman town of Diodurum , the modem Metz. At Ars there are 
seven , and at Jouy eleven arches still standing. Next stat. Noveant, 
connected with Corny (p. 119) by a suspension-bridge. Pagny is 
the German, and Pont-h-Mousson the French frontier station. The 
latter is a picturesquely situated little town , commanded by the 
ruins of the castle of Mousson on a lofty eminence. Stations Dieu- 
louard, Marbach , and Frouard, where the Rhine and Marne Canal 
is crossed, and the line to Paris diverges to the E. 

Nancy (*H6tels de Paris, *de V Europe, *de France, du Com- 
merce, de I Angleterre, de Metz, the two last near the station) , the 
capital of the Departement de la Meurthe , formerly that of the 
Duchy of Lorraine and the residence of the dukes, with 54,000 in- 
habitants , is pleasantly situated in a fertile and vine-clad plain, 
not far from the 1. bank of the navigable Meurthe. The town con- 
tains broad , well built streets, handsome places adorned with foun- 
tains , and a number of imposing buildings for which it is chiefly 
indebted to the two last dukes, Leopold (d. 1729), father of Ernp. 
Francis L, and Stanislaus Lesczynski (d. 1766), ex-king of Poland. 

The traveller enters the town by the Porte Stanislas, one of the 
seven gates of Nancy , which are built in the style of triumphal 
arches, and arrives at the Place D o mb a s I e , embellished with a 
statue , designed by David , of the agriculturist Matthieu de Dom- 
basle (d. 1843), a native of Nancy. 

The first street to the 1. leads from the Rue Stanislas to the 
Cours Leopold, planted with fine old lime-trees, and adorned 
witha*#£aZwe of Marshal Drouot (born at Nancy in 1774) in bronze, 
also designed by David, and erected in 1855. The white marble 
pedestal is decorated with reliefs in cast iron. 

Returning to the Rue Stanislas and descending the street , the 
traveller next reaches the *Place Stanislas , the finest in the 
town , and forming its central point. In the middle of the Place 
rises the Statue of Stanislaus Lesczynski , in bronze, designed by 
Jacquot, facing the Triumphal Arch erected by the ex-king in 
honour of Louis XV. 

Five handsome edifices surround the Place Stanislas : the Hotel 
de Ville, which contains a small but choice collection of pictures 
(e. g. by Delacroix, Horace Yernet , and Claude Lorrain , properly 
Claude Gelee, born at Nancy in 1600), the Theatre, the Evechee, or 
episcopal palace, and two private residences. 

The street passing under the Triumphal Arch leads to the Place 
Carrier e , another fine open space planted with trees, beyond 
which rises the Palace of the former dukes. The Tribunal de Com- 
merce and Cour d'Appel are situated here. 

At the back of the Palace is the Eglise des Cordeliers, or Fran- 
ciscan Church, which contains the octagonal *Chapelle Ronde, erected 
in the 17th cent, as a burial place for the dukes of Lorraine and 
richly decorated with marble. The church contains several inter- 



122 Route 21. 



SAARLOUIS. 



esting tombstones of the 12th — 18th cent. , much injured during: 
the Revolution, but restored in 1822. 

The old Palais Ducal, adjoining the church, was burned down 
on 17th July, 1871, and the greater part of the museum of the anti- 
quities of Lorraine established in it was destroyed. 

In the new town, to the r. of the Place Stanislas when approached 
from the station, rises the Cathedral, a church in the Jesuit style, 
completed in 1822. 

The Eglise de Bon Secours in the suburb of St. Pierre contains 
the monuments of Stanislaus (d. 1766) and his wife. 

From Nancy to Strasshurg, see p. 213. 

21. From Saarbriicken to Treves and Luxemburg. 

Comp. Map, p. 128. 
Railway to Treves in 23| 4 hrs (fares 2 Thlr. fei) 2 , 1 Thlr. 22 1 
1 Thlr. 5 Sgr.) ; to Luxemburg in 3i| 2 hrs. (fares 3 Thlr. 27 , 2 Thlr. 16, 
1 Thlr. 24 Sgr.). 

The line follows the course of the Saar. Picturesque scenery, 
especially between Saarbriicken and Saarlouis , at Mettlach , and at 
Saarburg. Numerous manufactories are passed. Stations Louisen- 
tlial, Volklingen, Bouss, Ensdorf. 

Saarlouis (*Rlieinischer Hof; Zwei Hasen), a Prussian fortress, 
constructed in 1681 by Vauban within one year, in consequence of 
a wager with Louis XIV. , was the birthplace of the unfortunate 
Marshal Ney, the house of whose parents is indicated by a marble 
tablet. The town lies on a peninsula formed by the Saar, at a con- 
siderable distance from the station of Fraulautern. At Wallerfangen 
( Vaudrefange) , in the vicinity, there is an extensive porcelain ma- 
nufactory. 

Next stations D Ming en, Beckingen, andMerzig (Trierscher Hof), 
with a pointed basilica of the 12th cent. Before Mettlach (Saar- 
strom) a long tunnel. The buildings of a suppressed Benedictine 
abbey, founded in the 17th cent., are now occupied by the exten- 
sive earthenware factory of Villeroy and Boch. 

At Mettlach the Saar makes a considerable circuit , which the line 
avoids by the above-mentioned tunnel. The N. point of the hill which 
it penetrates (l 1 ^ hr. to the N.W. of Mettlach, and reached by a shady 
path) is the *Clef (probably from clavis, the round tower which once stood 
here having formed the key to this district) affording a fine survey of the 
two arms of the valley of the Saar, separated by a narrow strip of land. 
On the latter stands the ruined castle of Montclair , destroyed in 1350 by 
Elector Baldwin of Treves. 

One mile W. of the Clef (path through the wood) lies Orscfioiz 
(*Thiellemanns) , from which a carriage-road leads to Weiten, 2^4 M. to 
the N. A mile farther is the old castle of Freudenburg, and i M. beyond 
it a finger-post indicating the way to Castell. Xear this village, on a bold 
rock overhanging the Saar, is a chapel restored by Frederick William IV., 
in which he caused the bones of his ancestor, the blind king John of 
Bohemia, who fell at Cre'ey in 1346, to be deposited in 1838. The castel- 
lan lives in the village below. 

At Nennig (8 M. to the W. of Freudenburg) there is a remarkably fine 



TREVES. 



27. Route. 123 



Roman * Mosaic Pavement , 48 by 33 ft. , representing eight different 
scenes, the principal being a combat of gladiators. 

The line follows the r. bank of the Saar. Near Saarburg the chapel 
of Caste.il is seen on a precipitous rock on the r. bank. Beurig is 
the station for 

Saarburg (Post, carr. to Castell 2 4 /3 Thlr. ; *Trierscher Hof), 
picturesquely situated in a basin , and commanded by the con- 
siderable ruins of a castle of the Electors of Treves. The Gothic 
Church of St. Lawrence was erected in 1856. The Leuk, which here 
unites with the Saar , forms a waterfall , 60 ft. high , near the 
'Post'. The village of Nennig, mentioned above, lies 7y 2 M. to the 
S.W. (diligence as far as Perl once daily). 

The line descends the valley of the Saar, passing (1.) Wittingen, 
{x.~)Scharzhof, and Ober-Ernmel, celebrated for their wines, to Conz, 
the Roman Consitium, below which it enters the valley of the Mo- 
selle. The bridge over the Saar at Conz is mentioned by the Roman 
poet Ausonius (d. 392) in his poem 'Mosella'. The present bridge 
was constructed by Clemens Wenceslaus , the last Elector of Treves 
(d. 1812), to replace one destroyed by the French under Marshal 
Crequi , on their retreat , 11th Aug. 1675, when defeated by the 
confederates under George William of Brunswick. 

The railway crosses the Moselle by a massive stone bridge, 
beyond which the line to Treves turns to the r. The station is near 
the old Moselle bridge. 

Treves. Hotels. *Trierscher Hof (PL a), R. from 20, L. 5, B. 10 
Sgr. 5 *Rothes Haus (PI. b) , similar charges. *Luxemburgek Hof (PI. c) 
and *Stadt Venedig (PI. d), second class. Post (PI. e), opposite the post 
office. 

Restaurants. Fischer, in the market ^ Junk, Neu-Str. 222 (Roman 
mosaic, see p. 126); Steinhaus, Fleisch-Str. •, Schneiders Hof, on an emi- 
nence on the 1. bank of the Moselle, with magnificent view (comp. p. 127). 

Cabs. Per drive within the town, to the amphitheatre, and Zurlanben, 
for 1 pers. 5, 2 pers. 6, each additional pers. 2 l |*2 Sgr. more. For a drive 
of 20 min. 1—2 pers. 5, 3—4 pers. 12i( 2 Sgr.; for 40 min. 10 or 20 Sgr., 
for an hour 15 or 25 Sgr. , for each additional 20 min. 5 or 7 l \-z Sgr. — 
Longer drives [according to bargain. — To Igel (p. 127) one-horse carr. 
1 Thlr. 10 Sgr., two-horse about 2 Thlr. 

Dienstmanner (or valets-de-place) 3 Sgr. per hour, 20 Sgr. per day. 

Railway Station (PL A, 1) on the 1. bank of the Moselle, above the 
bridge. 

Telegraph Office outside the Neuthor. 
Steamboat to Coblenz, see p. 129. 

Treves , Ger. Trier , a town on the r. bank of the Moselle, with 
21,421 inhab. , said to he the oldest in Germany, was once the 
capital of the Treviri , a tribe of Belgic Gauls conquered B. C. 56 
by Ccesar, who converted it into a Roman colony under the name of 
Augusta Trevirorum , after which it was the occasional residence 
of the Emperors. Under Constantine the Great it was the capital 
of Gaul , and as a cradle of art , science , and commerce , almost 
rivalled Rome herself. The numerous relics of that age in the vi- 
cinity are among the finest on this side of the Alps. On the intro- 



124 Route 21. 



TREVES. 



Porta Nigra. 



Auction of Christianity by Constantine , Agricius of Antioch was 
(329) elected first Bishop of Treves, and for nearly 15 centuries the 
town continued to be the residence of the bishops, archbishops, and 
electors , till Clemens Wenceslaus , the last elector , transferred his 
residence to Coblenz in 1786. On 10th Aug. 1794, the French took 
the town, exacted a contribution of iy 2 mil\ ? on fr. , and made it 
the capital of the Department of the Saar. In 1815 it was made 
over to Prussia. 

The surrounding vine - clad hills and wooded heights , and the 
rich plain in which the town with its red sandstone walls and nu- 
merous towers is situated, are strikingly picturesque. Best survey 
from the *Mariensaule (p. 126). 

The Market lies nearly in the centre of the town. The 'Rothes 
Haus' Hotel (PI. b) , situated here , a late Gothic building of the 
15th cent. , was formerly the Rathhaus, and bears the inscription : 
'Ante Romam Treviris stetit annis MCCC. An ancient Column in 
the Platz, supposed to date from 958, was renewed in 1723, and 
is surmounted with a cross with the Lamb of God. 

The Simeons-Strasse, leading out of the market-place towards 
the N.j terminates in the *Porta Nigra (PI. 21) also termed Porta 
Martis , Romerthor , or Simeonsthor , the finest of the Roman struc- 
tures at Treves, a gate with towers of defence , erected in the 5th 
century after Christ. This magnificent relic is 115 ft. long, 75 — 
93 ft. high , and 29 ft. in depth. It consists of three storeys , with 
two gateways , 23 ft. in height , and is constructed of huge . un- 
cemented blocks of lias sandstone , blackened by time. In 1035 it 
was converted into a church , and the lower storey filled up. In 
this state it remained till 1817 , when it was restored to its ancient 
condition by the Prussian government. In the part formerly used as 
the choir a collection of Roman Antiquities is shown by the custo- 
dian of the baths. 

To the E. of the Market Place rises the *Cathedral (PI. 10). the 
episcopal metropolitan church , erected about the year 550 by 
Bishop Nicetius, and said by an ancient tradition once to have been 
a Roman palace and the birthplace of St. Helena, the mother of the 
Emp. Constantine. It is a most interesting structure to connoisseurs 
of architecture, as it combines a number of entirely different styles, 
which have been skilfully exposed to view in the interior, and may 
there be conveniently inspected. The present edifice , exclusive of 
the treasury , is 321 ft. in length , 138 ft. in width , and 90 ft. in 
height; it consists of a nave with single aisles, and a double choir. 
The original building formed a square of 120 ft. , in the centre of 
which four huge columns of granite formed the angles of a smaller 
square of 51 ft. Three of these columns were used in the re-erec- 
tion of the church in the 11th cent. ; fragments of the fourth are 
still to be seen lying at the W. portal. The remains of the original 
structure indicate a tendency to the ancient Roman style. In the 




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Basilica. 



TREVES, 



27. Route. 125 



17th and 18th cent, the church was restored in the degraded taste 
of that age. Traces of extensive modern repairs are visible both 
internally and externally, and in the cloisters. 

In the vaults repose 26 archbishops and electors. The finest monu- 
ment is that of Johann III. (von Metzenhausen , d. 1540) , on the wall of 
the N. aisle. On the tombstone of Elector Richard III. (von Greifferiklau, 
d. 1531) , the successful opponent of Protestantism , are small medallions 
with portraits of the Elector on the 1. , and his most violent antagonist, 
Franz von Sickingen (p. 230) , on the r. In the high altar are deposited 
some highly prized relics, among which are the 'Holy Coaf without seam, 
exhibited at rare intervals , and attracting vast crowds of pilgrims , a nail 
from the Cross , and a portion of the Crown of Thorns. By the steps 
leading to the high altar are statues of Constantine and St. Helena , and 
on the pulpit reliefs in stone of 1572 , representing the eight Beatitudes 
and the Last Judgment. Under the organ-loft is a monument to Arch- 
bishop Baldwin, brother of Emp. Henry IV. 

Adjacent to the cathedral , and connected with it by beautiful 
cloisters restored in 1847, is the *Liebfrauenkirche (PI. 15), a 
church of moderate dimensions , but deservedly admired as an 
example of the transition style. It was completed in 1243, five years 
before the foundation of the cathedral at Cologne was laid. The 
church is circular in form, intersected by a lofty vaulted cross , and 
supported by 12 slender pillars, on which the 12 apostles are repre- 
sented, probably painted in the 15th cent, (they may be seen 
simultaneously from a slab of slate in the pavement , about 8 paces 
from the entrance , which the sacristan points out). The church 
contains numerous monuments of ecclesiastical dignitaries, and the 
mummy of Bishop Tiieodulf, who died in the 6th cent. The 
'^Portal is richly decorated with sculptures , symbolical of the Old 
and New Testament, etc. 

The other churches of Treves are uninteresting. ' 

In the S. E. Quarter there are several remarkable relics of the 
Roman period. 

The *Basilica (PI. 9) , which is said to have been built before 
the time of Constantine , and destined for the administration of 
justice and for commercial purposes, was the seat of the Im- 
perial Governors of the town early in the middle ages , but at the 
beginning of the 12th cent, was made over to the bishops. When 
the town became Prussian , it was converted into a barrack, but 
after 1846 it was restored by the desire of Frederick William IV., 
and in 1856 consecrated as a Protestant church. The interior, which 
terminates in an apse at the N. end , is lighted by a double row of 
windows. 

The *Roman Baths (PI. 24) , entered from the Promenade , and 
also by a gate from the Esplanade, form the S.E. corner of the town 
(fee 5 Sgr.). Down to 1817 they were almost entirely concealed by 
earth and rubbish, but this has been removed, and the spacious 
apartments, halls, and channels for hot air, carefully constructed of 
large bricks and small blocks of limestone , and in tolerable preser- 



126 Route 21. 



TREVES. 



vation, are now exposed to view. The summit, readied by a spiral 
staircase, affords a good survey of the town. 

On a rising ground about 1/4 M. to the E.* of the Baths , is the 
* Amphitheatre , situated among vineyards. This arena, still in 
excellent preservation, with a diameter from N. to S. of 70 yds., 
and from E. to W. of 53 yds., was capable of accommodating 57,000 
spectators. In 306 Constantine here sullied his fame by causing 
several thousand captive Franks , with their leaders Ascarich and 
Ragais , to be torn to pieces by wild beasts; and in 313, thousands 
of the Bructeri were barbarously sacrificed for the amusement of the 
people. The ten apertures in the walls , which led to the vaulted 
dens (caveae) of the wild beasts , are still seen. The * Villa Lautz, 
above the amphitheatre, affords a fine view of the town and amphi- 
theatre. 

In the Diedrichs-Strasse , at the fourth house from the market- 
place on the 1. , are the walls of a building , now employed as a 
coach-house , supposed to have been a Roman Propugnaculum 
(PI. 29), but probably not earlier than the 7th cent. 

The Roman Imperial Palace , according to the most recent in- 
vestigations , stood on the site of the present suburb of Barbeln, to 
the 1. of the bridge. 

The Town Library at the Grammar School (PI. 26), contains 
some rare works , among them the Bible of Fust and Gutenberg of 
1450, and the Catholicon of 1460. The most interesting MS. is the 
Codex Aureus, containing the four Gospels, presented by Ada(d. 809), 
sister ^of Charlemagne , to the Abbey of St. Maximin , within the 
precincts of which she was afterwards interred. It is illuminated 
with allegorical paintings, and the binding is superbly adorned with 
jewels and a cameo of uncommon size , representing the Familia 
Augusta. The Codex Egberti, a number of miniatures, letters of 
Luther , one from Blucher on the death of Queen Louisa , etc. , are 
also interesting. The Ante-Chamber contains portraits of Electors 
of Treves , the Duke of Alva, Huss, Sickingen, and others. 

The Museum in the same building contains a valuable collection 
of fossils and volcanic products from the Eifel , and of Roman and 
mediaeval coins and antiquities. 

A well preserved Roman Mosaic Pavement is preserved at Junk's 
Restaurant, Neu-Strasse 222 (adm. 5 Sgr.). 

The Moselle Bridge of eight arches , situated at the S.W. end 
of the town , is another structure of partially Roman origin. The 
second and seventh buttresses from the town side were blown up by 
the French in 1689 and restored in 1729. The third and fourth 
were repaired on the same occasion. The bridge has recently been 
skilfully widened and levelled. 

The : 'Mariensaule, a tower with a colossal statue of the Virgin, 
situated on the bank of the river opposite Treves , between the 
bridge and the village of Pallien (PI. A, 1) about l/g nr « from tne 



IGEL. 



'21. Route. • 127 



former , affords the best survey of the town and its beautiful en- 
virons. The traveller should return through the entrance to the 
Pallien-Thal , a picturesque glimpse of which is obtained through 
the arch of a bridge built by Napoleon. A little beyond the ferry 
which connects Pallien with Zurlauben on the opposite bank, on 
the hill , lie the Schneider- Ho f Restaurant and the manor of Weiss- 
haus. Farther down the stream is a second ferry. 

About 3 |4 M. to the W. of Treves is situated the venerable Church of 
St. Matthew , said to contain the sarcophagus of that apostle (a favourite 
resort of pilgrims). — About 3 | t M. to the E. of the town is the Church 
of St. Paulin, and in the vicinity a spot marked by a Cross where some 
of the early Christians suffered martyrdom at the hands of the Romans. 
Near it is the venerable Abbey of St. Maximin, now a barrack. 

One of the most interesting Roman relics on this side of the Alps 
is the celebrated :i Igel Monument, popularly termed i Heidenthurni 
(heathens 1 tower), situated in the village of that name, 20 paces to 
the r. of the Treves and Luxemburg road. It is a square sandstone 
column , 75 ft. in height, and 16^2 ft. broad at the base , probably 
erected in the 2nd cent, after Christ , with a number of reliefs and 
inscriptions. Antiquarians differ in their conjectures concerning 
this line relic , and its inscriptions have been variously interpreted. 
It was in all probability erected by the rich mercantile family of 
Secundini, who lived in the vicinity, to the memory of one of their 
sons , who , as some of the allegorical reliefs seem to intimate, 
perished by drowning. The excursion may either be made by car- 
riage (p. 123) from Treves , or the traveller may prefer taking the 
railway to Conz (see below), and walking thence to the 1. across the 
bridge over the Saar (IV2 M.). The road to the r. then leads to 
Reinig, opposite Igel, which is reached by a ferry. The same route 
may be taken in returning, or a boat to Treves may be hired. 

Another object of great interest is the *Mosaic Pavement of a 
Roman villa, discovered in 1852 at Nennig, mentioned p. 123. 



The Luxembur g Line passes Jgel. with its Monument (see 
above), which is visible from the train. Above the village are ex- 
tensive gypsum quarries. Near stat. Wasserbillig the line crosses 
the frontier of Luxemburg ; scenery picturesque ; the Sauer (Sure) 
here unites with the Moselle, after having for some distance formed 
the boundary between Prussia and Luxemburg. Near stat. Mertert 
the line quits the Moselle and ascends the valley of the Sire. To 
the r. Manternach , with a large paper manufactory. Stations 
Wecker, Roodt, Oetringen. The train then crosses the Pulverthal 
by a viaduct 275 yds. long, 100 ft. high. The station of Luxem- 
burg , situated on the r. side of the Petrusthal , is connected with 
the town by a handsome bridge (omnibus to the hotels 1 fr.). 

Luxemburg, formerly Liitzelburg (Hotel de Cologne; Hotel de 
Luxemburg, R. and B. 2^2 — 3, A. */ 2 fr. ; *H6tel de V Europe; Hotel 
des Ardennes) , formerly a fortress of the German Confederation , a 



128 Route 21. 



LUXEMBURG. 



town with 15,000 inhab. , is the capital of the Grand Duchy of 
Luxemburg . which is subject to the king of Holland. The situation 
of the town is peculiar and picturesque. The Oberstadt , or upper 
part , is perched upon a rocky table-land . which is connected with 
the open country towards the N.W. only, and bounded on the other 
three sides by abrupt precipices . 200 ft. in height. At the foot of 
these flow the Petrusbach and the Alzette . which are bounded by 
equally precipitous rocks on the opposite bank. In this narrow ravine 
lies the busy Unterstadt or lower portion of the town , consisting of 
Pfaffenthal , the N. , Clausen, the E. , and Grand the S. suburbs, 
separated by a rocky ridge termed the Bock, or Bouc. The valley of 
the Alzette . sprinkled with houses, and occasionally intersected by 
the walls of the fortress , forms a natural fosse. The view of the 
town with its variety of mountain and valley , gardens and rocks, 
military edifices and groups of trees, obtained from the Treves road, 
is singularly striking , and is enhanced by the railway bridges and 
the huge Petrus Viaduct which connects the railway station with 
the S. part of the Oberstadt. 

The fortifications , which since 1867 have begun to be dis- 
mantled , combine the massive proportions of modern structures 
with the boldness of ancient castles. 

The construction of the works, most of which are now accessible 
to the public, gradually progressed during 500 years under various 
possessors, — Henry IV. . Count of Luxemburg , afterwards German 
Emp. as Henry VII. (d. 1312"). his son John, the blind king of 
Bohemia (killed at Crecy , 13461, the Burgundians, the Spani- 
ards , the French (whose celebrated engineer Vauban constructed a 
great part of the fortress), the Austrians (by whom the fortress was 
surrendered to the French republicans in 1795"). the French again, 
and rinallv the German Confederation, by whom it was evacuated in 
1866. 

The most interesting portion is the Bock, a narrow projecting 
ridge . honeycombed with casemates and embrasures , on which the 
road to Treves descends from the upper part of the town in numer- 
ous windings. The tower on the E. slope . popularly known as the 
Melusinenthurm, dates from the 14th cent. 

Apart from its curious situation and pretty environs. Luxemburg 
contains little to detain the traveller. Of the magnificent castle of the 
Spanish Governor Count Mansfeld (1545 — 1604) no vestige is Left, 
except a gateway in the lower part of the town, into which several 
Roman reliefs and inscriptions are built. The once famous Mansfeld 
Gardens now only nominally exist in a walk (striking view} along 
the E. slope of the hill, near the Treves Gate. The traveller who 
has leisure will be repaid by a walk through the entire valley. 

From Luxemburg to Ai x -la-Chape 11 e railwav in 7 brs. (fares 
19 it, 37. 14 fr. 37 c). The line follows the Alzette as far as Ettclbriick, 
where a short branch line diverges to the r. to the thriving little town 
of Diekirch (*H6tel des Ardennes) on the Sure. The main line ascends 



NEUMAGEN. 



22. Route. 129 



the valley of the Wolz. Stations Clervaux , Trots Vierges (Belgian frontier 
and watershed between the Moselle and Meuse) , Vielsalm , Stavelot , Spa 
(Hdtels d'Orange, de Flandre, des Pays Bas, &c), Pepinster, and thence by 
Verviers to Aix-la-Chapelle. Comp. Baedekers Belgium and Holland. 

22. The Moselle from Treves to Coblenz. 

Steamboats four times a week, in summer sometimes daily, down 
in 11 — 12 hrs. , up in lij 2 day. Fares 4 or Thlr. When the river is 
low they cease to ply. They are smaller than the Rhine-steamers , and 
inferior in comfort. 

From Treves to Coblenz by water, following the numerous wind- 
ings of the river, the distance is about 150 M., by land 70 M. only. 
The high road is uninteresting (diligence twice daily in 15 hrs.). 
The river presents very great attractions. The scenery, though less 
imposing, is sometimes thought more pleasing than that of the Rhine. 
The fall from Treves to Coblenz is 207 ft. 

From Treves to Pallien, see p. 126. Then 

li Pfalzel ( Palatiolum ) , where Adela , daughter of King Dago- 
bert, founded a convent in 655. 

r. Ruwer, on the brook of that name, the Erubrus of the Roman 
poet Ausonius (d. 392), the author of a poem termed the 1 Moselle? . 

1. Ehrang, the Quint ('ad quintum' , i. e. 5 M. from Treves), 
with an extensive iron-foundry, and Issel. 

1. Schweich (*Dany); ferry to the Treves and Coblenz road. 
The towers of the ferry were erected by Elector Clemens Wences- 
laus. 

r. Kitsch; beyond it Longwich. 

1. Riol (Rigodulum) , where the Roman general Cerialis con- 
quered the rebellious Treviri, and took their leader Valentinus 
prisoner {Tacit. Hist. IV. 70). — On the 1. Mehring (with a ferry), 
Polich, and Schleich. On the r. Detzen, 1. Ensch, r. Thornich, 1. 
Clusserath (at the mouth of the Salmbach), r. Kowerich, r. Leiwen. 

1. Trittenheim, the birthplace of Johann Trithemius, an eminent 
historian, and abbot of Sponheim. 

r. Neumagen (Claeren; Hayn), the Roman Noviomagus, where 
Constantine had a castle (the Hnclita castra Constantini of Au- 
sonius) , few traces of which now remain. The church, erected in 
1190, was probably built with the stones of the castle. 

1. Pisport, l Pisonis Portus 1 (Hayn), is celebrated for its wine, 

r. Mustert. — r. Reinsport. 

1. Minheim; then Wintrich and Kesten. 

r. The Ohligsberg , and farther on, beyond Dusemoncl, 

1. The Brauneberg , are both famous for their wines. 

r. Muhlheim (*Karsch), a village of some importance. 

1. Lieser (Jung), with several country-houses in the vicinity, 
at the mouth of the brook of that name. 

r. Andel. 

1. Cues was the birthplace of the learned Cardinal Nicolaus 
Baedeker's Rhine. 5th Edit. 9 



130 Route 22. TRARBACH. 



Prom Treves 



Cusanus (d. 1464), who founded a hospital here and bequeathed to 
it his library, containing some valuable MSS., a number of Codices, 
and rare old impressions. 

r. Berncastel (*Post ; Drei Kbnige) , the capital of this district, 
with 2463 inhab. , was partly burned down in 1857 ; ruined castle 
of Landshut. Diligence daily to Treves in 6, to Kreuznach in 9 hrs. 

A Footpath, commanding a line view, crosses the hill from Bern- 
castel to Trarbach in li| 4 hr. At the highest point, 1130 ft. above the 
river (40 mm.) , stands a direction-post. To the r. of the path are traces 
of extensive intrenchments CGraacher Schanzen ) , made by the Prussians, 
Austrians, and French in 1794. Descent to Trarbach rugsed. Distance 
from Berncastel to Trarbach by water 18 M. 5 steamboat doVn in DJ 2 , up 
in 3 hrs. 

r. Graach, beyond it Zelting en, both yielding excellent wine. 
1. Machern. — r. Bachtig. 

1. TJerzig (*Post; Beres J ; road to Wittlich and the Eifel , see 
p. 141. Below the village is a tower built into the rock, formerly 
a castle, afterwards a hermitage, known as the Michaelslei, or Nico- 
la uslei. 

r. Erden. — r. Losenich. — 1. Kindel. — 1. Kinheim. 

I. Croff (Comes) ; opposite to it. 

r. Wolf, with the ruins of a monastery on the hill. 

r. Trarbach (*Grafinburg), burned. down in 1857, the wealthiest 
town on the river, with 1702 inhab. (Prot.) , is commanded by the 
ruin of the Grafinburg, erected according to tradition in the 14th 
cent, by the Countess Laurette von Starkenburg with the ransom 
she exacted from Baldwin 3 Archbishop of Treves , for his release 
from the Castle of Starkenburg. where she had confined him for an 
attempted infringement of her rights. It was , however , more pro- 
bably built by her son. Count Johann III. (d. 1381). The castle was 
dismantled by the French in 1734. 

Opposite Trarbach, at the foot of vine-clad slopes, lies 

1. Traben (* Feist) , on the table-land above which are traces of 
the fortress of Montroyal, constructed by Louis XIV. in 1686, but 
demolished in 1697 in pursuance of the Treaty of Ryswyck. Fine 
view. 

1. Litzig. — r. On the height Starkenburg, with the ruins of an 
old castle. 

r. Enkirch (*Imieh) : footpath over the hill to Zell in 1 Y2 nr « 5 
by water 9 M. 

1. Beil (Barzen). 

r. Punderich (Schneiders). On the 1. bank, opposite the landing 
place, a steep path ascends in l / 2 nr - through vineyards to the 
:: Marienburg, a ruined castle or monastery. The view is one of the 
finest on the Moselle (refreshments at the top). Descent on the other 
side to Alf. about yg hr. 5 circuit described by the river 11 M., 
which the steamboat performs in 3 / 4 hr. with , and li/g hr. against 
the stream. A good walker, disembarking at Punderich , may cross 



to Cobtenz. 



BERTRICH. 



22. Route. 131 



the river, traverse the hill, and regain the boat at Alf, but the ex- 
periment is hardly recommended. Those ascending the river, how- 
ever, may safely take this short cut. 
r. Briedel, with a new school. 

r. Zell (*Fier) , the chief town of the district, surrounded by 
remnants of an old wall, suffered severely from a lire in 1857. 

r. Merl (G. Scheid; M. J. Scheid), a large village; view of the 
Marienburg. 

1. Alf (*Theisen, post and steamboat office ; Bellevue), pleasantly 
situated at the mouth of the beautiful valley of the Alf. The walk 
from Alf to Piinderich is recommended to those ascending the river 
(see above). 

Baths of Bertr ich. A day may be advantageously devoted to Ber- 
trich and its volcanic environs. 

The road from Alf to Bertrich (5 M. ; carr. l 1 ^— 2 Thlr. ; omnibus 
several times daily, Y l \z Sgr.) leads through the romantic Valley of the 
Alf ', passing the ruins of Burg Arras , and some extensive iron-works, 
and then ascends the valley of the Uesbach. 

Bertrich (*Klering; *Werling; *Adler; *Post; ^Schneider, moderate), 
a watering-place, delightfully situated in a secluded valley, is visited an- 
nually by 1000 patients. The warm springs (90° Fahr.) contain Glauber's 
salt, and are beneficial in cases of gout , rheumatism , and nervous mala- 
dies. On the Romerkessel , an eminence where the Roman relics now in 
the garden of the bath-establishment were found, stands a small Protes- 
tant chapel. 

About !| 2 M. to the W. of Bertrich the road crosses the Uesbach twice. 
Near the second bridge, in the hill to the 1., is the *Kaskeller ('cheese- 
cellar 1 ) , a grotto composed of basaltic columns , each formed of 8 or 9 
spheroids, exactly resembling cheeses. Near it is a scanty Waterfall, 
50 ft. in height. A basaltic stream of lava is visible in several places in 
the bed of the Uesbach. 

If the traveller now follow the new road to Luzerath on the 1. bank 
of the Uesbach as far as the stone marked 6,57, here diverge to the r., and 
pass to the 1. of the Maischquelle, he will reach (in 3 \i hr. from the Grotto) 
the *Falkenlei (1315 ft.), a semi-conical hill, the S. side of which is a 
precipice 170 ft. in height, exhibiting the geological formation of the in- 
tei'ior. At the bottom lie solid masses of lava ; at the top scoriae and slag, 
in which numerous caves and clefts have been formed. A small hermitage 
has been formed here, in which the temperature seldom exceeds 48° Fahr. 
The rocks are thickly covered with yellowish red moss and lichens. The 
summit affords an extensive view of the volcanic peaks of the Eifel ^ the 
highest are the Hohe Acht (p. 67), the Nurburg (p. 67), with a tower 
on its summit, and the Hohe Kelberg •, to the N.W. the prospect is circum- 
scribed by the long isolated ridge of the Mosenberg (p. 140). Lutzerath 
(1295 ft.), a post-station on the Coblenz and Treves road, is 4 l j 2 M. from 
the Falkenlei. Diligence twice daily between Lutzerath and Alf, via Bert- 
rich •, between Alf and Coblenz once daily in 8^2 hrs. (fare 2 Thlr. 5 Sgr.). 

From to Bertrich the Eifel, see p. 137. 

A road passing the Kdskeller (see above) leads to the S.W. to (2M.) Hont- 
heim (p. 139), from which a path to the N. leads to (4^2 M.) Strotzbnsch, 
and by Trautzberg (before reaching which the path becomes indistinct, 
but the direction of the village lying at the foot of a hill, cannot be mis- 
taken) to (li| 2 M.) Strohn (p. 139). 

r. B allay , whence a steep path leads to the (50 min.) Kbnig, 
with extensive prospect. Descent to Merl (see-above) y 2 hr. 
1. Aldegund (Andries), with a very ancient church, 
r. Neef, surrounded by fruit-trees, with an old castellated 

9* 



132 Route 22. 



COCHEM. 



From Treves 



house. A footpath over the hill, on the summit of which the burial- 
ground of Neef and the Chapel of St. Peter are situated, leads in 4 / 2 
hr. to Eller, cutting off the long circuit which the Moselle here de- 
scribes. At the extremity of the bend lies 
1. Bremm (*Arnlinger). 

r. Stub en* a monastery erected in the 12th cent., secularised in 
1788, and finally abandoned in 1793. 

1. Eller (Gietzer; Mainzer), with old castellated houses of the 
feudal ages : road over the Eller Berg to Cochem in 2 hrs. The banks 
are, however, particularly picturesque here, and the traveller is re- 
commended not to leave the river. 

L Ediger (*Lowen). surrounded with old fortifications ; on the 
height the rained Kreuzkapelle. 

1. Senhals, where Roman coins and other relics are often found. 

f. Mesenich. — r. Briedern. — 1. Po Ite rs do rf (*Inn). 

r. Beilstein (Lipmann) ; the castle on the height was once the 
residence of the counts (now princes) of Metternich-Winneburg. 

r. Bruttig, the birthplace of the celebrated grammarian Petrus 
Mosellanus. professor at Leipsic (d. 1524). 

1. Ober- and Nieder-Ernst. Between them a handsome church 
with two towers and school-house. 

r. Valwig; picturesque rocks, somewhat resembling the Lurlei. 

1. Cochem (* Union; *Kehrer) 1 the principal town of the district 
(2475 inhab.), with a ruined castle frequently occupied by the 
Archbishops of Treves in the 14th and 16th cent., is a very striking 
point. The buildings of an old Capuchin monastery are pictures- 
quely situated on an eminence. Beyond it, on the summit of a hill, 
rise the ruins of Winneburg, the most ancient seat of the Metternich 
family. 

r. Cond. opposite Cochem. 

1. Clotten (Thomas), with an old castle, is the depot for the slate 
of Mullenbach, 9 M. to the N. W., with remarkable subterranean 
quarries. 

r. Treis (Castor; Baueiser) , with a modern church; in the 
background a ruined castle. Opposite to it lies 

1. Carden (*Brauer) : church founded by St. Castor about the 
middle of the 4th cent., re-erected in the 12th cent. 

1. Milden. Footpath to Schloss Eltz in 3/ 4 hr. 

1. Moselkern (*Deiss, unpretending) at the mouth of the Eltz. 

In the beautiful valley of the Eltz , 3 M. to the ^ T .W. of Moselkern 
stands ^Schloss Eltz , an ancient residence of the counts of Eltz , most 
picturesquely situated , and one of the best preserved specimens in Ger- 
many of a mediaeval chateau. Many of the rooms are furnished in the 
ponderous style of bygone ages, and the walls hung with family-portraits, 
ancient armour, fee. * In the Rittersaal (knights' hall) a book is kept in 
which visitors may record their names , and inspect the autograph of the 
Prince of Wales, who during his sojourn in Germany visited this striking 
spot. Opposite Schloss Eltz" are the ruins of Trutz-Eltz , erected by Arch- 
bishop Baldwin to command the castle, with the counts of which he car- 
ried on a protracted feud. About 3 M. farther up the valley are the fine 



to Coblenz. 



COBERN. 



22. Route. 133 



ruins of Pyrmont. The path (guide unnecessary) from Moselkern to hr.)- 
Schloss Eltz crosses the stream beyond the 3rd mill, 25 min. from the 
entrance of the valley , and then continues on the r. bank. — By carriage 
the excursion can only be made from Munstermaifeld ( Mai/elder Hof ; 
>Sonne), an old town 3 M. to the N.E. of Schloss Eltz. The church was 
founded as early as 642 5 the front with the towers looks as if it apper- 
tained to some old fortress. Best survey of Schloss Eltz from the back 
of the chapel , situated at the point where the road from Munstermaifeld 
descends into the valley •, in the foreground the picturesque ruins of 
Trutz-Eltz. — Diligence daily from Munstermaifeld to Coblenz in 3 hrs. 

Below Moselkern, opposite Bur gen, a tall round tower rises on 
the hill to the 1., a remnant of Burg Bischof stein, erected in 1270. 
1. Hatzenport, L Hattonis Porta' (*Heidger). Opposite lies 
r. Brodenbach. (*Joh. Probst) , from which a road ascends a 
ravine to the ruins of the *Ehrenburg (2 M.), situated on an isolated 
peak, the finest rain on the Moselle. Road to Boppard on the Rhine, 
see p. 85. 

1. Tempelhof, or Sternenburg, an old castle situated in the midst 
of vineyards, now restored and inhabited. 

r. Aiken, an ancient borough connected by walls and towers with 
the old castle of Thurant above, which was built by Count Palatine 
Heinrich in 1197. It was besieged by the Archbishops of Treves and 
Cologne in 1246—48 , when 600,000 gallons of wine are said to 
have been consumed by the besiegers. 

1. Katenes. 

r. Oberfell. — r. Kuhr (*Giinther). — 1. Lehmen (*Zirwas). 
r. Niederfell (Gapp ; Fasbender). 

1. Gondorf (*Haupt), with an old electoral chateau erected in 
1560; the Tempelhof, a chateau in the Gothic style, has recently 
been restored. 

1. Cobern (*Simonis). A steep footpath ascends through the 
vineyards (the path with the pilgrimage stations is longer, but easier) 
to the Niederburg, once the seat of the knights of Cobern. Higher 
up is situated the Ober- orAltenburg, within which is the recently 
restored * Chapel of St. Matthias , interesting to architects. It is 
hexagonal in form , resembling the church of the Holy Sepulchre 
in its plan , and is said to have been founded by a crusader in the 
13 th cent. 

r. Dieblich (Nortersh'auser), with a handsome new church. 

1. Winningen (*Hoffbauer ; Adler: Schwan), a small market- 
town, where the best wine of the Lower Moselle is produced ; below 
it, r. Lay, and 1. Gills (Zillien) with a handsome modern church, 
in the midst of a vast orchard. 

r. Moseiweis, surrounded by fruit-trees. 

r. Coblenz (p. 73). Pier above the railway-bridge, beyond 
which rises Ehrenbreitstein ; to the 1. is the Peter sberg. 



134 



23. From Aix-la-Chapelle to Treves by Diiren. 

Railway from Aix-la-Chapelle to Diiren in s (4 — ]_ ]± r ^ see p. 
From Diiren to Treves (Eifel Railway) in 4 3 |4 — 5 hrs. (fares 4 Thlr. 17, 
3 Thlr. 12*|2, 2 Thlr. 9 Sgr.) 

Travellers approaching the Rhine-land in this direction should visit 
some of the interesting Eifel scenery (R. 24) in passing, and then descend 
the beautiful Moselle by steamboat. 

From Aix-la-Chapelle to Diiren, see p. 9. — The Eifel Rail- 
way here diverges to the S.E. Scenery at first uninteresting. Stat. 
Vettweis; then Zulpich, an ancient town . the Roman Tolbiacum, 
where in 496 the Alemanni were conquered by the Franks, in con- 
sequence of which victory Olovis became converted to Christianity. 
The handsome Romanesque church of St. Peter, of the 11th and 
12th cent., contains carved Gothic altars of the 16th cent. The four 
gates of the old fortifications of the town, dating from the 15th cent., 
are also worthy of notice. 

Euskirchen (Bheinischer Hof) , a busy little town with several 
cloth factories , lies among the spurs of the Eifel. Direct railway 
hence to the Rhine and Cologne via Sechtem (p. 110) in course of 
construction. 

From Euskirchen diligence twice daily in l 1 ^ hr. to Miinstereifel , a 
small town on the Erft, with a late Romanesque church of the 12th cent., 
containing several good tombstones of the 16th cent, and a winged altar- 
piece of the school of Lucas van Leyden. 

From Euskirchen the line turns towards the S.W. to Satzvey 
and Mechernich. To the 1. of the latter are extensive lead-mines and 
foundries. At Call the line reaches the narrow valley of the L'rft, 
bounded by sandstone rocks , and ascends the course of the stream. 

Stat. Blankenheim lies 2^2 M. from the place of that name 
(diligence four times daily), which is situated on a height to the 
W. , near the sources of the Ahr (p. 67), with the picturesque 
ruins of the ancestral castle of the knights of Blankenheim , built 
in the 12th cent. The parish church contains the burial vault of 
the family. 

From Blankenheim a diligence runs once daily to Adenau (p. 67) 
in 4 hrs. , and another once daily to Miinstereifel (see above) in 2 1 |2 hrs. 

The line continues to ascend, until at Schmidtheim it crosses the 
watershed between the Urft and the beautiful * Valley of the Kyll, 
which it enters at Junker ath, the station for Stadtkyll, situated 
2 M. higher up (diligence four times daily). The train now descends 
the valley, passing over 44 bridges and viaducts, and through 
10 tunnels. 

Stat. Hillesheim (*ScJnnitz), a small town. 

About 3 M. to the N.W. of Hillesheim on the road to ClG 1 ^ M.) Adenau, 
lies Kerpen, with a beautiful ruined castle. Thence to (i 1 ^ M.) Xiederehe 
(Schmitz, tolerable, established in an old monastery), a village in a basin 
of shell - limestone , and. following the course of the Ahbach , to (2 31.) 
the Nohner Miihle and the Dreimiihl Waterfall, two picturesque points. 

From Hillesheim to Daun 14 M. The road leads by (4s| 4 M.) 
Oberehe and (2^4 M.) Dreis, between which places, to the r. of the road, 
lies the Dreiser Weiher , a marshy meadow remarkable for its strong car- 
bonic acid exhalations. On the E. aim S. sides of it are frequently found 



GEROLSTEIN. 



23. Route. 135 



nodules of olivine, which have heen thrown up by volcanic agency. The 
next village is (1 M.) Dockweiler , to the S. of which rises the *Erensberg 
(2198 ft.), an extinct crater, from which a thick stream of basaltic lava, 
beginning about 200 ft. below the summit, descends towards the N. to Dock- 
weiler and Dreis. The ascent of this hill is also interesting on account of 
the view it commands and the extensive millstone quarries situated on 
it. The path diverges from the road at the point where it divides beyond 
Dockweiler. The Daun and G-erolstein road passes the base of the Erens- 
berg on the S. side. Daun, see p. 138. 

The most interesting part of the line begins below Hillesheim. 
The valley, which at places is fertile and well cultivated, is enclosed 
by precipitous and partially wooded limestone rocks of most pictu- 
resque forms. To the r. of the village of Pelm, which the train 
passes, rises a wooded hill crowned with the ruined *Casselburg 
(ascent 20 min.), once the ancestral castle of the knights of Castel- 
berg, commanding a fine view of the Kyllthal. Refreshments at the 
forester's house at the entrance to ths castle. 

The Ice Cavern of Roth , near the village of that name , 3 M. to the 
N.W. of the Casselburg , is an old millstone excavation about 18 ft. in 
depth, where ice is found in summer as in the quarries of Niedermendig. 

Gerolstein (1220 ft.) (*Rail. Rest; *Post , carriage to Daun 3i/ 2 
— 4 Thlr. ; Clemens^ the finest point in the Kyllthal, and one of 
the most picturesque places in the Eifel , is confined within narrow 
limits by the rocks and the river, and commanded by a ruined 
castle , which was occupied by a bailiff of the Counts of Mander- 
scheid down to 179-4. A large lime-tree on the road to Roth (see 
above), a little above the railway station, is a fine point of view. 
On the top of the limestone rocks opposite the village is the Papen- 
kaul, a small extinct crater , from which a narrow stream of lava 
descends by a grassy valley on the N. side' into the Kyllthal , and 
extends down the latter as far as Saresdorf. The entire neighbour- 
hood of Gerolstein is very interesting in a geological point of view. 
Besides the volcanic formations , aqueous limestone , containing in- 
numerable fossil shells, also occurs. The lateral valley which runs 
towards the S. from Pelm to Gees abounds in these fossils, speci- 
mens of which may be purchased of a Frau Scholz at Gerolstein 
and of the schoolmaster at Pelm. From Gerolstein to the Cassel- 
burg (see above) a walk of i l / 2 hr - 5 to Daun (p. 138) 11 M. 

From Gerolstein to Priim 12 M. ; diligence twice daily in 2 1 f 2 hrs. 
Priim (*Goldener Stern, or Post) , a district town at the S. end of the 
Schneifel (p. 137) , situated on the brook of the same name , was once the 
seat of a Benedictine Abbey founded by the Merovingians in 720, and 
once in the enjoyment of political independence, but suppressed by the 
French in 1801. The present buildings, dating from 1756, are occupied 
by the local authorities. The church, with its two towers , has been fre- 
quently altered. 

On the r. bank of the Kyll, about l!/ 2 M. above Birresborn, the 
next station, is situated the Mineral Spring of Birresborn, strongly 
impregnated with carbonic acid gas , and noted for its salutary pro- 
perties. On a hill in the Gerolstein woods, on the 1. bank of the 
Kyll, opposite the spring, and about 100 ft. above the brook, is situ- 
ated a gaseous cavity, or 'mofette' , termed the Brudeldreis , about 



136 Route 28. 



KYLLBURG. 



2 ft. wide and 20in. deep (not easily found without a guide). 
Carbonic acid gas issues from it in considerable volume, especially 
after rain . and occasionally proves destructive to mice , frogs , and 
other small animals (p. 70). 

Stations Miirlenbach , a small village haif burned down in 1871 
with the ruins of a castle founded by the Merovingians , and re- 
erected in the 16th cent., and Densborn. with another ruined castle. 
The limestone rocks are now succeeded by variegated sandstone. 
The line traverses a pleasant wooded tract, and passes the suppressed 
Cistercian monastery of St. Thomas, now employed as a house of 
correction for Roman Catholic priests. The Gothic church was 
completed in 1225. 

Kyllburg (Schulte), another very picturesque place, lies on an 
eminence partially enclosed by the Kyll , and is commanded by the 
handsome Gothic Church of St. Thomas. The latter contains inter- 
esting stained glass of 1534, from designs by Diirer. The adjacent 
cloisters and the suppressed abbey buildings are of later date than 
the church. On a height i l /- 2 M. below Kyllburg rises the well 
preserved chateau of Malberg. commanding a fine view. 

The brook now describes a circuit which the railway cuts off by 
means of the Witseek Tunnel. II/4M. in length. Erdorf is the 
station for Bitburg (*Well), a small town on the hill to the S.W., 
5 3 / 4 M. distant (diligence several times daily). It was the Bedae 
Vicus of the Romans , and a station on their road from Treves to 
Cologne, several of the milestones of which have been found in the 
neighbourhood. The Kobenhof , or house of the Cob von Rudingen 
family, is a curious building of 1576, situated in a side-street. The 
castle to the N. of the town . on the road to Priim , was the ancient 
residence of the knights of Bitburg. At Fliessen, 4 M. farther N. 
on the same road, there is a Roman mosaic pavement, inferior how- 
ever to that at Nennig (p. 122). 

The line continues to follow the valley of the Kyll, which is 
partially wooded, and bounded by sandstone rocks. The brook now 
becomes navigable for rafts. Tunnels and bridges follow each other 
in rapid succession. At Hilttingen a picturesque waterfall is passed. 
Stations Philip p sheim , Speicher (the village lies on the hill, l 1 /? M. 
to the E.~). Ainu, and Cordell. with valuable quarries ; the ruined castle 
of Ramstein . erected in the 14th cent. , is situated at the station, 
which is a considerable way from the village. Ehrang , the last 
station , lies at the junction of the Kyllthal with the valley of the 
Moselle . and is connected by a line of rails with the foundry of the 
Quint (p. 129). To the 1.. before Treves is reached, a fine view is 
obtained of the town on the opposite bank. The station is on the 
1. bank, near the bridge. 



137 



24. The Volcanic Eifel. 

From Treves. With the aid of the railway described in the last route 
the finest points in this most interesting district may be most conveniently 
visited from Treves as fohows : 1st Day. Railway to Gerolstein (pp. 136, 135) $ 
walk to Pelm and visit the Casselburg in l 1 ^ hr. (p. 135) 5 walk or drive 
to Baun , 6 M. 5 ascend the Erensberg and the Scharteberg by the way, if 
time permit. — 2nd Day. Walk by Gemiinden, the Banner Maare, and the 
Mduseberg to Gillenfeld , in 2 hrs. } to the Pulvermaar and back 3 j4 hr. 
Strohn, Sprink l 1 ^ hr. } by the Belvedere to Manderscheid 2 l \± hrs. — 3rd 
Day. Ascend the Mosenberg 1 hr. , descend to Neumilhl 1 hr. Sclncarzen- 
born 1 3 |4 hr. (or from the Mosenberg to Schwarzenborn direct in D|2 hr.) $ 
walk or drive to Kyllburg 6 M., devote 1 — 2 hrs. to environs. Those who 
intend proceeding to Coblenz by the Moselle steamer should go from Neu- 
muhl to Uerzig (comp. p. 141) , but in this case they should visit Kyll- 
burg before Gerolstein. 

From Bertrich (p. 131) the Eifel is best explored as follows: 1st 
Day. Alf, Marienburg, and Bertrich itself with its beautiful environs^ 
2nd. Gillenfeld, Manderscheid; 3rd. Gemunden, Dauner Maare , Daun, 
Gerolstein $ 4th. Kyllburg, and by railway to Treves. 

The Eifel is a mountainous district situated between the Moselle , the 
Rhine , and the Roer , about 45 M. in length, and 24 M. in breadth. The 
E. part is termed the Hohe Eifel, near Adenau and Kellberg, and com- 
prises the Hohe Acht (p. 67), the Niirberg (p. 67), and the Erensberg; 
the W. part is termed the Schneifel (i. e. Schnee-Eil'el), in the neighbour- 
hood of Priim (p. 135) ; and the S. part is the Vorder-Eifel , or Volcanic 
Eifel , embracing Gerolstein , Daun , Manderscheid (p. 140) , and Bertrich 
(p. 131). The district, though somewhat bleak and barren, is very pic- 
turesque at places, especially in the Vorder-Eifel. The latter is also very 
remarkable in a geological point of view owing to the numerous traces it 
bears of former volcanic agency, such as the streams of lava, slag-hills, 
'Maare', or extinct craters filled with water, &c. 

Gerolstein and its environs, see p. 135. 

The Road from G erolstein to Daun (11 M.) traverses a 
district of great geological interest, about 60 sq. M. in area, ex- 
tending N.W. as far as Hillesheim (p. 134) and Steftlen, and A'om 
the former towards the S., down the Kyllthal to Birresborn (p. 135), 
to the E. to Daun (p. 138), and again to the N. to Dockweilcr and 
Dreis (p. 134). Proofs of volcanic action , which are more nume- 
rous here than in any other part of the Eifel , are afforded by pre- 
served crat.-rs , or portions of craters, overflowed by masses of slag 
and streams of lava overlying the grauwacke and limestone rocks, 
and by conical basaltic formations which protrude from the surroun- 
ding rocks. The scenery of the lower part only of the valley of the 
Kyll is picturesque, but this is well worthy of a visit. Pelm and 
the Casselburg, see p. 135. The old road (see below) leaves the 
Kyllthal here. The new road follows it a little farther, and then 
gradually ascends, passing near Rockeskyll, and by the villages of 
Essingen, Hohenfels, which lies in the basin of a crater surrounded 
by precipitous walls of slag, and Betteldorf to Dockweiler , where 
it joins the road coming from Hillesheim (comp. p. 135). 

The old road, which although inferior to the new is recommended 
to tourists, ascends to the r. from Pelm and reaches its highest point 
at Kirchweiler , whence the Erensberg to the N. (p. 135) and the 
Scharteberg (2158 ft.) to the S., both extinct craters, the latter most 



138 Route 24. 



DAUN. 



Eifel. 



distinctly recognisable, may be ascended. The summit of the latter 
consists of blistered masses of slag which surround the circular 
crater. About 100 ft. below the summit begin the lava streams 
which descend towards the N., S., and E. The last of these, al- 
though almost everywhere covered with 'rapilli' (or 'lapilli', small 
round nodules of lava) and volcanic sand , is traceable by the occa- 
sional protrusion of the rock through its superficial covering , and 
may be examined in the quarries worked in it in the direction of 
Steinborn , where a transverse section of two streams lying one 
above the other is exposed to view (near a mound of earth by the road 
side). The lowest stratum consists of porous and bat slightly cleft 
basaltic lava; above it lies slag, 3 — 4 ft. in thickness; next comes 
a layer of rapilli and volcanic sand; and finally, next the surface, 
basaltic lava again (comp. p. 68). A little farther S. is the Nerother 
Kopf (2060 ft.), a hill of slag crowned with a ruined castle, 4t l /. 2 M. 
to the W. of Daun. Beyond Kirchweiler the^ hilly road to Daun 
next passes Steinborn. where there is a mineral spring (to the 1. 
the Felsberg , to the r. the Rimmerieh , two craters with lava 
streams), and Neunkirchen. 

Daun (1292 ft.) (*Grethen. landlord acquainted with the curio- 
sities of the neighbourhood; Schramm. Carriage to Gerolstein, Man- 
derscheid, or Lutzerath 2*^ — 3 Thlr. Diligence daily to Gerolstein, 
and to Lutzerath , Manderscheid , and Wittlich) , a small district 
town, lies picturesquely in the valley of the Lieser, on the slope of 
a hill which is crowned with the remains of the old Schloss of the 
Counts of Daun , a celebrated family , several members of which 
distinguished themselves in the Austrian service. The modern 
building on the hill, which was formerly occupied by a bailiff of 
the Elector of Treves, is now the chief forester's residence. Ad- 
joining it is the modern Protestant Church. The Rom. Cath. Church 
in the village contains two painted coats of arms of the Counts of 
Daun. Several mineral springs in the neighbourhood. 

About l \-z M. to the N.E. of Daun rises the Formerich (1558 ft.) , the 
abrupt margin of a crater covered with slag. The crater itself, which is 
filled with volcanic ashes , is easily distinguished from the surrounding 
masses of lava. The Banner Layen^ a broad stream of lava, descends from 
it towards the W. The eminent geologist Dechen (p. 68) is of opinion 
that the columnar lava on which the castle of Daun stands belongs to this 
stream, that a passage was forced through it by the Lieser at a later 
period, and that the picturesque rocks of the Layen and near the castle 
were thus exposed to view. 

To the S.E. of Daun rises the "Wehrbusch (1555 ft.), another lava hill, 
crowned with a conspicuous monument to the natives of the district of 
Daun who fell in the war of 1870 — 71. 

To the W. of Daun is the Worth (1623 ft.). The Nerother Kopf, 
mentioned above, is 4 M. to the N.W. 

The *Dauner Maare. or crater-lakes of Daun (comp. p. 137), 
He 2y 2 — 5 M. to the S. of Daun in an extensive bed of volcanic 
deposits, consisting of scoriae , rapilli, and of strata of volcanic tufa 
at places. The traveller descends the valley of the Lieser by the 



Eifel. 



GILLENFELD. 24. Route. 139 



road to (IV2 M.) Gemiinden; here he diverges from the road to the 
I., and in a few minutes reaches the Gemilndner Maar (1282 ft.), 
126 ft. above the village. This is the smallest of the crater lakes of 
the Eifel. It lies in a deep and partially wooded basin, and is about 
17 acres in area and 200 ft. in depth. On the E. bank of the lake 
rises the precipitous and barren *Mauseberg (1780 ft.), which may 
be ascended from Gemiinden in y 2 hr. , and commands a very line 
view of a great part of the Eifel. The E. slope of the hill descends 
abruptly to the Weinf elder Maar (1509 ft.), another of these crater 
lakes, 40 acres in area, and 220 ft. in depth. On the N. bank of 
the lake rises the Weinf elder Kirche, a burial chapel for the ceme- 
tery of Schalkenmehren (see below). The traveller should now 
follow the E. bank of the lake and traverse the natural barrier 
which separates the Weinfelder Maar from the Schalkenmehrer 
Maar (1338 ft.), the third of the lakes of Daun, 55 acres in area, 
and 100 ft. in depth, and drained on the S. side by the Alfbach 
(p. 131). The bed of peat on the E. side is believed by geologists 
to be the site of a still older crater , which was afterwards partially 
filled in consequence of an eruption from the crater now occupied 
by the lake. This Maar, unlike the two already mentioned, is well 
stocked with fish and crayfish. At the S. end lies the village of 
Schalkenmehren (Inn very poor), 3y 2 M. from Daun, and the same 
distance from Gillenfeld. 

A road leads from Schalkenmehren , following the direction of 
the Alfbach, but at some distance from the brook, and passing 
through several curiously formed basins , to the villages of Saxler 
and Gillenfeld (1298 ft.) (Caspary; Klasen-Otto). The *Pulver- 
maar (1311 ft.), the most beautiful of these crater lakes after the 
Laacher See (p. 70), 90 acres in area, and 300 ft. deep, lies in 
a picturesque basin fringed with woods on a hill about 1 M. to the 
E. of Gillenfeld. The banks consist of volcanic sand, tufa, and 
scoriae. On the S. side rises the Romersberg (1512 ft.), a consider- 
able rock composed of slag. 

Strohn is situated in the valley of the Alf , M. below Gillenfeld. 
Near it, and extending as far as (1 M.) JSprink, rises the Wartesberg (1542 
ft.) , one of the largest slag-hills of the Eifel , and probably an extinct 
crater, although not now distinguishable as such. The Alfthal from Strohn 
to Sprink , which forms a deep cutting through the lava rocks , is pictu- 
resque , and is sometimes termed the 'Strohn Switzerland'. From the 
houses of Schutzalf, 3| 4 m. below Sprink, paths lead to the E. to the road 
which leads by (4 M.) Hontheim (Inn 'Zum Bad Bertrich') to Bertrich (p. 
131), 2 M. from Hontheim. 

From Gillenfeld to Manderscheid 6 M. The road leads 
by Eckfeld and Buchholz. By making a slight digression from the 
latter, one of the most beautiful points near Manderscheid may be 
visited in passing. Beyond the village stands a finger-post indica- 
ting the road to Manderscheid to the 1. , and a ' Waldweg' to the r. 
Following the latter along the S. margin of the wood, and then 
entering the wood itself, the traveller reaches a clearing termed the 



140 Route 2d. M AND E B s CHEID . 



* Belvedere , which affords a striking view of the castles of Mander- 
scheid rising from the valley below, with the Mosenberg and other 
hills in the background. The footpath which appears to lead direct 
into the valley from this point soon comes to an uid. The traveller 
must therefore return to the finger-post above mentioned in order 
to reach the road leading from Buchholz to Manderscheid. The 
bridge over the Lieser. which is crossed after a descent of 1 M., af- 
fords another very picturesque view. 

From Loan to Manderscheid direct. The road descends the 
valley of the Lieser. passing (p 2 M.) Gemunden (p. 139) and (li| 2 M.) 
Wegevsbach. On the r. side of the valley, farther on. rise lofty and im- 
posing masses of lava , almost entirely encircling the village of (i 1 ^ M.) 
Uedersdorf ', which lies 286 ft. above the Lieser. They are believed to 
have owed their origin partly to a volcano to the S. of Ledersdorf, which 
culminates in the Weberlei (1495 ft.j . a slag hill near the Kyllthal . and 
partly to a volcanic mountain (1748 ft.) rising towards the N,W. The last 
part of the road, after it has quitted the Lieserthal. is uninteresting: 3 31. 
BUtkkausen, 3 M. Manderscheid. 

Manderscheid (1205 ft. ^[Fischer. Zen-?, both tolerable and mod- 
erate), a village of some importance , lies on a lofty plain between 
the Lieser and the Kleine Kyll. On the S. side, in a singularly 
picturesque situation, are two * Castles . perched on jagged slate- 
rocks rising precipitously from the Lieser . the ancient seat of the 
Counts of Manderscheid who became extinct in 1780. 

The Belvedere, mentioned above (a clearing in the wood, visible behind 
the castles), may be reached from Manderscheid in 1 hr. The road de- 
scending into the valley, crossing the Lieser, and ascending through wood 
on the other side . is followed , and the fields at the top are crossed in 
the direction of the church of Buchholz (p. 139). At a ringer-post the path 
turns sharply to the L, skirting, and finally entering the wood. 

The most remarkable volcanic mountain of the Eifel is the AT o- 
senbe rg . with its three peaks . 1 hr. to the W. of Manderscheid. 
the route to which can hardly be mistaken. About 3 / 4 M. from 
Manderscheid. before descending into the valley of the Kleine Kyll, 
the traveller takes the road to the 1. leading to Bettenfeld. the con- 
tinuation of which is seen on the Mosenberg opposite. 

The * Mosenberg (1673 ft. ) is a long lava-mountain extending from 
Ni to S.. with four craters, the lava-walls of which rise fantastically 
to the height of 50 ft. The basalt and slag which form the summit 
have here protruded 250 ft. through the grauwacke. The N. crater, 
formerly rilled with water, was drained in 1846 , and now yields 
peat. The huge lava - stream which has issued from an opening in 
the S. crater may be traced as far as the ( 3 / 4 M.J Horngraben. where 
it reaches the Kleine Kyll. and rises in perpendicular lava -cliffs 
100 ft. in height. The mountain is surrounded with beds of slag 
and scoriae, and is but scantily covered with grass. View very ex- 
tensive, well repaying the ascent. 

On a lofty plain. 1 M. to the W. Of the Mosenberg . lies Bettenfeld 
(Heidt, very poor) whence paths through the wood lead to the village of 
Eisenschmidt (see below) in l 1 ^ hr. (guide necessary). This route is there- 
fore i 1 ^ hr. shorter than that by Xeumiihl which is described below. 

About Ii 2 M. to the N. of the Mosenberg lies the Meerfelder Maar, 



WITTLICH. 



24. Route. 141 



formerly one of the largest of these lakes, now almost entirely drained. 
The scoriEe and volcanic sand of the Mosenberg extend to the heights 
round the Meerfelder Maar, but may easily be distinguished from the vol- 
canic products of the latter, being mingled at one spot only. Meerjeld, 
on the W. side of the Maar, is 3 | 4 M. to the IS. of Bettenfeld, and 3 M. 
to the W. of Manderscheid. 

From the Mosenberg a path to the S. descends into the valley to 
the Neumuhl (3 M.), where the Kleine Kyll falls into the Lieser, 
and here reaches the road which descends in numerous windings 
from (3 M.) Manderscheid. The scenery of the valley here is pictu- 
resque and imposing. The road then winds up the left bank of the 
stream and after 1 M. divides. The road to the r. leads through 
wood to (3 3 / 4 M.) Eisenschmidt and (*/ 2 M.) Schwarzenborn (Ii.n), 
which the diligence from Wittlich to stat. Kyllburg (p. 136) passes 
twice daily. From Schwarzenborn (a mere halting-place , where a 
seat in the diligence cannot always be obtained) to Kyllburg 7 M. 

The branch of the road which at the above mentioned bifurcation 
turns to the 1. soon quits the wood and traverses a bleak and lofty plain. 
At (4 1 j 2 M.) G-ross-Litgen it unites with the Wittlich and Kyllburg road, 
which now leads towards the E. The country becomes more fertile. 
Beyond (2 1 |4 M.) Minder- Litgen (1151 ft.) the road descends into the valley 
in windings , but a footpath i| 2 M. from the village cuts off nearly half 
the circuit of 3 M. which the road describes. 

The *view over the rich plain sloping towards the Moselle, and the 
mountains of the latter , rendered more picturesque by the red sandstone 
which here supersedes the grauwacke , forms a pleasant conclusion to the 
tour. 

Wittlich (511 ft.) (Post; Zum Wolf), a district-town on the Lieser, is 
situated in a fertile tract where tobacco is much cultivated. Diligence 
twice daily to Treves in 4 hrs., to Kyllburg twice in 3 3 j 4 hrs., to Alf once 
in 2 3 j 4 hrs., to Berncastel once in 2 hrs., to Uerzig once in l 1 ^ hr. 

A good road leads from Wittlich to the E. through Bombogen , where 
two basaltic peaks rise from the plain, to (6 M.) Uerzig on the Moselle 
(p. 130), where the steamboat from Treves generally touches about 9 a. m. 
on its way to Coblenz, which it reaches about 5 p. m. 

25. From Coblenz to Wetzlar and Giessen. 

Ems and the Valley of the Lahn. 

Comp. Map, p. 82. 

Railway to Oberlahnstein in i| 4 hr. (fares 12, 8, 5 Sgr.) , to Ems in 
1 hr. (fares 24, 15, 10 Sgr.), to Wetzlar in 3>| 2 hrs. (fares 3 Thlr. 4, 1 
Thlr. 27 , 1 Thlr. 7 Sgr.). Return-ticktes must be stamped at the ticket- 
office before being used for the return journey. 

Steamboat from Coblenz to Oberlahnstein 7 times daily in *f 2 hr., 
fare 5 or 3 Sgr. — Carriage-road and footpath to Ems , see below. Car- 
riages, see p. 142. 

High Road from Ehrenbreitstein to Ems by ^ T iederlahnstein , thence 
ascending the picturesque valley of the Lahn on the r. bank , passing se- 
veral iron-foundries and the village of Fachbaclt, 12 M. (by carr. in 2 hrs.), 
a pleasant drive. — The Footpath from Ehrenbreitstein over the hills 
(by Arzheim 1, linger-post 3 M. farther, Fachbach li( 2 , thence to Ems l 1 ^ M.) 
may be found without a guide. 

At the Coblenz station the train quits the Left - Rhenish line, 
and passing the Lohr-Thor and Mainzer Thor (p. 77) crosses the 
Rhine. From the railway-bridge a pleasing glimpse of the town, 
the palace, and Ehrenbreitstein is obtained to the 1. Passing Pfafi 



142 Route 25. 



EMS. 



Prom Cobienz 



fendorf (^opposite the island of Oberwerth) , and occasionally stop- 
ping at Horchheim and Niederlahnstein , the train crosses the Lahn, 
opposite the beautifully situated castle of Stolzenfels . and reaches 
Oberlahnstein (p. 82; * Rail. Restaurant), where carriages are 
changed. To Riidesheim and Wiesbaden, see R. 30. 

The train now skirts the wooded hill on which the castle of 
Lahneck (p. 82) stands, and winds up the valley of the Lahn, where 
there are several extensive foundries. 

Ems. Hotels. *Englischer Hof, at the lower end; *Kurhaus ; 
Russischer Hof, in the centre of the town. -*\Four Seasons, and Euro- 
paisohjsb Hof, near the Cursaal ; Dariistadter Hof and *Schloss Lang- 
enau , both near the Cursaal : Hotel de Flandre ; Guttenberger Hof 
and Hotel de France, both near the station, on the 1. bank of the Lahn. 
Hotel G-cedecke, Goldene Traube , both less expensive than the above. 
Alte Post ; Braunschweiger Hof : Raisin. Besides these hotels there are 
numerous lodging-houses: Panorama, Pariser Hof, Prince of Wales. 
Stadt London, <fcc. on the 1. bank of the river. Some of the more remote 
houses are much less expensive, and equally comfortable; board and lodg- 
ing l 1 ].;— 2 Thlr. a day and upwards. — Those who contemplate a prolong- 
ed stay should procure a written contract, as otherwise they will be liable 
to be compelled to quit their apartments on 24 hrs. notice. — Beer in the 
garden of the Kurhaus, at the Lowe, Goldene Fass, &c. 

Donkeys per hour 13 Sgr. •, to the Oberlahnstein Forsthaus direct (and 
back including a stay of 1 hr.) 22, or by the Mahlbergshof 26 Sgr., by 
yievern 1 Thlr. : to the Sporkenburg 25; Kemmenauer Hohe 25; Moostiutte 
9 L summit of the same IT Sgr. ; by the new promenade to the Lindenbach 
15-, to the 'Schone Aussicht' on the Cobienz road 24 Sgr. — All these 
charges include the return-route. 

Donkey-carriages, with one donkey IT Sgr., with two 25 Sgr. per hour. 
A drive within the precints of the town 6 , after 9 p. m. 12 Sgr. ; drive 
home from theatre , ball , fee. 20 Sgr. To Lahnstein and back 1 Thlr. 10 
Sgr., two-donkev 2 Thlr.; to Ehrenbreitstein 1 Thlr. 25, and back 2 Thlr. 
15 Sgr., two-donkev 2 Thlr. 20, or 3 Thlr. 15 Sgr. ; to Cobienz 2 Thlr. 5. and 
back 2 Thlr. 25, two-donkey 3 Thlr. or 4 Thlr. : to Nassau and back, 1 Thlr. 
10 Sgr., two-donkey 2 Thlr. — One-horse carr . same as carr. with two 
donkeys, two-horse about ^th more. The drivers must exhibit their tariff 
when desire d. 

Tariffs of the charges , fares , fees , &c. at Ems may be purchased for 
2 Sgr. — A tax of 3 Thlr/ is levied on each single patient after a stay of 
a week : a family of 2 pers. pays 4, of 3 pers. 5 Thlr. — The charges for 
baths vary in the different houses ; those at the Kurhaus cost from 7 Sgr. 
to 1 Thlr. 

English Church Service in the English Chapel on the 1. bank. 

Ems (221 ft.) was known to the Romans , as the vases , coins, 
etc., found in the vicinity, prove . and is mentioned in a document 
of 1354 as a warm bath. It is now frequented by upwards of 
15,000 visitors annually, while in 1823 the number was 1200 only. 
From 1803 to 1866 it belonged to the Duchy of Nassau , and is 
now Prussian. It is a curious fact , showing to what an extent 
Germany was formerly subdivided , that from the bridge over the 
Lahn , which commands but a limited view . the dominions of 
8 different independent princes could be seen. 

The town (5458 inhab., 1/3 Rom. Oath.) is prettily situated on 
both banks of the Lahn in a somewhat narrow valley . enclosed by 
wooded and vine-clad rocky heights. It formerly consisted solely of 



to Wetzlaf. 



EMS. 



25. Route. 143 



a street of lodging-houses on the r. bank of the river, but has been 
greatly improved of late years. A new quarter, embellished with 
tastefully laid out grounds, has gradually sprung up on thel.bank. 
A number of handsome streets and buildings have been erected 
between the railway-station and the Lahn , and among them the 
new Bath-house (see below), while the grounds in the environs are 
sprinkled with attractive villas. Among the plantations at the back 
of the English Church, higher up the hill, is the Schweizer Haus, a 
cafe' with pleasing view. On the wooded summit of the Mahlbergs- 
Kopf stands a tower , much resorted to for the view (comprising 
Stolzenfels), and reached by pleasant shady walks. Way back by 
the Lindenbach (*Inn), past some silver works, and re-entering the 
valley of the Lahn ll/ 2 M - below Ems. 

The principal buildings are the Bath - Establishment with the 
four towers , at the lower end of the town , and the old Curhaus, 
connected by an elegant open colonnade (bazaar) with the Cursaal, 
which contains ball, supper, and reading-rooms. Gambling is now 
prohibited. The New Bath-house on the 1. bank of the Lahn forms 
a large square, divided by a building in the centre , and enclosing 
two courts with gardens. Jt contains two fountains of mineral-water, 
baths more comfortably fitted up than those of the old Curhaus, and 
an inhaling-apparatus. An iron bridge connects this establishment 
with the walks on the r. bank. 

The principal springs (water dispensed gratuitously, attendant's 
fee 3 Sgr. per week), which are most beneficial in female and pul- 
monary complaints, are the Kesselbrunnen (117°Fahr.), the Krahn- 
chen(76 — 80°), and the Fiirstenbrunnen (93 — 95°), all enclosed with- 
in the hall of the old Curhaus. The chief ingredients are bi-carbo- 
nate of soda and chloride of sodium. About 350,000 bottles are 
exported annually. Height of the season from the middle of July 
to the end of August. From 6 to 8 p. m. the grounds of the Cur- 
haus are thronged by a fashionable crowd , who assemble at the 
same hours in the morning to drink the waters. 

On the E. side of Ems the *Bdderlei , a rugged group of slate 
rocks, rises precipitously above the street (ascent by the old Cur- 
haus). To the r. on the way up are the Hanselmann 's Caves , re- 
sembling small casemates and embrasures penetrating the grau- 
wackian strata (origin unknown). Fine view from the Pavilion half- 
way up ; still more extensive from the Concordia Tower at the top. 

The *Kemmenauer Hbhe, ascended in l 1 ^ hr. from Ems, one of the lof- 
tiest points on the N. side of the Lahn (restaurant at the top), commands 
an extensive and beautiful view of the valley of the Rhine, the Eifel Mis., 
<fec. ; in the foreground, at the spectator's feet, lies the picturesque SporTcen- 
burg , to the r. rise the two remarkable Trachyte-peaks of Arzbach. An 
equally fine view towards the E., comprising the entire district of Nassau 
as far as the Taunus, may be enjoyed about 1 M. to the N. of the village 
of Kemmenau, from an open space on the road to Montabaur, recognisable 
by a large solitary beech-tree. 

The nearer peak of the Winterberg (on the 1. bank of the Lahn , to 



144 Route 25. 



NASSAU. 



From Coblenz 



the E. of the Mahlbergskopf . ascended in 1 2 hr. from Ems) commands a 
fine survey of the Lahnthal. &c. : a Roman watch-tower and remnants of 
an intrenchment were discovered on the summit in 1859. 



Railway to Gi es $ en. Leaving Ems, the train passes JDau- 
sejiau. with an ancient octagonal tower belonging to the ancient for- 
tifications of the valley. Near stat. Nassau the Lahn is crossed by 
an iron bridge. 

Nassau (Krone), a smalltown prettily situated, on the r. bank 
of the Lahn. which is here crossed by a suspension-bridge, was the 
birthplace of the celebrated Prussian minister Baron Stein (d. 
1831). Above the entrance of his residence are the arms of the 
family and the well-known words of Luther : 'Eine feste Burg ist 
miser Gott' (our God is a sure stronghold). The library contains 
portraits of Luther. Frederick the Great. Blucher. etc. In the upper 
rooms are preserved commemorative tablets on which the most 
eventful days of the years 1812—15 ("war of independence') are 
recorded in gilt letters. The tower . replete with reminiscences of 
its former owner, may also be visited (fee 5 Sgr.). The property 
now belongs to the family of Count Kielmannsegge . son-in-law of 
the minister. 

The remains of the minister are interred in the family-vault at Friicht, 
a village on the 1. bank of the Lahn, on the hill between Braubach and 
Ems. The key is kept by the forester (fee 5, for a party 15 Sgr.). The 
plea^ante-t route from Ems to Friicht is by ('2 1 4 M.) Mielen , a village on 
the 1. bank of the Lahn . whence a good, path ascends the picturesque 
Schweizerthal , with its beautiful woods and rocks, to (1 M.) Friicht. 
The latter lies about 1 M. to the X. of the road from Ems to Braubach 
mentioned at p. S4. 

To the W. of Nassau . on the road to Ems , is situated Haupt's 
Hydropathic Establishment on the 1. . and a new hospital on the r. 

On the opposite bank of the Lahn rises a wooded eminence, 
crowned by the ruined Castle of Xassau (fine view from the 
tower), the ancient seat of the House of Nassau, erected about 1100. 
Lower down on the same hill are the ruins of Burg Stein hr. 
from the suspension-bridge). The projecting rock in front of it 
bears a * Monument to Stein . consisting of a statue in marble over 
life-size, by Pfuhl of Berlin, beneath a Gothic canopy of red sand- 
stone, 66 ft. in height, inaugurated in 1872. The terrace commands 
a beautiful survey of the valley of the Lahn. 

The Road to Wiesbaden passes at the foot of this hill, then enters 
a beautiful vallev . after which it crosses the monotonous highland to 
Sclacalbach (p. 166) and Wiesbaden (p. 156). 

Beyond Xassau the railway follows the r. bank of the Lahn. and 
is soon carried through a series of tunnels. Beyond the second, a 
glimpse is obtained on the r. of Burg Langenau . built in 1244, 
the ancient seat of an Austrian family, the Rhenish branch of which 
became extinct in 1603. The watch-tower and external walls are 
well preserved; within the latter a modern dwelling-house has been 
erected. On the opposite bank rises the monastery of Arnstein. with 



to Wetzlar. 



DIETZ. 



25. Route. 145 



church (in the transition style , 14th cent.) and other buildings, 
picturesquely situated on a wooded eminence. The castle, which is 
of very ancient origin, was converted by the last Count of Arnstein 
into a Praemonstratensian monastery in 1139 (suppressed in 1803). 
Near Obernhof , where several trains stop in summer , are lead and 
silver-mines, worked by an English company. The monastery of 
Arnstein is 3 /4 M., the castle of Langenau 1 M. distant from this 
point. 

The line now passes through a long tunnel, and skirts the village 
of Kalkofen. Then a long curve. High up , on the slopes of the 1. 
bank, is situated the L Alte Haus\ a solitary fragment of wall belong- 
ing to the old nunnery of Brunnenburg. Stat. Laurenburg, with 
a small chateau and ruined castle, once a residence of the Counts of 
Nassau. 

Before the church is reached, a road to the 1. ascends to (l 1 ^ M.) Scheid, 
and about^ min. farther again leaves the main road and descends to the 
1. to (1 M.) Greilnau on the Lahn. The river describes a circuit of many 
miles between Laurenburg and Geilnau , which this route cuts off. The 
mineral spring of Geilnau is ] |2 M. above the village; the water is export- 
ed, but not resorted to by patients in person. The valley between Geilnau 
and the (2^4 M.) ferry of Balduinstein is very picturesque. 

Beyond the Cramberg Tunnel the train stops at stat. Balduin- 
stein (Noll) ; the imposing ruins of the castle of that name rise in 
a narrow ravine behind the village. On the r. , a little farther on, 
the loftily situated castle of * Schaumburg (915 ft. ; * inn) overlooks 
the valley from a wooded basaltic peak. It was once the seat of the 
princes of Anhalt-Schaumburg, and subsequently that of Archduke 
Stephen (d. 1867), grandson of the last prince (d. 1812); it is now 
the property of Duke George of Oldenburg. The chateau was built 
in the 18th cent. ; the handsome modern part, in the English Gothic 
style, was erected for Archduke Stephen by the architect Boos of 
Wiesbaden. Fine view from the tower. The * Collection of Minerals, 
occupying the ground- floor of the modern part of the chateau , is 
worthy of notice. The hothouses are stocked with many rare plants. 
The footpath from Balduinstein to Schaumburg is somewhat steep ; 
by the carriage-road (1 M.) the ascent is gradual. 

Stat. Fachingen (Inn) derives importance from its mineral 
spring, from which 300,000 bottles are annually exported. The pro- 
cess of filling and corking is interesting. 

Dietz (334 ft.) (* Holldndischer Hof; * Hotel Lorenz) is a thriv- 
ing town, picturesquely situated on the Lahn , and overlooked by 
an old castle of the Counts of Nassau -Diez , now a house of correc- 
tion. The prisoners cut and polish ornaments in marble (quarried 
in the neighbourhood), which may be purchased in great variety at 
Chelius's in the Rosenstrasse. The Bridge across the Lahn is sup- 
ported by pillars erected on two others which lie unbroken in the 
bed of the river. 

On the 1. bank, 1 M. from Dietz , and connected with it by a 
beautiful avenue of limes, is Sehloss Oranienstein, erected in 1676, 
B^deker's, Rhine. 5th Edit. j[Q 



146 Route 25. 



LD1BURG. 



formerly the property of the Duke of Nassau . and now a Prussian 
military school. It was once occupied "by Prince William Y. of Ora- 
nien-Nassau, the exiled stadtholder of the republic of Holland, and 
great-grandfather of the present king. 

From Dietz to Zollhaus railway in 25 min. The line ascends the 
pretty valley of the Aar, which falls into the Lahn at Dietz. To the 1., 
near the first stat. Flacht, stands the ruin of Ardeck. Stations Obemeisen\ 
Hahnstcitten , Zollhaus. Pleasant excursions may he made from the two 
latter to the ruined castles of Hohenfds and Burg Sc?>walbach. A good road 
leads in the valley of the Aar from Zollhaus to Hohenstein , Adolphsecl, 
and (12 M.) Schwalbach (p. 166). 

Limburg (*Preussischer Hof, near the post - office ; * Xassauer 
Hof and Deutsches Haus near the bridge) on the Lahn . which is 
crossed here by a bridge constructed in 1315. possesses a loftily situ- 
ated * Cathedral, with seven towers, the 'Basilica St. Georgii Mar- 
ty ris erecta 909' , as the inscription above the portal records. The 
present structure , the cathedral of the bishop . a remarkably fine 
example of the transition style, dates from 1235. It contains a very 
ancient font, and in the N. transept a monument to the Emp. Con- 
rad I. (d. 918). the founder of the original building, whose remains 
were interred in the monastery church ofFulda. The valuable treas- 
ury of the cathedral . preserved in the chapter-house . is worthy of 
inspection. 

From Limburg to Had a mar by a branch-line in 20 min. (fares 
7, 4, 2 3 |4 Sgr.). Hadamar Xassauer Hof; Ross; Krone) is a pleasant little 
town with an ancient castle. About 6 M. to the X. is situated the Bom- 
burg (1298 ft.), in the interior of which there is a considerable field of ice 
remaining unmelted throughout the summer (on the S. side of the hill : 
comp. p. 71, Xiedermendig). 

Beyond Limburg the banks of the Lahn become less abrupt for 
a short distance. To the 1. lies Dietkirchen , with the oldest church 
in the Duchy, situated on a rocky eminence rising precipitously 
from the river. Stat. Eschhofen ; then 

Runkel ( Weinberg ; Wied'scher Hof) , an ancient town situated 
on both banks of the Lahn, with an extensive old castle of the 
princes of Wied, still partially habitable. ISear stat. Yillmar are 
considerable marble quarries ; then Aumenau, with ironstone mines 
and slate quarries. After a succession of tunnels, bridges, and via- 
ducts, the train reaches 

Weilburg (*Beutsches Haus; *Traube) , the residence of the 
Dukes of Nassau-Weilburg down to 1816. Their chateau, erected 
in 1721, picturesquely situated on a rocky eminence, and still kept 
in a habitable condition, is worthy of a visit. To the S. is the en- 
trance to the pretty Weilihal. 

Next stations Lbhnberg . Stockhausen . Braunfels (residence of 
of the prince of Solms-Braunfels ; the small town lies on the hill to 
the S. ). and Albshausen. 

Wetzlar ami Giessen. see R. 8. 



147 



26. Frankfort. 

Railway Stations. For Giessen (Cassel , Berlin) , Homburg , Mayence 
(Wiesbaden), Darmstadt, and Offenbach, on the W. side of the town (PL 
B, 5); to Fulda (Bebra, Leipsic) , on the E. side ((PI. K, 3). These two 
stations are connected by a junction line, which is also employed for pas- 
senger traffic. 

Hotels. *H6tel de Russie (PI. a) , and *Roman Emperor (PI. b) , in 
the Zeil; *Hotel d'Angleterre (PL c) in the Rossmarkt, R. from l 1 ^ fL, 
L. 24, B. 42 kr., D. li| 2 fL, A. 30 kr. ; Hotel du Nord (PL d) ; Schwan 
(PL f ) ; Hotel de l'Union (PL g), similar charges. — Outside the town, 
between the Taunus and the Main-Weser stations, Westendhall, R. from 
li| 2 fl., L. 36, B. 42, D. P\ 2 fl. , A. 24 kr. — Hollandischer Hof (PL h), 
in the Goethe-Platz , also a restaurant ; *Landsberg (PL i) on the Lieb- 
frauenberg. — Pariser Hof (PL k) in the Parade-Platz ; Victoria (PL 1), 
Allerheiligen-Str. ; *Brusseler Hof (PL m) , Grosse Gallengasse ; Wurt- 
temb. Hof (PL n); *H6tel Drexel (PL o) ; Hotel Petersburg^ all these 
of the second class. — Augsburger Hof ; Gruner Baum, Grosse Fischer- 
gasse , well spoken of ; *Stadt Darmstadt , Grosse Fischergasse ; Main- 
hotel ; these last unpretending. 

Restaurants. Stift, by the cathedral ; Bbhm, Welb, both in the Korn- 
markt; *Schultzendorf , in the Rossmarkt. Cafe Holland (see above); Re- 
staurants in the Zoological Garden and Palm Garden. — ■ Cafes. Milani, 
next door to the theatre; Parrot, next to the post-office; Germania, 
Rossmarkt; Bourse, Paulsplatz , opposite the Exchange; Miiller , in the 
Zeil; Goldschmidt, Bornheimer and Allerheiligen-Str., well supplied with 
newspapers. — Confectioners. Roder, opposite Goethe's Monument, good 
ices ; Biitschli, Kleiner Hirschgraben 8 ; Knecht, next to St. PauLs Ch. ; de 
Giorgi; Rahnstadt, near the theatre. — Seer. *Alemannia, Schiller-Platz 4 
(room for ladies) ; ^Bavaria , well fitted up , with a garden , and *Cafe 
Neuf, both in the Schiller-Platz; Teutonia, Paulsplatz ; %Eysen , adjoining 
the Main Weser Station. — Schwager , on the Roderberg^ by the Hanau 
station, with view of the valley of the Main and Offenbach. Restaurant 
on the Sachsenhauser Berg, with view of Frankfort and the Taunus. 

Newspapers in the Burgerverein (p. 153). 

Theatre (PL 54), performances almost daily. 

Omnibus from the station into the town 12 kr., each box 6 kr. : From 
the town to the station 6 kr. without luggage , 12 kr. with ordinary lug 
gage, each additional box 6 kr. — Omnibuses in the town 4 kr. , on Sun- 
days 6 kr. 

Fiacres from the station to the town 1 — 2 pers. 24, 3 pers. 30, 4 pers. 
36 kr. — In the town 1—2 pers. 18, 3 pers. 24, 4 pers. 30 kr. — By time, 
for 10 min. 12 kr., and so on according to tariff. N.B. Unnumbered ve- 
hicles have no fixed tariff. 

Post-Office (PL 47), in the Zeil, at the corner of the Schiller-Platz. 

Telegraph-Office (PL g) at the Exchange. 

Valets de Place 1 3 | 4 — 3 fl. per diem. 

Shops, best in the Zeil. Bohler , Zeil 54, ornaments of carved stag's 
horn. Ihlee, Zeil 63, small bronze objects (Ariadne). Antonio Vanni, Krug- 
gasse 8 , casts from sculptures. Haase and Prossler, crystal wares. Jos. 
Milani, Bleiden - Str. 6 , and Sartorio , Grosser Kornmarkt, fruit-merchants. 
Albert's, Zeil 36, and Beisenherz, at the Englische Hof, toys. 

Baths. Warm at GreVs , Leonhardsthor , and at AIVs , Alte Mainzer 
Gasse, 48 kr. Cold at the Untermainthor 12 kr. ; also Swimming -Baths, 12 
— 16 kr. — Public Baths at Sachsenhausen, on the 1. bank of the Main. 

English Church Service in the French Church in the Goetheplatz, and 
in the Lutheran Weisse Frauenkirche. 

Collections and Exhibitions : 
*Ariadneum (p. 152), or Bethmann's Museum, daily 10 — 1; fee 18 — 24 kr. ; 

Sundays gratis. 
Exchange (p. 150), 12—2. 30. 
^Exhibition of the Art-Union (PL 42), Junghof-Str. 8; adm. 9—6 o'clock, 

30 kr. 



10* 



148 Route 26. 



FRANKFORT. 



History. 



*Kaisersaal . in the Romer (p. 149). open from the beginning of May till 
the end of Sept. on 3Iond. . Wed. . Frid. 11 — 1 : from October to the 
end of April on Mond. and Wed. only: 12 — 24 kr. for one or more per- 
sons). Visitors knock or ring. 
Palm Garden (p. 155). adm. 30 kr., concerts in the afternoon. 
Picture Gallery at the Saalhof (p. 150), Mond., Wed.. Frid.. 11—1, gratis; at 

other times on payment of a fee. 
SSenckenherg XaJural 'History Society (p. 153); collections open Wed. 3 — 4. 

Frid. and Sund. 11 — 1 gratis; at other times fee 24 kr. 
^Stddel Gallery (p. 153). daily (except Sund.) 10—1 gratis: at other times 
fee 30 kr. 

Town-Library (_p. 151). Mond. to Frid. 9—1. Wed. also 3—5. 

Zoological Garden (p. 155): adm. 30 kr. : concert on Wed.. Sat.. Sund. 
Principal Attractions: Stadel Gallery (p. 153), Kaisersaal (p. 149). 
Dannecker's Ariadne (p. 152) . monuments of Goethe (p. 149) . Gutenberg 
(p. 149). and Schiller (p. 152), walk through the Zeil to the bridge over 
the 3Iain. the Palm Garden (p. 155). 

Frankfort on the Main, with 90.922 inhab. (including a gar- 
rison of 3000 soldiers. 20.000 Rom. Cath.. and 8000 Jewsj." former- 
ly a free town of the Empire, and down to 1866 one of the free 
towns of the German Confederation and the seat of the Diet . now 
belongs to Prussia. Old watch-towers in the vicinity indicate the ex- 
tent of the ancient city. It is situated in a spacious plain bounded 
by mountains, on th^ r. bank of the Main . which is navigable for 
vessels of considerahle size. 

On the 1. bank of the river lies Sachsenhausen , a suburb con- 
nected with Frankfurt by a stone bridge, and by an iron suspension 
bridge. In a commercial point of view . and particularly owing to 
the great financial transactions which take place here , Frankfort 
is one of the most important cities in Germany. 

The old part of the town consists of narrow and uninviting 
streets, hut the Zeil, the Mainzer-Str. . Taunus-Str.. and the quays 
on the Main boast of many handsome modern buildings. The town 
is surrounded by 'Anlagen' . or public grounds . where many taste- 
fully built residences are situated. The air of wealth and impor- 
tance which pervades the city affords an index of the success and 
extent of its commercial relations. 

Frankfort dates from the time of Charlemagne. In 794 that emperor 
held a convocation of bishops and dignitaries of the empire in the royal 
residence ' Franconofurf (ford of the Franks). Louis the Pious granted 
The town certain privileges in 822, and from the time of Louis the German, 
who frequently resided at Frankfort, it gradually rose to importance. In 
1240 Frederick II. sanctioned the Autumn Fair. Under Lewis the Bava- 
rian , who conferred on the town the freedom of the empire and many 
other privileges , Frankfort was again much extended and almost reached 
the present limits of the inner city. By the Golden Bull of Charles IV., 
Frankfort was destined in 1356 to be the Toicn of Election of the German 
Empire, and the majority of the emperors were chosen here. On the dis- 
solution of the Empire in 1806, Frankfort, with Aschaffenburg . Hanau, 
Fulda, and Wetzlar. was made over a* a Grand-duchy to Carl von Dalberg, 
Primate of the Rhenish Confederation . and previously Archbishop of 
Mayence. From 1814—66 it was one of the four free cities of the German 
Confederation, and in 1866 was taken by the Prussians. 

On entering the town from the railway - station on the W. side, 
the first object which arrests the eye is the * Monument of Guten- 



Romer. 



FRANKFORT. 26. Route. 149 



berg (PI. 22), erected in 1858, a galvano-plastic group on a sand- 
stone pedestal, executed by Ed. v. d. Launitz. The central figure 
with the types in the 1. hand is Gutenberg , on his r. Fust , on his 
1. Schoffer. On the frieze are portrait-heads of thirteen celebrated 
printers, with Caxton among them. In the four niches beneath are 
the arms of the four towns where printing was first practised, Mainz, 
Frankfort, Venice, Strassburg. On four separate pedestals are Theo- 
logy, Poetry, Natural Science, and Industry. The heads of four ani- 
mals, which serve as water-spouts, indicate the four quarters of the 
globe and the universal diffusion of the invention. In the neigh- 
bouring Junghof - Strasse is the * Permanent Exhibition of Art 
(see p. 147). 

The Goethe - Platz , which adjoins the Rossmarkt on the N., is 
embellished with Schwanthaler's * Monument of Goethe (PI. 20), 
erected in 1844. The poet holds a wreath of laurel in his left hand. 
The reliefs on the pedestal are illustrative of his literary life. In 
front (S. side) are represented Natural Science, Dramatic and Lyric 
Poetry; on the E. side Orestes and Thoas (Iphigenia), Faust and 
Mephistopheles ; on the N. side (r.) Gotz von Berlichingen, Egmont, 
and Tasso, (1.) the Bride of Corinth, the god and the bayadere, Pro- 
metheus, and the Erl-king with the child • on the W. side (r.) 
Mignon with Wilhelm Meister and the harper, (1.) Hermann and 
Dorothea. 

The house in which Goethe was born (PI. 28), in the Hirschgra- 
ben, near the Rossmarkt , bears an inscription recording the birth 
of the poet on 28th August, 1749. The arms over the door, consis- 
ting of three lyres placed obliquely and a star, were chosen by Goe- 
the's father on his marriage with the daughter of the senator Textor, 
from their resemblance to a horse-shoe , the grandfather of the poet 
having been a farrier. In the attics facing the court the poet lived in 
1773 — 75, and wrote his 'Gotz' and 'Werther' ; they were also the 
scene of the adventures which render his biography so interesting. 
The house has been purchased by a society ('Deutsches Hochsti ff ) , and 
is suitably restored. Admission 36 kr., on Wed. 2 — 4 gratis. 

The * Eomer (PI. 48) is historically the most interesting edifice 
at Frankfort. It was purchased by the city for a town-hall in 1405. 
The lower part is a depot for merchandise during the lairs. On the 
first floor is the * Kaisersaal (Imperial Hall), where the new emper- 
or dined with the electors and showed himself from the balcony to 
the people assembled on the Romerberg. It was restored in 1840 
and embellished with portraits of the emperors, presented by Ger- 
man princes, art associations, and private individuals. 

From the Kaisersaal the visitor is conducted to the Wahlzimmer 
(election-room), where the emperors were chosen by the electors, 
and which has been left in its original condition. The senate for- 
merly held its meetings here. The allegorical and burlesque decora- 



150 Route -26. 



FRANKFORT. 



Exchange. 



tions of the ceiling, as well as the internal arrangement , date from 
1740. 

One of the chief objects of interest in the Archives is the cele- 
brated -Golden Bull' oftheEmp. Charles IV., promulgated at Nurem- 
berg in 1356, by which the election of the emperors and the atten- 
dant ceremonies were regulated. It derives its name from the small 
golden casket which encloses the seal. 

The Romerberg. or market-place in front of the Romer , which 
down to the end of last century no Jew was permitted to enter, was 
the scene of those public rejoicings on the occasion of the election 
of an emperor which Goethe so graphically describes in his auto- 
biography. 

Behind the Romer is the Church of St. Paul (PI. 39), a circular 
building completed in 1833 in the modern Roman style. It was em- 
ployed in 1848 — 49 for the meetings of the "German National As- 
sembly for remodelling the Constitution' . but was again fitted up 
as a place of worship in 1852. 

Opposite this church is the Borse. or Exchange ( PI. 9) , erected 
in 1844, constructed of grey sandstone with intermediate layers of 
red. Statues of Hope and Prudence adorn theE. side. Those on the 
W. are emblematical of Commerce by sea and by land, and between 
them are represented America, Australia. Europe, Asia, and Africa. 
The *HaU is in the ancient Indian style. From eight black marble 
pillars radiate white fan-like roofs , ornamented with bas-reliefs, 
and terminating in gilded rosettes. Business hours 12 — 2 o'clock. 

The S. side of the Romerberg is bounded by the Gothic Nicolai- 
kirche (PI. 38). a small, elegant structure of the 13th cent., restored 
in 1847. The altar-piece by Rethel represents the Resurrection. 

A short way to the S. of the Romerberg is the Saalhof (PI. 50), 
a gloomy looking building of 1717. situated on the Main, the old 
chapel of which is said once to have belonged to a palace of the Car- 
lovingian kings. The building now contains the Municipal Picture 
Gallery, a collection consisting entirely of gifts and bequests made 
to the city (open to the public Mond.. Wed., Frid.. 11 — 1 o'clock ; 
at other times on payment of a fee). 

Koom I.: Pictures by Van Duck, Tenters , Berghem , Ruben*, Van de 
Vtlde, Breughel, Van der Xeer, Ger. Dote, £c. — Rooms II. and III. con- 
tain old views of Frankfort . among which is one of the interior of the 
interior of the Cathedral before the hre (see below) 5 98. Holy Family, by 
Cornelius. — Room IV. contains the Prehn Cabinet, which consists of 855 
miniatures, one of which, representing Christ in the Garden, is by the 
early Cologne master Stephen. — Room V. : Masters of various schools : 
Breughel, Courtin , Sandrart, De Fries, Schbnberger , Elzheimer , Dietrich, 
Hamilton, etc. — Room VI.: Early German School: 279. Lucas Cranach. 
Luther; 280. Cranach, Catharine Bora: pictures by Hans Culmbach, Wohl- 
gemuth, Martin Schon , Gninticald , and Diirer (two portraits) 5 also an old 
copy of an altar-piece by Diirer which wag destroyed by fire in 1673. , 

On the Main, a little lower down, is situated the Rom. Cath. 
Church of St. Leonhard (PL 36} begun in 1217 . with Gothic choir 
of 1434. and restored in 1808. On the tower is seen the imperial 



Cathedral. 



FRANKFORT. 



26. Route. 151 



eagle, bestowed by Lewis the Bavarian in acknowledgment of ser- 
vices rendered to him in defiance of the papal ban. In the chapel ad- 
joining the choir on the r. is an altar-piece representing the liber- 
ation of St. Leonhard, painted in 1813 , and presented by Carl von 
D alb erg. 

Returning to the Romerberg and proceeding towards the E. the 
traveller soon reaches the Rom. Oath. Cathedral [St. Bartholomew, 
PI. 33), founded in 1238; the choir was erected in 1315—18, the 
tower (260 ft.), still unfinished, in 1512. The interior, which was 
almost entirely destroyed by a fire in 1867, is at present under- 
going restoration and is not accessible to visitors. 

By the wall, to the r. of the 1ST. entrance, are tombstones of the Holz- 
hausen and Sachsenhausen families, of the 14th cent. The chapel adjoin- 
ing the choir on the 1. contains a group of the Death of Mary , sculp- 
tured in stone in the 14th cent., and provided with a Gothic canopy in 1856. 
— At the high-altar the coronation of the emperors used to be solemnis- 
ed by the Elector of Mayence. To the r. is the WaJilkapelle (election 
chapel) , where the electors held their final deliberation ; at the entrance 
stands the beautiful monument of the German king Giinther von Schwarz- 
burg, who died in 1349 at Frankfort, where he had taken refuge from his 
opponent Charles IV. The armorial bearings around it belong to the fam- 
ilies who erected the monument. The original inscription is in old Ger- 
man , the new one in Latin. The mural paintings of 1427 , renovated in 
1856, are historically interesting. — In the chapel adjoining the choir on 
the r. is a Sepulchre with the sleeping watchmen beneath , of the 13th 
cent. 

On a corner-house opposite the E. side of the cathedral is an 
old stone effigy of Luther with inscription. The great Reformer is 
said to have addressed the people from this house, when on his jour- 
ney to Worms (p. 226). 

The other churches contain no objects of interest. 

To the S. E. of the cathedral is the handsome old Bridge over 
the Main, constructed in 1342. The railroad under the first arch 
connects the E. and W. railway stations. The middle of the bridge 
is embellished with a Statue of Charlemagne, erected in 1843. Near 
it is a cock, perched on an iron pole. According to tradition , the 
architect vowed that the first living being which crossed the bridge 
should be sacrificed to the devil, and a cock became the victim. On 
the restoration of the bridge in 1740, the W. parapet on the Sachsen- 
hausen side was adorned with grotesque sculptures, representing two 
artillerymen loading a gun, and beyond them the river-god Mcenus. 

Beyond the bridge lies the suburb of Sachsenhausen (p. 148), 
said to have been founded by Charlemagne, and assigned by him as 
a residence to the conquered Saxons , from whom it derives its 
name. To the 1., on the Main, is the Deutsch-Ordenshaus (PI. 26), 
or House of the Teutonic Order, erected in 1709 , with the church. 

On the r. bank of the Main is a row of large houses , termed 
"Zar Schbnen A:ussicht\ at the upper end of which is the Town Li- 
brary (PI. 8; adm. see p. 148) with the inscription, 'Studiis liber- 
tati reddita civitas\ The entrance-hall contains a * marble statue of 
Goethe, by P. Marchesi of Milan (1838), presented by three citizens 



152 Route 26. FRANKFORT. Judengasse. 



of Frankfort. The library (72,000 vols.) in the upper rooms con- 
tains many literary curiosities, as well as Egyptian . Greek, Roman, 
and German antiquities. 

The Judengasse (PL G. 3. 4). or -Jews' Street', with its dingy 
and antiquated houses, numerous passages , and broker's shops, is 
rapidly losing its peculiarities, half the street having already been 
demolished to make way for modern buildings. A number of Jews 
settled at Frankfort as early as the 12th cent., but their houses were 
burned down in 1349 by the 'Flagellantes' , or 'scourging friars'. 
The Judengasse of the present day was founded in 1462, and down 
to 1806 the whole community lived here. In the evening, and on 
Sundays and holidays , this street was closed with gates , and no 
Jew might venture into any part of the town under a heavy penalty. 
In spite of this tyranny, many denizens of these unwholesome pur- 
lieus flourished , and among them the now enormously opulent 
Rothschild family, who originally resided at No. 148. Their of rices 
are now in a corner-house between the Zeil and the Judengasse, 
not far from the beautiful new Synagogue (PI. 53), built in 1855 in 
the Oriental style. 

In the vicinity is the Jewish Burial Ground (PI. G, H,4) , and 
the Jewish Hospital (PI. 31) founded by the Rothschilds in 1830. 

To the N. W. of the new synagogue is the *Zeil, the finest 
street in Frankfort, consisting chiefly of attractive shops, bounded at 
the W. end by the Hauptwache, or guard-house (PI. 30), and at the 
E. by the Police-Station (PI. 17). Opposite the former is the Church 
of St. Catherine from the tower of which a good survey of the town, 
the Taunus, etc. may be enjoyed. 

The Schiller (formerly Parade) Platz , behind the Hauptwache, 
is adorned with a Monument of Schiller f PI. 24). in bronze, erected in 
1864. 

Opposite the Police-station, to the N.W, , is the Schdfergasse, 
in which the Old Cemetery (PI. F, 2) is situated , where the tomb- 
stone of Goethe's mother may be seen (to the r. on entering), as well 
as those of many other eminent persons. 

Outside the Friedberger Thor stands the * Hessian Monument 
(PI. 23), erected by Frederick William II. of Prussia 'to the brave 
Hessians who fell victorious on this spot, 2nd Dec. 1792, righting 
for their Fatherland.' It consists of masses of rock , bearing a pillar 
surmounted by a helmet , sword, and ram's head, the latter emblem- 
atical of the attack made by the Hessians on Frankfort , then occu- 
pied by the French under (Justine. 

On the opposite side of the Friedberg road is the *Ariadneum, 
or Bethmanns Museum (PI. 7; adm. see p. 148). a circular build- 
ing containing TJannecker's exquisite group of * Ariadne on the pan- 
ther, the sculptor's master-piece. The casts of Achilles, Silenus with 
the young Bacchus. Germanicus. the Gladiator, Laocoon, Apollo Bel- 
vedere. Venus de Medici, and Diana of Versailles, are all taken from 



Cemetery. 



FRANKFORT. 20. Route. 153 



the originals. Here are also preserved casts of the features of the 
Emp. Nicholas, and Prince Lichnowsky, who was brutally murdered 
near this spot during the revolution of 1848. 

The road to the 1. of the Hessian Monument leads to the * Ce- 
metery, V2 M. distant, where many celebrities of modern times are 
interred. 

It contains a number of well executed monuments, among which may 
be mentioned the vault of the von Bethmcmn family (E. side , farthest to 
the 1.), which contains an admirable basrelief by Thorvaldsen to a mem- 
ber of the family who died at Florence in 1813. As the vault is closed, 
visitors must apply to the sexton (fee 30 kr.). Near it is a well executed 
marble relief, the angel announcing the resurrection to the women. 

In the N. portion of the cemetery rises a monument 'to those who fell 
on 18th Sept., 1848\ Among the names recorded is that of the murdered 
Prince Lichnowsky. At the W. end of the enclosure are the graves of 
about 30 of those who fell at the barricades on the same occasion, marked 
by crosses and inscriptions. Near the latter is a Temple, erected by Elector 
William II. of Hessen (d. 1847) to his consort, the Countess Reichenbach. 
On the S.E. side of the cemetery is the Jewish burying-ground (open daily 
except Saturdays). 

If the traveller now retrace his steps, enter the public walks (p. 
148), which have superseded the old fortifications , and tarn to the 
r. , he will reach the Eschenheimer Thor , the only gate which has 
preserved its ancient exterior intact. Near it are the buildings of 
the Senckenberg Society (PI. 51 ; adm. see p. 148), which com- 
prise a hospital, anatomical theatre, botanical garden, and a collec- 
tion of natural history curiosities , the most valuable of which were 
brought by the traveller Riippel from Egypt, Abyssinia, etc. 

The large house adjoining these buildings , the residence of the 
Archduke John in 1848 — 49, when 'Regent of the Empire', is now 
the property of the Burgerverein , or citizens' club (PI. 10), which 
possesses a well supplied reading room (strangers introduced by a 
member). The entrance-hall contains a good copy of a celebrated 
portrait of Goethe by Tischbein. At the Palace of the Prince of 
Thurn and Taxis (PI. 56), in the same street, the Diet of the Con- 
federation held its sessions down to 1866. 

The handsome Saalbau (PI. 49) , in the Junghof-Strasse , con- 
tains spacious concert and assembly rooms. — The Lunatic Asy- 
lum near the Eschenheim road merits the inspection of the pro- 
fessional. 

The * Stadel Art-Institute (PI. 52 ; adm. p. 148), in the Mainzer 
Strasse, was founded by Joh. Fred. Stadel (d. 1816), a citizen of 
Frankfort, who bequeathed his pictures and engravings, his houses, 
and 1,200,000 fl. (100,000 I.) to the town, in order to found a 
School of Art (now attended by about 200 students). The former 
directors were Veit and Passavant (d. 1861); the present director 
is Herr Steinle. The collection consists of pictures, 30,000 engrav- 
ings, drawings by eminent masters, and many excellent casts. Many 
fine works of the old masters have been purchased since the death 
of the founder, but the institution is particularly celebrated for its 



154 Route '26. 



FRANKFORT. 



Stcidel Gallery. 



^Modern Pictures. Catalogue 24 kr. (or one may be borrowed in 
the first room for a trifling fee). The position of the pictures is 
frequently changed. 

At the entrance are bu?ts of Raphael and Diirer by Lotsch and Zwerger, 
Two rooms to the 1. contain Casts of antiques; the ceiling-paintings in 
the second by Veit and Hessemer are worthy of notice, also *102. Schwan- 
thaler's shield of Hercules in bronze. — To the r. , I. Room. 38i. Oppen- 
heim , Portrait of Borne : most of the other pictures are by Frankfort, 
masters of little note. — II. Room. Italian School, chronologically arran- 
ged. 1. Barnabas da Modena , Madonna: 2, 3. School of Siena, Madonna ; 
6. Macrino d'Alba, Picture ; a tempera" in three sections, Mary, Joachim and 
Anna on the 1. , and Joachim instructed by an angel on the r. ; 7. Fiesole, 
Madonna in trono ; 10, 11. Botticelli, Portrait and Madonna; 13. Mantegna, 
St. Mark (all these are a tempera). — 16. Antonello da Messina, St. Se- 
bastian; #17. Bellini, Madonna and Child with John the Baptist and 
St. Elizabeth; 19. Cima da Conegliano . Madonna; 21. Giorgione , Portrait 
of himself; 22. Seb. del Piombo, Portrait of a lady; Moretto , 24. Madonna 
in trono with saints , *25. The four Latin fathers* of the Church , St. Gre- 
gory I. , Jerome , Ambrose , and Augustine (from S. Carlo al Corso at 
Rome , purchased from the collection of Cardinal Fesch in 1845 , for 
38,900 fl.); 30. Paolo Veronese, Mars and Venus; 39. Perugino , Madonna; 
42. Innocenzo da Imola , Assumption . with SS. John the Baptist and Se- 
bastian below, and the donor kneeling. Spanish schools: 51. Velasquez, 
Portrait of Cardinal Borgia (12.646 fl.) ; 52. Ribera ( Spagnoletto), Susannah. 

— III. Room, chiefly devoted to important works by modern masters ; on 
the richly decorated ceiling are medallions with portraits of celebrated 
German artists. 355. Veit, Repose during the flight into Egypt ; 358. Veit, 
Dance of the elves; *369. Lessing , Huss defending his doctrines at Con- 
stance . a large picture . one of the most celebrated of the Diisseldorf 
school; Lessing, *370. Ezzelino in prison, rejecting the consolations of 
priests, and preferring to die of hunger; 371, *372 , 373. Landscapes: 
374. J. Hiibner, Job and his friends; 375. Rethel, Daniel in the lions 1 den; 
*379. J. Becker, Shepherd struck by lightning ; 382. A. Achenbach , Storm 
at sea; 384. Pose. Scene from the Chiemsee ; 387. Chr. Morgenstern, Moon- 
rise at Venice; 388. A. Zimmermann , Alpine scene; 389. Morgenstern. 
Italian coast scene; *395. Gallait, Abdication ofEmp. Charles V. (a small 
repetition of the picture in the Palais de Justice at Brussels) ; 396. II. 
Leys. Scene in front of a Dutch tavern; 397. Calame , Alpine landscape. 

— IV. Room, containing >the bust of Stadel , the founder of the art- 
institute, by Zwerger. *Overbeck's large picture representing the triumph 
of Religion in Art, occupies the entire E. wall. One of its chief points of 
interest is its remarkable wealth of allusion, to unterstand which the vi- 
sitor should consult the catalogue or the sketch of the figures with their 
names annexed. Among the old German pictures the visitor should ob- 
serve : 57, 58. Cologne School (attributed to Meisler Stephan) , Martyrdom 
of the Twelve Apostles (12 scenes). — Fleinisch School : 59. John van Eyck, 
'Madonna of Lucca 1 (so-called from the Duke of Lucca, its former pro- 
prietor); 60. P. Ghristophsen (a pupil of Hubert van Eyck . 1447). Ma- 
donna; 62. Rogier van der Weyden, the Elder, Three sections of an altar- 
piece of St. John; 63. Memting ( ?) . Portrait of a man: 65. R. van der 
Weyden, the Younger, Three wings of an altar-piece, the Trinity (in gri- 
saille), St. Veronica, and Madonna and Child; 71. Q. Massys, Portrait of a 
man ; 76 — 82. Holbein the Elder. Seven scenes from the Passion ; *83. Hol- 
bein the Younger, Portrait of a man with a sick child; Diirer, 86. Portrait 
(on canvas, a tempera) , 87. Portrait of his father (inscription spurious); 
99. Master of the Death of Mary, Mourning over the body of Christ, 
St. Veronica, and Joseph of Arimathea, a triptych. — Fresco Room. (X.) 
357. Veit, The arts introduced into Germany by Christianity , with Italy 
and Germany at the sides. Casts of mediaeval works, e. g. (E. side) the 
bronze doors of the baptistery at Florence by Andrea Pisano and L. Ghi- 
berti. — IV. Room. Netherlands masters (most of them mediocre) : Rubens, 
112. King David playing on the harp, 115. Child in a small chair, 117. 



HOCHST. 



27. Route. 155 



Portrait of a young man; 134. D. Tenters, The smoker; Rembrandt, *144. 
Parable of the labourers and the vineyard (purchased from William II. 
of Holland for 15,729 fl.), 145, 146. Portraits of ladies ; 160. Hals, Portrait 
of a young lady; 183. Van der Neer , Landscape by moon -light; 190, 191, 
193. Ruysdael, 198. Wynants, 199, 201. Everdingen, Landscapes; 203. Hob- 
bema, Forest scene; 231. Steen , Man jesting with a maid; 233, 234. 
Brouicer, Operations on peasants; 235. Terburg , Young lady drinking 
wine ; 238. Mieris, Old woman with a phial ; 259. W. van de Velde, Quay. 
— The adjoining large room in the Wing contains an extensive collection 
of the earlier masters of the modern German school (1800 — 1840): 401. 
Overbed, Joseph sold, and 402. Ph. Veit, The seven years of plenty, two 
cartoons of the frescoes in the Casa Bartoldi at Rome ; 415 — 424. Ram- 
boux, Ten coloured sketches from Dante ; 368. W. Schadoio, The Wise and 
Foolish Virgins; 351, *352 , 353. J. A. Koch, Landscapes; 359. K. Fohr, 
Cascades of Tivoli ; 364. Ramb'ovx , Capuchin preaching in the Colosseum 
at Rome ; 365. F. Pforr, Rudolph of Hapsburg presenting his horse to the 
priest; 366. J. D. Passavant, St. Hubert; 367. Passavant, Pilgrims in the 
desert. 

The Zoological Garden (PI. 57,- adm. p. 148), on the Bocken- 
heim road, 1/4 M. from the gate, is tastefully laid out, and contains 
a valuable collection of animals. Music on Wed., Sat., and Sund. 

About 3 /4 M. farther, to the r. of the Bockenheim road , is the 
*Palm Garden (PL 45), a pleasant park containing the hot-houses 
of the Duke of Nassau, formerly at Biebrich , and purchased by the 
city in 1869. Concert every afternoon, adm. 30 kr. (* Restaurant). 
Tramway-cars to this favourite resort start from the Hauptwache 
(PI. 30) every 1/4 hr. 

Near the Palmengarten is Leven's Zooplastic Museum, a collec- 
tion of stuffed animals in characteristic groups (adm. 18 kr.). 

27. From Frankfort to Mayence and Wiesbaden. 

Excursion to the Taunus. 

Railway to Castel (Mayence) in 1 hr. (fares 1 fl. 48, 1 fl. 9, 42 kr.); 
to Wiesbaden in lij 4 hr. (fares 2 fl. 15, 1 fl. 24, 51 kr.). Views to the r. 
Omnibuses and cabs, see p. 147. 

Direct Railway to Mayence in 1 hr. (fares 1 fl. 54, 1 fl. 12, 45 
kr.), by Scliwanheim, Kelsterbach, Raunheim, Riisselsheim, and Bischofslieim. 
Near the last station is the junction of the Darmstadt and Mayence line 
(p. 169). 

The Taunus Railway, one of the oldest in Germany, was opened 
in 1839. Leaving the town, the train passes the Gallenwarte on the 
1. , one of the towers which mark the ancient territory of Frank- 
fort , and Bockenheim on the r. The Homburg line diverges to 
the r. (p. 163). Stat. Hdchst (Frankfurter Hof; Goldner Adlev, 
Landsbery , at the station), a thriving little town, possesses an inter- 
esting church of St. Justinus, erected in 1090 , with a Gothic choir 
added in 1443. A palace of the Electors of Mayence here was de- 
stroyed by the Frankforters in 1634, but the handsome tower is still 
standing. 

From Hdchst to So den (p. 162) railway in summer only, in 12 min. 
(fares 30, 18, 12 kr.). 

Stat. Hattersheim (p. 161). As the train proceeds, a good view 
to the N. is obtained of the principal peaks of the Taunus Moun- 



156 Route 27. 



HOCHHEIM. 



From Frankfort 



tains (Celtic Dun, Latinised Taunus), viz. the Altkonig, the Great 
Feldberg behind it to the r. , and the Little Feldberg to the 1. 
(p. 161). The Hofheimer Chapel (752 ft.), visited by pilgrims, 2y 2 
M. to the N.W. of Hattersheim, is also conspicuous. 

At stat. Flbrsheim omnibuses and carriages are in waiting to 
convey travellers to the (i 1 /^^-) baths of Weilbach (sulphur-springs), 
with its Curhaus and pleasant grounds. Pleasing view from the 
^KanzeV (pulpit), a hill with four trees, Y2 above Diedenbergen , 
and 3 M. to the N'. of Weilbach. To the N. rise the peaks of the 
Taunus, S. the Melibocus, S.W. the long Donnersberg , part of the 
Rheingau and Frankfort, Worms, Oppenheim, and Mayence ; N.¥, 
Johannisberg and the towers of Geisenheim. 

The line now skirts the long range of vine -clad hills of Hoch- 
heim (407 ft.) (Schwan), w T here, in the best vineyards, each plant 
is frequently valued at a ducat (9s. 6d.). The most esteemed wine 
is yielded by the vineyards of the old Domdechanei (deanery) , now 
a shooting-box of the Duke of Nassau. 

On entering Castel (p. i02)the line intersects the fortifications. 
The station is near the bridge. 

Omnibus to Mayence, without luggage, 18 kr. — Cab for 1 pers. 30, 2 
pers. 36, 3 pers. 42, 4 pers. 50 kr. ■, each box 6 kr. •, these fares incl- 
bridge-toll. — Steamboat from Castel to Mayence (fares 4 and 2 kr.) , on 
the arrival of each train. (Tickets for the Taunus line may be procured 
at the Mayence booking-office.) Porterage from the station to the pier: 
each box 6, travelling-bag 3 kr. 5 from the station to a cab 3 kr. for each 
package \ from Castel to Mayence, each box 10, travelling-bag 6, several 
smaller packages together 10 kr. \ bridge-toll (2 kr.) extra. 

The train again intersects the fortifications of Castel , passes 
Fort Montebello on the 1., stops at stat. Curve, and a few minute- 
later at Wiesbaden. The station (adjoining that of the Right-Rhen- 
ish line) is at the S. end of the Wilhelms - Strasse , which consists 
of handsome houses on the 1. and an avenue on the r. , and termi- 
nates in the square in front of the Cursaal. 

Wiesbaden. Hotels. *aSTassauer Hop (PI. a) and *Four Seasons 
(Hotel Zais, PI. b) . in the Theater-Platz , good and expensive ; *Adler 
(PI. c), *Rose (PI. d), all first-class and with baths. *Bear (PI. 1), with 
pension 5 *Grand Hotel, opposite the post-office, with good baths 5 *Ehein- 
Hotel, to the 1. on leaving the station, R. l 1 ^ fl. , A. 21 kr. ; Hotel 
Weins, Bahnhof-Str. 7, R. from 48, D. 48 kr. ; Taunus Hotel (PI. e), R. 
from 1 fl. , B. 30, L. 12 kr. , D. 1 fl. (starting-point of the Schwalbach 
omnibus); Victoria (PI. f ) ; Railway Hotel-, these four near the sta- 
tions. — *H6tel de France (PL g) : Hollandischer Hof : *Grune Wald 
(PI. h); Alter Nonnenhof •, Einhorn, unpretending. 

Bath-Houses. ^European Hotel , at the Kochbrunnen, well fitted up ; 
English Hotel (PI. k) 5 * Bear (see above), *Rdmerbad (PI. m) , Engel 
(PI. n), *Schican (PI. 0), Krone (PI. p), Spiegel (PI. g) , *Stern (PL r) , At. 
Charges vary with the season. Tea and coffee are the only refreshments 
supplied in these houses. 

Restaurants. At the Cursaal; *Christmann and Lngenbillil , both in 
the Untere Webergasse \ *Dalheim , Taunus-Strasse ; Restaurant Erangais, 
Wilhelms-Str. ; Weins, Miihlgasse *, Bauer, Xero-Str. Table d'hote at all 
during the season. — Beer. Nonnenhof; Poths , Langgasse ; Engel, Lang- 



n 



Hotels: 

a . TierJakrvszeitcn 

b. JassauepJIof 
C.Adlcv 
(LMose 

e. Tannics Hotel 

f. Hotel Victoria 

2'. jZbYe? (fc Franco 



B3.± 
B.3 
A. 3. 
B3 
Bo 

5. Co 
Bo 



SchbnB Aissicht 



Bad* 

i. Firropau i 
\^JEngJiseJu 
1 . Schwann i 
ra Ramcvba 
11 Engel 
o. Schhun 
p, Jzranc 
a. Spiegel 
v. Stern 



IT - 



3K 




Darmstadt Ed. Wagner. 



to Wiesbaden. 



WIESBADEN. 



27. Route. 157 



gasse, not far from the Kochbrunnen Duensing (Taunus Hotel), at the sta- 
tion, &c. — Confectioners. *Rdder, Webergasse ; Wenz, Spiegelgasse. 

Newspapers in the Reading-room of the Cursaal 5 admission gratis. 

Concerts in the Curgarten in summer daily at 6 a. m. and 3 — 6 p. m. ; 
on Mond., Wed., and Frid. also 8 — 10 p. m. 

Cursaal (PI. 11). 'Reunions dansantes' 1 on Saturdays, during the season ; 
tickets issued by the bath - authorities. Concerts on Fridays , musicians 
of the highest class, adm. 1 — 3 fl. 

Tax payable by visitors: 1 pers. for a year 6, family of 1 — 4 pers. 9, 
upwards of 4 pers.' 12 Thlr. ; for the season (stay of six weeks) for 1 pers. 
2, family of 1 — 4 pers. 4, upwards of 4 pers. 6 Thlr. (children and ser- 
vants included). Day ticket of admission to the reading-rooms, music- 
balls, etc. 5 Sgr. 

Theatre (PL 21), one of the best in the Rhineland, daily except Mond. 
and Frid., at 6^2 o'clock (closed in May). 

Bath Office of the 'Curverein 1 at the 'Bear', where visitors may apply 
for information. The 'Badeblatf is published here. 

Cabs. From the station to the town 1 — 2 pers. 9 , 3 — 4 pers. 14 Sgr. 
(incl. trunk, travelling bag, and hat-box); each additional trunk 2 Sgr. 
Drive in the town 1—2 pers. 5, 3—4 pers. 7, i| 2 hr. 7—10, 1 hr. 14—17. 
Sgr. — Two-horse carriage 7 — 9 Sgr. per drive , for ^2 hr. 10 — 14 , 1 hr. 
20 — 24 Sgr. — The hotels charge about one-third more than these fares. 

Donkeys, on the Sonnenberg road, opposite the Berliner Hof, 8^2 Sgr. 
per hour (incl. fee) ; to the Platte and back 24 Sgr. 

Railway- Stations of the Taunus and the Right-Rhenish (or Nassovian) 
lines at the E. end of the Rhein-Strasse. 

Telegraph Office at the Rathhaus (PL 17) in the Markt. 

The Waters are drunk from 5 to 8 a. m., seldom in the evening. 

English Church in the Wilhelms-Strasse. 

Wiesbaden (377 ft. above the sea-level, 92 ft. above the Rhine), 
with 35,463 inhab., formerly the capital of the Duchy of Nassau, 
and now the chief town of the Prussian province of Wiesbaden, lies 
on the S.W. spurs of the Taunus Mts. (p. 161), in a basin watered 
by the Salzbach, and is surrounded by handsome villas , and pro- 
ductive orchards and vineyards. It is a very pleasant, and for the 
most part well built town. A number of handsome streets fcave 
sprung up within the last forty years in the neighbourhood of the 
Cursaal and the railway stations, while the public grounds together 
with the gardens of the 'Landhauser' , or villas where apartments 
are let, greatly enhance the attractions of the place. Wiesbaden 
was visited in 1872 by upwards of 60,000 patients and travellers. 
The excellence of its sanitary establishments , coupled with the 
healthiness of the climate, render Wiesbaden a favourite resort of 
strangers, even in winter, when living is moreover less expensive 
than in summer. Many of the neighbouring villas are private 
residences. 

Wiesbaden is one of the oldest watering-places in Germany. 'Sunt et 
Mattiaci in Germania fontes calidi trans Rhenum, quorum haust us triduo fer- 
vef is Pliny's account of Wiesbaden (Hist. Nat. XXXI. 2). On the 
Heidenberg , which rises to the ]S T . of the town, traces of a Roman fortress 
were discovered in 1838, which according to the inscriptions was garrison- 
ed by the 14th and 22nd Legions. The Heidenmauer (heathens' wall), 650 
ft. long, 10 ft. high, 9 ft. thick, in which fragments of ruined temples, 
votive-tablets, &c. may be recognised, forming a sort of town-wall on the 
N.W. , was perhaps a connecting line between the fort and the town. 
Urns, implements, weapons, and Roman tombstones arc exhibited in the 
Museum (p. 159). 



158 Route 27 



WIESBADEN. 



Cursaal. 



From the R a i I v: a y S t a. Hon s i 'PL B. 6) the traveller enters 
the Wilhelms-Strasse. planted with tree-, and about M. in length, 
bounding the E. side of the town, and adjoined by the Anlagen. or 
public pleasure grounds. Near the junction of street with the 
Frankfurter Strasse is situated the English. Church. [PL 7). At 
the end of the avenue, to the 1.. lies the Th e a t e r - PI a t z . ador- 
ned with a Bust of Schiller (PI. 19). Three sides of this Platz are 
occupied by the Four Seasons Hotel, the Xassauer Hof , and the 
Theatre. On the r. is the square in front of the Cursaal . embel- 
lished with flower-beds and two handsome fountains . and flanked 
by spacious Colonnades iPl. 3). which serve as a bazaar. 

The * Cursaal (PI. ill is the chief resort of visitors. The princi- 
pal hall is 132 ft. long. 60 ft. wide, and 48 ft. high. The orchestra 
galleries are supported by handsome Corinthian columns of the red 
and grey marble of the country. On the N. side is the Restaurant, 
on the S. side the concert, ball, and reading rooms. 

The Garden at the back of the Cursaal is the favourite after- 
dinner lounge of visitor- to the baths, as well as of numerous excur- 
sionists from Mayence and the neighbourhood . who . especially on 
Sunday afternoons, rlock to these shady grounds to sip their coffee 
and enjoy the music. A fountain with a jet 100 ft. in height plays 
in the great pond every afternoon. The *Park is very extensive. 
Paths in a plea-ant grassy dale lead past the Dietenmuhle (*Inn: 
PI. 4). where Dr. Genth's Hydropathic Establishment is situated, to 
the i I 1 o M.J ruin of Sonnenberg . and the Rambaeher Capelle. i 1 ? 
M. farther, where remains of a Roman camp were excavated in 1859. 

The Kochbrunnen ("PI. 10), or boiling spring (156° Fahr. j . the 
most important of the thermal springs (of which chloride of sodium 
i ; rne chief ingredient"), is connected with the Curgarten by a long 
iron Trinkhalle ('PI. 22) in the form of a verandah. The marble 
Hygeia Group (PI. 86] in the Kranz- Platz. near the Kochbrunnen. 
is by Hoffmann of Wiesbaden | 1850). The warm spring (147° Fahr.) 
in the garden of the Adler Hotel is also used for drinking. The Wa- 
ters are beneficial incases of rheumatism, gout, and many other 
ailments. 

The Gothic *Prot. Church (PI. 8 J with it- live lofty towers, 
opposite the palace, built of polished bricks in 1852— i860, is the 
most conspicuous edifice in the town. The choir is adorned with 
colossal marble statues of Christ and the four Evangelists, by Hopf- 
garten. — The Eom. Cath. Church (PI. 9) is a handsome modern 
structure in the Romanesque style . with groined vaulting. Altar- 
piece on the r.. Madonna and Child, by Steinle : 1. St. Boniface, by 
Rethel. In the Louisen -Platz in front of the church an Obelisk (PL 
23) was erected in 1865 . to the memory of the Nassovian soldiers 
who fell at Waterloo. 

The other buildings of note are the Palace (PL 13): the Palais 
Pauline (PI. 14) on the slope near the Cursaal. in the Moorish style : 



Greek Chapel. 



WIESBADEN. 



27. Route. 159 



Government Buildings, in the Florentine palatial style ; the new 
Schools, and the new Synagogue (PI. 20), the latter in the Oriental 
style, both on the Michaelsherg. 

The Museum (PI. 12) at the ' Schlbsschen' in the Wilhelms-Strasse 
contains a collection of Roman and other antiquities on the ground- 
floor (open Mond., Wed., Frid. 3 — 6 p. m.), among which an altar 
of Mithras with remarkably well preserved sculptures, discovered at 
Heddernheim (Novus Vims) on the Nidda, 4*/ 2 M. to the N.W. of 
Frankfort, deserves particular inspection. Among the mediaeval cu- 
riosities is a gilded and carved wooden altar of the 13th cent. On 
the ground-floor, to the r. is a Picture Gallery (Sund., Mond., Wed., 
Frid., 11 — 4). — The first floor contains an admirably arranged 
Natural History Collection , and Gerning's celebrated Collection of 
Insects (Mond., Wed., Frid. 2—6 , also Wed. 11 — 1). — The Li- 
brary in the upper storey (Mond. , Wed. , Frid . 9 — 12 and 2 — 5), 
contains valuable old MSS., among which may be mentioned 'The 
Visions of St. Hildegard' , a parchment illuminated with curious 
miniatures of the 12th cent., 'The Visions of St. Elisabeth of Scho- 
nau', with painted and gilt letters, and an autograph of Sallust. 

Wiesbaden possesses excellent educational establishments , the 
chief of which are the Chemical Laboratory of Fresenius , the Agri- 
cultural Institution on the old Geisberg , and the Grammar School. 

About halfway up the Neroberg, 1 M. to the N. of the Cursaal, 
is situated the * Greek Chapel, erected by the Duke of Nassau as a 
Mausoleum for his first wife, the Duchess Elizabeth Michailowna, a 
Russian princess (d. 1845). The terrace in front of it affords a fine 
view of Wiesbaden and Mayence ; to the S. rises the Melibocus . to 
the S.W. the long Donnersberg. 

The richly decorated Chapel, in the form of a Greek cross, is covered 
by a large, and four smaller domes, all gilded ; the highest is surmount- 
ed by a Russian double cross, 190 ft. from the ground, secured by gilded 
chains. The interior is entirely of marble. A rich altar-screen (Ikonos- 
tas) , with numerous figures of saints on a golden ground , painted in 
Russia, separates the body of the chapel from the choir, to which the 
priests and their attendants alone have access. The altar, above which is 
a window with a stained glass figure of the Saviour, is only visible during 
divine service. A pentagonal recess on the N. side contains the beautiful 
^Monument of the Duchess. The recumbent figure of white marble , rest- 
ing on a sarcophagus, at the sides of which are statuettes of the Twelve 
Apostles, and at the corners Faith, Hope, Charity, and Immortality, was 
executed by Prof. Hopfgarten of Berlin. Divine service according "to the 
Greek ritual on Sundays at 10 a, m. 5 the public are not admitted. At 
other times the chapel is shown by the sacristan who lives near (fee for 
1 pers. 24 kr. , 3—4 pers. 1 fl.). At the back of the chapel is a Russimi 
Burial-ground, prettily laid out. 

On the Neroberg, to the N.W. of, and l/ 4 hr. above the chapel, 
is an open Temple (725 ft.) , commanding an extensive prospect 
(Restaurant). Promenades intersect the wood in every direction, 
and extend as far as the Platte (see below). At the foot of the hill 
on the S. side is the Hydropathic Establishment of Nerothal. 

The Cemetery , on the slope opposite the Neroberg , on the old 



160 Route 27 



WIESBADEN. 



Limburg road. 1 M. from the Cursaal . contains several handsome 
monuments. The Hanoverian General von Baring , defender of La 
Have Sainte at Waterloo, is interred here, and a simple chapel marks 
the grave of the Duchess Pauline fd. 1856). 

The * Platte (1640 ft.), a shooting-lodge of the Duke, on a height 
i}/g hr. to the N. of Wiesbaden . is frequently visited for the view. 
The walks on the Xeroberg extend as far as the Platte, and are pro- 
vided with finger-posts. The carriage drive to the Platte is the old 
Limburg road, on which an omnibus to Idstein runs every afternoon. 
(Far below in the valley to the L lies the ancient nunnery of Cla- 
renthal. founded in 1296 by the Emp. Adolph of Nassau and Ms 
consort Imagina of Limburg ; above it is a building formerly used as 
a Pheasantry. In a valley between the latter and the Platte, to the 
r. of the Schwalbach road . is the extensive fish-rearing establish- 
ment of the Nassovian fishery association.) Theplatform of the shoot- 
ing-lodge commands a very extensive prospect (finest by evening 
light), embracing the Westerwald . Spessart . Odenwald . and Don- 
nersberg . and the valley of the Rhine as far as the Haardt Mts.. 
with Mayence in the foreground. The telescope enables the specta- 
tor to distinguish person? crossing the bridge of boats. The interior 
contains nothing worthy of note. *Inn adjacent. The wild boars 
kept in the neighbouring Saupark are fed daily at Op. m. . when 
they are summoned to their repast by the blast of a horn. Pedestrians 
may descend from the Platte to the S.E. to the Sonnenberg (p. 
158). 3 M. distant. The path, which diverges from the main road 
to the 1. by a plantation of oaks, is distinctly visible from the plat- 
form. Wiesbaden lies lJ/ 2 Sf« t0 tne S.W. of the Sonnenberg. 

Wiesbaden is connected with Mosbach (p. 164) by a double 
avenue of horse-chestnuts. Half-way to the village is the Adolphs- 
hohe. a restaurant which affords a beautiful survey of the Rheingau 
as far as the Rochus-Capelle near Bingen. 

Another fine view is obtained from the Chausseehaus . a fo- 
rester's house, on the old Schwalbach road. 3 M. from Wiesbaden, 
at the point where the road to Georgenborn and Schlangenbad di- 
verges. Near it rises the Seh.laferskopf (1492 ft.), commanding an 
extensive prospect. 

Excursion to the Taunus. 

In tico days a pedestrian may visit the finest points of this pleasant 
and fertile hill-district. From stat. Hattersheim first visit Hofheiw C&U MO 
and the chapel ( l \ 2 hr.). and proceed to Fppstein (O 1 4 M.) : next to Kmig- 
stein (5 M.) ; in the evening to the castle and the Falkenstein (or with 
guide from Eppstein to the Rossert and Konigstein, 2% hrs.). — Early 
next morning to the summit of the Grosse Feldberg (l 3 4 hr.) by the smal- 
ler mountain of that name: then to the Altkbnig (i 1 ^ hr.) . and back to 
Konigstein (ii 4 hr.) ; dine, and in the afternoon walk to Soden , 3 If. dis- 
tant ; thence bv train to Frankfort 0, 2 hr.). — .1 third day may be pleas- 
antly spent in talking from Soden to Cronthal , Cronberg, Ober-Ursel, and 
Hamburg, about 10 M. ; thence by railway to Frankfort in 3 4 hr. —-In 
hnlf a day a elimpse at this district may be obtained by proceeding 



launus. 



FELDBERG, 



27. Route. 161 



from Frankfort immediately after an early dinner by railway to Soden 
(i| 2 hr.); visit the grounds, ascend to Cronberg (1 nr.), coffee at the 
Schiitzenhof under the chestnut trees, visit the *castle, and, quitting it 
on the N. side, proceed to (2 M.) Konigstein 5 thence return on foot or by 
omnibus to (3 M.) Soden, and by train to Frankfort in ^2 hr. 

The road from Hattersheim (Schiitzenhof; Nassauer Hof) , a 
station on the Taunus Railway, to Hofheim (Krone) is destitute of 
shade, but the view from the Chapel (p. 156) repays the ascent. 

The road through the Lor shadier Thai to Eppstein traverses luxu- 
riant meadows , enclosed by shady slopes, and watered by the rapid 
Schwarzbach. On a precipitous rock at the end of the valley, above the 
old village of Eppstein, stands the castle of that name. It was an- 
ciently the seat of a powerful family , five members of which were 
archbishops and electors of Mayence between 1060 and 1305. The 
Protestant church contains monuments of the family, which became 
extinct in 1535. The grounds connected with the castle are taste- 
fully laid out. Near Eppstein is the inn Zur Oelmuhle (high 
charges). 

The *Rossert (1683 ft.), best ascended from Eppstein , affords a fine 
prospect of the valleys of the Rhine and Main. — Ascent of the Stavfen 
(1482 ft.), 3 \i hr. to the E., not recommended } view intercepted by trees. 

The road from Eppstein to Konigstein leads (through a pictu- 
resque ravine to (1 1 / 2 M.) Fischbach, then crosses a lofty plain to (2 M.) 
Schneidhain , and ascends to (l 1 ^ M.) Konigstein (Lowe; Stadt 
Amsterdam) , above which rises the ruined fortress of that name 
(1492 ft.), demolished by the French in 1796. From 1581 it be- 
longed to the electors of Mayence , whose arms are over the en- 
trance. After the re-capture of Mayence in 1793 (p. 102), it was 
employed as a stateprison. *View from the platform similar to that 
from theFalkenstein (see below). A handsome villa of the Duke of 
Nassau adjoins the ruin. A hydropathic establishment is in the 
vicinity. Omnibus to Soden, see p. p. 162. 

The ruin of Falkenstein (1577 ft.), crowning a well wooded hill, 
IY2 M. E., also commands a fine view. It was the family seat of the 
powerful Archbishop Kuno of Treves (p. 75) , built at the begin- 
ning of the 13th cent., and named after an older castle on theDon- 
nersberg. 

Guide (unnecessary) to the Feldberg 12 Sgr. ; donkey with guide 
20, incl. Falkenstein 24 Sgr. ; carriage and pair 5, with three horses 
8 fl. The pedestrian diverges from the Frankfort and Limburg road, 
IV2 M. from Konigstein, to the r., crosses the Little Feldberg (2713 
ft.) in 1 hr., and in */ 4 hr. more reaches the Great Feldberg. The 
traveller who is attended by a guide should quit the high road im- 
mediately beyond the church of Konigstein, cross the meadow to the 
r., and after i/ 4 hr. enter the wood. Or, better still, this shorter, 
but more precipitous path may be taken in returning, and the castle 
of Falkenstein visited on the way. 

The summit of the* Great Feldberg (2887 ft.), the highest of 
the Taunus Mts., consists of quartzose rock, and the slopes of talc 

Baedeker's Rhine. 5th Edit. 11 



162 Route?? 



HOMBURG. 



1 annus i 



and clay-slate. In clear weather the view is very extensive (see Ra- 
venstein's Panorama, price 30 kr.). embracing the Rhine and the 
Main ; to theE. the Inselsbeig, the Rhongehirge. and Spessart : S. the 
Melibocus, Konigsstuhl. the Mercurius near Baden, and the Vosges ; 
W. the Donnersberg . Hunnsruck, and mountains of the Moselle j 
N. the Seven Mts., and those of Westphalia. Inn at the top. The 
block of quartz on the summit is mentioned in a document of 812 5 
as the Brunhildenslein. On the N. slope is situated the ruin of 
Oher-Reiffenberg . (From the Feldberg to Homburg, with guide, in 
3 hrs.). 

The Altkonig [2617 ft.) is U/ 4 hr. to the S. of the Grosse Feld- 
berg. Ascent somewhat fatiguing, but interesting to the antiquarian. 
The summit is surrounded by a gigantic double wall of loose stones, 
once ascribed to the Romans, but probably erected by the aboriginal 
inhabitants as a refuge in time of war. or as a place of worship. 

A good road descends to the S. from Konigstein to Neuenhain 
and (31 2 MO 

Soden (* Curhaus : *Europ. Hof, with baths ; ^Frankfurter Hof, 
quiet : Holland. Hof: Hotel Garni sum Stolzenfels ■ Hotel Colosseus. 
with restaurant) . a thriving little watering-place (^3000 patients 
annually) with a handsome Curhaus and pleasant grounds taste- 
fully laid out. The thermal water (J>1°) is used for baths. Most 
of the villas in the environs belong to citizens of Frankfort. The 
Drei Linden. '20 min. to the N. of Neuenhain. command a tine view 
of the Main Valley. Frankfort, etc.. and of the Melibocus and Don- 
nersberg towards the S. 

Omnibus between Konigstein and Soden in the morning only •, diligence 
3 times daily in 35 min., fare 18 kr. ; between Hochst and Konigstein 3 
times dailv , fare 35 kr. Railway between Soden and Hochtt , see p. 155). 

Cronberg (* Seuutzenhcf : Frankfurter Hof), 2 M. to the E. of Ko- 
nigstein , and 3 M. to the X. of Soden . is noted for the produc- 
tiveness of its orchards. The ruined castle above the town commands 
a magnificent *view ( tower ascended by 132 wooden steps, the high- 
est point by a ladder). Cronberg. like Konigstein and Soden. 
being situated in the heart of the Taunus . is an excellent starting- 
point for excursions in this beautiful district. A number of country 
houses have recently been erected here by citizens of Frankfort. Om- 
nibus 3 times daily to AVeiskirchen. a station on the Homburg rail- 
way. The baths of Cronthal (1 M. to the S.. on the road to Soden, 
which is '2 ML farther), now little frequented, are delightfully situ- 
ated in a chestnut plantation . and noted for the salubrity of the 
air. 

About 10 M. to the E. of Konigstein or Soden lies Homburg 
{Four Seasons , Russian. English, European, Victoria, and Hessian 
Hotels'), formerly the capital of the Landgrafschaft of Hessen - Hom- 
burg, and now a much frequented watering-place ( 8000 visitors an- 
nually) , situated on a spur of the Taunus. Independently of the 
bath:?, it is a place of no importance. The *Curhaus 3 and the charm- 



OSTERPAY. 



2<S. Route. 163 



ing walks which lead to the chalybeate and saline springs, 3 /4 M. 
distant, are the chief attractions. — The Theatre , which is richly 
decorated, has room for 1200 spectators. — The Schloss is un- 
interesting. Over the door of theW. wing is a bust of Prince Fred- 
erick of Homburg , who by a spirited charge at Eehrbellin in 1675 
decided the battle in favour of the Erandenburgers against the 
^Swedes. The lofty round tower in the middle of the court-yard 
commands an extensive view. 

The Saalburg, an object of interest to the antiquarian, is the remnant 
of an old Roman fort, situated on a wooded saddle of the Taunus (1341 
ft.), 1 3 |4 M. to the ]N. of Homburg, a short way to the 1. of the road to 
Usingen. It belonged to the extensive line of fortifications, known as 
Limes Imperii Romani , which protected the Roman territory from the in- 
cursions of the Germans , and was doubtless built by Germanicus to re- 
place one erected by Drusus , and destroyed A. D. 9 , after the defeat of 
Varus (%)osito castello super vestigia paterni praesidii in monte Tauno expe- 
dition exercitum in Cattos rapit. Tac. Ann. I. 36). Ptolemy mentions it 
as Arctuunon. It consists of a parallelogram , 243 yds. by 160 yds. , with 
rounded corners , and enclosed by two deep fosses. In the centre is the 
Praetorium, 52 yds. by 45 yds. , with foundations of sandstone \ two large 
blocks of sandstone here were probably the pedestal of a colossal bronze 
statue, traces of which were found among the ruins. — From Homburg to 
the Grosse Feldberg (p. 161) , 3 hrs. } beyond the Schlossgarten follow 
the high road to the N. W. for B 1 ^ M. 5 then at the finger-post ascend 
to the 1. 

Railway from Homburg to Frankfort in 3 /4 hr. (fares 1 fl., 36 
kr., 21 kr.J. 

28. From Coblenz to Wiesbaden. Schlangenbad and 
Schwalbaeh. 

Kailway on the Right Bank. 

Comp. Maps, pp. 82, 98. 

Railway, crossing the Rhine at Coblenz, in 3 hrs. (fares 2 Thh\ 
21 1 !';, 1 Thlr. lT 1 ^, 1 Thlr. 1 Sgr.). Views of the Rhine to the right. — 
Return-tickets must be stamped at the ticket-office before they are avail- 
able for the return journey. 

The following places as far as Wiesbaden are more fully de- 
scribed in RR. 16, 18. 

From Coblenz to Oberlahnstein, see R. 16. 

Oberlahnstein (p. 82) is the junction for Ems and Wetzlar; 
carriages changed here. As the train proceeds, a view of Rhense 
and the picturesque slopes beyond is obtained. Stat. Braubach , at 
the foot of the Marksburg, lies opposite Brey, above which are situ- 
ated JSieder- and Ober-Spay. Above stat. Osterpay rises the cha- 
teau of Liebeneck) 011 the opposite bank, high above the river, stands 
the Jacobsberger Hof. The train next passes Filsen , opposite the 
Muhlbad, commands a fine view oiBoppard, andreaches stat. Camp. 
The convent of Bornhofen and the foot of the 'Brothers' Sterrenberg 
and Liebenstein are now skirted. Above stat. Kestert, lies the pleas- 
ant village of Hirzenach on the opposite bank. Beyond stat. Welmich 

11* 



164 Route 28. 



MOSBACH 



From Coblenz 



3 1 the foot of the -Mouse' . the imposing ruin? of Rheinfels and the 
small town of St. Goar on the 1. bank come in sight. 

Stat. St. Goarshausen, at the entrance to the Swiss Valley, and 
commanded by the 'Cat', is next reached. The train then penetrates 
the rocks of the Lurlei and Ross-Stein by means of tunnels, beyond 
which Oherwesel . on the opposite bank, commanded by the Schon- 
burg. come- into view. Opposite stat. Caub, at the foot of Gutenfels. 
is situated the PfaHz in the middle of the Rhine. Farther up the 
river, on the 1. bank, lies the ancient town of Bacharach . with the 
ruins of Stahleck. The next ruin on the opposite bank is Fursten- 
herg . beyond which lies Rhemdiebach. The train now inter- 
sects Lorchhausen . skirts the base of the ancient castle of Nol- 
Ihigen. at the entrance to the Wisperthal, and stops at 

Stat. Lorch. On the opposite bank, above Niederheimbach . rises 
the ronnd tower of Heimburg. and farther on, the castle of Sooneck. 
Again on the 1. bank TrechtHngshausen, beyond it the Falkenburg. 
at the entrance to the Morgenbachthal : then th^ Clemenskirche. and 
above it the picturesque Rheinstein. Assmannshausen is the station 
for the Niederwald Skirting the base of Ehrenfels. and passing the 
Binger Loch, the Mouse Tower on an island, and Blngen . at the 
mouth of the Xahe. the train stops at 

Stat. Riidesheim. Steam-ferry to Bingerbruck f'2 or 1 SgrA On 
the opposite bank rises the wooded Roehusberg with its chapel. To 
the 1. of stat. Geisenheim rises the chateau of Johannisberg , with 
the village of that name. lVo M. distant, usually visited from stat. 
"Winkel. To the 1. the castle of Vollrdths, another celebrated wine- 
growing locality . and r. the village of Mittelheim. Opposite stat. 
Oestrich. a little inland, is Nieder-Ingelheim. To the 1. of the line 
lies Hallo art en. amidst vineyards of high repute - r. the chateau of 
Reichartshausen : 1. the lunatic asylum of Eichberg, the abbey of 
Eberbach. and the celebrated Steinberg vineyard. Beyond stat. Hat- 
tenheim the train passes the Mareobrunn vineyards, opposite which 
are two picturesque and fertile islands. 

From stat. Eltville [p. 991 to Schlangenbad and Sehwalbarh. 
see below. 

On the opposite bank, farther on. rise the Lenaherg and the 
chapel of Budenheim. On the hill to the 1. of stat. Niederwalluf 
stands the church of Rauent hal . and on the 1. above stat. Schier- 
stein lies the Nurnberger Hof. The Rhdnhutte foundry is next seen 
on the r.. beyond which the line runs more inland. 

Stat. Mosbach. The N. entrance to the Park of Biebrich is close 
to the station. The Schloss is then passed, the handsome barracks 
of Biebrich are observed to the r. . and beyond them the towers of 
Mayence on the opposite bank. The line now turns to the 1. and 
affords a pleasant view of Wiesbaden, the Platte, the Neroberg, and 
the Greek chapel. Wiesbaden* see p. 156. 



to Wiesbaden. SCHLANGENBAD. 



28. Route. 165 



Sehlangenbad and Schwalbach are most conveniently vi- 
sited from Eltville, Wiesbaden, or Dietz (p. 146). 

From Eltville to Sehlangenbad 5 M. (omnibus 4 times daily in 
summer in connection with the trains, in l 1 ^ hr., fare 13 Sgr.), to Schwal- 
bach about 4 1 |-2 M. farther (omnibus 4 times daily in 2 1 |-i hrs. , fare 20^2 
Sgr.). Carriage from Eltville to Sehlangenbad with one horse 1 Thlr. 20, 
with two 2 Thlr. 26 Sgr. , to Schwalbach 2 Thlr. 26 or 4 Thlr. 16 Sgr. \ 
return-fare, with 3 hrs. stay, one-half more. 

From Wiesbaden to Schwalbach diligence twice daily in 2 1 !-! hrs., 
fare 15 Sgr. 

The road from Eltville traverses the plain of the Sulzbach (to 
the 1. in the distance rises the lofty tower of Scharfenstein , near 
Kiedrich, p. 100), and gradually ascends, skirting the foot of the 
Rauenthal vineyards, to (iy 4 M.) Neu dorf (Krone), where it unites 
with the road from Niederwalluf and Schierstain. It next passes 
the suppressed monastery of Tiefenthcd (now a mill) , and leads 
through an attractive , shaded valley, enlivened by numerous mills, 
to (3 3 / 4 M.) Sehlangenbad. 

Pedestrians should select the somewhat longer route by Rauenthal. 
The high road is quitted 1 M. from Eltville , and the vineyards ascended 
by a footpath to the 1. ; on reaching the summit of the plateau , turn 
again slightly to the 1. \ (25 min.) the *Bubenhduser Hdhe (846 ft.) com- 
mands a magnificent view of the entire Rheingau from Mayence as far as 
below Johannisberg 5 in the foreground lies the handsome town of Eltville. 
About 3 j 4 M. farther ]S T . , on the summit of the hill, is situated Rauenthal 
( Nassauer Hof, with garden and view; *Rheingauer Hof), a village with 
an ancient church , and celebrated for its wine. The carriage-road to it 
from Neudorf (see, above) ascends to the 1. at a direction-post x \\ M. beyond 
the village, leading to Rauenthal in ^4 hr. On the slope of the hill on 
the 1ST. side of Rauenthal a shady promenade leads to Sehlangenbad in 
z \\ hr. Those who prefer the high road descend to the r. by a way-post 
about !| 4 M. from the village. To the road 3 ( 4 M., to Sehlangenbad l*|s M. 
more. 

Sehlangenbad (828 ft.) (Nassauer Hof, R. from 15, D. 25, B. 10 
Sgr. ; Hotel Victoria , D. 20 Sgr. ; Hotel Planz 5 Pariser Hoe. The 
others — Englischer Hof, Stadt Wiesbaden, Russ. Hof, Gruner Wald, 
Rdss. Kaiser, Deutsches Haus , &c. are me1*e lodging-houses, where 
breakfast only is supplied. — Raths 15 Sgr. ; those at the new bath- 
house better, 20 Sgr. — A tax of 3 Thlr. is exacted from a single patient, 
6 Thlr. from a family of 3 pers, and so on. The Landrath at Schwalbach 
is the director of the baths. — Carriages, two-horse 1 Thlr. 20 Sgr. , one- 
horse 1 Thlr. per hour, after 10 p. m. 20 Sgr. more ; to Eltville in the 
forenoon 2 Thlr. 10 or 1 Thlr. 15 Sgr. , in the afternoon 2 Thlr. 20 or 
2 Thlr., according to tariff) is charmingly situated in a richly wooded 
valley, refreshed by a constant , invigorating current of air. The 
water (84 — 90° Fahr.), which is only used externally , and is clear 
and free from odour, and smooth and oily to the touch, is most effi- 
cacious in skin complaints, convulsive affections, debility, and si- 
milar maladies; the baths are principally visited by ladies. Accord- 
ing to a tradition, the springs were discovered by a cow -herd, 200 
years ago, who going in search of his truant animals found them 
luxuriating in the warm spring. The old bath-house, or Qurhaus, 
was erected in 1G94 by the Landgrave Carl of llessen-Cassel , then 
lord of the soil ; the spacious new Bath-Ho use (with 22 baths ) was com- 



166 Route 28. 



SCHWALBACH. 



pletedin 1868. The terrace is the chief rendezvous of visitors. The 
environs afford a great variety of well -shaded wood walks. The 
Wilhelmsfelsen (walk of l /2 nr 0j ascended to the 1. in */ 4 hr. from the 
Georgenborn road (see below"), commands a fine view of Schlangen- 
bad, Ran en thai, and the Rheingau, with the Donnersberg in thedis- 
tance. The Graue Stein (1115 ft.), another rocky eminence, */ 2 
to the r. of the Georgenborn road, is also a fine point of view. 

The reader will find an interesting description of this locality 
in Sir Francis Head's 'Bubbles from the Brunnens of Nassau.' 

From Schlang enbad to Wiesbaden the carriage-road by (fife ML) 
Georgenborn (1187 ft.) is the best route for pedestrians. From the high- 
est point there is a magnificent prospect, extending from the neighbour- 
hood of Frankfort as far as the confluence of the Main and Rhine, embrac- 
ing the Rhine from Worms to Binoen ■ and the Donnersberg in the back- 
ground. To the Chausseehaus (p. 167) 2^ M., thence to Wiesbaden by the 
old Wiesbaden and Schwalbach road 3 M. 

The high road from Schlangenbad by Wambach to Schwal- 
bach (4^2 M.) rises considerably for 2% M. , commanding a 
fine view from the culminating point , and then descends to (2 M.) 

Schwalbach. Hotels: *Alleesaal; *Post 5 *Duke of Nassau, R. 
from 20 Sgr., D. 1 Thlr., L. 7i| 2 , B. 10, A. 5 Sgr.; Taunus Hotel, I). 20 
Sgr. \ Wagner; *Russischer Hof 5 Mainzer Hof,"D. 17 Sgr. — Restaurants: 
Dille, T). from 10 Sgr.; Gundersheim ; Burg Rheinstein. 

Lodging Houses: Xeglein, Eranich, Concordia , Prim v. Preussen, Mei- 
Unger , Scheuermann , Dorselhouse , Somersethouse , Felsenbnrg , Darmstadt, 
Wiener Hof, Stadt Hanau , Einhorn , Bellevue, Tivoli (large -and well fitted 
up) , Panorama , Widoio Grebert, Villa Werner, Pariser Hof, Hotel Walter, 
Gutenberg , Stadt Coblenz , Englischer Hof, &c. — Dinner may be procured 
from the Duke of Nassau Hotel, Warner, Pariser Hof, and the Restaurants 
at 20, 15, and 10 Sgr. 

Reading Room in the Alleesaal. 

Baths in the Badhaus (5 a. m. till l 1 ^ p. m., 10 Sgr.). At the Darm- 
stddter Hof, Eranich, Stadt Coblenz, Engl. Hof, Einhorn, Baltzer , Linde, 
and Russie, 18 Sgr. per bath. Bath Tax 2 Thlr. for 1 pers., 3—6 Thlr. for 
families. — Music in the morning and 'afternoon , at the Stahlbrunnen 
and Paulinenbrunnen alternately. — Fee to the girl at the wells 1 Thlr. 

Carriages. One-horse 1 Thlr., two-horse DJ2 Thlr. per hour, after 10 
p. m. 15 Sgr. more; to Eltville or to Wiesbaden 3 and 4 2 |3 Thlr. — Donkeys 
12 Sgr. per hour : for excursions there is a fixed tariff. 

Telegraph Office at the post-office. 

English Church Service in the Lutheran Church during the season. 

Schwalbach (951 ft.") is situated on the Wiesbaden and Coblenz * 
road, IOI/2 M. N.W. of Wiesbaden, 9y 2 M. N. of Eltvill>, and 20% 
M. S. of Dietz , The three principal springs , the Stahlbrunnen in 
one of the valleys , and the Weinbrunnen and Paulinenbrunnen in 
the other, are connected by promenades. The principal Bath-House 
is at the Weinbrunnen ; the water, strongly impregnated with iron 
and carbonic acid, is adapted for internal and external use , and is 
especially efficacious in nervous and female complaints. 

The village, 3 / 4 M. in length, lies in a beautiful wooded ravine, j 
Annual number of visitors upwards of 5000. The Paulinenberg, 
Platte, Braunchesberg, the ruins of (2 M.) Adolphseck (Kling), and 
(6 M.) Hohenstein (Ziemer) are favourite resorts. — Good road from 





-a: 




a DARMSTADT. 



Mam Zheui jBahnJutf X 2. 3. 

2. JW; fiirEandcl u.lnjhatrw A. 4-. 

3. JVerc* fUrSUddeutsehland A 3. 
♦ . Cabinets BibTiotkek dcs Grossh.Q. 3. 

Caseroen: 

5. AptiTlepie B. <>. 

6. Jn/antcrie D. 2. 

7. Jteitcrei B. *. 
3 Oraim.cLLaiidm'ii/in C. 2. 

Henrietta Caroline 

9 Orrrmashtm D. 3 

10.:SWfrf«7Z B 2. 

1 L JanzTei. Gcbdiidc B C 2. 3. 
Krrchen: 

UJathoUseheF. C* 



13. 6'ehlasskzrche 
If. Stadtcccpclle 
15 SixidtTztnche 
16. FrQimaicrarlogQ 
ifotniniente : 
17 '. ludwigsdide. 

18 . Philxpp d. drossm. 

19. Gtwrgd Frommen 

20. deriet cmnxai 

Palais: 

21. rf . Prinzen JZnrctn d an 

22. .. Git? 

23. day Grosshcrzoqs 
21 dJPpimenZiictwig 

2o. Polizaarvrwattiaig 
26. Pohrtcchnicicni 



C. 2. 

D. 3. 
C D 3 

B. 1 

C. 3. 
C. 2. 
C. 2 
B ±. 

B8. 
C 4 

c. a 
c*. 

D. 3. * 



17. Ptwt B 3. 

IZ.Kathhaiis C.3. 

29. &£Zoss C.2.3. 

30. Stcbidehans B. 3. 
31. 7to<7> B.2. 
32 Zeuqhaus C. 2, 

JfoteLs: 

a. Traube C 3. 

Ii JarrnstddtvrJIur B 3 

c. SZWef. A. 3 

d PrmzCarl D. 3. 

e. ffitelde la Poste C 3. 

Jtestauraticmeiiu. CaUee . 
f Jiffl&f.. C. 3. 111. #amm C 2 
g Ptti* B. 3. L Stengel A. 8. 



D arm stadt F.d. Vt'noiier. 



DARMSTADT. 



2.9. Route, 167 



Schwalbach through the Wisperthal to Lorch (19 M.) on the Rhine 
(see p. 92). 

From Schwalbach to Wiesbaden (diligence twice daily, 15 Sgr. ; 
omnibus twice daily in 2 hrs., 1 fl.) there are two roads. The new road, 
now almost exclusively used, ascends by the course of the Aar to Blei- 
denstadt and Hahn, then quits the valley, and traverses wooded heights 
towards the S.E. The old road crosses the Hohe Wurzel (near which 
is the Rothekreuzkopf , 1673 ft. , a fine point of view) and passes the 
Ghausseehaus (1184 ft.), where it unites with the road from Schlangenbad 
to Wiesbaden (p. 166). 

29. From Frankfort to Heidelberg. 

Railway (station, see p. 147) to Darmstadt in l \i — 3 |4 hr. (fares 1 fl. 
6, 42, 30 kr.) , to Heidelberg or Mannheim in 2—3 hrs. (fares 3 fl. 33, 2 fl. 
21, 1 fl. 33 kr.). Express fares higher. Omnibuses and cabs, see p. 147. 
Seats on the left (E.) side of the train should be selected for the view. 

The country between Frankfort and Darmstadt is unattractive. 

Darmstadt (*Traube (PI. a) ; Darmstadter Hof (PI. b) ; *Post (PI. c), 
near the theatre; *H6tel KOhler (PI. e) , at the station; Prinz Karl 
(PI. d). XJochheim's Baths, adjoining the last hotel. — Restaurants: 
SlengeVs, opposite the station; Biihler; Finck; Stamm), the capital of the 
Grand Duchy of Hessen , with 39,605 inhab. (chiefly Protestants, 
including t'; e suburb of Bessungen) , was the capital of the Graf- 
schaft of Katzenelnbogen , and a place of no importance , down to 
the close of the 18th cent. The Grand Duke Ludwig I. (d. 1830) 
erected the new part of the town with its handsome streets , and to 
him Darmstadt is indebted for its prosperity. In 1844 a Statue (PI. 
17), was erected to him by his 'grateful people.' It is borne by a 
column, 140 ft. in height, the summit of which affords a survey of 
the town and the flat environs (fee 18 kr.). 

The Schloss (PI. 29) , most of which dates from the middle of 
last century, is at the end of the Rhein-Strasse , which leads from 
the station into the town. The tower contains musical bells , which 
play every hour. The valuable Library consists of 450,000 vols., 
some MSS., and typographical curiosities (open 9 — 12 a. m. and 
2 — 4 p. m.). The other ^Collections (pictures, antiquities, natural 
history, costumes, and coins) are open onTuesd. , Wed. , Thursd., 
and Frid. 11 — 1, on Sund. 10—1. 

Upper Floor. The ^Picture Gallery contains about 700 paintings 
(catalogue 45 kr.), many of which are of great value. Room I.: Modern 
pictures from the middle of last century to the present day, by Schmidt, 
Seekatz, Schiitz, Morgenstern, <fec. , the earlier of which should be inspect- 
ed in order to contrast them with the most modern school. To the 1. on 
entering (1st transverse partition): 126. Schilbach (d. 1851), Roman land- 
scape. Second partition : *136. ' Schirmer (d. 1863), Heidelberg Castle ; 148, 
149, 150, 151. Achenbach, Four small Dutch landscapes. Principal wall: 
(W.) 56. Seekatz (d. 1768), Twelfth Night; *157. H. Hofmann, Betrayal 
of the Saviour; *129. Steinbriick, Genovefa; 145. Schon (d. 1867), Sunday 
morning in the Black Forest; (N.) Radl (d. 1852), 121. Cronberg, and 122. 
Falkenstein, both from the Taunus* 1 Mts. (pp. 161, 162); 59. Seekatz, 
Children at the poultry yard ; (E.) Schdnberger, Sunset. — Room II. : Part- 
ition : *46. Enhuber (d. 1867), Court day; *137. Lessing , Evening scene 
on the Moselle. Principal wall: (W.) *134. Morgenstem (d. 1867), Scene 
on the Isar ; 155. Noack, Religious disputation between Luther and Zwingli 



16S Route -29. 



DARMSTADT . From Frankfc 1 1 



at Marburg: (N.) Lucas (d. 1863) , 132. Italian harvest scene, 130. The 
Melibocus seen from the Odenwald : 156. Schireich, Autumn morning: 154. 



Becker, Glacier lake in X) 
tition : Lucas Cranach (d. 
denburg in the character 
be in the Younger (d. 1543). 
Principal wall : fW.) 1S9 



(1538) . Enthron 
16S. Slephan Lochner (d. 
Presentation in the Temp] 
(N.) '216. Reliquary from I 
Schongauer (d. 1488), Scon 
Body of Christ under The 
tition: 273. Quintin Mass] 
(d. 1641). Portrait of the painter j 
1600), Portrait of a surgeon: 271. 
partition: 337. Pn. de CUampaigi 
Potter (?) (d. 1654), Interior of a 
ters (?) , Portrait of a jeweller; c 
Rubens id. 16£0) 3 Diana with ht 
nymph with the red robe i ; the i 
his second ; 386, 3S7. Eckhout (d. 
lyn (d. 1715) , Alexander and Di 
ins: scene. — Room V. : (_X.) 25 
~34S. Rembrandt id. 1669), Portrait 
man; (S.) 336. Ph. de Champaigne, C 
Portrait of a clergyman; 340. Alb 
Room YI. Front of partition : 37U. 
man: 315. Hunthorst (d. 166S), Portr 
Rembrandt (V). Woman cleansing 1 
^347. Christ about to be scourged : - 
350. A. van GelcUr, Presentation in t 
Portrait of William III. of England 



>rway. — Room III. Old German School. Par- 
1553), 'J 44. Portrait of Cardinal Albert of Bran- 
[>£ St. Jerome ; 249. Virgin and Child. 2'26. Hol- 
Bust of a youth ; 188. Claeissens, Mary and Child. 

School of Memling , perhaps Gerard Horebout 
aid Child; 185. Unknown master, Dying Mary: 
1451) , the master of the Dombild at Cologne, 
e; 190. Unknown master. Mary on a seat of turf ; 
he church of Wolfskehlen, date 1500: (E.) 217. 
rging of Christ; 224. Holbein the Elder (d. 1524), 
cross. — Boom IV. Netherlands masters. Par- 
Portrait of a man and child : 32S. Van Duck 



1674), 
genes : 
>. Mie 



Room VII. 
1745). Ports 
jg, View o 



Bns 



>anisb 
Titian 
& Loo 



ciples at Emmaus. — 
489 , 490. Van Loo (d. 
Lesczinska : 511. Sonn 
window opposite) : (X 
Scheffer (d. L809 1 . 501. 
tff Pari-. — Boom VIII. 
1675) , Landscape ; *52 
Velasquez, A child: (S. 
the Infant Jesus; 527- Correggio 
First partition (front) : *641. Mi 
Da Novellara (d. 1587), Ho~ 
A' a _ a : 549 . G uido Rent (d. 
15. 4).' St. Michael; 554. Ban 
ness ; 470. Claude Lor rain (1 
555. Domenichino id. 1641), 
Velasquez, Portrait of Cosmo 
trait of a genera); 519. Titia 
[N.) 639. Velasquez, Mother i 
Peti (d. 1624). St. Paul: *52 
ness: 525. After Raphael, Ma 



Liellyn: 275. Sic. Xeuchatel\&. 
el (d. 1569) , Landscape. Next 
), Bust, of a man: 395. Paul 
incipalwall: (W.) 385. Wuch- 
>/ck, Portrait of a lady: -296. 
returning from the chase : the 
st wife, the one with the hare 
raits: (X.) 415. Erasmus Qitel- 
301. Snyders id. 1657), Hunt- 
id. 1651), Bust of a woman: 
of his wife Saskia; 363. Tenters, Old 
hrist on the Mt. of Olives; 297. Rubens, 
irt thtyp (d. 1691). Shepherd-boy. — 
r an der Heist (d. 1670), Bust of an old 
lit of a lady. Back of partition: 378. 
er boy's head. Principal wall: (X.) 
369. Van der Heist, Portrait of a ladv ; 
Lie Temple: (S.) 424. Seholken (d. 1706), 
by torch-light : 349. Eckhout, The dis- 
French works of inferior value: (E.) 
lit of Louis XV. and his Queen Maria 
Darmstadt in 1746 (taken from the 
I i d. 1743) . Bust of Cardinal Fleury : 
irgyman, 508. Bust ofPethion, mayor 



Itali; 



(?) (d. 16S2 
Family , formerly 
1624) . Penitent Magdalen 
ol. Schidone (d. 1616), St. 
>82). Landscape by sunset 



sters : (X.) 472. Poussin (d. 
leeping Venus; (E.) 638. 
619), Madonna instructing 
lg shepherd. — Room IX. 
rthusian monk : 531. 
ibuted to Perino del 
ie ; 514. Perugino (d. 
John in the wilder- 
Back of partition: 



Peter den"sin£ Chri-t. Second partition: 5*0. 
II. de Medicis : 529. Bordone (d. 1571) , Por- 
n, Portrait, of an elderly man. Principal wall: 
f a dead child kneeling before a bishop ; 560. 
). Raphael , (d. 1520) , St. John in the wilder- 
lonna and Child: 469. Valentin (d. 1634), Mu- 
sical party. &42. Unknown master, Angel escorting a maiden (ascribed to 
Primaticcio) ; (E.) 556. Domenichino , Xathan before David; 532. Paolo 
Veronese , Marriage at Cana , an old reduced copy of the large picture in 
the Louvre, perhaps by Paolo Farinati ; Guercino, (d. 1666), 564. Penitent 
Magdalene, and (S., by the window) ^563. St. Francis of Assi^i. 

First Floor. 1st Room: Roman Antiquities; a * mosaic pavement. 
30 ft. in length, 20 ft. in breadth, excavated near Vilbel in 1S49; tools 
from the ancient lake - dwellings , &c. — 2nd Room: Cork Models of Ro- 
man edifices and Rhenish castles . ancient ornaments in gold and silver. 



to Heidelberg. DARMSTADT. 



29. Route. 169 



goblets, enamel, *ivory and alabaster carving, stained glass, coins. — 3rd 
Room: Armour and weapons. — 4lb Room: Model of the palace, co- 
stumes and utensils of foreign nations , &c. — 5th Room : Drawings and 
engravings , ancient and modern ; among the former are the sketches of 
Rottmann for the Italian landscapes in the arcades at Munich. 

Other rooms contain the valuable Collection of Minerals, Conchylia, 
and * Fossils: e. g. antediluvian animals found near Eppelsheim in Rhein- 
hessen, and the skeleton of a mastodon, 13 ft. in height, purchased at Lon- 
don in 1857. — Two side-rooms contain the Natural History Cabinet (ad- 
mirable ^collection of butterflies). 

To the N. of the Palace is the Herrengarten , or public grounds. 
To the r. on entering it is the Theatre (PL 31), "burned down in 
1871 , to the 1. a military magazine. Between these are Statues 
(PL 18, 19) of the Landgrave Philip the Generous (d. 1567), and 
his son George I. (d. 1590), founder of the Grand-ducal family. In 
the Herrengarten to the r. is the tomb of the Landgravine Henrietta 
Carolina (d. 1774), mother of the queen of Frederick William II. 
of Prussia ; the unpretending urn erected by Frederick the Great 
bears the inscription; 'Femina sexu, ingenio vir\ 

The modern Bom. Cath. Church (PI. 12) in the Wilhelminen-Platz 
contains the well executed marble sarcophagus of the Grand Duchess 
Mathilde of Hessen (d. 1862), with recumbent figure of the princess 
by Widnmann. On the W. side of the Platz is the handsome Palace 
of Prince Ludwig (PL 24). 

To the S., in the Wilhelminen-Strasse , is the Palace of Prince 
Charles (PL 12), containing the celebrated * Madonna with the fa- 
mily of Burgomaster Meyer of Bale , by Holbein , ascertained since 
the Holbein Exhibition at Dresden in 1871, to be the original work 
of the master. 

To the E. of Darmstadt are beautiful and extensive woods. Picturesque 
walks (N.E.) to the shooting-lodge and park of Krcmichstein (3 M.) 5 (S.E.) 
to the * Ludwig 'seiche, or Ludwig's Oak (4^2 M.), whence an extensive view 
of the Odenwald, Spessart, Vogelsberg, Taunus, and Melibocus is obtained; 
(S.) to the * Ludwig shbfie and Marienhblie (2 M.), and to * Frankenstein 
(7 M.)- farther S.W. to Seeheim and (l 1 ^ hr.) Jugenheim (p. 172), or S. to 
the (6 M.) Felsberg (p. 173). 

From Darmstadt t[o Mayence by direct railway in 3 / 4 — i 1 ^ hr. 
(fares 1 fl. 42, 1 fl., or 36 kr.). Stations Weiterstadt, Grossgerau, Nauheim, 
Bischofslieim , Gustavsburg . Country sandy and flat. The railway crosses 
the Rhine near the Mainspitze (p. 102) by an iron bridge in an oblique 
direction, intersects the Mayence and Ludwigshafen line at Weissenau (p. 
102) on the 1. bank , and finally descends in a curve through the Neue 
Anlage (p. 107) to the station of Mayence (p. 101). — From Darmstadt to 
Aschaffenburg ', see Baedekers S. Germany. 

From Darmstadt to Worms by railway in l 1 j 2 hr. (fares 2 fl. 30, 
1 fl. 50, or 51 kr.). Several small stations; then Gernsheim (Karpfen; 
Weisses Ross ) , a busy little town on the Rhine, the birth-place of Peter 
&clioffe)\ one of the inventors of printing , to whom a statue in sandstone 
was erected in 1836. From stat. Hofheim a branch-line diverges to Lorsch 
and Bensheim (reached in 25 min. ; p. 171). Stat. Rosengarten ' , the ter- 
minus , is connected with stat. Worms-H&fen by a bridge of boats and a 
steam-ferry, and is ltyj M. distant (rail, in 6 min.) from the station of the 
Mayence-Worms line (p. 226). 

From Darmstadt to Erbach railway in 2 hrs. (fares 2 fl. 18, 1 11. 
24, 57 kr.). Stations Nieder- and Ober-Ramstadi !, Reinhcim •, Lengfeld, 
Wiebelsbach (branch line hence to Babenhausen and Ascltajfenburg), Hdchst 



170 Route 29. 



AtERBAC'H. 



From Frankfort 



(the line now traverses the pretty Miimlingthol). Miimling-Grinnbarh, Konig, 
Z-:Il , Afichelstadt ( water-cure estab. , terms 18 — 30 fl. per week) , Erbach 
(see p. 175). 

On the mountains to the 1. of stat. Eberstadt rises the handsome 
ruin of Frankenstein:, beyond Bickenbach(p. 172, station for Jugen- 
lieini). the zinc-covered tower of the Alsbacher Schloss is visible. 

At stat. Zwingenberg (*Ldwe, moderate) begins the picturesque 
Bergstrasse. the road leading hence to Heidelberg. 

The ^Bergstrasse runs through orchards and pleasant villages, along 
a range of hills, partly wooded and partly covered with vineyards, and 
here and there crowned with ruined castles. To the W. between the road 
and the Rhine , a distance of 10 — 12 M. . extends a wide and fertile plain. 
Though wanting in water, this district is one of the most beautiful in 
Germany : but the railway-traveller will scarcely be able to appreciate it. 
The name of 'Bergstrasse" applies to the W. slopes of the Odenwald , and 
is not confined to the road (Strasse). One of the highest points is the 
^Melibocus, or Malehen (1679 ft.), easily ascended from Jugenheim (i 1 j 2 hr.) 
or Zwingenberg (1 hr.). Guide (unnecessary) 24 kr. . for the whole day 
i fL The traveller should ascend by Jugenheim, and descend by the 
Auerbacher Schloss and Auerbach; or proceed from the Auerbacher Schloss 
by the route described at p. 173, via the Fiirstenlager and Schonberg, to 
Bensheim. The former excursions, allowing for a short stay on the Meli- 
bocus , will take about the latter, from the Auerbacher Schloss on- 

wards , 2 l |2 hrs. The ascent of the Melibocus may also be made by car- 
riage (4 fl.): the traveller may then drive to the Felsberg (p. 173), and 
back by Reichenbach (p. 173) to Zwingenberg (whole round 6 fl.). 

Pedestrians without a guide should attend to the following directions: 
The road leads E. from the ''Lowe 1 at Zwingenberg and ascends the hill; 
after 8 min. the path follows the water-conduit to the r. , leads over the 
Luzieherg. and in 25 min. more regains the carriage-road, which is furnish- 
ed with direction-posts. Where the high wood terminates, a path leads 
to the I., by a young beech-wood, to the tower (80 ft. high) on the sum- 
mit, erected in 1777 by Lewis IX., Landgrave of Hessen. 

The Melibocus consists entirely of granite. The view embraces the 
valley of the Rhine from Speyer to Mayence. the Vosges, the Donnersberg, 
and the Main as far as the Taunus and* Vogelsberg. A little to the W, of, 
and about 20 ft. lower than the tower is the best point of view . which 
commands a prospect of the entire plain from Mannheim to Darmstadt. 
Key of the tower at the forester's at Zwingenberg, where enquiry should 
be made , but in fine weather he is generally on the spot (fee for 1 pers. 
9. a party 30 kr.). — From the Melibocus to the Auerbacher Schloss di- 
rect in 3 ( 4 hr. 

Next stat. Auerbach. (* Krone, R. 48, D. 48 kr. ; Nack's restau- 
rant at the mill in the village . and at the SSchloss' in favourable 
weather; refreshments at the Fftrstentoger) , a picturesque village 
with a small chateau and park in the vicinity , the property of the 
Grand-Duke, is a favourite summer resort, and affords good head- 
quarters for excursions in the W. part of the Odenwald (p. 172). 

The * Auerbacher Schloss ( 3 / 4 hr. from the Melibocus . same dis- 
tance from Auerbach). situated on an eminence (1053 ft.}, 
is -aid to have been founded by Charlemagne. It was afterwards 
the property of the monastery of Lorsch (see p. 171). then of the 
Electorate of May e nee. In 1674 it was blown up by Turenne. The 
two towers stood till 1806. when one of them fell, but it was rebuilt 
in 1853. View less extensive, but more picturesque than that from 
the Melibocus. The custodian (usually on the spot) opens the door of 
the tower (fee 9—30 kr.). 



to Heidelberg, 



"WEINHEIN. 



29. Route. 171 



A broad road leads through a beech-wood from the castle to the Hoch- 
stdtter Thai , by a mineral spring and a mill , to the JVeun Aussichten (9 
views), the Champignon, and the Filrstenlager (S 1 ^ M.) $ thence to Schbnberg 
(i l \<2 M.) ; delightful view from the garden of the chateau and the church. 
Then through the Schonberg valley to Bensheim (li| 2 M.). 

Bensheim (Sonne; Post; Traube), a busy town in a picturesque 
situation, was besieged unsuccessfully during eleven days in 1504, 
as an inscription on the gateway records. 

From Bensheim to Rosengarten ( Worms) railway in 35 min. 
(comp. p. 169). First stat. Lorsch, on the Weschnitz, with ruins of a Monastery, 
founded by Charlemagne, to which in 788 he banished Tassilo, Duke of 
Bavaria, who had been condemned to death as a traitor. The Church, 
was consecrated in 1130, but portions of the nave only are now extant. 
In front of it is the old entrance to the monastery, now a chapel, erected 
between 876 and 882 by Lewis III. , son of Lewis the German , with curi- 
ously formed imposts and inlaid walls. King Lewis the German, his son 
Lewis III. , and the Empress Cunigunde, wife of Emp. Conrad I. are in- 
terred at Lorsch, but the spot is unknown. The 'Bunte Capelle 1 at Lorsch, 
being the last resting-place of the founder of the German Empire, was 
highly revered in the middle ages, and was solemnly consecrated in 1053 
by Pope Leo IX. in person. The !Nibelungen-Lied represents these vaults 
as the burial-place of Sigfried and Queen Ute , mother of Chriemhilde). 

Near Heppenheim (*Halber Mond) to the 1. , on the road side, 
rises the Landberg , a hill crowned with three trees , where the 
Counts of Starkenburg held their tribunals. The church was found- 
ed by Charlemagne, according to an inscription bearing the date 
805. 

The Starkenburg (932 ft.) is ascended by a good path from Heppen- 
heim in 1 /a hr. It was erected in 1064 by an abbot of Lorsch , captured 
by the Swedes~and Spaniards in the Thirty Years' 1 War, besieged in vain 
by Turenne in 1645 and in 1674, and was only recently quite abandoned. 
It gives its name to a province of Hessen. Fine view from the lofty 
square tower. 

Beyond Heppenheim is the large Lunatic A. sylum of the district. 
The train now enters the dominions of Baden. Stat. Hemsbach, 
with a villa of Baron Rothschild. Near Weinheim (*Pfdlzer Hof y 
Y2 M. from the stat.; Carlsberg , in the market-place) the train 
crosses the Weschnitz. The town, with a handsome new church , is 
the most beautifully situated on the Bergstrasse. Its towers and 
fosses, and the old buildings of the Templar and Teutonic knights, 
bear testimony to its former importance. The conspicuous new build- 
ing is a manufactory of leather wares. Higher up is Bender's School 
for Boys. Bender's Hydropathic Establishment and a Reformatory 
for Children are thriving institutions. — Hubberger , the best wine 
of the Bergstrasse, is produced near Weinheim. 

To the E. rises the old castle of Windeck (685 ft.), the property of the 
monastery of Lorsch in the 12th cent. , afterwards that of the Palatinate, 
commanding a remarkably beautiful view. Delightful walks through the 
valleys of Gorxheim and Birkenau. At the entrance to the village of 
Gorxheim , to the 1. of the road, 3 M. from Weinheim, is a stone to the 
memory of peasants of the district, Avho were driven out of their valleys 
and cruelly massacred by the French in 1799. 

At Gross-Sachsen, a village said to have been founded by Charle- 
magne, the line leaves the Bergstrasse and turns S.E. toLadenburg 
(Adler), the Roman Lupodunum, the walls, towers, and fine old 



172 RouteSL). JUGENHEIM. 



Gothic church of which give it an air of importance. The Neckar is 
crossed here by a bridge of red sandstone. Then stat. Neckars- 
hausen. 

Stat. Friedrichsfeld is the junction for Mannheim (p. 182). Hei- 
delberg, see p. 1 76. 

The Bergstrasse is most attractive between Weinheim and Hei- 
delberg ( i'2 M.), and is recommended to the notice of pedestrians. 
The *High Road leads through (3 M.) Gross - Sachsen (good red 
wine) and (3 M. ) Schriesheim . where the Strahlenburg is seen in 
the background. A column to the r. in the plain marks the site 
of a Roman villa discovered in 17(36. Then (3 3 / 4 M.) Handschuchs- 
heim (*Ochs) and ( i 1 2 M.) Neuenheim (Rose), where the Neckar 
is reached, and Heidelberg (R. 31), with its imposing castle and the 
Konigsstuhl in the rear, first becomes visible. To the 1. of the road 
rises the Hedigenberg (p. i>'2). Bridge over the Neckar. see p. 181. 

30. The Odenwald. 

C'ornp. Map. p. no. 

One dap: From Bickenbaeh to the Felsberg 2 hrs. , thence to Linden- 
fels 3 1 j2 hrs. , and drive in 2 1 t o hrs. through the valley of the Weschnitz 
to Birkenau and Weinheim; or, if possible . walk from Birkenau to Wein- 
heim over the Wagenberg^ i 1 2 hr. 

Three days: 1st. As above to Linden/els; 2nd. Cross the Dromm 
to Waldmichelbacft in 3 1 2 hrs.. thence by Ober- and Unfer-Sehonmattemcag 
to Hirschhorn (or hv Schdnau to Xeckarsieinach 5 hrs.) : 3rd. From 

Hirschhom to Xeckarsieinach 2 hrs. , thence to Heidelberg 2 1 | 2 hrs. 

Four daps: 1st. As above to Linden fels ; 2nd. By Gumpen to Rei chels- 
heim l 1 2 hr., drive through Gersprenz and Michelstadt in 3 (or walk through 
Ostem and Mossau in 3C hrs.) to Erbo.ch; 3rd. To Beerulden 2»| 2 hrs. 
(better drive thus far), then through the Gammelsbacher Thai to Eberbaeh; 
4th. To Hirschhom 2, Neckarsteinach 2, and Heidelberg 2^2 hrs. 

The Odenwald. the wooded mountain - district between Darm- 
stadt and Heidelberg, is about 40 M. in length and 24—30 M. in 
breadth. Its finest points are well worth visiting, although, like its 
inns, they are inferior to those of the Black Forest. 

The best known summit of the Odenwald is the Melibocus (p. 
170\ usually ascended from Jugenheim or Zwingenberg. 

Bickenbaeh (next station to Zwingenberg) is the best starting 
point for a ramble in this district. Thence to the E. to (ifo M.. 
post-omnibus 3 times daily. 9 kr.) Jugenheim (*Rindfuss\ *Loos), 
picturesquely situated, and a favourite summer resort, in the middle 
of which a road through a gate to the r. ascends through well kept 
grounds, past the ruins of a monastery , to the chateau of Hedigen- 
berg. the residence of Prince Alexander of Hessen (fine view from 
the terrace). The pedestrian should next ascend to the r. through 
the grounds, and. at the finger-post indicating the way r Wdhel- 
minenweg ' ) to the Felsberg , turn to the 1. round the hill, whence a 
pleasing glimpse of the chateau and the plain of the Khine is ob- 
tained. After 1/4 hr. more, at another finger-post, the path to 




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tfttmur-f 



BeaslieiiajJ 



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i i 3 4 5Edoi,xhtisc+% 



REICHENBACH. 30. Route. 173 



the 1. must be ascended, which in l / 2 hr. leads to a third post. 
About 300 yds. farther a path diverges to the r. from the car- 
riage-road, passes a pine-woocL, and leads (in 20 min.) to the fo- 
rester's house on the *Felsberg (1624 ft.) (refreshments and a few 
beds). The view to the E. embraces a great part of the Odenwald, 
and extends to the Spessart and AscharTenburg (much more exten- 
sive than from the Melibocus); to the W. andN. lie the plains of the 
Rhine and Main as far as the Donnersberg andTaunus, but partially 
hidden by the Melibocus and Frankenstein. Good path from the 
Felsberg to the Melibocus (1^2 nr 0; tne Auerbacher Schloss (p. 
170) may also be reached hence in 1^2 hr. The beautiful road to it 
(the l Neun Krumme'') leads first through wood, then across fields to 
Balkhausen, then to the 1. through a wood which it finally skirts. 

Near the Forester's house (5 min.) lies the Altar stein, a nearly 
cubic block of syenite ; lower down, in a small gully, is the L Rie- 
sensciule\ a columm of the same material , 34 ft. in length. Both 
must have been quarried on the spot, when and by whom is un- 
known. The Felsenmeer ('sea of rocks'), on the side of a hill on 
the road to Reichenbach, 5 min. from the Riesensaule, consists of 
weathered and rounded blocks of syenite scattered in huge and 
confused masses, covering an area of 500 paces by 200. This phe- 
nomenon is accounted for by the smaller and looser masses having 
been washed away by the rain, the larger being left behind. 

The path now descends rapidly to Reichenbach (*Traube), a 
village on the Lauterbach, 4!/ 2 M. to the N. E. of Bensheim (p. 171). 
[Travellers wishing to return hence to the Bergstrasse should not 
omit to visit Schdnberg (*Rettig) (beautiful view from the church), 
and the castle and grounds of Count Erbach-Schonberg.] 

The traveller crosses the brook here, and follows the high road 
which leads up the valley to Lindenfels , but quits it again after 
3 / 4 M., and ascends a path to the r., past some old copper mines, 
to the Hohenstein , a group of quartzose rocks commanding a very 
pleasing prospect. After 5 min. more , ascend to the 1. , then 
(25 min.) pass some houses of Unter-Reidelbach, and return to the 
above-mentioned main road (!/ 4 hr.), which is not again to be quit- 
ted. The walk from Reichenbach to Lindenfels is picturesque, but 
without much variety. 

About iy 4 M. from the point where the traveller regains the 
high road, he passes through the hamlet of Kolmbach, and about 
3 / 4 M. farther reaches a group of trees with benches , whence a 
remarkably fine view of this wooded and fertile district is enjoyed : 
Lindenfels with its imposing ruin stands picturesquely in the fore- 
ground ; beyond is the broad valley of the Weschnitz, thickly sprin- 
kled with villages ; while the background is formed by mountains, 
above which rises the tower on the Konigsstuhl near Heidelberg. 

The road now leads through beautiful beech-wood, interspersed 
with boulders of granite, to (3 M.) Lindenfels (Ilarfe), pictures- 



174 Route 30. 



BROMM. 



Odenwatd. 



quely situated on an eminence, and commanded by a considerable 
ruin. The castle, formerly the property of the Palatinate, was dis- 
mantled by Turenne in 1674. Near it are black-lead mines. 

On the beautiful wooded mountain to the E. is the *Ludwigs- 
hohe, a small temple, 20 min. from Lindenfels, which commands 
a fine view. The prospect is more extensive from a point Y4 hr. 
higher up. 

From Lindenfels to Hepp enheim (p. 171) (at first with guide, 
18 kr.), in 2 l \2 hrs. ; the path leads by Eulsbach, Erlenbach, Mitt ershau sen, 
and Kirschhausen. 

From Linde nfe Is to Benshei m (p. 171) picturesque road by 
SchUerbach, Seidenbuch, Knoden, and Schdnberg (p. 173) in 3 1 |2 hrs. 

F r o m Lindenfels to Wei n h e i m by drive (4 fl. ) of 2^2 hrs. through 
the valley of the Weschnitz. Pedestrians should descend to the S. of 
Lindenfels; after 10 min. the path leads to the 1. through the wood; in 
25 min. more, over a slight, fir-clad eminence; and in 10 min. more 
reaches Fiirth {Lowe ; beer at Blesses, opposite), a small town on the Wesch- 
nitz, 12 M. from Weinheim. The footpath (shorter than the road) leads 
by Fahrbach in 1 hr. to Rimbach (*Nic. Geist) ; then by the road through 
M&rlenbach, Reissen, and BirTcenau to Weinheim. 

Between Birkenau (Birkenauer Hof) and (2 M.) Weinheim 
the road winds through the romantic valley of the Weschnitz, 
enclosed by granite rocks. Path over the * Wagenberg (iy 2 hr.) far 
preferable (guide necessary as far as the point where the wood is 
quitted). This walk commands a series of most beautiful views, 
first of the entire W T eschnitz-Thal to Lindenfels, with the basaltic 
peak of Otzberg, resembling a ruined castle, in the background; the 
broad valley of the Rhine, with Weinheim and Windeck in the 
foreground, and a great part of the Palatinate as far astheDonners- 
berg and the Haardt Mts. then gradually come in sight. The 
Melibocus and Felsberg at the beginning, and the Wagenberg at the 
end, are the finest points in the Odenwald tour. 



Travellers desirous of spending several days in the Odenwald, 
may remain the first day at Lindenfels and ascend the Ludwigs- 
hohe (see above) , and proceed next morning to (3 M.) Fiirth. The 
footpath thence to the Dromm can hardly be mistaken (safer to take 
a guide as far as the wood, l fa hr.). After 20 min. turn to the r., 
and after 5 min. more follow a narrow footpath to the r., which for 
a short distance skirts the w r ood , crosses the brook , then enters the 
wood and ascends; after 25 min. a large meadow in the wood is 
passed; in 25 min. more the pedestrian reaches the summit of 
the Bromm (1834 ft.) , one of the highest points of the Odenwald, 
commanding a good survey of the valley of the Weschnitz and the 
distant plain of the Rhine. The house on the summit must then be 
passed, and the top of the mountain followed (10 min. from the house 
there is a fine view of the valley ol the Rhine from some rocks 
among the bushes to the r.). Then a gradual descent to Wald- 
michelbach (^Gartner, near the Prot. church). 

From Waldmichelbach the traveller follows the high road to 



Odenwald, 



ERBACH. 



30. Route. 175 



Ober-Schdnmattenwag , where he should leave it, and walk through 
the grassy valley of the Lax by Unter-Schonmattenwag , Corsika, 
and Langenthal to (10'/2 M.) Hirschhorn. The road cannot be 
missed. Another road leads from Waldmichelbach by Siedelsbrunn, 
and Heiligkreuzsteinach to Schbnau (12 M.), an old town standing 
on the ruins of a once rich and celebrated Cistercian monastery, 
founded in 1136, and presented in 1560 by Elector Palatine 
Frederick III. to some French refugees who built the village. From 
Schonau through the romantic valley of the Steinach to Neckar- 
steinach 3 M. 

From Waldmichelbach an interesting road leads by Siedelsbrunn 
to (4^2 M.) Ob erab steinach , and through the Lohrbacher Thai to 
(4i/ 2 M.) Birkenau (p. 174). 



The Eastern parts of the Odenwald are most conveniently 
visited with the aid of the railway mentioned at p. 169. 

Erbach (Burg Wildenstein ; Krone), a town with 2500 inhab. 
in the Miimlingthal , is the principal place on the estates of Count 
Erbach. The Schloss of the Count contains a ^Collection of armour, 
once worn by well-known historical characters (Philip le Bon of 
Burgundy, Emp. Maximilian I., Gustavus Adolphus , Wallenstein, 
and others), old fire-arms , relics, etc. In the chapel is preserved 
the stone coffin in which Eginhard, son-in-law of Charlemagne, his 
wife Emma, and her sister Gisela once reposed. The Counts of 
Erbach trace their descent from this alliance of Eginhard with the 
emperor's daughter. An ancient helmet found on the battle-field 
of Cannae is also interesting (fee 24 kr.). 

From Erbach to Lin denfel s (p. 173) 15 M. The traveller may 
make this excursion on foot via Obermossau, Ostern, and (lO 1 ^ M.) Reichels- 
heim. The carriage-road to Reichelsheim leads by Michelstadt (p. 170) and 
Gersprenz, a drive of 3 hrs. 

Reichelsheim, a prettily situated village, is commanded by the conspicu- 
ous castle of Reichenberg. 

In a wild and sequestered spot among the mountains , and surrounded 
by woods , 1J2 hr. to the N. of Reichelsheim , are the ruins of the castle 
of Rodensieih , popularly believed to be haunted by the 'Wild Huntsman - ' 
and his associates when war is imminent. An official register of these 
supposed apparitions was actually kept from 1743 to 1796. 

From Erbach to (T 1 ^ M.) Beerfelden (*Breimer), and down 
the Gammelsbacher Thai to (772 M.) Eberbach , driving is recom- 
mended as the valley presents little variety. From Eberbach (*Lei~ 
ninger Hof; * Krone) the Katzenbuckel (2155 ft.), the highest 
point of the Odenwald , may be ascended. The tower (keys at the 
forester's at Katzenbach) commands a fine prospect of the valley of 
the Neckar , Baden , Wurtemberg as far as the Alb , and the Black 
Forest. 

From Eberbach the road descends the narrow and romantic valley 
of the Neckar, bounded by precipitous and densely wooded mountains, 
to (6 M.) 



176 Route 31. 



HEIDELBERG. 



Hirschhorn (*Zum Naturalisten) , a small town most pictures- 
quely situated at the foot of a lofty sandstone rock crowned with 
the ancient castle of the famous barons of Hirschhorn , who 
founded the Carmelite monastery at the foot of the hill in 1406. 
The tastefully constructed chapel of the latter, with its pointed 
towers and numerous tombstones of the noble family of the founder, 
is still preserved. The Erschheimer Capelle, standing a considerable 
height above the Neckar, also contains tombstones of the family. 
Charming retrospect of the town and castle from the road to (6 M.) 

Neckarsteinach (p. 182) (*Harfe), on the Neckar, commanded 
by four castles, one of which , the Mittelburg , has been restored in 
the ancient style, while Schadeck, the highest, popularly termed 
the 'Schwalbennest' , stands on the brink of a quarry. The tower 
of the latter commands a beautiful view of the attractive valley of 
the Neckar. From Neckarsteinach by Neckargemund and Schlier- 
bach to the Wolfsbrunnen and the Castle of Heidelberg, see p. 182. 

31. Heidelberg. 

The Railway Station at Heidelberg is somewhat dark and confined, 
and a delay sometimes takes place before the trains finally stop at the 
platform. Express trains only have through carriages , and as these are 
often shifted the traveller should observe the number of his compartment 
on alighting. The railway which ascends the Xeckarthal to Wiirzburg 
has a second station outside the Carlsthor. Omnibus and cabs, see 
below. 

Hotels. Near the Station: *Europaischer Hof (PI. a), on the Anlage; 
*H6tel Schrieder (PI. b), at the station, R. from 1 fl. 12, L. 24, B. 42. 
A. 30 kr. ; *Russischer Hof (PI. e), also a pension, and Victoria (PI. g), 
both in the Anlage. Second -class : Bairischer Hof (PI. i) , R. 1 fl. , A, 
24, L. 18 kr. ; *Darmst-a©ter Hof (PI. i) , similar charges:, *H6tel 
do Nord (PI. 1), with pension, unpretending. — In the Town (1 M. from the 
station): *Prinz Carl (PI. c) and *Adler (PI. d), both in the Kornmarkt; 
*Badischer Hof (PL f), Hauptstrasse ; *Hollandischer Hof (PI. h), near 
the bridge; charges in these, R. from 1 fl., B. 30—36, D. 1 fl. 12 kr. , A. 
24—30, L. 12—18 kr. — Second class: *Ritter (PI. m; p. 178), R. and 
A. 1 fl. , D. 1 fl. : Prinz Max (PI. n) and Pfalzer Hof in the Haupt- 
strasse, and Silberner Stern, in the Market, are well spoken of. 

Cafes. *Leers, also a restaurant, W. part of the Hauptstrasse: Wack- 
ier and Falke in the Market. Beer at the Bremeneck on the Burgweg, and 
at Mater's, near the Hotel Schrieder. 

Newspapers at the Museum in the Ludwigs-Platz , opposite the Uni- 
versity ; visitors introduced by a member. 

Theatre in winter (Sund., Wed., Frid.). 

Swimming Baths and others above and below the bridge (12 kr.). 

Omnibus to or from the station 6 kr., with luggage 12 kr. 

Cabs. (Stands at the railway stations, in the Ludwigsplatz by the 
University, and in the Kornmarkt). To or from the Railway-Stations , or 
for a drive within the town or beyond the bridge to Neuenheim and the 
Hirschgasse: 1 pers. 18, 2 pers. 30, 3 or 4 pers. 12 kr. each; between 11 
p. m. and 5 a. m. double fares; each heavv box 6 kr. — By time: l \\ hr. 
1—2 pers. 18 kr. each, 3—4 pers. 12 kr. each; per hour 1 fl. 12 or I fl. 
30 kr. — To the Castle (direct) 2 fl. ; to Hausacker, the Wolfsbrunnen, and 
back by the high road, 2 ft.; to the Castle by the Hausacker road 2 1 |-2 fl. ; 
Wolfsbrunnen and Castle 3 ft.; Castle and Molkencur 3^2 A. 5 Castle, Molken- 
c**r,'and Wolfsbrunnen, 4iJ 2 fl. ; Castle, Molkencur, Konigsstuhl, and Wolfs- 
brunnen, for 2 pers. 8 1 !?, o pers. or more 10 fl. 5 Schwetzingen , whole day 




Darmstadt., Ed. Wagner. 



HEIDELBERG. 



31. Route, 111 



half day 4 fl. ; Neckar steinach , whole day 8, half day 5 fl. 5 Neckar- 
steinach and back by the Wolfsbrunnen and Castle 9 or 6 fl. 

Donkeys to the Castle 24, back 12 kr. 5 to the Castle, Molkeneur , and 
back 1 fl. 12 kr. 5 to the Wolfsbrunnen 1 fl., and back 1 fl. 12 kr. 5 to the 
Konigsstuhl l 1 ^ fl., and back l 3 /^ fl. 5 to the Konigsstuhl , and back by the 
Wolfsbrunnen 2 fl. 24 kr. 5 for waiting 30 kr. per hour. Donkey - stands 
in the street leading from the Kornmarkt to the Castle. 

Valets de Place (unnecessary) to the Castle 48 kr. 5 Castle and Molken- 
eur 1 fl. 20; Konigsstuhl or Heiligenberg, half a day, fl. 

Telegraph Office in the Leopold-Strasse, Anlage. 

English Church in the Plock-Strasse, near the Anlage. 

Principal Attractions. If time be limited , proceed at once from the 
station to the Molkeneur and Castle (l 1 ^ hr.) as follows: by the ' AnlagerC 
(r.) opposite the station for about 240 paces , then by a path to the r. 
ascending through the ' Wolfshohle 1 in 20 min. to the Rondel ('crescent"), 
whence a broad road to the 1. leads to the 0/4 M.) Kan z el ('pulpit 1 ), 
commanding an excellent survey of the town and castle. A quarry is next 
reached (beyond which the descent to the 1. is to be avoided), then (1 M.) 
the Molkeneur , ( 3 \± M.) the Castle, and (}\\ M.) the Great Terrace. In re- 
turning, descend by the Burgweg, cross the Kornmarkt, and walk through 
the town past the theatre to the Anlagen, and thence to the station. 
A short street leads from the church in the market-place to the bridge 
(p. 181), another fine point of view. 

Few towns can vie with Heidelberg in the beauty of its en- 
virons and its historical interest. Count Palatine Otho of Wittelsbach 
(1228 — 53) transferred the seat of his government from Stahleck 
(p. 91), near Bacharach , to Heidelberg, which thus became the 
capital of the Palatinate, and continued so for nearly five centuries, 
until the Elector Charles Philip in 1720, owing to ecclesiastical dif- 
ferences with the Protestant citizens, transferred his seat to Mann-.' 
heim. Since 1802 Heidelberg has belonged to the Grand- Duchy 
of Baden. After the completion of the railways the influx of 
visitors greatly increased , and the town was rapidly extended. 
This venerable seat of the Muses has therefore now lost much of that 
poetic charm with which it was so long invested. 

Heidelberg forms, as it w T ere, the key of the mountainous valley 
of the Neckar , which below the town opens into the plain of the 
Bhine. The castle-hill, a spur of the loftier Konigsstuhl , leaves 
but little space for the 1200 houses situated between its base and 
the river. The town (19,910 inhab. , l / s Rom. Cath.) consists 
of the W. and E. Haupt- Strasse , a street about l!/ 2 M. in 
length, with several less important cross and parallel streets. On 
the N. side flows the Neckar. 

On the S. side of the town, parallel with it, and extending from 
the Station (PI. B , C, 6) to a point opposite the centre of the town, 
runs the Anlage, or public promenade , planted with trees, and 
flanked w 7 ith modern hotels and handsome dwelling-houses. Near 
theW. end of this street is the old Cemetery of St. Anne, in which 
the remains of many eminent men repose. Near the E. end of the 
Anlage , on the 1. , is the Protestant Church of St. Peter, recently 
restored, where Hieronymus of Prague, the companion of Huss, ex- 
pounded his doctrines in 1406. 

The University (800 stud.), the celebrated Rwperto- Carolina, 
Baedekers Rhine, 5th Edit, 12 



178 Route 31. 



HEIDELBERG, 



Castle. 



the cradle of the sciences in S. Germany, and after those of Prague 
and Vienna the oldest in Germany, was founded in 1386 by Elector 
Rupert I. It is indebted for its modern development to Charles 
Frederick of Baden . who in 1802 provided it with eminent pro- 
fessors and scientific collections. Most of the lectures are deliver- 
ed in the University Buildings [PI. 19) in the Ludwigs-Platz, erect- 
ed in 1693. The Library, a separate building, contains 200,000 
vols, and 1800 MSS. It is open daily 10 — 12. and on "Wed. and 
Sat. 2 — 4 also. The collections and scientific institutions [Archaeo- 
logical Institute, near the University: Botanical Garden, PI. 4, 
near the station: Zoological Museum, and the extensive Collection 
of Minerals, both in the Natural History Building, or Friedrichs- 
bau. PI. 15) possess little interest for the passing traveller. 

In the Ma rket Place (PI. B. 2) rises the Gothic Stiftskirche. 
or Heilig-Geistkirche . erected at the beginning of the loth cent, 
under Count Palatine Rupert. The nave is employed for Protestant, 
the choir for Rom. Catholic worship. The latter contains the tomb 
of King Rupert ( see below) and his wife Elizabeth, sister of the first 
Elector of Brandenburg. Opposite the church is the inn Zum 
Hitter St. Georg . erected in 1592. a picturesque old house, one of 
the few which escaped destruction during the devastations of 1693 
( see below). As the town presents few attractions, the visitor should 
devote every spare hour to the magnificent 

**Castle and its environs. It is situated on a wooded slope of 
the Konigsstuhl. 330ft, above theNeokar, and was probably found- 
ed by Lewis the Severe, son-in-law of Rudolph of Hapsburg, about 
the close of the 13th century. The Ruprechts - Bau was erected 
by Elector Rupert III. . who was chosen emperor by the electors at 
Rhense (p. 83) in 1400 as indicated by the imperial eagle above 
the arms of the Palatinate on this, the oldest part of the castle. 
Elector Frederick I. . -the Victorious' . next extended the edifice. 
The Electors of the 16th and 17th centuries, especially Otho Henry 
(4555—59). Frederick IV. (1583—1610). and Frederick V. (1610 
— 21). King of Bohemia and husband of Elizabeth, daughter of 
James I. of England, made sumptuous additions to the castle. It 
suffered much during the Thirty Years' War. but was restored by- 
Charles Lewis (1650 — 80). It was this prince, who during the 
devastations of the Palatinate in 1674 wrote to Turenne , saying 
that such barbarities could not be perpetrated by command of the 
'most Christian king", and perhaps arose from some personal grudge 
which he would willingly gratify by meeting the Marshal in single 
combat. The Marshal . however . declined the challenge. During 
the Orleans war the French general Melac . contrary to the stipula- 
tion, caused the castle to be blown up (1689). 

The town met with the most cruel usage at the hands of the 
French in 1693. Owing to treachery or cowardice, it was surrender- 
ed after little or no resistance. The massacre of the inhabitants 



Castle. 



HEIDELBERG. 31. Route, 179 



and destruction of the castle immediately began. After savage and 
almost incredible barbarities, the town was left a heap of smoulder- 
ing ruins, and the castle entirely dismantled. 

After this feat of arms , so tarnishing to his fame, Louis XIV. 
caused a medal tobestruck, bearingthe words : L Heidelberg a D eleta' . 
In 1764 the Castle was struck by lightning and almost entirely 
destroyed. The walls are of vast extent, and form the most mag- 
nificent ruin in Germany. The towers, turrets, buttresses, and bal- 
conies , the lofty gateways and fine old statues , and the courts and 
grounds , have sometimes gained for it the title of the Alhambra of 
the Germans. The ivy-clad ruins are moreover linked with innumer- 
able historical associations , and the striking contrast here present- 
ed between the eternal rejuvenescence of nature and the instability 
of the proudest of human monuments has called forth many a poetic 
effusion. 

Ascent. Several paths ascend from the town to the Castle. 
The shortest is the Burgweg (see Plan), leading from the Korn- 
markt to the Great Balcony in 12 min. 

The most beautiful route from the town, however, is the following. 
Leaving the Prinz Carl , or the Adler , the traveller follows the Haupt- 
Strasse towards the E. , passes the Carls-Platz , planted with trees , and 
affording a good view of the castle , and then ascends by the third side 
street to the r., turning to the 1. beyond the last house. The path ascends 
in well shaded windings, commanding a view of the rapid Neckar below, 
passes the foot of the arches , and finally leads to the Great Terrace (PI. 
11), the most celebrated point of view, situated opposite to the Castle. 
Thence pass the Restaurant, the 'Gesprengte Thurm 1 and the Schloss- 
briicke, and proceed through the Elisabethen-Pforte into the Stiickgarten $ 
return to the bridge, enter the court-yard, visit the balcony , and descend 
by the Burgweg (comp. description below). 

A carriage-road, destitute of view , leads from the Klingenthor, 
at the E. end of the Anlage , to the Castle in */ 4 hr. By this the 
visitor first enters the garden , and then proceeds to the 1. through 
the Elisabethen-Pforte, erected by Elector Frederick V. in honour 
of his consort Elizabeth of England, to the Stiickgarten, the extreme 
W. point of the grounds, commanding an extensive view as far as 
the Haardt Mts. The l Dicke Thurm (PI. 2) at theW. corner, once 
the festive Hall of Frederick V. , whose statue , as well as that of 
his brother Lewis V., peer forth from ivy-clad niches, was destroy- 
ed by the French in 1689. 

To the r. on entering the * S chlo s sho f (castle-yard) is a 
fountain , with granite columns which once adorned the Palace of 
Charlemagne at Ingelheim (p. 107). On the 1. is the Ruprechts-Bau 
(PL 6) with the well-executed imperial eagle, and above the entrance 
a wreath of five roses borne by two angels , one of whom is putting 
a pair of half- opened compasses into one of the roses (an allegory 
not satisfactorily interpreted). The small hall contains a collection 
of armour, bullets, &c. found in the castle. The adjacent Alte Bau 
(or 'Bandhaus', PL 7) is restored in the interior. Those who wish 
to form an idea of the magnitude of the edifice , should explore the 

12* 



1 80 Route 31 . HEIDELBERG. 



Castle. 



extensive passages which connect this point with the 'Thick Tower', 
and inspect the castle chapel and cellar. (Fees , including the 
'Great Tun', for i pers. 30 kr. , 2 pers. 48, 3 pers. or more 18 kr, 
each.) 

The* Otto Heinrichs-Bau (PI. 15), erected in 1556, the finest 
example of Renaissance architecture in Germany , merits careful 
inspection. The principal facade towards the court, rising in three 
storeys above a lofty cellar floor , is richly adorned with beautiful 
sculpturing. Over the magnificent portal in the centre, to which a 
double flight of steps ascends, is the bust of the founder, the Elector 
Otto Heinrich, with armorial bearings and inscription. In the 
twelve niches above are statues of heathen deities by Colins of 
Marines ; in the middle niches, allegorical figures of Faith , Charity, 
Hope, and Justice; in the four lower niches , Hercules, Samson, 
Joshua, and David. 

The Friedrichs-Bau (PI. 9), dating from 1601, seems by the ex- 
uberance of its ornamentation ambitious of surpassing the rest of 
the edifice in magnificence. The front is embellished with statues 
of 16 Electors Palatine, from Otho of Wittelbach (1183), to Fre- 
derick IV. (1607) ; above them to the 1. is Charlemagne. In the 
corner to the 1. is the entrance to the cellar containing the famous 
Heidelberg Tun, a monster cask constructed in 1751, and capable of 
holding 49,000 gallons (adm. for 1 pers. 6, 2 — 3 pers. 9, 4 pers. or 
more 3 kr. each). By the tun stands a grotesque wooden figure of 
Perkeo, court-jester of Elector Charles Philip. Another large tun 
bears humorous inscriptions. 

The *Graimberg Gallery in the Friedrichsbau (adm. 12 kr. for parties 
of 6 and upwards 9 kr. each), contains an extensive collection of rjortraits 
of princes, chiefly of the Palatinate, documents, coins, relics, ornaments, 
etc. , all more or less connected with the history of the castle and the 
town. 

A vaulted passage leads under the Friedrichsbau to the * Great 
Balcony constructed in 1610, which commands a beautiful prospect 
of the INeckar. Under the balcony is a long vaulted gateway lead- 
ing to the footpath (Burgweg) to the town. 

The 'Gesprengte Thurm (blown-up-tower) at the E. angle of 
the castle, in the fosse to the r. of the bridge leading into the castle- 
yard , is of so solid masonry, that , when the French blew it up in 
1689, the result was, that one-half became detached and fell in an 
unbroken mass into the moat, where it still remains. The tower is 
93 ft. in diameter, the walls 21 ft. thick; beneath it are long 
casemated passages. 

The Schloss - Garten , laid out 1804, affords delightful walks. 
One of the finest points is the *Great Terrace to the N.E. , con- 
structed in 1613, commanding a beautiful view of the Castle 
itself. Between the Castle and the terrace is a Restaurant, where 
a band generally plays on summer afternoons. 

The Path to the Molkencur ascends the steps opposite 



Konigsstahl. 



HEIDELBERG. 



31. Route. 181 



the 'Gesprengte Thurm', and turns to the r. among ivy-clad walls; 
another flight of steps then leads to the broad carriage-road , which 
ascends to the Rondel, a few paces farther up. Here the traveller 
follows the road to the r., shaded by chestnut-trees, and termed the 
Friesenweg from an inscription on the rock in memory of the artist 
Fries of Heidelberg. The road passes the scanty remains of the 
L Old Castle on the Jettenbiihl, a spur of the Geisberg . It is said to 
have been inhabited in the 12th cent, by Conrad of Hohenstaufen, 
brother of Barbarossa , and was blown up in 1537. At the top of 
the hill is the Molkencur ('whey-cure 1 ), a restaurant 234 ft. above 
the Castle , and a very favourite resort. *View admirable , the 
Castle itself forming a most picturesque foreground. 

The ; Konigsstuhl , also called Kaiserstuhl in commemoration of 
the visit of the Emperor Francis in 1815, 905 ft. higher than the 
Castle, and 1847 ft. above the sea-level, is reached from the Molken- 
cur by an easy and shaded path in 3 / 4 hr. , or by the carriage-road 
in 1 hr. The tower on the top, 93 ft. in height, commands a mosf 
extensive view of the Rhine, Neckar, Odenwald, Haardt Mts., 
Taunus, the Black Forest as far as theMercuriusberg at Baden, and 
even the cathedral of Strassburg (?). 

From the Molkencur a nearly level carriage-road leads to the W. 
round the Riesenstein, and past some sandstone quarries , to the 
Kanzel ('pulpit') , 1 M. distant, and, a few hundred yards farther, 
to the *Rondel , an open space in front of a covered seat , and 
a charming point of view. From the Rondel a path to the 1. (on the 
r. side of the road) descends through the Wolfshdhle to the station 
(!/ 4 hr.). The pedestrian may continue his walk along the brow 
of the hill iy 4 M. farther to the Speyerer Hof (*Inn), but the view 
remains the same. He should then return by the road through the 
wood to the Cemetery (line view from the chapel), 3 / 4 M. from the 
station. 

To the E. of the Castle a road , with charming views , leads to 
the Wolfsbrunnen (2 M.) , once a favourite resort of Frederick V. 
and his wife (p. 178). According to tradition, the enchantress Jetta 
was here killed by a wolf; whence the name. The five ponds fed 
by the spring contain trout, a dish of which may be had at 
the inn. 

About y 4 M. from the Carlsthor , on the high road ascending on 
the 1. bank of the Neckar, and on the new road to the Castle, is 
situated a new Gothic building (formerly known as the Hausacker), 
the property of Herr Carl Metz, containing a * Collection of historic- 
ally or artistically remarkable weapons, suits of armour, ecclesiasti- 
cal and domestic utensils, instruments of torture, ancient and mod- 
ern stained glass, china, wood-carving, coins, pictures, etc., many 
of the objects very rare and valuable (always accessible; adm. 
18 kr. ; for a party of 4 pers. 1 fL). 

The handsome *Bridge (PI. A , 2) over the Neckar (toll 1 kr. ; 



182 Route 32. 



MANNHEIM. 



carriage and pair 4 kr.). constructed by Elector Charles Theodore 
in 1788, is embellished with statues of the Elector and of Minerva. 
In 1799 it was bravely and successfully defended by the Austrians 
against the French. 

On the r. bank of the Neckar is the *Philosophenweg, a beauti- 
ful walk extending 2 M. along the slope of the Heiligenberg (p. 172), 
chiefly through vineyards, commanding splendid views of the town, 
castle, valley, plain of the Rhine with the cathedral of Speyer. and 
the beautiful outlines of the S. Haardt Mts. It is reached by a 
road through the first side valley to the L, V2 M. above the bridge, 
passing the well-known students' tavern l Zur Hirschgasse , where 
duels still take place ; the road then descends to Neuenheimfjp. 172j ; 
or the walk may be taken in the opposite direction. At Neuenheim 
a ferry (1 kr. ) ; swimming-bath at the landing-place on the 1. bank 
of the river, not far from the station. 

Excursions. Ziegelhausen (Adter), a village frequently visited 
from Heidelberg. 3 M. from the "Neckar Bridge, lies on the road on the r. 
bank of the river, passing the picturesquely situated Stift Neuburg. 
Opposite to it, on the 1. bank, is stat. Schlierbach (see below), which is 
reached from the Carlsthor by railway in 10 min. 

Longer excursions (carriages, see p. 176) may also be made to Neckar- 
gemiind (Pfolz), 6 M. distant, on the 1. bank of the Neckar. at the influx 
of the Elsenz (reached by railway from the Carlsthor, PI. A, B, 1, in 20 
min. : fare? 24, 15, 9 kr. : Schlierbach is a station halfway to Neckargemiind). 
Beyond it. on a wooded eminence to the r., rises the castle of Dilsberg, 
unsuccessfully besieged by Tilly during the Thirty Years' War. It was 
used as a state-prison down to the beginning of the present century, 
and the following anecdote shows how rigorous was the confinement to 
which the prisoners were subjected. On one occasion, when the castle was 
visited by strangers who were desirous of seeing the cells, they were told 
by the officer in command that he could not oblige them, as the prisoners 
were then making a tour in the Odenwald and had taken the key- with 
them. The next place of note is the old town of Neokarsteinach (Harfe) 
(p. 176). on the r. bank of the Neckar. 8 M. from Heidelberg, once the 
seat of the valiant race of the Steinaeh- . who became extinct in 1653. 
The four old castles still bear testimony to their power. The chnreh 
contains numerous monuments of the family, several of whom bore the 
surname of Landschaden (4and - scourge") , perhaps from the perpetual 
feuds in which they were engaged. One of the castles has been restored 
in the mediaeval style by its present proprietor Baron v. Dorth. 

Excursions to Mannheim, Schwetztngen, and Sjieyer, see below. 



32. Mannheim and Schwetzingen. Speyer. 

Mannheim. Hotels. *Pfalzeb Hof (PI. b), R 1 B., B. 30. A. LS kv. 

-"Deutscher Hof (PI. c) , commercial. — *K6nig vox Portugal (PI. d) 
and Schwarzer Lowe, second class. Zahrixger Hof (PI. f)i *Dkei 
Glockex (or Hotel Langeloth, PI. g) . near the Strohmarkt jj *Weisses 
Lamm (PL h) and *Goldene Gaxs (PL i.), unpretending. 

Restaurants. Stem, near the theatre; Cafe Frangais; Mohrenkopf; 
Rosenstock. — Beer: Rothes Schaf; Maierhof; Alte Sonne; LdwenkeUer, on 
the way from the theatre to the station; Bockkeller, near the Heidelberg 
Gate. 

Cabs per drive 12 kr. for 1 pers., 24 for 2, 27 for 3, 36 for 4 pecs. 
Porterage from station or pier to tab 3 kr. for each package. 



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D^nnslaJi.Ed Vacnrr . 



MANNHEIM. 



32. Route. 183 



Telegraph Offices at the railway station and at the post-office in the 
town. 

Mannheim (276 ft.), was founded in 1606 by Elector Palatine 
Frederick IV., and destroyed by the French in 1689. For its sub- 
sequent importance it was indebted to Elector Charles Philip , who 
owing to ecclesiastical differences transferred his residence from 
Heidelberg to Mannheim in 1720. The town was seriously damaged 
by the siege of 1795, and in 1799 the fortifications were demolished. 

Mannheim (pop. 39,614, 1 / 2 Prot.) is the most regularly built 
town in Germany, being divided into 100 square sections like a 
chess-board. It is conveniently situated at the confluence of the 
Neckar and Rhine, and is the most important commercial town of 
the Upper Rhine. Tobacco, madder, spelt, and fruit are the staple 
commodities. The harbours of the Rhine and Neckar and the Baden 
railway station are connected by rails for the goods traffic. 

The spacious Schloss (PI. 8), erected in 1720—1729, and parti- 
ally destroyed in 1795, contains (in the gateway, 1.) a number of 
Roman Monuments, with remarkable inscriptions, statues, small 
Etruscan sarcophagi , &c. ; on the first floor of the same wing a 
Picture Gallery with a few good Dutch pictures , a considerable 
collection of Engravings and Casts, and a Nat. History Cabinet. 
The Grand Duchess Stephanie (d. 1860), the adopted daughter of 
Napoleon I. , and widow of the Grand Duke Charles (d. 1818), 
formerly resided here. 

Picture Gallery (open daily, 8 — 12, and 2 till dusk, adm. 30 kr. ; 
on Wed., 11 — 4, gratis). Ante-Chamber: Casts of ancient busts; engravings. 
— Room I.: Modern Baden artists. — II.: L. Cranach, 34. Dying Mary; 
35. Nativity; 21. Kuntz , Cows resting; 24. Holbein, Portrait; 25. Ross, 
Senator of Frankfort; 33. Hamilton, Game. — III.: 60. Hondekoeter, 
Poultry. — IV.: 119. Rubens, Portrait of his second wife; 97. Peters, 
Storm at sea; 88. Ruysdael , Landscape. — V.: Rembrandt, Christ before 
Pilate; 122. Two clergymen; 127. Potter , Cattle; 141. Ruysch, Fruit; 163. 
Weenix , Game; Terburg , 183. Singing lesson, 182. Lace-maker; 190. 
Wouvermans, Plundering. — VI. : Terriers, 201. Rustic wedding, 205. Boors 
playing, 195. Tavern scene, 196. Rustic repast; 212. Helmont , Alchemist; 
Teniers, 219. Scissors-grinder, 222. Peasants singing; 223. Everdingen, 
Landscape; 235. Joseph. Vernet , Calm sea; Ryclcaert , 221. Cobbler, 224. 
Tavern scene; 253. Le Brun, Portrait of a counsellor. — VII.: 259. Cignani, 
Joseph and Potiphar. — VIII. : Casts of ancient sculptures. 

The Theatre (PI. 10), restored in 1854, and admirably decora- 
ted, is one of the best in S. Germany. Schiller's first pieces, the 
'Robbers', 'Fiesco' , and 'Cabal and Love', were performed here 
under his own direction. — Schiller's Monument (PI. 4), which 
adorns the Schillerplatz , was erected in 1862. Adjacent , on the 
r. and L, are the statues of Iff land (d. 1814) , a distinguished actor 
who began his career at Mannheim , and Von Dalberg (d. 1806), 
intendant of the theatre down to 1803 , minister of Baden , and 
brother of the Primate of that name (p. 148), both by Widnmann, 
and erected by King Lewis I. of Bavaria in 1864 and 1866. 

The following buildings may also be mentioned ; the Jesuits 
Church, richly decorated with marble and gilding, erected in 1733 ; 



184 Route 32. 



SCHWETZINGEN. 



the Observatory, the Arsenal, and the Kaufkaus , all erected about 
the middle of last century • the long and handsome magazines of 
the Freihafen; the new Synagogue , in the Byzantine style, richly 
decorated with gilding and arabesques. The bronze fountain in 
front of the Kaufhaus was erected at the beginning of the 18th 
cent. 

The Market Place is adorned with a Monument (PI. 1) to the 
Elector Charles Theodore. Farther X. in the same direction is the 
Suspension Bridge over the Xeckar, constructed in 1845. 

The Railway Bridge (PI. G, 6) across the Rhine, with its hand- 
some portals, was completed in 1867. 

From Mannheim to Carlsruhe by direct railway in hr. (fares 
1 fl. 42. 1 fl. 9. 4'2 kr.). Scenery uninteresting. First stat. Schwetzingen 
(-*Evbpriaz , Hirsch , both opposite the entrance to the chateau ; Ha$slei\ 
at the station), a town with 32UU inhab. The Schloss was erected by the 
Elector Charles Lewis in 1650. destroyed by Melac in 1689, subsequently 
rebuilt, and occupied during the 18th cent, as an electoral residence. The 
poet Hebel, who died here in 1826, is interred in the neighbouring ceme- 
tery. The ^Gardens, laid out by Elector Charles Theodore in the middle 
of the 18th cent. , cover an area of 117 acres, and contain fine avenues 
in the old French style, as well as portions laid out like an English park. 
The whole may be seen in 2 hrs. The objects most worthy of note are, 
beginning on the 1. (guide unnecessary): Temple of 3Iinerva, the Mosque 
(fine view from the highest minaret, 150 ft., fee 12 kr.) , Temple of Mer- 
cury : view from the large pond (near the colossal statues of the ; Ehine" 
and '"Danube") , through an opening in the wood, of the Haardt Mts. : 
Temple of Apollo, Bath-house (fee 12 kr.) , bird fountain, Roman aque- 
duct, and orangery. 

Xext stations Hocfcenheim, Xeulusshnim , Waghausel, Wiesenthal (where 
the Baden insurgents were signally defeated on 21st June, 1849). Post- 
omnibus three times daily from ^Yicsentllal (in l [z hr.) to the ancient 
imperial fortress of Philippsburg , which after numerous vicissitudes was 
dismantled by the French in 1800. About 3 M. farther W. lies Ger- 
mersheim (p. 186). Xext stations Graben-Xeudorf, Linkenheim , and Carls- 
ruhe (p. 189). 

Travellers who make a short stay at Mannheim are strongly re- 
commended to devote half a day to Speyei . or Spires (by railway 
from Ludwigshafen in 50 min. . comp. p. 225). 

Speyer (*Rheinischer Hof ; * Wittelsbacher Hof ; *Pfalzer Hof, ' 
near the cathedral), the capital of the Bavarian Palatinate , the seat 
of Government and a bishopric, and the ■city of the dead emperors' 
(pop. 13,241, 3 / 5 Prot.), was the Roman Xoviomagus , Neomagus, 
Nerhetae, or Augusta Xemetum. and was frequently the residence of 
the German monarchs. Under the Salic kings . who resided at 
Limburg near Diirkheim (p. 232) . 18 M. from Speyer . the town 
assumed considerable importance. 

The ^Cathedral, the great attraction here, is open 9 — 11 a. m., 
and 2 — 6 p. m. : admission to the choir and crypt by card only (12 
kr.), obtained from the sacristan. Tickets for the cartoons (12 kr. | 
are sold at the W. entrance, where application must be made by 
those desirous of ascending the tower. The church is ; V 4 If. from 
the stat. (omnibus 9 kr. ). 

The cathedral was founded in 1030 by Conrad II. as a burial- 



SPEYER. 



32. Route. 185 



place for himself and his successors , and completed by his son 
Henry III. and his grandson Henry IV. (1061), all of whom found 
a resting-place within its precincts. The remains of Henry IV., who 
had been excommunicated by Pope Gregory VII., were not deposited 
here till five years after his death , during which period his body 
remained unburied in the Chapel of St. Afra, on the N. side of the 
cathedral, which he himself had erected. His son Henry V. , last 
of the Salic imperial family, is also interred here , as well as Philip 
of Swabia , Rudolph of Hapsburg , Adolph of Nassau , and Albert I. 
of Austria, by whose hand Adolph fell at Gollheim (p. 233). After 
the murder of Albert I. , the Emp. Henry VII. caused the remains 
of the rival monarchs to be deposited in the same vault. Here too 
lie the remains of Gisela , the pious consort of Conrad II. , Bertha, 
queen of Henry IV. , and Beatrice, wife of Barbarossa , with her 
daughter Agnes. In 1146 the cathedral was the scene of the preach- 
ing of St. Bernhard, whose fervency in the cause of the Cross induc- 
ed Conrad III. to join the crusades. 

The cathedral suffered much by fire in 1450 , but was soon 
restored. On 31st May , 1689, it was desecrated by the French, 
who did not even respect the resting-places of the dead. The tombs 
of the emperors were ransacked , the town was committed to the 
flames and completely destroyed , and other atrocities were 
committed by the brutal Hirelings of Louis XIV. The desecration 
of the imperial monuments was repeated in 1693 by order of the 
French intendant Henz. By a singular coincidence, on the same 
day, exactly 100 years later, the spoliation of the tombs of the French 
kings at St. Denis was perpetrated under the direction of oneHentz, 
a representative of the people, and the remains of Louis XIV., 
devastator of the Palatinate , were the first to suffer what appeared 
to be a righteous retribution. 

In the following year (10th — 20th Jan. , 1794) the church was 
subjected to new devastation. Everything of a combustible nature, 
crosses, altars, and prayer-books, were burned in front of the 
sacred edifice , while the republicans are said to have danced de- 
moniacally round the blazing pile. The church was then converted 
into a magazine , and at the close of last century narrowly escaped 
being put up to auction at a valuation of 8000 fr. In 1806 Na- 
poleon ordered it to be re-dedicated to public worship, but in the 
absence of funds it continued to be used as a store-house. In 1822 
it was at length restored to its sacred purposes. 

The church is a simple, but vast and imposing basilica in the Ro- 
manesque style, the plan of which has remained unaltered notwith- 
standing the numerous vicissitudes it has undergone. Length 147 
yds. , length of transept 60 yds., breadth of nave 15 yds., height 
of nave 105 ft. 

The crypt, under the transept and choir, which contains the 
most ancient tombstone of Rudolph of Hapsburg , remains in the 



186 Route 32. 



SPEYER. 



Cathedral, 



spire (239 ft.) and the Kaiser- 
constructed in 1854 — 58 from 



form in which it was consecrated in 1039; the choir with the two 
E. towers (284 ft.) were probably erected subsequently to 1068, 
while the upper parts of the church are believed to have been re- 
stored after a fire in 1159. 

The Facade, as well as the W. 
Halle , or Imperial Hall . were 
designs by the eminent 
architect Hiibsch of Carls- 
ruhe. The large rose window 
in front has a head of the 
SaviouT crowned with thorns 
in the centre , on a gold 
ground , and in the corners 
the emblems of the four 
Evangelists, an angel (Mat- 
thew^, a winged lion (Mark), 
an ox (Luke), and an eagle 
(John"). Over the principal 
door is the imperial double 
eagle, over the side-entrances 
the lion of the Palatinate. 

In the Kaiser-Halle, the 
entrance hall under the W. 
towers . are niches of gilded 
mosaic . in which stone sta- 
tues of the following emperors 
interred in the Kings Choir 
were placed in 1858 : r. Con- 
rad II., Rudolph of Hapsburg, 
Adolph of Nassau, and Albert 
of Austria: H. Henry III., 
Henry IV. (in the robes of a 
penitent), Henry Y. , Philip 
of Swabia , and Conrad II. 
The last by Dietrich, the 
others by Fernkorn of Vienna. 
The four reliefs are by Pilz: 
Conrad laying the foundation 
of the cathedral; Rudolph 
and the priest with the host; 
Rudolph receiving the tidings 
of his election to the throne : 
the same emperor taking the 
cross from the altar at his coronation at Aix-la-Chapel'e. Over the 
principal inner portal is represented the dedication of the church to 
the Virgin, 1. St. Bernard and St. Stephen, r. John the Baptist 
and the painter Schraudolph. 




Cathedral. 



SPEYER. 



32. Route. 187 



Two inscriptions to the r. and I. of the principal portal record 
the names of the sovereigns by whom the church has been restored 
at different periods. 

The *Interior is adorned with ** Fresco e s by Schraudolph , 32 
in number, which owe their origin to the artistic taste of Lewis I. and 
Max II., kings of Bavaria, and are among the finest specimens of modern 
German art. They were executed by Joh. Schraudolph , assisted by G. 
Schraudolph and others, in 1845 — 1853; decorations by Jos. Schwarzmami. 

Nave. JV. Wall: 1. Adam and Eve; 2. Abraham's promise; 3. David's 
vision; 4. Birth of the Virgin; 5. Her Betrothal; 6. Salutation; 7. Adora- 
tion of the Magi ; 8. Circumcision ; 9. Mary finds Jesus in the Temple ; 10. 
Joseph's death; 11. Jesus teaching; 12. The risen Saviour. S. Wall: 1. 
Noah's thank-offering; 2. The burning hush; 3. Prophesying of Isaiah; 4. 
Mary's Sacrifice; 5. Salutation; 6. Nativity; 7. Simeon's prophecy; 8. 
Flight to Egypt; 9. Jesus at Nazareth; 10. Marriage at Cana ; 11. Cruci- 
fixion; 12. Descent of the Holy Ghost. On the Dome: the Lamb, Abel, 
Abraham, Melchisedech , the Manna, Isaiah, Jeremiah, Ezekiel , Daniel, 
and the Evangelists. S. Side -choir: Stoning of Stephen; above ^ it 
Stephen before the council; 1. Consecration of the deacons, and Stoning 
of the Martyr Stephen ; oil the wall at the back, Prayer of the same saint. 
N. Side -choir: Vision of St. Bernard; above it, Arrival of St. Bern- 
ard at Speyer; on the r. , his Prayer at the altar, and under it Presenta- 
tion of the banner of the Cross; on the back part of the wall, Miraculous 
cure of a boy , Departure of the saints. Collegiate Choir : Mary and 
John; Death of Mary; her Interment, Assumption, Coronation. — The 
coloured Sketches and Cartoons are exhibited in a room above the (S.) 
baptistery (adm. see above) ; entrance from the S. side choir. — In the 
Kings' Choir , on broad pedestals , stand two large *Statues : r. Rudolph 
of Hapsburg , in Tyrolese marble, by Schwanthaler , in a sitting posture, 
with a sword in his r. hand and a helmet at his feet, as the restorer of 
order and peace after the sad interregnum; 1. the Emp. Adolph of Nassau, 
in sandstone, by Ohmacht, in a kneeling position. — On the r. and 1. of 
the passage of the principal choir two reliefs, formerly in the vaults, are 
built into the walls, each containing likenesses of four emperors, partially 
gilded , and bearing ancient inscriptions. — The crypt beneath the choir, 
containing the ancient tombstone of Rudolph of Hapsburg already mention- 
ed, was restored in 1857 and is architecturally interesting. 

On the exterior a gallery , without balustrades , extends round 
the cathedral , affording a fine view of the environs , and enabling 
the visitor to inspect the frescoes in the nave and choir from above. 
(Sacristan 30 kr.) 

The ancient Churchyard is now a promenade. On the S. side 
of the cathedral is the Oelberg (Mt. of Olives) , a curious mass of 
rock-work with emblematical representations , surrounded by five 
Gothic pillars, erected in 1441. It was originally a chapel in the 
cloisters, of which no trace is now left, and represented the Garden 
of Gethsemaue and the betrayal of the Saviour. Under the trees 
near it is the Domnapf, or cathedral-bowl , a large vessel of sand- 
stone , once marking the boundary between the episcopal and civic 
jurisdiction. Every new bishop was obliged, after binding himself 
to respect the liberties of the town, to rill the Napf with wine, which 
was then drunk to his health by the townspeople. From among the 
trees to the E. of the choir rises the Heidenthiirmchen (Heathens' 
Tower), the substruction of which is supposed to be of Roman origin. 
It probably belonged to the town -wall built in 1080 by Bishop 
Rudger. It contains some bones of antediluvian animals and 



1 88 Route 33. 



BRUCHSAL. 



mediaeval relics. — To the N.E. of the cathedral is the open Hall 
of Antiquities, in which Roman and other relics found in the Rhenish 
Palatinate are preserved. 

The broad Maximilians - Strasse is hounded on the E. by the 
Cathedral , on the W. by the Altportel, a fine old tower, the sole 
relic of the once free Imperial town. 

The devastations of the French have left few other relics of an- 
tiquity at Speyer. A mouldering wall by the Protestant church is 
all that remains of the ancient Retscher, an imperial palace where 29 
diets were held. In consequence of the proceedings at one of these 
under Charles V. in 1529, the famous Protest was issued by the 
members of the reformed faith , from which the appellation of 
'Protestant' is derived. The bishops , who like those of Cologne 
were not permitted to live in the town , resided till the 17th cent, 
at the Madenburg (p. 234), and afterwards .at Bruchsal. 

From Speyer by railway in 35 inin. to G-ermersheim {Elephant) , an 
old town at the confluence of the Queich (p. 225) and the Rhine, strongly 
fortified since 1835 ; thence in 40 min. to Landau (p. 225). 

33. From Heidelberg to Baden. 

Railway in 2 1 | 4 — 3i| 2 hrs. (fares 3 fl. 54, 2 fl. 39, 1 fl. 39 kr. 5 express 
higher). Carriages generally changed at Oos, the junction for Baden. 

The line traverses a wideband fertile plain, bounded on the E. 
by a low range of hills , and here and there passes villages peeping 
from among innumerable fruit-trees. As soon as the train has 
quitted the station, the cemetery-chapel appears oil the slope to the 
1. , with the tower on the Konigsstuhl rising above it. Stations 
St.llgen, Wiesloch (the village 3 /4M. from the line); thenLangen- 
briicken ( Ochs ; Sonne) , with sulphur baths , near which , to the r. 
of the line, is Kislau, formerly a hunting-seat of the archbishops of 
Speyer , and now a penitentiary for women. Opposite , at some 
distance, lies Mingolsheim, where Count Ernst Mansfeli , the ally 
of Elector Frederick V., defeated the Bavarians under Tilly in 1622. 

Bruchsal (*Badischer Hof, R. from 48, B. 30 kr. ; *Rose, near 
the station; * Rail. Restaur.), a town with 9786inhab., was formerly 
the residence of the Archbishops of Speyer, whose Schloss, a hand- 
some rococo structure, elegantly fitted up and adorned with frescoes 
by Zick , merits a visit. Opposite the Schloss is a large Reservoir 
built in the form of a small chateau , and supplied with water from 
the mountains. The castellated building to the 1. of the line is 
a Prison , containing 408 cells for solitary confinement , part of 
which was destroyed by fire in 1871. The Church of St. Peter 
contains the burial vault of the last bishops. 

Bruchsal is the junction of the Wurtemberg line (to Stuttgart in 
2— 3 »/2 nrs - 5 t0 Friedrichshafen in 9—1274 hrs.). 

On the Michaelsberg, near stat. Unter-Grombach, stands the old 
Michaels-Cajpelle; on an eminence near stat. Weingarten rises the 
tower of the ruin of Schmalenstein. 



CARLSRUHE. 



33. Route. 189 



Durlach (*Carlsburg) , the ancient capital of the Duchy of 
Baden-Durlach, was burned by the French in 1688 , with the ex- 
ception of five houses. The lofty and conspicuous watch-tower on 
the Thurmberg commands a splendid view, as far as Strassburg. The 
line to Pforzheim, diverging here to the 1., runs thence to the S. to 
Wildbad, and E. to Miihlacker, a station on the Wurtemberg line. 

The train next passes the old Benedictine monastery of Gottsau 
(r.), now a barrack, and soon stops at 

Carlsmhe. The Railway Station is a handsome structure, worthy of 
inspection. On the W. side of the town there is a small station for the 
trains to Maxau and Mannheim. Railway to Mannheim direct, see p. 184; 
to Maxau , see p. 193 ; to Baden and Bale, see below. 

Hotels. *Erbprinz (PI. a), Lange-Str., R. 1 fl., L. 18, B. 30, A. 24 kr. ; 
*Englischer Hof (PI. b) and *H6tel G-rosse (PI. c) in the market-place, 
similar charges. *H6tel Stoffleth (Bar) (PI. f ) , Carl Friedrichs - Str., 
near the Ettlinger Thor. — *Goldner Adler (PI. d) , near the Ettlinger 
Thor, unpretending. *Gruner Hof (PI. e) , Badischer Hof, and Prinz 
Max, all at the station. 

Cafe-Restaurants (beer at all). *Daschner, Katholische Kirchenplatz ; 
*Hoeck (Griiner Hof), with garden; * Iff land (Erbprinz Hotel): Badischer 
Hof, Schloss-Platz ; concerts are frequently given at Klever^s , Schrempfs, 
and Geiger^s. — Newspapers and restaurant at the Museum, a private club 
to which access may be obtained through a member. 

Cabs. One-horse, 1 — 2 pers. for !| 4 hr. 18 kr., 3 — 4 pers. 24 kr. ; two- 
horse 30 kr. To the station to meet the early train (before 6) 1 fl. 

Post and Telegraph Office (PI. 17), Kreuz-Str., No. 14. 

Theatre (PI. 22) on Sund. , Tues. , Thurs. , and Frid. ;- closed from 1st 
June to 1st Aug. 

Baths in the Rhine, at Maxau, to which special morning and evening 
trains convey bathers in summer. — Warm Baths : Hemberle , at the 
corner of the Lange-Str. and Wald-Str. 

English Church Service in the Chapel of the Stiftung, by the Miihl- 
berg Gate. 

Carlsruhe (318 ft.), the capital of the Grand Duchy of Baden 
(38,004 inhab., 2 / 5 Rom. Cath.), situated 3 M. from the Rhine, on 
the outskirts of the Hardwald , is a clean well-built town, which is 
indebted for its origin to some differences between the Margrave 
Charles William and the townspeople of Durlach. In 1715 that 
prince began to erect the town round his hunting-castle, which soon 
gave place to the present palace. The plan of the town resembles 
a fan , the streets radiating from the palace. Three distinct archi- 
tectural styles may be observed: 1st, that of the beginning of last 
century , the older French style ; 2nd , imitations of the Greek and 
Roman styles ; 3rd , the modern Romanesque School, introduced by 
the eminent architect Hiibsch. 

The broad Carl-Friedrichs-Strasse intersects the town from N. to 
S., extending from the Ettlinger Thor (to the 1. of the egress from 
the station , near the bronze statue of the Baden minister Winter) 
to the palace, a distance of */ 2 M - Most of the sights of Carlsruhe 
are situated in this street in the following order: Obelisk (PI. 6) 
with arms of Baden and bust of the Grand Duke Charles (1811 
— 1818), with inscription; to the r. of the monument the Mark- 
grafliche Palais (PI. 13); on the 1. side of the market - place the 



190 Route 33. 



CARLSRUHE. 



From Heidelberg 



Town Hall (PI. 18), and r. the Prof. Church ("PI. 19 I. resembling 
a Greek temple; Statue of the Grand Duke Lewis (1818—1830): 
Pyramid in honour of Margrave Charles (d. 1738), founder of Carls- 
ruhe: in front of the palace * Bronze Statue of the Grand Duke 
Charles Frederick fd. 1811"). by Schwanthaler , with four female 
figures at the comers of the pedestal . emblematical of the four 
divisions of the Duchy, the whole well designed and executed, 
especially the statue itself. 

The Schloss ( PI. 20) . erected about 1750. is in the form of a 
semicircle, and surmounted by the Bleithurm ("150 ft.: open on 
Frid. 4 — 6 p. m. ). which affords a good survey of the town and the 
Ha dwald. The dining-haU . ball-room, and other apartments are 
sumptuously fitted up. The E. wing contains the Court - Library 
(70.000 vols. J and a Natural History Cabinet ("open Wed. and Sat. 
10 — 12 and '2 — 4 o'clock). The latter contains remains of ante- 
diluvian animals . a valuable collection of shells . etc. The well- 
appointed ducal ^Stables are on the same side. 

In the crescent on the W. side of the Schloss is the * Court- 
Theatre fPl. 22) 3 a handsome modern building . erected in 1847 — 
1853, to replace one which had been burned down. The pediment 
contains fr. J reliefs of Goethe, Schiller, and Lessing. and (1.) 
of Mozart. Beethoven, and Gluck ; in the centre the Muse of the 
Drama : all by Reich. 

An arched passage in the W. wing of the Schloss leads to the 
Palace Garden, which extends into the Hardwald. About 200 yds, 
N.W. of the Bleithurm. in a small avenue, is a bust of the poet 
Hehel [PI. 5) with quotations from his poetry. To the 1. of the 
entrance to the garden are extensive hot -houses fitted up as a 
^Winter Garden ( PI. 24), containing a palm -house . pond for the 
Victoria regia. orangery, green-houses, &c. The adjoining Botanic 
Garden ("PI. 1) is open daily (Sund. excepted") before 12 and after 

2 o'clock: the hot-houses on Tues. and Frid. only. 9 — 11 and 

3 — 5 o'clock: admission at other times on application to the com- 
mittee. 

Adjacent to the botanic garden is the *Hall of Art (PL 12), by 
Hiibsch (1836 — 1845) in the modern Romanesque style, containing 
collections of pictures, casts, and antiquities (open Wed. and Sund. 
11 — 1 and '2 — 4: at other times fee 30 kr.). The sculptures at the 
entrance by Reich represent the arts of sculpture, poetry, and 
painting in the central section of the arch : at the sides , Italy on 
the 1. and Germany on the r. : below, on the 1. . Michael Angelo 
and Raphael, on either side of the torso of a Venus ; on the r. Diirer. 
Holbein, and Vischer. Frommel's catalogue (42 kr.) fully describes 
everything in the Hall. The eminent painter K. F. Lessing is the 
director. 

Ground Floor. Corridor to the left (admission 6 kr.") : exhibition of 
modern pictures and objects of art, chiefly of the Carlsruhe school, all 
for sale 5 above are four cartoons by Schwindt, representing a procession 



to Baden. 



CARLSRUHE. 



33. Route. 191 



of children. Corridor to the rigid: Greek and Roman vases from Lower 
Italy and Sicily, and various other antiquities. Then four saloons and sev- 
eral cabinets containing casts of ancient and modern sculptures. 

Staircase adorned with *frescoes by Schwind. That on the wall at the 
back represents the consecration of the cathedral at Freiburg by Duke 
Conrad of Zahringen ; among the workpeople is a portrait of the archi- 
tect Hiibsch (with a white collar, near the entrance on the r.); the flag- 
bearer is a portrait of the Grand Duke Leopold, holding the crown- 
prince by the hand ; the crowned female figures are the Grand Duchess 
and the princesses ; on the scaffolding above, to the r., Schwind himself; 
to the 1. Sabina of Steinbach, the sculptress (comp. p. 203); to the r. Bal- 
dung Griin, painting the Margrave Christopher I. — The lunettes contain 
allegorical representations of art (above the central picture), to the r. 
Imagination, to the 1. Exact Science, farther on, Peace and Wealth. 

First Floor. Corridor to the left: Cartoons by Hess, Veit , Schnorr, 
and Overbeck. Cabinet with carved ivory and statuettes in bronze. 11. Preach- 
ing of St. Boniface, encaustic painting by Fohr; under it, the *Four Sea- 
sons, a water-colour by Schrodter. At the end of the corridor, to the 1., 
is a small room ('No. III. ) : 668. Marie Ellenrieder , Madonna and Child 
in glory ; 669. Sohn , Question of conscience ; 303. Rimer , Italian distur- 
bances of 1848 ; 670. Tidemand , Grandmother's bridal ornaments. — 
I. Room ('V.'), lighted from above: 111. Winterhalter , Grand Duke Leo- 
pold of Baden; 118. Overbeck, Raising of Lazarus; 91, 93, 280. Rottmann, 
Greek landscapes and the island of Aegina; 121. Marco, Italian landscape ; 
128. Lessing, Scene from the frist crusade ; without number, Lessing, Large 
landscape , wooded ravine with soldiers of the Thirty Years'" War (date 
1871); 129. Schirmer, Threatening storm in the Campagna; 288, 306. E. 
Fries , Landscape from the mountains of Latium , and Watch-tower of 
Amalfi ; 303, 77. Rimer, Children playing at the Italian revolution of 
1848, and Swiss soldier relating his reminiscences of the French Revo- 
lution of 1830 ; 640. Nicutowski, Passage of the Beresina ; *642. De Coudres, 
Entombment ; 119. F. Dietz , Queen Maria Eleonora at the coffin of Gu- 
stavus Adolphus. — II. Room ('VI.') : * Lessing, Disputation between Luther 
and Eck before the Elector of Saxony and the Landgrave of Hessen; on 
either side of the latter, 671 — 674. Schirmer, Four periods of the day, 
large landscapes with the story of the Good Samaritan ; 639. F. Dietz, De- 
struction of Heidelberg by Melac (a very large picture); *120. Rachel, 
Love ; 657. G. Becker , The proposal of marriage ; 636. Schmitson , Horses 
shying at an overturned vehicle; Feuerbach , Satyr playing the young 
Bacchus to sleep with a flute, Dante with the noble ladies of Ravenna; 
132. Bayer , Cathedral of Freiburg , Cathedral of Strassburg ; 270. Bayer, 
Jeanne de France in the convent at Bourges; 661. Bayer, Midday at a 
monastery. — IV. Cabinet. Copies from Raphael , Titian , Rubens , etc. ; 
638. Feuerbach, Copy of Titian's Assumption. — V. Cabinet. Feuerbach, 
Poetry (female figure over life-size, with violin). — VI. Cabinet. *340. 
M. Schwind, Ritter Kurt's bridal journey, from Goethe's ballad, a humo- 
rous picture in the early German style, with the inscription, 'Enemies, 
women, debts ! Alas, what knight can get rid of them !' — VII. Cabinet. 
On one of the walls are early Italian pictures : 350. Niccolb Alunno, Cruci- 
fixion, painted in 1469 (on linen, probably a procession-flag) ; 351. Lor. di 
Credi, Madonna. The rest of this room and the next are occupied with 
pictures of the early German and Netherlands schools. 381. School of 
van Eyck, Small portrait of a man; 370. Holbein the Elder, Bearing of the 
Cross; 369, 371, 369, 371. Holbein the Younger, St. Barbara and St. George; 
42. H. Baldung Griin, Margrave Christopher of Baden; 382. Griin, The fa- 
mily of the Margrave kneeling before the Madonna and St. Anna; Cra- 
nach, 87. Luther after death, 378. Mary and Child, 379. Judgment of 
Paris. — III. Room ('VII.'): 366. G. Pencz (d. 1550), Portrait of a man in 
fur; 374. N. Neuchatel (d. 1600), Portraits of a man and woman (in half 
figure); 413. Jordaens, Moses and the Israelites leaving Egypt; 480. C. de 
Grayer, Family picture; 662. Snyders , Cabbages; 446. Snyders and Van 
Thulden , Kitchen piece ; 531 , 532. Tenters , Witch scenes. Then Italian 
masters, most of them uninteresting: 135. Bronzino , Portrait of a man; 



192 Route 33. 



CARLSRUHE. From Heidelberg 



.136 , 137. Two portraits of cardinals (formerly attributed to Domenicliino, 
but probably by Maratta and Sustermans). — IV. Room ('VIII. ^ : Dutch 
masters: 553, 610. Miereveldt, Portraits of men; *592. Rembrandt, Portrait 
of himself; 583. Lievencz (sometimes attributed to Rembrandt), Head of 
St. Peter ; *587. Van der Heist, Young married couple Corn. Jenson van 
Ceulen (Cologne), Portraits of Elizabeth of Essen and on old lady, both 
without number. — The two adjoining Cabinets contain the Dutch cabinet 
painters. *593. Metsu , Cavalier jesting over his wine with a citizen's 
wife; 549. G. Dow, Cook, cleaning fish at a window, receives a hare 
from a boy ; 544. F. Mieris , Portrait of a man ; 563. Netscher , Cleopatra ; 
*430. A. Brouwer, Sleeping peasant; 469. Brouwer , Dentist; 482. Steen, 
Arbour of a tavern; 426, 507, 535, 545, 546. A. Ostade, Group of peasants, 
feather- cutter , interior, draught - players , smoker. — In the last Cor- 
ridor, by which the staircase is again reached: Roman antiquities, weapons, 
tripods, vases, statuettes, and coins, most of them found near Badenweiler, 
Pfullendorf, Sinzheim, and Baden-Baden ; among the latter is the inscrip- 
tion found on the Mercuriusberg (p. 199). Relics of the lake-dwellings 
from the Lake of Constance ; mediaeval coins , weapons , musical instru- 
ments , etc. The walls are adorned with cartoons by Hess and Gbtzen- 
berger, and an encaustic painting by Fohr, representing an ancient German 
oak-grove. 

The Botanical Garden adjoining the Kunsthalle is open on 
Mond. and Frid., 10—2 and 2—4 o'clock. 

The Polytechnic School (PI. 16), an excellent institution at- 
tended by about 800 stud. , near the Durlacher Thor at the E. end 
of the Lange-Strasse , was erected by Hubsch in 1836. Over the 
entrance are stone statues of Keppler , who represents mathe- 
matical, and Erwin of Steinbach architectural science, by Raufer. 
Near the Durlacher Thor, a little way back from the street, stands 
the Arsenal (PL 25) , which was bravely defended in 1849 by the 
townspeople against the insurgents. 

The Finanz-Ministerium (PI. 9) at the E. corner of the Schloss- 
Platz, was also erected by Hubsch. The Landesgestiit ('national 
stud 1 ) near the station , should be visited by persons interested in 
the rearing of horses. 

The Industrial Hall in the Carl-Friedrichs-Strasse , near the 
station (open daily 10—12, on Sund. 11 — 12 and 2—4) , contains 
a good collection of machines , implements , utensils , and manu- 
factures of all kinds. A large lecture-room adjoining the library 
contains casts of classical sculptures for the instruction of students. 

The Friedrichs-Platz, the finest at Carlsruhe. has recently been 
formed by the erection of a number of new buildings. On the S. side 
is the handsome museum of the Vereinigte Sammlungen (PI. 23), 
with its conspicuous central portion somewhat resembling a triumphal 
arch, erected by Bergmuller in 1865—72. The interior is still un- 
finished. The N. side of the Platz is occupied with handsome ba- 
zaar buildings ; on the E. side are the offices of the railways and 
diligences within the Duchy. The modern Rom. Cath. Church 
(PI. 11), with its Ionic portico, is in the style of the Pantheon. 

The Cemetery (PI. F, 3) of Carlsruhe displays great taste. The 
Preussen-Denkmal , in memory of Prussians who fell in the revo- 
lution of 1849 , was erected in 1851 from designs famished by the 
late king Frederick William IV. 



to Baden. 



RASTATT. 



33. Route. 193 



From Carl sruhe to Landau by railway in i 1 ^ nr. (fares 1 fl. 18, 
48, and 33 kr.). Stations Miihlburg, Knielingen, Maxau (baths, see p. 198), 
where the Rhine is crossed by a bridge of boats ; then Maximiliansaii, 
Worth, Kandel, Winden, and Landau (p. 225). 

As the train quits the station of Carlsruhe , Kessler's extensive 
Engine Factory is seen on the r. Then to the r., at some distance 
from the line , the two towers of the church of Bulach (erected by 
Hiibsch, frescoes by Dietrich). To the 1., on the slope of the wooded 
hills, lies the industrial town of Ettlingen (Hirsch; Krone), with 
thriving velvet and paper manufactories. Next stations Malsch, 
Muggensturm. 

The mountains of the Murgthal bound the view on the 1. The 
heights of the Black Forest gradually come in sight , the most con- 
spicuous being the Mercuriusberg with its tower. In the foreground 
the ruins of Ebersteinburg (p. 198). As the train approaches Ra- 
statt , the statue of Jupiter on the palace is seen high above the 
green ramparts of the town. 

Rastatt (407 ft.) (*Post; Kreuz. — *L'6we, *Laterne) , a town 
with 11,559 inhab., formerly an insignificant place , burned by the 
French in 1689 , but soon afterwards rebuilt in a superior style by 
the celebrated Imperial general Margrave Lewis of Baden (p. 200), 
was the residence of the Margraves till the line became extinct. It 
was fortified by the Austrians in 1840 , and was a fortress of the 
Confederation down to 1866. Since the annexation of Strassburg 
to the Empire of Germany, Rastatt has lost its importance as a 
fortress, and the demolition of the works is contemplated. 

The handsome Palace , completed by the Margravine Sibylla 
Augusta (p. 200), now partially converted into a barrack, the 
garden being used as a drilling-ground , stands on an eminence 
and is crowned with a gilded statue of Jupiter. It contains a col- 
lection of Turkish trophies , taken by Margrave Lewis William, 
arms, caparisons, etc. The tower commands an extensive view 
(castellan's fee 24 kr.). In one of the apartments the preliminary 
articles of the peace concluded at Baden in Switzerland between 
France and Austria , which terminated the Spanish War of Succes- 
sion, were signed by Prince Eugene of Savoy and Marshall Yillars. 
A congress held here in 1797—1799 led to no result, and at its 
close the two French delegates were barbarously murdered by 
Austrian hussars in an adjacent wood, but at whose instigation 
it was never discovered. 

The Baden revolution began at Rastatt in 1849 with a serious 
mutiny of the soldiery , and it was also terminated here by the 
surrender of the fortress to the Prussians after a siege of three 
weeks. 

From Rastatt to Gernsbach by railway in 3 | 4 hr. (fares 48, 33, 
21 kr.). Stat. Kuppenheim (Ochs) \ r. the Favorite (p. 200). The line 
enters the valley of the Murg , here upwards of 3 M. in width. Stat. 
Rothenfels , with a small chateau of the Margrave William , a mineral- 
spring (*bath house) , and well-kept grounds. Near stat. Oaggenav rises 

Baedeker's Rhine. 5th Edit. 13 



194 Route 3d. 



BADEN. 



a monument to ML Rindeschwender , a patriotic native of Baden. Gems- 
bach, see p. 199. 

The train now crosses the Murg. Farther on , between Rastatt 
and Oos, the hunting-seat Favorite (p. 200) lies in the midst of 
shrubberies. Oos is the junction for Baden-Baden, which is reached 
hence in 10 min. 

34. Baden and Environs. 

Hotels. ^Victoria, in the Leopolds - Platz. *Badischer Hof (with 
baths), at the entrance to the town, quieter than the others. *Englischer 
Hof , near the Promenadenbriicke. *Ee"rofaischer Hof , opposite the 
Trinkhalle. These four are of the first clas : R. 1^2 fl. and upwards , L. 
24. B. 42, D. inch W. at 5 o'clock i fl. 48, A. 30 kr. — *Stadt Baden, 
at the station, similar charges. — *Hollandischer Hof and Hotel 
d'Amerique , both in the Sophien - Str. : Russischer Hof , in the Prome- 
naden-Platz ; Deutscher Hof , Lange-Str. ; *Z1hringer Hof (with baths), 
Lange-Str. : Franzosischer Hof, at the corner of the Wilhelms-Str., near 
the Trinkhalle : Hotel Royal ; *Hirsch (with baths), Lange-Str. ; *Daem- 
stadter Hof (with baths), Gernsbacher Str. ; St. Petersburger Hof (with 
baths), in the same street, good cuisine. Average charges in all these : R. 
from 1 fl., L. 18, B. 36, D. at 1 o'clock 1 fl. 12, at 5 o'clock 1 fl. 36 kr. 
— Bairischer Hof , opposite the station. — Ritter , Gernsbacher Str. ^ 
Drei Konige and *Stern (with restaurant) in the Lange - Str. ; *Stadt 
Strassburg . at the end of the new promenade . somewhat remote , R. 
i fl., D. 1 fl. i Stahlbad (Hotel Garni), Lichtenthaler Str., R. 1 fl. ; Engel, 
at the Gernsbacher Thor, moderate. Bar, at Lichtenthal (p. 197), l 1 ^ M. 
from the Conversationshaus. — The best wines of the country are Affen- 
thaler (red), Klingenberger, and Markgrafler (white). 

Cafes. At the Conversationshaus. Cafe-Restaurant a la Fleur, near the 
Russischer Hof. — Beer. Haug and Gbrger , both at the station; Geist, 
at the Gernsbacher Thor: Krone. — Cigars. Gaus , Rheinboldt , both near 
the Conversationshaus. 

Telegraph Office at the station. 

Theatre. Performances in summer by French and Italian companies \ 
in spring, autumn, and winter by that of the Carlsruhe theatre. 

Races at Iffezheim (near Oos, see above) at the beginning of September. 

Carriages. The following charges include drivers 1 fees. Fbersteinschloss 
5, or returning by Gernsbach b v \2 fl- *, Ebersteinburg 4? Fremersberg 3, or by 
the Jagdhaus 4: Jagdhaus 3: Seelach 3^2: Geroldsau, to the Waterfall 4 5 
Favorite 3 1 2 ; Gernsbach 4 1 ; 2 :' Rothenfels 41/25 Yburg 5; to the Old Castle 
(allowing time to inspect it) and back 4 fl. (Should any of these excur- 
sions occupy more than 6 hrs. the charge is increased one-half). Eber- 
steinschloss, Gernsbach, Rothenfels, Kiq^penheim, Favorite 7, Forbach 9, same 
through the Murgthal 10 fl. : Wildbad 18 fl. ; Rippoldsau 20 fl. — By time : 
1 4 hr. for 1—2 pers. 24. 3—4 pers. 30, i| 2 hr. 36 or 45 kr. ; 3 4 hp. 48 kr. 
or 1 fl. : 1 hr. 1 fl. or 1 fl. 15 kr. ; 2 hrs. 1 fl. 48 kr. or 2 fl. 12 kr. 5 3 
hrs. 2 fl'. 12 kr. or 3 fl. 5 4 hrs. 2 fl. 36 or 3 fl. 24 kr. — Donkeys: 1/2 day 
1 fl. 12 kr. , whole day 2 fl. Carriage and donkey - stands opposite the 
Englischer Hof, at the end of the avenue leading to the Conversations- 
haus, opposite the Baden Hotel, and in the Leopolds-Platz. — Omnibus 
from station to town 12 kr., inch luggage. 

English Church consecrated in 1867. 

Baden has the reputation of an expensive watering-place, and probably 
is so to those who live at the first-class hotels, attend the 'matine'es musicales 1 
(adm. 5 — 20 fr.), and liberally patronise the shops and bazaars ; but many 
of the advantages of the place may be enjoyed without very serious in- 
road on the finances. A respectable private lodging may be procured for 
6 — 10 fl. a week/ the farther from the Cursaal , the cheaper (e. g. at one 
of the numerous villas near the railway-station, such as the Villa Hauk, or 
at the village of Lichtenthal, M, distant). Breakfast in the lodging- 



BADEN. 



34. Route. 195 



houses costs 12 — 18 kr. ; dinner at a restaurant about 1 fl. (e. g. at Frau 
Zerfs, Sophien-Str. 6, at any hour after 12 ; or at Frau Goringefs, in the 
new Promenade; or at BuJiVs). Bath 12 — 36 kr. The water may he drunk 
at the Trinkhalle free of charge ; other kinds of mineral water, whey, and 
goats 1 milk, are supplied at fixed rates. 

Distances: From Baden to Lichtenthal l l \2 M., Geroldsau 3 M., Water- 
fall 5 M. , Yburg 6 M. , Fremersberg 4 M. , Jagdschloss 3 M. , Old Castle 2 
M., Ebersteinburg 4 M. , Teufelslcanzel 3 M. , Mercuriusberg 5 M. , Eberstein- 
schloss 8 M. , Favorite 7 M. ; to Forbach by Sch?nalbach and Bermersbach 
(p. 251) 9 M. 

Baden (600 ft.), or Baden-Badtn (to distinguish it from places 
of the same name near Vienna and in Switzerland), lies at the 
entrance of the Black Forest, among picturesque, well-wooded hills 
in the delightful valley of the Oos , or Oel-Bach, and vies with 
Heidelberg and Freiburg in the beauty of its situation. The climate 
is mild and salubrious. The efficacy of the waters was known to 
the Romans, who called it Aurelia Aquensis. For six centuries 
Baden was seat of the Margraves of Baden , of whom Her- 
mann III. (d. 1190 in the Crusades) first resided in the old castle. 
The new castle , above the town , was erected by the Margrave 
Christopher in 1479 , but. both town and castle suffered so much 
during the Thirty Years' War and the war of the Palatinate (1689) 
that the Margraves soon after transferred their residence to Rastatt. 

The town (10,077 inhab. , chiefly Rom. Cath.) is increasing 
rapidly owing to the growing popularity of the baths , and even in 
winter a considerable number of strangers reside here. The number 
of visitors now exceeds 50,000 annually , while numerous excur- 
sionists from Carlsruhe , Strassburg, etc., frequent the promenades 
and cafes on Sundays. One of the chief attractions of the place is 
the variety of beautiful walks afforded by the environs. 

The Oosbach separates the bathing from the town-population. 
The former confine themselves almost exclusively to the 1. bank, 
the Conversationshaus and the Trinkhalle being the centres of 
attraction. The Trinkhalle, erected in 1842, is decorated with 
14 now somewhat faded frescoes by Gotzenberger , representing 
traditions of the Black Forest. A few paces farther is the Conver- 
sationshaus , gorgeously fitted up , containing dining , concert, 
and ball rooms. The small avenue which leads from the E. side of 
the Conversationshaus to the Englische Hof, with three rows of 
shops , is the Bazaar of Baden , and a rendezvous of the gay 
world from 3 to 4, and during the open-air concerts after 7 p. m. 

The Theatre , erected in 1861 , at the entrance of the Lichten- 
thal avenue, and adjoining the Conversationshaus, is magnificently 
fitted up. Near it is the Kunsthalle with a permanent exhibition 
of modern pictures. 

The only church of Baden deserving notice is the *Pfarrkirche, 
or Stiftskirche , an interesting edifice of the 15th cent, (always 
open in the morning). The choir contains '^Monuments of the Rom. 
Cath. Margraves of Baden, from Bernhard I. (d. 1431) downwards. 

On the left: Jacob II. (d. 1511), Elector of Treves, a good Pieta, 

13* 



196 Route. 34. 



BADEN. 



Greek Chapel. 



Christopher (d. 1527), a large metal slab with armorial bearings. Ottilie 
fd. 1468), wife of Christopher I., L foecundissima principum genetrix' (in refer- 
ence to her family of fifteen children) , an old brass tablet. Leopold 
William (d. 1671 at Warasdin in Hungary) , the celebrated general who 
fought against the Turks with Starhemberg and Montecucoli ; a recumbent 
effigy on a sarcophagus supported by two Turks. Frederick, bishop of 
Utrecht (d. 1517) , a knightly figure in bronze. Bernhard (d. 1536) , with 
a statue. — On the right: Philip (d. 1588), with a statue. George (d. 
1771) , with bust. Philip (d. 1533) , a sarcophagus with recumbent figure. 
Lewis William (d. 1707 at Rastatt ; see p. 193) , the greatest general of 
his time , who commanded in 26 campaigns without sustaining a single 
defeat, and was the companion of Prince Eugene in the Turkish wars 
(monument in egregiously bad taste by Pigalle, sculptor of the monument 
of Marshal Saxe of Strassburg). Memorial stone to Maria Victoria. 
Paulina (d. 1793) , widow of the last Margrave. Above it a monument 
to Margrave PMUbert (d. 1529) and his wife. — Good modern stained glass. 
One of the windows was presented by Queen Augusta of Prussia to com- 
memorate the attempted assassination of King William in 1861. 

At the back of the church , on the site of the old Trinkhalle , a 
new Bath-House of imposing dimensions has been erected. Adjacent 
to it (to the 1.) are the hot Springs, thirteen in number, which 
issue from the rocks of the palace-terrace, or 1 Schneckengarten\ and 
are conducted by pipes to the bath-establishments. They yield up- 
wards of 100 gallons per minute, and vary from 115° to 153° Fahr. 
in temperature. The principal ingredient is chloride of sodium; 
then sulphate of lime, bi-carbonate of lime, chlorate of potash, and 
silica. The waters are beneficial in cases of gout, rheumatism, and 
bowel complaints , and are employed for drinking , as well as for 
baths. The V r sprung , the principal spring, is enclosed by ancient 
Roman masonry, and the handsome building erected over it in 1847 
is fitted up for Vapour Baths. During their construction extensive 
remains of Roman Baths were discovered, but they have since been 
built over. 

The Neue Schloss , on a hill to the N. of the town , founded in 
1479 , enlarged in 1519 , and dismantled in 1689 , was afterwards 
partially restored. It is now a summer-residence of the Grand 
Duke , and is comfortably fitted up , containing some good modern 
pictures , carving , family-portraits , etc. The curious subterranean 
vaults with stone and iron doors were probably once used as 
dungeons. 

The Leopolds-Platz is adorned with a Statue of the Grand 
Duke Leopold (d. 1852) in bronze, erected in 1861 by the 'grateful 
town' of Baden. A few min. walk to the E. is the handsome new 
Prot. Church , and farther on , the small English Church (service 
throughout the year). 

On the Michaelsberg , the road to which ascends beyond the 
Trinkhalle, rises the *Greek Chapel, erected as a tomb for the Rou- 
manian prince Michael Stourdza , who died at Baden in 1863 in 
his 17th year, and consecrated in 1866. The roof and dome are 
gilded ; the interior is sumptuously decorated with gold, mar hie, and 
painting. The vestibule contains portraits of the Stourdza family, 
by Perignon of Paris. 



Lichtenthal. 



BADEN. 



3d. Route. 197 



The Old Cemetery, at the Gernsbachcr Thor, with a statue of a 
Gravecligger in red sandstone on a lofty pedestal , contains several 
well-known names. There is also a curious representation of the 
Mt. of Olives, with Christ engaged in prayer while the disciples are 
asleep. Above the gateway a relief (1482) of the head of the 
Saviour. The large New Cemetery, on the slope of the hill, 1 M. to 
the S.E. of the town, contains several handsome monuments. 

Walks on the I. (S.) Bank of the Oos. 

A handsome avenue , beginning near the Conversationshaus, 
leads S.E. to the (iy 2 M.) Convent of Lichtenthal at Unter-Beuren 
{Bar; Ludwigsbad ; Graff 1 s Brewery) , founded in 1245 by Irmen- 
gard, grand-daughter of Henry the Lion, and widow of Hermann IV. 
of Baden , as is recorded by the picture in the choir of the church, 
which also contains the beautiful tombstone of the foundress. At 
the side-altars are the richly decorated skeletons of the martyrs St. 
Pius and St. Benedictus. The convent has escaped the devastations 
of war and the ravages of time , and is still occupied by Cistercian 
nuns , who pass their days, in strict seclusion. The *Todtencapelle 
(mortuary chapel) in front of the church belongs to the 13th cent, 
and was formerly the convent-church. It contains tombstones of 
Margraves of Baden-Durlach , and altar-pieces by the old German 
master Hans Baldung, surnamed Grim. The Orphan Asylum, within 
the precincts of the convent, was founded by the wealthy and bene- 
volent London tailor Stulz, who was afterwards ennobled. 

The pine-clad Caecilienberg , immediately behind the nunnery, 
affords pleasant walks and several charming points of view. On the 
Seelach, the opposite height, on the E. side of the Geroldsau, stands 
the modern villa of Count ' "reptowitsch , in the mediaeval style , a 
line point of view (restaurant adjacent). 

Near Lichtenthal opens the Geroldsau, a pretty grassy valley 
fringed with wood, where (iy 2 M.) the village of that name is 
situated. Beyond the village the valley, which is watered by the 
Grobach , becomes more lonely; 3 / 4 M. the *Geroldsau Waterfall 
(refreshments at the Kunzenhiltte , not far distant). — A good road 
leads from Geroldsau by Malschbach and Neuweier to (6 M.) Stein- 
bach (p. 200). To the Yburg (see below) 4i/ 2 M. 

Two smaller valleys open towards the Lichtenthaler Allee on 
the S. 5 through the first the Sauersberg may be reached in */ 2 hr. 
(fine view from the Birkenkopf). The second, the Gunzenbachthal, 
is rich in minerals. 

The ancient Yburg (1873 ft.), like Alt-Eberstein (p. 198) once 
a Roman watch-tower, and still in good preservation , rises 4 J / 2 M. 
to the S.W. of Baden. The massive ruins, surrounded by dark fir- 
wood, form a magnificent foreground to the broad valley of the 
Rhine beyond. Good carriage-road to the castle. The view, extend- 



198 Route 34. 



BADEN. 



Alt- Eber stein. 



ing as far as Strassburg and Baden, is similar to that from the Alte 
Schloss. From the Yburg to Steinbach iy 2 M. 

The Fremersberg (1807 ft.) is a wooded hill 1 hr. to the W. of Ba- 
den. Ascending from the Conversationshaus , the traveller first reaches 
the OJ2 hr.) Beutig , a height commanding several views 5 pleasant forest 
paths then lead past the lower JSelighof to the Fremersherg. The Villa 
Luitjens here , with its well-kept grounds , was formerly a monastery. 
Return by the Jagdhaus (Inn, fine view) and Badenscheuren ; or bv Winden 
and Sinzheim (p. 200). To Steinbach (p. 200) by Gallenbach 3 M. " 

Walks on the r. (N.J Bank of the Oos. 

To the Alte Schloss ( 3 / 4 hr.): a carriage-road leads past the 
Neue Schloss , and ascends to the N. , passing a Column (10 min.) 
with an inscription under an oak. At the donkey-station (3 min. 
farther ; donkey to the Alte Schloss 48 kr.) the well-kept bridle- 
path diverges to the r. , traversing fragrant pine-plantations (di- 
rection-posts at doubtful points). At the (12 min.) Sophienruhe 
(1238 ft.), a projecting rock with a pavilion and fresh spring, the 
path crosses the carriage-road, and a second time 10 min. farther. 
After 2 min. the path again diverges to the r., ascends more rapidly, 
and leads to the castle in 5 min. more. 

The *Alte Schloss Hohenbaden (1610 ft.) (restaurant) , an ex- 
tensive structure situated on a buttress of the Batter, probably 
erected in the 10th or 11th cent. , was the seat of the Margraves 
until the construction of the New Castle in 1479. Since its de- 
struction by the French in 1689 the castle has been a complete 
ruin , but the tower has been rendered accessible by means of 
stairs. The *view from the top embraces the valley of the Rhine 
fro n Speyer to a point far beyond Strassburg (not itself visible) ; 
in the foreground lies the charming valley of Baden, with its bright 
villas and smiling pastures , presenting a striking contrast to the 
sombre pine forests. 

On the summit of the Batter , near the Alte Schloss , rise the 
*Felsen ('rocks'), a number of fantastically cleft masses of porphyry, 
at one place resembling the ruined walls of a castle , at another a 
gigantic tower. A good path leads through this chaos of rock , of 
which the Felsenbrilcke , commanding a magnificent view , is the 
finest point. A broad path leads round the S. base of the rocks back 
to the castle, passing an inscription to the memory of Count Broussel, 
who caused the path to be constructed in 1839. 

On a rocky eminence 2 M. to the N.E. of the Alte Schloss, and 
above the village of Ebersteinburg, are the ruins of *Alt-Eberstein 
{^Ebersteinburg , 1601 ft.), which, like the Yburg (p. 197), was once 
a Roman watch-tower. 

A Rhenish tradition relates that the Emp. Otho I. , being unable to 
take the castle by force, induced the count to leave it by inviting him to 
a tournament at Speyer, treacherously intending to attack the stronghold 
in his absence. The count, being informed of this by the emperor's 
daughter during the dance, hastened back to his castle, and prevented its 
capture by his timely return. The tradition very properly ends with the 
marriage of the valiant count and the princess. 



Mercuriusberg . BADEN. 34. Route 199 



A beautiful prospect , similar to that from the old castle , is 
obtained hence , embracing the richly cultivated lower Murgthal 
with its flourishing villages. The tower has been restored, and is 
easily ascended (restaurant adjoining). 

If Broussel's path above mentioned be followed towards the 
E. (20 min. from the Alte Schloss descend to the r. ; 10 min. 
farther the path to Ebersteinburg diverges to the 1.) , the traveller 
reaches (in 3 / 4 hr. from the Alte Schloss) the culminating point of 
the old Baden and Gernsbach road (1223 ft.), near the Engelskanzel, 
a rock forming one of the E. extremities of the Batter. On the 
opposite side of the road rises the Teufelskanzel , a huge isolated 
block of rock rising from a grassy ravine. On the E. side of this 
rock a good bridle-path leads in windings to the (1 hr., from Baden 
2hrs.) summit of the Grosse Stauffen, or Mercuriusberg (2205 ft.), 
so named from a votive tablet to Mercury found here , now pre- 
served at Carlsruhe (p. 192), and replaced by a copy. The tower 
(138 steps) commands an extensive *view (comp. panorama sold 
here, 24 kr.) of Strassburg , Heidelberg, Baden and its environs, 
the Murgthal, etc. Refreshments at the top. A little way to the S. 
rises the Kleine Staufen (2001 ft.). The traveller may return hence 
to Baden direct by the Haslichhofe (view) , or by the Schafberg to 
Lichtenthal. 

To Gernsb ach. The old road leads from the Teufelskanzel 
towards the E. through the woo^, and soon commands a view of the 
Murgthal (better road to Gernsbach by Lichtenthal, see below). 
Below the (l 1 ^ M.) Neuhaus a broad and steep path descends to 
the r. to (I1/4 M.) Staufenberg , whence the valley is followed to 
(iy 2 M.) Gernsbach. The carriage-road from the Neuhaus continues 
to skirt the hill to the 1. 

Gernsbach (692 ft.) (*Stern; *L'6we; * Y Krone, or Post; * Wilder 
Mann; all moderate; *Pfeiffers pine-cone bath and hotel above the 
village, at the point where the road to Schloss Eberstein diverges), 
on the Murg, is a pleasant and thriving little town, chiefly inhabited 
by timber-merchants , and now frequently resorted to as a summer 
residence. To Wildbad (p. 237), 18 M. from Gernsbach , a drive 
of 5 hrs. , one-horse carr. 6 , two-horse 10 fl. ; diligence daily 
at 4 p. m. , fare 2 fl. 6 kr. To Schbnmunzach and Freudenstadt 
diligence daily. Railway from Gernsbach to Rastatt, p. 193. 

The new road from Gernsbach ascends by the stream , passing a 
solitary chapel termed the Klingel, to (2 M.) *Schloss Eberstein 
(1017 ft.), founded in the 13th cent., afterwards destroyed, and in 
1798 restored under the name of ' Neu - Eberstein (refreshments). 
It is delightfully situated on a wooded eminence , high above the 
Murg. The beautiful and extensive *view embraces the picturesque 
Murgthal, upwards nearly to Rauhmunzach, and downwards as far 
as the Rhine valley. It contains ancient relics , weapons , armour, 
etc., and in one of the apartments pictures of the 16th cent. This 



200 Route 35. 



ACHERN. 



point is generally visited from Baden (8 M., a drive of l l / 2 hr.) by 
the carriage-road passing Lichtenthal and Beuren, leading through 
beautiful woods. At Oberbeuren, 3 M. to the E. of Baden, the inn 
of the "huntsman's bugle' is indicated by a laughing visage , well 
executed in sandstone, placed above the door. 

Among the woods near Kuppenheim (p. 193), 6 M. to theN.W. 
of Baden, rises the Favorite, a chateau of the Grand Duke, erected 
in 1725 by the Margravine Sibylla , wife of the Margrave Lewis 
William (p. 193). After the death of her husband, this talented 
and beautiful woman superintended the education of her sons for 
nineteen years , and then retired to this spot , where she spent the 
remainder of her life in acts of penance and devotion. The Hermitage 
in the park contains reminiscences of this singular character. The 
steward who lives at the entrance to the park shows the chateau 
(fee 24 kr.), and supplies refreshments. 

^Allerheiligen (p. 255), which is reached via, Achern (see below), is one 
of the most interesting objects for an excursion near Baden. Carriage there 
and back from the Krone or Adler at Achern the 7 — 8 fl. ; or to the Neu- 
haus only (p. 255) , i 1 ^ fl. Travellers who desire to return from Aller- 
heiligen to Achern (2 hrs. drive) by another route, should rejoin their 
conveyance at the foot of the waterfall, drive in l 1 ^ hr. to Oppenau, then 
down the Renchthal in 2 hrs. to Lautenbach and Oberkirch, thence to stat, 
Appenweier or L RencJien (p. 201). Carr. from Achern for the whole excur- 
sion 8 — 10 fl." Carr. from Allerheiligen , see p. 255. — Mummelsee and 
Hornisgrinde, see p. 254. 

35. From Baden to Strassburg. 

Comp. Map, p. 194. 

Railway in 2 — 3^4 hrs.; express fares 3 fl. 37, 2 fl. 34 kr. , ordinarv 
3 fl. 14, 2 fl. 18, 1 fl. 37 kr. Best views to the left. 

Oos is the junction of the Baden branch with the main line. To 
the 1. rise the mountains of the Black Forest in picturesque groups : 
on a wooded height stands the grey tower of the Yburg (p. 197). 
Stat. Sinzheim. Near stat. Steinbach (Stern) , on a barren hill to 
the 1.. is a red sandstone monument to Erwin , the architect of 
Strassburg cathedral, a native of Steinbach (d. at Strassburg, 1318). 
Affenthaler , one of the best red wines of Baden , is produced in the 
vicinity. 

Stat. Buhl (Babe; Badischer Hof) is a thriving place, with an 
ancient church. Through the industrious Biihlerthal which opens 
here a picturesque road leads to (7y 2 M.) Herrenwies (p. 251). On 
the hill rises the ruined castle of Alt- Windeck , once the seat of a 
powerful race which became extinct in 1592 (pleasant excursion to 
it by the village of Kappel- Windeck at the foot of the hill). 

Stat. Ottersweier (Sonne; Adler). The Hubbad, a pretty and 
popular watering-place , with a warm mineral spring and a hydro- 
pathic establishment (not expensive), lies M. to the W. 

Stat. Achern (*Krcne . or Post , carr. to Allerheiligen 7—8 fl. ; 
*A4ler, moderate; beer at Huberts and the Engel), a thriving little 




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35. Route 201 



town, lies at the mouth of the Kappeler Thai. The market-place is 
adorned with a monument to the Grand Duke Leopold (d. 1852). 
In the vicinity is the admirably conducted Lunatic Asylum of 
Illenau, accommodating 400 patients. Hence through the Kappeler- 
Thal to Allerheiligen, see p. 254. 

At Sasbach, l 1 ^ M. N. of Achern, the French Marshal Turenne fell in 
an engagement with the Imperial General Montecucoli. The spot is mark- 
ed by an obelisk in grey granite, erected in 1829, on which the marshal's 
victories are recorded. 

About 3 | 4 M. to the W. of Sasbach lies the Erlenbad, visited by numer- 
ous invalids , chiefly from Alsace, with salt springs (70° Fahr.). Pleasant 
walk (1 hr.) to the ruins of Neu- Win deck , perched on a precipitous rock 
above the village of Lauf. From Lauf by Glashiitte to the top of the 
Ilornisgrinde (p. 253) 2 hrs. — The Brigittensehloss (or Hohenroder Schloss), 
l 1 ^ hr. from the Erlenbad (via JSchelzberg) is insignificant as a ruin, but 
commands a noble prospect, embracing the plain of the Rhine, etc. Return- 
route by (l 1 ^ hr.) Sasbachwalden (Badischer Hof), a beautifully situated 
village, to (3 M.) Achern. 

Beyond stat. Renchen the spire of Strassburg becomes visible in 
the distance to the W. Stat. Appenweier. 

From App enw eier to Oppenau diligence twice daily in 2 hrs. 
through the picturesque and fertile Renchthal. At (6 M.) Oberkirch (Post, 
good Klingenberger , a wine of the district) excellent Kirschwasser is 
distilled; the ruin of Schauenburg, 1 M. to theK., commands a fine view. 
The next village in the valley is (l 1 ^ M.) Lautenbach , then (3 M.) Sulz- 
bach (a small, unpretending watering-place , 3 j4 M. from the road) , and (3 
M.) Oppenau (p. 255). 

At Appenweier the Strassburg railway diverges from the main 
line, passing stations Kork and Kehl , and traversing a district ren- 
dered marshy by the inundations of the Kinzig , which falls into 
the Rhine at Kehl. 

Kehl (462 ft.) (*Post, or Weisses Lamm; *Rehfuss ; *Salmen, 
at the station), a small town where tobacco and paper-hangings are 
manufactured, was erected by the French as a tete-de-pont of 
Strassburg in 1688, and has frequently been besieged. During the 
siege of Strassburg in 1870 the town sustained serious damage. 

At Kehl the junction-line between the Baden and the Alsace 
railways crosses the Rhine by an iron bridge , immediately below 
the bridge of boats. The train stops at a station near the S.E. gate 
(Metzger-Thor, or Porte d'Austerlitz) of Strassburg, describes a wide 
circuit to the S. of the town, and joins the Bale-Strassburg line 
(comp. p. 217) near Konigshofen. 

Strassburg. Hotels. *Ville de Pakis (PI. a), R. from 3 fr., L. 1, 
B. 2 , A. 1 fr. ; *Maison Rouge (PI. c) ; Hotel D'angleterre (PI. b) op- 
posite the station. Vignette (PL d) , Grand 1 Rue 67, R. from 2 1 | 2 , D. 3, 
A. 3 | 4 fr. ; Hotel de France (PL e) ; Ville de Lyon , Kinderspielgasse ; 
Stadt Wien (PL f), European Hotel, both at the station, R. 2, B. 1, A. 3 J 4 
fr. ; Ours Noir and Badischer Hof (PL h) in the Metzger-Str. 3 Pension 
Prosky, Brandgasse. 

Cafes (which are also restaurants). Globe, Broglie, both in the Broglie 5 
Me'sange , Meisen-Str. ; Lanterne , by the arcades. — Beer (Strassburg beer 
highly esteemed). Stern, Concordia, both in the Gerbergraben ; Zum Alten 
Weinmarkt , Alemannia , both in the old Marche de Vin 5 Estaminet Viennois, 
Schlauchgasse, near the Kleber-Platz. 

Public Gardens. Concordia, Lips, and Tivoli, all outside the Porte des 



202 Eoute 33. 



STRASSBURG. 



From Baden 



Juifs , on the X. E. side of the town $ military music several times a 
week. The Orangerie, a well-kept garden belonging to the town, in the 
Ruprechtsau. on the r. bank of the 111. 3 4 jf. to the K. of the town.' affords 
a pleasant promenade. 

Cabs. Per drive in the town 75 c. luggage 20 c. ; from the Strassburg 
station to the Rhine-bridge 1 fr. 25 c. luesrage 50 c. \ to the Kehl station, 
inch bridge toll. 2 fr. 75 c. — For i| 4 hr. SO. \ 2 hr. i fr. 20c, 1 hr. 
2 fr. After dusk, fares one-third higher, after midnight double. 

Railway Station (PI. 2) in the N.W. part of the town, for Parts, Bale, 
Mayence , and Kehl; for the last there is also a station at the Metzger 
Thor. 

Pates de foie gras. L. Henry. Munstergasse : A. Henry, Grosse Kirch- 
gasse; Doyen, Miinstergasse 5 Hummel, Lange-Str. : Midler, Judengasse. Price 
5 to 40 fr. The geese's livers occasionally weigh 2 — 3 lbs. each. 

Principal Attractions : Cathedral (ascend tower) : Church of St. Tho- 
mas (p. 206) : Monuments of Kleber (p. 207) and Gutenberg (p. 206), and 
the Broglie. 

Strassburg, the capital of Alsace and German Lorraine, the seat 
of the president of this province and the head-quarters of the 15th 
Corps of the German army, with 79.400 inhab. . is situated on the 
III. '2 M. from the Rhine . with which it is connected by a small 
and a large canal. The town was founded by the Romans and 
named Argentoratum . and in the middle ages it became one of the 
most prosperous and powerful of the free cities of the German Em- 
pire. On the occasion of imperial processions the citizens enjoyed the 
proud distinction of having their banner borne second only to the Im- 
perial eagle. Their love of independence and skill in the arts of war 
enabled them successfully to maintain their position in spite of the 
frequent attacks of the bishops and the nobility of the country, and 
in 1445 they gained a victory over 50.000 Armagnacs who invaded 
Alsace under the Dauphin of France. On 30th Sept. . 1681 . in a 
time of peace, Louis XIV. . who had already conquered the rest of 
Alsace during the Thirty Years' War. seized the city of Strassburg. 
and France was confirmed in its possession by the Peace of Rys- 
wyck in 1697. Since the Peace of Frankfort of 10th May. 1871, 
the city has again been annexed to the Empire of Germany, and 
notwithstanding its long subjection to the French rule still to a 
great extent retains the ancient language and other characteristics 
of a German imperial city. 

The University . founded in 1621 . was closed at the time of the 
French Revolution, but was re-opened in 187*2. Many distinguished 
men have been educated here , and Goethe after a prolonged course 
of study in the society of Herder . Stilling . and other talented 
fellow students, graduated here as a doctor of laws in 1771. In 
1794 the National Convention suppressed the university as being a 
stronghold of the German element in Alsace , and in 1803 it was 
converted into a French academv. which in its turn was closed in 
1870. 

Strassburg has always been regarded as a place of the utmost 
strategical importance, and in a letter of Emp. Maximilian I. is 
termed the bulwark of the Holy Roman Empire and rommended for 



to Strassburg. STRASSBURG. 35. Route 203 



its old German honesty and bravery. The fortifications were much 
strengthened by the French, who constituted Strassburg their third 
great arsenal. The siege of 1870 began on 11th Aug., the bombard- 
ment on 18th Aug. , and after a determined and gallant resistance 
the town capitulated on 27th Sept. The pentagonal Citadel at the E. 
end of the town, on the side next the Rhine, erected by Vauban in 
1682 — 84 , was converted into a heap of ruins , while of the other 
fortifications the Steinthor on the N. and the Weiss enthurmthor on 
the W. were almost entirely destroyed. The quarters of the town 
adjoining these suffered fearfully, while in other parts the public 
buildings were those which sustained the most serious damage. 

The ^Cathedral (PI. 12) (closed from 12 to 2 o'clock), to which 
the stranger naturally first directs his steps , rises in the middle of 
the town. After a church founded by Clovis on this site about 510 
had been destroyed by lightning in 1007 , the foundation of the 
present cathedral was laid by Bishop Werner of Hapsburg in 1015, 
and the interior after a long interval was at length completed in 
1275. Under Bishop Conrad of Lichtenberg, in 1277, the con- 
struction of the facade was begun by Erwin of Steinbach (d. 1318), 
after whose death it was continued by his son John (d. 1339). The 
spire of the N. tower was completed by John Hiiltz of Cologne in 
1439, but the upper part of the S. tower remained unfinished. The 
construction of the edifice having been superintended by the ablest 
masters during four centuries , it affords the traveller an admirable 
opportunity for tracing the progress of Gothic architecture from its 
origin in the Romanesque (choir, crypt, and part of transept) to its 
highest perfection (body of the church , completed 1275 , facade 
completed 1339), and to its decline (platform between the towers, 
which according to Erwin's plan were to have been independent of 
each other, 1365 ; capricious late Gothic spire, 1439). 

The *Fa$ade by Erwin of Steinbach is justly the most admired 
part of the edifice , and presents a singularly happy union of the 
style of N. France (interrupting galleries , horizontal members , and 
fine * rose -window, 42 ft. in diameter) with the perpendicular 
tendency peculiar to German cathedrals. The walls are covered with 
delicate tracery, and the entire building is embellished with numer- 
ous sculptures (many of them restored). Those of the three *Portals, 
representing scenes from the history of the Creation and Redemption, 
are among the finest Gothic works in existence. The niches of the 
gallery of the first storey contain equestrian figures of Clovis, Dago- 
bert, Rudolph of Hapsburg (all dating from 1291), and Louis XIV. 
(erected in 1823). In 1793 several hundred statuettes were barbar- 
ously torn down and destroyed, and the beautiful spire only escaped 
the same fate from having been provided with a red republican cap 
made of metal as a protecting badge. 

The Romanesque *S. Portal, adorned with sculptures by Sabina, 
the talented daughter of Erwin , which have recently been skilfully 



2<>4 Route 3o. 



STRASSBUKO. 



Cathedral. 



restored, also merits examination. Over the doors are represented 
the Death. Burial. Resurrection, and Coronation of the Virgin: on 
the central pillar the Saviour and Kins Solomon: under these. 
Solomon's Judgment, and figures symbolical of Christianity and 
Judaism on the r. and 1. The Statue* of Ericin and Sabina at the 
same portal, by Kirstein. were erected in 1S40. 

On the y. side is the Chapel of St. Lawrence with its beautiful 
*Portal of the 15th cent. . adorned with recently restored sculptures 
from the martyrdom of the saint. 

The * Interior . consisting of nave and aisles, with transept 
and somewhat shallow choir, is 121 yds. in length and 45 yds. in 
width : nave 14 yds. in width and 99 ft. in height. It differs from 
that of other German cathedrals in possessing greater width in pro- 
portion to its height, and surpasses them in harmonious effect. The 
subdued light enters through stained glass windows of the loth 
cent. . some of which are admirably executed. The Magi with the 
Virgin in the X. aisle are modern. The pillars and columns are 
slender, but of massive construction. The *Pulpit of 1846 is richly- 
sculptured in stone. The Font in the X. transept dates from 1453. 
The Chapel of St. John . to which a few steps descend to the L of 
the choir . contains the Monument of Bishop Conrad cf Lichienlera 
(d. 1290: see above), in a (closed) court beyond which is the 
Tombstone of £ru?m, Ms wife . and one of his sons. The chapel to 
the r. of the choir, the oldest in the cathedral, dates from the 11th 
cent. The 'ErwinspfeiUr . a pillar adorned with sculptures in the 
S. transept fthe Tour Evangelists below . and angels above i . is 
ascribed to Sabina of Steinbach. 

The celebrated astronomical *Clock . constructed by Schwilgue 
i.'i l_3r — 1^4'2 in tiiT S. transept . is highly curious and ingenious. 
It replaces a similar clock by Dasipodius . which was constructed 
in 1571 and was in use down to 1789. 

The globe beneath shows the course of the stars, behind it is a per- 
petual almanac, to the 1. a piece of mechanism showing the ecclesiastical 
reckoning of time, io the r. the geocentric opposition and conjunction of 
the sun and moon : above it a dial giving the mean time : still higher is 
shown the course of the moon. The exterior attracts spectators at all 
times, especially at noon. On the first gallery an angel strikes the 
quarters on a bell in his hand: while a genius at his side reverses his 
«and-glass every hour. Higher up . around a skeleton which strikes the 
hours, are grouped figures representing boyhood, youth, manhood, and old age 
(the four quarters of the hour). TTnder the first gallery the symbolic deity of 
each day steps out of a niche . Apollo on Sunday . Diana on Monday . and 
so on. In the highest niche, at noon, the Twelve Apostles move round a 
figure of the Saviour. On the highest pinnacle of the side-tower, which 
contains the weights, is perched a cock which flaps its wings, stretches 
its neck . and crows . awakening the echoes of the remotest nooks of the 
cathedral. — The most wonderful feature of this piece of mechanism is 
that it is calculated to regulate itself and adapt it* motions to the revolu- 
tion of the seasons for an almost unlimited number of years. 

Opposite the clock is a Statue of Bishop Werner ( p. 203). exe- 
cuted by Friedrich in 1840. Two old inscriptions on the S.W. pillar 



Cathedral 



STRASSBURG. 



35. Route. 205 



at the angle formed by the transept and the body of the church 
commemorate the zeal and piety of John Geiler of Kaiser sberg 
(d. 1510), one of the most profound scholars and undaunted 
preachers of his age. 

The sculptures on the pillars of the opposite Chapel of St. Mary 
are also ascribed to Sabina. The chapel contains an Entombment of 
Mary, a relief of 1480. 

During the siege of 1870 the cathedral fortunately sustained 
little injury. Apart from numerous broken windows, the vaulting of 
the 1. aisle was alone damaged. 

The * Cathedral Tower rises from the W. fagade to a vast 
and dizzy height. Adjoining the r. Portal , round the corner , is a 
door leading to the dwelling of the custodian , from whom a 
ticket is procured (to the platform 15 c. , two-thirds of the way up 
50 c, to the top 1^2 fr-)- The visitor then ascends a tolerable stair- 
case of 330 steps to the Platform, 216 ft. above the street, which 
affords a fine view of the town and its promenades. To the E. is seen 
the Black Forest from Baden to the Blauen ; W. and N. the entire 
chain of the Vosges and the Odilienberg (p. 210) ; S. the isolated 
Kaiserstuhl (p. 244), rising from the plain ; beyond it in the extreme 
distance the Jura range. Innumerable names are engraved on the 
parapet of the platform and on the tower itself. Among them are 
those of Goethe , Herder , Lavater , and other celebrated men on a 
stone to the r. of the small E. door of the tower leading to the 
gallery. Voltaire caused his name to be engraved in a corner to the 
r., above the entrance to the clock, and below the inscription. The 
stone was struck by lightning in 1798 , and the 'Vol'' carried away, 
but the custodians have recently restored the missing syllable. 

From the platform to the summit of the tower is a height of 
249 ft. ; the entire height is therefore 465 ft. (the highest build- 
ing in Europe ; St. Martin's at Landshut in Germany 462 ft. , St. 
Peter's at Rome 435 ft. , St. Paul's at London 425 ft.). The spire 
having been injured by lightning in 1833 , it is now surrounded 
with a network of conductors. The still unfinished turrets at the 
four corners , which seem to cling precariously to the principal 
structure, contain winding staircases, leading to the l Lantern\ an 
open space immediately below the extreme summit. The massive 
cross on the top was bent by a projectile during the siege of 1870, 
but has since been restored. 

In the Schloss- Platz (PI. E, 3, 4), which lies on the S. side 
of the Minister , is situated the Gymnasium (PI. 8) , or grammar- 
school, which has superseded the French Lycee. 

The Episcopal Palace , opposite the S. portal of the Munster, 
completed in 1741 , was purchased by the town during the first 
Revolution, afterwards converted into an imperial palace, and is now 
employed as a University Building (PI. 35). It contains various 



206 Route 35. STRASSBURG. 



St. Thomas. 



lecture-rooms and a new Library recently founded to replace the 
town-library which was destroyed during the siege. 

The Maison de Notre Dame, or Liebfrauen-Stift (PI. 23) , con- 
tains an ancient plan of the cathedral , the model of the spire , and 
several Gothic sculptures. 

From the cathedral the traveller may next proceed to the church 
of St. Thomas , crossing the Gutenbergs-Platz , so called from the 
Statue of Gutenberg (PI. 4) , the inventor of printing , who made 
his first experiments at Strassburg about the year 1436. The four 
basreliefs are emblematical of the blessings of the invention in the 
four quarters of the globe , and comprise likenesses of many cele- 
brated men. — No. 16, Alter Fischmarkt, the house where Goethe 
lived when a student at Strassburg, is indicated by a marble slab. 

The (Prot.) * Church of St. Thomas (PI. 22) is accessible on 
"Wed., 11 — 1, gratis; at other times by tickets obtained at the 
stationer's , No. 1 , Thomas-Platz , 30 c. each. It was founded in 
1031 ; the choir, of plain Gothic construction, was begun in 1270; 
the Gothic nave with its double aisles is said to have been erected 
in 1313 — 1330. The choir contains a magnificent Monument in 
marble, erected by Louis XY. to Marshal S axe (d. 1750), son of 
Augustus I. of Poland and the beautiful Countess Aurora v. Konigs- 
mark. It was executed by Pigalle, who completed it in 1776 after 
twenty years' labour. The marshal is in the act of descending into 
the tomb opened for his reception by Death , while a female figure 
representing France strives to detain him, and Hercules at the side 
in mournful attitude leans upon his club ; on the 1. are the Austrian 
eagle , the Dutch lion , and the English leopard , with broken flags 
beneath , commemorating the marshal's victories over these three 
powers in the Flemish wars. The whole is an allegcry in the 
questionable taste of the age , but as a work of art masterly and 
original. 

The church also contains busts and monuments of celebrated 
professors of the University. Two mummies in a side-chapel, found 
in 1802, are said to be the bodies of a Count of Nassau-Saarbrucken 
and his daughter, who probably died in the 16th cent. 

The Temple Neuf, or Neukirche (PI. 16) of the 13th cent. , and 
the adjacent Town Library were entirely burned down during the 
siege of 1870. 

The Broglie (PI. D, 2, 3), a Platz to the N.W. of the Cathedral, 
named after a marshal of that name, is bounded on the N.E. by the 
Theatre (PI. 34), which was also burned down in 1870. Military 
parade takes place here daily at noon , and in summer a military 
band plays twice a week. 

Opposite the theatre , on the r. (E.) is the Prefecture (PI. 29), 
at the N. corner of which is a bronze statue of the prefect Marquis 
de Lezay-Marnesia (1810—14), by Grass, erected in 1857, but 
injured during the bombardment in 1870. 



WASSELNHEIM. 36. Route. 207 



In the vicinity is the Town Hall (PI. 32) which also faces the 
Broglie, and is entered from the Brand-Strasse. The picture gallery 
which it formerly contained was removed in 1870 to the com- 
mandant's residence in the Kleber-Platz , but was destroyed during 
the siege. 

The Brand-Strasse , or Rue Brule 'e , to the S.E. of the Broglie, 
and parallel with it, received its name from the burning of 2000 Jews, 
who refused to be baptized, on 14th Feb., 1349, on the spot where 
the Prefecture now stands. 

The Kleber-Platz (PI. C, 3, 4) is adorned with a bronze 
*Statue of Kleber (PI. 36), by Grass , at the foot of which reclines 
an Egyptian sphynx. At the sides are two reliefs. The inscriptions 
give a brief account of the career of the general , who was a native 
of Strassburg. On the N. side of the Platz is the residence of the 
commandant, which was destroyed by the bombardment of 1870. 

On the r. bank of the 111 , on the way to the citadel , is situated 
the handsome Academy Building (PI. 1) , erected in 1825 , where 
the university lectures on law, natural history, and mathematics are 
now delivered. (The medical faculty possesses a building of its own, 
recently erected opposite the hospital.) The upper floor contains 
the extensive Museum of Natural History. 

Pleasant walk from Strassburg to Kehl (p. 201). The road leads 
from the Metzgerthor (PI. F, 5) to the (2 M.) Rhine , and across 
the bridge of boats, 275 yds. in length, to Kehl. Railway, see 
p. 201. 

36. The Central Vosges Mts. 

The separate excursions from Strassburg described in this Route may 
easily be combined as follows so as to form an uninterrupted tour through 
this interesting district , the N. part of which is described at p. 211 , and 
the S. part in R. 38. 1st day. From Strassburg by railway to Wasseln- 
heim; walk in 3 (or drive in 2) hrs. to Wangenburg (or from Zabern over 
the Hohbarr to Wangenburg in 4 hrs., comp. p. 212); thence by the (lij 2 
hr.) Schneeberg and Mdeck to (2 J j 2 hrs) Niederhaslacli, 7—8 hrs. in all. 
— 2nd day. On foot to Grendelbruch l 1 ^ hr. , Schloss Girbaden 1 hr., 
Odilienberg 2 l fe hrs. , Mennelstein and back l 1 ^ hr. , in all 6*12 hrs. — 3rd 
day. To Hohwald 2 hrs., Hochfeld and back 3 hrs., Weiler l 3 /^ hr., Weiler- 
thal 1 J |2 hr. (railway station, see p. 217). The traveller desirous of pro- 
ceeding to the Hohenkonigsburg (p. 214) towards the S. will find good 
quarters for the night at Weiler. 

Railway from Strassburg towards the W. in 1 hr. (fares 1 fr. 
50, 1 fr. 20, 80 c.) j passing seven small stations, to Molsheim 
( Goldner Pflug) , a small town on the Breusch , at the foot of the 
Vosges, a fortified place in the middle ages. The 'Fleischhaus' here 
dates from the 16th cent. The railway now divides into three 
branches. 

1. Railway to the N. (in 3/ 4 hr. ; fares 1 fr., 75, 50 c.) to Was- 
selnheim, French Wasselonne (Goldner Apf el), a small town prettily 
situated on the Mossig , with the ruins of an old castle , and exten- 



208 Route 36. 



SCHNEEBERG. 



The Central 



sive stocking factories. Carriage to Wangenburg (p. 209) and back 
15 fr. 

2. Railway to the E. (in 8 min. ; fares 25, 20, 10 c.) to Mutzig 
(Post), a town with 3600 inhab. and an important manufactory of 
weapons , situated in the valley of the Breusch , 13/ 4 M. above 
Molsheim. 

3. Railway to the 8. (in 50 min. ; fares 1 fr. 25. 1 fr.. 70 c.) to 
Bare. Stat. Rosheim (Krone) . with 4000 inhab. . has a flue Ro- 
manesque church of the 11th cent. Stat. Ober-Ehnheim , French 
Obernai (Zwei Schliissel; Bar), with 5000 inhab.. and several 
manufactories , was raised to the dignity of a free imperial town by 
Emp. Frederick II. It possesses a town-hall of 1523, restored in 
1849 , and several picturesque old houses. Then Barr (*Hecht, 
R. l 1 ^; B. 1 fr. : Krone), situated at the mouth of the Kirneckthal . 

The Nideck and Wangenburg. Railway to Mutzig, see 
above. A diligence , which corresponds with the first train from 
Strassburg . ascends hence on the Schirmeck road . through the 
picturesque wooded valley of the Breusch (see above), to Urmatt (on 
the hill to the 1. rises the ruin of Girbaden . see p. 209) . but the 
traveller should alight 3 / 4 M. on this side the village , at the point 
where a solitary house with a barn (6 M. from Mutzig) stands at the 
entrance to the Haslachthal . and a finger-post on the r. indicates 
the route to (IV4 M.) 

Niederhaslach (Apfel, Linde, both tolerably good). The spacious 
Gothic church of St. Florian, of the 13th and 14th cent., possesses 
beautiful old stained glass windows. To the E. of the choir, in the 
wall of the court surrounding the church is a tombstone of 1330, 
with the inscription "Alii Erwini ruagistrf, to whom the construction 
of the church is attributed.- 

The road continues to ascend the Haslach , and at the end of 
( 3 / 4 M.) Oberhaslach it divides. The traveller follows the branch to 
the r., leading through a beautiful and gradually contracting dale to 
the (2^2 M.) fifth saw-mill from Oberhaslach. A few paces on this 
side of it a broad footpath ascends to the r. into the beautiful rocky 
and pine-clad *Valley of the Nideck , which vies with the finest 
scenery of the Black Forest. At the (1 M.) upper end of the valley the 
Nideck forms a waterfall. 80 ft. in height. High above it stands the 
square tower of the Castle of Nideck, termed by an old tradition the 
castle of the giants, to which a zigzag path ascends to the r., crossing 
the brook at the top of the hill. The traveller may now ascend the 
road on the 1. bank of the brook to the ( 3 / 4 M.) Nidecker Forsthaus 
(refreshments), whence a road leads to (4 M.) Wangenburg (see 
below). It is preferable . however, to make a circuit by the (1 hr.) 
Schneeberg (3158 ft.), the summit of which commands an extensive 
view towards the W. over Alsace , to the E. over the plain of Lor- 
raine . and to the N. over the N. Vosges Mts. The Lottelfels. the 



Vosges. 



GIRBADEN. 36. Route. 209 



farthest rock to the S. of those which cover the summit, sways when 
trodden upon. A somewhat steep path descends hence in 1 hr. to 

Wangenburg Hotel Weyer , D. 2*^, pension from 4 fr.) , a 
small scattered village commanded by the ruins of the castle of that 
name , situated on meadows surrounded by beautiful pine forest, 
and frequently visited in summer on account of the purity of its 
air (1476 ft. above the sea-level). 

A good road, chiefly through wood, descends the valley of the 
Mossig from Wangenburg to Romansweiler and M.) Wasseln- 

heim (see p. 207) , whence Strassburg may be reached by train in 
the evening. — Zabern, 10 M. from Wangenburg, may either be 
reached by the footpath mentioned at p. 212, via Obersteigen and 
Reinhardsmiinster , or by a good road via Maursmunster , French 
Marmoutier (5 M. from Wangenburg). The church of St. Maurus, 
which belongs to an ancient and once powerful Benedictine Abbey, 
now suppressed, possesses a handsome Romanesque W. Facade. The 
diligence from Wasselnheim to Zabern usually passes through Maurs- 
miinster in the afternoon. 

8 chlos s G irbaden. Railway from Strassburg to Mutzig (or to 
Rosheim, see below), see pp. 207, 208. From Mutzig the traveller 
follows the Schirmeck road as far as a finger-post (IV4 M. from the 
station) , where the road to (^3 M.) Griessweiler diverges to the 1. 
A few paces beyond the W. end of this village the road unites with 
that from Drinsheim, which leads towards the S.W., chiefly through 
wood, to (31/2 M\) Laubenhain in the valley of the Magelbach. From 
Laubenheim a footpath ascends in ^ nr - to Schloss Girbaden, one 
of the oldest and most extensive fortresses in Alsace , which is said 
once to have possessed 14 gates and 14 court-yards, and is still an 
imposing ruin. Fine view. The Chapel of St. Valentine, which has 
been erected among the ruins, is much frequented by pilgrims. The 
key of the castle is kept at the Girbadener Hof (refreshments), 10 min. 
below the summit. Beyond Laubenhain the carriage-road passes 
the hill of Girbaden on the S. side (at a saw-mill a road diverges to 
the castle to the r.) and ascends the pretty valley of the Magelbach 
to Grendelbruch and (7y 2 M.) Hohwald (see p. 211). From Gir- 
baden via Klingenthal (see below) to the summit of the Odilienberg 
is a walk of about 2y 2 hrs. — From Rosheim (railway station, 
p. 208) Girbaden may be reached in iy 4 hr. with the aid of the 
omnibus which runs to Grendelbruch on the arrival of the first 
train from Strassburg. 

The Odilienberg. Railway to Ober-Ehnheim, or Barr , see 
p. 208. From Ober-Ehnheim an omnibus runs to the Odilienberg 
several times weekly, fare 3 fr. ; carriage there and back 12 — 15 fr. 
The road leads to the W. by (2y 2 M.) Nieder-Otrott, and then turns 
to the r. to (IV4 M.) Klingenthal, following the course of the Ehn. 
On the hill to the 1. are the castles of Rathsamhausen and Lutzel- 
burg. At Klingenthal a road to Girbaden diverges to the r. (see 
Baedeker's Rhine. 5th Edit. 14 



210 Route 36. 



ODILIENBERG. 



p. 209). The road to the Odilienberg crosses the Elm and skirts the 
base of the Koepfel to the M.l foresters house of Vorbruck, 
where it crosses the Fullochbach . a tributary of the Elm. It then 
ascends the valley of the former , through beautiful woods , and 
reaches the summit in lVo hr. — Pedestrians effect a considerable 
saving by following the road from Nieder-Otrott to Ober-Otrott, and 
7 min. beyond the latter taking a forest path to the 1. , which 
follows an ancient Roman causeway and leads to the top in 1 hr. 

From Barr (j>. '208) to the Odilienberg the route is more pictu- 
resque and better shaded than that from Ober-Ehnheini. Finger- 
posts at doubtful points. The road leads from the station to the N., 
via (i M.) Heiligenstein (Inn) and the (t i UM*~) ruined Augustine 
monastery of Truttenhausen, founded in 1181 (opposite to it, to the 
W. . are the ruins of the castle of Landsberg , erected in the loth 
cent.), and then through wood to the summit. SVo. M. farther. 

The ^Odilienberg ('2'296 ft.) is a long mountain with a rocky 
eminence ('2469 ft.) in the middle, on the N. side, on which stands 
a monastery founded by St. Ottilie. the patron saint of Alsace. The 
abbey church, which is much frequented by pilgrims, and has even 
been visited by emperors and popes, contains the tomb of the foun- 
dress and several chapels with scenes from her history (*Inn at the 
monastery, pension 5 fr.). The Odilienberg was fortified at a remote 
period. Maximian, the colleague of Diocletian, is said to have erected 
a castle here against the Allemanni about the year 300. Remains 
of the wall connected with this castle . termed the Heidenmauer , 
6 — 10 ft. in height, and 6Vo ft. in thickness, which appears to have 
encircled the entire hill are still extant. The hill had probably 
served the Gauls as a place of refuge at a still earlier period. Coins 
from Augustus to Constantine have been found here. The highest 
point of .the Odilienberg is the *Mennelstein ('2673 ft.), which rises 
to the S. . and may be ascended from the monastery in l / 2 nr - I 11 
clear weather it commands a view embracing almost the entire 
Alsace . the Breisgau as far as the Black Forest . the Yosges (to the 
S. the Andlauer Schloss and valley), the Rhine, and towards the S. 
the Alps. At the X. extremity of the Odilienberg lies the ruin of 
Waldsberg , or Hagelschloss 3 to the S.AV. of which is the ruin of 
Dreisttin. buried in wood. The Odilienbrunnen. the water of which 
has been used by thousands of superstitious devotees to alleviate 
diseases of the eye. lies below the monastery, on the E. side. 

From the Odilienberg the traveller may proceed by a path 
through the woods (indicated by ringer-posts . but safer to take 
a guide) in '2 hrs. to Hohwald (see below), 

Hohwald. Railway from Strassburg to Barr. see p. '208. 
Thence to Hohwald an omnibus several times weekly, fare 3 fr. ; 
carriage 8 — 10 fr. — The carriage-road from Barr to Hohwald, 
S 3 4 M, . first leads to the S. to Mittelbergheim . then to the E. to 
Andlau, a small town with '2000 inhab. . prettily situated at the 



ZABERN. 



37. Route. 211 



entrance to the Andlau-Thal, with an ancient abbey church, altered 
at the beginning of last century. The road then ascends the valley 
of the Andlau, through beautiful woods, passing the ruins of Andlau 
and Spesburg on the r., and numerous saw-mills. Pedestrians should 
walk through the town of Barr and from the W. end of it ascend 
the road on the 1. bank of the Kirneck as far as the (2^4 M.) 'Holz- 
platz" , where there are several saw-mills and extensive stores of 
wood. The carriage-road terminates here, and a 'Schlittenweg' (i. e. 
'sledge-track' for the descent of timber from the mountains) begins, 
by which the forester's house of Welschbruch is reached in iy 4 hr. ; 
a footpath thence leads to Hohwald in another y 2 nr - 

Hohwald (2198 ft.) (Hotel du Hohwald, D. 2V 2 , pension from 
4 fr.) is a straggling village with 600 inhab. , and a Prot. and a 
Rom. Catholic Church. Its healthy and at the same time sheltered 
situation and picturesque environs adapt it for a prolonged stay, 
and it is a favourite summer resort of the Strassburgers. Excursions 
to the Cascade du Hohwald , prettily situated , 20 min. from the 
inn ; to the summit of the Hochfeld, French Champ du Feu(3b$i ft), 
a beautiful point of view, l 1 ^ hr. 

From Hohwald a road descends by Breitenbach to (6^4 M.) Weiler, 
French Villi (*Alte Post , moderate) , from which a diligence runs 
daily to (5 M.) the railway stat. Weilerthal, French Vol de Villi 
(pp. 213, 217). 

37. From Strassburg to Saarburg (and Nancy). 
The N. Vosges Mts. 

Railway in 3 hrs. , fares 8 fr., 4 fr. 95, 5 fr. 35 c. (to Nancy in 5^4 
hrs.). 

As far as Zabern the scenery is uninteresting. The Zorn is 
crossed several times. At stat. Vendenheim the line to Mayence 
diverges to the r. (p. 222). Then five small stations. 

Zabern (*Sonne, R. l 1 ^? D. fr- '■> *Stadt Frankfurt; Schwar- 
zer Ochse), also termed Elsass- Zabern to distinguish it from Rhein- 
Zabern and Berg-Zabern (in the Rhenish Palatinate, p. 236), the 
French Saverne , the Tabernae of the Romans , and formerly the 
capital of the "Wasgau, is now a dull town with 6400 iuhab., on the 
Rhine- Marne- Canal, which is crossed here by several bridges. The 
conspicuous Schloss , constructed of red sandstone by Egon v. Fiir- 
stenberg , Bishop of Strassburg , in 1667, is now partially used as 
government offices. An Obelisk in the planted square in front of it, 
erected in 1666 , records the distances of 100 different towns from 
Zabern in German miles. 

An old historian describes Zabern as being surrounded in 1550 
by a wall with 'as many towers as the year has weeks, and as many 
pinnacles as the year has days', but of these all trace has disappeared, 
and with the exception of a few Roman antiquities at the Gymna- 
sium, Zabern contains nothing to detain the traveller. 

14* 



212 Route 37. 



LUTZELBURGr. 



Above the town rises the tower of the ancient fortress of G-reifenstein. 

Xear the latter is the natural Grotto of St. Vitus, containing a chapel and 
hermitage to which numerous pilgrimages are made. On the other side of 
the mountain rises the loftily situated ruin of Hoh-Barr (see below). 

Excur sion in the iV. Vosges. The following walk through part of 
this mountain district had better be taken with a guide (3 fr.) : from Zabern 
towards the S.E. to the ( 3 )4 hr.) *Hoh-Barr , an extensive ruined castle, 
erected in the 12th cent., restored in 1583, and abandoned to decay at the 
close of last century. It stands on a wooded hill , and almost appears to 
grow out of the fantastic coloured sandstone and conglomerate rocks on 
the summit. Refreshments may be obtained of the forester who lives at 
the castle. The highest point of the huge and otherwise inaccessible 
rocks may be reached by a ladder. The view embraces part of the Vosges, 
and the plain of the Rhine as far as the Black Forest. 

From Hohbarr to the ruin of Gross-Geroldseck is a walk of 10 min., 
to that of Klein-Geroldseck 10 min. more-, thence to Haber acker, where re- 
freshments may be procured at the forester's, l \% hr. The ruin of Oehsen- 
stein, which rises above the foresters house, belonged to the Landgraves of 
Hessen-Darmstadt down to 1/89. Then chiefly through wood, by a path 
occasionally difficult to trace , passing (1 hr.) a group of houses termed 
An der Haardt, and the 0)2 hr.) Capelle auf cler Hueb, descending abruptly 
into a narrow dale 0|2 hr.) , and ascending out of it as steeply : ij 4 hr. 
Kreuz, where the path ascends to the 1. in 20 min. to the Dagsburg. The 
castle which once crowned this rock was destroyed by the French in 
1675 , and the chapel alone remains. At the foot of the hill lies the (20 
min.) village of Dagsburg (#Post) , called by the French Dabo. The road 
to Liitzelburg leads hence via (3 M.) Schafershof. At (i 1 ^ M.) Neumiihl 
the road reaches the valley of the rapid Zorn , a beautiful dale enclosed 
by wooded mountains. In the middle of this valley are situated (l 1 ^ ML) 
several mills termed Sparsbrod (*Inn). The (1 M.) railway - bridge men- 
tioned below is next reached , and 2 M. farther the station of Liitzelburg 
(see below). 

Those who wish to visit the Hoh-Barr only , and then to proceed 
towards the S., should turn to the S. from Geroldseck to the Erlenhof 
and (1^2 M.) St. Gall, and proceed thence by (1 M.) Reinhardsmunster and 
(l 1 j 4 M.) Obersteigen to (1 1 | 4 M.) Wangenburg (see p. 209): spend the night 
there, and then cross the Schneeberg and the Nideck to Xiederhaslach. 

The railway here intersects the Vosges range at its narrowest 
point, and near Zabern enters the narrow and picturesque valley of 
the Zorn , in which it runs parallel with the high road , the brook, 
and the Rhine-Marne-Canal. Bridges, lofty embankments, viaducts, 
and tunnels are passed in rapid succession. 

Liitzelburg (Zur Eiseribahn) , the only station on this part of 
the line, is a pleasant village, the first in Lorraine. It is separated by 
the Zorn from a bold rock crowned with the Liitzelstein , or Lutzel- 
burger Schloss, which was fortified down to the end of last century. 
Beneath the castle the rock is penetrated by a railway tunnel 270 yds. 
in length. 

The town and castle were besieged in 1453 by the Count Palatine 
Frederick, and taken by him after a siege of nine weeks. The lords of 
the castle effected their escape , but their noble race soon afterwards be- 
came extinct. 

The small mountain stronghold of Pfalzburg lies on a lofty rock 3 M. 
to the N. of Liitzelburg. Pleasant excursion thither, returning by the 
Carlssprung to Zabern. 

The line soon quits the valley of the Zorn. A handsome bridge 
spans the river with one arch, and w ith the other the Rhine-Marne- 
Canal , which here turns to the r. side of the valley. The railway 



SAARBURG. 



37. Route. 213 



and the canal then penetrate the last hill by means of the remark- 
able Arzweiler (or Archwiller) Tunnel, 2945 yds. in length. 

Saarburg (*• 'Hotel du Sauvage) , on the Saar , a small town en- 
closed by walls and gates , which must not be confounded with the 
place of that name in the district of Treves , forms the boundary 
between the two languages, French being spoken in the upper, 
and German in the lower part of the town, but the line of demarca- 
tion is less strongly defined than formerly. The town possesses 
nothing to interest the traveller. It is termed Pons Saravi in the 
Itinerary of the Antonines. The old fortifications were destroyed by 
Margrave Albert of Brandenburg. 

From Saarburg omnibus twice daily in hr. (fare 2 fr.) to Fin- 
stingen, and in i l \ 2 hr. more (fare 2 fr.) to Saarwerden, French Saar- 
union (Hotel du Boeuf) , a place consisting of the two small towns of 
Bockenheim and Neu-S.aarwerden; thence in 2 hrs. (fare 3^2 fr.) to Saar- 
gemiind, see p. 223. Railway in course of construction. 

Beyond Saarburg the railway leads to Hemmingen , Rixingen or Rdchi- 
court, Avricourt (the German frontier-station and seat of the custom-house), 
Embermenil , Marainviller , and Luneville (with 15,000 inhab. , situated at 
the confluence of the Vezouse and the Meurthe , where the Treaty of 1801 
between France and Austria was concluded), beyond which it follows the 
valley of the Meurthe. Stations Blainville (whence a branch-line runs to 
Vesoul and Epinal) , Rosieres-av.x- Salines , Varange- Ville St. Nicolas. The 
train finallv crosses the Rhine-Marne-Canal and the Meurthe and reaches 
Nancy (p. 121). 



38. The Upper, or High Vosges Mts. 

Four days suffice for a rapid glance at the Upper Vosges Mts. : By 
railway in the afternoon from Strassburg to Weilerthal (p. 217), and thence 
in the evening to summit of the Hohen-Kbnigsburg in 2 1 J-2hrs. — 1st day. To 
Rappoltsweiler 2 hrs., Kaiser sberg 2 hrs., Orbey 2^4 hrs., in all hrs. — 
2nd Day. Lac Blanc 2 hrs., Reisberg 3 \± hr., Lac de Daren l 1 ^ hr., ScMucht 
1 3 |4 hr., in all 6 hrs. — 3rd Day. Miinster 3 hrs., Metzeral hr. , in all 
4 I |4 hrs. — 4th Day. Over the Herrenberg to Wildenstein in 4 3 )4 hrs., 
Wesserling 2 hrs. , in all 6 3 |4 hrs. — This tour may be made as a contin- 
uation of the excursions from Strassburg to the Central Vosges Mts., men- 
tioned in R. 35. 

From stat. Weilerthal, French Vol de Ville (pp. 211, 217), a 
good road ascends in windings to the (8 M.) summit of the Hohen- 
konigsburg. Carriage to the castle from Schlettstadt 15 — 18 fr. 

Pedestrians follow the road skirting the hill to. the 1. of the railway 
(to the r. on the hill where the Leberthal and Weilerthal divide, rises 
the ruin of Frankenburg) as far as the ( 3 |4 M.) third road diverging to the 
1. , where a stone indicates this as the route to the Hohkonigsburg and 
Wick (a forester's house). About 3 |4 M. farther another stone indicates 
the way to the r. The road traverses beautiful woods at the base of the 
Hohkonigsburg. After l 3 j 4 M. more a footpath diverges to the 1. (indicated 
by a stone with the inscription 'Hohkonigsburg, pietons" 1 , and by a board 
attached to a larch 50 paces farther), which ascends in 1 hr. (the last 20 
min. again on the carriage-road) to the Hohenkbnigsburger Forsthaus 
(*Kiefer's Inn). 

Another very pleasant route also indicated by direction-posts, leads 
from Leberau (p. 217) to the (5 M.) forester's house. Good roads also as- 
cend from St. Hippolyte (p. 218) in l 1 ^ hr., and from Kestenholz (p. 217) 
via Kintzlieim in 2 hrs. 



214 Route 38. 



KAISERSBERG. 



The Upper 



From the forester's house to the top is an ascent of 20 min. more. 
The path to the r. by the huge S.W. tower leads through the principal 
entrance to a court-yard, from which the visitor passes through the Loicen- 
Thor (commemorating the dukes of the house of Hohenstaufen) to the 
inner quadrangle. 

The *Hohen-K6nigsburg, 1679 ft. above the sea-level, was one 
of the largest mediaeval castles in Germany. Its huge walls of sand- 
stone, towering above the dark green chestnut wood, are strikingly 
picturesque. The ruins are very extensive and still in tolerable 
preservation. Nothing certain is known of its origin, but it has 
obviously been the work of several centuries. 

As early as 1462 the castle was partially destroyed by the Bishop 
of Strassburg and the Archduke Sigmund of Austria on account of 
depredations committed by its proprietor. It was subsquently re- 
stored, but was bombarded and burned down by the Swedes in 1633. 
In 1864 it was purchased by the town of Schlettstadt , and steps 
have since been taken to prevent its farther dilapidation. 

The platform of the E. tower commands the most extensive 
*view . embracing the Leberthal which lies far below , and the vast 
plain of the Rhine, bounded on the E. by the mountains of the 
Kaiserstuhl and the Black Forest, and on the W. by the Yosges. 
On the slopes of the latter are enthroned numerous castles : to the 
E. the Frankenburg (p. 213); to the N. the two castles of Scher- 
weil ('p. 217 ) : farther distant Schloss Landsberg near Barr (p. 210) ; 
on the slope of the hill to the W. , to the 1. of the direction in 
which Schlettstadt lies , is the Kintzheimer Schloss ; to the S. the 
two upper castles of Rappoltsweiler (p. 218). Towards the S. in 
the extreme distance the snowy peaks of the Bernese Alps are 
visible in clear weather. 

From the Hohen-Konigsburg a path not easily mistaken leads to 
the S.W.j passing a forester's house (20 min.) to the r., which has 
been already visible from above . to ( 3 / 4 hr.) Tannenkirch (Lirot's 
Inn), whence a new footpath leads to Rappoltsweiler in iy 2 hr. The 
old path, however, is preferable, although steeper, as it passes close 
to the Castles of Rappoltsweiler (a boy may be engaged to show the 
way as far as Hohen-Rappoltstein. 1 fr.). 

Rappoltsweiler, see p. 218. 

F r o m Rappoltsweiler to K aiser sberg (6 M.). The road 
leads through vineyards on the hillside by (i 1 /o M.) Hunaweier (to 
the 1. the ancient Zellenberg . a village and castle) and (l 1 ^ M.) 
Reichenweier (Krone). Then M.) Kaisersberg (* Krone) , an 
old town with several cotton factories, situated at the mouth of the 
picturesque Weiss-Thai, and commanded by the ruins of the ancient 
Kaiserburg. which was destroyed during the Thirty Years' War. The 
town was founded in the early part of the 13th cent, by Emp. 
Frederick II. of the Hohenstaufen family, who were dukes of Swabia 
and Alsace and were solicitous for the welfare of their land. The 
famous prearher John <>eiler (p. 205) was a native of Kaisersberg. 



THE VOSGES 



SCHEEl 





-,• — ^ Gi/rufprtcA 



bach/? 




(Herrenln 
HhAn y^- 



Afimste: 

•irrniu'h \ ' i / -- - ■ v Ifestfgdterv * 




Vosges. 



LAC BLANC. 



38. Route. 215 



The handsome Town Hall dates from 1604. The spacious church, 
coeval with the foundation of the town, possesses a fine Romanesque 
portal, and contains an Entombment in stone, of the 15th cent., 
and a good early German high *altar-piece (beginning of 16th 
cent.). 

The Rail id ay (stat. Benmveier, p. 218) is 4 l |2 M. distant from Kaisers- 
berg. Omnibus twice daily. — From Kaisersberg by (2 M.) Ammerschwihr 
to the Trois Epis^ see p. 219. 

The traveller now proceeds to the "W. from Kaisersberg , and 
follows the high road ascending the broad Weissthal (or Schnier- 
lach-ThaU French La Poutroye) to (4*^ M.) Hachimette. Five min. 
beyond the village he turns to the 1. to (2 M.) Orhey (* Croix d'Or, 
above the church) , a mountain village where French is spoken 
(German Uriels). Diligence once daily to Kaisersberg. Guide to the 
Lac Blanc, the Reisberg, and the Lac de Daren advisable (3 — 4 fr.); 
from the Lac de Daren to the Schlucht unnecessary. 

Two hours' walk to the W. of Orbey, and nearly on the summit 
of the granite ridge which separates the Wasgau from Lorraine, are 
situated the Lac Blanc (Petitdemangds Inn) and the Lac Noir. 
The former, which derives its name from the quartz at the bottom, 
is about 3 M. in circumference ; it is bounded on two sides by lofty 
precipices, and on a third by huge masses of granite piled together. 
The Lac Noir, about half the size of the other, lies ^4 nr - to the S. 
The discharge of the two lakes forms the Weiss, which unites with 
the Fecht and falls into the 111 below Colmar. 

On the W. side of the Lac Blanc rises the *Reisberg (3310 ft.), 
a huge perpendicular granite rock , the summit of which may be 
attained from the lake in 3 / 4 hr. The view extends over the Vosges, 
a great part of Lorraine , the Black Forest , and the entire plain of 
the Rhine. From a point a little to the S. a survey is obtained 
of the Miinsterthal , with the Lac Noir in the foreground , and the 
snowy Alps in the extreme distance. 

Leaving the Reisberg ,and following the crest of the mountain 
for iy 2 — ^ hrs., the traveller reaches the Lac de Daren, a small 
mountain-lake like the above, but more picturesque, being enclosed 
by pines and bounded on three sides by precipitous rocky banks. 
The S. side of the lake is bounded by an embankment , recently 
constructed , a road over which descends to Sulzeren (p. 216) in 
1 hr. The road to the Schlucht (l 3 / 4 hr.) turns to the r. , 7 min. 
from the lower end of the lake , and some hundred paces above a 
chalet, and ascends to the r. between the two rocky heights. Beyond 
the (35 min.) top of the saddle a distinct cart-road leads to the 1., 
soon passes a chalet on the 1. , and enters the wood (a gate at the 
entrance). 

The *Schlucht, French Col de la Schlucht (4100 ft.), a pictu- 
resque mountain pass between the Gazon de Fete (4258 ft.) and the 
Hoheneck (see below), surrounded by precipitous rocks and beautiful 
pine forest, is traversed by the road from Colmar through the 



216 Route 38. 



WILDENSTEIN. 



Munsterthal to Gerardmer and Epinal. On the summit of the pass, 
which forms the boundary between Germany and France , are situ- 
ated several houses, one of which is an *Inn fR. 2 fr.. B. 60, A. 
50 c). 

The *Hoheneck (4480 ft.) , the highest of the Vosges Mts. after the 
Gebweiler Belchen (p. 222), and more centrally situated, affords a 
beautiful and extensive view. The route from the Schlucht to the ( 3 |4 hr.) 
summit can hardly he mistaken if the gentry sloping ridge of the hill be 
followed towards the S. The view exten s far beyond the Vosges Mts., 
embracing the plain of the Rhine as far as the Black Forest , the Jura 
towards the S., and the French departmer t of the Vosges towards the W. 
In the foreground towards the E. is the beautiful Munsterthal , towards 
the W. the valley of Gerardmer with the Retournemer and Longemer 
lakes. (The pleasantest view of the latter is obtained, about l 1 j 2 M. from 
the pass, from the road from the Schlucht to Gerardmer, which tra- 
verses beautiful woods.) The traveller may descend from the Hohen- 
eck towards the E. to the Gaslenei chalet, whence Metzeral (see below) 
is reached in 1 hr. 

The admirably constructed road from the Schlucht into the 
Munsterthal descends the whole way to the foot of the mountain 
through beautiful woods. A short distance below the pass it pene- 
trates the rocks by a short tunnel. The scenery here is imposing. 
As Sulzeren (Stadt Gerardmer) is approached (7y 2 M. from the 
Schlucht), the valley becomes more and more attractive. Stosswier, 
iy 2 M. farther, may be reached by the pedestrian, who cuts off the 
windings of the road and thus avoids Sulzeren , in 2 l /± hrs. from 
the Schlucht. Fj om Stosswier the road is nearly level to (1 M.)^ 

Minister, see p. 220. 

From Miinster to W ildenstein 5 hrs., a very interesting 
route (guide from Metzeral desirable , 2 i /. 2 fr.). The road follows 
the valley to (274 M.) Breitenbach (Forelle) and (i l / 2 M.) Metzeral 
(*Goldne Sonne, beyond the bridge over the Fecht). Exactly oppo- 
site the inn it turns to the r., continuing to follow the valley of the 
Fecht; then, after 2 M., to the 1. ; a bridge is now crossed, and 
the valley of the Fecht again ascended as far as (*/ 2 M.) a Forester's 
House (refreshments). 

The road is quitted here by a wooden causeway to the r. , used 
for the timber traffic , which ascends the Herrenberg in numerous 
windings, traversing the Kbnigswald in 2 hrs. At the Herren- 
berger Wasen at the top is a large chalet; 20 min. farther, on the 
W. slope of the hill, another chalet, with a spring of fresh water 
near it. From the top of the hill to Wildenstein 1 hr. ; path rugged 
and often steep. 

Wildenstein (* Sonne), a thriving village, lies very picturesquely 
at the head of the St. Amarintlial, one of the mostbeautiful valleys 
of the Vosges , inhabited by Rom. Catholics of the German tongue. 
About 1 hr. above the village, beyond the Wildensteiner Glashiitte, 
the Thur , which rises on the Grand Ventron , forms a waterfall 
termed the Heidenbad. or Bain des Pay ens, 33 ft. in height. 

To the r. of the. road, i^M. below Wildenstein, suddenly rises 



SCHLETTSTADT. 



39. Route. 217 



the Schlossherg , an isolated and precipitous wooded eminence , on 
the S. side of which stand the ruins of the castle of Wildenstein. 
This stronghold formerly belonged to the Abbey of Murbach (p. 221), 
by which it was surrendered during the Thirty Years' War to Marshal 
Caumont de la Force. In 1634 it was betrayed to the troops of 
Lorraine , and ten years later was taken and destroyed by General 
v. Erlach, the commander of the Weimar troops. 

The road next passes (2^2 M.) Krilth, (1^4 M.) Oderen, and 
(1^4 M.) Felleringen , and reaches (iy 4 M.) Wesserling (Hotel 
de Wesserling , near the station) , a place of modern origin , very 
picturesquely situated on a hill , with a colony of extensive cotton 
factories. On the Col de Bussang , on the W. slope of the hill, 
5 M. from Wesserling, is the source of the Moselle. 

Railway to Thann and Lutterbach, see p. 222. 

39. From Strassburg to Bale. 

Comp. Map, p. 214. 
Railway in 3*| 2 — 6 hrs. (fares 11 fr. 50, 6 ft. 70, 3 fr. 85 c.) Views 
on the right. 

Near Konigshofen the Baden junction line to Kehl (p. 201) di- 
verges to the 1. To the r. near Ostwald is a small colony of work- 
houses , erected by the Strassburgers as a penitentiary in 1841. 
Stations Geispolsheim , Fegersheim , Limersheim , Erstein , Matzen- 
heim, Benfeld, Kogenheim, Ebersheim. Tobacco is extensively culti- 
vated in this broad plain. The line now runs nearer the mountains. 

Schlettstadt (*Goldnes Lamm; Adler ; Bock) , a dull town with 
10,000 inhab., once a free city of the German Empire, was fortitied 
by Vauban after its capture by the French , but was taken by the 
Germans on 25th Oct. 1870, without serious difficulty. Above the 
ramparts rises the red sandstone tower of the Cathedral , a chaste 
early Gothic structure , founded by the Hohenstaufen in 1094 , but 
not completed until the close of the 13th cent. The choir dates from 
the beginning of the 14th cent. , and the tower was added shortly 
afterwards. Schlettstadt also possesses several picturesque houses 
of the 16th cent. 

From Schlettstadt to Markirch railway in 1 hr. (fares 2 fr., 
1 fr. 55, 1 fr. 10 c). The line ascends the Leberthal towards the W. , a 
picturesque valley enclosed by wooded hills , with an industrious popu- 
lation. To the r. of stat. Kestenholz , French Ghatenois, rise the ruins of 
Ortenberg, with its hold tower, and Ramstein, both locally known as the 
Scherweiler Schloss. Stat. Weilerthal, French Val de Ville, lies at the 
entrance of the valley ascending to the r. to Weiler (and Hohwald , see 
p. 211). Stations Vanzelle , Leberau , French Li'epvre {*Grand Gerf ; route 
to the Hohkonigsburg, see R. 38), Heilig-Kreuz (or Ste. G roix-aux-Mines), and 
finally Markirch , or Mariakirch , French Ste. Marie-aux- Mines ( Hotel du 
Commerce; Grand Gerf), the capital of the valley, with 8000 inhab., and 
considerable wool and cotton factories. The once productive silver mines 
have long been exhausted. The boundary between the French and Ger- 
man languages formerly passed exactly through the middle of the town, 
the r. bank of the Liepvrette being German, the 1. French, but it is now less 
strongly defined. A good and picturesque road leads from Markirch across 



218 Route 39. 



COL MAR. From Strassburg 



She Bkidmberg i3952 ft.) to RappoltsweO&r 1 1CM 2 M.). see below. The old 
road, diverging to the 1. from the new. l 2 31. from Markirch . effects a 
considerable saving. 

Stations Orschiveiler ( halfway up the Mil is the ruined castle of 
Kintzheim ) . St. Hipp c lute [commanded by the ruins of the lofty 
Hohen-Konigsburg . p. '214"). 

Rappoltsweiler (locally termed 'Rappschwier'). French Bibeau- 
ville {Lamm, moderate), a manufacturing town with 7000 inhab.. 
3 M. from the station, lies at the entrance of a short, hut beautiful 
valley, bounded by productive vineyards. On the precipitous 
rocks high above it are the ruins of the castles of Hohen-Bappolt- 
stein . and lower down the Xiederburg or St. L'lrich , and the Girs- 
berg or -I)er Stein . The first is remarkable for its lofty tower, 
the second for its artistic architecture ("transition style . 1435), the 
third for its bold situation. The castle of St. Tlrich . which has 
recently been surrounded with grounds and commands a romantic 
view, merits a visit. The Count of Rappoltstein was a great patron 
of all the musicians and minstrels of the Upper Rhine . and under 
his auspices they celebrated a joyous festival, termed the 'Pfeifer- 
tag". on 8th Sept. annually. The town contains an old Chateau of 
the Dukes of Zweihrucken. which was occupied by Max Joseph down 
to 1782 ("colonel in the French army in 1 777. afterwards king of 
Bararia. d. 1825), and for the last 50 years has been a girls" school: 
a Church with ancient monuments . and a pleasant park termed the 
Blauerl. Spener. the eminent theologian was born here in 1635. 

Stations Bemiiveier. Ostheim. 

Colmar (*Deux Clefs. R-2. B. 1. A. 3 4 fr. ; Drei Konige ; 
Europdischer Hof . at the station. Cafe Tar on . in the Rapp- 
Platz ; Schmutz* Brewery . Juclengasse") , once a free town of the 
Empire . was so powerful in 1474 that its inhabitants refused ad- 
mittance to Charles the Bold, who by a treaty with Archduke Sig- 
mund of Austria had become master of Alsace. It is now the capital 
('23.000 inhab.") of Upper Alsace and the seat of the court of appeal 
for Alsace and German Lorraine. Ffeffel. the writer of fables (d. 
1807). Marshal Bapp fd. 18*21"). and Admiral Bruat (d. 1855) were 
natives of Colmar. 

The Rue Bruat leads direct from the station to the pleasant 
grounds in the Champ de Mars (*Cafe) . in which a ^Fountain Mo- 
nument, a statue in bronze on a lofty stone pedestal, was erected 
to Admiral Bruat in 1857. The large building to the S. is the Pre- 
fecture. An open space adjoining the grounds on the X. is em- 
bellished with a Monument of Marshal Bapp. The street on the 
1. side of these grounds leads in a straight direction to the Theatre. 

Adjacent to the tht-atre is the old Dominican Monastery of 
Unterlinden . which . together with its church dating from the J 3th 
cent, . has been tastefully converted into a *Mu$eum (Sund. and 
Thursd. gratis, at other times fee 75 c). 

At the entrance : *eork models of buildings in Alsace and a number 



to B&le. 



TURKHEIM. 



39. Route. 219 



of modern pictures. In the choir : valuable ^collection of early German 
pictures , among which are the principal works of Martin Schon , or 
Schongauer, a native of Swabia, who spent most of his life at Colmar, and 
was equally distinguished as a painter and an engraver (d. 1488) : Annun- 
ciation, St. Antony and Madonna adoring the Child, and a portrait of him- 
self; the Descent from the Cross and the Entombment in the cycle of 
scenes from the Passion are attributed to Schon himself, the rest to his 
pupils. Then a Crucified Christ by Griinewald, a large altar-piece. Several 
works of Duress school. The site of the altar is occupied by coloured 
wood-carvings of Christ and the Apostles, brought from the monastery of 
Issenheim. The recently restored Gothic ^Cloisters adjoining the church 
on the N. contain a Monument to Schongauer , erected in 1860. The Mu- 
seum also contains an interesting collection of Engravings and Woodcuts, 
comprising plates by Schon, Diirer, (fee. — A Natural History Collection 
(chiefly ornithological) , a Collection of Busts , and a considerable Library 
are also connected with the Museum. 

A small Platz to the E. of the Museum is adorned with a monu- 
ment to Pfeffel (see above). 

In the centre of the town rises the Church of St. Martin, built 
about 1360, of which the S. tower alone is partially completed. 
The sacristy , adjoining the choir on the r. , contains a large 'Ma- 
donna in an arbour of roses' by M. Schon. 

Colmar also possesses a number of handsome secular buildings 
of the 15th and 16th centuries ; thus , opposite St. Martin's , to- 
wards the S., a house with a rich Renaissance bow-window of 1575; 
Pfisters House, in the Augustiner-Str., not far from the latter, with 
tasteful wood architecture ; then the Old Town Hall in the Lange 
Strasse, of the 15th cent., etc. 

Omnibus to Breisach and Freiburg, see p. 245. 

Near Sigolsheim (with a fine Romanesque church of the 12th cent.), 
at the entrance to the Weissthal (p. 215) , to the N.W. of Colmar, is situ- 
ated the so-called '-Red Field'' , where the degenerate sons of Louis the 
Pious took their father prisoner in 833, after they had seduced his army 
from its allegiance to him. In consequence of this event the spot is 
sometimes termed the 'Liigenfeld 1 (i. e. field of lies). 

To the W. of Colmar opens the fertile *Miinsterthal, watered by the 
Fecht , one of the most beautiful side valleys of the Vosges. Most of the 
inhabitants are Protestants of the German tongue. The cheese prepared 
on the neighbouring hills ('Miinster cheese 1 , resembling the highly esteem- 
ed Camembert) is an important article of commerce here. 

The Rail ic ay from Colmar to Milnster hr. ; fares 2 fr. 10, 
1 fr. 60, 1 fr. 15 c.) skirts the Logelbach, a canal conducted from the Fecht 
at Tiirkheim, on which numerous manufactories are situated, and ascends 
by stat. Logelbach to Tiirkheim Hotel Meyer), an old town still almost 
entirely surrounded by walls , with three gates. One of the best wines of 
Alsace is yielded by the neighbouring vineyards. 

A good road leads from Tiirkheim in long windings , which the pe- 
destrian may avoid (by the 3rd path, l^M. from Tiirkheim, ascend to the 
r. after regaining the road, follow it for 3| 4 M., and again diverge to the 
r. at a finger-post; by this route the village is reached in 1 hr. from Tiirk- 
heim), through beautiful pine wood, to (5 M.) *Notre Dame des Trois Epis, 
German Unsere Frau zu den drei Aehren (*Hdtel des Trois Epis, D. 3, R. 
1 — 3, pension excl. R. 28 fr. per week •, baths of various kinds ; omnibus 
to stat. Tiirkheim and back 3 fr. ; Hdtel des Trois Rois , unpretending), a 
small village and resort of pilgrims, on the hill to the W. of Tiirkheim. 
The lofty and picturesque situation (941 ft.) render this spot a favourite 
summer resort. The *view embraces the lower Miinsterthal towards the 
S., the E. slopes of the Vosges, the plain of the Rhine as far as the Black 



220 Route 39. 



EUFFACH. 



From Strassburg 



Forest, and the distant Alps to the S. If the latter are very distinct, rain 
may generally be expected. A more extensive view, especially towards 
the N., is obtained from the ^Galz (2401ft.). a height to the X.E.. which 
may be ascended in 1 2 hr. The small church of 'Our Lady of the three 
Ears of Corn" contains numerous votive tablets. Amine rschwihr in the 
Weissthal . situated not far from Kaisersberg (p. 214) . lies 3 3 4 M. to the 
X.E. of Trois Epis. Travellers ascending thence to Trois Epis follow 
the paths leading to the 1. in the wood. From Trois Epis to the Schlucht 
(p. 215) 5 hrs.. first through wood, then across pastures, with guide. 

From Turkheim. or from the next stat. "Walbach , the traveller may 
visit the ruin of Plixburg (termed Nixburg by the natives) . which lies on 
the hill to the 1. A footpath, at first easy, but afterwards very steep, 
lead* thence to the ruin of Hohlandsberg (2073 ft.), an extensive castle, 
garrisoned during the Thirty Years" War. and afterwards destroyed by the 
French, commanding an extensive view. Next stations Weier im Thai, 
Gunsbach (with weaving factories). The train then crosses the Fecht to 

Miinster (^Storch , E. 2 . D. 2 3 fe fr.). a manufacturing town with 4700 
inhab. . situated at the base of the Monclisberg , at the union of the Klein- 
thai with the Grossthal. the latter of which is watered by the Fecht. The 
place owes its origin to a Benedictine Abbey founded here by King Child- 
eric about 660. the buildings of which, however, have entirely disappeared 
with the exception of a single tower. In the middle ages ILunster was a 
free town of the German Empire. Numerous modern buildings . among 
which the handsome new Eomanesque church is conspicuous . testify to 
the prosperity of the town. From Hiinster to 3Ietzeral 'd 3 ^ Iff. , to the 
Schlucht 11 M. (see p. 216) : the broad road is followed . but. the longest 
curve (to Sulzeren) may be cut off by means of a stony footpath diverging 
to the 1. at the back "of the new Romanesque church of Stossirier . and 
effecting a saving of l 1 2 M. 

Beyond Colniar several cotton factories are seen to the r. on 
the Logelbach . on the opposite bank of which rises the castle of 
Hohlandsberg (see above). Above stat. Egisheim stands the castle 
of Hoh-Egisheim . or Dreien-Egislteim . with its three towers , the 
Dagsburg. Wahlenhurg. and Wekmurid. known as the 'Dreien-Exen. 
the birthplace of Pope Leo X. . who was a Count of Egisheim and 
Dagsburg. The route to the 4 hr.) castle is by the village of 
Hussern . from which a rough footpath ascends through wood. The 
descent may be made to the >. by the Augustine Abbey of Mar- 
bach . founded in 1094. of which a tower, part of the choir of the 
church, and a few Romanesque columns of the cloisters are still ex- 
tant. Next stat. Herlisheim : then 

Ruffach (Bar j. the Bubeacum of the Romans, erected around 
the castle of Isenburg . one of the oldest in Alsace . and frequently 
occupied by the Aleroviugian-Franconian kings. The Church of St. 
Arbogast. a cruciform vaulted ba^lica with an octagonal tower over 
the centre of the cross, was erected at the close of the i'2th cent., 
partly in the transition, and partly in the Gothic style. 

Sulzmatt. a small bath in a pretty side-valley, lies 5 M. to the W. of 
Euffach. Diligence twice daily in 3 ' 4 hr. The water resembles that of 
Selters. 

Stat. Bollweiler is the junction for Gebweiler. 

Railway to Gebweil e r in 26 min. (fares 90, 65, 50 c). Stat, Sulz, 
or Obersulz, with 4000 inhab.. and silk factories: church in the transition 
stvle with loftv tower. To the 1. near Gebweiler are several modern 
houses in the Gothic stvle. Gebweiler {* En gel, at the station), the capital 
of a district, with 12.000 inhab., situated at the entrance to the Lauchthal, is 



to Mid. 



MULHAUSEN. 



3.9. Route. 221 



an important manufacturing place, the products of which are cotton goods, 
cloth, sugar, and machinery. The * Parish Church, a fine example of the 
transition style of the 12th cent. , possesses double aisles , a transept, and 
two towers of unequal height. Gothic choir, and fme^Romanesque facade 
with vestibule. 

To Murbach and the G ebic eiler Belch en. The road from the 
station leads straight to a Renaissance church of last century ; here ascend 
the main street to the r. (the Parish Church above mentioned stands in 
an open space , in the middle of the town). The road through the pretty 
Lauchthal is now ascended , passing the foot of the ruin of Hugstein , to 
the (I 1 (4 M. from the parish church) entrance of the small town of Bit hi. 
The side-valley of the Rothbach is now entered to the 1. , and the broad 
road followed to the (l 1 ^ M.) picturesquely situated Romanesque *Abbey 
Church of Murbach, surrounded by a few houses. The Benedictine abbey, 
founded by Duke Eberhard of Swabia in 726 , became one of the most 
powerful on the Upper Rhine, was presided over by an abbot of princely 
rank , and possessed extensive domains in which three towns (including 
Gebweiler) and thirty villages were situated. The church , of which the 
nave has disappeared, dates from the 12th cent. The house to the 1., 
about 50 paces beyond the archway across the road , with ground-floor 
borne by Romanesque columns, is an inn, a boy from which may be engaged 
as a guide to the summit of the' Gebweiler Belchen (2 fr.). Comp. p. 222. 

Stations Wittelsheim , Lutterbach (junction for Wesserling, 
p. 222). Near Dornach the Thur , which forms the boundary 
between Alsace and the Sundgau , is crossed ; then , near , Miil- 
hausen, the Rhine-Rhone- Canal. 

Miilhausen ( *H6tel de la Paix , at the station; *H6tel Roman; 
Rother Lowe; Hotel Wagner), in the Sundgau, once a free city of 
the German Empire, and from 1515 to 1798 connected with the 
Swiss Confederation, is now the most important manufacturing town 
on the Upper Rhine (52,000 inhab.), and is advantageously situated 
on the Rhine-Rhone-Canal. All traces of antiquity have been re- 
moved to make way for numerous manufactories (of cotton goods, 
chemicals, paper, iron-wares, machinery, etc.). The only mediaeval 
structure of importance is the Rathhaus , erected in 1551 , restored 
in 1846 , and adorned with pleasing frescoes. The 'Klapperstein' 
preserved here was anciently hung round the necks of gossiping 
female scandal-mongers. Adjoining the Rathhaus is an old house 
with a picturesque jutting tower. The new quarter of the town, 
at the entrance from the station , possesses many handsome build- 
ings , some of them flanked with arcades , and boasts of a scientific 
and industrial museum. A suburb consisting of model houses for 
the working classes outside the Bale Gate merits a visit. They were 
built by the 'Societe' Mulhousienne des Cites Ouvrieres', a society 
founded by the mayor Dollfuss in 1853 , and are sold to artizans at 
cost price, payable by instalments. The colony is provided with bath 
and washing-houses, an infant-school, etc. 

From Mill hau sen to Bel fort railway in Uj 2 — 2 hrs. (fares 2 fr. 
50, 4 fr. 10 c. , 3 fr.). Stations Zillisheim, Illfurth, Altkirch, Dammerkirch 
(Fr. Dannemarie), Alt-Miin.<terol (Fr. Montreux-Vieux, the German frontier- 
station), Chevremont (Ger. Geisenberg , the French frontier-station); then 
Belfort {Hotel de VAncienne Poste , R. 3 fr.) , a town and fortress on the 
Savoureuse, built by Vauban under Louis XIV. The works consist of the 
town fortifications, commanded by the citadel (le Chateau), and of a 



222 Route 39. 



THANN. 



number of advanced forts , the most important of which are the lofty 
Haute and Basse Perche. The memorable siege of Belfort by the Germans 
lasted from 3rd Nov. . 1870 . to 16th Feb. . 1871. The capitulation took 
place by order of the French government, but not until the Perches had 
been taken by storm on 8th Feb. By the peace of 1871 Belfort was re- 
stored to France . but is still temporarily occupied by German troops. — 
At Belfort the line divides: W. to Dijon and Paris. S. to Besancon and 
Lyons. The first stations beyond Belfort on the latter line are Hericourt 
and Montbehard. where several engagements took place on loth — 18th Jan. 
1871 between the 14th German army-corps under General v. Werder and 
the French army of the East under Bourbaki. 

The M ii I h a u s e n a n d We s serl i n g Bail v: a y (l 1 \ hr. ; fares 3 fr. 
85, 2 fr. 85. 2 fr. 10 c.) connects the main line with the important manu- 
facturing places in the St. Amarinthal. the industrious valley of the Thur. 
Stations Domach , Lutterbach fp. 221: where carriages are changed), both 
on the main line : then Sennheim (Fr. Cerno.a) . where the valley of the 
Thur is reached, and a branch-line diverges to Gebenheim and Sentheim fin 
40 min. ; fares 1 fr. 55. 1 fr. 20. 85 c). 

Thann (Krone; Sonne), on the Thur. the chief town of the district, 
possesses thriving cotton, silk, and other factories. The ^Church of St. 
Theobald (1455). sometimes erroneously attributed to Erwin of Steinbach. 
with its bold and elegant open tower. 266 ft. in height (completed in 
1516) , is a gem of Gothic architecture. The interior is adorned with 
sculpturing, several statues, and fine stained glas* windows which escaped 
the storms of the first French Revolution. The church is seen to the 
best advantage from the Engelburg , a cattle commanding the town and 
the entrance to the valley, destroyed by Turenne in 1674. The overthrown 
tower somewhat resembles a huge cask. Rangener. one of the best wines 
of the country, is produced near Thann. 

Beyond Thann the valley of the Thur contracts. Stations Bitschweiler. 
Wetter (ascent of the Gebweiler Belchen. see below), St. Amarin (/*Lion 
d 1 Or: carr. to Wildenstein cheaper here than at Wesserling) , all small 
manufacturing places. Then "Wesserling, see p. 217. 

The Gebweiler Belchen is best ascended from Weiler. The road 
is followed to (3 M.) Goldbach (refreshments at the maire's , where a boy 
should be engaged as a guide, 2 — 2^2 fr.) : thence to a chalet (ppor and 
dear) in 1 hr. . and in 1 hr. more to the summit. The Gebweiler, or 
Sulzer Belchen, French Ballon de Soultz (4677 ft.)- the highest of the 
Vosges Mts. . affords an extensive panorama . embracing the Black Forest, 
the Jura, and the Alps. A small lake lies ^ hr. below the summit. De- 
scent to blurbach. comp. p. 221. 

Beyond Miilhausen are stations Rixheim . Habsheim . Siereniz, 
Bartenlieim . and St. Louis. To the 1. of the last lies Hiiningen, 
formerly a fortress, constructed by Vauban under Louis XIT. , and 
taken and dismantled by the Austrians in LSI 5. Lhe line now 
enters the Swiss dominions, and soon reaches Bale (see p. 246). 

40. From Strassburg to Metz or Saarbriicken. 

Bail way to Metz in 5 1 8* 2 hrs. (fares 16 fr. 25, 9 fr. 45, 5 fr. 
45 c.)5 to Saarbrucien in 3i (2 — 6 hrs. (fares 13 fr. 40, 8 fr. 5, 4 fr. 80 c). 

At stat. Vendenheim (p. 211) the line turns to the N.E., and at 
stat. Hordt crosses the Zorn. The country is flat. In the distance 
to the r. rise the Black Forest Mts. Stat. Bischweiler. a new manu- 
facturing place with a colony of workmen's houses. Hops are largely 
cultivated here. Stat. Marientkal, ^ith a nunnery, dissolved in 
1789. 



SAARGEMUND. 40. Route. 223 



Stat. Hagenau (Post; Wilder Mann), with 11,000 inhab. (2000 
Prot., 3000 Jews), was once a free town of the German Empire and 
a fortress , the works of which are partially preserved. The walls 
were erected by Emp. Frederick I. in 1164. Part of the conspicuous 
church of St. George dates from the 13th cent. 

About 4^2 M. to the E., in the direction of the Rhine, lies Sesenheim, 
or Sessenheim, to which reminiscences of Goethe's early life attach. The 
parsonage has since been altered. 

The line now diverges to the N.W. from that to Weissenburg, 
and traverses part of the forest of Hagenau. Stat. Merzweiler, a busy 
little place with important iron-works. Stat. Gundershofen; then 
Reichshofen (Bellevue, at the station ; excursion to the battle-field, 
see p. 224) , situated on the road from Worth to Bitsch , by which 
the remnant of Macmahon's army effected their retreat on the even- 
ing of 6th Aug., 1870. The line enters the mountains, and passes 
through several cuttings. 

Niederbronn [Goldne Kette, D. 2^ fr-)> with 3300 inhab. , in 
the pretty valley of the Falkensteiner Bach , possesses a mineral 
bath, well fitted up, and much frequented by Parisians and Alsatians 
previously to the war of 1870 — 71. Pleasant walks in the public 
grounds. The Wasenberg , which rises abruptly to the W. of the 
town , is crowned with the ruins of the Wasenburg , erected in the 
14th cent. , commanding a fine view , and easily ascended in 1 hr. 
Other excursions may be made to the Jagerthal, the Barenthal, the 
ruin Falkenstein , etc. The Wasgenstein and Fleckenstein , see 
p. 236. 

Stations Philippsburg, Banstein. Numerous cuttings and several 
woods are traversed. 

Bitsch (Hotel de Metz), a small town and fortress with 2700 in- 
habitants, situated on the N. slopes of the Vosges, and commanded 
by Fort Bitsch , the fortifications of which , partially hewn in the 
rock, are deemed almost impregnable. In the Franco-Prussian war 
of 1870 — 71 it was enclosed by the Germans from the middle of 
August, 1870, till 7th March, 1871, and only capitulated after the 
preliminary articles of the peace had been signed. A regular siege 
was not attempted , as a disproportionate sacrifice of life was ap- 
prehended. 

Stations Lemberg (with crystal, fayence, and tobacco-pipe manu- 
factories), Rohrbach, Wilblingen. 

Saargemiind, French Sarreguemines (Hotel de Paris) , a small 
town at the confluence of the Blies and Saar , the latter of which 
here forms the boundary between German Lorraine and the Rhenish 
Province of Prussia, possesses extensive manufactories of pJush, 
velvet, fayence, and earthen-ware, and is the principal depot of the 
papier-mache' boxes (chiefly snuff-boxes) made in the environs, 
100,000 dozen of which are exported annually. From Saargemund 
to Saarburg by Saarwerden, see p. 213. 

At Saargemund the line divides : that to the N. runs by Han- 



224 Route 41. WEI S SE N BURG . From Strassburg 



weiler (station for the small bath of Rilchingeii) and Klein-Blitters- 
dorf to Saarbrucken (p. 117); that to the W. by Farschweiler and 
Benningen to Metz (see p. 117). 

41. From Strassburg to Mayence. 

Comp. Maps, pp. 230^ 226. 

Railway in 5»| 4 ~8 hrs..- fares to Weissenburg 5 fr. 30, 3 fr. 20, 2 fr. 
Go c. ; from Weissenburg to Mayence 6 fl. 27 , 3 fl. 51, 2 fl. 35 kr. 

From Strassburg to Hctgenau, see above. The line now traverses 
the extensive forest of Hagenau. Stat. Walburg , a village with a 
very ancient church. 

Sulz unter dem Walde (Goldner Apfel; Rossle , both unpre- 
tending; carr. to Reichshofen and back 15 — 18 fr.) is the best 
starting-point for a visit to the battle-field of 6th Aug. 1870. 

Leaving the station, the traveller follows the road as far as the middle 
of the village , and then turns to the I. Beyond the village the road to 
(12^2 M.) Reichshofen leads to the 1. to Kutzenhausen and Merckweiler. On 
the r. , a little farther, lies Preuschdovf ', whence the 5th Prussian corps 
marched on the morning of 6th Aug. At the point where the road begins 
to descend into the valley of the Saner , a few paces beyond a finger-post 
(4 ! | 2 M. from Sulz) , which indicates the road to Tiefenbach to the 1. , and 
Goersdorf to the r. , an admirable view of the entire battle-field is dis- 
closed (the Crown-Prince was stationed on the fields to the r.) : in the 
valley opposite the spectator lies Worth, with its ancient castle - tower, 
which with Froschweiler and Elsasshausen to the 1. , also situated on 
the hill , formed the centre of the French position. By noon the Ger- 
mans had possessed themselves of Worth , but the height of Frosch- 
weiler held out against them until the 11th corps advanced from Gun- 
Hett behind the woods and stormed Elsasshausen, and the Bavarians mar- 
ched up from Langensulzbach , the red roofs of which peep through the 
woods on the r. From Worth (following the road to the r. in the vil- 
lage) to Froschweiler is a walk of 20 min. The first houses of the latter 
still show bullet-marks and traces of cannonading. The church was de 
stroyed, with the exception of the outer walls. Adjacent is the chateau 
of Count Turckheim, where Macmahon spent the night previous to the 
battle. Reichshofen (p. 223) is 2 l \\ M. from Froschweiler. If no convenient 
train be found here, the traveller is recommended to proceed to the plea- 
sant baths of Niederbronn (p. 223), which lie 1»| 4 M. to the N.W. 

Beyond Hoffen and Hunsbach , the Geisberg soon comes in view 
to the 1. (see below). 

Weissenburg (*Engel; Krone; Schwan) , a very ancient town 
with 7000 inhab., mentioned in history as early as the Merovingian 
kings , was the seat of an independent Abbey , founded by Dago- 
bert II. , down to 1534. The * Abbey Church of St. Peter and St. 
Paul is a noble example of the early Gothic style (13th cent.) with 
a tower above the centre of the transept. It is adjoined on the 
N. side by handsome Gothic cloisters (the entrance to which from 
the church is closed). In the interior are fine stained glass windows, 
some of which were destroyed by a projectile on 4th Aug. 1870. 
The town was fortified by the French in 1746. 

On 4th Aug., 1870, part of the German army under the Crown Prince 
of Prussia gained a decisive victory over the French under Douay. The 
town and the Geisberg, 2 ML to the S., were occupied by the French, but 



to Mayence. 



LANDAU. dL Route. 225 



were attacked by Prussians from the E. and Bavarians from the N. , and 
both taken after a severe struggle. In order to form an idea of the nature 
of the ground, the traveller should follow the Lauteiburg road, turn to 
the r. about 1 M. from the station, cross the railway, and proceed by a 
footpath to the chateau of Geisberg, now occupied by peasants. The front 
of the building still bears marks of the bullets and other projectiles with 
which it was showered. Douay fell at the top of the hill, on the way to 
which numerous graves of the fallen are passed. The traveller may now 
return by the Hagenau road on the W. side, a round of 2 hrs. in all. 

Passengers by the ordinary trains change carriages at Weissen- 
burg. The line then crosses the Lauter , the boundary between 
Alsace and the Palatinate. Stations Sehaidt, Winden (branch-line 
to Carlsruhe , see p. 193; to Bergzabern , seep. 236), Rohrbach ; 
then, 1 M. to the W. of the station, 

Landau (*Pfalzer Hof ; *Schwan , or Post) , a town with 7000 
inhab. (7>2 Prot.) and a garrison of 3000 soldiers, which has been a 
fortified place from a very early period. During the Thirty Years' War 
it was besieged and taken seven times , in 1680 it was captured by 
Louis XIV. , in 1686 fortified by Vauban in the form of a regular 
octagon, between 1702 and 1713 changed hands frequently, and by 
the Peace of Rastatt it belonged to France from 1714 to 1815. In 
1867 the fortifications were levelled as being no longer serviceable. 

Diligence from the station to Annweiler (p. 235) twice daily. 

About 6 M. to the N.W. of Landau (diligence once daily, 24 kr.), at 
the base of the Teufelsberg (2574 ft.), which commands a fine view of the 
Vosges Mts., is the loftily situated Gleisweiler (1066 ft.), a village shelter- 
ed from the N. and W. winds , with an extensive Hydropathic Establish- 
ment , where the grape, whey, and 'cowhouse-air 1 cures may likewise be 
undergone (also an hotel ; pension inch medical attendance , 14 — 28 fl. 
weekly). Pleasant excursion thence to Scharfeneck , a ruin 4 M. to the 
S.W. 

The train crosses the Queich , the ancient frontier between 
Alsace and the Palatinate, and the boundary between the Vosges 
and the Haardt Mts. Stations Knoringen, Edesheim. 

Edenkoben (*Schaf; Pfalzer Hof), a pleasant town , is much 
frequented at the season of the grape-cure, and possesses a sulphur 
spring ; in the background the royal villa of Ludwigshdhe {p. 234). 
On an eminence at the foot of the Kalmit (2236 ft.) are the ruins 
of the Kropsburg, now occupied by poor families. Omnibus once 
daily to Gleisweiler (see above). On a hill to the 1. of stat. Mai- 
hammer rises the Maxburg (p. 233). 

Neustadt (p. 231), the junction of the Saarbriicken line , is 
much resorted to for the grape-cure. 

The railway here turns to the E. and enters the great plain of 
the Rhine, with its extensive vineyards, tobacco, and corn fields. 
Stations Hassloch , Bohl, Schifferstadt (junction for Speyer and Ger- 
mersheim, pp. 184, 188), Mutter stadt. 

Ludwigshafen (Deutsches Haus ; Hotel Wolf, near the station ; 
*Rail. Restaurant ; good beer at Pschorr's), formerly the tete-de- 
pont of the old fortress of Mannheim, and the scene of many a bloody 
contest during the revolution, was founded in 1843 and is rapidly 

Baedeker's Rhine. 5th Edit. {q 



226 Route 41. 



WORMS. 



From Strassburg 



becoming an important commercial place. The Quay, one of the 
best on the Rhine, is flanked with long rows of warehouses and 
magazines , and connected by rails with the main line. The two 
new churches, in the Gothic and Romanesque style respectively, are 
worthy of notice. Railway-Bridge across the Rhine, see p. 184; 
passengers to Mannheim, Heidelberg, etc. change carriages here. 

Stat Oggersheim , with the handsome Loretto Church, where 
Schiller spent some time in 1782 while engaged with his tragedy 
'Kabale und Liebe'. Then the thriving little town of Frankenthal 
(Hotel Kaufmann; Hotel Otto), with 5600 inhab., which owes its 
prosperity to Calvinists who were banished from the Netherlands by 
the Spaniards in 1554, and on account of religious differences emi- 
grated from Frankfort to this place in 1562. Cotton, linen, andiron 
are the staple commodities. The late Romanesque Abbey Church 
was founded in 1119 and consecrated in 1224. The town is 
connected by a canal (constructed in 1777) with the Rhine, 3 M. 
distant. — Omnibus to Diirkheim (p. 233) in 2 1 / 2 nrs - 

Worms (* Alter Kaiser, near the cathedral ; *H6tel Hartmann ; 
Bellevue, opposite Luther s Monument; Rheinischer Hof, on the 
river, 2/4 M. from the town; ^Railway Restaurant), one of the most 
ancient towns in Germany, lies in the rich plain of the Wonnegau, 
3/4 M. from the Rhine. The Burgundian conquerors of the Rhine- 
land (431), the Franconian kings, and afterwards Charlemagne and 
his successors, frequently resided at Worms. The war against the 
Saxons was planned here in 772 , and here the great contest con- 
cerning the investiture of the bishops with ring and staff was 
adjusted by the Concordat between the Emp. Henry V. and Pope 
Calixtus II. As early as 1255 Worms , which was a free city of the 
Empire, belonged to the Confederation of Rhenish towns, and in 
the time of Frederick Barbarossa contained 70,000 inhab. ; at the 
beginning of the Thirty Years' War the number had dwindled to 
40,000, and is now 15,000 only ( 2 / 3 Prot.). The suburbs were 
levelled in 1632 by the Swedish Colonel Haubold, and in 1689 the 
town was treated with savage cruelty by Me'lac and the young Due 
de Cre'qui. On 31st May the town was set on tire, after having been 
pillaged, and, with the exception of the cathedral and synagogue, 
soon became one smouldering heap of ruins. The town retained 
its independence down to the Peace of Luneville in 1801, and after 
the short-lived French supremacy was annexed to Hesscn-Darmstadt 
in 1815. 

The Cathedral, with its four elegant towers, two domes, and 
double choir, is a remarkably fine Romanesque structure. It w T as 
consecrated in 1110 (W. Choir of St. Lawrence in 1181) on the site 
of a much earlier church. The towers are adorned with quaint figures 
of animals and masks as gurgoyles. The N. W. tower was erected in 
1472, to replace one which had fallen in. The pointed *S. Portal, 
richly adorned with sculpturing, dates from 1300. The pediment 



to Mayence. 



WORMS. 



41. Route. 227 



contains the figure of a woman with a mural crown, mounted on an 
animal, whose four heads (angel, lion, ox, eagle) are symbols of the 
four Evangelists, the whole being emblematical of the victorious 
Church. 

The *Interior (119 yds. long , 29 yds. wide , across transepts 39 yds.) 
has been recently restored. The E. choir was decorated with marble and 
gilding in the 18th cent., hut the rest of the church is remarkable for its 
dignified simplicity and effective proportions. The Sculptures representing 
Daniel in the lions' 1 den , in the first S. chapel on the r. , and the Tomb- 
stone of the three Franconian Princesses of the 14th cent. , now in the N. 
aisle, are interesting. 

The Baptistery , on the 1. side of the S. Portal , contains some large 
^Sculptures, admirably executed, and in excellent preservation. They were 
presented by noble families of Worms and placed in the old cloisters of 
1484 , but on the demolition of the latter in 1813 were removed to their 
present position ^ they represent the Annunciation, Descent from the Cross, 
Resurrection, Nativity, and Genealogy of Christ. Here, too , is the Tomb- 
stone of the knight Eberhard von Heppenheim (d. 1559) , a well-executed 
kneeling figure in armour. The font is from the ancient chapel of St. 
John , which was taken down in 1807. The paintings of the two patron 
saints of the church , St. Peter und St. Paul , with other saints on the 
back , alone escaped the French conflagration. The chapel is shown by 
the sacristan (fee 18 kr.) who lives in the large Platz to the S. at the 
back of the Barracks. 

It may interest those versed in German lore to know that the 
space in front of the cathedral was the scene of the quarrel between 
Brunhilde and Chriemhilde, recorded in the 14th Adventure of the 
Nibelungenlied. 

On the N. side of the cathedral is the site of the Bischofshof, or 
episcopal palace, destroyed by the French in 1689, and again in 
1794. On its massive red-sandstone substructure the handsome 
HeiVsche Haus has been erected in the rich Renaissance style. In 
the Bischofshof was held the diet of April 1521, in which Luther 
defended his doctrines in presence of Charles V., six electors, and 
a numerous assembly, concluding with the words : ''Here I stand, I 
cannot act otherwise, God help me! Amen.' This event is sometimes 
erroneously said to have taken place in the old Rathhaus, on the 
site of which the Church of the Trinity in the market-place was 
erected in 1726. 

The Luther-Platz, which is reached by the Carmeliter-Strasse 
direct from the railway-station in 3 min. , is embellished with 
■■■ Luther's Monument, designed by Rietschel, partially modelled by 
him, and completed after his death by Kietz and Dondorf of Dresden 
(erected in 1868). 

This imposing memorial of the great Reformer of Germany, the execu-, 
tion of which occupied nine years and cost about 17,000 1., merits 
examination. A massive platform of light coloured polished granite bears 
a pedestal in bronze , adorned with reliefs from Luther's life , on which 
stands Luther's *Statue in bronze , 11 ft. in height, a commanding figure. 
In his left hand he holds a Bible, to which he points with his right ; 
while his face, on which faith is admirably pourtrayed, is turned upwards. 
At his feet , in a sitting posture , are four precursors of the Reformation ; 
in front, r. *Huss, 1. ^Savonarola; at the hack, r. Wickliffe , 1. Petrus 
Waldus. On the side-pedestals in front are^Philip the Generous of Hessen 
on the r. , and Frederick the Wise of Saxony on the 1. ; at the back 

15* 



228 Route 41. 



WORMS. 



Melanchthon on the r., and Keuchlin on the 1. (each 9 ft. in height). Be- 
tween these, on lower pedestals, are allegorical figures of the towns ol 
(r.) ^Magdeburg, (1.) Augsburg, and (at the back) Spires , and between 
the latter the arms of the 24 towns of Germany which first embraced 
the reformed faith. 

The Synagogue of the 11th cent. . near the Mainzer Thor, is an 
object of interest to antiquarians, though externally insignificant. 
The Jewish community of Worms, is one of the oldest in Germany. 
The very ancient Jewish Burial- Ground lies on the W. side of the 
town, 3 min. from the cathedral. 

HeiVs Garden contains interesting hot-houses with beautiful 
palms and rare plants (adm. 11 — 5 o'clock). 

In the Mainzer suburb, which was destroyed by the Swedes and 
French, the *Liebfrauenkirche (Church of our Lady), l / 2 M. from 
the cathedral, alone escaped. (It is reached by the first road diverg- 
ing from the Carmeliter-Str. to the 1.). The church replaces an 
older edifice , and was consecrated in 1468 ; the keystone of the 
vaulted roof bears the arms of the different corporations of Worms 
who caused it to be built. The only object of interest in the interior 
is a curious old painted sculpture of the Entombment, with life-size 
ligures, to the r. of the principal entrance. The Portal is enriched 
with statues of the wise and foolish virgms, the death of the Virgin, 
and her coronation by the Saviour. Service on Saturdays and those 
days dedicated to the Virgin. 

The wine called Liebfrauenmilch (see Introd.) is yielded by vineyards 
near the church. Those near the old watch-tower of Luginsland, and at 
the Gatterloch on the S. side of the town, yield a wine of equally good 
quality. 

The Rhine anciently flowed round a meadow known as the 
Rosengarten, on the r. bank of the river , opposite Worms (now the 
terminus of the Darmstadt railway, p. 169). To this spot attach 
many ancient traditions , preserved in the poetry of Siegfried and 
the Nibelungen, to appreciate which, however, a thorough acquain- 
tance with the old German language is requisite. 

Hernsheim , with the white chateau of the Dalbergs , lies 3 M. to the 
N.W. of Worms. In the church repose many members of this illustrious 
family, among others the prince-primate Carl von Dalberg, once Grand- 
Duke' of Frankfort (d. 1817), and Emmerich Joseph von Dalberg (d. 1833), 
ambassador of Baden in Paris , created Duke by Xapoleon for his services 
in promoting the emperor's alliance with Marie Louise. 

From Worms to Bin gen by a branch railway in 2 l |3 hrs. (fares 
2 u. 54, 1 ft. 48, 1 11. 12 kr.). The country traversed is uninteresting. 
Alzey on the Sulzbach , is the principal station. From stat. Monsheim a 
branch line runs to Griinstadt (p. 233). Bingen, see p. 94. 

The line now passes the Cemetery of Worms , where a conspi- 
cuous monument crow r ned with a helmet was erected in 1848 to 
veterans of Napoleon. Stations Osthofen, Mettenheim, Alsheim. 

Guntersblum (Krone), a small town which formerly belonged 
to the Count of Leiningen, possesses an ancient church, a handsome 
Ratlihaus. and on the N. side of the town the Schloss and grounds 
of the Count. On the plain between Guntersblum and Oppenheim 
the Salic monarch Conrad II. was elected emperor in 1024. 



OPPENHEIM s 



41. Route. 229 



Near Oppenheim (Ritter), the ancient Bonconica, the line tra- 
verses vine-clad hills. The red church of St. Catherine on the hill 
is a striking object (see below); near it the gloomy-looking castle 
of Landskron. This ancient town , which rapidly rose to impor- 
tance at an early period, especially under the Franco nian emperor 
Henry IV., became a member of the Rhenish Confederation in the 
13th cent. In 1689 it was almost entirely burned down by the 
French. The W. choir (1439) of *St. Catherine's Church, a remar- 
kably fine Gothic structure, restored in 1838 — 43, was also seriously 
damaged, but the E. portion, dating from the 13th cent., escaped. 
On the stained glass and tombstones of the 15th cent, the ar- 
morial bearings of the Dalbergs , the Sickingens , and other noble 
families frequently recur. Charnel-house on the N. side of the 
churchyard. The sexton (fee 12 kr.) lives on the 1. side of the 
steps of the S. entrance. 

The Landskron, connected with the town by a wall, is the 
remnant of a once famous Imperial stronghold, constructed by the 
Emp. Lothaire, and restored by Emp. Ruprecht, who died here in 
1410. Subterranean passages connect it with the town. The top 
affords a good view of the plain of the Rhine; N. E. the Taunus, 
S. E. the Melibocus and Odenwald. 

The Schwedensaule , opposite Oppenheim, marks the spot where 
Gustavus Adolphus effected the passage of the Rhine in 1631. 

Nierstein (* Anker) is remarkable for its carefully cultivated 
vineyards, contrasting picturesquely with the red soil. The chapel 
of the Herding family is embellished with frescoes by Gotzenberger. 
On the hill to the 1. rises an ancient watch-tower. 

On a chain of low, vine-clad hills to the 1. lie Nackenheirn, Bo- 
denheim , and Laubenheim , and near Mayence Weissenau , which 
forms a part of the fortifications of that town. The train skirts 
the Neue Anlage and reaches the station of Mayence at the upper 
end of the town (see p. 101). 

42. From Mannheim to Saarbriicken. 

Railway to Neustadt in ±i/ 4 , Kaiserslautern in 2 1 | 2 , Homburg in 3 1 J 2 , 
Saarbriicken in 4^2 hrs. ; fares 6 fl. 25, 3 fl. 58, 2 fl. 33 kr. 

The train crosses the Rhine by the new Railway Bridge (p. 184), 
which affords a pleasing glimpse of the river , to Ludwigshafen 
(p. 225) , beyond which it runs for an hour through fields of corn 
and tobacco. Stations Mutter stadt , Schifferstadt (junction for 
Speyer , p. 184, which may be reached in 14 min.), Bbhl (view of 
the long Donnersberg to the r., p. 114), and Hassloch (a thriving 
village with 5000 inhab.). As the Haardt Mts. arc approached, 
the Maxburg (p. 233) , comes in view on an eminence to the I. ; 
on the r. the ruin of Winzingen (p. 231), and, farther on, Kbnigs- 
bach, Ruppertsberg , Musbach , and on the hill-side the long vil- 
lage of Haardt (p. 231), all famous for their wine. 



230 Route 42. KAISER SLAUTERN, 



Neustadt (p. 231) is the junction of the line to Diirkheim and 
to Landau. The Saarbriicken line now enters the mountain-district 
of the Westrich. For an hour the train winds through the wooded 
and picturesque ravine of the Speyerbach, and penetrates the varie- 
gated sandstone rocks by 12 tunnels. Beyond Neustadt, on a hill 
to the r., stand the red ruins of the Wolfsburg ; to the 1. in the 
valley is a castellated cloth-factory. Stat. St. Lambrecht-Greven- 
hausen (* Klein), two villages founded by French emigrants, with 
extensive cloth-factories. On a neighbouring height the ruins of 
Neidenfels. At stat. Frankenstein (* Krone ; *Hirsch), the valley 
is remarkably picturesque ; above the tunnel is a line old ruined 
castle ; to the r. is the rock termed the Teufelsleiter ('devil's ladder). 
In a secluded valley to the r. lies the ruin of Diemerstein, with 
private pleasure-grounds. (From Frankenstein to Diirkheim , see 
p. 233.) Stat. Hochspeyer, the highest on the line , lies 100 ft. 
above Neustadt. The last tunnel is 1496 yds. long. 

Kaiser slautern (*Schwan; Zum Carlsberg), one of the chief 
towns in the Palatinate (pop. 15,984), situated in the hilly tract 
of the Westrich, was once a residence of Emp. Frederick Barbarossa, 
who erected a magnificent palace here in 1153. The building was 
destroyed during the Spanish War of Succession, and the site is 
now occupied by a house of correction. His memory is still revered 
here, as he presented the town with a wood, worth 30,000 ft. annu- 
ally. The Prot. Church with its three towers owes its foundation to 
the same monarch. The churchyard contains a monument to sol- 
diers of Napoleon who were natives of the place. (Railway to Miin- 
ster am Stein, see p. 114.) 

Between Kaiserslautern and Homburg the line (with the Kaiser- 
strasse, p. 114) skirts the Landstuhler Bruch, an extensive moor 
at the base of wooded hills. 

Landstuhl (Engel; Krone) was once a seat of the Sickingen 
family, whose castle, with its huge walls, 25 ft. thick, lies in ruins 
above the town. Franz von Sickingen was besieged here by the 
Electors of the Palatinate and Treves in 1523, and lost his life by 
the falling of a beam. His remains were interred in a vault under 
the church, but the monument erected to his memory was destroyed 
by the French. Another has recently been erected, and the paths 
about the castle have been repaired. Keys at the forester's. The 
Rom. Catholic Orphan Asylum was erected in 1853. 

From Landstuhl to Cits el branch-railway in l 3 ^ hr. (fares 1 fl. 
18, 48, 33 kr.). The line intersects the Landstuhler Bruch (see above). Stat. 
Ramstein. At stat. Glan-Milnchweiler the attractive valley of the Glan is 
entered, and followed as far as stat. Altenglan. The line then turns in a sharp 
angle towards the W., and enters the Cuseler Thai. Cusel (Post), a busy 
little town with cloth and other factories, was burned down by the French 
in 1794 , on suspicion of being concerned in a forgery of c assignats\ In 
the neighbourhood are considerable basalt quarries, the stone from which 
is largely exported. 

Stations Hauptstuhl, Bruchmuhlbach ; then Homburg (Pfalz). 



Ed . "Wagner I) arms t ajt . 71 . CoWenz, Coin 



SanuneJHoch, 



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* Jssmansha 
Witidah 'esheim ■ 



1^ 



"Madai/akrt^ 
o\ Heideshrbjk 



ft^Z$g&gt^~^^ \_Jifdersdnvd, 




■Jlri2> 




> brr,uif VhHaa * e,t V 



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—5 — £ — ^ ErujUsch miles 



NEUSTADT. 



43. Route, 231 



the handsome Rom. Cath. Church of which is conspicuous. The 
castle of Carlsberg, on a hill 1 M. to the E., was built by Duke 
Charles II. of the Zweibriicken Palatinate in 1780, and destroyed 
by the French in 1793. 

Branch Line (23 min. 5 fares 30, 18, 12 kr.) to Zweibriicken (*Pfalzer 
Hof; Zweibrucker Hof), formerly the residence of the Dukes of the Zwei- 
brucken-Palatinate , and known to the literary world as the place where 
the Editiones Bipontinae of classical authors were published. When 
Charles X. (Gustavus) of the Zweibriicken family ascended the Swedish 
throne, the Duchy became subject to Sweden, which it continued to be 
till the death of Charles XII. in 1719. Stanislaus Lesczynski , the exiled 
king of Poland , resided here for some time , and owned the neighbouring 
grounds of Tschiflik, on the road to Pirmasenz, now quite neglected. 

Beyond Bexbach the line enters a productive coal district in the 
Prussian dominions. 

Neunkirchen, and thence to Saarbriicken, see p. 116. 



43. The Bavarian-Rhenish Palatinate. 

a. Haardt Mts. 

The Haardt, a vine-clad range of hills extending from Griinstadt and 
Diirkheim to Neustadt'and Landau,' is hardly a field for a pedestrian tour. 
The finest points may be reached with the aid of the railway. The moun- 
tains to the S. of the Queich (p. 235), on the other hand, which belong to 
the ancient Wasgau and form part of the 1ST. Vosges, afford a charming 
walk of three days: 1st. From Landau to the Madenburg , Trifels , Ann- 
iceiler, and Willgartswiesen, 7^2 hrs.; 2nd. Schloss Dahn , Schbnau T 1 ^ hrs. 5 
3rd. Wegelburg, Lauterthal, Weissenburg, or Niederbronn, b l \-z hrs. 

The best wines of the Palatinate are produced at Konigsbach , Rup- 
pertsberg, Deidesheim , Forst, Wachenheim, Diirkheim, Ungstein, and 
Callstadt ; the red wine of the last-named place resembles Burgundy. In 
good years the Palatinate yields 20 million gals, of wine. Pedestrians 
should observe that the vineyard-footpaths are closed in September and 
October. 

Neustadt (*Lowe, at the station , R. from 48, B. 30 kr., D. 1 fl. • 
Schiff; * Krone, or Post ; Pfalzer Hof and Weisses Lamm, second 
class, both at the station), with 7400 inhab. , is the largest town in 
the Haardt district. The handsome Gothic Church of the 14th cent, 
contains tombstones of the Counts Palatine who founded Neustadt. 
The gurgoyles, terminating in heads of apes , pigs, geese, etc., are 
termed by the inhabitants Hollenkinder ('children of hell'). The 
Rom. Cath. Ludwigskirche is an elegant modern Gothic structure. 
The Town Hall, built in 1743, was originally a Jesuit college. Fine 
survey of the environs from the Schiesshaus, 74M. from the station. 
Near Haardt, a village iy. 2 M. to the N. of Neustadt, rises Burg 
Winzingen (the L Haardter Schldsschert) , an ivy-clad ruin with 
pleasure-grounds, not accessible to the public. The *Wolf'sche 
Anlagen, near the church, are open to the public, and should be 
visited for the sake of the view (finest by evening light) which they 
command of the Rhine Valley, Speyer, Mannheim , and in clear 
weather the red-sandstone arches of the castle-terrace at Heidelberg. 

Neustadt, being the junction of the line from Mannheim to 



232 BmtedS, 



LIMBURG. 



The Bav, Rhen. 



Neunkirchen with that from Diirkheim to Landau , is conveniently 
situated for making excursions. 

Railway to Frankenstein, see p. 230. From Frankenstein a road 
(diligence twice daily) leads through the picturesque Isenachthal 
to (9 ML) the Hartenburg (*Hirsch) , a castle founded by counts of 
Leiningen about 1200, completed in 1510. and dismantled in 1794 
by the French. Its extensive vaults and vast ruined towers resemble 
those of the castle of Heidelberg. A large grass-plot (/Turnierplatz* ). 
to the E. of the castle . with handsome lime-trees, affords a fine 
view of the valley. 

A road leads from the Hartenburg on the r. bank of the Isenach 
to (IV2 ML) Hansen, whence the traveller may ascend in 20 min. 
to the considerable ruins of the Benedictine monastery of *Limburg 
(refreshments), once the castle of the Salic Count Conrad the Elder, 
who was elected king of Germany in 1024 as Conrad II. His eldest 
son Conrad having lost his life while hunting , the king resolved to 
convert his castle into a religious house, a pious act which he believed 
would conduce to the repose of his son's soul. He accordingly laid the 
foundation-stone of the church in presence of his Queen Gisela . on 
12th July. 1030. at 4 a.m.. as the chronicles record . and at a later 
hour on the same day the foundation-stone of the cathedral of 
vSpeyer. Twelve years later the edifice was placed in the hands of 
the Benedictines. The abbots chose the Counts of Leiningen for 
their protectors : but in consequence of a quarrel Count Emich took 
possession of the abbey and destroyed it in 1504. It was partially 
restored in 1515 — 54, finally suppressed in 1574, and afterward? 
abandoned to decay. The ruins of this imposing basilica, which 
throughout exhibits the style peculiar to the 11th cent., belong 
to the town of Diirkheim and are surrounded by pleasure-grounds. 
The walls of the church, the S.W. tower dating from the early part 
of the 16th cent. (137 steps to the top; fine view), part of the 
cloisters of the same period , and the crypt are in tolerable preser- 
vation. Charming views, especially to the E., of the vast garden 
of the Palatinate and the distant Odenwald ; on the N. W. the view 
is bounded by the Hartenburg, mentioned above. 

To the X.E. of the Limburg rises the Kastanienberg , on the wooded 
slopes of which a part of the ITeidenmtouer is visible to the r. of the 
Teufelsstein. a mass of rock. 12 ft. in height, perhaps once an altar. The 
Heidenniaiier ('heathen's wall'), constructed of loose stones heaped together, 
6 — 12 ft. in height and 60 — 95 ft. in width, encloses a space on the summit 
of the Kastanienherg about i x \o M. in circumference. Cooper derived the 
materials for his novel 'The Heidenmauer" from this locality. The wall, 
like that on the Altkonig (p. 162), is doubtless of ancient Germanic origin. 
The Peterskopf (1630 ft.) , 3; 4 h r . N.W. of the Teufelsstein , commands a 
fine, extensive view. — Two old bowers of defence to the W. of Diirkheim 
bear the whimsical names l Murr mir nkht vief (do not murmur much) 
and L .Kehr dieh an nichts! (care for nothing). 

From the Limburg either a carriage-road by Rohrkh , or a steej> 
footpath on the E. slope of the hill , lead the traveller in f / 2 lir - to 
O ret hen and 



Palatinate. 



DURKHEIM. 



13. Route. 233 



Diirkheim (* Hotel Reitz , on the E, side of the town, R. 1 fl., 
I). 1 fl. : *Vier Jahreszeiten ; Hotel Hdussling) , a town with 7000 
inhab., almost entirely rebuilt after the destruction of the castle of 
the counts of Leiningen by the Elector Palatine Frederick in 1471 . 
and again after the French devastation of 1689. It was subsequently 
the prosperous residence of the Princes of Leiningen-Hartenburg, 
till their palace , on the site of which the Rathhaus now stands, 
was burned down by the French in 1794. The grape-cure and the 
beautiful situation of Diirkheim , as well as the neighbouring 
salt-baths of Philippshalle . attract numerous visitors. The town is 
surrounded by pleasant grounds. 

To the N.W. of Diirkheim lies the ancient little town of G-ollheim 
(Hirsch), 12 M. distant by the footpath by Eiseriberg and Leiningen , or 15 
M. by Griinstadt (Jacobslust; Karpfen; Hotel Ilgen), to which (T 1 ^ M.) an 
omnibus runs daily (railway from Worms via Monsheim see p. 228). At 
the S.W. end of Gollheim stands a modern chapel , in the wall of which 
is immured the ancient Konigslireuz , a crucifix much injured by the French 
republicans in 1794. Beneath it is the inscription: L Anno milleno trecentis 
bis minus annis Julio mense Rex Adolphus cadit ense, to which is added a 
notice that the monument was renewed by Count Adolph of Nassau in 1611. 

Beneath an ancient elm near this chapel the Emp. Adolph of Nassau 
(p. 185) was killed in battle by the sword of his antagonist Albert of 
Austria , on 2nd July , 1298. The contest , which had begun at the 
Easenbuhl , l 1 ^ M. to the S., was thus terminated at this spot. The cross 
and the wall into which it is built were shortly afterwards erected by a 
member of the imperial family. 

From Diirkheim to N eustadt railway in 40 min. (fares 
42, 27, 18 kr.) ; views to the r. — On an eminence to the r. of stat. 
"Wachenheim (Krone) rise the ruins of the Wachtenburg , or Geiers- 
burg , once the property of the Salic Counts , subsequently that of 
the Counts Palatine, destroyed in 1689. The handsome villas and 
well-kept grounds near the village belong to wealthy wine-merchants. 
Forst, an important wine -growing village, lies on the 1. of the 
line. Stat. Deidesheim (*Bairischer Hof) , the wine of which also 
enjoys a high reputation , is another seat of vineyard-proprietors, 
who constitute the sole aristocracy of this district. Next stations 
Mussbach and Neustadt (p. 231). 

The conspicuous *Maxburg, a modern castle of the King of 
Bavaria, in a somewhat dilapidated condition, rises on a hill, 1000 ft. 
in height , 3y 4 M. to the N.W. of Neustadt. The traveller coming 
from the Neustadt station turns to the 1. before reaching the town, 
and passes the (r.) Schiesshaus (p. 231); at (IV4 M.) Oberhambach 
a steep paved causeway ascends to the r. ; 1 / 2 hr. , a linger-post, 
and in 25 min. more the castle is reached (custodian 12 kr.). The 
ruins on which the new edifice was erected were of vast extent, 
and the Roman walls still visible afford a presumption that one of the 
Roman castra stativa was stationed here to command Upper Ger- 
many. The old castle, which is said to have been built by the Emp. 
Henry II. , fell into the hands of the bishops of Speycr as early as 
1100. It was stormed and demolished by insurgent peasantry in 
1525, but afterwards rebuilt at their expense. In 1552 it was 



234 Route 43. 



MADENBURG. 



The Bar. Rhen. 



burned down by the Margrave Albert of Brandenburg, and for its final 
destruction it was indebted to Louis XIV. in 1688. According to 
tradition the Emp. Henry IV. undertook his pikTimase to Canossa 
barefooted from this castle. 

The traveller may descend from the Maxburg by a steep foot- 
path in l / 2 nr - to Dkdesf eld . walk to (l 1 /* 1-3 stat - Maikammer. 
and return to Neustadt by railway. If time permit . a visit may be 
paid to the Villa Lndwigshohe. Route thither from the Maxburg by 
[1* 2 M.) the village of Maikammet and ("3 M.J Edenkoben fp. 225). 
along the slope of the vine-clad and wooded hills . to the thriving 
village of [iy 2 M.) Ehodt . on a hill near which rises the ruin of 
Rietburg, or Rippburg. At the base of this hill stands the villa, 
erected by Lewis I. of Bavaria . commanding a noble prospect. 
Interior destitute of ornament. Curious kitr-hen. — Rhodt is 3 M. 
from stat. Edenkoben or stat. Edesheim fp. 225). 

About 2 hrs. to the W. rises the Steigerlopf (2047 ft), on which is 
the Schdmel, an important military point , successfully defended against 
the French in 1794 by the Prussian General v. Pfau . who was killed in 
the battle. 

b. The Vosges of the Palatinate. 

Landau ('p. 225) is the best starting-point for the tour through 
the 8. Palatinate mentioned at p. 231. Railway from Neustadt to 
Landau in 38 min. ('fares 51. 30. 21 kr.). Pleasant views by mor- 
ning light of the Haardt Mts. to the r. 

From the 'French Gate' at Landau the Annweiler road is followed 
as far as the burial-ground, where the road to the 1. must be taken. 
At i 2 M.J WaUmersheim the paved road to the r.. before the bridge 
is reached, is selected: at a M.) cross-way a straight direction 
must be pursued. Fine view of the mountains here : to the r. on a 
precipitous height the scanty ruins of Neukastel. lower down the 
important looking Neukasteler Hcf : in the background the Miinz 
near Annweiler: to the 1. the Madenburg. Then (3 M.) Eschbach 
[Engel . poor") . whence a guide to the Madenburg and Trifels is 
necessary ("36 kr.). 

The ^Madenburg, 1 o hr. to the S.W. of Esehbach. the grandest 
ruin in the Rhenish Palatine . formerly belonged to the counts of 
Leiningen . afterwards to the archbishopric of Speyer . and was 
burned down by the French general Montclar in 1680. It commands 
a noble prospect . one of the finest in the Palatinate . comprising 
the plain of the Rhine from Strassburg to the Melibocus . and the 
h lights of the Odenwald and Black Forest in the distance. The 
spire of Strassburg. and the towers of Carlsruhe. Speyer. Mannheim, 
and Worms , are all visible. A peculiar attraction is the view of 
the adjacent Vosges . with their numerous volcanic and forest-clad 
peaks , from many of which protrude bald and grotesquely formed 
massed of variegated sandstone. 

A walk of 4 1 o M. to the N. W. along the moTintaM-slopes 3 



Palatinate. 



ANNWEILER. 



43. Route. 235 



through fragrant pine and beech woods, next brings the pedestrian 
to the ruined castle of *Trifels (1516 ft.), where Richard Cceur de 
Lion is said to have been confined for more than a year by the 
Emp. Henry VI., until his liberation was effected by the faithful 
Blondel. Trifels was not unfrequently occupied by the German 
emperors. Its walls protected the unhappy Henry IV. , when ex- 
communicated by Pope Gregory VII. in 1076, deserted by his nobles, 
and pursued by the unnatural hostility of his son. It also served as 
a prison for Adalbert , Archbishop of Mayence , who was confined 
here by Henry V., but released by the citizens of Mayence. After 
the Thirty Years' War the castle fell to decay, and nothing is now 
left but the tower (32 ft.) and fragments of the walls. The view 
resembles that from the Madenburg, but is less extensive. The 
ascent of the Trifels by a path winding through the woods from 
Annweiler, which lies at its base on the N. side, occupies 1 hr., the 
descent y 2 hr. On a hill of equal height rises the ancient square 
tower of the Miinz (70 ft.). 

Annweiler {Trifels; Rother Ochse; Post, a tavern only), a small 
town with a handsome modern Town Hall, is uninteresting to the 
traveller. The tower on the *Rehberg, iy 2 nr - distant, is a beautiful 
point of view. The path to it diverges from the high road to the 
I. opposite the 'Trifels' inn. View of the plain less extensive than 
from the Madenburg, that of the mountains more imposing. 

Diligence from Landau twice daily to Willgartswiesen (see 
below), Kaltebach, and Dahn , or Pirmasenz. The pedestrian, 
however, will find it preferable to walk through the ^Annweiler 
Thai, the narrow dale of the Queich , enclosed by wooded slopes, 
and mountains, from which fantastic masses of variegated sandstone 
project. 

The road leads through (iy 2 M.) Rinnthal and (iy 2 nr Sam- 
stall to (3 M.) Willgartswiesen (*Lamm), with a handsome modern 
church. At a finger-post, y 2 M. beyond the village, the road is 
quitted, and the direction of the brook followed. At (l ! / 2 M.) 
Hauenslein the brook is crossed, and a narrow, sandy track followed 
to the 1. After y 2 hr. a fir- wood is traversed; rapid ascent of l / 2 hr. 
to a ruined chapel; 5 min., descend to the r. ; y 4 hr. Erfweiler. 
About iy 2 M. to the S. W. (at a bend in the road the footpath 
enters the wood to the 1.) rise the ruins of *Schloss Dahn, or the 
'"Erfweiler Schloss\ scarcely distinguishable from the rock on which 
it stands. The steps and passages are partly hewn in the solid 
rock. Good survey of the surrounding mountains from the summit. 

Dahn (Pfalz), a small town, visible from the castle, is 20 min. 
distant. The post-station Kaltebach (see above) is 3 3 / 4 M. to the 
N. of Dahn . 

The route is now by the high road, following the course of the 
Lauter, to (5 J / 4 M.) Bruchweiler ; on the heights to the r. and 1. 
the rock-formations are very imposing and grotesque. One mile 



236 Route 43 



WEGELBURG 



beyond Bruchweiler the Lauterthal is quitted by a road to the r. to 
fl M. ) Rumbach. traversing the picturesque valley of that name, 
and (3 ? 4 M.J Schonau (*Lovr€. rustic"), a village on the Sauer, with 
iron-works. Then (guide advisable ! by the village of Htrschthal and 
the castle of FUckenstein. in '2 hrs. (or by the direct route in 1 hr.) 
tc ' Wegelburg, a castle lestr&y ed by the French, the central 
point of the ancient Wasgau. and the finest point in the excursion. 
The direct path to it enters the wood 10 ruin, beyond Schonau. 
passes a (40 min.) finger-post, and in 1 4 hr. reaches the summit. 
The ruins are insignificant, but the *view is magnificent and ex- 
tensive, probably the finest in the Palatinate : N. the rocky district 



of Dahn. the Rehberg. Trifels. Madenburg, Haardt Mts., and Don- 
nersberg: S. and W. Alsace and the mountains of Lorraine. A 
mountain indicator at the top. 

From the finger-post mentioned above, a broad path leads N. E. 
to Xothvceiler (GortlerJ in 40 min.. then over the hills to (lVo hr.) 
Bodenthal. For the first half of the way a guide necessary (24 kr.) ; 
the second half, always descending . is easily found. Here the 
beautiful wooded valley of the Lauter is regained and not again 
quitted. At (3 M.) St. Germanshof the frontier of Alsace is crossed, 
i : II. . stat. Weissenburg i'p. 204] is reached. 

Another route is from Xothweiler by (3 M.) Xiederschletten- 
bach to (*2 M.) Erlenbach . on a height near which rises Schloss 

. - • 4 ' y. Bergzabern Rdssle 

an old town connected bv a branch-line (in 25 nAn.'\ with Winden 
i p. '235). 

Those who intend proceeding towards the S. after visiting the Wegel- 
burg are recommended to ascend to it by the direct path, then to proceed 
by the Fleckenstein (see above) to Hirschthal. and descend the valle 
of the Sauer to the A M.) Weissenburg and Bitsch road, which is reach- 
ed at the foot of the loftily situated ruin of the Froensburg. The high 
road is then followed t :- (2 1 4 M. » Lembach, where it is quitted to the r. 
by the road skirting the Sauer to (2 M.) MaUsiall. (2 31.) Goertdarf (which 
may also be reached direct from Lembach bv keeping to the 1. bank of the 
Sauer) and (2 ML) Worth. Battle-field of ISfO, see 2*24. 

About 71 to the W. of the Froensburg, on the Weissenburg and 
Bitsch road, lies Obersteinbach , whence the ancient castle of Wasgenslein, 
or Wasenstein, mentioned in the old German Walthariuslied. loftily situated 
among the woods, may be visited. The footpath to it diverges to the r. 
from "the road about 8 min. on this side Obersteinbach. Thence to Meder- 
bronn (p. 223). about 2 1 | 2 hrs. 

44, From Baden to Wildbad, 

Comp. Map, p. 191. 

23 1 .4 M. From Gernsbach to Wildbad one-horse carr. 6, two-horse 10 fl. 
a drive of 5 hrs. — A good walker will reach Wildbad in about the 
same time: to Gernsbach 6. Lolienau 3 3 4. Herrenalb 4 l U, Wildbad 9 l 4 M. 

From Baden to Gernsbach . see p. 199. The road enters the 
dominions of Wurtember? 2 l /.-> M. farther . and then readier 
(33/ 4 M.) 

Loffenau 1 Adler : Stem. Lowe), a long village, with a modern 



WILDBAB, 44. Uoute. 237 



Gothic church of red sandstone. In the middle of the village a path 
to the r. leads to the Teufelsmilhle (2955 ft.), the most conspicuous 
mountain to the r., the slopes of which are covered with Mocks of 
red sandstone. The summit (l^hr.) commands a beautiful and ex- 
tensive view. Seven hollows in the sandstone on the S. slope , pro- 
bably eroded by water, are termed the l DeviVs Chambers' . 

From Loffenau the road ascends to the (2 M.) Kdppele. Fine 
* retrospect of the Murgthal : to the r. the Ebcrsteinburg on a rocky 
eminence; then the 'Felsen' near the Alte Schloss; opposite the 
spectator the Stauffen ; to the 1. Schloss Eberstein ; below in the 
valley, Loffenau ; farther distant Gernsbach and the Mercuriusberg. 

Then a descent of 2^4 M. through woods and meadows toHerren- 
alb (*Ochs ; Sonne] Stern), where a favourite hydropathic establish- 
ment is situated. The once celebrated Benedictine abbey, founded 
by a Count of Eberstein in 1148, was destroyed by the Swedes in 
1642. The church contains the tomb of the Margrave Bernhard of 
Baden (d. 1431), with a recumbent figure. In the churchyard are 
remains of cloisters of the 12th cent. , with round arches supported 
by small columns, containing tombs of the abbots. The portal to- 
wards the road is of the 15th cent. In the distance, farther down 
the Albthal , the suppressed Abbey of Frauenalb is seen on a rocky 
eminence. Pleasant walk of 20 min. to the Falkenstein, a huge 
granite rock rising from the valley. 

The road now ascends to the r. by the 'Ochs' inn to (3 M.) a 
cross-road, where the road ascending straight through the wood must 
be followed. The (l l ; 2 M.) Dobel (2195 ft.), the culminating point 
of the route, with the village of that name (Sonne Inn), commands 
a view of Strassburg cathedral, part of the Rhine valley, and the 
Vosges in the background. Then a descent of 2 1 /^ M. over stony, shade- 
less slopes , to the Eyach-Muhl in the valley of the Eyach , a stream 
navigable for rafts. The carriage -road beyond this leads to the r. 
round the mountain , while the footpath ascends the hill imme- 
diately opposite the mill, uniting with the road halfway up. After 
an ascent of 2 M. through wood, the traveller reaches the summit 
of the hill which separates the parallel valleys of the Eyach and the 
Enz, and then descends to the (2 1 / 2 M.) 

Wildbad(1411 ft.) (* Bad Hotel; * Hotel Klumpp, *Bellevue] 
charges: R. U/ 2 ft. , D. 1 fl. 24 kr. ; * Frei , D. 1 fl. ; *Kmmh 
in the pine - clad ravine of the Enz , consisting of two long 
narrow streets, in a Platz at the end of which rises the 
handsome new Curhaus, with dining, reading, and ball rooms, and 
baths. (Music 7 — 8 a. m. and 6 — 7 p. m.) The thermal springs 
(94 — 107° Fahr.), which are beneficial in cases of gout and rheu- 
matism, rise immediately from the sand in the baths (three public 
baths for each sex, capable of containing 22 persons each, 30 kr. ; 
30 private baths, 48 kr,). Annual number of patients about 5000. 
Pleasant walks and grounds on both sides of the village, on the banks 



23S Route di. 



OFFENBURG. 



of the Enz; on the S. side a? tar as the (i M.) Windhof, a cafe; on 
the N. side to the (1 M.) garden -Zum kiihlen Brunnen', a favourite 
resort. A picturesque longer excursion (6 hrs. there and back) may 
be taken by the small Wildsee . which tradition has peopled with 
water-sprites, to the shooting-lodge of Kaltenhronn ('2847 ft.) (Ta- 
vern), and the Hohlochthurm, a fine point of view. 

The following is a very interesting excursion for a whole day (one- 
horse earr. 5, two-horse S fl.}, and is also recommended to pedestrians. 
Via Oalmbach (see above) to (2'( 4 M.) Reichenbach (Lowe). Thence, leaving 
the main road, by a bye-road to (6 M.) Rothenbach (view of Hohenzollern 
from a height as the village is approached; carriages should be sent on 
from this point to Teinach) , and (2 1 4 ML) Zavelstein (Lamm), with a pic- 
turesque ruined castle. Descend to (l 1 ^ M.) Teinach [BadMtel; Hirsch), 
charmingly situated, with mineral baths and a hydropathic establishment. 
Thence down to the (1 M.) Nagoidthal, and by Kenthetm to (3 M.) Calu\ 
an industrious place: then to (l 1 ^ M.) Hirschau, or Hirsau (Hirsch). with 
a celebrated ruined monastery . and (3 3 4 ML) Liebenzell ( Uhteres and 
Qberes Bad), a bath with warm springs of long established repute, plea- 
santly situated, and commanded by a ruined castle. Thence back to Wild- 
bad by Hirschau and Calmbach. 

F r m Wildbad to Pforzhei m by railway in 1 hr . (fares 
55, 38, 25 kr.). Stations Calmbach, Ho fen, Neuenburg, Birkmfeld, 
and Pforzheim, whence trains run to Muhlacker and Durlach (see 
Baedeker's S. Germany). 

45. From Baden (or Strassburg) to Freiburg 
and Bale. 

Comp. Maps, pp. lf'l, 238. 

Rail w a y in 4 1 4 — 7 1 4 hrs. (express fares 8 fl. 33, 5 fl. 48 kr. ; ordinary 
7 fl. 9. 4 fl. 51, 3 fl. 6 kr.). From Strassburg to Freiburg in 23j 4 — 4*| 2 
hrs. (express fares 5 fl. 42, 4 fl. 7 kr. ; ordinary 5 fl., 3 fl. 36, 2 fl. 32). 
Finest views to the left. 

From Baden to Appenwemr, see p. 200. From Strassburg to 
Appenweier, see p. 201. 

The line runs parallel with the mountains of the Black Forest, 
In the distance to the 1. rises the grand-ducal castle oiStaufenberg. 
founded in the 11th cent. byOtho of Hohenstaufen, Bishop of Strasb- 
ourg, and still in good preservation. 

Offenburg (* Fort una ; * Schwarzer Adler : *Bahnhof Hotel, near 
the station), a small town on the Kinzig . contains a statue of Sir 
Francis Drake, -the introducer of the potato into Europe, 1586? Mod- 
ern Gothic church in red sandstone with open tower. It was for- 
merly an imperial town, and down to the Peace ofPressburg, the seat 
of government of the district of Ortenau . or Mordnau . which anci- 
ently belonged to the Duchy of Alemannia or Swabia , while the 
Ujfgau. in which Baden-Baden lies, was Franconian Rhenish terri- 
tory. The Breisgau adjoins the Ortenau on the S. 

Branch -line from Offenburg to Hausach and Constance, see 
p. 257. 

The train crosses the Kinzig. On a hill to the 1. rises Schloss 
Ortcnherg (p. 257)^ Stations Nieder-Schopfheifn, Friesenheim; then 




! 



EMMENDINGEN. 45. Route. 239 



Dinglingen the junction of a branch-line (7 min.) to Lahr (Post, or 
Sonne; Krone), one of the most prosperous commercial towns in the 
Duchy, in the Schutterthal, iy 2 M. from the main line. To the 1. 
in the distance , the loftily situated tower of Hohengeroldseck (p, 
197). 

Stat. Kippenheim, the birthplace of the rich tailor Stulz (p. 
214), possesses a monument to him. To the r. in the distance rise 
theVosges, among which the Hohen-Kbnigsburg (p. 214) is con- 
spicuous. 

The castle of Mahlberg to the 1. , above the small town of that 
name, was once the seat of the oldBaden government; in the middle 
ages it belonged to the Hohenstaufen. The town was founded by 
Conrad III. in the 12th cent. 

Near stat. Orschweier lies Ettenheim at the entrance to the 
Miinsterthal, with a conspicuous church. A mournful interest at- 
taches to this village as the spot where the Due d'Enghien was 
arrested by order of Napoleon on the night of 14th March , 1804. 
Farther up the valley lies (i l / 2 M.) St. Landolin (*Reinbold), a 
small, pleasantly situated bath. 

Stat. Herbolzheim. Near stat. Kenzingen the line twice crosses 
the Elz. Above Hecklingen are the ruins of Lichtenegg , once a seat 
of the Counts of Tubingen. 

Near stat. Riegel the Dreisam unites with the Elz. The entire 
plain here was formerly a marsh, but is now drained by the Leopolds- 
Canal. The isolated mountain on the r. is the volcanic Kaiser stuhl 
(p. 244), consisting principally of dolerite, the S. and E. slopes of 
which are fertile and thickly peopled. 

The line now traverses the plain between the Kaiserstuhl and 
the Black Forest, and commands a view of the hills round Freiburg. 
The Schauinsland (p. 243), Belchen (p. 271), and Blauen (p. 271), 
which next to the Feldberg (p. 262) are the highest points of the 
Black Forest, are visible in the distance, rising behind the cathedral 
of Freiburg. 

Stat. Emmendingen (Post), in the churchyard of which Goethe's 
sister Cornelia (d. 1777) is interred, possesses a good agricultural 
school. Beyond it, on a hill to the 1., are the extensive, well-pre- 
served ruins of Hochburg, dismantled in 1689 by order of Louis XIV. 

Between Emmendingen and Denzlingen, with its quaint open 
tower, the train crosses the Elz. Beautiful view of the valley of the 
Elz, opening to the N.E. ; at its entrance lies the little town of 
Waldkirch (p. 261), with a pointed white tower and ruined castle, 
at the N.W. base of the finely shaped Hohe-Kandel (4078 ft.). 

Near Freiburg, on the 1., stands the watch-tower of the ruined 
castle of Zdhringen, once the seat of a powerful race, which became 
extinct in 1218 by the death of Count Berthold V. (p. 241). The 
present Grand Duke of Baden is a descendant of the Dukes of Zah- 
ringen. 



240 Route 43. 



FREIBURG. 



Prom Baden 



Freiburg. Hotels. *Zahringer Hof (PL a), opposite the station, 
R. 1 fl., B. 30 kr. ; *H6tel Foshrenbach (PL b), in the S. suburb (spacious 
apartments); *Engel (PI. c); *Deutscher Hof (PL d); *Pfau (PL e), 
near the station, with a garden, pension in winter 2^2 — 3 fl. } ^Wilder 
Mann (PL f), not far from the Schwabenthor ; Hotel Lang, new; charges 
moderate at all these hotels. — *Heil. Geist (PL g) , opposite the west- 
portal of the Minister, R. 48, D. 48 kr. ; *Rhein. Hof (PL i); Rom. Kaiser 
(PL h)^ Freiburger Hof, unpretending. 

Cafes. *Koj>f, adjoining the Engel , with garden. — Beer. Gramm, 
near the Schlossberg; Schaich; Bensel , Eisenbahn-Str. — Confectioners. 
Wol finger, Kaiser-Str. ; Doyen, Salzgasse. 

Reading Room at the Museum (PL 20) : admission through a member. 

Swimming Bath at the foot of the Lorettoberg, 12 kr. 

Cabs. For 1 pers. 12, 2 pers., U 4 hr. 15, 3 pers. 18, 4 pers. 21 kr. : »| 2 hr. 
24, 30, 36, 42 kr. : 3, 4 h*. 36, 42, 48, 54 kr. ; 1 hr. 48, 54, 60, 66 kr. 

Telegraph Office at the railway-station. 

Diligence to the Hollenthal (p. 261) daily. Carriage and pair to the 
Hirschensprung (p. 261) and back in 4^2 hrs., 7 fl. to the Hollensteig and 
back in 6 hrs., 9 fl. : through the Hollenthal to the Titi-See , Schluchsee, 
and down the Albthal to Albbruck (p. 273) 36 fl. — Post-Omnibus through 
the Hollenthal to Neustadt , Donaueschingen, the Schluchsee, the Albthal, 
<fec. , a cheap and not unpleasant conveyance ; fare in the inside about 
3 1 /4 , in the coupe 4 kr. per Engl. M. 

English Church Service in a room at the post-office buildings. 

Principal Attractions. The traveller should follow the Eisenbahn-Str, 
from the station through the town as far as the Schwabenthor, and ascend 
the Schlossberg, a walk of 20 min. On the way back visit the Minister and 
Kaufhaus (exterior only of the latter), traverse the broad Kaiser-Strasse, 
and return to the station by the Friedrichs-Str. 

Freiburg (918 ft.) in the Breisgau , a town with 24,559 inhab. 
(2500 Prot.), situated 12 M. from the Rhine, vies with Baden and 
Heidelberg in the beauty of its environs. The mountains of the 
Black Forest, the picturesque hills in the vicinity , the populous 
and fertile plain , bounded by the vineclad Kaiserstuhl , and the 
lovely valley of the Dreisam , all combine to render the situation 
highly attractive. 

For nearly 300 years Freiburg belonged to the House of Haps- 
burg; it suffered much in the Thirty Years' War; in 1677 it was 
taken by the French, fortified by Vauban , and confirmed to them 
by the Peace of Nymwegen in 1678; by the Peace of Ryswyk in 
1697 it was given back to Austria, but conquered by Villars in 
1713, after an obstinate defence. It was again restored to Austria 
by the Peace of Rastatt in 1714, besieged and taken by the French 
in 1745, and then, after the destruction of the fortifications, once 
more made over to Austria by the Peace of Aix-la-Chapelle in 1748. 
The Breisgau, an hereditary possession of the house of Austria, of 
which Freiburg was the capital, was annexed to Baden by the Peace 
of Pressburg in 1806 , and the town thus restored to the descend- 
ants of the house of Zahringen, by which it was originally founded. 
Many old and wealthy families still reside here. 

Notwithstanding its antiquity Freiburg contains few remarkable 
edifices , except the Cathedral and the Merchants" Hall , a de- 
ficiency for which it is indebted to its almost total destruction by 
the French under Marshal Coigny in 1747. 



to Bale. 



FREIBURG, 



45. Route. 241 



The streets are supplied with streams of pure water from the 
Dreisam, which gives them an agreeable freshness in summer. 

The archiepiscopal jurisdiction extends over the Grand Duchy 
of Baden and the Hohenzollern principalities. The archbishop is 
also primate of the church of the Upper -Rhine, comprising the 
bishoprics of Rothenburg, Freiburg, Mainz, Fulda, and Limburg. 

The University (PI. 23), founded in 1456 by Archduke Albert 
IV., boasts of one of the most learned Rom. Cath. faculties in Ger- 
many (300 students). Most of the lectures are delivered in the uni- 
versity-buildings in the town; those on medical subjects in the new 
Anatomiegeb dude (PI. 1), to the N.W. of the Protestant Church, 
where the Anatomical Museum is also established. 

In front of the university stands a statue of the Franciscan Ber- 
thold Schwarz (PI. 6), the inventor of gunpowder (1340), as the 
reliefs indicate. Opposite is the Franciscan Church, with fine clois- 
ters. The monument of Rotteck the historian (d. 1840) was formerly 
here, but has been removed to the Rotteck-Platz in the Eisenbahn- 
Strasse, where he once resided. 

The ^Cathedral, or Miinster (PI. 14), almost the only perfect Go- 
thic church in Germany , an edifice of red sandstone , darkened by 
age, is deservedly admired for the symmetry of its proportions and 
its tasteful decorations. It was probably begun by Conrad of Zah- 
ringen in 1122; the transept and lower part of the side - towers, 
which are Romanesque, appear to be the most ancient portion. The 
body of the church, W. side, and tower (397 ft.), the finest part of 
the building, date from 1236. The tower, supported by a square 
substructure, is of octagonal form, terminating in a bold pyramid 
of exquisite open-work. Beneath it is the principal Portal, richly 
sculptured; on the r. the seven sleeping virgins, the seven arts, St. 
Margaret , and St. Catharine ; on the 1. the seven watchful virgins 
and figures of saints. In front of the Portal are three columns, sup- 
porting poor statues of the Virgin, St. Alexander, and St. Lambert, 
the patron of the church. The N. side is less richly decorated than the 
S. side. Around the building are numerous statues of saints, pro- 
phets, and allegorical figures in niches. The S. Portal is unfor- 
tunately disfigured with a portico of the 17th cent. 

The '^Interior (114 yds. long, 34 yds. wide, 34 yds. high), with 
its magnificent stained-glass windows of different dates, is most im- 
pressive. The best time to visit it is between 10. 30 a. m. and 7 
p. m., when there is no service (the sacristan admits visitors to the 
choir, fee 18 kr.). The following are the most interesting objects, 
beginning on the r. 

>S'. Aisle. Good stained-glass windows of the 15tli cent. The four 
Evangelists in stained-glass (4th window), after Purer, by ffeliitle i 1822. 
Tomhstone with high-relief of Berthold V. of Ziihringen ,' the last of his 
line (d. 1218). In the Holy Sepulchre Chapel the Saviour on a sarcophagus, 
with a small aperture in the chest, opened on Good Friday to receive a 
portion of the host; beneath it the watchmen of the sepulchre asleep, 
fine old sculptures. The eight, small stained-glass scenes from the Passion, 

Baedeker's Rhine. 5th Edit, 16 



242 Route 45. 



FREIBURG. 



Prom Baden 



designed by Diirer, executed by Helmle in 1826, are beautifully coloured. 
The carved wood-work of the side-altars is old. That on the 1. with the 
adoration of the Magi, executed in 1505, is the finest. 

Choir Chapels. Capitals of the pillars at the entrance enriched 
with quaint figures of sirens , griffins , monks , and women , burlesques in 
medieeval taste. The stained-glass in these chapels is damaged. — Altar- 
pieces: 1st Chapel. * Winged picture, in the centre SS. Augustine, Antony, 
and Rochus, SS. Sebastian and Christopher on the wings, master unknown. 
— 2nd (University) Chapel. ^Nativity, and Adoration of the Magi, by Hol- 
bein the Younger, restored in 1S6G. Next to it the portrait of a priest, in 
Holbein's style , worth inspection. — At the back of the high-altar , a 
^winged picture by Hans Baldung , surnamed Griin (1516) , of^the Cruci- 
fixion, 1. St. Jerome and John the Baptist, r. St. George and St. Lawrence. 
The chapel to the 1. behind the high-altar contains a Byzantine Crucifix 
of the time of the Crusades , with silver gilt figure. — The second chapel 
on the 1. contains an * Adoration of the 15th cent. , in carved wood , with 
Gothic framework. 

Choir. At the entrances on the r. and 1., relief sculptures of dukes 
Berthold III. and IV. , Conrad III. , and Rudolph of Zahringen. On the 
wall a monument of Gen. cle Rodt (d. 1743). — * High- altar -piece by Bald- 
ung (1516), Coronation of the Virgin in the centre , the twelve apostles at 
the sides ; outside, the Annunciation, Visitation , Nativity, and Flight into 
Egypt. Episcopal throne richly carved, 1848. 

N. Aisle. In the chapel of the Mt. of Olives a stone relief of the 
Last Supper (1805) , and four small *stained-glass windows with scenes 
from the Passion, by Helmle, from designs by Diirer. — Statue of Archb. 
Boll (d. 1836), by Friedrich. — Monument 'of Archb. Demeter (d. 1842). 
Near the latter a sarcophagus containing bones of ancient Counts of 
Zahringen. — In the closed Chapel of St. Alexander is preserved the skel- 
eton of the saint, in a richly embroidered robe presented by Pope In- 
nocent X. in 1650. 

On the W. wall are stained-glass rose-windows, those on the L new, 
on the r. old. The Pulpit, executed by Kempf in 1561, is said to be hewn 
out of a single block of stone. 

Tower. Entrance in the church to the r. of the portal; ticket 6 kr., 
fee to custodian 12 kr. , who also shows the clock by Schwilgue (p. 204). 
Ascent recommended for the sake of examining the beautiful architecture; 
distant view similar to that from the Schlossberg (see below). 

The *Kaufhaus, or Merchants' Hall (PI. 13), opposite the S. 
portal of the Minister, was erected in the loth cent. The front rests 
on live pillars, forming a portico, above which is a balcony with two 
projecting turrets, covered with coloured tiles and painted arms in 
relief; on the outer wall, small statues of the emperors of Austria 
with inscriptions. 

The Romanesque * Protestant Church (PI. 16), at the N. end 
of the Kaiser-Strasse , was erected in 1839 with materials from the 
ruined abbey church of Thennenbach. Interior simple and chaste, 
with paintings by Burr. Nearly opposite are Barracks (PI. 12), built 
by the Austrian government in 1776, and farther E. the Kunsthalle 
(PI. 17). 

The ancient Gothic * Fountain in the Kaiser-Strasse, with sta- 
tues of saints, knights, and bishops in niches, merits inspection. 
A second fountain farther S. in the same street, with a statue of 
Berthold III. , the founder of Freiburg (1120) , bears inscriptions 
enumerating the various benefactors of the town. A third fountain 
with the statue of Archduke Albert , the founder of the university 
(1456), has recently been erected in the N. part of the street. 



to Bale. 



FREIBURG. 



45. Route. 243 



Near the St. Martinsthor(V\. D. 4) St. Martin sharing his cloak 
with a beggar is represented on the wall. The inscription on the 
gateway commemorates the brave resistance of the townspeople when 
attacked by the French in 1796. 

Beyond the Schwabenthor (PL F, 4)) a broad path to the 1. leads 
through vineyards to the *Schlossberg (427 ft.) , once defended by 
two castles, which were destroyed by the French in 1744, during 
the Bavarian War of Succession. The ruins with their massive 
walls, vaults, fosses, etc., are converted into pleasure grounds. 
Iron indicator at the top, with numerous names of places which are 
not visible. To the E. lies the green and well-peopled Kirch - 
zarter Thai, watered by the Dreisam ; in the background the en- 
trance to the Hollenthal; nearly due S. the Schauinsland (see be- 
low), to the r. of it the Belchen (p. 271), the second highest peak 
of the Black Forest ; S.W. the Schonberg (2132 ft.), in front of it 
the Chapel of Loretto (see below); W. the blue chain of the Vosges 
and the Rhine. From the plain rises the Kaiserstuhl (see below), 
sloping towards the S. into a rich plain bounded by the spurs 
of the Black Forest Mts. In the foreground Freiburg with its beau- 
tiful cathedral-tower ; to the r. the tower of the Protestant Church. 

From the large 'Rondel' (Canonen-Platz) a path through a gate 
leading to Schaich's Schldsschen, a restaurant, is the shortest way 
back to the town. Another path leads from the Schlossberg N. E. 
to the (IY2 M.) Jdgerhauschen (fine view), from which the tra- 
veller may return to (I 1 fa M.) Freiburg by the suburb of Herdern. 

The *Loretto Chapel (1086 ft.) on the Schlierberg, 1 M. to the 
S. of the town, deserves a visit for the view, which embraces the 
charming Giinthersthal, with an ancient monastery , converted into 
a brewery and spinning factory , not visible from the Schlossberg. 
This height was defended by the Imperial General Mercy against 
the French under Turenne in 1644. The cannon-ball built into the 
wall of the chapel above the door was fired against the troops of 
Louis XV. about a hundred years later. 

Beautiful walks from Freiburg to the Schonberg (2118 ft.) 
(IV2 hr. S.W., through the Giinthersthal); to the *Kybfelsen (2716 
ft.)(l : y 4 hr. S.E.; at the entrance to the wood , before reaching 
the Giinthersthal, the road to the 1. must be taken, see finger- 
post), and back by the Giinthersthal, or through the Kappeler Thai 
to Littenweiler (see below). Also to St. Ottilien (1516 ft.), a chapel 
and inn iy 4 hr. to the N.E. ; then to the Rosskopf (2254 ft.) in 
l 3 / 4 hr. , and thence to the Jdgerhauschen , or the castle of Zah- 
ringen (p. 239). 

Excursion to the Hollenthal, see p. 261. 

The Schau ins Land, or Erzkasten(&2i9 ft.), the nearest of the 
higher mountains of the Black Forest, may be conveniently visited 
as follows: by carr. (one-horse 3 fl.) to the Molz-Bauer in the Kap- 
peler Thai, I1/4 hr. ; walk to the summit in 2 1 / 2 hrs.; descend in 

16 * 



2-44 -Routt 15. 



BREISACH. 



From Baden 



2V 2 hrs. to the Baths of Littenweiler. where dine; return in the 
afternoon to Freiburg (3 M.) on foot or by omnibus. 

The road ascends from Freiburg in the volley of the Dreisam to (3 M.) 
Bad Littenweiler (1063 ft.: unpretending), at the entrance to the Kappeler 
Thai , with powerful chalybeate waters , better adapted for baths than for 
drinking, and whey-cure. Fine view of the mountains towards the E., 
from which rise the towers of the suppressed monastery of St. Peter 
(2369 ft.). 

The road then leads to the S. into the Kappeler Thai to (l 1 ^ M.) 
Kappel , and the (l 1 ^ M.) Molzbauer , where a steeper ascent begins; 40 
min., to the r. by a cottage: 8 min., keep to the r. . following the course 
of the brook: 12 min., the Herder, a group of four cottages (refreshments); 
] 4 hr., a brook, where a steep ascent, partly over loose stones, begins: 
40 min.. a spot where landslips took place in 1849 and 1855. Then ascend 
a little to the 1., passing a delicious spring, to the crest of the mountain 
in 20 min.. and in 10 min. more to the Cross at the top, where a fine 
view is enjoyed (comp. p. 243). About 3 j4 hr. to the S. are the houses 
An der Halde , the highest of which , to the r. . is the Rosste , a clean 
country inn, on the road from Torltnau in the Wiesenthal to Freiburg. 
The Feldberg (p. 262) is 2 l J 2 hrs. to the E., the Belchen the same distance 
to the S.W. 

The Kaiserstuhl, a basaltic mountain region about 42 sq. M. in 
area, and entirely planted with the vine . rises from the plain in 
upwards of forty peaks between the Dreisam and the Rhine, to the 
N.E. of Alt- Brei^ach. A visit may be paid to it from Freiburg 
as follows. By railway to Biegel (p. 239"). and thence by the 
post-omnibus, which runs several times daily, to Endingen (Pfau) 
in 40 min. Ascend in IV4 hr. to the *Chapel of St. Catharine 
f 16*20 ft.}, which commands a superb view of the plain of the Rhine 
as far as Strassburg , of the Vosges,, and the Black Forest. De- 
scend to Scliehlingen . and proceed to Vogtsburg ] where the high 
road traversing the district from E. to W. is reached. Ascend this 
road to the 1. (E.) to the top of the hill, where a ringer-post on the 
r. indicates the w T ay to the Neun Linden (1833 ft.), the highest 
point of the Kaiserstuhl. Descend thence , either towards the S.E. 
to hr.) Bickensohl and ( 3 / 4 hr.") Ihringen , or return to the high 
road and descend by it to (3 M.) Gottenheim (see below). Railway 
from Ihringen. or from Gottenheim, to Freiburg, see below. 

Fro m Fr eiburq to Colmar. Railway to Alt-Breisach in 40 
min. (fares 1 fl. 12. 48, 30 kr.); diligence thence to Neu-Breisach 
and Colmar three times daily in 3 hrs. The line at first runs to the 
N.. traversing the Mooswald . a marshy tract ; it then crosses the 
Dreisam - Canal , and turns to the W. , between the undulating 
and fertile slopes of the Tuni-Berg on the 1. , and the Kaiserstuhl 
on the r. Stations Hiigstetten. Gottenheim. Ihringen. 

Breisach, or Alt-Breisach (744 ft.) (*Deutscher Kaiser, or Post • 
Ochs\ Wilder Mann, near the station) the Roman Mons Brisiaru?. 
an old town, with 4500 inhab.. situated on the extreme S.W. spur 
of the vine-clad Kaiserstuhl, at the foot of a rock rising precipitous- 
ly to a height of 240 ft. above the Rhine, is a picturesque looking 
place. As lately as the 10th cent., the Rhine is said to have flowed 
round the town, which was anciently an important fortress and re- 



to Bale. 



MULLHEIM. 



45. Route, 245 



garded as the key of Germany. After 1331 it belonged to Austria, 
in 1638 it was taken after a long siege by the Swedes under Bern- 
hard von Weimar; after his death garrisoned by the French ; in 1700 
again in possession of Austria, in 1703 taken by Tallard and Vauban, 
and in 1714 restored to the Austrians. In 1740 a change in the 
course of the Rhine proved so detrimental to the fortifications, that 
they were abandoned and partly demolished by the Austrians, and 
then completely destroyed by the French in 1793. There is an old 
saying with regard to Breisach , with illustrates the entire inability 
of the then disunited Germans to repel the attacks of the French : 
Limes eram Gallis, nunc pons et janua fio ; 
Si pergunt, Qallis nullibi limes erit! 

On the highest point in the town rises the * Cathedral of 
St. Stephen, a cruciform edifice. The choir, supported by an open 
substructure, the S. tower, and theW. half of the nave are Gothic, 
dating from the 14th cent. ; the transept andN. tower Romanesque. 
It contains a beautiful rood-loft of the latter part of the 15th cent., 
and a good winged altar-piece in carved wood, executed in 1526 by 
Hans Lievering (?), representing the Coronation of the Virgin. Two 
large pictures in the choir by Diirr, 1851. Fine view from the 
terrace. On the opposite bank of the river are the remains of Fort 
Mortier (see below). — To the S. rises the Eckardsberg , with frag- 
ments of an old fortress. 

At the base of the Kaiserstuhl, on the Rhine, l 1 ^ M. to the N. of Brei- 
sach, lies the ruin of SponecTc (*Inn) , commanding a line view of Alsace, 
the Vosges Mts., itc. 

The Rhine is here crossed by a bridge of boats. 

The Road to Colmar (omnibus see above) passes Fort Mortier, 
which was destroyed during the siege of Neu-Breisach in 1870, and 
Neu- Breisach (Hotel de France), a fortress constructed by Vau- 
ban in 1700, and taken by the Germans on 10th Nov. 1870, after 
a siege of eight days. The town , which consists of one-storeyed 
houses coeval with the fortifications, is singularly dull. Colmar 
(p. 218) is about 10 M. distant. 

From Freiburg to Bale. The train skirts the vine-clad W. 
spurs of the Black Forest. To the r. rise the S. slopes of the Kai- 
serstuhl (p. 244). Stat. St. Georgen; to the 1. the Schdnberg (p. 
243). Beyond stat. Schallstadt , on an eminence to the 1. , at the 
entrance to the Miinsterthal, which is terminated by the Belchen 
(p. 271), rises the Staufenburg (p. 272). Stat. Krotzingen (*Post; 
omnibus to Staufen, p. 272). The small town of Heitersheim 
(Adler; Kreuz), once the seat of the Master of the Maltese Order, 
is 3/ 4 M. from the station. To the E. lies the small Bad Salzburg 
(Grether), prettily situated amidst wood, in a valley iy 2 M. from 
the railway. Stat. Buggingen. 

Miillheim (882 ft.) (*Kittler , at the upper end of the town; 
Schwan ; Krone), a small town, 1 M. in length lying on the bill- 
side, II/2 M. from the station, is noted for the Markgrafler wine 



246 Route ±5, 



BALE. 



produced in the neighbourhood. Omnibus to BadenweiLer fp. 269^) 
in 1 hr. . fare 30 kr. Travellers arriving late are recommended to 
pass the night at Miillheim, as the hotels at Badenweiler are occasio- 
nally full. 

To the W. of Miillheim, on the Rhine. i!fe M. from the station, lies 
Neuenburg (Hirsch), the greater part of which was carried away by an 
inundation many years ago. It was besieged in 1633 — 34 by Bernhardt von 
Weimar, who ended his heroic career in 1639. having probably been poi- 
soned by order of Richelieu, who dreaded the Duke's independent proceed- 
ings in Alsace. 

Beyond Schliengen (* Krone) the line approaches the Rhine, 
here divided by islands into several arms. 

Stations Bellingen. Rheinweiler . Kleirikems. Then three short 
tunnels through the 'Isteiner Klotz\ a lime-tone cliff overhanging 
the water, to stat. Efringen. The construction of the line , which 
winds along the hill-side hish above the river, is an object of inter- 
est between Bellingen and Efringen. At stat. Eimeldingen (878 ft.l 
the train crosses the Kander. beyond which a tine view is disclosed 
of the course of the Rhine. Alsace, and the Jura beyond Bale. Sta- 
tions Haltingen. Leopolds! i'6he. To the r. , on the opposite bank, is 
the old fortress of Hilningen. The station at Klein -Basel is 1 > M. 
from the Rhine - bridge . to which a broad street leads direct, and 
l 1 g M- from the central-station at Bale. 

Bale. Hotels. *Tkois Rois (PI. a), on the Rhine. R. from 2. L. i| 2 , 
B. H| 2 . D: 4. A. I fr. ; *Hotel Ecler. Schweizerhof. both at the Central 
Station. R. from 2. L. and A. l 1 ^. Omnibus 1 fr. : Coldner Falke. a littlf 
farther distant , at the corner of the Elisabethen-Str. — *Wilder Mann 
(PI. c), *Storch (PL b), *Kbone (PL d) , *Kopf (PL e) . all somewhat 
more moderate. Hotel de la Poste. *Schiff, unpretending. — At Klein- 
Basel, on the opposite bank of the Rhine : *Kredz (PL h). with its back 
to the Rhine : ^Bar (PL g). opposite the latter, both unpretending, R. l 1 ^, 
B. 1. A. »| 2 fr. : Hotel Schriedee. at the Baden station. 

Cafes. *Trois Rots, two houses above the hotel of that name: *Caff 
National at Klein-Basel, near the bridge: Cafe de Bale near the theatre. — 
Restaurants. At the "Central and *Baden stations ^ Kibiger. Barfiisser-Platz: 
SefrumacTter, Opposite the Central Station, moderate. Sommer-Casino (PL 18) 
not far from the monument of St. Jacob : concert Wed. 6 — 9 p. m. ThonwCs 
beer-garden, near the Central Station. The hotels and cafe's are also 
restaurants. 

Conveyances. Omnibus, from the station to the town (50 lbs. luggage 
free) x \i fr., from the Baden to the Swiss station 1 fr. — Cabs: b 4 hr. 1 — 
2 pers. 80 c. . 3—4 peirs. 1 fr. 20 c. . by the hour 2—3 fr. . to or from the 
station 1 — 4 pers. i l | 2 fr. • from one station to the other 1 — 2 pers. , 3 
— 4 pers. 2^2 fr. ; each box 30 c. 

Railway-Stations. Baden-Station at Klein-Basel, bo M. (straight) from 
the Rhine bridge. — The stations of the Alsace and Swiss lines are united 
at the Central Station at Bale, on the S. side of the town, Hf 4 M. from 
the Rhine-bridge. The waiting-rooms for the Alsace line are to the r., 
those for the Swiss line to the 1. 

Post and Telegraph Office (PI. 15) in the Freien-Strasse and at the 
Central Station. 

Eaths in the Rhine near the Munster, entered from the Pfalz (p. 248), 
50 c. — Warm baths : Sigtnund 1 Leonhard-Str. ; Meyer-Hitter \ Elisabethen- 
Str. 

Newspapers at the r Lese-Gesellschaft near the 3Iiinster. Strangers intro- 
duced by a member, 



Munster. 



BALE. 



45. Route. 247 



Leckerli, a kind of cake regarded as a specialty of Bale, may be pur- 
chased of Steigers, Schneidergasse, near the Storch. 

English Church Service at the Three Kings Hotel. 

Bale (869 ft.), or Basel (comp. Baedeker's Switzerland), the 
capital of the canton Basel-Stadt(pop. 44,834; 12,019Rom. Cath.), 
is first mentioned in 374 as Basilea, having been probably founded 
by the Roman army when it fell back on the Rhine near the old 
Colonia Augusta Rauracorum (founded B. C. 27 by L. Munatius 
Plancus, now Basel Augst , 5 M. from Bale on the 1. bank of the 
Rhine). Bale is indebted for its wealth and prosperity to its ad- 
vantageous position at the junction of the frontiers of Germany, 
France, and Switzerland. 

The town lies on the 1. bank of the Rhine, and is connected 
with Klein-Basel by a wooden bridge, 200 yds. in length. In the 
middle of it, on the r. side rises a red sandstone obelisk, with a 
thermometer, barometer, etc. 

The *Miinster (PI. 9), an imposing edifice, with two lofty 
towers, formerly the Cathedral of the see of Bale (bishop's residence 
now at Soleure), was built by the Emp. Henry II. in 1010 — 1019, 
and restored in 1185, after a fire. In 1356 the old building was all 
but levelled by an earthquake, but was afterwards rebuilt in the 
Gothic style. Of the original Romanesque structure the N. portal, 
or St. Gallus gateway, still exists , adorned with statues of the 
Evangelists, John the Baptist, and other saints ; over the door is a 
relief of the wise and foolish virgins; at the sides, in six niches, 
are the works of charity ; at the top Christ on the Judg- 
ment-seat, and the angels at the last day, by whose trumpet 
mortals are so taken by surprise that they have barely time to don 
their garments. The W. Facade under the towers, with the prin- 
cipal gateway and tw^o side - entrances, belongs to the 14th cent.; 
on the front are the Virgin and Child, under them the Emp. Henry, 
the founder and benefactor of the Church, with the Empress He- 
lena ; on the two side-entrances two knights, 1. St. George and the 
Dragon, r. St. Martin. The Towers, 220 ft. in height, were not 
completed till 1500. In 1431 began the convocation of the great 
Council in the Miinster. It consisted of 500 ecclesiastics , whose 
ostensible task was a 'reformation of the Church in head and mem- 
bers', but after having disputed for years without result , and been 
excommunicated by Pope Eugene IV., it was at last dissolved in 
1448. The Church is open on Tuesd. and Frid.2 — 4. The sacristan 
lives opposite the principal entrance (fee y 2 

The Interior, bereft of its most beautiful ornaments in the great 
iconoclasm of 1529, was re-decorated in 1852—1856 with great skill. The 
beautiful rood-loft of 1381 now supports the organ, a very fine instrument 
(performances once or twice a week in summer, 6 — 7 p. m. $ adm. 1 fr.). 
Pulpit of 1486. The aisles and choir contain line old monuments built 
into the walls; in the N. aisle the old episcopal throne :, also reliefs of the 
11th cent, (scenes from the lives of the martyrs) ; font of 1465, on the 
pillar opposite to it the tombstone of the learned Erasmus of Rotterdam 
(d f 1536). In^thc passage round the choir arc monuments of the Empress 



24 S Route 45. 



BALE. 



Museum . 



Anna (d. 1281). wife of Rudolph of Hapsburg. and of her youngest son Charles. 
The modern stained glass windows represent Moses and David , Peter and 
Paul, the Evangelists, and Christ as Judge. The crypt , which helongs to 
the original edilice , contains relics of frescoes of the 13th cent. , and six 
sarcophagi of the family of the Margraves of Baden-Durlach (1683 — 1709). 

— A stair leads from the choir to the Council Hall, still exactly in the 
condition in which it was lei t 4m) years ago, and containing fragments of 
the celebrated Dance of Death of Bale, painted in 1409 to commemorate the 
plague, erroneously attributed to Holbein, and a few other relics. Here, 
too, is the Lallenkonig , a head from an old clock-tower on the Rhine 
bridge (taken down in 1839) , which rolled its eyes and protruded its 
t >ngue (/Lalli) at each stroke of the pendulum, and had been erected in 
derision of the inhabitants of Klein-Basel in consequence of a dispute. 

On the S. side of the Choir are extensive * Cloisters . built in 
136*2, 1400, and 14S7 . connecting the church with the episcopal 
palace, and one.' used as family burial-places, where the reformers 
tEcolampadius (&. 1 53 i J and Grrynaeus (d. 1541) repose. They ex- 
tend behind the Minister to a terrace overlooking the Rhine. 80 ft. 
below, termed the Pfalz. from an imperial Pfalz or palace to which 
it is said to have belonged. The Pfalz affords a pleasant survey of 
the green river and the dark heights of the Black Forest. Below 
it are the bathing establishments : above that to the W. is the 
Reading Club (p. '24I5J. Behind the Minister is the house of Eras- 
mus of Rotterdam, and a statue of (Ecolampadius. 

In the street leading to the N.W. trom the Miiimer-Platz to the 
bridge is the :;: Museum |P1. 14), op, n Send. 10—12, Wed. 2 — 4; 
on other days a dm. i 1'r. 

The Picture Gallery is remarkalde fur paintings and drawings by the 
younger Holbein, (b- at Augsburg 1498, d. in London 1554). On the 
Staircase : Cornelius , Cartoons fur the frescoes in the Ludwigkirche at 
Munich : Schnorr . Chriemhii de's lament . a cartoon of the picture in the 
Xibelungen - Saal at Munich: SUinte. Muses breaking the tables of the law, 
cartoun of a painting in Schloss Rheineck. Then several casts : Ghapon&re. 
David: Eietschel , Holbein. — Aht^' -Chamber : 1. Holbein; 2 — 11, Old 
copies from Holbein. — Room of the Drawings: 135, *136, *137. Albert 
Diirer; 157. Cornelius , Last Judgment, original drawing of a fresco in the 
Ludwigkirche at Munich. Under glass , the -Praise of Folly of Erasmus, 
with marginal illustrations by Holbein. — ^Paintings. A. Holbein Boom . 
7, 8. Schoolmaster s signboard of 1510: 13. Portrait of Bonifacius Amer- 
bach ; 14. The burgomaster Jacob Meyer and his wife: 16. Erasmus : 19. 
Body of Christ, of startling fidelity ; *2Q. Wife and children of the painter^ 
21. Last Supper ; *22. Fraulein Utienburg as Lais : *26. The Passion in 
eight -ections, a picture for which the Elector Maximilian offered 30,000 H. 
in 1641; 34. The bookseller Froben : 3b. A London merchant: ^52, 53. 
54. Fries , John the Baptist. In the centre a statue of Rebecca, by Imhpf. 

— B. Early German Room : 84. L. Cranach , Lucretia. — ■ C. Bale 
Room, or rather Room of Swiss Masters: 133. Hieron. Hess, Battle of St. 
Jacob on the Birs (p. 24yi: 141. Landerer, Entry into Bale of the federal 
ambassadors to swear allegiance to the Confederation in 1501 \ +Culame. 
Schreckhorn and Wetterhorn : ^150. Roller, Cattle piece : 166. L. Robert, 
Wounded robber and his wife. — D. Room IV: Teniers the Younger, 
173. Lute-player, *T74. Interior of a cottage; 199. A. Caracci, Sleep the 
type of Death : 209. Koch , Landscape in a storm, with Macbeth and the 
witches: 210. Ahlborn Mediaeval town : 211. Neber , The angels visiting 
Abraham. — E. Birmann Collection: 267. Ann. Carded, Nativity; 268. 
A. Pons in. Bacchus and his train: 270. Gherarde. ca cle Siena (J), Madonna 
and Child: 281. Phil, de Chumpaigne , Cardinal Fleury : ^282. Mabuse\ 
Adoration of the Magi : 289. Rembrandt (?) Portrait off a girl : *291. Te- 



Town Hall. 



BALE. 



45. Route. 249 



niers , Smoker $ 311 — 324. by Peter Birmann ; 325 — 330. by Sam. Birmann. 
In the centre a marble statue of Psyche by Schlbih. — Room VI. (to the 
1. of the Holbein Boom): pictures by Steinle, Schnorr, Bess, Schraudolph, 
Overbeck , d'c, without numbers. — Cabinet of Antiquities: small Roman 
and Greek relics and statuettes, found chiefly at Augst (p. 247) and Win- 
disch , ecclesiastical vessels, E. Indian idols, Swiss coins and medals, 
Etruscan vases , terracottas , mosaics, &c. — ^Mexican Cabinet (generally 
closed) : interesting objects from Mexico, two mummies, a glass case with 
curiosities from Peru and Chili. 

The University Library in the same building (open 2 — 4) con- 
tains 85,000 vols, and 4000 MSS., among the latter the Acts of the 
Council attached to a chain, writings of Luther, Melanchthon, Zwingli, 
Erasmus, &c. The University, founded in 1459 by Pius II. , the 
school of the great mathematicians Bernouilli , Merian , and Euler, 
is now attended by 130 students. The hall contains portraits of 
learned men of Bale , such as the cosmographer Sebastian Munster 
(d. 1532), the reformers CEcolampadius and Grynaeus, &c. 

The Town Hall (PL 17) in the market-place was erected in 
1508 in the: 'Burgundian' style, and restored in 1826. The facade 
is adorned with the town-arms (a black episcopal stall leaning on a 
fisherman's grappling-iron) and frescoes. In the court is a statue 
of Munatius Plancus, the founder of Augst (p. 247), and probably of 
Bale also. 

The handsome Spahien-Thor (St. Paul) , erected about 1400, 
has been recently restored ; the other gates, bastions, and ramparts 
are converted into public walks. 

The Fishmarkt- Fountain , of the 14th cent., restored in 1851, 
the Spahlen - Fountain , with a bagpiper designed by Alb. Diirer, 
the Roman archway in the old St. Alban's Monastery (PL 5), and 
the Barfusser Church (PL 4) of the 13th cent., with very lofty choir, 
are also interesting mediaeval structures. The modern Gothic Church 
of St. Elizabeth (PL 6), contains some line stained glass from Mu- 
nich. — The spacious Gothic Church of St. Clara (PL 25) at Klein- 
Basel, has lately been restored. 

The Monument of St. Jacob (PI. 3), about i| 2 M. S.E. of the jEschen- 
Thor , on the high-road to the Miinster-Thal , in marble by F. Schldth, 
was erected in 1872 over the burial-place of Swiss soldiers who fell while 
lighting for their country in 1444. 

Large bodies of irregular troops had assembled in France under Count 
Armagnac, with 30,000 of whom the Dauphin, afterwards Louis IX., marched 
against the Confederates at Bale. The latter were stationed at the fortress 
of Farnsburg, 15 M. S.E. of the town, and on the approach of the French, 
1300 men attempted to force their passage to Bale. After a desperate con- 
flict they were all cut to pieces near the village of St. Jacob , where the 
final struggle took place. The red wine yielded by the vineyards which 
now occupy the scene of the battle is known by the name of 'Swiss Blood'. 

The Mi s s ion a ry So cie I i e s of Bale are celebrated for their excellence 
and the success of their exertions. The Missionshdus (PI. 12) contains an 
interesting ethnographical collection from Hindostan and W. Africa. — A 
''Society for the Public Good\ with 800 members, founded towards the close 
of last cent. , presides over a number of schools and other establishments. 
— There are other similar institutions at Biehen, 3 M. to the N.E. of Bale, 
on the hill of St. Chrischona (p. 266). and at Beuggen (p. 273). 



250 

46. The Black Forest (Duchy of Baden). 

Pe d t .s t r i a n To u r of eleven days from Baden. 1st. Ebersteinschloss, 
Forbach, Schonmiinzach (p. 252). — 2nd. Hornisgrinde , Mummelsee, 
Allerheiligen (p. 254). — 3rd. Oppenan, (drive to) Griesbach, Holzwalder- 
hohe, Rippojdsau, Schapbach (p. 256). — 4tb. Wolfach, Hornberg, Triberg 
(p. 259). — 5th. Furtwangen, Simonswald, Waldkirch, Denzlingen, railway 
to Freiburg. — 6th. Freiburg and Environs. — 7th. (Drive to entrance of 
the) Hollenthal, Feldberg, Menzenschwand (p. 268). — 8th. St. Blasien, 
Hochenschwand , the Albstrasse to Albbruck (p. 273). — 9th. Railway to 
Brennet, Wehr (cavern at Hasel), Todtmoos (p. 267). — 10th. Prag, Schon- 
au, Belchen (p. 271). — 11th. Badenweiler and environs. 

The following routes are so planned , that after a walk of 2 — 3 days 
the railway may always be reached. The pedestrian will find the follow- 
ing maps, published by Herder at Freiburg, of great service : 1. Baden and 
the Kniebisbader : 2. Environs of Freiburg^ 3. S. Valleys of the Black 
Forest. Mounted, 1 fl. 12 kr. each. 

Of all the wooded districts of Germany, none present so beau- 
titul and varied landscapes as the Black Forest, especially the W, 
portion, belonging to Baden, the spurs of which decline pre- 
cipitously towards the plain of the Rhine, whilst the E. slopes 
are more gradual. The lower heights are covered with fragrant pine 
forest , while the populous valleys present a scene of luxuriant ve- 
getation. The rocks are gneiss, granite, and sandstone. Numerous 
mineral springs have given rise to a number of little watering 
places, which offer tempting retreats. Even in remote districts the 
inns are good (trout everywhere). 

The staple commodity is timber, which is floated down the prin- 
cipal streams to the Rhine, where larger rafts are constructed and 
navigated to Holland. Watch-making is an increasing branch of 
industry. In this prosperous district beggars are unknown. 

a. From Baden to Gernsbach and Allerheiligen. 

Murgthal, Hornisgrinde , Mummelsee. 

Com/). Map, p. 194. 
Two Days. 1st. Baden to Gernsbach 6 M. , thence to Forbach 10 M. 
(or from Baden to Forbach direct. 12 M. , see p. 251), Forbach to Schon- 
miinzach 7 M. ; 2nd. Schonmiinzach to the summit of the Bornisgrvndt 4' i 
hrs. , down to the Mummelsee '| 2 tar., Seebach 1 tar., Ottenhofen 3 (l hr., and 
thence over the hill to Allerheiligen i 1 hr. — Conveyances may be hired 
at Gernsbach, Forbach, and Schonmiinzach : two-horse carr. for 4 per?, 
from Gernsbach to Schonmiinzach 6 fl. 45 kr., Forbach to Schonmiinzach 
4 fl. . Schonmiinzach to the Eckle ( 3 |4 hr. from the Hornisgrinde) 5 fl. 
36 kr. ; the carriage-road ends here. — From Gernsbach to Schonmiinzach 
post-omnibus twice daily in 4 hrs. (fare 1 fl.). and Freudenstadt in hrs. 
(fare 13J 4 fl.). 

The Murg rises on the Kniebis (p. 2551 from three springs which 
unite below Baiersbronn (p. 2521. After a course of 45 M. it falls 
into the Rhine below Rastatt. The inhabitants of its banks are al- 
most exclusively engaged in the timber-traffic. The wood felled in 
winter is carried down by the spring floods to the Rhine, and crowds 
often assemble to witness the vast masses precipitated into the 
stream. 

The * Murgthal between (jrernshacb and Schonmiinzach is 



Black Forest, 



FORBACH. 



46. Route, 251 



wild and beautiful. The slopes are richly clothed with wood, often 
enlivened by green meadows and cottages in the Swiss style. As far 
as Schonmiinzach the rocks consist of granite, huge blocks of which 
lie scattered about ; beyond it the formation is gneiss , whence the 
smooth , rounded aspect of the slopes. Variegated sandstone also 
occurs. The valley then widens and loses much of its peculiar 
charm. It is seen to the best advantage in descending. 

Baden to Gernsbach and the Ebersteinschloss , see p. 199. The 
road in the Murgthal gradually ascends at the foot of the hill on 
which the Ebersteinschloss stands. The pedestrian coming from 
Forbach follows the footpath by the last house at Obertsroth (1 M. 
from Gernsbach) in order to reach the castle. 

At (1 M.) Hilpertsau the road crosses the Murg. A road travers- 
ing picturesque scenery leads hence by Reichenthal and the fores- 
ter's house of Kaltenbronn , and past the (r.) Hohlochthurm to (21 
M.) WUdbad (comp. p. 238). The next village is (1 M.) Weissen- 
bach (*Gruner Baum), the modern Gothic church of which contains 
some good stained glass and modern altar-pieces. The hamlet of Au 
lies picturesquely on the 1. bank of the Murg. The valley becomes 
narrower and wilder ; p 1 ^^.) Langenbrand (Ochs) ; (IV2 ^0 Gaus- 
bach. A pleasant path , shaded in the afternoon , leads from Weis- 
senbach by Au on the 1. bank of the Murg to Langenbrand; the 
Murg is crossed by a stone bridge near the latter village, which the 
traveller then reaches by the high road. A pretty panorama is com- 
manded by an eminence , shortly before the bridge is reached. — 
Near Forbach the road crosses the Murg by a covered bridge. 

Forbach (* Krone , conveyances; *Hirseh and Lowe, by the 
bridge), a thriving village , with a church picturesquely situated on 
an eminence, is the finest point in the valley. 

The Footpath from Baden to Forbach (12 M.) diverges to the r. from 
the carriage - road to Ebersteinschloss at a finger-post 3 \\ M. beyond Ober- 
beuren (p. 200), being at first a broad track; 3| 4 M., Geisbach, then (li| 2 M.) 
Schmalbach, where the road to the 1. must be followed ; l 1 ^ M. farther the 
broad path diverges to the r. from the road and leads for 1 M. along the 
E. slope of the hill , passing a meadow. At the end of the meadow turn 
to the 1.5 at a cross-way, i| 4 M. farther, ascend the hill in a straight di- 
rection; in 1 /4 M. more the main road is reached and is followed for 3 | t M.; 
at the finger-post turn to the 1. to Bermersbach (l 1 ^ M.). The path now 
ascends to the r. by the village-well and 1>J 4 M. farther reaches Forbach. 
The first 9 M. are chiefly through wood. 

A lonely, but easily traced forest-path leads from Forbach to the W. 
to (3 hrs.) Herrenwies (Auerhahn), a village situated on a bleak and lofty 
plain surrounded by high mountains. Thence to railway stat. Biihl (p. 200) 
a beautiful walk of 3 hrs. through the Biihlerthal ; to the Hornisgrinde and 
Mummelsee (p. 253) also 3 hrs. 

Beyond Forbach the Murgthal, although more deserted, 
continues grand and beautiful, resembling some of the wildest 
Swiss valleys ; below dashes the torrent over scattered rocks , while 
dark, overhanging pine-clad hills rise on either side. 

About halfway to Schonmiinzach the Rauhmiinzach falls into the 
Murg; 1 M ? from the confluence the former is augmented by the 



252 Route 4d. 



BAIERSBRONX. 



Black Forest. 



Schwarzbach, which forms a waterfall (insignificant in dry weather). 
A new road leads through the valley of tin- Schwarzbach to (10 1 g 
M. J Herrenwies (see above). 

Schonmunzach (*Glashutte, or Post ; :;: WaldAom), the first village 
in Wurtemberg, consists of a few houses. The Lrook of the same 
name falls into the Murg here. (Bathing-place in the latter on the 
1. bank, y 4 M. above the Post.) To the Hornisgrinde , see below. 

The Murg, l 1 /.? M. beyond Schonmunzach, penetrates a preci- 
pitous wall of rock, beyond which the valley loses its wild character. 
The village of Schwarzenberg (Ochs) on the height to the 1. com- 
mands a pleasant view; on the r. Hutzenbach; then (2y 4 M.) Seho- 
nengrund (Inn) , whence a road lead- to the X. by Besenfeld and 
Lrnagold to Enzklosterle, and through the Enzthal to Wildbad. 
On this road, 3 / 4 M. from S-vhonengrund. are situated the scanty re- 
mains of the castle of Konigswart. 

The next village in the Murgthal is (3% M.) Reichenbach 
(Sonne. R. 36, D. 3(3. pen-ion 1 fl.45kr.) 3 the Romanesque church 
of which, erected in 140'2. once belonged to a Benedictine abbey. Then 
( l 2y 4 M.) Baiersbronn (Ochs), a considerable village at the conflu- 
ence of the Murg and the Forbqch. 

The road following the course of the latter passes the considerable 
government foundries of Friedfichsthal and Chrisiophsthal , and leads to 
(4>f2 M.) Freudenstadt (^Post; Lowe; Linde), a loftily situated town uf 
Wurtemberg with 4'JUU inhab. , and curiously constructed Protestant church. 
This edifice consists of two naves at right angles to each other, in one of 
which the male, and in the other the female members of the congregation 
sit , while the altar and pulpit are placed at the angle. The Romanesque 
font and the skilfully carved choir-stalls are worthy of notice. Near the 
Rom. Cath. church , l \z M. from the town , a ^view of the Swabian Alb, 
Hohenzollern Arc. may be enjojed. — Good roads lead from Freudenstadt 
to the W. over the Kniebis (p. 255) to Oppenau , to the S. to Alpirsbuclt 
and Schtltach (p. 258) , and to the E. by Dornstetien to Horb on the Upper 
Xeckar Railway (comp. Baedeker' s S. Germany). 

At Baiersbronn the valley of the Murg turn- towards the N.W., 
and is traver-ed by a new road. From (3 M.) Mittelthal ( \V<dJ- 
horn) a good road leads S. to the (4 1 o M. ) Kniebis Refuge near the 
Schwedenschanze (p. '255 ). The next village in the Murgthal. into 
which numerous brooks are precipitated from the Kniebis is (3M.) 
Oberlhal (halfway to which the ruin of Tannenfels is situated on a 
precipitous rock in a wild gorge on the r.); on the 1. is the exten- 
sive Buhlbach Glasshouse. The road continues to ascend, tin ally in 
long windings, to (6 M.) the Rulistein [Inn), its culminating point, 
whence it descends [commanding several line views) to (3 M. ) Se^- 
ba€h ip. '253). From the last bend in the road (finger - post on 
the r.) the Mummelsee (see below) may be reached in : y 4 hr. 



To the Hor ni s g r inde a n d M u m melsee the most fre- 
quented road from the Murgthal ascends from Schonmunzach (see 
above) to the W. on the r. bank of the Schoninunzach (and there is 
also a new road on the 1. hank) to Zwickgabel (3 M.). crosses the 



Black Forest. 



SEE BACH. 



46, Route. 253 



brook, and ascends to the r. along the Langenbach, which atZwick- 
gabel unites with the Schonmunzach ; passes (i x fa M.) Vorder-Lan- 
genbach, where there is a timber sluice, and at (2y 4 M.) Hinter- 
Langenbach (Zupfle), ascends to the 1. 5 guides for the Hornisgrinde 
and Mummelsee may be procured here. 

The road now ascends more abruptly to the (3 M.) Eckle, a strip of 
wood on the mountain, where a stone marks the boundary between 
Wurtemberg and Baden, and a view of the Yosges is obtained. The 
road to the 1. descends to Seebach, situated on the new road through 
the Murgthal (see above) ; a footpath only leads to the Hornis- 
grinde. 

Three paths enter the wood at the Eckle: that most to the r., a 
bridle-path, leading straight to the S., forms the boundarybetween the 
above states; the second and most trodden, also inclining to the r., 
leads past the Drei-Filrstenstein , bearing the arms of Baden and 
Wurtemberg, to the summit of the Hornisgrinde. The third, path 
(to the Mummelsee), at first little trodden , runs parallel with the 
road, and after a few paces joins a broad track, which slightly 
ascends the hill - side ; the broad stony path ascending to the r., 
10 min. from the Eckle, then leads to the lake in l fa hr. 

The second of the above paths leads to the (25 min.) * Hornis- 
grinde (3825 ft.) , the top of which is marked by a massive stone 
Signal, supported by stakes. The bare and marshy summit commands 
a very extensive view, which however is frequently shrouded in mist : 
to the E. the Swabian Alb, the Achalm at Reutlingen , the Hohen- 
twiel, and other peaks of the Hohgau ; S. the heights of the Black 
Forest, Feldberg, Belchen, Blauen, and beyond them even the Alps 
(comp. p c 272); S.W. the Kaiserstuhl (p. 244), and Vosges ; W. 
the vast plain of the Rhine; nearly opposite rises the spire of Strass- 
burg, and on a mountain in the foreground the extensive ruins of 
the Brigittenschloss (p. 201); N. the mountains around Baden, the 
Mercuriusberg (p. 199), and even the Thurmberg near Durlach. 

From the Hornisgrinde the new path descends in windings to 
the S.E. in 1 hr. to the Mummelsee (3385 ft.), agloomy little lake, 
surrounded by pine-clad mountains , and popularly believed to be 
inhabited by water-sprites. By the Seebach, the brook issuing from 
the lake on the S. , is a hut which affords shelter in bad weather. 
Excellent water issues from the rock at the N.W. corner, about ten 
paces above the lake, near the path from the Hornisgrinde. 

From the Mummelsee a steep footpath descends in l fa hr. to the 
new Murgthal road (p. 252), reaching it at the inn *Zum Adler. 
On this road Seebach (lower part 1174 ft., upper 1623 ft.) (Krone; 
Hirscli) lies Ufa M. farther. From Seebach two routes lead to Aller- 
heiligen (p. 254), one an uninteresting path over the mountains (in 
i^-fa hr., guide 36 kr.) ; the othe* and more attractive follows the 
valley as far as (2i/ 4 M.) Ottenhbfen (p. 254); thence to Aller- 
heiligen, see below. 



254 



b. Allerheiiigen, Buttenstein Waterfalls, Kniebisbader. 

Comp. Mop, pp. 194 y 238. 
Two Days. 1st. From Achern to Gnesbach 24 M.. better by carriage: 
2nd. To Hausacb 24 M. — Or the traveller may accomplish this tour in 
one day by carriage: From Achern to Xeuhaus (one-horse carr. 5, two- 
horse 8 fl. . p. 200) in l 1 2 hr. ; walk to Allerheiiigen 3 4 hr. . from the inn 
to thegfoot of the falls 20 min. , then drive (one-horse 3i ;2 A.) to Gries- 
bach 2 1 U hrs.; walk over the Holzwalder Hohe to Bippohlsau 2 1 4 hrs. \ 
drive (4 fl. 5 omnibus twice daily 1 fl. 24 kr.) to Hausach 3 hrs. 

Achern (p. '200) is the starting-point for this tour. The road to 
Allerheiiigen leads through the Kappeler Thai, a pleasant, green 
dale (to the 1. on the hill, the Brigittenschloss , p. 201), past the 
villages of ( 4 /2 MV) Oberachern and £2*/2 -M.) Kappel i*0ehs). and 
ascends by the course of the Achernbach (to the r. the chateau of 
Roderk.i to (3 M.J Ottenhofen (1020 ft.) (*Linde, *Pfluy . *Wagcn, 
unpretending: pension in all about l 4 / 2 n 0- 

From Ottenhofen to Allerheiiigen by the Edelfrmtengrab and 
the Blorhereck (2 1 4 hrs.) . a very attractive walk. From the church turn 
to the 1.. then follow the footpath immediately to the r., and the road to 
the L higher up. After 10 min. follow the middle road in a straight 
direction, traverse the pretty Gottschlagthal, cross the brook several times, 
and Anally ascend by steps to the (20 min. i EdelfrauengTab ( grave of the 
noble lady") . a very insignificant grotto to which a romantic legend 
attaches. The environs are very picturesque . especially the road ascend- 
ing beyond this point. Good road the whole way, provided with finger- 
posts. Then (1 hr.) Biockerect, beyond which the wood is traversed, and 
the new road soon reached (see below) : hr., Allerheiiigen. — Travellers 
coming from Seebach (p. 251) need not proceed as far as Ottenhofen , but 
should diverse to the 1. at the Hagenbruclce, 3 4 M. from Seebach. and enter 
the Gottschlagthal. 

The carriage-road from Ottenhofen to Allerheiiigen ascends the 
UfUerwasser-Thal towards the S. to the i'2 : 4 M.] Neuhaus E : - 
prinz). Here the new road describes a wide curve in the valley to- 
wards the 1., while the old road ascends the steep slope on the r., 
on the summit of which the roads again unite. Fine retrospective 
views from the new road: i 1 o M. from the Neuhaus a way -post 
indicates the way to the EdelfrauengTab by Blochereck ( see above). 

From the top of the hill (from which a short cut descends by 
steps to tli- r.3 the road descends in windings to i'2 1 4 M.) * Aller- 
heiiigen (1968 ft.\ the nrst glimpse of which is very striking. The 
grand ruins of the Premonstratensian Abbey . founded by the Du- 
chess Uta of Schauenburg in 1196. secularised in 1802 . and partly 
destroyed by lightning in 1803 . occupy almost the entire breadth 
of the wooded dale. Travellers should use the utmost caution in ex- 
ploring them, owing to their unsafe condition. A Prussian gentle- 
man lost Ms life here in 1862. Mittenmaier's Inn (D. In. 12 kr.) 
is often full in summer ; travellers should therefore arrive early , as 
they may have to continue their journey the same evening. 

From Allerheiiigen to Rippoldsau direct (4 hrs.) over the 
Kniebis (guide unnecessary, way-posts everywhere). The route is through 
wood for the first hour: farther on. an extensive prospect is enjoyed, em- 
bracing the plain of the Ehine. Strassburg. and the Vosges Mts. \ 1*2 hr. 
Refuge by the Schweden«chanze ; 1 hr. Kniebis; l'j 2 hr. Rippoldsau (p. 256). 



Black fiorest. 



BAD PETERSTHAL. 



46. Route. 255 



A shorter route thither leads from the Alexander scliartze : follow the Gries- 
bach road for ] | 2 M. , then enter the wood to the 1. ; after 20 min. more, 
where the path divides, select that descending rapidly to the r. 

Immediately below the monastery is a rugged cleft in the rocks, 
formed apparently by volcanic agency, through which the Grinden- 
bach is precipitated over blocks of granite in seven falls, termed the 
'Sieben Biitten' (Seven cauldrons), or * Biittenstein Falls, some of 
them 50 ft. in height, into the valley beneath. A good path, cut through 
the rock at places, or supported by ladders , descends by the falls to 
the (20 min.) bottom of the valley, 300 ft. below. From the second 
'Rondel', or platform, the double fall is best surveyed. The water- 
falls , which are chiefly remarkable for their picturesque acces- 
sories, are seen to the best advantage in ascending from the valley 
below. 

At the finger-post by the bridge beyond the falls the carriage- 
road from Allerheiligen is reached ; and it now follows the bank of 
the Lierbach (as the Grindenbach is now called) , high on the slope 
of the hill. At the Kreuz Inn, near Oppenau , the road to Freuden- 
stadt and Antogast (see below) diverges to the r. At (6 M.) the busy 
little town of Oppenau (*8tahlbad ; Post) 'Kirschwasser' is largely 
manufactured. Through the Renchthal to Appenweier , see p. 201. 

The Kniebis Road ascends the Rossbiihl from Oppenau in windings 
(pleasing retrospects) to the (6 M.) Schivabenschanze ('Swabian intrenchmenf), 
an earth- work thrown up during the last century; *j 4 M. to the S. is the 
Schwedenschanze ; near it the inn *Zur Zuflucht. About l 1 ^ M. farther is 
the grass - grown Alexander schanze (Inn) , on the summit of the Kniebis 
(1476 ft.), which commands an extensive view towards the S. andE., and 
whence a good road diverges to the S. to Griesbach. At the inn Zum 
Lamm, 1 M. farther, another road diverges , leading to Rippoldsau by the 
E. side of the Holzwalder Hohe. The Kniebis road then leads by the 
Wurtemberg village of Kniebis (*Ochs; Lamm) to (6 3 | 4 M.) Freudenstadt 
(p. 253). 

Proceeding to the S. from Oppenau (diligence twice daily), the 
traveller enters the attractive valley of the rapid Bench , in which 
the 'Kniebis Baths' of Freiersbach , Petersthal , and Griesbach are 
situated. From (3 3 / 4 M.) Locherberg roads lead to the S. through the 
(W.) Nordrachthal, and the (E.) Harmersbachthal to (lO 1 ^ M.) Zell 
am Harmersbach (p. 257). The next place in the Renchthal is 
(2i/ 4 M.) Freiersbach (12(30 ft.) (Meyer's Hotel, with baths), with 
sulphureous and chalybeate springs, situated in a pretty dale , en- 
closed by lofty hills. Then (3/ 4 M.) Bad Petersthal (Schlussel and 
Kaiser von Deutschland in the village ; Mailer's Hotel and Baths, 
with post and telegraph office , at the upper end) , the most im- 
portant of these small watering-places, in a sheltered situation, em- 
bellished with well-kept grounds. The springs contain iron and 
carbonic acid gas. 

A beautiful route leads hence to the E. through the Freierslhal and 
Wildschapbachthal into the Schapbachthal (p. 256). 

The Renchthal now turns towards the N. ; 2*/ 4 M. Griesbach 
(1626 ft.) (*Monsch-JockersVs Baths, an extensive establishment, 
R, 1 fl., B. 24, A. 18 kr.), possesses a chalybeate spring, extolled 



256 Route 16, 



RIPPOLDSAU. 



Black Forest 



200 years ago by Taberna?niontanus. Most of the patients areladi ) 
A fourth of these Kniebis Baths is Antogast (1585 ft.) (*Hube\ 
known as early as the 16th cent., charmingly situated in the prei 
Maisachthal, 3 M. to the E. of Oppenau. 

The road through theRenchthal now ascends in windings to the 
Kniebis. About 3 /4 M. beyond Griesbach, three paths diverge to the 
r. ; of these select that farthest to the 1., a broad track provided with 
benches, following the telegraph-wires. Resin is here largely ob- 
tained from incisions made in the pine-stems. 

About 5 min. below the summit is the 'Sophien -Ruhe', which 
affords a tine retrospect of the Griesbach Valley. The path on the 
highest part of the Holzwalder Hdhe (3004 ft.) is level for a few 
hundred paces, and then descends by long windings (timber -path 
to the I. to be avoided) to the ( 3 / 4 hr.) Kniebis road, which leads to 
the r. to (1 M.) Rippoldsau (1856 ft.), the most frequented of the 
Kniebis Baths (2000 visitors annually), situated in the sequestered, 
pine-clad Wolf thai. The water contains sulphate of soda , and is 
beneficial in bowel-complaints. It is exported in bottles (800,000 
annually), and the chemical ingredients of the water are sold under 
the name of "Rippoldsau salts'. Gdrinyer's hotel and bath-house af- 
fords good accommodation (R. 1 fl., D. 1 fl. 24 kr.); music 7 — 8 p. 
m. — Omnibus twice daily to Hausach (1 fl. 24 kr.) ; one-horse 
carr. to Hausach 4 fl. ; railway thence to Offenburg, see below. 

The dissolved Benedictine priory, or l Kldsterle > (*Zum Erb- 
prinzen, R. 48, D. 1 fl. 12, B. 18 kr. ; carriages), with its church 
with two towers, founded in the 12th cent. , lies % M. below the 
baths, on the road descending the picturesque valley of the Wolf- 
bach. To the 1. of the road 3 / 4 M. from the Klosterle, are some huge 
granite rocks , near which the Burbach forms a small waterfall (in 
rainy weather only). On the r. , 1 M. farther , the Seebach , which 
drains the lonely Wildsee, or Glaswald- See on the hill (l J /2 hr. 
from the road), dashes down from a wild ravine. Below this point 
the valley is termed the Schapbachthal. 

Schapbach (*Ochs, at the lower end of the village; Adler, 
Sonne), 6 M. from Rippoldsau, is a long, straggling village remark- 
able for the quaint costume of the peasants and the curious con- 
struction of their cottages. (Ground-floor stable, first-floor dw elling- 
house, granary and hay-loft above.) On the r. , l/g beyond the 
village, opens the Wildschapbachthal, through which the route men- 
tioned at p. 255 leads to Petersthal. Then (6 3 / 4 M.) Oberwolfach, 
and (1 M.) Wolfach, see p. 258. 

c. From Offenburg to Constance. 

Kinzigthal, Triberg, Valleys of Simonswald and Elz. 

Rail wau from Offenburg to Hausach in 1 hr. (fares 1 fl. 21, 57, 36 
kr.) ; from Villingen to Constance in 3i| 4 hrs. (fares 3 fl. 54, 1 fl. 39, 1 fl. 
42 kr.); Post -omnibus from Hausach to Villingen twice daily in 3 hrs., 



Black Forest. 



HAUSACH. 



46. Route, 257 



m 42 kr. (one-horse carr. from Hausach to Triberg and back in 5 hrs., 
.'/ I.), 

Pedestrians intending to visit the waterfall of Triberg, and proceed 
nee to Freiburg and the Hollenthal, should arrange the excursion thus : 
Day. Railway from Offeriburg to Hausach in 1 hr. ; walk to Triberg, 
M. ; 2nd Day. Walk to Furtwangen , 7^2 M. \ thence through the valley 
of Simonswald and the Elz to Waldkirch, 16 J |2 M. 

The Railway from Off enburg to Haus a c h traverses the 
broad, populous, and fertile Kinzigthal, a valley enclosed by gently 
sloping mountains. Stat. Ortenberg (Krone), above which on a vine- 
clad hill rises the chateau of * Ortenberg (3 3 /4 M. from Offenburg), 
occupying the site of an ancient stronghold destroyed by Marshal 
Crequi in 1668. The limited grounds of the chateau are prettily 
laid out, and the interior is tastefully fitted up, but the view of the 
Vosges Mts. is the principal attraction. Excellent wine is produced 
by the vineyards on the castle-hill , and also by those belonging 
to the village. 

Stat. Gengenbach (Adler; Salm ; Sonne), an independent town 
down to the Peace of Luneville , still exhibits traces of its former 
importance in its walls , gates , and towers , although most of the 
buildings have been erected since the destruction of the town by 
the French in 1689. The handsome old Benedictine Abbey, to which 
the town owes its origin, was also formerly exempt from all external 
jurisdiction. 

Stat. Schdnberg, then Bib erach (Krone), at the mouth of the 
Harmersbach. On the latter, 1^2 M. distant, lies the thriving vil- 
lage of Zell (Hirsch; Lowe); the valley there divides into the Un- 
terharmersbach and the Nor drach- Thai, through both of which roads 
lead to the Renchthal (p. 255). 

From Bib erach to Lahr (9 M.) a road leads by Schdnberg , a soli- 
tary inn, then through the Schutterthal by Reichenbach and Kuhbach. About 
3 M. to the W. of Biberach, and x \i M. to the N. of the road, rises a lofty 
and precipitous rock, crowned with the ruins of Hohengeroldseck, an ex- 
tensive castle destroyed by Marshal Crequi in 1697, and commanding a 
complete survey of the Kinzigthal, the Schutterthal, and the plain of the 
Rhine. Lahr, see p. 239. 

Before stat. Steinach is reached, the line crosses the Kinzig. 
Stat. Hasslach (728 ft.) (*Kreuz) , the chief town of the district, 
formerly in the principality of Fiirstenberg , was destroyed by the 
French on their retreat after the battle of Hochstadt. 

The road leading hence to the S. by Hofstetten to (9 M.) Elzach (p. 
260) traverses beautiful scenery; on the 1., halfway, rise the insignificant 
ruins of the Heidburg. 

Stat. Hausach (783 ft.) (*H6tel Schmieder, at the station) is at 
present the terminus of the railway , the continuation of which to 
Hornberg, Triberg, St. Georgen, and Yillingen is in course of con- 
struction. Above it rise the ruins of an old castle of the princes of 
Fiirstenberg, destroyed by the French in 1643. 

Post-omnibus to Wolfach (see below) 3 times daily in i| 2 hr. , fare 12 
kr. 5 to Rippoldsau (p. 256) twice daily in 3^4 hrs. , fare 1 fl. 24 kr. ; to 
Alpirsbach (see below) twice daily in 3 hrs., fare 1 fl. 6 kr. 



B^deker's Rhine. 5th Edit. 



17 



258 Route 46. 



HORNBERG. 



Black Forest. 



Following the Kinzigthal , the traveller next reaches ( 3 /' 4 M.) 
Am Thurm . at the mouth of the Gutach , through the valley of 
which the road to Hornberg and Triberg diverges to the r. (see be- 
low). The road to Wolfach crosses the Kinzig several times. (% l h 
MO Wolfach (869 ft.) (*Salm : R. 48 kr. , D. 1 fl. 12 kr. ; Bother 
Ochse; *Engel; * Krone: Zahringer Hof). the chief town of the dis- 
trict, with a handsome 'Amtshaus', formerly a chateau . at the en- 
trance to the town . is situated between precipitous mountains at 
the confluence of the Wolfach and the Kinzig. The Pine-cone Baths 
attract a number of visitors. A good road leads hence to the N. 
through the Wolfach and Schapbach valleys to Rippoldsau (p. 256). 

The road in the Kinzigthal follows the r. bank of the brook to 
(3 M.) Halbmeil. where it crosses to the 1. bank. Higher up . the 
valley is termed Vordere Lehngericht. Then (6 M.) Schiltach (1118 
ft.) (*Krone; Ochs). an old town situated at the union of the Schil- 
tach and the Kinzig. with a modern church, and a ruined castle on 
a hill. A good road leads through the Schiltachthal ('Hinteres Lehn- 
gericht' ) , which here opens to the S. , to (6 M.) Schramberg (see 
below). (4 1 o MO Schenkenzell (Sonne), the next village in the 
Kinzigthal. carries on an extensive traffic in timber. An arm of the 
Kinzig here descends from the N., from the Reinerzau, a pictu- 
resque valley , through which a road leads to Vormthal . Berneck. 
and (13V2 MO Freudenstadt (p. 252). The last village in the Kinzig- 
thal is Alpirsbach (Lowe) . with an interesting church in the tran- 
sition style. High-road hence through the Fhlenbogenthal to (lO 1 /? 
M.) Freudenstadt : another to Dornhan and (lO 1 /? M.) Oberndorf 
on the L'pper Xeckar railway (comp. Baedeker's S. Germany'). 

The Road to Hornberg and Tr i b erg (one-horse carr.. see 
above) turns to the r. at Am Thurm (see above) and ascends the 
picturesque and fertile valley of the Gutach to (3 M.) Gutach (Krone; 
Lowe), and (0 M.) Hornberg (2070 ft.) (*Post: Bar), where the 
costume of the peasantry is worthy of notice. The women wear black 
petticoats, green boddices, and broad-brimmed straw -hats adorned 
with black or red rosettes; the men black coats with a red lining. 
The picturesque castle, situated on a precipitous hill, was taken 
in 1703 by Marshal Tillars, but soon recovered by the peasantry. 

From Hornberg to Schramberg a charming walk of 10 1 2 M. 
through the Schdnachthal, by Lauterbach. Schramberg (Post), a busy little 
town, prettily situated on the Schiltach , is commanded by the lofty ruins 
of an old castle. Picturesque road thence to (6 M.) Schiltach (see above). 
The return route to Hornberg may be made by the ^Berneck , a romantic 
rocky valley, and Thennenbronn (Lowe) : thence across the Benzebene (guide 
desirable), and through the Reichenbachthal to Hornberg. 

Between Hornberg and (7 l / 2 M.) Triberg , the finest part of the 
route, the road traverses picturesque rocky and wooded ravines (known 
as the 'Kleine Holle* : comp. p. 261). the beauty of which of which is 
somewhat marred by the tunnels and bridges of the new railway. 
The valley expands at the Kreuzbrilcke (*Post) . where the road to 



Black Forest. 



DONAUESCHINGEN. 



46. Route. 259 



St. Georgen (see below) leads to the 1., while that to the r. leads to 
( 3 / 4 M.) the small town of Triberg (*L6we; at the upper end of the 
town; *Ochs; *Sonnej, situated 1971 ft. above the sea-level, the 
central point of the Black Forest , and chief depot of the clock and 
watch trade. 

The great attraction here is the * Waterfall, which is visible 
from a considerable distance. The path ascends to the 1. by the 
'Lowe' ; in 20 min. the highest bridge over the fall is attained; 200 
yds. farther , from an open space on the 1. bank , a fine view of the 
little town and valley is obtained. The fall of the Fallback, the finest 
in W. Germany, is 507 ft. high , and divided into seven distinct 
leaps by huge blocks of granite. The frame -work , like that of the 
Giessbach in Switzerland, is formed by dark pines. The best points 
are conveniently reachedby paths. A pleasant footpath ascends on the 
r. bank to Schonwald (p. 260). 

The high road to Yillingen leads from the post-house by the 
Kreuzbriicke (see above) by Nussbach an& Sommerau, the watershed 
between the Rhine and the Danube, to (6 M.) St. Georgen (Adler; 
Hirsch), a busy, watch- manufacturing place , prettily situated on a 
height on the 1. bank of the Brig ach. The Protestant church contains 
a fine altar of the 14th cent., brought from the old Benedictine ab- 
bey which was suppressed in 1806. TheBrigach, which after a course 
of 21 M. unites with the Brege at Donaueschingen and forms the 
Danube (see below), rises about 4 M. to the "W. of St. Georgen. 

The road follows the valley of the Brigach to (3 M.) Peterzell, 
from which it traverses a monotonous, lofty plain to (7^2 M.) Vil- 
lingen (*Post; Lilie; Hecht ; Lowe; beer at the Falke) , an ancient 
and manufacturing town (4500 inhab.) with walls and gates. Gothic 
Munsterkirche with two towers (of 1420). The Rathhaus contains 
well preserved rooms in the mediaeval style, ancient dungeons, etc. 
The handsome Altstadtthurm by the cemetery, y 2 M. from the town, 
is said to be of Roman origin. Post- omnibus daily to Furtwangen 
and Waldkirch (p. 261) in 7 hrs. 

Yillingen is at present the terminus of the railway. At stat. 
Marbach the line to Rottweil diverges to the 1. The pleasant valley 
of the Brigach is now traversed to 

Donaueschingen ft. ~) (Schutze ; Post), a very ancient town, 

with 3109 inhab., the residence of the Prince of Fiirstenberg. The 
Schloss contains several pictures of the early German school and a 
collection of engravings. In the Library is preserved a collection of 
early German MSS. of great value (that of the Nibelungenlied is the 
most important extant, except those at Munich and St. Gall). 
To the 1. of the entrance to the Schlossgarten is a round basin with 
a spring of clear water, which is conducted by a subterranean chan- 
nel to the Brigach, about 100 ft. distant. This is sometimes termed 
the 'Source of the Danube 1 , but the name is applied for the first 
time to the stream formed by the union of the Brigach and Brege. 

17* 



260 Route 46. 



FURTWANGEN. 



Black Forest. 



A sandstone group in the park is emblematical of the Danube , Bri- 
gach, and Brege. — Post-omnibus to Freiburg (p. 240) in 8 hrs. ; 
to Neustadt (p. 264) twice daily in A 1 / 2 hrs. 

The railway now follows the grassy valley of the Danube. Sta- 
tions Neidingen, Geisingen, Immendingen (junction for Tuttlingen 
andRottweil, see Baedekers S. Germany), Engen, Singen . and 
Constance (p. 274). 



From Triberg to Furtwangen, The road ascends in long: 
windings, which the path (p. 259) by the waterfall cuts off. At the 
Pilgrimage Church a road diverges to the r. to Schonach , and leads- 
through the Prechthal to (13V9 M.) Elzach (see p. 261). The village 
of (3 3/ 4 M.) Schonwald (*Adler) possesses a handsome church. 
From almost every house resounds the tapping of hammers and the 
peculiar grating of riles, indicating the abodes of watchmakers. Plea- 
sant footpath across the Briglirain and through the Xonnen- 
bachthal to (2*/2 hrs.) Simonswald (see below). 

The road now ascends from Schonwald 3/ 4 M. farther to the inn 
Zum Kreuz (the public room of which contains a large musical clock) r 
its culminating point , and the watershed between the Rhine and 
the Danube (admirable distant view) , and then descends (pedes- 
trians may take the old road to the r. immediately beyond the pass) 
to (3 M.) Furtwangen (2860 ft.) {*Fehrenbach ; Sonne; Ochs , by 
the post-office) on the Brege , a prosperous little town , where the 
best clocks and watches in the Black Forest are manufactured. A 
large assortment of these articles are on view at the ; Gewerbe- 
halle". or industrial hall. High road hence to the E. by Vohrenbach 
to (12 M.) Villingen (see above). Pleasant excursion to the Brend. 
an eminence l 1 /? nr - t0 the N. 3 commanding a fine view. 



From Furtw ang en to Simonswald (and WaldkircK). The 
excellent new *road winds towards the W. . affording beautiful 
views, to (4 1/ 2 M.) GHitenbach (3051 ft.) (Fackler) , another busy, 
watch-making place. On the 1.. 2V4 M. farther, the Wilde Gutach 
is precipitated from a deep ravine ; the road here turns towards the 
N; The inn Zum Engel . 3 M. farther, lies at the junction of the 
road with the old Kilpenstrasse. The cascade which has already been 
visible from several parts of the road , and is most conveniently vi- 
sited from this point, is the *Fall of the Zweribach (the Gutach is 
crossed, and its 1. bank ascended , past several farms ; the valley 
whence the Zweribach issues is finally entered ; l 1 ^ nr - t° tne fall). 
A rough path leads from the fall to the Plattenhof, and to the sum- 
mit of the Kandel (2 hrs.. see below). 

The road next leads through the beautiful Simonswald Valley 
to Ober Simonswald , and (T 1 ^ from Giitenbach) Unter Simcn?- 
u-ald (Krone). At (3 M.) Bleybach the valley opens into the broad 



Black Forest. HOLLENTHAL. 46. Route. 261 



and smiling Elzthal , in which the old town of Elzach is situated 6 
M. higher up. A new road leads from the latter by Hofstetten to 
Hasslach in the Kinzigthal (comp. p. 257). 

At Bleybach the road turns to the S. to Gutach and (3M.) Wald- 
kirch (909 ft.) (*Post; Rebstock), a thriving place , and chief town 
of the district , prettily situated at the base of the Hohe Kandel 
(4078.it.), which may be ascended in2Y2 — 3 hrs. (superb prospect). 
Then by the pleasant little baths of Suggenthal, to the railway stat. 
Denzlingen, 3 3 / 4 M. distant (p. 239 : post-omnibus from Waldkirch 
,5 times daily in i/ 2 nr v ^ are ^ kr - 5 one-horse carr. 2 fL). 

d. From Freiburg to St. Blasien, 
Hbllenthal, Feldberg, Schluchsee. 

Comp. Map, p. 238. 

Four Days (including the following Route e). 1st. From Frei- 
burg to the Himmelreich (9 M.) a drive of l 1 ^ hr. , walk through the 
Hollenthal to the (4^2 M.) Stern Inn (p. 262), ascend the Feldberg 3 1 j 2 hrs., 
descend to Todtnau (p. 265) 2 hrs. — 2nd. Through the Wiesenthal to 
(18 M.) Schopfheim, thence to (4^2 M.) Wehr (p. 267). — 3rd. Through the 
Wehrathal to (12 M.) Todtmoos, thence to St. Blasien (p. 268) in 3 hrs. — 
•4th. To Hochenschioand (p. 268) in l 3 j-i hr. , Niedermiihle 2 l \\ hrs. , thence 
by the Albstrasse to (6 M.) Albbrucfc (p. 273). 

The broad valley of the Dreisam, ascending into the mountains 
from Freiburg, is not sufficiently attractive for the pedestrian , who 
should drive as far as the Himmelreich (9 M.). Freiburg is quitted 
b>y the Schwabenthor. To the 1. rises the Schlossberg(p. 243). Far- 
ther on, beyond the Dreisam, is a large paper-mill ; then the Cart- 
hause, formerly a monastery, now farm-buildings (to the r. lies Bad 
Littenweiler, p. 244). Then (3M.) Ebnet , with an old chateau, on 
the r. bank of the Dreisam, and (3 M.) Zarten. 

A road here diverges to the r. to Todtnau (p. 265). From ( 3 j4 M.) 
Kirchzarten the upper part of the valley of the Dreisam derives its appella- 
tion. At (3 M.) Oberried (Adler) , at the mouth of the Zastlerthal (route 
-to the Feldberg p. 263), a wood is entered; 3 M. farther the St. Wilhelms- 
thal diverges to the 1. (p. 263). l Am JYothschref (4 M.) is the culminating 
point (3306 ft.) of the road , which here quits the wood and descends 
through the upper Wiesenthal by Muggeribrunn and After steg to {o l \\ M.) 
Todtnau (p. 265). 

Before Burg (Brandenburg) is reached the tower on the Feld- 
berg is visible slightly to the r. for a short distance. The road now 
enters a more mountainous district, the beginning of which is termed 
the Himmelreich ('kingdom of heaven'), from the contrast it presents 
to the wild ravine of the Hblle ('hell') beyond. At the entrance to the 
latter the ruin of Falkenstein stands on the hill to the 1. ; on the r. 
are small iron-works. 

The *Hdllenpass, a grand defile, 3 / 4 M. in length, resembles the 
Munsterthal in the Jura in its towering and overhanging rocks. The 
wildest and most beautiful point is at the * Hirschsprung . an impos- 
ing and precipitous rock , partially overgrown with firs and under- 
wood. The road winding through the defile was constructed by the 
Austrian government in 1770, and was shortly afterwards traversed 



262 Route 46. 



FELDBERG. 



Black Forest. 



by the Archduchess Marie Antoinette , affianced to the Dauphin r 
afterwards Louis XVI. , when on her way to France. The pass also 
witnessed the celebrated retreat of Moreau , Oct. 1796 , when pur- 
sued by the Archduke Charles. 

To St, Mar gen. Before the entrance to the Hollenthal a carriage- 
road diverges to the 1. to (1 31.) Buchenbacli (on the 1. the ruined castle 
of Wisneck) , and ascends the Wagensteigthal to (5 31.) the loftily situated 
village of St. Margen (Hivsch; Krone) (2919 ft.). Picturesque route hence 
through the Wildgutachthcd (p. 260) to (7'| 2 M.) Giitenbach. St. Margen and 
Waldau (Pfaff), 6 31. to the E., are favourite summer-quarters on account, 
of their attractive and healthful situation. 

At the end of the pass the Chapel of St. Oswald looks down 
from a projecting rock. About 1 M. farther is the *Sternen-Wirths- 
haus (2854 ft.) (R. 48, B. 24, A. 12 kr.), with a post-office, chapel, 
and extensive farm-buildings. The neighbouring Ravenna-Schlucht 
is a rocky ravine with a fine cascade , rendered accessible by 
paths. 

The road from the Stern Inn to St. Blasien, which ascends hence 1 
in numerous windings (p. 264), is now quitted by the traveller who 
proposes to ascend the Feldberg (S 1 /] hrs. ; guide from the inn l 3 /^ 
ft. , not absolutely necessary, but safer as the path is somewhat 
intricate). 

To the r. beyond the inn a finger-post indicates the path to the Feld- 
berg. Cross the brook and (5 min., finger-post) ascend a broad and steep 
path through wood for ^4 hr. ^ then ascend gradually across the rich 
meadows belonging to the five large farms which constitute the parish of 
CHi hr.) Albersbach. At the first barn close to the path keep to the 1. :,. 
10 min. farther , to the r. in the hollow towards a saw-mill ; 10 min. , r. 
through a gate ^ 3 min., proceed straight towards the Gaschpels Hof, avoid- 
ing the path to the r. 5 ^4 hr., again enter the wood by a stony track in a 
straight direction, not to the 1. ; 10 min., to the 1. by the principal path. 
At a cross-way (4 min.) to the 1. (the tower on the Feldberg now soon 
becomes visible in the distance on the r.) 5 at a second cross-way (3 min.) 
follow the broad footpath, slightly to the 1. of the direction of the tower ^ 
10 min., a beautiful pine-wood is skirted 5 18 min., turn sharply to the r. 
across the open ground and (6 min.) again enter the wood (finger-post) - v 
20 min., Auf dem Rinken, a hamlet (refreshments). Here cross the broad 
track and ascend the steep forest-path to the r. $ 25 min. Baldeniceger Vieh- 
hiitte , a chalet (refreshments). On the height, 20 min. above the latter 
turn to the r. along the si pe of the mountain ; 5 min. , the broad and 
well-defined footpath is reached, which to the 1. leads in 35 min. to the 
Feldberg Inn (see below), and to the r. in *| 4 hr. to the summit, or Bochste y 
of the 

^Feldberg (4921 ft.), the highest mountain in the Black Forest r 
984 ft. lower than the Rigi-Kulm, commanding a magnificent and 
extensive view of the surrounding mountains and valleys, the Swa- 
bian Mts., Rhine Yalley, and Alps. Keys of the Friedrich-Lcuisen- 
Thurm (33 ft. high) on the top are kept at the Inn , the Todt- 
nauer , the St. Wilhelmer , and the Menzenschwander , but not at 
the Baldenweger Hiitte, an arrangement which causes great incon- 
venience to travellers from the Hollenthal. 

Retracing his steps from the tower towards theS.E., the travel- 
ler reaches the (1/2 nr Seebuck (4757 ft.) , a spot furnished with 
benches, commanding a less extensive, but more picturesque *view 



Black Forest. 



KIRCHZ ARTEN . 



46. Route. 263 



than the summit. Far below, enclosed "by precipitous pine -clad 
mountains, and fed by waterfalls, lies the small, gloomy Feldbergsee 
(see below) ; beyond it the Barenthal with its numerous chalets, 
watered by the Seebach ; in the background the W. part of the 
Titi-See Other valleys are also visible ; the background is formed by 
the Swabian mountains ; to the r. the basaltic summits of the Hoh- 
gau. About y 4 hr. below the Seebuck is situated the inn * Zum 
Feldberger Hof (4182 ft.) (R. 48, B. 30 kr.), whence the ascent to 
the tower occupies an hour. Tolerable accommodation is also afforded 
by the Todtnauer Hiitte, on the S. side, ^ nr - on ly from the tower; 
fine view, especially of the Wiesenthal (p. 265) , with the snow- 
clad Alps in the distance. 

To the Feldberg from Hinter zarten and the Titi-See (p. 264), 
4 hrs. — A new road from Hinterzarten leads by the (1 M.) Erlenbrugg, 
a group of three or four houses, into the Barenthal, which it ascends be- 
tween the scattered houses named after the valley to the (4^2 M.) Adler 
Inn (good wine). Pedestrians may take the following route direct from 
the Titi-See: by boat (9 kr. each'pers.) in 35 min. to the upper (W.) end 
of the lake, a considerable saving. Here mount a few hundred paces to 
the road which leads on the N.W. bank of the lake, through the Briider- 
halde, and ascend the valley at a ( 3 | 4 hr.) saw -mill cross the Seebach (the 
discharge of the Feldbergsee) ; then traverse the wood , passing between 
the houses of Barenthal, to the 0(2 hr.) Adler (see above). Beyond the 
inn the road continues to ascend , commanding for some distance a fine 
survey of the Barenthal and the Titi-See , and then enters beautiful pine- 
forest (the property of Prince Fiirstenberg) with very picturesque rock 
scenery. About 3 M. above the Adler a path to the r. leads to the Feld- 
bergsee (3644 ft.) (whence steep zigzag footpaths ascend to the Feldberg 
Inn in 3 j 4 hr.). The road soon quits the wood ; 1 M. Menzenschwander 
Flutter i| 4 M. Feldberg Inn (see above). 

To the Feldberg from the Schluchsee (p. 264). The new road 
by Unter and Ober-Aha and Altglashiitte unites in the Barenthal with the 
above described road from Hinterzarten. 

To the Feldberg from Oberrie d through the St. Wil helms - 
thai, 5 hrs. — On the Todtnau road, 3 M. beyond Oberried (p. 261), is a 
finger-post , indicating the way to the 1. to the picturesque , wooded and 
rocky St. Wilhelmsthal. The broad track crosses the brook four times ; 
beyond the last bridge (2 hrs.) a way-post, where the footpath to the 1. 
is to be followed; 12 min., ascend to the 1., at first gradually, afterwards in 
rapid zigzags ; 3 j 4 hr., the wood is quitted (way-post) ; again ascend to the 
1. to the (35 min.) St. Wilhelmer Htitte (refreshments, key of the Feldberg 
tower), from which the summit is attained in 20 min. more. 

To the Feldberg from Oberried through the Zas tier thai, 
3 3 |4 hrs. — The high road is quitted at Oberried, and the Zastlerthal , a 
narrower and wilder valley than the St. Wilhelmsthal, ascended. In 2 3 | 4 
hrs. Avf dem Rinken is reached , whence the summit is gained in 1 hr. 
by the route first described (p. 262). 

To the Feldberg from Todtnau, 3 3 | 4 hrs. — Easy ascent from 
Todtnau (p. 265) through the Brandenberger Thai, on the left bank of the 
Wiese. Beyond the small (2*| 4 hrs.) hamlet of Fahl, the path divides. That 
to the 1. crosses the Wiese and winds upwards to the (1 hr.) Todtnauer 
Hiitte and the (i| 2 hr.) tower; the path to the r. remains on the 1. bank, 
leading direct to the Feldberg Inn in li| 4 hr. — The route by Todtnau- 
berg (p. 265 $ guide desirable) is somewhat longer ; it unites at the Todt- 
nauer Hiitte with that above described. 

To the Feldberg from Menzenschwand, 3 hrs. — The route 
from Menzenschwand (p. 268) is also easily found. It ascends by the Alb, 
crossing it several times, and unites at the Menzenschwander Viehhiitte with 
the road from the Titisee) 



264 Route 46. 



SCHLUCHSEE. 



Black Forest. 



iFrom the Stern Inn (p. 262) the picturesque road ascends the 
Eollensteig in bold windings (the short cut to thel. not recommend- 
ed , as the beautiful retrospects from the road are thus lost) and 
reaches the top of the hill at (2 M.) Oberhbllsteig (*Weisses Rossle. 
with pension), which, as well as the village of Kirchzarten (*Adler: 
* Schuler's Pension, from 1 fl. 18 kr.), situated on a bye-road^M. to 
the S.j frequently attracts visitors in summer. At ( 1 /. 2 M.) AUenweg 
(Bar) the road divides (that to the 1. leading toNeustadt, Loffingen, 
Hiifingen, and Donaueschingen, 22y 2 M. , see p. 259). The road 
in a straight direction next leads to the (i/ 2 M.) Titi-See(2784ft.), 
a lake abounding in fish , and fed by the Seebach , the discharge of 
the Feldbergsee (p. 263). Small tavern on the bank. Route to the 
Feldberg. see p. 263. 

The Road to St. B I as i en (one-horse carr. to Schluchsee 3 fL.) 
crosses the Gutach, the outlet of the Titi-See, and, leaving the steep 
old road to Lenzkirch to the 1.. skirts the S. bank of the lake . and 
ascends the pine-clad hill in long windings , commanding beautiful 
retrospective views of the lake. At the Rothenkreuz , on the top of 
the hill, the high road to Lenzkirch diverges to the 1. (uniting with 
the old road at Muhlingen, farther on). The St. Blasien road leads 
by Falkau to (6 M.) Altglashutte (Lowe) , loftily situated (3228 ft.) 
on the E. slope of the Barhalde. On the 1. side of the road is an 
artificial reservoir. The road now descends, and at(3M.) Unter-Aha 
(Sonne) turns to the E. to the (3 M.) Schluchsee, the X. bank of 
which it skirts. The diligence diverges to the 1. from the new road 
on the bank, and ascends to (3 M.) the village of Schluchsee (2958 
ft.) (* Stern, pension from 2 fl. ; Schiff). l / 2 M. from the lake, beau- 
tifully and healthily situated in the midst of fine forest , and much 
frequented as a summer resort. The lake, 2 M. long . and 3 /4 M. 
broad, is well stocked with fish (boats for hire). 

The ^Faulenfirst , to which a shady forest-path leads from Schluch- 
see in 3 4 hr., commands a good survey of the Alps (comp. p. 268). 

The road from the village descends to the lake (where there is 
a finger-post, pointing to the road just traversed as the route to 
Lenzkirch, which travellers in the opposite direction should observe) 
and skirts its bank. Beyond Seebruck . consisting of a few scattered 
houses with an inn, it crosses the Schwarzach . the brook by which 
the lake is drained. A long circuit which the road here describes 
may be cut off by a footpath. The road now enters the Schvjarzhalde. 
a deep and romantic valley. 

From the next finger-post a footpath which effects a saving leads in a 
straight direction, by the Blasiwald-AUhutte (3936 ft.), to St. Blasien in 2 
hrs. Travellers taking this route in the reverse direction leave the road 
at "VVassmer's furniture shop in St. Blasien, and ascend to the 1. to the 
cart-road which is then followed. 

7 1 /.-) M. St. Blasien, see p. 268. 



265 



e. Wiesenthal, Wehrathal, Albthal. 

Comp. Map, p. 238, and outline of tour, p. 250. 

The valleys of the Wiese, the Wehra, and the Alb , are three of 
the finest in the Black Forest. The two latter are very imposing at 
places, and worthy of comparison with some of the most celebrated 
Alpine ravines. As most travellers visit one or other of these three 
valleys in descending from the Feldberg , the following description 
of the scenery is given in that direction. 

Wiesenthal. The source of the Wiese is on the S. slope of 
the Seebuck , not far from the Feldberger Hof. Our route follows 
its 1. bank, and passes Fahl , a hamlet near which the Rothwiese 
(rising near the Todtnauer Hiitte) forms a picturesque waterfall, 
and where the route to the Feldberg mentioned at p. 263 diverges. 
The pleasant Brandenberger Thai , enlivened with a few solitary 
habitations, is next traversed to (3 hrs. from the Feldberger Hof, 
2^2 hrs. from the Todtnauerhiitte) 

Todtnau (2129 ft.) (*Ochs, adjoining the church; Rossle: one- 
horse carr. to Schonau 1 fl. 36, Zell 3 fl. 24, Schopfheim5fL, Wehr 
7 fl., St. Blasien 5 fl. 36 kr., Todtmoos 6 fl.), an old and thriving 
little town in a picturesque situation. The road mentioned at p. 
261 leads hence to the N. to Oberried and Freiburg. On this road 
is the 1^2 M. Todtnau Waterfall, formed by the Berg erbach de- 
scending from Todtnauberg in several leaps, altogether 300 ft. in 
height. A good footpath ascends by the waterfall to Todtnauberg 
(Stern) (route to the top of the Feldberg, see p. 263) , from which 
the pedestrian may return to Todtnau by Aftersteg (p. 261 ; a circuit 
of 3 hrs.). 

The ^Wiesenthal from Todtnau to Lorrach , below which it ex- 
pands, is 27 M. in length; it is generally narrow and well wooded, 
and is most picturesque between Schonau and Zell. An open car- 
riage is recommended for this part of the route (see above). Dili- 
gence 4 times daily. 

The road leads from Todtnau, on the 1. bank of the Wiese , to 
(li/o M.) Schlechtnau and ( 3 /4 M.) Gschwdnd , where a road to the 
1. leads by Prag to St. Blasien (p. 268) , or to Todtmoos in the 
Wehrathal (p. 267). The road here crosses the Pragbach, and then 
the Wiese near ( l / 2 M.) Utzenfeld, where the Miinsterthal road (p. 
273) descends from the Wiedenereck. Then past Schbnenbuchen to 
(Y2 M.) Schonau (1778 ft.) (*Sonne) , a busy little town , prettily 
situated. Ascent of the Belchen, see p. 272. 

Beyond Schonau the road winds through picturesque rocky ra- 
vines. From ( 3 / 4 M.) Weinbach, with its extensive cotton - factory, 
a carriage-road leads W. through the Bbllenthal, by Oberbbllen, 
Neuenweg, and Oberheubronn (p. 271), to Oberweiler andMiillheim. 
From (A 1 / 2 M-) Mambach a picturesque route to the E. through the 
Angenbaeh-Thal by Rohmatt and Happach to Todtmoos (p. 267). 
The road next passes (1 1/2 M.) Atzenbach, and (3/ 4 M.) Zell (1460 



266 Route 46. 



LORRACH. 



Black Forest. 



ft. J Lowe "ini "WiesenthaT. a flourishing manufacturing place. The 
*Zeller Blauen (3519 ft.), towards the N., ascended ini 1 ahr.. com- 
mands a magnificent distant view. 

Adhere the ravine widens, half-way to Schopfheim . is the ex- 
tensive grand-ducal foundry of Hausen. the birthplace of the poet 
Hebel: the village concealed "by fruit-trees, lies on the r. bank. The 
inhabitants of the upper part of the valley are Rom. Cath. . those 
below Hausen Protestants. A Statue of Helel. the poet of the Black 
Forest, was erected in front of the church in i860. Opposite to it, 
to the r. . on the S. side of the village . is the house of the poet's 
parents, indicated by an inscription. 

Schopfheim (1*230 ft) *Pf!uo: *Drei Konige .4- 2 M.from Zell. is a 
smalltown of some importance, which carries on a considerable trade 
withBale. The Hebclshdhe. with a temple and bronze bust of the poet 
Hebel. is a pleasant spot with grounds 1 o M. from the railway sta- 
tion. — High road from Schopfheim to i"4 : o M.) Wehr in the 
Wehrathal (p. 267) : diligence by Wehi to Brennet ( p. '2731 twice 
daily in i 1 .? tit.- fare 18 kr. 

The B a i I w a y f r o m 8cho p f h e i m to Bale (in 50 min. ; 
fares 1 fl. 6. 45. 33 kr.) traverses the lower and broader part of 
the valley. The stream is employed in the irrigation of the land and 
for the supply of numerous mills and factories. To the r. nearstat. 
Haagen : on i wooded eminence, rises the extensive * Schloss Rot- 
teln. one of the largest in the Duchy, commanding a fine view, once 
the residence of the Margraves of Hochberg . afterwards that of the 
Margraves of Baden. It was taken by Bernhard of ^Veimar in 1638. 
dismantled and blown up by the French in 1678 . and finally 
restored in 1867. *Inn at Rbttlerweiler . at the foot of the castle. 
I 1 o M. from Lorrach. 

Lorrach *Hinc\. oi Post . the most important place in the val- 
ley i 7 - o M. from Schopfheim. 6 M. from Balel . contains extensive 
shawl, cloth, and other factories. (One-horse carr. to Rottlerweiler 
*2 : o- Kandern 4 A.) 

The *Tullinger Hbhe (iS45 ft.) or St. Ottilia, to the S. of Lorrach. 
commands a magnificent view of the mountains of Baden. Alsace, and 
Switzerland. Foreground a vast and fertile plain . below lie the villages 
of Riehen and Weil in the midst of orchards and vineyards. From the 
terrace behind the church the view is more extended ; the garden of the 
Mnn commands the finest prospect to the W. After a victory over the 
Germans near this spot , the French General Villars was elevated to the 
dignity of marshal. 

Beyond stat. Stetten the line enters the Swiss canton of Bale. 
Stat. Riehen possesses a Deaf and Dumb Institution and a training 
school for Protestant sisters of charity. The church of St. Chrischona. 
formerly a resort of pilgrims, now a Protestant missionary institution, 
on a wooded hill to the 1.. commands a prospect similar to that from 
the Tullinger Hohe. The line approaches Bale (p. 246) between a 
succession of pretty villas. 



Black Forest. 



WEHRATHAL. 



46. Route. 267 



Wehr a thai. The traveller who desires to descend from the 
Feldberg to the Rhine by the Wehrathal should proceed to Gschwand 
(p. 265), ascend the course of the Prdgbach towards the E. by the 
road leading through the Bernau to St. Blasien (comp. p. 268), 
and before (3 M.) Brag (Hirsch) is reached diverge by a steep and 
stony road to the r. to Todtmoos. Herrenschwand , situated on a 
wooded height , is left on the r. 5 then descend , the latter half of 
the way by a better road, to (6 M.) Vorder - Todtmoos (2693 ft.) 
(*Adler), a hamlet in the Wehrathal, with a loftily situated church, 
much resorted to by pilgrims from the S. portion of the Black Forest 
and from Switzerland. A variety of curious costumes may be 
observed here on Sundays and festivals. The Wehra rises on the 
Hochkopf , 3 M. to the N. of Todtmoos, and is rapidly tilled by 
numerous affluents. The route from Todtmoos to the W. through 
the Angenbachthal to Mambachlm the Wiesenthal (p. 265) will 
repay the pedestrian. 

To St. Blasien (_iO l \'z M.). The road ascends in windings to the E., 
affording fine retrospective views \ a magnificent survey of the Alps is en- 
joyed before the culminating point is attained. The descent is by Mutters- 
lehen (Hirsch),^and through the Steinachthal to St. Blasien (p. 268). 

The next village in the Wehrathal is (3M.) Todtmoos- Au (Inn), 
whence the Wehra-Strasse , an ingeniously contrived carriage - road 
constructed chiefly for the transport of timber in 1848 , descends to 
(9 M.) Wehr. It was almost entirely destroyed by an inundation in 
1850, but has been restored. This portion of the **Wehra- 
Thal is a magnificent rocky ravine, the most striking of all the val- 
leys in the Black Forest , and unsurpassed in picturesqueness and 
variety by the most famous in Switzerland. The precipitous pine- 
crowned cliffs enclosing the valley are clothed with luxuriant vege- 
tation , broken here and there by imposing masses of barren rock. 
At the bottom of the valley the rivulet dashes impetuously over the 
blocks of granite which obstruct its narrow 7 channel, frequently leav- 
ing but little space for the road. The most striking point is about 
half-way , at a bridge which carries the road to the 1. bank of the 
Wehra. On a precipitous cliff to the 1. at the outlet of the valley 
rises the ruin of Bdrenfels. 

9 M. Wehr (1207 ft.) (Krone; * Hotel Brugger) , a thriving 
manufacturing village , is commanded by the ruined castle of 
Werrach . 

In a grassy dale which opens near the N.W. houses of Wehr is 
situated the *Erdmannleinhohle , a stalactite cavern, T 1 /.? M. from 
Wehr, and V2 M. from the village of Hasel (1321 ft.) (Pflug). The 
schoolmaster (next door to the inn) keeps the key and accompanies 
visitors (fee 30 kr.). Like most other caverns of the kind it contains 
its chapel, organ , dungeon , etc. , formed by the stalactites. It is 
inferior in grandeur to those of Westphalia and of the Harz Mts. 
(see Baedekers N. Germany^ but deserves a visit. — A good road 



265 Route 46. 



ST. BLASIEN. 



Black Forest. 



leads direct from Hasel to Schopfheim (p. 266). travellers bound for 
which, need not return to Wehr. 

Beyond Oeflingen. 3 M. to the S. of Wehr. the road reaches 
stat. Brennet. on the Bale-Waldshnt railway (p. 273). 



Alb thai. Another very interesting route is that from the 
Feldberg to St. Blasien. and through the Albthal to the railway. 
From the Menzenscliwander Hutte (p. 263) the traveller descends to 
the r. to (l 1 4 hr.) Menzenschwand (Adler: Hirschj. the birthplace 
of the talented painter ^ lnterhalter . consisting of Hinter - Menzen- 
schwand [4431 ft.) and Vorder- Menzenschwand (4254 ft.). About 
6 M. farther down the Albthal (carriage-roacV) lies 

St. Blasien (2532 ft.) (*H6tel St. Blasien. withpension: Krone; . 
once celebrated for its wealthy and learned Benedictine Abbey, and 
now frequently resorted to as summer quarters owing to its healthy 
situation. The church, with a handsome dome . was built in 1786. 
after the model of the Pantheon. The abbey, secularised in 1805. 
has since served for industrial purposes. The Calvarienberg . with 
several fine views, the Tusculum waterfall, and other points in the 
environs afford pleasant walks. The Chasse of St. Blasien contains 
numerous deer, which are occasionally observed crossing the road. 

From Freiburg to St. Blasien, see R. 46. d: from Tod t moos, 
see p. 267. — From the Wiesenthal. A good road (diligence twice 
daily: one-horse carr. from Sochnau to St. Blasien 5 fl.) leads from 
Gschwand (p. 265) to (12 M.) St. Blasien by Prcig, where the road to Todt- 
moos diverges to the r. : sequestered valleys are traversed as far as the 
summit of the pass (3201 ft.) : the road then descends through the Bernau. 
a grassy valley with several hamlets, to St. Blasien. The road unites 
vrith that from Xenzenschwand at a bridge over the Albbach , 3 M. 
from St. Blasien. 

From St. Blasien to (6 M.) Immencich the valley is uninter- 
resting. The traveller is therefore strongly recommended to diverge 
from the main-road 1 M. beyond the village and ascend to the 1. by 
(2 M.) Eausem to (2 M.) Hochenschwand (3326 ft.) (*Oehs) . the 
highest village in the Duchy of Baden, where straw-plaiting is ex- 
tensively carried on. From the ^Belvedere . 5 min. from the village, 
a magnificent and extensive prospect is enjoyed, comprising the 
Algau and Torarlberg Mts., and the entire chain of the Alps. Key 
kept by the landlord of the Ochs . who also provides the traveller 
with a telescope and Keller's panorama. To regain the Albthal the 
direct footpath, descending rapidly to Immeneich . may be taken. 
The better route, however, is by a carriage-road commanding views 
of the Alps, through (2 M.) Frohnsclacand. (I 1 o M.) Tiefenhausern 
( 3 4 M. beyond the village the high road is quitted . and the road to 
the r. followed), and (1 M.) Brunnadern to (i 3 4 M.) Niedermuhle 
(Inn), a group of houses i 1 o M. beyond Immeneich. 

From this point downwards the * Albthal becomes narrower and 
wilder. The road, completed in 1859. passes between perpendicular 



Black Forest. 



BADENWEILER . 



46. Route. 269 



rocks, high above the impetuous brook, and affording occasional views 
of the grand and rocky ravine. The most imposing part of the route, 
considered by some to surpass the Wehrathal, is beyond (6 M.J Tie- 
fenstein (Krone), near which rive tunnels follow each other in rapid 
succession. Near (3 M.)Albbruck (1017 ft.) (Inn *Zum Albthal) , a 
station on the Bale-Waldshut Railway (p. 273), the valley opens 
into that of the Rhine. 

f. Badenweiler and Environs. 
BiLrgeln, Blauen, Belchen, Miinsterthal. 

Comp. Map, p. 238. 

Hotels. *Romeebad, R. 1 fl. , B. 30^ kr. , D. 1 fl. 24 kr. , A. 18 kr. 5 
*Stadt Carlsruhe , similar charges, R. 5 fl. per week. — At Oberweiler: 
^Pension Venedey (see "below), *Ochs, and Wilder Mann, all more mode- 
rate than the hotels at Badenweiler. — At Niederweiler , on the road to 
Miillheim, Lowe and Schwan, unpretending. — *Krone (unpretending) at 
Vogisheim , a village between Miillheim and Auggen, 4 M. W. of Baden- 
weiler, with which it is connected by a shady walk. 

Pensions: Dr. BiircTc, and others ; * Venedey, at Oberweiler, quiet and 
sheltered. 

Omnibus from stat. Miillheim to Badenweiler in 1 hr. (fare 30 kr.). 
Seats should be engaged immediately on leaving the train , as this is the 
only public conveyance. Walkers will reach Badenweiler almost as 
quickly, as the road ascends most of the way. 

Donkeys: to the station 40 kr., Blauen l*fl. 20 kr., Belchen 3 fl., Biir- 
geln 1 fl. 20, Kandern 1 fl. 48, Sophienruhe 18, Alte-Mann 24 kr. 

Holly walking-sticks, carved, at NolVs, in Oberweiler. 

Badenweiler, a pleasant little watering-place, patronised by up- 
wards of 3000 visitors annually, is situated on the W. spurs of the 
Black Forest, 1401 ft. above the sea, 741 ft. above the Rhine , and 
commands an extensive view of the vast plain of the Rhine as far 
as the Vosges. 

The * Cursaal contains concert, ball, and reading-rooms ; in front 
of it is a small fountain with two basreliefs of Jesus and the Sama- 
ritan woman, and Moses striking the rock. The thermal water is so 
abundant that the construction of swimming , plunge , and vapour 
baths is contemplated. Behind the Cursaal is a Cafe, where a band 
plays morning and evening. 

Adjoining the Cursaal is a small Park , on the slope of a hill 
crowned with the ruins of the Castle, which was originally built by 
the Romans to protect the baths, and destroyed by the French in 
1688. Fine prospect from the venerable, ivy-clad walls. 

The ancient * Roman Baths (keys procured at the hothouse 
on the W. side of the Cursaal, fee 12 kr.), on the N. W. side of the 
Cursaal, discovered in 1784, are probably the finest in existence, 
with the single exception of those of Caracalla at Rome Length 
106 yds., breadth 33 yds.; the walls, partitions, pavements, 
and steps are all well preserved. The larger apartments all contain 
two baths, cold (frigidaria) 33 by 20 y 2 ft. , and warm (tepidaria) 
28y 2 "by 24V2 ft- ; vapour or sweating-baths (laconica) , vestibules 



270 Route 46. 



BURGELN. 



Black Forest. 



(atria;, anointing-rooms (unctoria), &c. An inscription on an altar 
records that the baths were dedicated to 'Diana Abn6b(a)\ i. e. the 
Diana of the Abnoba. or Black Forest Mts. 

* Wa Iks. A finger-post on the Kandern road, partially concealed 
by bushes. 3 min. from the village, indicates the ascent to the 
Sophienruhe ; 2 min.. at a cross-way. continue to ascend in a straight 
direction at the [7 min.) -'Rondel' turn to the 1. : 7 min. . turn to 
the 1. again, then descend slightly to the 1. ; 3 min.. the * Sophien- 
ruhe, an open space on the outskirts of the wood, to the S.E. of 
Badenweiler. 200 ft. above the village . commanding a more pictu- 
resque view than the old castle, which with Badenweiler itself forms 
a beautiful foreground. 

On the way back. 2 min. from the Sophienruhe. a broad path 
ascends to the f 1 4 hr.) * Alte Mann, a rocky height . accessible by 
bridges and steps, about 160 ft. higher than the Sophienruhe : view 
similar, beautiful wooded foreground. 

Another pretty walk is by p/4 hr.) Schweighof . ascending the 
hill through wood (guide desirable part of the way), to the (8/4 hr.) 
ruin of * Xeuenfels . whence a delightful view of Badenweiler . the 
Black Forest, and the populous plain of the Rhine is enjoyed. The 
direct route from Badenweiler to Xeuenfels is somewhat shorter. 

A path across the bridge from the Alte Mann descends to the 
Haus Baden, formerly a miners" tavern (* 4 hr.). whence the pedes- 
trian may either return to Badenweiler (by the road. 1 M.) or con- 
tinue his walk to Biirgeln . b 1 /^ M. to the S. The following direc- 
tions sufficiently indicate the route . but to prevent possibility of 
mistake . a boy may be taken from Badenweiler (30 kr.) to the 
Sophienruhe. Alte Mann, and Biirgeln. Donkey i ft. 20 kr. 

To Biirgeln. Between the bouses of Haus-Baden a narrow path 
leads in 4 min. to the road, which passes the shaft of a gypsum mine. 
Immediately beyond it, turn to the r. : 1 2 31. farther Sehringen is reached 
(1 1 |2 M. from Badenweiler) . where the path join? the Badenweiler and 
Biirgeln road. The latter, a cart-track, leads chiefly through wood: l 1 4 
M. . an open meadow . commanding a pleasant view of the open country 
tDwards the N.W. : ! 4 31.. finger-post, indicating the direction of Biirgeln 
to the 1. : 1 2 31. . the footpath crosses the road and leads into a thick 
wood, and in 7 min. more to another finger-post, where however the 
direction must not be changed: 3 4 M.-, another finger-post; here ascend 
straight to ( 3 4 31.) the next, which indicates the way to the Blauen (2 hrs.), 
and to the r. at a sharp angle to Biirgeln ( ! 2 31.). 

*SchIoss Biirgeln (2188 ft.) (/nn. pleasant for a prolonged stay), 
was formerly a chateau of the wealthy Benedictine Abbey of 
St. Blasien (p. 268). The stag which figures in the arms of St.Bla- 
sien still serves as a weather-cock. It is beautifully situated to the 
S.j and almost at the foot, of the Blauen. commanding a magnificent 
view, resembling that from the Blauen (see below) . but less ex- 
tensive. To the E. are seen the mountains enclosing the Wiesen- 
thal (p. 2651. S.E. the snow- clad Alps from the Scheerhorn to the 
Jungfrau (see below), in front of them the Jura . in the foreground 
well -wooded heights, on the principal of which Kandern (see 



Black Forest. 



BELCHEN. 



46. Route. 271 



below) lies : farther back are Bale. Hiiningen with bridge of boats. 
Mulhausen and the Rhine-Rhone canal, glimpses of the Rhine, and 
to the W. the long chain of the Yosges. The interior of the chateau 
and church are uninteresting. 

Schliengen (p. 246), the nearest station, is 6 M. to the W. of Burgeln. 
Or the road may be taken by (3* 2 M.) Kandern (1161 ft.) (Blume; OcJis; 
beer at KilmmicK s ) , to (13 l \2 M.) Bale (one-horse carr. 6 fl.). 

The *Blauen (3832 ft.), one of the five highest points of the 
Black Forest, and the nearest to the Rhine, at the N. base of which 
Badenweiler lies, is easily ascended in 2 hrs. (donkey 1 fl. 20 kr.). 
The carriage-road, diverging to the 1. from the Kandern road at the 
back of Badenweiler, cannot be missed. About 72 nr - from the sum- 
mit a spring of excellent water is reached , past which a footpath 
also leads to the top. Other paths which appear to be short - cuts 
must be avoided. The view is not unbounded in every direction, 
and is therefore inferior to that from the Belchen ; the principal 
charm is the survey of the entire plain of the Rhine from the Kai- 
serstuhl to Bale. Distant view, see below. 

Schloss Burgeln (p. 270) may be reached in l 1 /? nr - f rom 
the summit of the Belchen. The route is indicated by finger- posts, 
but the following directions may prove serviceable. The path diver- 
ges to the 1. from the road ^4 nr - from the summit : Vohr., proceed 
in a straight direction, not to the 1. ; 20 min., leave the broad path 
and descend by the narrow path to the 1. . and immediately after- 
wards in a straight direction. Beyond this no mistake can be made. 
At a p/a hr.) cross -way the traveller perceives the chateau high 
above him. The best route from Burgeln to Badenweiler is by the 
new road, not by the path through the wood. 

The Belchen and Munsterthal require a whole day. To the sum- 
mit of the former in 5 hrs. , down to Neumiihl 2 , thence to the 
Krotzingen station (p. 245) 9 M. , a drive of l 3 /4 hr. Guide from 
Badenweiler to the Belchen desirable (1 fl. 12 kr.). Donkey 3 fl. 

From Badenweiler to the Belchen. A good road leads to the E. 
to (l T j2 M.) the village of Schweighof (Sonne), and ascends gradually at 
first, and afterwards rapidly , through forest and rock scenery , following 
the course of the rapid Klemmbach, to the (4 M.) Sirnitz, a forester's house 
(Inn) in a green dale. The broad road now ascends to the 1. and reaches 
(l 1 ^ M.) a depression where the Belchen becomes visible. Then descend; 
to the r. are the ( 3 |4 M.) huts of Ober - Heubronn. where a finger-post in- 
dicates the way to the Munsterthal : 1 4 M. farther another post indicates 
the route to the Belchen , to the 1. 5 after about 100 paces , ascend in a 
straight direction. Beyond the first height the path skirts' the wood to 
the 1. in order to reach the opposite slope , avoiding the valley by a 
long circuit. Then a pleasant walk through the wood; hr., finger-post 
Ho the Belchenllaus , ; 10 min., an open eminence with a hut: l n hr., last 
height: 25 min., summit. 

The * Belchen (4641 ft.) commands a most picturesque and un- 
interrupted survey of the surrounding valleys, especially of the at- 
tractive Munsterthal towards the N.W. . the AViesenthal to the S.. 
and the Rhine Valley stretching far into the distance to the W. In 
clear weather a magnificent distant prospect is enjoyed. Fourmoun- 



272 Route JL6. 



MUNSTERTHAL. 



Black Forest. 



tain-chains are visible : to the E. the Black Forest with its nume- 
rous peaks, W. the Tosges. S. the Jura, and the snow-clad Alps in 
the following order: S.E. the "broad Glarnisch. the Todi and double 
peak of the Scheerhorn . beyond these the Titlis ; farther S. . one 
beyond another, the Wetterhoraer, Schreckhorner. Finsteraarhorn ; 
next the Eiger . Monch. Jungfrau. Bliimlisalp . Alt els ; and finally 
to the W. the jagged Diablerets , Mont Blanc , and the Dent du 
Midi. 

Five minutes from the summit, on the S. side , stands the new 
•Belchen Blockhaus'. an inn which affords fair accommodation. 

Ascent of the B el che n fr o m S c ft 6 n a u in the "Wiesenthal. Guide 
unnecessary. A road ascends to the r. by the inn Zur Sonne (p. 265) ; 
after 10 min., turn to the r. by a cross: 20 min. Schoneberg ; 1 2 hr. farther 
the road disappears for a short distance , and here a somewhat steep 
ascent must be made to the r. in the direction of the rock, round which 
the path, soon again recognisable, winds: 1 jg hr. , at a finger-post, ascend 
to the 1. and cross a level tract: then through wood (several way-posts); 
40 min.. a spring, above which the route lies to the 1. : 20 min., the Bel- 
chenhaus (see above). 

From the Belchen to the Munsterthal. Proceed from the pole 
on the summit past a round grassy knoll to the X., and follow the boun- 
dary-stones: in 2 — 3 min. a good path is reached, winding down over 
bilberry-clad, slopes in 35 min. to the Sennhiitte in der Krinne (3670 ft.) 
(refreshments) . situated on the old road from the Munsterthal to the 
Wiesenthal. Xow leave the Sennhiitte about 100 paces to the r. , and 
descend by the stony road to the 1. through wood to the bottom of the 
valley in 50 min. Then through the valley, past an exhausted silver 
mine and a manufactory, to Neumuhl ("KKrone) in 25 min. : carriage thence 
to Krotzingen (9 31.) 3-^-4 fl. 

The Munsterthal. a picturesque . grassy valley 3 watered by the 
Xeumagen-Bach. enclosed by wooded hills, and enlivened by several 
groups of houses, is narrow at the upper end, but gradually widens. 
The scenery of the lower part will hardly repay the pedestrian. At 
the mouth of the valley, 3 M. from Krotzingen (railway stat. , p. 
'245 : omnibus several times daily) lies the ancient little town of 
Staufen (*Badischer Hof). overshadowed by the ruined Staufenburg, 
the seat of a powerful race which became extinct in 1602. The 
vineyards on the hill yield good •Burghaldef wine. The handsome 
Gothic Rathhaus. of the 16th cent. . is worthy of inspection. — 
At the hamlet of "Wasen. 3 M. from Staufen, the valley divides 
into the Vnter- Munsterthal to the r. , and the Ob er- Munsterthal 
to the 1. The above described route to the Belchen leads through 
the former. Ascending the Munsterthal , which mounts to the 
N.E.. towards the Schauinsland . the traveller passes the ancient 
monastery of St. Trudpert , and reaches the inn Am Spielweg in 
l 1 hr. A good new road ascends hence in long windings towards 
the $.. through wild and romantic scenery. After 2 M. the * Schar- 
fenstein. a precipitous rock of porphyry, crowned by the scanty re- 
mains of a robbers' castle . rises on the 1. . the finest point on the 
route. Then (3 1 M.) the culminating point of the Wiedenereck 
(3395 ft.). The road now descends in numerous windings (com- 



! 



RHEINFELDEN. 47. Route. 273 



manding a fine view of the Alps) by the village of Wieden , which 
consists of several scattered hamlets , to (4^2 M Utzenfeld in 
the Wiesenthal (p. 265). — The Krinne, mentioned above, is 
iy 2 hr. walk from the Wiedenereck. 

47. From Bale by Schaffhausen to Constance. 

Railway in 4^2 — 5 l |2 hrs.; fares to Constance 5 fl. 57, 4 fl. 3 , 2 fl. 
36 kr. Neuhausen is the station for the Falls of the Rhine. Views on 
the right. Ste amb o at from Schaffhausen to Constance in 4^2 — 5 hrs., 
returning in 3 hrs. $ scenery picturesque. 

The line traverses a fertile plain of moderate width between 
the S. spurs of the Black Forest and the valley of the Rhine, which 
is here of considerable depth. Stations Grenzach, Wyhlen. The line 
now approaches the Rhine, the bed of which is here rocky , while 
the opposite Swiss bank is precipitous and wooded. 

Stat. Rheinfelden (866 ft.) (*Scliutze; *Krone) , a Swiss town 
on the 1. bank, was in ancient times strongly fortified and repeat- 
edly besieged , and was at last taken and razed to the ground by 
the French in 1644. Since 1801 it has belonged to Switzerland. 
The stream dashes impetuously over the rocks here and forms the 
1 Hollenhaken rapids. Near the town are extensive salt-works, and 
the saltbaths attract numerous visitors (*Struve ; Hacke, at the Ba- 
den station, etc.). 

The line intersects the vineyards and gardens of Beuggen (909 
ft.), formerly a lodge of the Teutonic Order , a handsome building 
with numerous windows, used since 1817 as a Seminary for 
teachers and Reformatory for children. Brennet , the station for 
the * Wehrastrasse (see p. 268), is next reached. 

Stat. Sackingen (958 ft.) (Bad, or Lowe), a considerable town, 
possesses an old abbey-church with two towers. The abbey, subse- 
quently a nunnery, was secularised in the early part of the present 
century. Stat. Murg. 

Opposite stat. Klein- Lauffenhurg is the Swiss town of Lauffen- 
burg (Post), picturesquely placed on the 1. bank , with its ancient 
castle, below which the Rhine dashes impetuously over its narrow 
and rocky bed. These rapids have more than once been successfully 
navigated, but the experiment is of course extremely perilous. The 
eighth Lord Montagu, the last of his family, perished here in 1793, 
and by a singular coincidence his ancestral mansion of Cowdray 
House in Sussex was burned down almost on the same day , and 
has never been rebuilt. Below the cataract , of which a glimpse 
is obtained from the train , salmon are caught in considerable 
numbers. 

The line passes through a tunnel , and near stations Luttingen 
and Hauenstein crosses some lofty viaducts, occasionally approaching 
the river. Stat. Albbruck (1017 ft.) (* Zum Albthat), at the mouth 
of the *Albthal (p. 269). Stat. Dogern. 

BiEDEKiTs Rhine. 5th Edit. 18 



274 Route 47. SCHAFF H AU SEN. 



From Bfde 



Waldshut (*Rebstockj. the most important of* these small towns 
on the Rhine . is situated at a considerable height above the 
river. Swiss Railway to Turgi and Zurich, see Baedeker's 
Switzerland. 

Quitting AValdshut, the train passes through a tunnel, and skirts 
the hills to the 1. Stat. Thiengen (Krone). Near stat. Oberlauch- 
ringen the Wutacfi is crossed: to the r. on a wooded eminence, the 
castle of Kiissenberg . Stations Griessen, Erzingen, Wilchingen (first 
village in the canton of Schafihausen) . Neunkirch, Beringen . and 
Xeuhause?i (Bellevue). station for the Falls of the Rhine (see Bae- 
deker's Switzerland > . 

The visitor to the ^Falls of the Rhine crosses the railway - bridge to 
tichloss Laufen (admission i fr. each person), whence a path descends to 
the Fischetz, a wooden gallery projecting over the roaring cataract, and 
constantly bedweed by the spray. Various other points of view are also 
shown by the attendants (no gratuity). Boat to SchWsschen Worth (^view) 
30 c. \ footpath back to Xeuhausen $0 min. 

Schaffhausen (1296 ft.) (* Krone, R. 1%, B. iy 4 fr. ; Post; 
Schiff; Lowe; Riese, unpretending), the capital of the Swiss canton 
of that name , with 10.303 inhab. . contains little to detain the 
traveller. 

On the Vesenstaub promenade is a monument, erected by his 
fellow-citizens to the historian Johann v. ALullerfb. at Schafihausen 
1752, d. at Cassel 1809); the terrace affords a beautiful view of the 
Rhine and the Alps. 

Beyond Schafihausen the line turns towards the N.E. Stations 
Herblingen, Thayingen, Gottmadingen. and Singen (*Krone). Rail- 
way to Donaueschingen, see p. 260. 

About 2 M. to the K.W., on an isolated basaltic rock, rises the fortress 
of *Hohentwiel (2260 ft.) , the property of the Wurtemberg government, 
although in the Bavarian dominions . which was bravely and successfully 
defended by the Wurtemberg commandant Widerhold in' the Thirty Years' 
War. The grand ruins command a fine prospect of the Tyrolese and Swiss 
Alps as far as Mont Blanc. At the farm (refreshments), half-way up, a 
ticket (12 kr.) for the tower must be procured. 

Stat. Rickelshausen ; then Eadolphszell (Post), an ancient town, 
situated on the Untersee, with walls , gates , and handsome Gothic 
church dating from 1436. The line skirts the lake. Stations Market- 
fingen, Allensbach. and Reichenau. 

In the middle of the lake lies the island of Eeichenau, in the domi- 
nions of Baden. 33 |4 M. long, Ufa 31. wide, connected with the E. bank 
by an embankment', 3 , 4 M. in length. The Benedictine Abbey erected on 
the island was secularised in 1799. The church , consecrated as early as 
806 , contains the remains of Charles the Fat , great-grandson of Charle- 
magne, dethroned in 887. The building now serves as parish church for 
The village of Jfittehell, or Miinster (Krone). The tower and nave belong 
to the original structure. The church, once richly endowed, fell to decay 
in the 14th cent. With the exception of some relics in the sacristy . it 
now exhibits few traces of its antiquity. 

The train crosses the Rhine and stops at 

Constance (1335 ft.) (*Heeht. R. 1 fl., D. incl. W. 1 fl. 24, B. 
36.. A. 24, L. 24 kr. ; * Adler, or Post, similar charges, beer; Ba- 



to Constance. 



CONSTANCE. 



47. Route. 275 



discher Hof, Krone; Schiff), the only town belonging to Baden on 
the I: hank of the Rhine. It was a free town of the Empire , down 
to 1548, hut after the Reformation became subject to Austria. The 
population, once 40,000, is now 10,052 (1200 Prot.) only. It lies 
at the N.W. end of the Lake of Constance , at the efflux of the 
Rhine. The episcopal see, over which 87 bishops in succession held 
jurisdiction, was suppressed in 1802. Three years later , by the 
Peace of Pressburg, Constance was adjudged to Baden. 

The *Cathedral, founded in 1052, was rebuilt in its present form 
in the 16th cent. Gothic tower, with open spire , erected in 1846 
— 57; on either side a platform commanding a charming view. 

*Bas Reliefs on the Doors of the chief portal, in 20 sections, by Sim. 
Baider, 1470, represent scenes from the life of Christ. *Choir Stalls with 
grotesque sculptures, of the same date. Organ-loft, rich Renaissance, 1680. 
In the nave , sixteen paces from the principal entrance , is a large stone 
slab, a white spot on which always remains dry , even when the remain- 
der of the stone is damp. On this spot Huss is said to have stood when 
sentenced by the Council in 1415 to be burned at the stake. In the S. 
chapel , adjoining the choir, an Entombment in relief. In the N. chapel, 
Death of the Virgin, in coloured stone figures of life-size, date 1460. In the 
Treasury, missals embellished with miniatures, 1426. In the crypt on the 
E. side a Chapel of the Holy Sepulchre, with representation of the sepulchre, 
13th cent. Two still existing aisles of the ^Cloisters on the N. side afford 
an idea of the richness of the architecture. Sacristan 24 kr. $ but the S. 
door is generally open. 

The late Gothic Church of St. Stephen with its slender tower, 
of the 14th cent. , near the Cathedral , contains good carving and 
sculpture, but has been externally modernised. 

Farther S. in the same street is the i Curia Pacts', an old build- 
ing where Emp. Frederick I. concluded peace with the Lombard 
towns in 1183. Frederick VI., Burggrave of Nuremberg, was created 
Elector of Brandenburg by Emp. Sigismund in the Platz here in 
1417. 

The Wessenberg-Haus contains a collection of pictures , engrav- 
ings, and books, bequeathed to the town by the former proprietor. 
The Stadt-Kanzlei, a Renaissance building of 1593 , decorated with 
modern frescoes , contains the valuable Civic Archives , comprising 
2800 ancient charters. The old Dominican Monastery in which Huss 
was confined, on an island in the lake, is now a manufactory. The 
N. end of the island is crossed by the railway to Schaffhausen and 
Waldshut. 

The Kaufhaus by the lake, a building of 1388, contains the great 
Council Chamber where the celebrated Council held its meetings in 
1414 — 18 , restored in 1866. It is adorned with suitable modern 
frescoes (adm. 6 kr.). On the upper floor is a collection of Indian 
and Chinese curiosities, the property of the castellan (adm. 9 kr.). 

The house where Huss was arrested, the second to the r. of the 
Schnetzthor, bears his effigy in stone, 16th cent. To the W. of the 
suburb of Briihl the spot where the illustrious Reformer suffered 
martyrdom is indicated by a huge mass of rock. 

18* 



276 Route 47. 



CONSTANCE. 



Fine view from the quay. The abbey of Kreuzlingen (Pension 
Helvetia) , now a school, is on Swiss territory , 3 / 4 M. from the S. 
gate. The church contains a curious piece of wood-carving , with 
about 1000 small figures, executed during the last century. 

Steamboats on the Lake of Constance to Friedrichshafen in l^hr., 
lAndau in 2^2 hrs., Romanskom in l 1 ^, Rorschach in 2 1 l , 2 hrs. (comp. Bae- 
deker's Switzerland, or S. Germany'). Wherever the traveller lands he 
must undergo custom-house formalities, the lake being neutral. 

In the N.W. arm of the lake, termed the Ueberlinger See, lies the 
pretty island of *Mainau, once the seat of a Teutonic Lodge. Since 1853 
it has belonged to the Grand Duke of Baden, and is laid out in pleasant 
grounds. ^Tavern. One-horse carr. from Constance 7 fr. , two-horse 12 
fr. ; rowing-boat (in 1 hr.) 5 fr. and gratuity. 



INDEX. 



Aachen 4. 
Aarthal, the 146. 
Abenden 9. 
Achern 200. 
Adenau 67. 

Adolphseck,ruin 146.166. 
Adolphshohe, the 90. 160. 
Aftersteg 261. 
Agger, the 41. 
Aha 264. 
Ahbach, the 134. 
Ahr, the 64. etc. 
Ahr, Valley of the 64. 
Ahrweiler 65. 
Aix-la-Chapelle 4. 
Albbruck 269. 273. 
Albersbach 262. 
Albshausen 146. 
A lb thai 268. 
Aldegund 131. 
Alexanderschanze, the 

255. 
Alf 131. 

Alf-Bach, the 139. 
Aiken 133. 
Allensbach 274. 
Allerheiligen 254. 
Allner, castle 41. 
Alpirsbach 258. 
AlsbacherSchloss,the 170. 
Alsenz 114. 
Alsenz, the 113. 114. 
Alsheim 228. 
Altarstein, the 173. 
Alt-Breisach 244. 
Alt-Eberstein 198. 
Alte Burg (near Boppard) 

Alte Haus, the 145. 
Altena 39. 
Altenahr 36. 
Altenbamberg 114. 
Altenbaumburg, the 113. 
Altenberg, Abbey of 15. 
Altenburg, the (Ahr) 67. 
— (Moselle) 133. 
Altenessen 37. 
Altenglan 230. 



Altenhundem 39. 
Altenkirchen 41. 
Altenweg 264. 
Altglashutte 264. 
Altkirch 221. 
Altkonig, the 162. 
Alt-Munsterol 221. 
Altwied 62. 
Alt-Windeck 200. 
Alzette, the 128. 
Alzey 228. 

Amanvillers 119. 120. 
St. Amarin 222. 
St. Amarinthal, the 216. 
Ammerschwihr 215. 220. 
Am Thurm 258. 
Andel 129. 
Andernach 60. 
Andlau 210. 

Angenbachthal, the 265. 

267. 
Annen 38. 
Annweiler 235. 
Anrath 35. 
Ans 3. 

Antogast 256. 
Antoniusstein, ruins 69. 
Antweiler 67. 
Appollinariskirche,the 57 
Appenweier 201. 
Archwiller 213. 
Ardeck 146. 
Ardey-Gebirge, the 38. 
Aremberg 67. 
Arenberg 80. 
Arenfels 58. 
Ariendorf 58. 
Arnheim 12. 
Arnstein, monast. 144. 
Arnual 117. 
Arras, Burg 131. 
Ars-sur-Moselle 120. 
Arzbach 143. 
Arzheim 141. 
Arzweiler 213. 
Assenet 4. 

Assmannshausen 93. 
Asterstein, the 80. 



Atzenbach 265. 
Au 41. 251. 
Auerbach 170. 
Aulhausen 96. 
Aumenau 146. 
Auw 136. 
St. Avoid 117. 
Avricourt 213. 

Baal 35. 

Babenhausen 169. 
Bacharach 90. 
Baden 194. 
Badenscheuren 198. 
Badenweiler 269. 
Baderlei, the 143. 
Baiersbronn 252. 
Baldenweger Hiitte, the 
262. 

Balduinstein 145. 
Bale 246. 
Balkhausen 173. 
Banstein 223. 
Barbelstein 236. 
Bardenberg 34. 
Barenfels, ruins 267. 
Barenthal 263. 
— , the 263. 
Barhalde, the 267. 
Barmen 40. 
Barop 38. 
Barr 208. 
Bartenheim 222. 
Basel-Augst 247. 
Bassenheim 72. 
Batter, the 198. 
Bausenberg, the 73. 
Bavay 3. 
Beckingen 122. 
Bedburg 9. 
Beerfelden 175. 
Beilstein 132. 
Belchen, the 271. 
Belfort 221. 
Bell 71. 
Bellingen 246. 
Bendorf 63. 
Benfeld 217. 



27S 



INDEX. 



Bennhau=en 114. 
Benningen 117. '224. 
Bennweier 218. 
Benrath 15. 
Bensberg. castle 43. 
Benslieim 171. 
Benzebene. the 259. 
Bergerbach. The 265. 
Bergstrasse, the 170. 
Bergzabern 236. 
Beringen 274. 
Bermersbach 251 
Bernau. tbe 265. 
Berncs.E T el 130. 
Berneck 258. 
Bertrich 131. 
Besenfeld 252. 
Besselich 64. 
Bessungen 167. 
Bettemburg 120. 
BeTTenfeld~140. 
Bettingen 137. 
Betzdorf 39. 4i. 
Beuel 45. 53. 
Beuggen 273. 
Beul 65. 
Beuren 200. 
Beurig 123. 
BeuTisr. the 198. 
Bexbach 231. 
Biberach 257. 
Bickenbach 170. 
Bickensohl 244. 
Biebrich 100. 
Bildstock Tunnel.the 116. 
Bingen 94. 
Binierbriick 94. 108. 
Binger Loch. The 93. 
Binsert 113. 

Birgeler Kopf. The 56. 109. 
Birkenau 174. 
Birkenfeld 116. 
Birkenkopf. the 19& 
Birresborn 135. 
BischofiYneim 107. 155. 
169. 

Bischofstein 133. 
Bisehweilei 222. 
Bitburg 136. 
Bitsch 223. 
Bitschweiler 222. 
Black Forest, The 250. 
Blainville 213. 
Blankenberg 41. 
Blankenheini 134. 
Blankenstein 38. 
St. Bla=ien 368. 
Blasiwald-Althutte 264. 
Blauen. the 271. 
Bleckhausen 140. 
Bleidenstadt 167. 
Blens 9. 
Blevbach 260. 



iBlies. the 223. 
'Blochereck. The 254. 
jBliicherthal. The 91. 
Bludenberg. The 218. 
Bochum 39.' 
! B«:''ckelheini. ruins 114. 
|Bockenheini 155. 
iBodendorf 64. 
jBodenheim 229. 
(Bodenthal 93. 236. 
jBodingen 41. 
'Bohl 225. 229. 
BollenThal. The 265. 
Bollvreiler 220. 
Boinbogen 141. 
.Bonanies 42. 
,Bonn 43. 
Boos 114. 

jBoosenburg.* the 97. 
Boppard S4. 
Borcette 8. 
Bornhofen 85. 
iBos, the 99. 
Bouss 122. 
Boyneburg 113. 
Brandenberger Thai. The 

263. 265. 
Braubaeh 83. 
Brauneberg. the 129. 
Braunfels 146. 
Braunsberg. the 62. 
Brauweiler 10. 
Brege. the 260. 
Breiberg. The 52. 
Breisacti 244. 
Breisgau. the 240. 
Breisig 59. 

Breitbacher Kreuz.the 52. 
Breitenbach 211. 216. 
Bremm 132. 
— , the Goldene 117. 
Brend. the 260. 
Brennende Berg, the 116. 
BrenneT 273. 
Breusch. the 207. 
Brev 83.' 
Briedel 131. 
Briedern 132. 
Brigach. the 259. 
BrigiTtenschloss. the 261. 
Briglirain. The 260. 
Brodenbach 13S. 
Broel. the 41. 
Brohl 59. 

Brohlthal. the 68. 
Bromserburg. The 97 
BroThers, the 85. 
Bruchhof 56. 
Bruchnriilbach 230. 
Bruchsal 188. 
Bruchweiler 235. 
Brudeldreis. the 135. 
Bruderhalde. the 263. 



Bruhl 110. 

Brunhildenstein, the 162. 

Brunnadern 268. 
. Brunnenburg 14.5. 

Brussels 1. 

Brottig 132. 
j Bruville 120. 
; Bubenhauser Hohe. the 
165. 

Buchenbach 262. 
jBuchholz 85. 139. 

Budenheim 100. 
, Buggingen 245. 
' Buhl 200. 221. 

Buhlbach 252. 
' Buhlerthal. the 200. 251. 
iBullav 131. 
iBunte Kuh. the 66. 
'Burbach 41. 

Burbach. the 256. 

Burg 261. 

Burgbrohl 72. 
i Burgeln 270. 
; Burgen 133. 
; Burresheim 71. 

E -r-=cheid 8. 

Bussang, the Col de 217. 

BiiTTensTein Falls. the 255. 

Biuzbach 42. 

j 

: Ceecilienberg. the 197. 
j Calcar 24. 
Calcum 13. 
i Call 134. 
■ Calmbach 238. 
i Calw 238. 

Carnillenberg. the 72. 

Camp 85. 

Capellen 81. 

Carden 132. 

Carlsberg. castle 231. 
' Carlsburg. chateau 91. 
I Carlshalle 112. 

Carlshohe 8. 

Carlsruhe 189. 

Casselburg. the 135. 

Castel (near Mavence) 
\ 102. 156. 

— (near Saarburg) 122. 
St. Catharine. Chapel of 

244. 
Caub 89. 
Cernav 222. 
Champ du Feu 211. 
Champignon, the 171. 
Chatel St - Germain 119. 
Chatenois 217. 
Chaudfontaine 3. 
Chene'e 3. 
Chevremont 221. 
St. Chrischona 266. 
Christophsfoal 252. 
Clarenthal 160. 



INDEX. 



279 



Clausen 138. 
Clef, the 122. 
Clemenskirche, the 93. 
Clervaux 129. 
Cleve 33. 

Clever Berg, the 33. 
Clotten 132. 
Cliisserath 129. 
Cobern 133. 
Coblenz 73. 
Cochem 132. 
Colmar 218. 
Cologne 15. 

St. Andreas 30. 
*Apostles' Ghurch 28. 

Archiepisc. Museum 23. 

— Palace 30. 

Arresthaus 30. 

Arsenal 25. 

Bayenthurm 31. 
**Cathedral 19. 

St, Csecilia 28. 

Cemetery 31. 

Courts of Justice 25. 

St. Cunibert 31. 

Exchange 28. 

Flora Garden 31. 

Fortifications 31. 
*St. Gereon 29. 

Gewerbe-Schule 29. 

Governm. Buildings 25. 
*Gross St. Martin 26. 
*Giirzenich, the 27. 

Harbour 31. 

Hochstrasse 26. 

Hospital 28. 

Jesuits' Church 30. 
*St. Maria im Capitol 27. 

Mariensaule 30. 

Mauritius Church 29. 

Minoritenkirche 25. 
*Museum 24. 

Neumarkt 28. 

St. Pantaleon\s 29. 

St. Peter's 28. 
*Rathhaus 26. 

Roman Tower 25. 

Rubens's House 28. 

St. Severing 28. 

Synagogue 26. 

Templars' 1 Lodge 28. 

Theatres 16. 

Town Garden 31. 

Town Wall 31. 

Trinity Church 28. 

St. Ursula 30. 
*Zoolog. Garden 31. 
Cond 132. 
Constance 274. 
Conz 123. 
Cordell 136. 
Cornelimiinster 8. 
Corny 119. 



Corsika 175. 
Courcelles 117. 
Cramberg Tunnel, the 
145. 

Cranenburg 34. 
Crefeld 33. 
Croff 130. 

Ste. Croix-aux-Mines 217, 
Cronberg 162. 
Croneburg 113. 
Cronthal 162. 
Cues 129. 
Curve 101. 156. 
Cusel 230. 

Dabo 212. 

Dachsbusch, the 68. 
Dachsenhausen 83. 
Dachskopf, the 83. 
Dagsburg 212. 
Dahn 235. 
Dammerkirck 211. 
Dannemarie 221. 
Dannenfels 114. 
Danube, the 259. 
Daren, Lac de 215. 
Darmstadt 167. 
Dattenberg 58. 
Daun 138. 

Dauner Lei, the 138. 
Dausenau 144. 
Dechenhohle, the 39. 
Deidesheim 233. 
Densborn 136. 
Denzlingen 239. 261. 
Dernau 66. 
Detzen 129. 
Deurenburg, ruin 86. 
Deutz 31. 

Devant-les-Ponts 120. 
Devil's Ladder, the 92. 
Dhaun 115. 
Dhiin, the 15. 
Dieblich 133. 
Diedenbere;en 156. 
Diedenhofen 120. 
Diedesfeld 234. 
Diefelder Stein, the 72. 
Diekirch 128. 
Dielkirchen 114. 
Diemerstein 230. 
Dietenmuhle, the 158. 
Dietkirchen 146. 
Dietz 145. 
Dieulouard 121. 
Dill, the 41. 
Dillenburg 41. 
Dillingen 122. 
Dilsberg, castle 182. 
Dinglingen 239. 
Dinkholder Brunnen 84. 
Dinslaken 13. 
Dissibodenberg 114. 



Distelbach 91. 
Dobel, the 237. 
Dockweiler 137. 
Dogern 273. 
Dolhain 4. 
Dombruch, the 49. 
Donaueschingen 259. 
Donnersberg, the 114. 
Dormagen 32. 
Dornach 221. 
Dornburg, Mt. 146. 
Dornhan 258. 
Dornstetten 252. 
Dortmund 37. 
Dottendorfer Hohe, the 
47. 

Drachenfels, castle 49. 
Dreien-Egisheim 220. 
Drei- Furstenstein, the 

253. 
Dreis 134. 

Dreisam, the 239. 261. 
Dreiser Weiher, the 134. 
Dreistein, ruin 210. 
Dreven 35. 
Dreysen 114. 
Driebergen 12. 
Dromm, the 174. 
Duisburg 13. 36. 
Diimpelfeld 67. 
Diiren 9. 
Diirkheim 233. 
Durlach 189. 
Dusemond 129. 
Dusseldorf 13. 
Dusselthal 15. 
Dutenhofen 42. 
Duttweiler 116. 
Dyck. Schloss 35. 
Dyle/the 2. 

Eberbach (Rheingaul) 99. 
— (Odenwald) 175. 
Ebernburg, the 113. 
Ebersheim 217. 
Eberstadt 170. 
Ebersteinburg 198. 
Ebersteinschloss, the 199. 
Ebnet 261. 
Eckfeld 139. 
Eckle, the 253. 
Edelfrauengrab, the 254. 
Edenkoben 225. 
Edesheim 225. 
Ediger 132. 
Efringen 246. 
Egisheim 220. 
Ehlenbogenthal, the 258. 
Ehn, the 209. 
Ehrang 129. 
Ehrenbreitstein 79. 
Ehrenburg [Moselle] 133. 
Ehrenfels 93. 



280 



INDEX. 



Ehrenthal 86. 
Ehringshausen 41. 
Eibingen 98. 
Eicli 71. 
Eichbere 99. 
Eifel, the 137. 
Eimeldingen 246. 
Eineburg, the 4. 
Eisenberg 233. 
Eisenschmidt 140. 
Eiserne Hand, the 72, 
Eitorf 41. 
Elberfeld 40. 
Elisenhohe. the 40. 
Eller 132. 
Elsasshausen 224. 
Elsass-Zabern 211. 
Elsenz, the 182. 
Elten 12. 34. 
Eltville 99. 
Eltz, Schloss 132. 
— . the 132. 
Elz, the 239. 
Elzach 261. 
Elzthal, the 261. 
Emberuie'nil 213. 
Emmaburg, the 4. 8. 
Emmendingen 239. 
Emmerich 12. 
Empel 13. 
Ems 142. 
Endenich 47. 
Endingen 244. 
Engeholl, the 89. 
Eneeln 72. 

Engelskanzel, the 199. 
Eneen 260. 
Engers 62. 
Engersgau, the 62. 
Enkenbach 114. 
Enkirch 130. 
Ennepe, the 39. 
Ennert,' the 54. 
Ensch 129. 
Ensdorf 122, 
Ensival 4. 
Enz, the 237. 
Enzklosterle 2q2. 
Eppstein 161. 
Erbach [Rheingau] 99. 
— [Odenwald] 175. 
Erden 130. 
Erdenburg, the 43. 
Erdmannleinhohle , the 
267. 

Erensberg. the 135. 
Erft, the 9. 134. 
Erfweiler 235. 
Erkelenz 35. 
Erkrath 40. 
Erlenbach 174. 
Erlenbad, the 201. 
Erlenbrugg 263. 



lErlenhof, the 212. 
'Erpel 57. 

Erpeler Lei, the 57. 
Erst em 217. 
Erzingen 2(4. 
Erzkasten, the 243. 
Eschbach 234. 
Eschhofen 146. 
Eschweiler 9. 
Esemael 2. 
Essen 37. 
Essingen 137. 
Ettelbriick 128. 
Ettenheim 239. 
jEttlingen 193. 
Ettringen 71. 
Ettringer-Bellenbere;. the 
71. 

Eulsbach 174. 
Euskirchen 134. 
Evach, the 237. 
Eyach-Miihl 237. 

Fachbach 141. 
Fachingen 145. 
Fahl 263. 265. 
Fahr 60. 
Fahrbach 174. 
Falkau 264. 
Falkenberg 117. 
Falkenburg 92. 
Falkenlei, the 131. 
Falkenlust 110. 
Falkenstein (Hollenthal) 
261. 

— (Taunns) 161. 

— (near Herrenalb) 237. 
Farinasruhe 53. 
Farschweiler 224. 
Faulenfirst. the 264. 
Favorite, the 200. 
Fecht, the 219. 
Fegersheim 217. 
Feldberg, the (Tannus) 

161. 

— (Black Forest) 262. 
Feldkirche, the 60. 
Felleringen 217. 
Felsberg, the [Eifel] 138. 

— [Odenwald] 173. 
Felsenmeer, the 173. 
Fentange 120. 
Fetzberg 42. 
Filsen 84. 
Finnentrop 39. 
Finstingen 213. 
Finthen 105. 
Fischbach (Xahe Valley) 

115. 

— (Nassau) 161. 
Fischez, the 274. 
Flacht 146. 

Fleckertshohe, the 85. 



Fleckenstein 236. 
Fliessen 136. 
Florsheim 156. 
Forbach 117. 251. 
Formerich, the 138. 
Fornich 59. 
Forst 233. 
Forstberg, the 71. 
Fraipont, castle 3. 
Frankenburg, the 8. 213. 
| Frankenstein (Odenwald) 
170. 

— (Palatinate) 230. 
;Frankenthal 226. 
! Frankfort 147. 
I Anlagen 148. 
! *Ariadneum 152. 

Borse 150. 

Bridge 151. 

Biirgerverein 153. 

St. Catherine's Church 
152. 

Cathedral 151. 
Cemetery 153. 
Dom 151. 

Exhibition of Art 149. 
*Goethe\s Monument 149 . 

— House 149. 
^Gutenberg's Monu- 
men 148. 

Hauptwache 152. 

Hessian Monument 152. 

Hochstift 149. 

Judengasse 152. 

St. Leonard's 150. 

Library 151. 

Lunatic Asylum 153. 

Nicolaikirche 150. 

Palm Garden 155. 

St. Paul's church 150. 

Picture Gallery, Muni- 
cipal 150. 
*R6mer 149. 

Saalbau 153. 

Saalhof 150. 

Schiller's Monument 
152. 

Senckenberg Society 
153. 

*Stadel Art Institutel53. 
Synagogue 152. 

*Zeil 152. 

Zoolog. Garden 155. 
Frauenalb 237. 
Frauenstein 100. 
Fraulautern 122. 
Freiburg 240. 
Freiersbach 255. 
Freiersthal, the 255. 
Fremersberg, the 198. 
Frenz, chateau 10. 
Frescati 119. 
Freudenburg, castle 122. 



INDEX. 



281 



Freudenstadt 252. 
Friedberg 42. 
Friedrichsberg, the 63. 
Friedrichsfeld 172. 
Friedrichsstein 60. 
Friedrichsthal 252. 
Friedrich-Wilhelms - 

Hutte 53. 
Friesenheim 238. 
Frobnscbwand 268. 
Froensburg 236. 
Froschweiler 224. 
Frouard 121. 
Friicht 144. 
Fiillocbbach, the 210. 
Fiirstenberg, ruin 91. 
Fiirstenlager, the 170. 
Fiirth 174. 
Furtwangen 260. 
Fustenburg, ruin 91. 

Gaggenau 193. 
St. Gall 212. 
Galz, the 220. 
Gammelsbacher Thai, the 
175. 

Gans, the 112. 
Gansehals, the 72. 
Gaulsheim 97. 
Gausbach 251. 
Gazon de Fete 215. 
Gebenheim 222. 
Gebweiler 220. 
Gebweiler Belchen, the 

222. 
Gees 135. 

Geiersburg, the 233. 
Geilenkirchen 35. 
Geilnau 145. 
Geisbach 251. 
Geisberg, the 52. 181. 
— (Alsace) 224. 
Geisenberg 221. 
Geisenheim 97. 
Geisingen 260. 
Geispolsheim 217. 
Geldern 33. 
Gemiinden 139. 
Gengenbach 257. 
St. Genovefa, Church of 
72. 

St. Georgen 245. 259. 
Georgenborn 166. 
St. Germanshof 236. 
Germersheim 188. 
Gernsbach 199. 
Gernsheim 169. 
Geroldsau 197. 
Geroldseck 212. 
Gerolstein 92. 
Gerolstein 135. 
Gerresheim 40. 
Gersprenz 175. 



Geul, the 4. 8. 
Gevelsberg 39. 
Gewirre, the 88. 
Giessen 42. 
Gillenfeld 139. 
Girbaden 209. 
Girsberg 218. 
Gladbach, Bergisch 15. 
— , Munch en 35. 
Glan, the 115. 230. 
Glaswaldsee, the 256. 
Gleiberg 42. 
Gleisweiler 225. 
St. Goar 86. 
St. Goarshausen 87. 
Goch 33. 
Godenhaus 58. 
Godesberg 109. 
Goldbach 222. 
Goldenfels, castle 91. 
Gollheim 233. 
Gondorf 133. 
Gonnersdorf 73. 
Goersdorf 224. 236. 
Gorxheim 171. 
Gorze 119. 
Gottenheim 244. 
Gottmadingen 274. 
Gottsau 189. 

Gottschlagthal , the 254. 
Gouda 12. 
Graach 130. 
Graben-Neudorf 184. 
Grafenberg, the 100. 
Grafenwerth, island 50. 
Grafinburg, the 130. 
Grand Ventron, the 216. 
Graue Stein, the 166. 
Graupenwerth, island 43. 
Grau-Rheindorf 43. 
Gravelotte 120. 
Greifenstein 212. 
Grendelbruch 209. 
Grenzach 273. 
Grethen 232. 
Grevenbriick 39. 
Grevenhausen 230. 
Gnesbach 255. 
Griessen 274. 
Griessweiler 209. 
Grindenbach, the 255. 
Grobach, the 197. 
Groesbeck 34. 
Grossenbaum 13. 
Grossgerau 169. 
Gross-Litgen 141. 
Gross-Sachsen 171. 
Grumbach 170. 
Grund 106. 
Grime, the 39. 
Griinstadt 233. 
Griirmannshohle, the 39. 
Gschwand 265. 267. 



Guebwiller , Ballon de 
222. 

Giildenbach, the 91. 
Giils 133. 

Gundershofen 223. 
Giinsbach 220. 
Gunstett 224. 
Guntersblum 228. 
Giinthersthal, the 243. 
Gunzenbachthal, the 197. 
Gustavsburg 169. 
Gutach 258. 
— , river 258. 
Giitenbach 260. 
Gutenfels, castle 39. 

Haagen 266. 
Haan 40. 

Haanenburg, the 53. 
Haardt 231. 
Haardt Mts., the 231. 
Haberacker 212. 
Habsheim 222. 
Hachimette 215. 
Hadamar 146. 
Hagelschloss 210. 
Hagen 39. 
Hagenau 223. 
Hagenbriicke, the 254. 
Hagendingen 120. 
Hager Hof, the 52. 
Hague, the 11. 
Hahn 167. 

Hahnebach, the 115. 
Hahnhof, the 61. 
Hahnstatten 146. 
Haiger 41. 
Hain 72. 
Halbmeil 258. 
Hallgarten 99. 
Haltingen 246. 
Hammerstein 59. 
Handschuchsheim 172. 
Hanweiler 223. 
Happach 265. 
Harmersb achthal , the21 1 . 

255. 257. 
Hartenburg, the 232. 
Hartjesberg, the 12. 
Hasebuhl, the 233. 
Hasel 267. 

Haselbach Valley, the 88. 
Haslach, the 208. 
Haslichhofe, the 199. 
Haspe 39. 
Hasselt 3. 
Hasslach 257. 
Hassloch 225. 229. 
Hattenheim 99. 
Hattersheim 155. 161. 
Hatzenport 133. 
Hauenstein (Palatinate) 
235. 



282 



INDEX. 



Hauenstein (Baden) 273, 
Hauptstuhl 230. 
Haus Baden 270. 
Hausach 257. 
Hansen (Baden) 266. 
— . iRoer Valley] 9. 
—'. r^assanj 92." 
— . (Palatinate 232. 
Hausern 268. 
Hecklinaen 239. 
Heddesdotf 61. 
Heidburg, the 257. 
Heidekamm. the 53. 
Heidelberg: 176. 
Heidenbad. the 216. 
Heidenberg. the 157. 
Heidenniauer . the 157.1 
232. 

Heidenoord 12. 
Heidesheim 107. 
Heilbrunnen. the 69. 
Heiligenberg, the 1S2. 1 
— . chateau 172. 
Heiligenstein 210. 
Heilig-Kreuz 217. 
Heiligkreuzsteinack 175. 
Heimbach (Roer Val- 
ley) 9. 

— (near Engers) 63. 

— Q7ahe) 116. 
Heirnburg. ruin 92. 
Heimersheim 65. 
Heisterbach 51. 
Heisterbacherrott 51. 
Heitersheim 245. 
Heller, the 41. 
Hernmerich. the 48. 
Hemmersbach 10. 
Hemrnesseni 64. 
Hernminsen 213. 
Hemsbach 171. 
Hengebach 9. 
Hennef 41. 
Heppenheim 171. 
Heppingen 65. 
Herbesthal 4. 
Herbolzheim 239. 
Herblingen 274, 
Herborn 41. 
Herchenberg 73. 
Herdecke 38. 
Herdorf 41. 
Hergenrad 4. 
Hericourt 221. 
Herlisheim 220. 
Hernsheim 228. 
Herny 117. 
Herrenalb 237. 
Herrenberg. the 216. 
Herrenschwand 267. 
Herrenwies 251. 
Herschwiesen 85. 
Herzogenrath 34. 



Hesbaye. the 3. 
Hettingen 120. 
Hickengrnnd 41. 
Hillesheim 134. 
Hitpert-an 251. 
Himmelreich. the 261. 
Hinter-Langenbach 253. 
St. Hippolvte 213. 
Hirsau 238". 
Hir-chhorn 176. 
Hirschsprung, the 261, 
Hirschrhal 236. 
Hirzenach 86. 
Hochburg, ruin 239. 
Hochdahl 40, 
H o c h e n s c h w a n d 268. 
Hochfeld 33. 
— . the 211. 
Hochheim 156. 
Hochkopf. the 267. 
Hochkreuz. the 109. 
Hochsimmer. the 71. 
Hochspeyer 230. 
Hocbst 155. 

Hochstatter Thai, the 
171. 

Hochstein. the 71. 
Hochwald. the 9. 
Hockenheini 184. 
Hofen 233. 
Hoffen 224. 
Hofheim 161. 
Hofheimer Chapel, the 
156. 

Hofstetten 257. 261. 
Hoh-Barr 212. 
Hohe-Acht. the 67. 
Hohe Kandel, the 239. 
261. 

Hohe Lei. the 72. 
Hohenbnden. castle 198. 
Hoheneck. the 216. 
Hohen-Egi^heim 220. 
Hohenfels 137. 146. 
Hohengeroldseck 257. 
Hohen-Konissburg 214. 
Hohenlandsberg 220. 
Hohen-Rappoltstein 213. 
Hohenroder Schh>s-. the 
201. 

H-henstein. the 173. 
— . ruin, castle 146. 166. 
Hohen-Syburg 39. 
Hohentwiel. the 274. 
Hohe Veen, the 8. 
Hohe Warzel. the 167. 
Hohlandsberg 220. 
Hohlochthurm. the 238. 
Hohneck. ruin 92. 
Hohr 63. 
Hobwald 211. 
Hollenhaken. the 273. 
Hollenthal. the 261. 



Holzwalder Hohe . the 

256. 
Homberg 35. 
Homburg. Baths 162. 

— (Lorraine) 1 1 i . 

— (PalaHnate) 130. 
Honnef 52. 53. 
Honningen 59. 
Hontheini 139. 
Horb 252. 
Horchheim 81. 
Hordt 222. 
Homberg 258. 
Horngraben. the 140. 
Horni-srinde. the 253. 
Horrem 10. 32. 
Hubbad. the 200. 

St. Hubert 120. 
Hueb. auf der 212, 
Hiickingen 120. 
Hugstein 221. 
Hugstetten 244. 
Hiihnerberg. the 88. 
Hummelsberg. the 58. 
Hummerich. the Plaidter 
62. 

Hunaweier 214. 
Hiiningen 222. 246. 
Hunsbach 224. 
Hussern 220. 
Hiitteberg. the 68. 
Huttenthal. the 113. 
Hiittingen 136. 
Hutzenbach 252. 

Idar 116. 

Idarbach. the 116. 
Iffezheim 194. 
Igel 127. 
Ihrinsen 244, 
St. ilgen 188. 
Ilk the 202. 
Illenau 201. 
Illfurth 221. 
Immendingen 260. 
Immeneich 268. 
Inde. the 8. 
Ingelheim 107. 
Insrelheimer An, the 101. 
Irlich 60. 

Isenachthal. the 232. 
Isenhurg, castle (Alsace) 
220. 

— . — (Savn Vallev) 63. 
Lerlohn 39. 
Issel J29. 

Isteiner Klotz. the 246. 

St. Jacob 249. 
Jacobsberger Hof, the 84. 
St. Johann 117. 
Johannesberg (>'ahe Val- 
ley) 115, 



INDEX. 



283 



Johannisberg, Schloss 98. 
— im Grund 98. 
Jolianniskirclie, the 81. 
Jo uy-aux- Arches 120. 
Jugenheim 172. 
Jlinkerath 134. 

Kabel 39. 
Kaisersberg 214. 
— , the 38. 58. 
Kaiserslautern 230. 
Kaiserstrasse, the 114. 
Kaiserstuhl, the 244. 
Kaiserswerth 15. 
Kalkofen 145. 
Kalmit, the 225. 
Kalscheuren 110. 
Kalsmunt, ruin 41. 
Kaltebach 235. 
Kaltenborn 67. 
Kaltenbronn 238. 
Kaltenengers 62. 
Kambacher Miihle, the 9. 
KammerbergerMuhle,the 
92. 

Kandel 193. 
Kandel, the Hohe 261. 
Kander, the 246. 
Kandern 271. 
Kappel 244. 254. 
Kappeler Thai, the 243. 
254. 

Kappel-Windeck 200. 
Karthause, the 77. 
Kasbach 57. 

Kaskeller (near Bertrich) 
131. 

Katenes 133. * 
Katz, the, ruin 87. 
Katzenbuckel, the 175. 
Katzenloch, the 116. 
Kauzenberg, the 112. 
Kehl 201. 
Kelberg, the 131. 
Kelsterbach 155. 
Kemmenau 143. 
Kempen 33. 
Kempenich 67. 
Kempten 97. 
Kentheim 238. 
Kenzingen 239. 
Kerpen 134. 
Kesselheim 63. 
Kessenich 47. 
Kesten 129. 
Kestenholz 217. 
Kestert 86. 163. 
Kevelaer 33. 
Kiedrich 100. 
Kilpenstrasse, the 260. 
Kindel 130. 
Kinheim 130. 
Kintzheim 213. 218, 



Kinzig, the 201. 238. etc. 
Kippenheim 239. 
Kirchweiler 137. 
Kirchzarten 264. 
Kirn 115. 

Kirneckthal, the 208. 
Kirsch 129. 
Kirschhausen 174. 
Kislau 188. 
Klein-Basel 246. 
Klein-Blittersdorf 224. 
Kleinenbruch 35. 
Kleinkems 241. 
Klein -Lauffenburg 273. 
Klemmbach, the 271. 
Klingel, chapel 199. 
Klingenthal 209. 
Klopp, the 94. 
Klosterrath 34. 
Kniebis, the 255. 
Kniebis Baths, the 256. 
Knielingen 193. 
Knoden 174. 
Knoringen 225. 
Kogenheim 217. 
Kohlscheid 34. 
Kolmbach 173. 
Konig 170. 
Konig, Mt, 131. 
Konigsbach 229. 
Konigs-Born, the 105. 
Konigsdorf 10. 
Konigshofen 201. 217. 
Konigssteele 37. 
Konigsstuhl (near Hei- 
delberg) 181. 

— (near Rhense) 82. 
Konigstein (Taunus) 161. 
Konigswald, the 216. 
Konigswart 252. 
Konigswinter 48. 55. 
Kork 201. 

Korretsberg, the 71. 
Kowerich 129. 
Krahnenberg, the 108. 
Kranichstein 169. 
Kreuzau 9. 

Krenzberg (Ahr Valley) 
67. 

— (near Bonn) 47. 
Kreuzcapelle , the (Mo- 
selle) 132. 

Kreuzlingen 276. 
Kreuznach 110. 
Kreuzthal 39. 
Krinne, the 272. 
Krippe 58. 
Kronweiler 116. 
Kropsburg, the 225. 
Krotzingen 245. 
Kruft 71. 

Krufter Ofen, the 70. 
Kriith 217. 



Kuhbach 257. 
Kiihkopf, the 78. 
Kiihr 133. 

Kunzenhiitte, the 197. 
Kuppenheim 193. 
Kiippersteg 15. 
Kiissenberg 274. 
Ktitzenhausen 224. 
Kybfelsen, the 243. 
Kyll, the 134. 135. 140. 
Kyllburg 136. 
Kyrburg, ruin 115. 

Laach, Abbey of 69. 

— (Ahr Valley) 66. 
Laacher See, the 70. 
Lac Blanc, the 215. 

— Noir, the 215. 
Ladenburg 171. 

Lahn , the 142. 143. etc. 
Lahneck 82. 
Lahr 239. 

St. Lambrecht 230. 
Landau 225. 
Landen 3. 
St. Landolin 239. 
Landsberg, the 171. 
— , ruin 210. 
Landsberg, ruin (Alsace) 
210. 

Landshut , castle (Mo- 
selle) 130. 

Landskron, castle (Palat.) 
229. 

— , the (Ahr Vallev) 65. 
Landstuhl 230. 
Langemeil 114. 
Langenaii, castle 144. 
Langenbach 253. 
Langenbrand 251. 
Langenbriicken 188. 
Langendreer 39. 
Langenfeld 15. 
Langenlonsheini 110. 
Langen-Schwalbach 166. 
Langenseifen 92. 
Langensulzbach 224. 
Langenthal 175. 
Langerwehe 9. 
La Rochette 3. 
Laubach 81. 
Laubenhain 209 
Laubenheim 229. 
Lauchthal, the 220. 
Lauf 201. 

Laufen, Schloss 274. 
LaufYenburg 273. 
Laukenmiihle, the 92. 
Laurenburg 145. 
Lautenbach 201. 
Lauter, the 225. 235. 
Lauterbach, the 173. 
Lax, the 175. 



284 



INDEX. 



Lay 133. 
Leber, the 217. 
Leberau 217. 
Leberthal, the 217. 
Lebnien 133. 
Lehngericht, the Vordere 

and Hint ere 258. 
Leichlingen 40. 
Leimbach 67. 
Leiningen 233. 
Lei wen 129. 
Lek, the 11. 
Lemberg 223. 
Lemberg, the 113. 
Lenabere;, the 100. 
Lengfeld 169. 
Lenne, the 39. 
Lenzkirch 264. 
Leopolds-Canal, the 239. 
Leopoldshohe 246. 
Le Trooz 3. 
Leubsdorf 58. 
Leuk, the 123. 
Leutesdorf 60. 
Leyberg, the 56. 
Lichtenegg, ruin 239. 
Lichtenthal 197. 
Liebeneck 84. 
Liebenstein, chateau 85. 
Liebenzell 238. 
Liedberg 35. 
Liege 3. 
Liepvre 217. 
Liepvrette, the 217. 
Lierbach, the 255. 
Lieser 129. 
Lieser, the 138. 140. 
Limburg (Nassau) 146. 

— (Belgium) 4. 

— on the Lenne 39. 

— monastery 239. 
Limersheim 217. 
Lindenfels 173. 
Linderen 35. 
Linkenheim 184. 
Linn 32. 

Linz 57. 

Linzerhausen 57. 
Lippe, the 13. 
Littenweiler 244. 
Litzig 130. 
Locherberg 255. 
Lochnmhle (Ahr Vallev) 
66. 

Loffenau 236. 
Logelbach 219. 
Lohnberg 146. 
Lohrbacher Thai , the 
175. 

Lohrberg, the 52. 
Lohrsdorf 64. 
Longerich 32. 
Longvvich 129. 



Lontzen 4. 
Lorch 92. 
Lorchhausen 91. 
Lorsbacher Thai 161. 
Lorsch 171. 
Lorrach 266. 
Losenich 130. 
Lottelfels, the 208. 
St. Louis 222. 
Louisenthal 122. 
Lousberg, the 8. 
Louvain 2. 
Lowenburg, the 51. 
Ludwigshafen 225. 
Ludwigshohe , the 169. 

174. 
— , Villa 234. 
Luneville 213. 
Lurlei, the 88. 
Lutterbach 222. 
Luttich 3. 
Luttingen 273. 
Liitzelburg 212. 
Liitzelstein, the 212. 
Lutzerath 131. 
Luxemburg 127. 
Luzieberg, the 170. 



Maarsbergen 12. 
Maas, the 10. 
Machern 130. 
Madenburg, the 234. 
Magelbach, the 209. 
Mahlberg, castle 239. 
Mahlbergskopf , the 143. 
Maikammer 225. 234. 
Main, the 102. 148. 
Mainau, island 276. 
Mainz 101. 
Maizieres 120. 
Malancourt 120. 
Malberg 136. 
Malines 2. 
Mallendar 63. 
Malmaison 120. 
:.lalsch 193. 
Malschbach' 197. 
Mambach 265. 
Manderscheid 140. 
Mannheim 182. 
Mannweiler 98. 
Manternach 127. 
Manubach 92. 
Marainviller 213. 
Marbach 121. 
— , Abbey 220. 
St. Marcel 120. 
St. Margarethenkreuz 50. 
St. Margen 262. 
Ste. Marie - aux - Chenes 
120. 

Ste.Marie-aux-Mines 217. 



Marienberg (near Bop- 

pard) 84. 
Marienburg, ruin 108. 
Marienfels 56. 
Marienhausen 96. 
Marienhohe, the 169. 
Marienthal (Palatinate) 

113. 

— , monast. (Alsace) 222. 
— , ruin (Ahr Valley) 
66. 

— (Rheingau) 98. 

Markbrunnen, the 99. 

Markelfinsien 274. 

Markirch 217. 

Marksburg, castle 83. 

Mars-la-Tour 120. 

Marsfeld 59. 

Marten 37. 

Martinstein 115. 

Mastricht 3.^ 

Masure, Chateau de 3. 

Mattstall 236. 

Matzenheim 217. 

Maubach 9. 
| Maursinunster 209. 

Maus, ruin 86. 

Mauseberg, the 139. 

Maxau 193. 
|Maxburg, the 233. 
I Maximiliansau 193. 
I St. Maximin, Abbev 127. 

May en 71. 

Mayence 101. 
i Mayschoss 66. 
■ Mechernich 134. 

Meerfelder Maar, the 140. 

Mehlem 55. 109. 

Mehring 129. 

Meirother Kopf, the 72. 

Melibocus, the 170. 

Mennelstein, the 210. 

Menzenberg, the 52. 

Menzenschwand 268. 

Merckweiler 224. 

Mercuriusbere , the 199. 

Merl 131. 

Merode 9. 

Merten 41. 

Mertert 127. 

Merzig 122. 

Merzweiler 223. 

Mesenich 132. 

Mettenheim 228. 

Metternich 72. 

Mettlach 122. 

Metz 117. 

Metzeburg, the 41. 
Metzeral 216. 
Meurthe, the 121. 213. 
Meuse, the 3. 
iMichelstadt 170. 
Mielen 144. 



INDEX. 



285 



Miesenheim 71. 
Milspe 39. 
Minderberg, the 58. 
Minder-Lit gen 141. 
Mingolsheim 188. 
Minheini 129. 
Mittelbergheiin 210. 
Mittelburg, the 176. 
Mittelheim 98. 
Mittelthal 252. 
Mittelzell 274. 
Mittelhausen 174. 
Moerdyck 35. 
Molkencur, the 181. 
Molsheim 201. 
Mondorf 43. 
Monrepos 61. 
Monsheim 228. 
Montbeliard 222. 
Montclair 122. 
Montfort, ruin 113. 
Montigny-la-Grange 120. 
Montigny-les-Metz 120. 
Montjoie 9. 

Montois-la-Montagne 120. 
Montreux-Vieux 221. 
Montroyal 130. 
Monzingen 115. 
Mooswald, the 244. 
Mordnau, the 238. 
Moresnet 8. 

Morgenbachthal, the 92. 
Morlenbach 174. 
Mortier, Fort 245. 
Mosbach 100. 164. 
Moscou 120. 
Moselkern 132. 
Moselle, the 129. 217. &c. 
Moselweis 133. 
Mosenberg, the 140. 
Mossig, the 207. 
Moulins-les-Metz 119. 
Mouse Tower, the 93. 
Miiden 132. 
Muggenbrunn 261. 
Muggensturm 193. 
Miihlacker 199. 
Miihlbad (Boppard) 85. 
Miihlburg 193. 
Miihlhofen 62. 
Miihlingen 264. 
Miilhausen 221. 
Miilheim on the Rhine 15. 

— on the Moselle 129. 

— on the Ruhr 36. 
Miillenbach 132. 
Mullheim 245. 
Miimling 170. 
Miimlingthal, the 170. 
Mummelsee, the 253. 
Munchweiler 114. 230. 
Munoth 228. 
Munster am Stein 112. 



Munster (island of Rei- 
chenau) 274. 

— (Alsace) 220. 
Miinstereifel 134. 
Munstermaifeld 133. 
Munster thai, the (Vosges) 

216. 219. 

— (Black Forest) 272. 
Mxinz, the 235. 
Miinzenberg 42. 
Murbach 221. 

Murg 273. 

— , the 194. 250. &c. 
Murgthal, the 250. 
Miirlenbach 136. 
Musbach 229. 
Mussbach 233. 
Miistert 129. 
Mutterslehen 267. 
Mutterstadt 225. 229. 
Mutzig 208. 

Nackenheim 229. 
Nagold, the 238. 
Nahe, the 110. 
Nainedy 60. 
Nancy 121. 
Nassau 144. 
— , castle of 144. 
Nauheim 42. 169. 
Neckar, the 176. 182. 
Neckargemiind 182. 
Neckarshausen 172. 
Neckarsteinach 176. 
Neef 131. 
Neerwinden 2. 
Neidenfels, ruin 230. 
Neidingen 260. 
Nennig 122. • 
Neroberg, the 159. 
Nerothal 159. 
Nerother Kopf, the 138. 
Nessonvaux 3. 
Nette, the 62. 71. 
Netterhof, the 62. 71. 
Neu-Breisach 245. 
Neuburg, Stiff, 182. 
Neudorf 100. 165. 
Neu-Eberstein 199. 
Neuenahr 65. 
Neuenburg 246. 
Neuenbiirg 238. 
Neuendorf 64. 
Neuenfels 270. 
Neuenhain 162. 
Neuenheim 172. 
Neuenweg 265. 
Neuhaus (Black Forest) 

254. 
— , the 199. 
Neuhausen 274. 
Neuheimsbach 114. 
Neukastel 234. 



Neu-Katzenelnbogen 87. 
Neulussheim 184. 
Neumagen 129. 
Neumagen-Bach, the 272. 
Neumiihl (Eifel) 141. 

— (Alsace) 212. 

— (Black Forest) 272. 
Neunkirch 274. 
Neunkirchen (Nahe Val- 
ley) 116. 

— (Eifel) 138. 
Neu-Saarwerden 213. 
Neuss 32. 

Neustadt on the Haardt 
231. 

Neuweier 297. 
Neuwied 60. 
Neu-Windeck 201. 
Nickenich 71. 
Nideck 208. 
Nideggen 9. 
Niederberg 80. 
Niederbiber 61. 
Niederbreisig 59. 
Niederbronn 223. 
Niederburg (Alsace) 218. 

— (Riidesh.) 97. 
Niederdollendorf 51. 53. 

54. 

Niederehe 134. 
Nieder-Ernst 132. 
Niederfell 133. 
Niedergladbach 92. 
Niederhammerstein 59. 
Nieder-Haslach 208. 
Niederhausen 114. 
Niederheimbach 92. 
Nieder-Ingelheim 107. 
Nieder-Kestert 86. 
Niederlahnstein 81. 
Nieder-Liitzingen 73. 
Niedermending 70. 
Niedermiihle 286. 
Nieder-Otrott 209. 
Nieder-Ramstadt 169. 
Niederschlettenbach 236. 
Nieder-Schopfheim 238. 
Niederspay 84. 
Niederwald, the £5. 
iNiederwalluf 100. 
Niederweiler 269. 
Niederwerth, island 63. 
iNiederzissen 72. 
Niers, the 33. 
Nierstein 229. 
Nippes 59. 

Nirmer Tunnel, the 9. 
Nohner Miihle 134. 
Nollingen, castle 92. 
Nonnenbachthal, the 260. 
Nonnenwerth 55. 
Nonnenstromberg , the 
48. 



286 



INDEX. 



Nord-Canal, the 35. 
Nordrachthal . the 255. 

257. 
Xorheini 114. 
Xothberg 9. 
Xothhausen 61. 
Nothweiler 236. 
Notre Dame des Trois 

Epis 219. 
Xoveant 121. 
Niirburg, the 67. 
Nurnberger_Hof, the 100. 
Nussbach 259. 

Oberabsteinach 175. 
Oberachern 254. 
Oberbeuren 200. 
Oberbiber 62. 
Oberbollen 265. 
Obercassel (near Diissel- 
dorf) 35. 

— (near Bonn) 53. 54. 
Oberdiebach 92. 
Oberdollendorf 54. 
Oberehe 134. 
Ober-Ehnheim 208. 
Ober-Eniniel 123. 
Ober-Ernst 132. 
Oberfell 133. 
Oberhambach 233. 
Ober-Hammerstein 59. 
Oberhaslach 208. 
Oberhausen 13. 

— (Nahe Valley) 114. 
Oberheubronn 265. 271. 
Oberhollsteig 264. 
Oberkirch 201. 
Oberlahnstein 82. 
Oberlauchringen 274. 
Ober-Liitzingen 73. 
Obermossau 175. 

Ober - Miinsterthal . the 
272. 

Oberneisen 146. 
Obernhof 145. 
Ober-Otrott 210. 
Ober-Ramstadt 169. 
Ober-Reiffenberg 162. 
Oberried 261. 
Ober - Schonniattenwag 

175. 
Oberspay 84. 
Obersteigen 212. 
Oberstein 115. 
Obersteinbach 236. 
Obersulz 220. 
Oberthal 252. 
Obertsroth 251. 
Oberweiler 269. 
Oberwerth 81. 
Oberwesel 89. 
Oberwinter 56. 
Oberwolfach 256. 



Ober-Zissen 72. 
Ochsenstein 212. 
Ochtendung 72. 
Ockenfels 57. 
Odenwald, the 172. 
Oderen 217. 
Odilienberg. the 210. 
GEflinsen 268. 
CElbach. the 195. 
CElbers,' the Great 50. 
(Estrich 98. 
(Etringen 127. 
Ofenkanlenbere. the 50. 
Offenburg 238." 
0°aersheim 226. 
Ohligs 40. 

Ohligsberg, the 129. 
Olbriick, castle 72. 
Oos 194. 

Oosbach, the 195. 
Opladen 40. 
Oppenau 255. 
Oppenheim 229. 
Oranienstein 145. 
Orbev 215. 
Orscholz 122. 
Orschweier 239. 
Orschweiler 218. 
Ortenau, the 238. 
Ortenbere, castle 257. 
,Osterath 32. 
^stern 175. 
Osterspav 84. 
Ostheim"218. 
Osthofen 228. 
Ostwald 217. 
Ottenhofen 254. 
Ottersweier 200. 
St. Ottilien 243. 
Otzberg. the 174. 
Onrthe. the 3. 



Pagny 121. 
Pallien 126. 
Papenkaul, the. 135. 
Patersberg' 87. 
Pelm 135. 
Peltre 117. 
Pepinster 3. 129. 
Perche, the Haute and 

Basse 222. 
Perler Kopf. the 72. 
St. Peter 244. 
Petersau, the 101. 
Petersberg, the, near 

Coblenz 78. 
— , (Seven Mts.) 51. 
Peterskopf, the 232. 
Petersthal 255. 
Peterzell 259. 
Petrusbach, the 127. 
Pfaffendorf 81. 



Pfaffendorfer Hohe, the 
80. 

Pfaffenthal 128. 
Pfahlsraben, the 59. 
Pfalz, the 90. 
Pfalzburg 212. 
Pfalzel 129. 
Pfingstbach, the 73. 
Pforzheim 189. 238. 
Philippsburg 184. 223. 
Philippshalle 233. 
Philippsheim 13€. 
Pisport 129. 
Plaidt 71. 
Platte, the 160. 
Plattenhof, the 260. 
Plettenberg 39. 
Plittersdorf 54. 
Plixburg 220. 
Point du Jour 119. 
Polich 129. 
Poltersdorf 132. 
Pont-a-Mousson 121. 
Poppelsdorf 46. 
Poutrove. la 215. 
Prag 267. 

Pragbach, the 265. 
Prechthal, the 260. 
Preuschdorf 224. 
Prinzenhof 33. 
St. Privat 120. 
Priim 135. 
Pulverhahn, the 52. 
Pulvermaar, the 139. 
Pulverthal, the 127. 
Piinderich 130. 
Piitzchen 54. 
Pyrmont, ruin 133. 

Queich, the 225. 
St. Quentin, Fort^li9. 
Queuleu, Fort 117. 
Quint, the 129. 

Rabenlei, the 54. 
Rachtig 130. 
Radolphszell 274. 
Rambach 158. 
Ramersdorf 54. 
Ramstein 136. 217. 230. 
Randeck, ruin 114. 
Roppoltsweiler 218. 
Rasselstein 61. 
Rastatt 193. 
Rathsamhausen 209. 
Rauenthal 165. 
Rauhmiinzach, the 251. 
Raunheim 155. 
Rauschemiihle, the 71. 
Ravenna-Schlucht the 

262. 
Rech 66. 
Rechicourt 213, 



INDEX. 



287 



Rehberg, the 235. 
Reichartshausen 99. 
Reichelsheiin 175. 
Reichenau 274. 
— , island 274. 
Reichenbach (Black For- 
est) 238. 252, 257. 

— (Odenwald) 173. 
Reichenberer.ruin (Rhine) 

87. 

— (Odenwald) 175. 
Reichenstein, ruin 

(Rhine) 92. 
Reichenthal 251. 
Reichenweier 214. 
Reichbusch, the 9. 
Reichshofen 223. 
Reifenberg, ruin 62. 
Reil 130. 
Reimerzhofen 66. 
Reinerzau, the 258. 
Reinhardsmtmster 212. 
Reinhartshausen 99. 
Reinheim 169. 
Reinig 127. 
Reinsport 129. 
Reisberg, the 215. 
Reissen 174. 
Remagen 56. 
Remilly 117. 
Rench, the 255. 
Renchen 201. 
Renchthal, the 201. 
Renneberg, the 58. 63. 
Reuschenberg 15. 
Rezonville 130. 
Rheinau, island 99. 
Rheinbollen 91. 
Rheinbreitbach 52. 
Rheinbrohl 59. 
Rheindiebach 164. 
Rheineck 59. 
Rheinfelden 273. 
Rheinfels 87. 
Rheingau, the 97. 
Rheingrafenstein 112. 
Rheinhausen 33. 
Rheinhutte, the 164. 
Rheinstein 93. 
Rheinweiler 246. 
Rhense 83. 
Rhevdt 35. 
Rhine, the Old 11. 
— , Falls of the 274. 
Rhine-Marne-Canal 121. 

211. 212. 
Rhine-Rhone-Canal, the 

221. 
Rhodt 234. 
Rhondorf 52. 
Ribeauville 218. 
Richterich 34. 
Rickelshausen 274. 



Ried 72. 
Riegel 239. 
Riehen 249. 266. 
Riesensaule, the 173. 
Rietburg, the 234. 
Rilchingen 224. 
Rimbach 174. 
Rimburg 35. 
Rimmerich, the 138. 
Rinken, auf dem 262. 
Rinnthal 235. 
Riol 129. 
Rippoldsau 256, 
Rippurg, the 234. 
Rittershausen 40. 
Rixheim 222. 
Rixingen 213. 
Rochuscapelle, the 94. 
Rockenhausen 114. 
Rockeskyll 137. 
Rodeck 254. 
Rodenstein, ruin 175. 
Roderberg, the 56. 
Roer, the 9. 
Rohmatt 265. 
Rohrbach 223. 225. 
Rohrich 232. 
Rolandseck 55. 
Rolandswerth 55. 
Rolduc 34. 
Romansweiler 209. 
Romersberg, the 139. 
Rommersdorf, abbey 63. 
Roncourt 120. 
Ronheide 8. 
Roodt 127. 
Rosenau, Mt. 48. 
Rosenburg, the 47. 
Rosengarten 169. 228. 
Rosheim 208. 
Rosieres-aux-Salines 213. 
Rossbuhl, the 255. 
Rossel, the 96. 
Rossert, the 161. 
Rosskopf, the 243. 
Rossstein, the 88. 
Roth 135. 

Rothekreuzkopf, the 167. 
Rothenbach 238. 
Rothenfels,the(Nahe)113. 
— (Black Forest) 193. 
Rothwiese, the 265. 
Rotteln, Schloss 266. 
Rotterdam 10. 
Rottlerweiler 266. 
Rozerieulles 119. 
Riibenach 72. 
Riidesheim 97. 
Ruffach 220. 
Ruhr, the 36. 
Ruhrort 35. 
Ruhstein, the 252. 
Rumbach 236. 



Riingsdorf 54. 
Runkel 146. 
Ruppertsberg 229. 
Russelsheim 155. 
'Ruwer 129. 

— the 129. 

;Saalburg, the 163. 
'Saar, the 116. 122, 213. 
jSaarbriicken 117. 
iSaarburg (Lorraine) 213. 

— (Prussia) 123. 
Saargemiind 223. 
Saarlouis 122. 
Saarwerden 213. 
Sachsenhausen 151. 
Sackenheimer Hof 72. 
Sackingen 273. 

S ffenburg, the 66. 
Saffig 71. 

Sahler Foundry, the 91, 
Salmbach, the 129. 
Salzbach, the 157. 
Salzig 86. 
Sandau, island 99. 
Saresdorf 135. 
Sams tall 235. 
Sarrebourg 213. 
Sarreguemines 223. 
Sasbach 201. 
Sasbachwalden 201. 
Satzvey 134. 
Sauerburg, castle 92. 
Sauer, the 92. 127. 224, 
Sauersberg, the 197. 
Saverne, see Zabern. 
Savoureuse. the 221. 
Saxler 139. 
Sayn 62. 
Schaden, the 41. 
Schaerbeek 2. 
Schafberg, the 199. 
Schafershof 212. 
Schaffhausen 274. 
Schaidt 335. 
Schalkenmehren 139. 
Schallerberg, the 52. 
Schallstadt 245. 
Schapbach 256. 
Scharfeneck, ruin 225. 
Scharfenstein (Nassau) 
100. 165. 

— (Black Forest) 272. 
Scharlachkopf, the 95. 
Scharteberg, the 137. 
Scharzhof 123. 
Schauenburg, ruin 201. 
Schau ins Land, the 243. 
Schaumburg. on the Lahn 

145. 

Schehlingen 244. , 
Scheid 145. 
Scheiderwald, the 73. 



288 



INDEX. 



Schelzberg 201. 
Schenkenzell 258. 
Scherweiler Schloss, the 

217. 
Scheuern 56. 
Schierstein 100. 
Schifferstadt 225. 229. 
Schiltach 258. 
Schladern 41. 
Schlaferskopf, the 160. 
Schlangenbad 165. 
Schlebusch 40. 
Schlechtnau 265. 
Schleich 129. 
Schlettstadt 217. 
Schliengen 246. 
Schlierbach 174. 
Schlierberg, the 243. 
Schluchsee, the 264. 
Schlucht, the 215. 
Schmalbach 251. 
Schmalenstein 188. 
Schmidtheim 134. 
Schneeherg, the 208. 
Schneidhain 161. 
Schneifel, the 137. 
Schnierlach-Thal,the215. 
Schonach 260. 
Schonachthal, the 258. 
Schonau (Odenwald) 175. 

— (Palatinate) 236. 

— (Wiesenthal) 265. 
Schonberg (Black Forest) 

257. 

— (Hessen) 173. 
— , the 243. 
Schonbornslust 79. 
Schonburs;, ruin (Rhine) 

89. 

Schoneberg 272. 
Schonenbuchen 265. 
Schonengrund 252. 
Schonmunzach 252. 
Schonstatt 63. 
Schonstein 41. 
Schonwald 260. 
Schopfheim 266. 
Schramberg 258. 
Schriesheim 172. 
Schuld 67. 

Schutterthal, the 257. 
Schutzalf 139. 
Schwabenschanze , the 
255. 

Schwalbach 166. 
Schwanheim 155. 
Schwarzbach,the 161.252. 
Schwarz-Rheindorf 43. 
Schwarzenberg 252. 
Schwarzenborn 141. 
Schwarzhalde, the 264. 
Schwedenschanze, the 
255. 



Schweich 129. 
Schweighof 270. 
Schweizerthal, the 88. 
Schwelm 40. 
Schweppenhausen 91. 
Schweppenburg, the 69. 
Schwetzingen 184. 
St. Sebastian 63. 
Sechtem 110. 
Seebach 253. 
— , the 253. 263. 
Seebruck 264. 
Seebuck, the 262. 
Seeheim 169. 
Seelach, the 197. 
Segendorf 61. 
Sehringen 270. 
Seidenbuch 174. 
Selighof, the 198. 
Sembach 114. 
Senhals 132. 
Sennheim 222. 
Sentheim 222. 
Sesenheim 223. 
Seven Mountains, the 48. 
Seven Virgins, the 88. 
Siebensebirge, see Seven 
Mts. 

Siedelsbrunn 175. 
Sieg, the 39. 41. 
Siegburg 41. 
Siegen 39. 
Sierentz 222. 
Sigolsheim 219. 
Simonswald 260. 
Singen 260. 274. 
Sinn 41. 
Sinzheim 200. 
Sinzig 109. 
Sire, the 127. 
Sirnitz 271. 
Sobernheim 115. 
Soden 162. 
Soersthal, the 8. 
Solingen 40. 
Sommerau 259. 
Sonnenberg, ruin 158. 
Sooneck 92. 
Sophienruhe 256. 270. 
Soultz sous Forets 224. 
Spa 127. 
Sparsbrod 212. 
Speicher 136. 
Spesburg 210. 
Speyer 184. 
Speyerbach, the 230. 
Spichern 117. 
Spiech 40. 
Spielweg, am 272. 
Spires 184. 
Sponeck, ruin 245. 
Sponheim 114. 
iSporkenburg, the 143. 



Sprink 139. 
Stadtkyll 134. 
Stahlberg, castle 91. 
Stahleck, castle 91. 
Stammheim 15. 
Starkenburg, the (Hes- 
sen) 171. 
— (Moselle) 130. 
Staudernheim 115. 
Staufen 272. 
Staufenberg 199. 238. 
Staufenburg, the 272. 
Stauffen, the Great 199. 
— , the Little 199. 
Stavelot 129. 
Steeg 91. 
Steele 37. 
Stefflen 113. 
Steigerkopf, the 234. 
Stein, Burg (Nassau) 144. 
Steinach 257. 
— , the 175. 267. 
Steinbach 200. 
Steinberg, the 99. 
Steinborn 138. 
Stein-Callenfels 115. 
Stenzelberg, the 52. 
Sterkrade 13. 
Sternenburg, the 133. 
Sternerhutte, the 58. 
Sterrenburg 85. 
Stetten 266. 
Stiring 117. 
Stockhausen 146. 
Stolberg 9. 
Stolzenfels 81. 
Stosswier 216. 220. 
Strahlenburg, the 172. 
Strassburg 201. 
Strohn 139. 
Stromberg 91. 
Strotzbiisch 131. 
Stuben, monast. 132. 
Suggenthal 261. 
Sultz 220. 
Sulzeren 216. 
Sultzer Belchen, the 222. 
Sulz unter demWalde224. 
Sulzbach 116. 201. 
— , the 165. 228. 
Sulzburg 245. 
Sulzmatt 220. 
Sundgau, the 221 
Sure, the 127. 
Swiss Valley, the 88. 

Tannenfels 252. 
Tannenkirch 214. 
Taunus, the 160. 
Teinach 238. 
Tempelhof, the 133. 
Ter Gouw 11. 
Teufelsberg, the 225. 



INDEX. 



289 



Teufelshaus, the 60. 
Teufelskanzel , the 67. 
199. 

Teufelsmiihle, the 237. 
Teufelsstein, the 232. 
Thann 222. 
Thayingen 274. 
Thennenbronn 259. 
Theodorshalle 112. 
Thienen 2. 
Thiengen 274. 
Thiergarten (near Cleve) 
34. 

Thionville 120. 

St. Thomas, monast. 136. 

Thornich 129. 

Thur, the 216. 

Thurant, ruin 133. 

Thurmberg, the 189. 

Thurnberg, ruin 86. 

Tiefenbach 224. 

Tiefenhausern 268. 

Tiefenstein 269. 

Tiefenthal 165. 

Tirlemont 2. 

Titisee. the 264. 

Todtmoos 267. 

Todtmoos-Au 267. 

Todtnau 265. 

Todtnauberg 265. 

Tomberg, ruin 65. 

Tonnisstein, Bad 69. 

Traben 130. 

Trarbach 130. 

Trautzberg 131. 

Trechtingshausen 92. 
Treis 132. 
Treves 123. 
Triberg 258. 
Trifels 235. 
Trimborn 8. 
Trips, chateau 35. 
Trittenheim 129. 
Troisdorf 40. 
Trois Vierges 129. 
Trois Epis 219. 
St. Trond 3. 
St. Trudpert 272. 
Truttenhausen 210. 
Trutzbingen 110. 
Trutz-Eltz 132. 
Tryberg s. Triberg. 
Tschiflik 231. 
Tiillinger Hohe, the 266. 
Tuni-Berg, the 244. 
Tiirkheim 219. 
Tiirkismuhle 116. 



St. Ulrich 218. 
Unkel 53. 56. 
Unter-Aha 264. 
Unter-Beuren 197. 
Unter-Grombach 188. 
Unterlinden 218. 
Unter-Reidelbach 173. 
Unter-Schonmattenwag 
175. 

Untersee, the 274. 



Unterwasserthal, the 254. Wald 40. 



Wachenheim 233. 
; Wachtenburg, the 233. 
iWadenheim 65. 
iWagenberg, the 174. 
jWagensteigthal, the 262. 
Waghausel 184. 
Wahlenburg 220. 
Wahn 40. 
Walbach 220. 
Walburg 224. 



Uedersdorf 140. 
TJerdingen 35. 
Uerzig 130. 
Uesbach, the 131. 
Uffgau, the 238. 

B^deker s Rhine. 



Urbar 64. 
Urbeis 215. 
Urft, the 134. 
Urmatt 208. 
Urmitz 62. 
Urnagold 252. 
Utrecht 11. 
Utzenfeld 265. 273. 

Val Benoit , Pont du 3 
Val de Ville 211. 213. 
Vallendar 63. 
Valwig 132. 
Vanzelle 217. 
Varangeville St. Nicolas 
213. 

Vaudrefange 122. 
Vecht, the 11. 
IVeenendaal 12. 
IVeitskopf, the 69. 
|Velp 12. 
IVeluwe, the 12. 
(Vendenheim 211. 222. 
jVenlo 35. 
iVerneville 119. 
Verviers 4. 
Vesdre, the 3. 
Vettweiss 134. 
Vezouse, the 213. 
Victoriaberg, the 57. 
Vieille-Montagne 3. 8. 
Vielsalm 129. 
Viersen 35. 
Ville 211. 
Villingen 211. 
Villmar 146. 
Vionville 120. 
Virneberg 53. 
Virneburg 67. 
Vogisheim 269. 
Vogtsburg 244. 
Vbhrenbach 260, 
Vohwinkel 40. 
Volklingen 122. 
Vollraths 99. 
Volmarstein 38. 
Volme, the 39. 
Vorbriick 210. 



Waldau 262. 
Waldbbckelheim 114. 
Waldbroel 41. 
Waldkirch 261. 
Waldmichelbach 174. 
Waldsberg 210. 
Waldshut 274. 
Wallerfangen 122. 
Wallersheim 64. 
Wallhausen 116. 
Wallmersheim 234. 
Walporzheim 66. 
Wambach 166. 
Wangenburg 209. 
Waremme 3. 
Wartenstein , castle 115. 
Wartesberg, the 139. 
.Wasenburg, the 223. 
iWasgau, the 231. 
iWasgenstein, the 236. 
iWasselnheim 207. 
iWassenach 69. 
iWasserbillig 127. 
Waterloo 2. 
iWeberlei. the 140. 
,Wecker 127. 
'^\ T eeze 33. 
jwegelburg, the 236. 
iWeghubler Kopf, the 59. 
jWehr 267. 
jWehra, the 267. 
iWehrbiisch, the 138. 
j Weier im Thai 220. 
I Weil 266. 
Weilbach 156. 
,Weilburg 146. 
jWeiler 211. 222. 
Weilerthal 211. 213. 
jWeinbaeh 265. 
jWeinfelder Maar, 
I 139. 

jWeingarten 188. 
iWeinheim 171. 
I Weiss, the 214. 215. 
iWeissenau 102. 229. 
I Weissenbach 251. 
|Weissenburg 224. 
Weissenthurm 62. 



the 



Vorder-Langenbach 253.IWeiten 122. 
iVorder Todtmoos 267. jWeitersburg 63. 

Vormthal 258. Weiterstadt 169. 

Vosges, the 207. 211. 213.;Weitersweiler 114. 
5th Edit. 19 



290 



INDEX. 



Wekmund 220. 
Welkenhausen 4. 
Weimich 86. 
Welschbrueh 210. 
Weisehenennest 39. 
St. Wendei 116. 
Werdohl 39. 
Wernefseck, ruin 72. 
Werrach 267. 
Werth 9. 

Weschnitz, the 171. 174. 
Wesel 13. 
Wesserlins 2x7. 
Westrich, %e 230. 
Wetter 38. 
Wetzlar 41. 
Weyersbach 140. 
Wichelshof. the 43. 
Wickrath 35. 
Wiebelsbaeh 169. 
Wiebelskircken 116. 
Wiedbach. the 60. 
Wieden 273. 
Wiedenereck, the 272. 
Wiesbaden 156. 
Wiesenthal 184. 
Wiesenthal, the 265. 
Wiesloch 188. 
Wilblingen 223. 
Wilchingen 274. 
WildbatfT 237. 
Wildenburg, the 116. 
WiMenistein 916. 
Wilaschapbachthal, the 

Wildsee. the 23S. 256. 
Wilhelmsfelsen. the 166. 



[St. Wilhelmsthal, the 
; 261. 263. 
Willsartswiesen 235" 
Wilseck 136. 
Wiltingen 123. 
Windeck (Sieg Yalley)41. 
— (Ber^strasse) 171. 
— , Alt 200. 
— , ls T eu 200. 
Winden 193. 225. 
Windesheini 91. 
Winkel 98. 
Winneburg, the 132. 
Winningen 133. 
Winnweiler 114. 
Wmterbers. the 143. 
Wintrich 129. 
Winzingen, ruin 231. 
Wisneck 262. 
Wisperthal, the 92. 
Wissen 41. ' 
Wittelsheim 221. 
Witten 38. 
Wittlich 141. 
Wolf 130. 
Wolfach '258. 
Wolfbach, the 256. 
Wolfhezen 12. 
Wolfsbrunnen. the 181. 
Wolfsburs. ruin 30. 
Wolf thai," the 256. 
Wolkenburs. the 50. 
Worms 236. 
Worrinsen 32. 
Worth, the 138. 
Worth 193. 224. 
— , chateau 274. 



Wupper, the 15. 40. 
Wurgersdorf 41. 
Wurm, the 34. 
Wutach. the 274. 
Wyhlen 273. 

Xanten 34. 

Yburg, castle 197. 
Yssel, the 11. 

Zabern 211. 
Zahlbach 105. 
Zahringen 239. 
Zarten 261. 

Zastlerthal, the 261. 263. 
Zavelstein 238. 
Zeist 12. 

Zell (Moselle) 131. 

— (Kinzigthal) 257. 

— (Wiesenthal) 265. 
Zellenberg 214. 
Zeller Blauen, the 266. 
Zeltingen 130. 
Zevenaar 12. 
Zicklenburg 52. 
Zieselhausen 182. 
Zillisheim 221. 
Zollhaus 146. 

Zons 32. 
Zorn. the 211. 
Ztilpich 134. 
Zweibriicken 231. 
Zweibriiggen 35. 
Zweribach. the 260. 
Zwickgabel 252. 
Zwingenberg 170. 



Leipsic : Printed by Breitkopf and Hartel. 



